Quoted from Baggerman:

Make sure your pitch is correct, wax the ramps.
Bags.[quoted image]

Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

No, it's a company called ADF Freight Delivery or something. And btw, I paid close to $900 to CT for "shipping" so you'd think they might wanna make sure they follow up and confirm that their client receives this very expensive game. Sigh. Definitely will order through NITRO PINBALL next time, my bad.

Quoted from c818919taylor:

Paid 9/21 in full. Still no word.

Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I realize this isn't anyone's concern, but I assume there are others like myself dealing with the immense ineptitude (aka terrible customer service) from COINTAKER, as I put my deposit down for a LV back in December 2021. In late June 2022, Melissa sent me the full invoice and I paid it the same day!
After several short emails from COINTAKER stating that it's "at the port" or "coming soon" with very little extra info or God forbid if they actually reply to any of my follow-up questions (I mean, why bother emailing back someone who just bought a $12,000+ product from you), I was told that it has finally arrived and I should prep to receive it at my home on September 6th between 8am-6pm.
OF COURSE it never showed up and nobody ever followed up either.
I called the freight service last week, they said they "thought" it was still in the USA (I'm in Canada) and that someone would call me back.
Nobody ever did.
I called again today and they said the same thing.
I don't want to contact COINTAKER because they are literally the worst company that I've dealt with over the pandemic (and that's saying something!) so I'm leaving that as my last option, but I'm hoping others are in the same boat as me (maybe literally as well) and may have some suggestions for me?
Miffed in Montreal.

Quoted from c818919taylor:

Paid 9/21 in full. Still no word.
An extra $900 on top of the $400 paid already?

Quoted from Lamberger:

A friend got hit with $1095 u.s for shipping from nitro last week.

Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I don't understand this. Did you pay in full at the same time as your deposit, or were you invoiced for the full amount on that date? If the latter, I would be full nuclear until I got a game or a refund, considering how many people have received games since you paid in full. I'm quickly approaching that point and haven't been in even a fraction of your time.

Quoted from EDUB919:

Contacted PB’s social media team. Hopefully between them and CT they can figure out why I haven’t received a product after paying for it 8 weeks ago.

Quoted from c818919taylor:

Or a year…. Cause yes. I did say paid in full 9/21

Quoted from c818919taylor:

Or a year…. Cause yes. I did say paid in full 9/21

Quoted from Utesichiban:

You paid 12k for it in June and haven’t received it yet but don’t want to pick up the phone to call Cointaker to figure out where it is? I’d be calling every day (not emailing) but that is me. I can also tell you that Melissa is a lot better at picking up and returning phone calls then email or text. Call and I bet you have it figured out by the end of the day.

Quoted from Coyohtay:

We have always been a little dissappointed that the white inserts that replaced the screen were aestetically off from the rest of the artwork when lit, so I got some gel filters (from Amazon) for lights & added them under the playfield. I used 2 layers of the gels to deepen the color. I also spaced that board away from the playfield to make room for the gels and the glue. Much improved!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Audioenslaved:

Is there a way to increase/decrease the sensitivity of the inductive switches? The left loop seems to miss picking the ball up

Quoted from Mageek:

Have you tried turning up the coil strength on the up posts?

Quoted from twenty84:

My LV arrived this week. Decals and had fallen off the apron during shipping and some of the cabinet hardware was loose due to wood screws being over tightened and stripped out at the factory. The game itself was pretty much dead on arrival as gets stuck this volume adjusting screen. I reached out to tech support and they wanted me to check the fuses and connectors which I did but this hasn't fixed anything. Has been a very disappointing NIB experience so far. Any ideas on how to make this into a playable game?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Coyohtay:

We have always been a little dissappointed that the white inserts that replaced the screen were aestetically off from the rest of the artwork when lit, so I got some gel filters (from Amazon) for lights & added them under the playfield. I used 2 layers of the gels to deepen the color. I also spaced that board away from the playfield to make room for the gels and the glue. Much improved!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from twenty84:

My LV arrived this week. Decals and had fallen off the apron during shipping and some of the cabinet hardware was loose due to wood screws being over tightened and stripped out at the factory. The game itself was pretty much dead on arrival as gets stuck this volume adjusting screen. I reached out to tech support and they wanted me to check the fuses and connectors which I did but this hasn't fixed anything. Has been a very disappointing NIB experience so far. Any ideas on how to make this into a playable game?
[quoted image]

Quoted from tatman9999:

Dumb question. I downloaded the code to a usb. Do I put the usb in the back box? With game off and then turn on? I am still on 2.4 and have not updated yet.

Quoted from mitchzizzle:

Oh man that looks way better! Was just gonna have a relaxing saturday but now Ive gotta do this. Thanks for the great idea!

Quoted from kciaccio:

Wow, that is disappointing for sure.
The only time I had a lock up problem like that on volume they had to replace my under playfield controller.

Quoted from mitchzizzle:

Sorry to see this :/ right out of the box try reseating all the cable connextions to the black box on the PF bottom, and also tip the hwad forward and reseat the cable going to the computer in the backbox. See if that gets it turning on?

Quoted from twenty84:

I tried reseating everything. I really think the issue goes beyond that.
I suspect the issue on the mine was that box below the playfield were the fuses are. The fuse holders seem to be junk. They told me to check all the fuses (they were all good) and move them around (I did that). There is a little light near each one and the center one the light doesn't always go on even thought the fuse is good and I've tried multiple fuses in this position. Last night I tried holding it in. With that I heard a big pop, flash and got a shock. It made no difference in terms of how the game started up. I thought maybe I at least blew the fuse but that was still good.
Also on my game there were 5 connectors like these shown below that were not connected under the playfield even a cable that fits on them was nearby. My game doesn't boot if they are connected or not, but I wonder if anyone has any insight on if these were supposed to be connected. The boards also seem to have a lot of connectors that aren't used. Is this normal?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from twenty84:

My LV arrived this week. Decals and had fallen off the apron during shipping and some of the cabinet hardware was loose due to wood screws being over tightened and stripped out at the factory. The game itself was pretty much dead on arrival as gets stuck this volume adjusting screen. I reached out to tech support and they wanted me to check the fuses and connectors which I did but this hasn't fixed anything. Has been a very disappointing NIB experience so far. Any ideas on how to make this into a playable game?
[quoted image]

Quoted from mbrave77:

So this is what happened to my SV after about 20 games. My game was down well over a month. Checking fuses did nothing. They shipped me multiple new computer boxes which did nothing. Finally after a long while they got in two new brand new boxes, play tested them for a while to confirm they work, then sent those at to me and I was back up and running. Probably going to be same deal for you.
If it werent for these issues I had I wouldve been on the Queen pre order list. Their response time is great(thanks Shawn) but I just dont have a ton of confidence that these games will hold up
Good luck!

Quoted from Zablon:

Here's a quick game I played this morning and quick video'd. Managed to hit all the major multiball triggers for the apron/beacon. I am not really sure why my colors are so washed out.

Quoted from ChipScott:

Thx for making that video, looks freakin amazing!!!
One thing I noticed, and certainly I'm not bothered by change, but when you started Queen's Nest mode I saw you look up to the beacons, but alas, no beacon flashing (I think you even took a double take, lol).
One thing about the OG alien was that there was fairly limited use of the beacons, so its really great to see this apron mod group using it in more ways throughout gameplay!!
Queen's nest was one of the few times it was used historically, (I believe that mode and self-destruct, maybe others? I can't fully recall).
Anyway, this mod looks so awesome, and it's great to see it in action.
Thanks again for making that vid and post!

Quoted from Zablon:

Here's a quick game I played this morning and quick video'd. Managed to hit all the major multiball triggers for the apron/beacon. I am not really sure why my colors are so washed out.

Quoted from Zablon:

Here's a quick game I played this morning and quick video'd. Managed to hit all the major multiball triggers for the apron/beacon. I am not really sure why my colors are so washed out.

Quoted from moat-pin:

Tunnel Hunt- the “2” shot never seems to register- it’s the middle left flipper shot to right mini lane/orbit back to your right flipper right? It’s the the target there. Does it HAVE to be a shot from that left flipper or will lucky bounce register? I feel like 95% of time I fail not getting that one and wondering if it’s not registering properly….

Quoted from BlueRiverLore:

"In the face of overwhelming odds, I'm left with only one option. I'm gonna have to science the shit out of this."
Driving LED lights with a USB port
*** USB Power Output ***
The original USB 1.0 spec (and the updated 1.1) allowed devices to draw up to 500mA from the port. USB operates at 5V, so that means a maximum of 2.5 watts.
USB 2.0 has the same power limit. But later there were add-ons to the spec for battery charging, allowing up to 1.5A (7.5W) while data transfer is going on, and up to 5A if not. Few USB 2.0 devices can deliver that much power. Also note that the Micro USB connector is only rated to carry 2.1A (10.5W), so that’s the maximum charge rate for a phone that uses 5V charging.
USB 3.0 increases the power limit to 900mA (4.5W). The battery charging spec from USB 2.0 can optionally be supported.
The latest thing is USB-PD (USB Power Delivery), which can offer a LOT more power. USB-PD can deliver up to 100 watts, with four supported voltages: 5V at 3A (15W), 9V at 3A (27W), 15V at 3A (45W), and 20V at 5A (100W), all while also simultaneously transferring data. (The data lines stay at their normal voltage regardless of the charging voltage.) The voltage and amperage are negotiated between devices; many devices don’t support the maximum voltage or amperage.
There are also some methods for delivering more power over a USB port that are not part of the USB specification. The most popular is Qualcomm Quick Charge; it uses a higher charging voltage to allow more power to be carried. The most recent versions of QC can deliver 18W to a Micro USB port or 27W to a USB-C port. Quick Charge is purely for charging devices; the standard does not allow data transmission to happen concurrently, and I don’t know of any computers that implement it.
*** Converting Amps to Watts ***
The formula for converting amps to watts (at a fixed voltage) is watts = amps × volts. To convert amps to watts you multiply your amps figure by the voltage.
*** LED Power Consumption ***
An average LED strip light consumes roughly 7 to 35 watts. This wattage is highly dependent on the specific product, as more energy-conscious strip lights require very little electricity while bright, fully-featured lights can use almost as much electricity as a conventional bulb.
The first step is to check the data sheet of the LED strip you intend to use. It should show you the power consumption in Watts per Metre. Usually it will be displayed in the format of 14W / m (14 Watts / Meter).
The second step is to work out the length of strip that you are going to use in meters and multiply this number by the number of Watts used per meter.
Let’s say you are using 8.5m of LED strip. The LED strip has a power consumption of 14W / m.
14 x 8.5 = 119 Watts in total. So you need a LED power supply (sometimes referred to as a LED driver) that can deliver at least 119 Watts.
However, it is recommended that you make allowances for unintentional overloads. To mitigate this we recommend that you only use about 80% of the rated load of the power supply. So, in this instance you would most likely select a 150 Watt power supply.
*** Conclusion ***
If you are using USB 2 it will provide a MAX wattage of 25 watts (5 volts x 5 amps)
If your load (LED strips) is greater than 25 watts then either the LEDs will be dim or may not light at all

Quoted from DVDA:

four coats of krylon crystal clear and this thing is glossy. Not sure how much the pictures do it justice but let me know what you think. (before and after)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DVDA:

four coats of krylon crystal clear and this thing is glossy. Not sure how much the pictures do it justice but let me know what you think. (before and after)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from twenty84:

Also on my game there were 5 connectors like these shown below that were not connected under the playfield even a cable that fits on them was nearby. My game doesn't boot if they are connected or not, but I wonder if anyone has any insight on if these were supposed to be connected. The boards also seem to have a lot of connectors that aren't used. Is this normal?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from lowbeau67:

Received my sv last week. Everything seemed ok but I quickly realized the game wouldn't recognize drains and advance past ball 1.
Put in a ticket. Quick responses.
Took pics of led board by trough
in different stages of game and sent to support.
Told me to get new balls ..mine were probably magnetized.
Seemed strange to happen so quick. Went ahead and ordered some Polaris and more ninjas .
Those should get here next week.
So tonight I found 6 new balls I didn't know I had and threw those in. Didn't help.
Then I watched the balls drain and noticed there was always a ball at the very left of trough and drained ball hopped in front of it.
So here are some pics and videos showing

[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
So fixed the problem.
The trough rails just needed
Bent some.
Hope this helps anyone that runs into same problem
Also my game was dead level.
I checked that before tweaking rails.

Quoted from twenty84:

I tried reseating everything. I really think the issue goes beyond that.
I suspect the issue on the mine was that box below the playfield were the fuses are. The fuse holders seem to be junk. They told me to check all the fuses (they were all good) and move them around (I did that). There is a little light near each one and the center one the light doesn't always go on even thought the fuse is good and I've tried multiple fuses in this position. Last night I tried holding it in. With that I heard a big pop, flash and got a shock. It made no difference in terms of how the game started up. I thought maybe I at least blew the fuse but that was still good.
Also on my game there were 5 connectors like these shown below that were not connected under the playfield even a cable that fits on them was nearby. My game doesn't boot if they are connected or not, but I wonder if anyone has any insight on if these were supposed to be connected. The boards also seem to have a lot of connectors that aren't used. Is this normal?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]