Did Spooky tell you they were using a new company? I hope that is true because the original one is questionable at best. They weren't prepping the metal correctly and under cooking the powder.

They had changed the way the powder coating was being done a little over halfway through the run. There is a noticeable difference in powder coating color and finish on the newer coatings.

Not really. It was same questional powder coater. Spooky was getting them from the powder coater and then clearcoating them in house in gloss. That was failing in the field. They then switched to a 2 part automotive clear coat but could only source satin. That is when the appearance changed. It was still the same crappie powder coat, just sealed better.

ah misunderstood then

I've got the replacement armor and it still looks perfect. Game has a ton of plays I wouldn't clear it unless you like wasting money,time and enjoy inhaling caustic chemicals.

It was way to rough for my taste. I clear coated mine and looks waaaay better and feels waaay better and has extra protection.

The question was if it was needed. Definitely worth it if you're looking to upgrade.

If you get the super jackpot in a main playfield mode, you can't trigger it again? I know you can restart the modes later on if you didn't "complete" them.

Had a long game where I had gotten House and I believe Sanitarium supers, and then was in Death in the Driver's seat mode. Only issue was the Death in Driver's Seat mode pretty much is only thing on and that could be scored. Sanitarium could not start, balls just reject from that scoop, and the house no matter how many times you hit it, would not start, normally you could stack these with a pumpkin mode which was running.

Was frustrating as had only 2 shots available the entire time, which for the life of me I could not hit cause of course that's how it is. Since the mode is apparently not timed it would never end, and I also could not score. literally 4 mins of smacking the ball around the game scoring nothing cause nothing is on at this point in the game, so my choice is to make the only two lit shots, which just my luck I could not friggin hit (left orbit shot ugh).

So was I locked out of starting other modes cause I had gotten supers? Just frustrating that the pumpkin mode had locked out the entire game at that point so was just a ton of game time spent scoring no points.

Yep to get those Multiballs back you would need to get the super on hedge. Boogeyman would be lit and after that the multiballs will reset.
I’ve made suggestions that it shouldn’t lock out and just have a harder progression for the next one, if super has been collected.

Yea this was the problem, I was stuck then with a single hedge shot to make to start that mode, and one shot left on the pumpkin mode. So a total of two whole shots only available to make as I plunk away missing and scoring no points from everything else.

Probably unpopular, but shouldn't the pumpkin modes perhaps have a timer like the other main PF modes do? Yea I should make the shot to progress the mode but when i'm failing to hit, it's freaking annoying that the game just shuts you out and also after such a long good game.

Ah I wonder if that's the issue one of my mates had. I loaned him my HW, and one game he said he was hitting everything all the hurry-ups, all the super jackpots - his score was off the charts (like 122 million, I can't get anywhere near it) - but then he got locked out of everything and he was just shooting the ball around with apparently nothing to do, no scoring etc. I thought maybe he'd reached the end of the code, but now I'm thinking maybe he was locked in a pumpkin mode with one shot left and just it didn't time out?

Hi, chiming in after some time away, but I'm getting a constantly new error/bug/hang up. Anytime I start Death in the Driver's Seat, if I hit the Pumpkin, it never pops back up out of the tunnel, and the machine never even attempts to do a ball search. Anyone else experiencing this at all?

I’d love a timer on all the modes. Or an option for one. It feels limited.

Yea pumpkin modes aren't timed so they just go on and on. The three playfield modes all have timers to activate their MB feature. This was a problem before 1.10 with Sanitarium as it used to not have a timer and you could be locked into that mode till you drain.

In various modes lot of the playfield is simply non scoring so if you get locked in a mode with no other modes you can stack onto it, you are basically stuck with one or a couple targets. I somehow had this happen once when the game bugged in Bob and Lynda, only shot was the final balcony but the diverter had closed the house and nothing I did could open it, so I also couldn't really score anything.

You can normally have other modes you can hit to start and do things, but it is possible in this game depending on combination of modes you play you get stuck with essentially a dead playfield forcing you to make a specific shot to move on and nothing else. It's frustrating and why I've brought up in the past why I feel they need to open up more gameplay scoring during certain modes, provide alternate shots that at least do SOMETHING. Light up some random blood to earn blood, maybe create special lit shots that provide end of ball bonuses, or end ball bonus multipliers.

It's just not fun when the game feels like it's just a bunch of bricked shots.

Course just adding a timer to the pumpkin modes would be helpful, if anything make it generous if you want the modes to last long, but we really need the modes to not lock us out of the game, they at least fixed this issue with the sanitarium timer's addition.

Halloween #6 is finally in my house.

rd

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Congrats!!!

Great isn’t it
Even better with Vimtoman’s scoop mod, turns it into a really sweet shot.

I don’t have a problem hitting the scoop .. but I appreciate every machine is different.

Updated to the new code - had a game, everything seems to work ok! . Didn’t have enough blood to buy an extra ball though! Bummer. Extra balls will be off anyway when I get around to adjusting it.

rd

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I didn’t either but it cushions it and those few bounce outs went away, might stop the scoop bending over time as well that people were getting making the shot harder but that’s just a case of bending back.
I’m a pretty good player but find this game pretty tuff, that’s a decent score!

Do you know when new code is being released

Had to change out my mini pc yesterday as the original one bricked again, reinstalled the software and working again (3rd time) but put the replacement in that spooky sent me. Must be a ram issue on the original as it works for a while and if not turned on for a week or so that’s when it goes to the bios screen.

I’d check the CR2025 battery on the motherboard. If those are crappy the will lose their settings and keep the board from booting properly

Yes could be that too, Matt was saying might be faulty ram that holds booting info. I did have it open the first time it did it to check connections but didn’t meter the battery. Will have to check that now it’s out, fiddly little thing to get into.

So were those made in order and it's been sitting around waiting for a bulk shipment overseas or did they hold off that number and made it later? Wondering about like the early models where the ramps had to get replacements put in....

The boot information isn't held in the main RAM. Maybe he's just using it as a general term. But the boot settings themselves (like whether to go to the blue screen, or boot to the game directly) are stored in volatile memory that requires the battery to be good. I was just suggesting that, as it may explain why you've had several of these go bad.

Would be good if it’s a flaky battery, people are going to be having fun changing these in a few years
Was annoying that I went from a 128gb 8mb to a 64gb 4mb but seems to run the same on the one game I tested it on, going to have a few games now and scrutinise it lol.

Made in order. First 50 went to VIP's.

The game fits on 64gb hdd no problem, extra space is wasted. Likely same with RAM, the entire game image is under 2GB so 4GB should be plenty to work with.

Computers are complicated, it can get annoying! LOL . I've had several PC-based games I've eventually had to replace the battery. It only takes a few seconds - not terribly more difficult than a 90s DMD game

Yes I have done it on Dialed In with a magnetic telescopic stick, a Mame arcade cab and a quiz machine but taking that mini pc apart with it all still turned on is going to be interesting unless you want to reinstall from scratch.

On a brighter note, while checking the new pc out I cut some cable ties and pushed them under the playfield glass trim and the shaking glass noise has gone and I had already tried the foam trick which only helped a little.
I was sceptical if this would work as I have read about it before but it did so no 2” cut outs needed!

Can you post pics

Just received my Pop Eliminator from here. Hope to install this weekend and give an update on how well it works.

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I will try but they are hard to see, will do it tomorrow and circle where they are.

Nah, mine was made last.

I just waited until all the Standards were made so we could ship them all back together. Saves everyone money when they all ship together. Most of our order was standards.

rd

Just cut the cable tie into the pieces you need, no need to only use the pointy end. Goes under the plastic glass trim roughly spaced like red circles in pic.
I had some foam in place that made a small improvement but the cable ties stopped the rattling and I turned the sub up too.
I already fitted a spacer on my sub because factory fit has the foam surround jammed against the cab so it doesn’t move freely, that improved the sound from it massively.

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Drilling the two holes in the bottom of the cabinet seems a bit easier and less time consuming though. Course you got to have the hole saw bit to do it....

Took me a couple of minutes with the cable tie method.

Easily reversible/non destructive and you don’t even have to lift the playfield.

I’m actually enjoying it more now it’s not making that annoying glass vibration noise, it was driving me mad!

I just put some anti-rattle tape on th side of the glas and it works perfect. its invisible, cheap and makes no sound at all. Even though its to get rid of the vibrations from th subwoofer, it works as well for the vibrations from the shaker.

I have one of these in my GnR LE, I’ve been considering getting one for my H78.
Definitely post your experience with the install and the result!!!

I have a plan to solve the rattle myself. I haven't done it yet but plan to as soon as I get some free time. First of all, the 10' speaker really needs a riser. The cone doesn't have full range of motion without it. I bought a cheap 3/4" riser on Amazon. My plan is to vent the riser before installing. This will allow air to escape the cabinet preventing the rattle from happening. I'll have a instant fix without modification to the cabinet and better sound. It is a win win for like 12 bucks.

Did you fit a spacer on the sub? If you didn’t there will be a lot more air movement if you do and the glass flexes. I had the foam and it helped but once I fitted the spacer it introduced more rattle. That sub can’t move much without the spacer.

Man I’m weird. I love the rattle based on freaking me out due to the theme.

I put a spacer on the sub that was mention in some posts back of this thread. It seemed to help a lot with the glass. Now I need to figure out something for the speakers in the back box to stop the rattle. It's starting to drive me nuts.

I am looking for a solution to this too.

Tempted to put form tape under the speaker frame where it mounts to the panel so it'll be sandwiched between. Not sure if that would help or not. Wondering if anybody else had sort solutions?

Porting the bottom of the cabinet removes the air pressure and nothing rattles any more.

The air needs somewhere to go — the bass speaker is creating air pressure inside a sealed enclosure. It looks for the easiest means of escape.

Lift up the playfield (ie open the enclosure) and do a music test. You’ll likely see the rattle has gone. If it hasn’t, something may be loose and rattling around.

rd

You just need to open the coin door to release the air pressure from the sub/cab to do a pressure test.

No rattles at all with the cable tie trick on mine, luckily no backbox rattles to fix and that’s with a spacer on the sub so it can move more air.
Once you fix the rattles caused by the sub on the playfield glass you can drop the bass a bit on the backbox speakers if they are causing rattles and turn the sub up.

I hate those rattles from glass, rattles from the room shaking with a big old external sub is ok though

Question though - How does a 10-15mm spacer move more air?

All it’s doing is lifting the speaker off the cabinet bottom.

Yes - it could let the speaker cone move some more - maybe - but that speaker is way underdriven by that amp. It it was 100w RMS then sure - but that thing is probably 10W RMS (actual real power - not “tell the boys at the pub” power …)

I think at best a spacer is just providing some separation from the cabinet bottom - which could provide some separation from the speaker movement.

The proof is in the pudding - Scooby Doo has exactly the same audio system, but they have added 2x port holes - and the problem is solved. No rattle at all.

rd

I’m very happy with the two holes I drilled in mine. Eventually I’ll get some mesh to cover the holes to make it look like factory. I wonder if Spooky would send me some.