Quoted from supershadow25:little video of my Alien LE
That is a beautiful example! The face hugger on the top is terrifying, think I need that prop for sure!
Quoted from supershadow25:little video of my Alien LE
That is a beautiful example! The face hugger on the top is terrifying, think I need that prop for sure!
Quoted from argon:All of the issues I had with the targets were fixed by adding 3D printed spacers. Those problems were mostly related to lateral movement of the target. For example, the targets under the xeno would move a bit and get in the way of the jaw and the weapon target 5 would move and get in the way of the orbit.
I had a suspicion that off-center hits would not always register.
I pulled a 3D printed spacer for the weapons targets off of thingiverse, so thanks to the person who came up with this idea and posted it. I then made my own for the xeno targets.
But never wanting to leave well enough alone, and given the attempts on here to use leaf switches, I thought I would give it a try.
I made two franken-targets.
The first was removing the tact switch from the pcb and basically putting in a leaf switch. The trick with that one is to get the foam on the pcb to the correct thickness so it doesn't push the leaf switch closed when it is at rest. Then the top edge of the plastic target was hitting the top of the metal plate because the foam on the pcb is not thick enough to stop it. So I added some additional padding to the metal post.
[quoted image]
This is in my machine and works well.
The second prototype was to take one of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/anti-sway-1-x-58-frosted-3ddeep-rectangular-stand-up-target-assembly.html
and make it fit.
This required grinding off some of the rear bent rigidity bend in the metal post so it could fit in the playfield hole. Then I just wired the leaf switch to the pcb and left it hanging off the side. This means there is no LED in this one, but it works great with all the original motion and pads and anti-sway intact.
[quoted image]
While this is subjective, in the first game I played with these in place I seemed to immediately get those two weapons with more glancing blows.
So my next steps on these will be on the first one, to grind down about 1mm off the top of the metal back post so that the plastic of the target doesn't hit it and it does not need that second pad.
And on the second one, I am considering printing my own PCB that will fit in it and bring back the LED. I would add thru-hole pads to solder wires for the leaf switch and add the connector. For the second type, the existing PCB is too wide on one side to fit in the stack.
This is what bugs me about manufacturers. You know they supposedly play tested these things, and had to have seen the same issues, but they send them out anyway, AND, while they did send out 2 newer versions, they are only marginally better. So either, they didn't play test them nearly at all, or they did and said, whatever, once it's out the door it's on the people who already spent the money. (this goes for all manufacturers, not just PB). It doesn't take a genius to realize that this design would not hold up to repeated hits, and only a week of good testing would have shown this before any ever went out. They are on their 3rd iteration of this game and STILL haven't made a real design change on these problematic targets.
That being said, overall, v3's work mostly fine....although I swapped back to the v1 brackets because the v3 brackets were bent strangely that made them worse. I have not done the 3d print holders yet (recently bought one so I might give them a shot). I just let them lean to where they want to go and play.
Due the screws at the lock bar need to stay in every time you lower the playfield? Or are they just for shipping purpose? I removed the foam block that was in the back of the pin.
Quick game and I think I need to adjust the sling switches. They are quite far apart. Only a decent bounce activated them.
IMG_9469 (resized).jpegIMG_9470 (resized).jpegYeah those slings are on easy mode, I'd tighten them up a bit. The screws don't need to stay in.
I'll jump on the where are the toppers bandwagon. The two week timeline and lack of update is not great.
The playfield moves weirdly during nudging without the screws.
It doesn't fit as tightly as other machines.
Try it both ways and you'll see what i mean.
Quoted from punkin:The playfield moves weirdly during nudging without the screws.
OK, I will just keep them in, not hurting anything by keeping them installed, just takes a few moments to unscrew them anyway.
Quoted from Chalkey:I'd tighten them up a bit.
Did just that, not a little hit causes total chaos, love it!
Now to learn how to update this game to the latest code and see how to add headphones if possible. I didn't notice a dongle at the coindoor or wifi access like JJP or Stern in the menu.
Quick question, is the playfield glass the standard wide body Bally/ Williams size? I was going to order some invisglass for it but wasn’t sure.
Thank you,
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Quick question, is the playfield glass the standard wide body Bally/ Williams size? I was going to order some invisglass for it but wasn’t sure.
Thank you,
The glass on my first run is of the best quality with sanded edges ,it really does not need voodoo but it can’t hurt and yes standard wide body.
And I do have voodoo on my game but little difference compared with the standard glass if it’s like mine with sanded edges.
Hello everyone,
I noticed yesterday that apparently my shaker (I have the LE version, therefore with shaker) is not working. I don't notice the shaker either when I turn it on or in the game itself. Even in the test menu I get no sound/move from the shaker. I'm not quite sure if I understand the test menu correctly, but I should be able to test the shaker with the Start or Lunch button, right?
How else could I test the shaker? Can I test it "offline" somehow and see if the shaker itself is defective or the control is not working?
I have version 4.0 on it, otherwise no problems.
Any good tips?
Best regards, Marco
Quoted from argon:All of the issues I had with the targets were fixed by adding 3D printed spacers. Those problems were mostly related to lateral movement of the target. For example, the targets under the xeno would move a bit and get in the way of the jaw and the weapon target 5 would move and get in the way of the orbit.
I had a suspicion that off-center hits would not always register.
I pulled a 3D printed spacer for the weapons targets off of thingiverse, so thanks to the person who came up with this idea and posted it. I then made my own for the xeno targets.
But never wanting to leave well enough alone, and given the attempts on here to use leaf switches, I thought I would give it a try.
I made two franken-targets.
The first was removing the tact switch from the pcb and basically putting in a leaf switch. The trick with that one is to get the foam on the pcb to the correct thickness so it doesn't push the leaf switch closed when it is at rest. Then the top edge of the plastic target was hitting the top of the metal plate because the foam on the pcb is not thick enough to stop it. So I added some additional padding to the metal post.
[quoted image]
This is in my machine and works well.
The second prototype was to take one of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/anti-sway-1-x-58-frosted-3ddeep-rectangular-stand-up-target-assembly.html
and make it fit.
This required grinding off some of the rear bent rigidity bend in the metal post so it could fit in the playfield hole. Then I just wired the leaf switch to the pcb and left it hanging off the side. This means there is no LED in this one, but it works great with all the original motion and pads and anti-sway intact.
[quoted image]
While this is subjective, in the first game I played with these in place I seemed to immediately get those two weapons with more glancing blows.
So my next steps on these will be on the first one, to grind down about 1mm off the top of the metal back post so that the plastic of the target doesn't hit it and it does not need that second pad.
And on the second one, I am considering printing my own PCB that will fit in it and bring back the LED. I would add thru-hole pads to solder wires for the leaf switch and add the connector. For the second type, the existing PCB is too wide on one side to fit in the stack.
Here is the golden oppertunity for a mod maker to score some mad loot... Offer up a replacement leaf switch option where the LED lighting and look remains in tact...you would clean up. I just rebuilt 5 or so target and xeno targets with new switches..
Quoted from supershadow25:Hello everyone,
I noticed yesterday that apparently my shaker (I have the LE version, therefore with shaker) is not working. I don't notice the shaker either when I turn it on or in the game itself. Even in the test menu I get no sound/move from the shaker. I'm not quite sure if I understand the test menu correctly, but I should be able to test the shaker with the Start or Lunch button, right?
How else could I test the shaker? Can I test it "offline" somehow and see if the shaker itself is defective or the control is not working?
I have version 4.0 on it, otherwise no problems.
Any good tips?
Best regards, Marco
The shaker shakes every time you boot up the game. I’d check the shaker harness to see if any connectors became unplugged at any point. If not open up a ticket with pinball brothers.
Quoted from Baggerman:Here is the golden oppertunity for a mod maker to score some mad loot... Offer up a replacement leaf switch option where the LED lighting and look remains in tact...you would clean up. I just rebuilt 5 or so target and xeno targets with new switches..
I agree. More robust targets would be a big seller. I'd buy them for sure.
Quoted from punkin:The playfield moves weirdly during nudging without the screws.
It doesn't fit as tightly as other machines.
Try it both ways and you'll see what i mean.
I have not experienced this myself..
Quoted from rockrand:And I do have voodoo on my game but little difference compared with the standard glass if it’s like mine with sanded edges.
Are you saying you think Voodoo glass is about the same as standard glass? Sorry, but id disagree with that big time. I have voodoo glass on my other machines and its awesome.
Quoted from Baggerman:Here is the golden oppertunity for a mod maker to score some mad loot... Offer up a replacement leaf switch option where the LED lighting and look remains in tact...you would clean up. I just rebuilt 5 or so target and xeno targets with new switches..
I agree. I have no interest to do this myself, but would most likely pay for them if its reasonable.
Quoted from Optimiser:Check this as I had the same problem.
System-Adj 39, 2-stage flippers NO
Actions-Pre-Sets-SV Edition and LV Edition must not be installed.
Shaker is all good now.
So you have to turn off the 2-stage flippers in order for the shaker to work?
Am I understanding that correctly?
Quoted from Rager170:Are you saying you think Voodoo glass is about the same as standard glass? Sorry, but id disagree with that big time. I have voodoo glass on my other machines and its awesome.
I've said it before, but whatever glass they are using on Alien is way better than normal glass. It might not be a form of invisiglass, but it is pretty good, and I don't think changing it is necessary on this game.
Quoted from Zablon:I've said it before, but whatever glass they are using on Alien is way better than normal glass. It might not be a form of invisiglass, but it is pretty good, and I don't think changing it is necessary on this game.
As someone who has invisiglass on all my games, I agree. Not sure what they are using but it's adequate. I just can't find a voodoo stamp or invisiglass stamp on the glass for Alien LV anywhere. I thought they said the LV got invisiglass and the Ripley no correct?
Cool topper idea if it wasn't so expensive.
https://www.facebook.com/share/B5EvFr5nLoyJDbtF/?mibextid=kL3p88
Screenshot_20240312_144040_Facebook (resized).jpgQuoted from kciaccio:Cool topper idea if it wasn't so expensive.
https://www.facebook.com/share/B5EvFr5nLoyJDbtF/?mibextid=kL3p88[quoted image]
You can pickup a recast of the 1 to 1 scale life size bust alien warrior by sideshow for about 1k shipped. Has the real chromed teeth as well. There are a few on eBay right now.
IMG_4519 (resized).pngQuoted from Meadows22:You can pickup a recast of the 1 to 1 scale life size bust alien warrior by sideshow for about 1k shipped. There are a few on eBay. Has the real chromed teeth as well.
So happy to see more people getting RVs and playing this superb game!
Just wondered if anyone had received a topper yet?
Similarly, I ordered a Lior mini-screen sculpt and a loader translite about a week ago from the Pinball Bros USA sales site. Anyone know how long they take to ship.
Quoted from Ceemunkey:Just wondered if anyone had received a topper yet?
I ordered and received my Ripley alien from
PMP amusement off pinside. Love it and great communication throughout the transaction. They will be working with pinball brothers for Texas pinball and hopefully when they get home they expect the toppers and flasher kits to be waiting on them. To me this sounds like the items have shipped, just waiting on the ship to come in.
I know when I imported a classic mini cooper from the UK, it took more time to get
Off the docks then to cross the Atlantic. We will see.
Quoted from John_C:So you have to turn off the 2-stage flippers in order for the shaker to work?
Am I understanding that correctly?
Sorry my mistake. Shouldn't of included that.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:Similarly, I ordered a Lior mini-screen sculpt and a loader translite about a week ago from the Pinball Bros USA sales site. Anyone know how long they take to ship.
Mini screen, Xeno head and flashers for me-ordered 4-5 weeks ago and nothing yet.
Quoted from Rager170:Are you saying you think Voodoo glass is about the same as standard glass? Sorry, but id disagree with that big time. I have voodoo glass on my other machines and its awesome.
He’s saying he doesn’t notice much difference between standard and vodoo glass on his Alien. He did mot say it’s no better than standard glass in general. Don’t put words into his mouth.
So what’s the consensus on the new code??? Safe to install? No common bugs?
If it unlocks the topper integration and features I’ll want to have it ready to go for when (if???) the topper comes.
Quoted from LeMansFan:So what’s the consensus on the new code??? Safe to install? No common bugs?
If it unlocks the topper integration and features I’ll want to have it ready to go for when (if???) the topper comes.
I've played many games on the new code and I haven't had any issues.
Quoted from Zablon:I've said it before, but whatever glass they are using on Alien is way better than normal glass. It might not be a form of invisiglass, but it is pretty good, and I don't think changing it is necessary on this game.
Interesting. I have an LV so it comes with Anti Glare glass, so I cant judge...
First I have heard on this with Alien.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:He’s saying he doesn’t notice much difference between standard and vodoo glass on his Alien. He did mot say it’s no better than standard glass in general. Don’t put words into his mouth.
Easy captain. Im not putting words in anyones mouth. From the lack of details in that post, it sounded like he was simply saying there wasnt a difference between standard and Voodoo. Which is far different from my experiences with standard glass vs. voodoo..
Did you actually get triggered by what I wrote? Little testy there at the end of your comment lol.
Quoted from Rager170:Interesting. I have an LV so it comes with Anti Glare glass, so I cant judge...
First I have heard on this with Alien.
Well, to be honest, I have one of the early early SV games....for all I know, they put invisiglass on them by mistake or something. It's pretty much a given lots of part changes happened during COVID and later, but we had discussed it back then.
Quoted from Zablon:Well, to be honest, I have one of the early early SV games....for all I know, they put invisiglass on them by mistake or something. It's pretty much a given lots of part changes happened during COVID and later, but we had discussed it back then.
Gotcha.. Interesting to know. I just got my machine back in September so I didnt read too much further back than that.
Quoted from Bmanpin:Mini screen, Xeno head and flashers for me-ordered 4-5 weeks ago and nothing yet.
Received the mini flasher set today. Can't wait to install it. Already received the beacons and shaker, so just waiting on the topper now.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Received the mini flasher set today. Can't wait to install it. Already received the beacons and shaker, so just waiting on the topper now.
Nice! I've already received and installed my shaker and beacons, and am just waiting on the mini flasher. You are first I've seen here confirm delivery. Hopefully mine is enroute! For the shaker I got a USPS notification, for the beacons I got nothing. Did you receive any shipping notice?
FYI - had an issue with my left facehugger mech on my Ripley version built January 2024. The hinge bolt under the playfield had broken off leaving the facehugger to be less of his normal energetic self. In fact, he’d lean over the sling interfering with the ball. Submitted a ticket to PB who were awesome and immediately mailed me a replacement bracket. Looking at the new bracket, I think there may be an issue over the long term. On the new bracket, the hinge bolt is secured with 1 maybe 2 beads of solder that only covers about 1/4 of the surface. I think this could break off over time. So, after I teach myself how to solder (where’s a Radio Shack when you need one?), I will add more to this bolt and the other bracket as well. My quick fix was to add a nut and bolt to hold the mech in place (good, may loosen itself over time; maybe not a loctite app). Hope someone finds this useful. Don’t hesitate to reach out to PB; just phenomenal support.
IMG_1752 (resized).jpegIMG_1755 (resized).jpegQuoted from Harvester:FYI - had an issue with my left facehugger mech on my Ripley version built January 2024. The hinge bolt under the playfield had broken off leaving the facehugger to be less of his normal energetic self. In fact, he’d lean over the sling interfering with the ball. Submitted a ticket to PB who were awesome and immediately mailed me a replacement bracket. Looking at the new bracket, I think there may be an issue over the long term. On the new bracket, the hinge bolt is secured with 1 maybe 2 beads of solder that only covers about 1/4 of the surface. I think this could break off over time. So, after I teach myself how to solder (where’s a Radio Shack when you need one?), I will add more to this bolt and the other bracket as well. My quick fix was to add a nut and bolt to hold the mech in place (good, may loosen itself over time; maybe not a loctite app). Hope someone finds this useful. Don’t hesitate to reach out to PB; just phenomenal support.
[quoted image][quoted image]
be glad ...radio shack soldering irons were crap....spend the money and get a decent one....
Having the upper right flipper start flipping intermittently after a few games. Normally I would think this is a physical issue all day but a reboot seems to fix it. Anybody else seeing anything like this?
Quoted from Harvester:FYI - had an issue with my left facehugger mech on my Ripley version built January 2024. The hinge bolt under the playfield had broken off leaving the facehugger to be less of his normal energetic self. In fact, he’d lean over the sling interfering with the ball. Submitted a ticket to PB who were awesome and immediately mailed me a replacement bracket. Looking at the new bracket, I think there may be an issue over the long term. On the new bracket, the hinge bolt is secured with 1 maybe 2 beads of solder that only covers about 1/4 of the surface. I think this could break off over time. So, after I teach myself how to solder (where’s a Radio Shack when you need one?), I will add more to this bolt and the other bracket as well. My quick fix was to add a nut and bolt to hold the mech in place (good, may loosen itself over time; maybe not a loctite app). Hope someone finds this useful. Don’t hesitate to reach out to PB; just phenomenal support.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Glad to see this fixed. I had the same issue on my Ripley, but the fix was a new bracket from PB. They quickly diagnosed and sent a new one to me.
Okay, please be patient with me for I am not a smart man.
My Alien LV has one owner before me, HUO and modded out. He tells me there's a backbox mod which consists of some wiring and a circuit board. From what I gather this is to be used with a different translite, correct? If so, where in the heck does one obtain such a thing? I can't say I've ever seen it offered or posted for sale.
Yes I'm late to the party, sorry!
Quoted from Harvester:FYI - had an issue with my left facehugger mech on my Ripley version built January 2024. The hinge bolt under the playfield had broken off leaving the facehugger to be less of his normal energetic self. In fact, he’d lean over the sling interfering with the ball. Submitted a ticket to PB who were awesome and immediately mailed me a replacement bracket. Looking at the new bracket, I think there may be an issue over the long term. On the new bracket, the hinge bolt is secured with 1 maybe 2 beads of solder that only covers about 1/4 of the surface. I think this could break off over time. So, after I teach myself how to solder (where’s a Radio Shack when you need one?), I will add more to this bolt and the other bracket as well. My quick fix was to add a nut and bolt to hold the mech in place (good, may loosen itself over time; maybe not a loctite app). Hope someone finds this useful. Don’t hesitate to reach out to PB; just phenomenal support.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Same problem, except mine was the right hand sling. The facehugger hung so low the ball would hit it and I was afraid it would eventually cause one of the legs to snap off. I found the one screw that you had pictured, but I never could find the nut that would secure it.
I had to rig mine in a jiffy, so I just took a heavy duty zip tie to it and attached it and its working great until I can find the proper nut to attach it.
Quoted from Indypin:Same problem, except mine was the right hand sling. The facehugger hung so low the ball would hit it and I was afraid it would eventually cause one of the legs to snap off. I found the one screw that you had pictured, but I never could find the nut that would secure it.
I had to rig mine in a jiffy, so I just took a heavy duty zip tie to it and attached it and its working great until I can find the proper nut to attach it.
That’s the thing, there is no nut to hold the hinge bolt in place. One end of the hinge bolt is soldered to the bracket. A retaining clip is used to hold the facehugger mech flange on the hinge bolt. So, is your bolt popped off, it’s likely the solder weld broke. Brilliant use of a zip tie
Quoted from Merendino:Okay, please be patient with me for I am not a smart man.
My Alien LV has one owner before me, HUO and modded out. He tells me there's a backbox mod which consists of some wiring and a circuit board. From what I gather this is to be used with a different translite, correct? If so, where in the heck does one obtain such a thing? I can't say I've ever seen it offered or posted for sale.
Yes I'm late to the party, sorry!
It sounds like it might be the Evolution Mods Translight mod? And if so, then yes, its for a different translite. I would have imagined that it came with you machine if he is mentioning it.
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