(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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7 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


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#5488 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Tonight's STTNG Mod
(continuing on the dual monitor install). Currently the screens are displaying movie content, however the plan is to have them show LIVE video from the Cannons. Left Cannon / Left Screen.....Right Cannon / Right Screen.
Waiting on the tiny cameras which will be installed within the cannon covers. More to come
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

HI Eric - can you let me know which monitor you used for this build? I have a spare raspberry pie and this looks like a great usage!

1 month later
#5682 2 years ago

HI Guys - new and happy owner of a STTNG - its a restore job. Somebody dropped the Cabinet head onto the bottom - shattered the glass and killed the Glass guides and parts of the cabinet - all restored already.

New trough Opto boards are is ready to install rather than tackle that nightmare and the subway coil mechs are full of gunk and very sluggish.

Apart from that it is in OK shape - I want to get the electronics sorted before I attack and clean it up.

1st and basically only item of business - left cannon. It rotates so the under cabinet motor is good and it registers a ball with the Opto.
But the Lamp is dead and the Coil isn’t firing in gameplay and in test mode. Right Cannon 100%.

Is the Lamp and Coil on the same Ground cable? I assume if both are dead its a probably cable issue and not a transistor?

Yes, I swapped the bulb!

Any advice appreciated, I know the cannons are major source of issue…

3 weeks later
#5818 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I just joined the club myself. Trying to revive a neglected game (it will clean up) and just got the MPU rebuilt and installed NVRAM. I was looking at the A-16100 8-driver PCB and would like to confirm the wire jumpers on it since one looks like a wire was added later. There is a jumper in PW1 and there is a wire jumper to set SW4. Is that the correct setting for this game? If so I have some 0 ohm resistors and will clean up that jumper.
The game continually shoots out balls and if you start a game they never drain. The optos in the trough are a mess. Will probably replace the boards and fix the old ones as a backup. Also noticed F103 is blown.
Hoping to get this sorted out (and at least rebuild my old optos) so I can play it this weekend.
[quoted image]

looking closely at the picture - the Transistor at q12 is broken and one at the back cracked - see the cracked black material - these 100% need replacing..
I think you need to check all of the transistors to make sure no others are dead - use a multimeter - loads of how to's available.

#5820 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I saw that Q12 and the jumper and that is what prompted me to pull out this board. After washing the board all the transistors look fine. Tested them and Q15 is shorted. Will replace that later today. Before putting it back in I need to lookup what it controlled. Also will look into TIE back mod that Eric_Manuel mentioned.
Would still like to confirm the SW4 / PW3 jumper setting.
The opto boards for the trough are pretty scary. At least the one closest to the front of the game is. Will probably replace them (any preferred replacements?) but I should have parts for a temporary repair on that.
Appreciate the tips! I’ve had to repair many of the boards used in this game for others but this is the first time I’ve had the full game and one of my own. Really excited to get this running. Also finally gives me a good way to test DCS sound boards after repairs. I could do those and check most in the bench but nice to run in an actual machine to verify.

Yeah - honestly I am also just starting my STTNG journey - I restored a TZ, a Gottlieb and a couple of Data easts.. I will be checking and doing the Tie-back mod ASAP.
Yeah - the trough boards, I also have new ones to fit - I am in Europe so bought from a Dutch company - Pindora box. I have used their parts before and all works well.

I if 1 transistor is bad - my experience is that it isn’t the only one… perhaps whilst you have it out and if your skills are there - swap them all?

I have no idea regards the jumper setting - perhaps a photo will help? I will take on from my machine
647D801D-9A26-4F67-953F-626DFEFEB965 (resized).jpeg647D801D-9A26-4F67-953F-626DFEFEB965 (resized).jpeg

#5823 2 years ago

Screenshot from the manual - according to this you need a resistor between - W4, SW2, SW4, SW6.. That is exactly what mine has - perhaps another user could make a photo? Can you take a top-down photo so we can see all of the red cable etc?
You are right -if it was on location, the chances of it being swapped from another machine is high...

Also - text from the WIKI - "Jumpers to be installed for Demolition Man and Roadshow should be...

PW1, PW3, PW5
Jumpers to be installed for Twilight Zone, Star Trek: The Next Generation, and Indiana Jones should be...

SW2, SW4, SW6
Indiana Jones, Star Trek: The Next Generation and Twilight Zone use Q12 via the J5-1 connection to add this column"

A16100 (resized).pngA16100 (resized).png

wiki (resized).pngwiki (resized).png

#5825 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Awesome! I missed that part in the manual. Either a jumper or 0 ohm resistor will work. I have a bunch of the 0 ohm resistors on hand so will use those to match what should be on the board.
From that page in the manual it looks like two of my jumpers are incorrect. I also need to move PW5 to SW6.
Over lunch I'll fix the jumpers, replace the bad TIP102, and do that resistor pack mod so the board will be set. Will need to do the tie back mod and check the coil the bad transistor was driving before putting this back in.

Great! Yep - probably a swap from one of the other 3 machines...

1 week later
#5891 2 years ago
Quoted from xingothx:

Nice advances on the ENTERPRISE NCC-1701-D ship (On the left lane WARP FACTOR Also)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looking great

#5927 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

So I am discovering the more standard size 32" diagonal screens are slightly to large to fit into the 27 1/4" W x 17 1/2" H space on the header of a WPC pinball. The width seems to run about 28 1/2 inches wide. It's been suggested if possible to locate a 30" diagonal screen (off standard but better sized. Has anyone on this page replaced their backglass with an 1080HD display? Also, if so, how did you actually mount it while providing access to the header electronics?? Thank you so much.
(photos are not mine, just examples of ideas)
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would love to see something like this happen!
You need to ask some of the Virtual pin forums exactly how large a 32" monitor is when the plastic case is removed.
32 is i think going to prove impossible - even if you try an ultrathin monitor and take the plastic cove off. A 32" monitor with "no bezel" is around 73cm wide and you only have 69.2CM to play with.
If you check the Virtual pinball forums - when they do a widebody Virtual pin, they use 32" screens in the Backbox - but the backbox is always wider than the lower cabinet.
I think that even a 31 inch is going to be hard - 31inch is a rare bird these days - 31.5 is available..

Dell makes a 30 incher monitor - 68.69cm wide - Ultrasharp UP3017. older version if you can find one 2nd hand - U3011 it was 69.45 cm wide..
the U3011 is available on Ebay for around $250..

Fitting - I would go down the computer monitor route - you can then use the Vesa mount and bolt it to a swing-out metal plate - hinged onto the backbox
The thinner the better..

I think the bigger worry would be the depth? Plus the TV will be pumping heat out backwards..

a 27Inch monitor would leave 4.5CM on either side and the modern ones are nice and thin - you could do a custom fixed LCARs style frame around it printed onto plastic panel to blend the screen in - could look pretty authentic because you were always going to have black bars/gaps above and below the screen anyhow.
also with a 27" monitor - you have the space to use the 4.5Cm to build a holding frame to slot it into...

I always think bigger is better, but in this case - a little smaller might make your life a thousand times easier..

a 20" screen would be perfect but I haven't seen one...

#5936 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Pinball.center carry purple?

Yep - just got a full purple set from them - lane guides, posts, pop bumpers..
All ready for in a year when I have finally gotten round to a full teardown…

#5980 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Thank you for an most informed and intelligent answer to a valid STTNG. Rather than the non-comment suggesting going to another page. Of course I will, but again this is a STTNG Specific question. Valid on a page related to that. I'll look into your great ideas, thank you.

Happy to help Eric - shout if you have any questions.

#5988 2 years ago

Hey guys - do any of you gurus have some detailed photos of the single drop target at the back? Specifically the small coil that is attached?

In my machine it looks like the part that gets attracted to the Coil iss too far away so somebody made it stay closer by just putting a long screw into the playfield that kept is close to the coil - I guess I need to adjust/bend it back - so any images of it fully built - away from the playfield would be perfect

9BF5C270-17B3-4326-9564-D92E9F8C51ED (resized).jpeg9BF5C270-17B3-4326-9564-D92E9F8C51ED (resized).jpeg
#5989 2 years ago

Another image request - the star shooter wireframe on my machine was also bent - anybody got any side on closeups of the part above the firing catapult? on mine currently - the catapult is actually getting caught on the wireframe.

Not surprised - I got the machine cheaper because somebody dropped the backboard onto the cabinet and anything close to the rim of the cabinet at the bottom got bent up… Cabinet now fully repaired - new side rails and new glass but still a few issues to fix… Am starting the take apart now.

#5995 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The Frame & Eyelet bracket (A-14913) on your assembly is broken which is quite common. The red arrow shows the bit that gets bent down to hold the actuator plate in place - here's the replacement http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14913
Looks like the plunger plate (01-10380) in your mech is broken. It's the blue arrow - http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-10380
The screw (green arrow) that holds the small coil in place is loose on your assembly and needs to be tightened up.
If you wanted to replace the rusty springs they are 10-433 (is the long one on the drop target) and 10-363 (is the small spring on the knock down assembly)[quoted image]

Thanks Manny - Damn, yes the bit that gets bent down is gone. I already ordered a spare plunger plate with the and the Coils screw - Damn, nope the entire frame holding everything to the playfield is half snapped at the bend - so new Frame and eyelet and new drop frame - basically everything apart from the coils…

Thanks for the awesome Photo - it showed me everything that was broken! Wow this drop taget takes a beating i guess.

#6023 2 years ago

Hi guys - I am pretty sure I know the answer but.... The start mission scoop - this is a solid piece right - 3 pieces spot welded together?

Mine rattles and is 3 separate pieces....

15E5B07F-2608-44D8-B975-20D1935AAF82 (resized).jpeg15E5B07F-2608-44D8-B975-20D1935AAF82 (resized).jpegCD818F07-7B4A-490B-B619-CB2FD1DA2916 (resized).jpegCD818F07-7B4A-490B-B619-CB2FD1DA2916 (resized).jpeg
#6033 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

they (Marco, Pinball Life or Planetary Pinball) one of them sells replacement scoops, toss that one. You likely have other broken things in the machine too. Check so you can get the other items at the same time.

Hi Eric - yes… I did the full tear down yesterday..
Broken ramp? Yes all of them. Including the subway. All hidden by protectors.
Broken scoop
Broken catapult
Broken drop target - 3 breaks..
Broken wireform (small weld job so easy)
Broken Cannon… - new cable ordered, I hope this is the issue. It turns but will not fire and the light does not flash so i hope its the cable.
Broken Plastics - 3
So - anything that could be broken is broken.

BUT.
The Playfield looks good and once I replace everything and add the playfield and plastic protectors it will look awesome And stay awesome!!
And - the more broken bits, the less I have to clean!!!!

Am in Europe so Pinball Center is my port of call.

#6034 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I agree.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16626

I agree to this as well.

Because it sucks to have but parts from multiple vendors and if this is the only item you are buying from Mantis, the shipping cost will likely make it more expensive than buying the exact same item from Marco.

Even worse I live in Europe.. I bought all of the Mantis protectors from an EU Seller - and the scoop!..

#6048 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Sounds like you have the sister machine to mine. I have replaced and rebuilt my machine from the ground up. Here is something to seriously do. Due to the condition of your machine, you are going to need to pull each (I mean EVERY) board out of the backbox and inspect everything.
Bet you have burnt connectors, maybe even board damage. The Power Driver board in the HEART of your system, and I replaced mine with a new Rotten Dog board. Suggest you reflow all the solder on everything. Likely you will also want to check all of your ground connections and install the Tie Backs.
Great and worthwhile upgrades include a color dmd and Pinsound Plus with speakers and headphone station.
check out my profile and you will see tons of photos on my machine.
Eric

Ha - of course... boards are on the list and I already have found 5 or so connectors that need changing - somebody loved repairing connectors by flowing solder into them...

#6052 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Zitt , here is the pic with the slingshot put back together with the black Star posts, lighting kit, and clear slingshot ring
[quoted image]

Looks great..

#6053 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The Frame & Eyelet bracket (A-14913) on your assembly is broken which is quite common. The red arrow shows the bit that gets bent down to hold the actuator plate in place - here's the replacement http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14913
Looks like the plunger plate (01-10380) in your mech is broken. It's the blue arrow - http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-10380
The screw (green arrow) that holds the small coil in place is loose on your assembly and needs to be tightened up.
If you wanted to replace the rusty springs they are 10-433 (is the long one on the drop target) and 10-363 (is the small spring on the knock down assembly)[quoted image]

All repaired and re-installed. Works like a charm. Thanks all.

#6054 2 years ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

All repaired and re-installed. Works like a charm. Thanks all.

Hi guys - least question for a while - just had a few deliveries of spares and need to spend das cleaning…. Does anybody have a large picture of the 3rd pop bumper cap cutout? Mine is missing and I want to use a Dremel on a full one..

#6063 2 years ago
Quoted from Enaud:

Hope this helps. This is what I had to create mine.
[quoted image]

Awesome thanks!

1 week later
#6216 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Not defending them.
I honestly have no idea where they get their prices.
I was really trying to poke some humor at the situation; which obviously didn't come across in the reply. ;D</blockquot

Not defending them.
I honestly have no idea where they get their prices.
I was really trying to poke some humor at the situation; which obviously didn't come across in the reply. ;D

Humor has disappeared this week by the looks of it!
We all need to get back to remembering it’s a hobby!

#6217 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

They are high that is why I hope that others will post some sources for replacement cables. I may end up making my own set when I go to replace them.

I know it dousn’t help due to stupid freight and import. But Pinball Center in Europe sells them for €17. I think that’s a good reference price.
Parts cost around 9 so I paid the difference rather than do it myself. I HATE crimping.

#6218 2 years ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

I know it dousn’t help due to stupid freight and import. But Pinball Center in Europe sells them for €17. I think that’s a good reference price.
Parts cost around 9 so I paid the difference rather than do it myself. I HATE crimping.

correction- I Suck at crimping. So I tell myself I hate it

#6219 2 years ago

Hi Guys - I am nearing the end of my restore - a double bonus because that means I can play Royal rumble again - it has spent the last week's covered with what feels like 20 tons of metal parts and ramps....

I have lost the screws holding the cannon covers on. My box full of metric screws aren't right - can anybody let me know the size or a link to the screws? I can't believe 8 screws are going to stop me...

#6228 2 years ago
Quoted from jadziedzic:

The original screws used were #6-32 x 5/16" round washer head machine screws (4006-01027-05); the 3/8" long part mentioned above (4006-01027-06) is a compatible replacement if you can't find the 5/16" variety.

Thanks to all for the support. I will get an order placed after a final search...

#6242 2 years ago

Hi Guys - I purchased a full set of Mantis ramp protectors - I started with the Alpha ramp and cannot see how to fit these things....the fixing rings are 1cm or so above the rummber screws

Pretty sure user error but can anybody upload some images of each ramp with the protectors fitted?

#6260 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Overview and Installation of the STTNG Borg Alcove Display mod
Extreme Pinball Mods
VIDEO

[quoted image][quoted image]

I Loke that Eric! Do you think that could be replicated on a larger screen across the entire back?

#6261 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I'm going to guess you don't actually suck at it, you just don't have the right tool for the job.
These are the 3 crimp tools I use for manufacturing cables while they are currently unavailable there are many similar items available that should work equally well.
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

LOL - No i have one of those exact items. I still suck!

Getting better though.

#6262 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Yeah I had issues getting the ramp protectors on as well when I refurbished my machine...I recall a lot of dremel tool sanding, I'm working right now but can snap a pic tomorrow if someone's doesn't come up with one...I used starship Fantasy ramps btw.

Thanks - Yeah, its just the Alpha ramp protectors I am struggling with. The rest are self explanatory

#6264 2 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I fitted these not long ago, the Alpha’s just bolt to the front posts then I made new holes at the back on the ramp and added double sided tape. Pretty straight forward, added double sided tape to other ramps too. Ship is in the way to take a pic, did try.

OK I need to check the mail - might have the wrong posts there. See picture - they are well off.

5C51DB27-324B-4314-9506-F56B5CA9A279 (resized).jpeg5C51DB27-324B-4314-9506-F56B5CA9A279 (resized).jpegB55F32C2-A115-4B60-9581-96A467ED03AF (resized).jpegB55F32C2-A115-4B60-9581-96A467ED03AF (resized).jpeg
#6265 2 years ago

Ignore post -found the answer on pinball database images.

14F2882F-FEF2-4788-972B-5FD35466DBDD (resized).jpeg14F2882F-FEF2-4788-972B-5FD35466DBDD (resized).jpeg
#6268 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Here are a couple shots of the alpha ramp...you can see the area I had to dig away to fit the protector...not sure these were made for these ramps or maybe the original ramps...but the fit was awful on this ramp
[quoted image][quoted image]

Exactly what I was looking for thank you

#6269 2 years ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

Exactly what I was looking for thank you

Done - yes, it looks like the replacement plastic was strengthened - Allways good to buy something shiny for over a hundred bucks and then Dremel the heck out of it! But the new protectors look Bullet proof.

038299D9-5205-49C3-A771-8201DA68D1D9 (resized).jpeg038299D9-5205-49C3-A771-8201DA68D1D9 (resized).jpegE573A168-DAED-4FC6-BC94-FAA2A788E754 (resized).jpegE573A168-DAED-4FC6-BC94-FAA2A788E754 (resized).jpeg
#6305 2 years ago

Hi guys - finally got my machine to a point when I could start as game…. Of course I have issues.

I have a new troughs opto board set but something is wrong - when i start a game it shoots 2 balls out. I think it is the trough cable and switch and will check Those out - the connector to the Opto receiver board looks shot. I I am pretty sure that’s the issue.

But - i have 2 issues - possible linked. When the kickback coil - I get a Tilt error? And the machine randomly is rebooting.
Any experts with ideas - I am guessing I have a short somewhere?

Zero error messages and no dot.
Any advice accepted - my next step will be to repeat coil tests and see if the machine resets.

#6309 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

This game doesnt seem to do error dots. I had 2 switches stuck on and my game, didn't know it. I am just getting over to many balls in shooter lane. Game acts a bit crazy. Check your wires on left side bundle right by opts control PCB. I had a broken wire. Wires get caught and broken there.

Yes - There is 1 replacement cable there and I will check the rest - 1 of the connectors there looks strange.
I will take a look at the cables by the kick out and tilt warning..
Then, i just read the Pinwiki on 5v issues and will go through all of the steps to see if this fixes it. Strange because before I started repairing i didn’t get any shorts but this is a well used game - i already had to reseat the ribbon cables due to an issue.

Anyhow I need to check all the boards in detail.

But the tilt error is strange.

#6312 2 years ago
Quoted from koji:

Game definitely indicates switch errors with credit dots. Might be something else going on with it..

Switches are all fine.. its opto‘s and the ball rescue kicker…
I had error logs before based on switches..

I think i have 3 issues..

Ball trough opto -cable is a mess and i think 1 opto is not registering.. Boards are brand new.
Rescue ball kicker instantly registers a tilt
<Game resets - unless linked, i guess the 5v issue..

#6400 2 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Little confused about the pin sound board. From what I’ve read, will the pin sound board have all the original sounds/music/call outs, just in better sound?
If so, is it the base program or that has to be programmed in?
Thanks, just not familiar with it.

Correct. OEM Sounds available from Pinsound - you Download it and add it to a USB stick from the Pinsound forum. There are also some customer sound packs there- you can embelish or make a new one yourself.

#6401 2 years ago

This was discussed in the Forum a while back. Answer is both Williams appeared the switch. -probably depending on availability….

#6414 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

oh heck.... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's a pretty good wire harness picture also

Yep. Damn, I need to do some work on mine now...

#6428 2 years ago

Hi Guys - SO I am nearing the end of the refurb….

I had a cannon issue that i think is resolved - well it is working right now - some intermittent connection issue…. When I have a day to look I will investigate (I already replaced the entire cannon cable)

BUT, whenever I play a game, it resets?

I tried a few times - I could get it to reset when I get to shoot a cannon and then the next time i press the right flipper - game resets. Power down and reboot.

Any steer from you guys? Could this just be the 5v circuit? I had hoped that was going to be OK because i swapped to LED’s but i guess that is the AC circuit…

Any advice appreciated.

#6436 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Put game in test mode... pound away at the flipper buttons...
1) does the game reset?
Answer:
Yes--- +5volt regulator circuitry is failing and can't handle the +50volt spikes from the flippers.
No---- something else is wrong with the game.

Brilliant! Tried this - reset after 3 seconds.
so, now I know what to look at. Thanks guys - will go through the pinwiki.

#6439 2 years ago

Ok. So apart from 5v issue.. when I press start. And shoot a ball into play - my game immediately adds another ball to the catapult and auto fires it. Any ideas?

I installed brand new ball trough opto boards and in test they work fine - all 7 optos.
Catapult switch also tests fine.

#6441 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

It should load two balls to the vuks thru the subway

Yes - they are loaded. All ready to play press start and a ball is loaded into catapult. Press fire and ball is launched to start game and immediately a 2nd ball is loaded and auto fired.

#6444 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Are you sure there are six and not seven balls in the game? Stupid question, but I've seen it happen especially in this game that stages balls.

Yep - emptied and checked.. I am going to check the remaining optos tomorrow - subway rebuilt already but I will check the other ones underneath the play field…

#6449 2 years ago

Thanks guys - i will check when I have a moment and come back. I am guessing an opto is the issue… Subway - I swapped the cracked one I had out and all optos and diverters are working 100%.. the machine has all new ramps including subway - all were shot.

#6450 2 years ago

Quick update image: still to do:
1. Polish top half of playfield - I only added the wire ramps to test how it was working
2. Add war bird and Klingon ships - hallmark versions are on my table awaiting some resistors but the hard work is done…
3. Target decals..
3 - replace 2 missing plastics…

Then into the electrics and fix the 5v issue and ball issue!!

This game is taking a while…

C88C07E6-B2C8-4ACC-8983-14D6EB30C270 (resized).jpegC88C07E6-B2C8-4ACC-8983-14D6EB30C270 (resized).jpeg
#6451 2 years ago

Oh - and do something with these 2:

BE4ED40F-90BE-4BF8-89B5-86765D3DC76A (resized).jpegBE4ED40F-90BE-4BF8-89B5-86765D3DC76A (resized).jpeg
#6452 2 years ago

Close up of my custom bumper caps - I looked at the Zit ones and they are excellent but for me they covered up the bumper too much - and I like to fiddle with things like this myself..

81A0A121-ED20-4827-AB9C-71B6597994B8 (resized).jpeg81A0A121-ED20-4827-AB9C-71B6597994B8 (resized).jpeg
#6453 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Thanks, I didn't even realize it was broken.
My machine looks like this:
[quoted image]
I googled around to find what should be there, and found the picture I posted in my last post. So I thought I was missing a metal piece, but in fact it is just a broken plastic. Funny both of these machines had a piece of metal stuck there.
[quoted image]

Yeah - your clear plastic on top is also broken - I know because mine didn't even exist... it should have 2 posts up top to stop a ball from getting stuck I think.
I now have the plastic and all parts but need to dismantle loads to fit it...

#6454 2 years ago

Hey guys - is there a secret I am missing here?

I have my final missing plastic fitted but I can’t see how to get this back in the game: what screw is used here or is something hidden: on the plastic I have a standard spacer and from other images it looks like a standard screw.

But on the playfield- it screws into this hole

CF44CF63-B5D5-432A-88FD-8C9C81892FF7 (resized).jpegCF44CF63-B5D5-432A-88FD-8C9C81892FF7 (resized).jpegE8CC3BDC-C8DF-4721-8CFE-357C610558B0 (resized).jpegE8CC3BDC-C8DF-4721-8CFE-357C610558B0 (resized).jpeg
#6455 2 years ago

Totally different screw size

E8E861BB-7F68-47D7-9952-23B54BDBB9AE (resized).jpegE8E861BB-7F68-47D7-9952-23B54BDBB9AE (resized).jpeg
#6458 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Here is the original parts list for that plastic assembly. Maybe it can help you see if your parts are correct?
[quoted image]
Mine is a mess but maybe it will help. One post screws into the ball guide (thru the big hole in plastic), the other has a nut.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect thanks.. I need to get the right screw..

#6459 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Tonight, the Enterprise 1701-D Topper arrives. For anyone modding one these ships, the difficulty speaks for itself. It's not perfect, or the most expensive, realistic one, but it works for me.
Hope everyone likes it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

3 weeks later
#6541 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Tonight, the Enterprise 1701-D Topper arrives. For anyone modding one these ships, the difficulty speaks for itself. It's not perfect, or the most expensive, realistic one, but it works for me.
Hope everyone likes it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

Quoted from Trindawg:

Is there a master bulb list somewhere that someone has compiled ? I’m wanting to LED out my machine and also am thinking about LED OCD. Thanks !

Do a search in this forum - there is an awesome excel to download.

#6550 2 years ago

I finally got my Machine “finished” also upgraded the sound with new speakers and pin sound. External power supply for the mods.

I custom made the pop bumpers and did the new ships, Locutus and borg ship myself.

I thought I was finished but I am getting the 5v reset so I will try using the external power as a solution. I put a PC power box in so I have enough juice.. And I have the Boards ready to fix LED GI - just need to install.

I made the Borg ship a bit too dark but in the end I love it - it’s a dark spot in the game that you forget about until the Blue flashers kick off.. awesome.

But cosmetically all finished!!! Oops nope. A color DMD is on its way…
OK - let’s call this an update then in my ongoing mission to seek out a finished STTNG

1632A54B-B808-400C-8BEE-336189252075 (resized).jpeg1632A54B-B808-400C-8BEE-336189252075 (resized).jpeg356C954C-FEA1-4277-9997-2C311EB51304 (resized).jpeg356C954C-FEA1-4277-9997-2C311EB51304 (resized).jpeg6F2323AF-4530-4499-B2C8-B6E9D29D87A5 (resized).jpeg6F2323AF-4530-4499-B2C8-B6E9D29D87A5 (resized).jpeg8606357F-43BA-4F23-919B-790B1E6C1A54 (resized).jpeg8606357F-43BA-4F23-919B-790B1E6C1A54 (resized).jpegC53EA73E-5AF5-4E47-B5BA-B5E366B91659 (resized).jpegC53EA73E-5AF5-4E47-B5BA-B5E366B91659 (resized).jpegC947151A-9B61-4784-B88E-68F48C31971F (resized).jpegC947151A-9B61-4784-B88E-68F48C31971F (resized).jpegE599D39F-D1E1-4428-9C1A-24A7DAB58335 (resized).jpegE599D39F-D1E1-4428-9C1A-24A7DAB58335 (resized).jpegED72EBCA-F25E-48A2-BB17-D352DB063825 (resized).jpegED72EBCA-F25E-48A2-BB17-D352DB063825 (resized).jpegF40D723B-AF2A-46E2-A67F-D37F0394760D (resized).jpegF40D723B-AF2A-46E2-A67F-D37F0394760D (resized).jpegF5C11022-BEAC-4D5F-93C5-C278A045E7A1 (resized).jpegF5C11022-BEAC-4D5F-93C5-C278A045E7A1 (resized).jpeg

#6551 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Colored GI on this game is really stupid if you don’t play in a super brightly lit room. It’s such a dark game with poor lighting to start with.
STTNG was my first LED conversion and I got the colored crap because I didn’t know any better. What a waste of money. Had to buy a bunch more bulbs after to get it bright enough to play. My gameroom is dark like the 80’s arcades were.
Cool white GI suits this game well. GI-OCD is a must to enjoy the built in effects(shields dimming).

I think it’s a matter of either wanting to stay faithful to the 80s game room or not…

Let’s face it - the rooms were dark because lights were bad and expensive to power in the 90’s
The machines were dark because that’s all they could power with old bulbs - and Dark means more ball drains so more money!
If this game were made today with no other changes - there would be color Leds added.

I play with a light room altogether. But I also only added small amounts of color - purple in the top right but this area I brightened up with Pop Bumper Halo leds. Apart from that I added a couple of purples for wormhole. And command decision is blue.

If you have a dark game room - I agree though. I played Avatar yesterday in a dark hall and it was blinding… The flashers hurt!

#6554 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

For the reset have you removed the dreaded z-connector? That fixed mine.
Trekkies are gonna have a meltdown with your topper. Wrong font for the TNG series.

LOL yeah - wrong font that's true... I am, pretty sure that when checked I have used the wrong green for the Romulans, a sticker is upside down and a few other errors...

#6555 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Did you miss my pop bumper caps, or too expensive?

Hi Zitt - no, I saw yours - nothing to do with price, I like to do things myself and I wanted to use the pops to brighten up that area and yours cover up a lot of the upward facing light.

Just a personal preference.

2 weeks later
#6592 2 years ago

Lots of opinions here - the Ghosting will happen anyhow is my 1st comment. You need a solution for this and the best bulbs still have an issue…

3 Options:
A new game rom with Anti Ghosting code - a good solution that fixes 80% of the issue -you need to find somebody who can do this for you - several in the forums

LEDOCD - a aftermarket circuit board that interrupts the signals between your circuit board and the lights. It kills the flickering and you can set the LED bulbs to either turn instantly on and off or act like incandescent bulbs and “fade”

Project afterglow - a similar but homemade product you will see forum members regularly offering group buys - more used i Think in Europe because it was designed there by some forum members. Very active in UK and Germany - does the same as LEDOCD.

Both of the aftermarket boards are crazy customizable - you can set the brightness of each bulb - so if you have a bulb that’s a bit too bright - you can turn it down, one by one..

Regards brands - comet is the/one of the best so you can’t go wrong.

Clear is intense and forwards focused.
Frosted spreads the light out more - this is a preference and there are loads of tube movies.
Frosted are perfect for GI - personal choice for the rest..

Regards colours - LOTS of opinions…
I personally stayed with White in the outer saucer ring and blue for the larger lights.
Teal is the generally accepted colour for the shields
I put purple in wormhole..

You have guys who like the machines a close to “Factory” as possible. But generall - so long as it doesn’t look like a rainbow or distract from gameplay, its all good - you can allways change it - add a few whites to the order..

Regards white - Cold White looks great in STTNG

This is ALL personal opinion - but I think Most here would strongly recommend the LEDOCD - anything else and you will be disappointed with ghosting - its an instant solution.

#6604 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

I would light all mods with external power, and not use the machine at all. Hallmark ships do NOT all use the same power btw. Much discussion on this topic has been previously posted with the proper advice. So a search on the topic.

Agree - get a separate Power block. They cost $20 so also one of the cheapest mods out there... You can get one with dual power output and check to see what you need for the Hallmarks machines you own..

It's a 28 year old game and the power supply and when new, there was just enough to power to drive what was in there 28 years ago... If you swap to LED'S, you free up some bandwidth for a couple of mods maybe.

I have had power issues with Williams, Gottlieb and Data East and unless you want to keep the system OEM - in which case you aren't adding mods - mod the power as well. The good news is that it's completely reversible.

2 weeks later
#6657 2 years ago
Quoted from Redwizard000:

Got my shipment from Comet in and switched out my saucer bulbs. Changed the outer bulbs from white (and an odd green) to purple and changed the command decision light from purple to white.
I think it looks pretty good, what do you guys think?
I will play with it like that for a while, though I can't play too seriously because my right flipper is messed up and I am waiting on a rebuild kit. I have enough white bulbs to change them all back to white with a purple in the middle, that's the alternative, if it turns out I don't like them like this.
[quoted image]

Ooohh - lots of opinions!

I like it. The entire top right of the game is pinky purple so it works IMO. I Find LED blue ist distracting - it somehow burns my retina. But purple is more subtle

And - as mods go - if you or the next person isn’t happy it’s 2 minutes and $2..
You haven’t changed the entire color scheme or made anything excessive or ugly.
Play it enjoy it. If you don’t like it change it.

Quoted from Pahuffman:

Indeed. Every insert was designed to have an incandescent bulb underneath, which would illuminate the insert in whatever color it was plus perhaps slightly warmer. I agree LEDs look better for a multitude of reasons including brightness and clarity, but it has to be done within reason. Doing over-the-top lighting modifications like that take away from the experience intended by the designer. If the inserts were supposed to be purple, Greg Freres and Steve Ritchie would have made them purple.

LOL - if the game was designed today all of the lights would be RGB and change Color depending on the mode, pretty sure in battle modes they would be red (Red Alert!!), Green for Romulan Mode etc etc - like modern games -

In the 90’s Those guys had no choice… If you want to replicate the true original colours - those mode lights should be lit in yellow with a resistor in line halving the LED output!

“Over the top lighting”. - come on guys - 7 bulbs in a consistent color isn’t over the top… There is an entire thread for “Rainbow puke” machines and that is a different planet.

The “Experience” intended by the designer was a constrained experience based on technology available and cost. If remade today, and if no other changes were made, the entire game would be 300% brighter - it is dark not because the Freres and Ritchie wanted it dark:
1. They were constrained by the number of Yellow incandescent bulbs the power supply could feed -
2. Game halls were dark because lighting was expensive - a really bright game looked bad. (And because darker means harder - more drains, more revenue)

Lets be realistic guys - most machines are now in brightly lit rooms and they look.. Dark and dare i say it drab alongside a modern game - if you still have incandescents you barely notice if they are on. LED’s modernise them and make them brighter.
it’s like saying a Color DMD is over the top because it moves away from what the designer intended - Guy used an orange one.

Each to their own - that’s the fun, I love seeing the same game looking so different - Eric Manuel’s is an amazing feat of design, a fully factory game looks awesome. but lets not assume Factory was best because that’s exactly what the designers wanted - lots of compromises were made, like in any design made reality.

#6660 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

To be fair, he asked for opinions on it so no one should be upset when you hear one you disagree with. I'd also note that Stern in particular has dialed back their use of RGB leds, especially for GI more and more the last few titles and not just on the Pro models. I like a good RGB light show, own WOZ and think it's beautiful but not every game needs that.

Yeah - WOZ is amazing - but I agree, if every game was like that or GNR it would be a bright room!

#6663 2 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Sure, but the game wasn't made today. It was made in the 90s, so you're making my point about preserving the original feel of the game.

As mentioned above, it's not about replication for me. It's about *tasteful* modern upgrades that preserve the original intent of the designer.

This may be true, but it doesn't take away from the fact that the "experience" is what it is based on those constraints.

That's pure conjecture.

This is your best point, and one I can largely agree with. This is where it all comes down to "drawing the line." I love a Color DMD. I think it enhances a game in a way no other mod can even though it's not exactly preserving the original intent. I even keep my STTNG Color DMD on overscan mode - no dots to be found.

Indeed! I would normally keep my mouth closed about it, but RedWizard did ask for opinions. Do I think the purple looks garish? Absolutely. Does it matter? Not one damn bit haha. It's not my game! It does make for some interesting discussion though. "Best" is entirely subjective, and it largely depends on your personal goals for your game.
The discussion reminds me how every single element of a Fender Stratocaster has been "improved" over the last 60 years, but people still pay tens of thousands for the originals. Others prefer to have Custom Shop Strats made to their preferred specs, and still others like to buy right off the shelf at the guitar store. As long as it plays the way you want, that's all that really matters.

Pahuffman - This is the kind of discussion that we should all have on forums - informed, friendly and fun! I agree RedWizard asked for Opinions and they should be positive and negative - Thanks for taking the time to read my monologue and responding. I don't disagree with anything you say and I agree, a Color DMD is the single best enhancement a game can receive.

#6664 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I don't disagree with your post but I will say this: LED GI may make it brighter but only if you stay "full spectrum". I.e. white. If you colorize the GI then you aren't making it brighter so what's really the point? Purple is just about the worst offender for making the game darker instead of brighter.
I know a few local collectors that just like owning machines, turn them on every day and just look at the blinking lights - I bought my WOZ from one of them lol. They don't play their games. Those are the people that seem to enjoy owning rainbow puked games. They're just in for the attract mode.

You are right - there is a tricky balance between improving the Brightness and hurting the game. For me, GI should be White - some games are better with Cold White, some with natural/more yellow - I have a Maverick for example, with Cold white this would look horrible in my opinion.

But colour inserts - follow the colours if they are coloured - but if they are clear - why not add something - In my TZ I made a couple of the white inserts blue - because it stands out and reminds me to hit that target!

Blinking lights made me chuckle - 2 days ago I turned on all my machines (only 5) and stood there looking at the attract modes - for about 1 minute, then I was playing for 3 hours. Just 1 more game..

2 weeks later
#6759 2 years ago

That looks blue…. I got mine from(Europe) Pinball center - they are Purple..

pasted_image (resized).jpegpasted_image (resized).jpeg
8 months later
#7860 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Thanks, Eric. I thought about that, but with the exception of the tie-back mod I usually fall in the camp of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I need to do the connectors now for obvious reasons. Assuming the trough optos are working 100% after re-pinning and converting to Molex, I'll continue to play and enjoy the game. If/when more trough issues crop up, I'll buy new boards and swap them out (which should be an easy 10 minute process after getting rid of the hard-wired kludge where wires were soldered directly to the PCBs).
Funny thing - I do love my STTNG but I haven't played it much lately....been on a BKSoR, Meteor, and STPro kick. When I played my STTNG for the first time in a couple of months a few weeks ago, I immediately hit this trough wiring issue. Now that it's been down waiting for me to finish the re-pinning, I've been dying to play it.....and I can't yet. You always seem to want what you don't or can't have!

If it works - leave it. Sounds like this is one of several pins so the world doesn't end if its broke for a few days..
Your “hack” will either fail quickly or work for years.
Its obvious if it has issues and you can upgrade later… I understand the color coding comment- but its 2 inches of cable - you can see the colored cables easily to track..

And yeah - posting your images without permission is a D!ck move, especially with negative comments.

5 months later
#8540 1 year ago
Quoted from oradke:

Xianek does excellent work: https://xianek.eu/?l=en[quoted image][quoted image]

I have the same one and can confirm they are excellent!

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