(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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7 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


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#3237 4 years ago

Thinking of picking one of these up restored from a distributor. Anything I should be on the alert for/ask about specific to this game?

#3244 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm assuming you'll be paying top dollar; hence Distributor:
Look for acid damage on CPU board. Look to see what rom the CPU board has. Confirm IPDB.ORG claims LX-7 is the latest CPU code. IF they have LEDs installed in Inserts; verify and ask if they've installed non-Ghosting patch to the ROM. Else look closely to make sure the LEDs in the machine aren't flickering.
Look for burned traces on PDB.
Look for PF damage at Neutral Zone hole and to a lesser degree; the back drop target.
Look for cracked/damaged Ramps at entrance holes. IE where the ball would cause most damage. Verify pricing on a ramp set before you go.
Common Mylar damage on the top "delta/insignia" insert between beta ramp entrance the side wall at the "Exit" of launch orbit. Verify the subway nexus is clean. It should be clear; not sliver. IE if dirty; it will look like silver mirror. Clean; it will be effectively clear. Ask when the PF was last fully shopped; IE teardown complete topside to clean; else you'll have to do it at some point. Ask them to show you the
diode tieback solutionhas been implemented to avoid burning boards later..
Play several games. Verify no credit dot. Make sure rear drop target assembly is working right but using diagnostics to raise and drop the target under cpu control. Make sure assembly isn't "loose" from stripped out mounting holes.
Standard shop job; Is it clean? are the rubbers new? All lamps working. Look for cracked / damaged translite. Check for binding on both cannons.
Common to see cracked ART plastics. The one between the neutral zone and advanced rank is usually cracked at the tip.
Slingshot Plastics; usually have chips on the corners. Plastic near the back drop target is usually broken just behind the hole.
Plastics under the Side lane feeders usually are broken. If cracked; look before you go at CPR's STNG plastics. Know how much to expect to pay for a new set of plastics.
Test solenoids in diags to make sure all diverters are working.
Just my thoughts for initial quality checks. Remember; this machine can be a bear to maintain due to complexity. Be comfortable that the whole machine is "A++" if your paying A++ pricing. Remember to expect problems and be comfortable to fix.
Research pricing here in the market to get a range of prices. Superclean, no issue machine would fetch higher. A "flipped" dirty machine would fetch on the lower end. Again; Distributors will claim this been restored with all they did was wipe it down and throw some rubbers in it. All of the above will help you determine how much the distributor really did.

Amazing response. I’m actually going to copy-paste this in an email to the distributor. it is a top dollar price and they are claiming a full work over on the machine and a 90 day warranty. I will not have an opportunity to play before I buy.

#3256 4 years ago

I don’t see a way to do upvotes on my phone and I’m still a pinside noob.

I’ll load up the website on my pc this weekend and give your posts some attention.

I sent you list off to the dealer. They are updating the rom (was LX-5).

There is some ramp damage and they said they will repair or replace it with no added cost. (Showed me a picture). They confirmed repairs to traces, tieback, and the other things with pictures. Rubbers have all been replaced. Balls replaced. The LEDs are premium non-ghosting.

It’s M&P Amusements selling it for $6,495 with a 90 day warranty/support.

https://mpamusement.com/collections/used-pinball-machines/products/star-trek-the-next-generation-pinball-machine

I got my AFMR LE from Game Room Guys a couple of years ago and they took great care of me while I learned the ropes dialing in my first ever pin. At that point I’d never worked a pin before ever. But GRG free phone/email support talked me through taking out the playfield, routine maintenance, etc.

That gave me the confidence I needed to buy a Revenge from Mars that needed some TLC and I’ve done quite well with that one without support.

So I’m comfortable with dealers but appreciate folks experience and value knowing what to look for since each table is so different. This would be my 3rd pin.

Quoted from Zitt:

Yet no upvotes.
I speak from experience.
I was just looking at my machine this weekend repairing the Power Driver Board. I had to do more adjustments to be back drop target a day or two because it was shotgunning after repairing it for "Credit dot". My Drop Target was "stripped" due to constant repair which came to a head a couple of years ago at TPF. The three wood screws were stripped and I had to find a toothpick or two for onsite repair before I did a real repair with wood glue when it got home.
I have burned traces which someone repaired. I repaired burnt connectors last time I had it on the bench - even installed new crimp on connectors. Still have broken side plastics and the plastic between neutral and advance rank. I repaired the rear plastic:
I still have ticking timebomb of tieback... lazy, it's 104 with 112 heat index right now. So no chance until winter- maybe.
My local friend has an STNG with the delta damage... and was saying how it bothered him greatly. His he said looked like someone took a Dremel to it. I'm seeing the mylar on mine beginning to bubble. So I know it's going to be a fix needed soon - hopefully an easy repair.
My machine was an Auction machine from unknown heritage - probably a routed game. I paid "top dollar" back in 2007... and it was dirty with all kinds of issues. I still haven't bravely tore down the machine for a real shop and clean. So; if I were paying a distributor "top dollar"; I'd expect him to do it for a "restored game".
Finally - I know this is going to be dismissed as "too expensive"... but given this machine's current market prices... and the fact that this was said:

This right here should give you an immediate pause / WTF moment. You aren't getting a deal. You will be on the upper range of pricing. This game needs to be perfect. DO NOT TRUST the seller - I don't care who it is... unless is direct from HEP himself.
You need to discuss a refundable deposit to hold the game.
Pay Frontier airlines or some other cheap airline.
Go see the game and look at it with your own hands.
If it is an A++ game or you can get a more in line price... then pay them and watch them wrap it up for shipping or whatever.
Just don't "trust the seller"; you'll probably end up regretting it.
Re-Read that above... and seriously consider it. I can't tell you how many times we have heard "stories" and regrets.

#3258 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

$6,500+ shipping ?! Wow

Yeah, I knew it was high. That’s why I wanted to go in with a punch list of things to ask/check beyond the generic.

If I have confirmed that they or (someone) addressed everything on that list appropriately that’s a lot of time/labor saved for me for now.

So question is, with all those things addressed and a 90 day support window is it worth it?

Worst case I get it. Something blows or got missed, I notice it during the support period, and they send me the part and/or walk me through the repair.

If they have good support, have already addressed the known issues, and I have no intention of ever reselling the pin, is the game worth it?

From everything I’ve read on this thread about maintenance I’m honestly scared to buy this table at all. Let alone from a venue without some kind of support window.

But I don’t want to avoid it either just because stuff will break. I wouldn’t own any.

This pin is cheaper than my AFMR LE but I think I’ll have just as much fun if it arrives in working order. That’s how I am initially determining if it’s “worth it”.

#3263 4 years ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Agreed. $6,500 is retail price, which is what this is. Certainly you can find a nice one for $1k cheaper. Maybe $2k cheaper. I paid $3,950 for mine, but it needed a ton of work. I bet I have close to $6k in it, but it’s fully rebuilt with a ton of new parts. All ramps, plastics, mech rebuilds, etc. In hindsight, I paid too much. But I love the machine...

This is a good datapoint too. This is the exact scenario I’m afraid of with searching for a deal. Not to mention your time is worth something too. So I’d say you have well over 6k into it.

#3265 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Here's the thing... You can't go see the machine first hand; therefore, it's not local to you. This means shipping - since if it were in driving distance; you'd go drive and pick it up.
So; that 90day support is effectively worthless.
How are they going to resolve issues you find? Are they going to pay a pin-tech to come do repairs?
Get this in writing.
IT's all in what YOU think the machine is worth; and you still haven't gone to see it.
I'm going to assume based on your statements that you're new to Pin ownership given a NIB AFMr experience.
You didn't say if the pin was a "Grail pin" for you... Are you buying STNG because your a Fan; or because it's #3 on IPDB.org?
IF your a fan; and this game is a keeper for you... and your not afraid of the complexity / repair mountain in front of you... then $6500 is probably worth it.
However, if troubleshooting isn't in your vocabulary and you're not a Show fan... then owning this pin is going to lead you to sadness. It's going to suck the joy away from owning pinball.
For me; I actually like working on the machines more than playing them and it shows in my skills when playing. I actually welcome project pinball machines because I like making them better than they are.
It's ultimately up to you.
PS Upvoting:[quoted image]

I understand what you are saying. All valid things to consider.

While not a grail pin for me, I do plan to keep it indefinitely. My family has watched the entire STNG series together. We are fans. I honestly don’t care what it’s rated.

As I mentioned before I’ve done quite a bit of work on my Revenge from Mars. Lamp & Switch replacements, playfield cleanup & repair. Software updates. Adding, cliffys, a shaker motor, and knocker next (they are on my bench). It is kinda cool seeing a partially playable game become full featured again. That said, I paid considerably less for my RFM than this STNG.

I also have 7 arcade machines most of which I’ve had to repair or restore all still rocking CRTs (no lcds in my arcade!).

One is a Bad Dudes cab I’m rebuilding from a gutted discarded Data East cab I’ve bondo’d, sanded, and wired myself.

Everything in my private collection is a game I own to play. Not for bragging rights. Many lock in some specific memory from my childhood.

Not afraid of having stuff like this shipped. Michelle always has my back there.

Once here, I have a soldering iron with temp control, a logic tester, an EPROM eraser and burner, I’m no virgin to electronics troubleshooting and repair. Won’t claim to be a pro. I’ve always been a software guy but built my own computers. Arcade PCB/pinball repair is actually how I’m learning about electronics past the plug and pray level as well as how to read schematics.

It’s something I plan to do more of as a hobby as I get closer towards retirement.

Sometimes I honestly don’t know if I like playing the games or tinkering with them more.

I don’t need them to fly a tech to my house. I can execute most repairs myself short of clear coating the playfield. But since I can’t claim to be a pro with years of experience (yet) I like the added benefit of having an experienced tech I can get on the phone/video chat/email to debug and discuss issues.

I also like be warned of what to avoid doing so I don’t need to learn that the hard and expensive way.

I don’t have tons (or really any) local friends let alone collector friends.

So I usually gotta pay for that kind of expertise and experience. Or post on Internet forums (as I sometimes do) and hope for someone like you to give me a bit of your time (which I greatly appreciate).

I do have a hope/assumption that I might get at least a few months and a couple hundreds plays out of it before having to undertake a serious solo debugging and repair job.

But maybe that’s not possible with this table? Only you current owners would know. How many games do you folks feel you can get before “ah, crap?” And the next set of repairs?

My fear is three games, broken. Fix. Five games. Broken. Fix. Ten games. Broken. Fix. Repeat.

Several dozen games. Broken. Fix. I expect and can live with. Replace worn parts every couple of years. No problem.

#3266 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I paid about $2400 in hammer price and fees when I bought my STNG at auction in 2007. It was my FIRST pinball machine. It had cannon issues; opto issues; and all the other things I stated above. I have probably another 1500 is parts and mods in my machine. I wouldn't trade that experience for anything... it's what helped me launch my Pinball hobby and
Mod businessso it's worth it to me.

RFM is my first pin machine with issues and my first itch to mod. Loving it. But that’s for the Hilary thread.

It looks like I can’t upvote on the phone?

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#3300 4 years ago

Thanks for all the advice and insights folks. I decided to pass on the STNG because higher resolution photos showed more playfield wear than I am comfortable with for the price they are asking.

Their techs seemed quite sharp and knowledgeable. I floated a bid by the owner for a playfield swap but he would rather not go that route. Playfield swap and color DMD would have pushed the price to at least $9,500.

Kinda bummed/exhausted from the exercise. I see several for sale here on pinside that seem to have nice playfields but I’d have to start over with asking about condition, service, etc.

I’m starting to think I just don’t have the chops to go into used pin purchases informed enough or skilled enough to avoid disasters and money pits of one form or another.

Maybe I should stick to new ones.

#3302 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I'm sorry to hear that but you are probably making the right call as this particular machine is likely overpriced.

$2900 for a color DMD and a playfield swap is a lot of money, and seems a little high to me but may be about right ... the parts are $1300 thats a known amount, the labor is going to vary, but IMO its roughly double what it should be. for $1600 you are paying someone that knows exactly what they are doing $100/hr as this should be no more than a 2 day job; if they are unfamiliar with the machine, it may take them 4 days to do it so $50/hr.
In reality though, if you dropped of a machine with me and provided all the parts, I would charge you $1000 for the job since it would take up my whole weekend and I would have to work 12 days in a row ...

Color DMD $400
https://shop.colordmd.com/colordmd-replacement-display-for-star-trek-the-next-generation-pinball-machine/

New Playfield $1,200
https://mircoplayfields.com/en/p/star-trek-tng-mirco-playfield

At least from these sources.

So they’d be doing the playfield swap with $900 towards labor for a job that they assumed to be 1 man week with normal hours (no overtime) to a level they would be comfortable warranting for 90 days.

And their support actually would include sending a local(ish) repair person to my house if we couldn’t handle it over the phone. I asked. If I was open to throwing $500 more towards labor they would have considered it. But that was a hard sell for me since I was feeling it was overpriced for the current condition.

I have no hard feelings about it. It was the right call for me to pass.

So who here wants to sell me theirs?

#3307 4 years ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Where do you live? Maybe there’d be some local pinhead willing to help. STTNG is a really great game, but you made the right choice. For that price you could have a NIB machine, and a high end one at that. Still though, my STTNG gets way more play than my WOZ. More than my TZ, although it’s always my first love. STTNG is one of the top games I’ve ever owned.
This is the second STTNG I’ve owned. The first one I painstakingly refurbished for my brother in-law and gave it to him as a present (when pinball was still affordable). He kept it for years, but then got mixed up with drugs. As best I know, he sold it and a Roadshow that I let him borrow. Never saw the machines again or him and my sister. I’m not bitter, as his machine gave me the opportunity to learn how awesome a machine it is. Still to this day it’s my wife’s favorite.
Don’t do heroin. Stick to the lesser evils, ha ha. Funny, kinda.

Whoah. That’s quite a burn. Mad respect that you can manage to not be bitter about it.

I’m in NC. I see one in the market place in SC. I might ask about it and maybe do a road trip.

I have zero local friends in the hobby and have only lived here for a couple of months so I’m not in or familiar with any of the groups or anything like that.

Been to a few local barcades, but not when the owners are around.

But I should do a new topic for that rather than hijack this thread anymore.

#3311 4 years ago
Quoted from pzy:

$9500 is less than what HEP wanted for his base STTNG plus restoration services that he's working on right now. Now that might be worth it

Forgive my ignorance.

HEP?

1 week later
#3337 4 years ago

Any place I can get as good quality as (or better than) original rule cards for the apron?

My STNG doesn’t have either of the apron cards.

1 week later
#3409 4 years ago

It arrives today!!! Sometime in the next hour! So excited!!!!!!!!

#3417 4 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Big thanks to play_pinball who not only hooked up a nice set of looms but also some super nice rule cards!

I need me a nice set of rule cards. I have the link to making my own but my printer is blah.

Does anyone know if the JJP Widebody invisiglass will fit this game?

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Accessories/Widebody-Playfield-Invisiglass.html

My glass is more scratched up than I would like and I want to upgrade it.

1 week later
#3460 4 years ago

Replaced my faulty STNG DCS card and the replacement came with Demolition Man ROMS.

Wonder if I could trade the DM roms to someone for some STNG silly ROMS.

#3467 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Nice! Thanks for clarifying. I’m familiar with the Pinsound option, but this is a whole new product for me

I’ll let ya’ll know how well it works.

Installed my pinsound+ last night. My Pin shaker for STNG hasn’t shipped out yet.

#3484 4 years ago

Thinking of getting a set of these art blades for the sides. Anyone got them?

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/star-trek-next-gen-lcars-gameblades

#3495 4 years ago

Bad news, the inrush current limiter blew today.

Good news, I installed the decals while
I had the glass off. Looks nice.
A20BFC08-D639-4EAC-A095-82CC8FAF82FF (resized).jpegA20BFC08-D639-4EAC-A095-82CC8FAF82FF (resized).jpegC10FBC49-071E-4970-808E-6E5508805BAB (resized).jpegC10FBC49-071E-4970-808E-6E5508805BAB (resized).jpeg

#3501 4 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Ah, I have decals to put on yet, did you remove the plastics around the area?

Yes, on the left. On the right parallel to the shooter lane it’s a bit of a pain to get all them off so I tried to get away without it and that was a mistake. I couldn’t get the decal lined up properly in the back but you never see it’s a bit sloppy there unless you are working on the table.

It all looks good from the players perspective.

#3506 4 years ago

Got the LCARS art blades in today... but want to cover the bare wood near the glass with some black paint and let it cure before putting on the blades...

What’s the best kind of paint to use/application method if I don’t want to pull the playfield and all that?
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To be clear, I do plan to lift the playfield. Just don’t want to take it completely out of the machine.

I’m not tough enough.

#3508 4 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

Got the LCARS art blades in today... but want to cover the bare wood near the glass with some black paint and let it cure before putting on the blades...
What’s the best kind of paint to use/application method if I don’t want to pull the playfield and all that?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
To be clear, I do plan to lift the playfield. Just don’t want to take it completely out of the machine.
I’m not tough enough.

Answering my own question about the paint. After some more googling and stuff I found this helpful thread here on pinside that answers my question.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-touch-up-paint-to-match-black-cabinet-and-black-sides-in-pins

#3511 4 years ago

I’ve also been looking for a topper. Gonna attempt to cobble together my own.

I’d like to find a whole new overlay for the speaker portion of the back box. Not just the grills, the whole plastic that goes over the DMD and stuff.

2 months later
#3689 4 years ago

Finally installed my pin sound Motion Control Shaker kit.

I don’t like the default mode. Shakes every time the ball hits a bumper or sling. I’d rather have it be during the modes like ship gets attack or you blow up and asteroid or something.

I’ll have to play with it more.

Anyone here have a pin sound+ and installed a pin sound Motion Control shaker kit? Have you found or made a shaker configuration you like?

#3695 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Have you tried the other settings? There’s a bunch of different options

Yeah. I read that there are other options. But I don’t see in the manual how to switch to them.

I need to carve out some time one night to google it some more.

1 week later
#3720 4 years ago

Finally installed my lcars art blades. Very glad I have pinball side protectors from Pinball Universe when lowering/lifting the playfield.

Also swapped out the old scratched up standard glass for brand new invisaglass.
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7 months later
#4512 3 years ago
Quoted from MrCleanHead:

Thanks! I think I like the dots more than the HiRes version. Im heading out to a friends tomorrow that has all his DMD games with these, he dont have a STTNG. I will ask him what ones are what. But if anyone has the LCD with extra large dots and standard dots or even the LED version to show I would also like to see them as well....Im sure other STTNG owners on the fence would as well.

Excuse my terrible game play. Still learning the layout on this one, but here is a video showing quite a few modes with a ColorDMD.

I have the original DMD in a box for safe keeping/spare but won't be going back.

Keep in mind that if you are not there already, you will need to be running the LX7 ROM.

#4534 3 years ago
Quoted from misterman:

Yesterday morning I went to play a few games and noticed my drop target was stuck in the down position. Did some diagnostics and noticed solenoid 37, 38, 39 and 40 were not working. Checked the coil connections all looked good. Did a little more research and found that fuse f103 protects the 8 driver board I believe which controls those solenoids. Surely enough that fuse was burnt up right in the middle, no continuity with the dmm. Had to drive to the neighboring city to get the proper fuse, popped it in and everything works great again. I'm sure similar issues have been posted before but hopefully this might help someone in the future.

Probably not the most affordable way to do it but I bought a few boxes of fuse kits from Suzo Happ:
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/electrical_supplies/49-0569-00

I went this route because it's next to impossible to source some of these locally in the NC triangle and I am impatient. I rest a lot easier knowing I got plenty on hand.

3 months later
#4753 3 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Curious what everyone is using for art blades? I've seen the ones from retro refurbs, but looking for pics with them on a game. I really like their alt translite.

Am am using the LCARS artblades from Tilt Graphics.

3C4184D0-E620-4C8A-9CB6-5A5DF02A72E0 (resized).jpeg3C4184D0-E620-4C8A-9CB6-5A5DF02A72E0 (resized).jpeg
5 months later
#5631 2 years ago

I keep hoping for a sweet topper to surface that can do this game justice and hold up next to MMRE, AFMR, Munsters, and TMNT. But the current toppers I’ve seen for STNG, while not bad, just wouldn’t look in the same league as those others.

Any of you folks seen a sweet topper for this pin?

1 week later
#5678 2 years ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Restoration of my Sttng. A lot of love and hours
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks very nice.

3 weeks later
#5792 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Anyone interested in my old playfield, some delta quadrant wear around the hole there but fairly sound otherwise, but people use these for all sorts of wall art etc...shoot me a pm if interested....you pay shipping of course...she's dirty...

Got pictures? I may be interested depending on what you want for it/condition.

#5805 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

OK, ok....OK... it's not Pinball related, however it IS Star Trek related. The new Picard Season 2 Teaser with Q dropped today.
Just promoting the Star Trek excitement..

Hype!!!!!

#5833 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

So...we last left the story of my STTNG, it was struggling with 5 switches all on the same switch matrix not responding, and then I lost the ability to use the control/settings buttons in the coin door. I removed the board with U20 switch driver chip to have it checked by a tech. The tech said this board and the others should be re-pinned. I decided to install a spare coin door I had on hand with control buttons to see if that fixed the control button issue. I also put the original board back in (without re-pinning anything) and now everything works 100%. No credit dot. All switches returned and the coin door buttons work perfectly. So what happened?
[quoted image]

It’s possible that removing and reseating the cables did the trick. One of more of them might not have been making a good connection or could have a short somewhere.

4 months later
#6704 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

My question, and I believe it's been mentioned by others is how achievable would anything be in the video mode if it's completely random? You don't want the mode to run too long after all.

What if there were 3-4 variations and it randomly picked one each time you selected it?

Not truly random, but at least some variety.

I kinda like it being static as I can get better at it over time. I think it’d be too fast if truly random (or maybe the color DMD just has lag).

1 year later
#8955 11 months ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

yes, this is the actual issue. If you get the shaker, you absolutely NEED to learn how to build your own shaker profile, or you'll hate it.

Anybody got a good custom profile?

I haven’t gotten around to building one in two years, so I just have the shaker disabled.

7 months later
#9713 4 months ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

PINSOUND FIRMWARE UPDATE:
The newly posted 11-17-2023 PinSound Firmware is a good release, and resolves all issues resulting from the Oct. 30th version.
If you've previously installed that version, and were frustrated, this is your solution. Enjoy.
[quoted image]

Wow, lol. I got lucky I guess. Yesterday I decided to try to make my own custom shaker settings for STNG and while I was at it I updated the pinsound to the latest version.

1 month later
#9787 81 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

For those of you considering "adding" a shaker motor to your STTNG pin, the PinSound solution is very good. HOWEVER it will require you to learn and make your own shaker profile.
Yes, you can use the stock settings, however it's way too much, too often and I hated it. I don't need to "feel" a ball launch, and every other moment too. YUCK.
Here is a new video from Pinsound, on the process. Enjoy:

I made my own shaker config tuned to very specific modes and events (like blowing up asteroids, warp animations, ship crashes, taking damage, and jackpots).

I went with a less is more and should enhance specific moments approach. Dialed down the power a lot. I’ve played through the entire game with it and I’m really really happy with it.

Borg Multiball is WILD now.

I gotta get around to learning how to upload it to their community page thing.

That said, happy to share my config with anyone that wants it.

Next I plan to replace my last few GI bulbs with LEDs so I can install my LED OCD GI kit and get the shields dimming on damage.

3 weeks later
#9997 60 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Thanks for this.
And yeah I get what you mean on pop bumper shaker trigger - that seems like you said a poor choice.
So you felt the shaker wasn't worth it in STTNG, interesting.

The out of the box shaker options are overkill and detract from the game.

I made my own custom shaker config and I could not be happier. Feels to me like it was always meant to be there.

#10035 53 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

I assume this is via the pinsound kit

Yes and using their Pinsound Studio Pro App on windows.

#10065 50 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Instead of Lx-7, go for Lx-8! Or wait a couple more weeks and you can run LX-9.

Ohhhhh, boy!

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