I want to do that. I figure Patrick Stewart is the hardest one to get. All of the others seem to do a fair amount of conventions.

Just amazing.

Thank you Etien so much for your great support!

OK, ok....OK... it's not Pinball related, however it IS Star Trek related. The new Picard Season 2 Teaser with Q dropped today.
Just promoting the Star Trek excitement..

Hype!!!!!

Indeed, "Make It So!""

Extreme Pinball Mods
Star Trek The Next Generation Pinball Synced Dual Menu Screens 3.0

I have been getting questions concerning the content of the menu screens, on the Star Trek Next Generation pinball. This is close to the final version, with the screens synchronized and many other improvements. Here is the LEFT and RIGHT screens as they appear in the bottom corners of the machine.

Very nice, reminds me of the Amiga demo days. Imagine that on lsd

Picard is one of the worst shows I've ever seen. Discovery is an abomination as well.

I've been watching through STTNG again slowly. Season 1 is ....... not easy to watch.

Wait until Riker grows the beard! It gets good in season 3 if I remember correctly.

If you like Star Trek and like Rick and Morty, I would highly recommend the "Lower Decks" show on Paramount Plus. Its an animated Star Trek comedy and if you are already a Star trek Nerd its great.

Also, if you are fans of STTNG and also liked Family Guy I'd recommend "The Orville" on Fox. Apparantly Seth McFarland tried to do a Star Trek spinoff but was rebuffed, so he did his own Star Trek knockoff. It is the closest thing to a spiritual successor to ST:TNG I have ever seen.

Also, if you are only going to watch one, watch "Star Trek, First Contact". It is a great stand alone movie and all the introduction you need ot enjoy ST:TNG.

My wife is a huge Star Trek Nerd and we have been slowly going through... all ... Star Trek.

Even the 70's cartoon? Ouch.

-Hans

We are not there yet, but we are getting to it. We have watched every episode of every Star Trek series except the last season of Discovery (Start Tonight), the 2nd and 3rd season of TOS, and the animated series. We have been slowly watching it over our entire marriage.

As of today there are 797 episodes of Star Trek in various forms... plus the movies.

Hello club members.

New member here.. my kid has wanted this game to join our line up for a LONG time..

Anyway, had a question with regard to the extra ball in the shuttle sim. Originally, we were collecting this every game (once) on the first use of the shuttle sim... and subsequently, the same path will have 10m.

Recently however, this is now never there and only the 10m.

I read something about it perhaps not being available after it had been collected so many times.

I am wondering what criteria determines this, and if it is possible to adjust this so that it might appear once per player 100% of the time?

Thank you-

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I just joined the club myself. Trying to revive a neglected game (it will clean up) and just got the MPU rebuilt and installed NVRAM. I was looking at the A-16100 8-driver PCB and would like to confirm the wire jumpers on it since one looks like a wire was added later. There is a jumper in PW1 and there is a wire jumper to set SW4. Is that the correct setting for this game? If so I have some 0 ohm resistors and will clean up that jumper.

The game continually shoots out balls and if you start a game they never drain. The optos in the trough are a mess. Will probably replace the boards and fix the old ones as a backup. Also noticed F103 is blown.

Hoping to get this sorted out (and at least rebuild my old optos) so I can play it this weekend.

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IMPORTANT my new STTNG Pin friend. Research and DO (several of them) the TIE BACK Mod. It sounds like there be something already done, but DONT leave it to chance. Why. Because you will continue to burn up and blow the components on that very board until you do. Just do a search and there are info. After blowing up a board, I took the advice seriously. Also you will save some subway coils in the process too.

Welcome to your first RESTORATION improvement

looking closely at the picture - the Transistor at q12 is broken and one at the back cracked - see the cracked black material - these 100% need replacing..
I think you need to check all of the transistors to make sure no others are dead - use a multimeter - loads of how to's available.

I saw that Q12 and the jumper and that is what prompted me to pull out this board. After washing the board all the transistors look fine. Tested them and Q15 is shorted. Will replace that later today. Before putting it back in I need to lookup what it controlled. Also will look into TIE back mod that Eric_Manuel mentioned.

Would still like to confirm the SW4 / PW3 jumper setting.

The opto boards for the trough are pretty scary. At least the one closest to the front of the game is. Will probably replace them (any preferred replacements?) but I should have parts for a temporary repair on that.

Appreciate the tips! I’ve had to repair many of the boards used in this game for others but this is the first time I’ve had the full game and one of my own. Really excited to get this running. Also finally gives me a good way to test DCS sound boards after repairs. I could do those and check most in the bench but nice to run in an actual machine to verify.

Yeah - honestly I am also just starting my STTNG journey - I restored a TZ, a Gottlieb and a couple of Data easts.. I will be checking and doing the Tie-back mod ASAP.
Yeah - the trough boards, I also have new ones to fit - I am in Europe so bought from a Dutch company - Pindora box. I have used their parts before and all works well.

I if 1 transistor is bad - my experience is that it isn’t the only one… perhaps whilst you have it out and if your skills are there - swap them all?

I have no idea regards the jumper setting - perhaps a photo will help? I will take on from my machine
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The photo helps but also makes me more concerned about my board. Your jumpers are set to SW2 and SW4. Mine is set to PW1 and rejumpered to SW4. I’m guessing this was probably replaced before and came out of some other game. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm for sure they should both be set like your board. Problems with these games is that so many parts and boards got swapped around I can’t make any assumptions that any of it is correct until I check it all. A lot just got parts tossed in enough to make them work enough to play. I want to make this one right.

There shouldn’t be a need to replace any of the other transistors other than the one that failed. Will check the associated diode and pre driver transistor. I have all those parts on hand and the proper equipment to swap them. Been doing board work for years and often have to fix the aftermath of others “attempted” repairs and end up replacing pads and building new traces. At least this board isn’t burned up.

Thanks for the tip about the TIE back mod. The nice thing on these older machines is that most of the weak points are known and once addressed are solid.

Just learning all the specifics on this particular machine. It has some boards like this one that I don’t have in any of my other games. Most of the boards I’m very familiar with so it’s just the incremental part for the additional boards and things to watch out for on this title.

So far I’ve only had a chance to rebuild and cleanup the MPU. Did install NVRAM in a socket but could go back to a coin cell and regular SRAM if this game uses the time. Wasn’t sure yet if it did since I though only a couple like TZ used it.

Screenshot from the manual - according to this you need a resistor between - W4, SW2, SW4, SW6.. That is exactly what mine has - perhaps another user could make a photo? Can you take a top-down photo so we can see all of the red cable etc?
You are right -if it was on location, the chances of it being swapped from another machine is high...

Also - text from the WIKI - "Jumpers to be installed for Demolition Man and Roadshow should be...

PW1, PW3, PW5
Jumpers to be installed for Twilight Zone, Star Trek: The Next Generation, and Indiana Jones should be...

SW2, SW4, SW6
Indiana Jones, Star Trek: The Next Generation and Twilight Zone use Q12 via the J5-1 connection to add this column"

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Awesome! I missed that part in the manual. Either a jumper or 0 ohm resistor will work. I have a bunch of the 0 ohm resistors on hand so will use those to match what should be on the board.

From that page in the manual it looks like two of my jumpers are incorrect. I also need to move PW5 to SW6.

Over lunch I'll fix the jumpers, replace the bad TIP102, and do that resistor pack mod so the board will be set. Will need to do the tie back mod and check the coil the bad transistor was driving before putting this back in.

Great! Yep - probably a swap from one of the other 3 machines...

If they are originals I always recommend repairing them vs replacing them.

You can set the precentage of extra balls given in the settings A2 Feature Adjustments 02. If you start consistently getting extra balls from some of the other modes in the game you'll find that the extra ball won't be available in the shuttle sim.

Hmm.. ok thank you. It does almost seem like the percentage carries over game-to-game as well? My thought is that perhaps the previous owner never collected many extra balls.. so perhaps the game felt like so many were due? It's really odd as we were collecting this once per player per game.. no problem.. and then all of a sudden, that was it. now it is only sometimes... and not with other modes.. we are just locking and drainign to test the shuttle sim, and the EB is infrequent now.

Ahh, ok thank you.. just wanted to confirm that was the case. My son and I were confused because we were able to milk this for extra balls for so long.. and then like a switch, it was not there! lol.

Makes sense as I had someone launch the probe and get extra balls twice in a row as well. maybe the same kind of thing.

And no other adjustments other than the percentil chance (I think it went to 35% iirc), or just turning off extra balls.. that's it.

Hello, wondering if anyone has insight on the opto concern of mine.

Basically, while servicing the subway, I found that when installing this bracket, the opto sensors do not line up with the holes in the plastic.

There does not seem to be a way, although it appear adjustable, the metal track does not have enough play due to the other sections and paths.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Uup63XMCovPaMpiGA

Sorry, not sure specifically which part, it is the brass coloured bracket.

Mostly wondering if this is common, if I am missing something?

Thanks-

So...we last left the story of my STTNG, it was struggling with 5 switches all on the same switch matrix not responding, and then I lost the ability to use the control/settings buttons in the coin door. I removed the board with U20 switch driver chip to have it checked by a tech. The tech said this board and the others should be re-pinned. I decided to install a spare coin door I had on hand with control buttons to see if that fixed the control button issue. I also put the original board back in (without re-pinning anything) and now everything works 100%. No credit dot. All switches returned and the coin door buttons work perfectly. So what happened?

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It’s possible that removing and reseating the cables did the trick. One of more of them might not have been making a good connection or could have a short somewhere.

I agree. It could have been a connection or possibly a broken ground wire somewhere near the coin door? I’m glad it’s working again. I’m finally getting good enough at the video mode to collect the crystals in the 9th cave. This is a great pin.

Having taken 5 months to restore my STTNG, there is a lot to do to make your machine "solid". As a suggestion, it's a good idea to label all your connections, both on the motherboards, and the connectors themselves. I would pull each board out, and reflow the solder on all the connections on the boards. Over time you've get broken or cold solder joints. It's also a great time to inspect each connector for heat damage. It's impossible for there not to be any on these machines.

As you carefully go from board to board, you'll also be reseat the connectors, which is a good thing. I would also replace (or at the very least) verify you have the proper fuses for each location. It's crazy what some people do. As you get to the power board, look for damage around the bottom left of the board where the power connections are. Also along the bottom row too.

As mentioned before, Williams designed these machines with 16 sets of OPTOS. There is an Opto Board with possible heat damage located under the playfield, on the left middle. As you also work your way through the machine, you'll likely want to just replace the 27 year old ones, with all new ones.

There is a redesign on the transmitter and receiver boards for the ball trough. If you've had somebody hack your board with a soldering iron, you should replace the set. This machine can be a pain tracking down a "missing ball" issue, all based of the operation of the optos.

If it hasn't been done already, get the old bulbs OUT immediately. Leds generate heat and suck power, both are not good.

I often say, DON'T worry about modding yet, get the machine technically solid.
Enjoy the restoration.....I am STILL working on mine.
If you really want a deep dive, go back to page ONE of this Blog, and go through each page

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So I had a chance to dig into my project game and it is going to be a much longer road to travel before it will be playable. Numerous wiring hacks to sort out. Biggest surprise was the flippers. The upper right flipper is dead and noticed someone had removed the fliptronics II boards and replaced them with standard leaf contacts like my old Bkackout. I’ll have to reterminate the wires there but now I need to track down a pair of those fliptronics boards for the flipper buttons along with all the hardware that goes with them. The flipper board is still in the head and not sure yet if that was bypassed soon.

Seems to have been a common thing back in the day for ops to use flipper leaf switches as replacements for flipper opto boards. The leaf switches will still use the fliptronics board in the backbox to activate the flipper coils. To swap the leaf switches out, you'll need the flipper opto boards plus the flipper actuators (that the flipper button presses to open or block the opto signal) and possibly the IDC connectors (unless they have been left in the cabinet) to connect the flipper wires to the header on the new flipper opto boards.

Thank you for your advice, I take note. But keep in mind that this custom playfield is just an evolving prototype that I keep trying to improve by taking into account the observations of fans of this pinball machine around the world. Do not hesitate to make comments, whatever they are, they allow me to move forward.

As it stands, and it's far from over, hundreds of people really appreciate what I'm doing on this project, and some people don't like it.

Anyway, thank you for your comments even if you don't like it.

can you develop it please, for my culture and any modifications.

I'm not a trekkie at all, and I'm still learning a lot about this series.

thank you in advance

As this comment makes me happy, I discover it today, and figure you that I am currently in the process of transforming this part exactly in the graphic spirit that you described.

Bravo, for this vision of my future playfield which reassures me in my choices.

Do not hesitate in the future to intervene and direct me.

To all those who are directly or indirectly interested in this revisiting project of this cult pinball machine, you can follow its evolution on my WIP Facebook page and leave your comments there to help me. thank you in advance friends

https://www.facebook.com/xingothx

PPS has a decent price on these ($29.95) but unfortunately they are currently out of stock.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-17316

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This can be pieced together though as they have all the parts and its a couple bucks cheaper:
Board ($19.00): http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PC-15894&Category_Code=PCF
Opto Interrupter ($2.99): http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9001-1
Interrupter Spring ($4.95): http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-143481

The only mounting for this assembly is three wood screws.

Thanks for all the responses as I am still learning about this particular title. So are the boards for the flipper buttons the same one for fliptronics I and II? It looks like Pinball life has the whole kits (as well as the drop assembly that I need) so that may work. Just wasn't sure yet if those were the same.

Can't wait to actually play this but I have a lot of work to do. Pulled the rest of the boards and going over the driver now. Have one eddy board to fix. It detected the ball but no output.

After seeing all the things that were done and wires cut/spliced I am amazed that it ever actually worked! This one will be an adventure for sure.

Its not that I don't like it. just offering constructive suggestions.
*I* wouldn't change my machine... but they again I'm a fan of the original art package.

https://www.amazon.com/Star-Trek-Generation-Metal-Communicator/dp/B005ZMAZHG/

Have a link? I did not see these available on PinballLife.

Don't be concerned with assembling this, all you do is set the spring on the plastic interrupter then snap the board onto it and call it done.

This is the link:

https://www.pinballlife.com/fliptronics-1-flipper-opto-board-set.html

just not sure if this will also work on this game. If not does anyone have a source for the correct one?

The ends were cut but I have the correct ends and can crimp on new pins. More concerned with getting all the correct replacement parts. Lots of weird things and wiring throughout the game I need to fix but will make it right. I'm sure I'll be asking on this thread for lots of reference photos as I go!

All great advice. I already rebuilt my opto board for the trough and have that working. Pulled the rest of the boards and am going over them now. I prefer rebuilt original boards over aftermarket for most. Been doing board work for years and spent many hours undoing and correcting other people’s hacks to boards. Have done several boards for Star Trek for others but now get the fun of the game itself.

The 16 opto board is one of the few that looks good as it is. The rest need work,

Several of us on here are on the "EXTREME" side of rebuilding / restoring / enhancing the STTNG to a particular vision. Granted, some are on here for repair advice, some are on here to see what mods people are doing, and some are on here to learn. It's all good. Never will I say something negative about the work someone is putting into there machine. And POSITIVE suggestions further the passion someone have for the work involved.
There are hundreds of things much easier to do, than spend months repairing a 30 year old pinball machine.
However most of us ENJOY the journey.....I do anyway.

And looking at the interesting things others are doing only inspires me more!!

Thanks for the link, I did see those on PinballLife but they are not the correct part; I already linked you everything you need to replace the filpper opto assembly with the proper parts. Remember, you will need to order two of everything if replacing both of them. This part should line up perfectly with the three original mounting holes in the cabinet.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/117#post-6344343

If you prefer you can substitute the $19 Control board in the original link for the $25 one that has 5-pin optos and is linked below.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-202071

Thanks for sharing Eric, the Cannon Oscillating Red LED disc's have been a great seller for me...and a few folks like the engine discs too,, I do have clockwise and counter clockwise rotations available if wanted, please just ask.

Enjoy, and thank you everyone..

Mick

https://www.mickspinball.com/circular-red-oscillating-led-flasher

Found the correct boards at Pinball Life:

https://www.pinballlife.com/fliptronics-type-2-opto-board-replacement.html?Category_Code=

and

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-opto-interrupter.html

It looks like Marco sells the flat steel spring for these but not sure if they are needed for these ones from Pinball Life. If so I'll have to make another order.

Fixed my Eddy board today. It would sense ok but had no output. Fround a broken lead on the 2n3906 transistor at the body of the part. Just put in a new one and that is set.

Also ordered the first wave of parts to start to get it back together!

Hello club,

Wondering if anyone might have insight on the neutral zone collecting command decision and advance rank? Seems like it sometimes collects this, was wondering if this is expected, or a common issue of sort.

Thank you-