(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club

By wiredoug

10 years ago


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  • 4,696 posts
  • 396 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by vec-tor
  • Topic is favorited by 184 Pinsiders

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#1368 6 years ago

Can anyone give me the rubber sizes on Firepower II or at minimum the slingshot rubber size?

#1370 6 years ago

I printed a rubber sizing chart and put my sling rubber on it and it's measuring 4 1/2". Seems big.

#1372 6 years ago

My ST has 2 1/2", but the FPII has bigger slings on it. The previous owner added the rubbers and maybe he used a bigger rubber on the slings than it needed. They do seem a little loose, but work well.

2 months later
#1450 6 years ago

Any chance someone knows the replacement switch number for FirePower II kick out hole for multi-ball. I'm unable to locate it and don't have a manual that is goes into depth.

#1451 6 years ago

I just need to say. I've have had many pinball machines and for some reason Firepower II is one I never get sick of.

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#1458 6 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The eject kick-out is like the micro switch that is used in High Speed.
The out hole switch is also a micro switch that is used in High Speed.

Ok, thank you. I'll try to look up High Speed's manual.

1 month later
#1557 6 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Couldn't find any decent instruction cards so I drafted up my own.

Those are awesome. Can you make one for Fire Power II?

3 months later
#1729 6 years ago

My Firepower II gate switches for the ramp are working intermittently. I've tried to adjust and clean both of them, because the right switch doesn't work without the left switch. I have had no success. The solder joints appear to be good and the wiring looks good. I was going to purchase new switches, but I can't find them anywhere. Anybody else have this problem. I might start following wires to the main board and see if something else is causing this. Any suggestions of where I can by these switches. I believe the part number is SW-1A-168.

1 month later
#1861 6 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

Action pinball says you can use this gottlieb as a replacement? I would use your meter and check continuity on the old switches and wiring first.
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=B-18807
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-18807

Thank you!

2 weeks later
#1904 6 years ago

I looked all over for this gate and couldn't find one. Marco recommended making your own. They sell a kit for about 10.00

#1922 6 years ago
Quoted from DMC:

Help please. My FPII sound sometimes works fine and other times it’s just all wrong with some sounds correct and others weird sounding. Also the background drone will not play at all, and other times starts up and plays as soon as I turn on the machine or keeps playing at the end of a game. Should I remove and reseat the sound chip? Thanks.

My FFII has done this a couple of times. The first time I replaced the sound board with a used one on eBay and it fixed the problem. Now it's doing it again. So I unplugged the connections to the sound board and plugged them back in. This worked temporarily and started up again. Next, I'll be checking the connections. I think something is not seating properly or bad connection.

7 months later
#2396 5 years ago

You might be able to bend it slightly. Just be careful not to break it. Some of those are hard to replace.

1 year later
#3318 4 years ago

Back in the club. This time with the 1st. Firepower.

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#3322 4 years ago

Thx Rblo,
Everything works ok, but all the mechanics need to be rebuilt. It’ll keep me busy for a little bit. Plus the play field is super dry, even after waxing. I’ll have to clear coat it asap to protect the artistry.

1 week later
#3341 4 years ago

My lane change (1-4) stopped working. The switch under the right flipper is making contact and cleaned, all wires on the switch have been spliced and resoldered, the diode on the switch was replaced, the diodes under the 1-4 lights have been checked and the flipper button switches have been cleaned. I'm guessing there is something faulty with the board. Any suggestions?

#3343 4 years ago

Yes, I just realized that almost the entire row is out. It appears to be GRN-BLU column 6. However the right kicker and play field tilt are still working in that column. All of the wiring and diodes seem ok. I'll need to reseat the board.

#3344 4 years ago

Reseated the row of dark green wires (switch column) a couple times with no luck. I did find that the amp column (IC13) chip was loose and I pushed it in. Still no luck. Are any of the transistors connected to that column?

#3346 4 years ago

Resistor R150 at the bottom is a little crispy as well. Not sure if it would cause this problem

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#3347 4 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Yes, I just realized that almost the entire row is out. It appears to be GRN-BLU column 6. However the right kicker and play field tilt are still working in that column. All of the wiring and diodes seem ok. I'll need to reseat the board.

Correction- The entire row is out. The right kicker works, but doesn't score and I checked the wrong tilt. I'll reflow some solder to the board pins tomorrow.

#3351 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Sometimes a wire in the matrix coming unsoldered can cause what you described. Did you trace the wires and make sure everything under the playfield is still attached?

Yes, I checked all of the sockets, switches and diodes that were shown in that column. I didn't see any wires touching, bent over lugs or bad diodes. If this was the reason things weren't working, wouldn't the culprit come from the next to last item working in the column on the play field?

#3353 4 years ago

I removed the Driver Board and CPU, reflowed solder to the back of the connections and some chips. Also checked resistors and transistors. Everything looked good, but the problems still isn't fixed. I'm wondering if the IC11 (switch matrix) or IC18 chip is bad.

#3355 4 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

It's likely to be the transistor(s) that drive the row.
Do you have the manual/schematic. And a logic probe?

I have the schematics, but I'm not sure which transistor runs it. I tested all the transistors the last time I pulled it out and they all appeared good. I'll check them again.

So, it's definitely the board. I put my Blackout driver board into Firepower and it works. However, I still need to fix the problem to get both of my machines running.

#3356 4 years ago

It's a bitch when things aren't going right, But Hell Ya when they do! I couldn't find anything wrong with connections, transistors, resistors, etc. I started following the chips around and thought IC18 was next in line to give me problems. The great thing about it was, I had an extra N7406 chip to replace IC18. Installed it and problem solved. Yeah!

Thanks for the help everyone

#3359 4 years ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

I'm trying to follow the comments and what you've found so far. Just to clarify, is it an entire *row* or *column* that's out? Both were mentioned, but I think you meant entire switch column 6, not row. Looks like column 6 goes to 2J2-3 on the driver board, possibly IC18 like you mentioned, C54, R209, or R90. I had a row or column act up intermittently on a Data East TMNT that was previously working fine. Then it got worse and dead altogether. Took me forever, but I finally found a trace that had a weird scratch and glob of solder (that must have been there for a long time, maybe before I had it) and it was shorting between two traces. Maybe look closely along the trace of the related circuit to see if anything looks suspicious.
EDIT- Glad you found it! IC18! Awesome... such a rewarding feeling when you find that bugger.

Yes, switch column 6 was out. I noticed it go out all at once. I was guessing that the schematics led to IC18. The previous owner added SIPs connectors to a few of the chips including IC18. All the soldering looked good with nothing crossing. The SIPs made it easy to remove the chip and add a new one. It appears the IC18 chip went completely bad. I'm hoping this will stay fixed and not come back.

#3361 4 years ago

I have a problem where the ball drains and then occasionally comes out the shooter lane as if it didn't drain and I got an extra ball (sympathy ball). I'm assuming it's not suppose to do that. I checked the 3 trough switches and they appeared in good order.

#3365 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

It's specifically programmed to do this, the outhole switch has to be seen and the coil fire to move it into the trough - if the outhole switch is not seen and flagged, the game will fire another ball into play.
I added a post to the right part of the under apron area above the trough to help prevent this... just a metal post, no rubber.

This seems logical, because I don't hear the coil fire under the apron. Seems like the ball is sneaking by and rolling another into the shooter lane. Can you post a pic please?

#3371 4 years ago

What color lights are people choosing for behind the 6 targets? Doesn't matter what I try, they are blinding me. I'm just using red now, but I can't really see the artwork. Anybody try some of those directional bending lights?

#3372 4 years ago

This is from your other posting, but it looks like the ball could fall to either side of the post. Is the object to make sure the ball falls to the left side (looking at backglass)? Also make sure it doesn't get stuck on the right side?

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#3373 4 years ago

This is my play field. I can see a small dot close to where you have your post.
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#3374 4 years ago
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#3376 4 years ago

Thank you
I don't want to drill anything until I know where to drill, haha

#3380 4 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I'm thinking about ordering more of the warm white frosted LEDs from comet.
Do led flashers cause issues?
Please post any other ideas or tips for leds for this game. Thank you very much.

I Think there are only 2 flasher bulbs (#84) and they are the 2 big bulbs under the fire & power inserts. You can probably buy warm white comets for everything else. Also there's a couple tight socket holes where my Pinball Life Ghostbusters had a hard time fitting (outlanes & 6 standing targets) and needed a slimmer bulb. I'm not sure if Comets are slimmer than Ghostbusters or not.

#3381 4 years ago

The bulbs under the 6 targets will blind you. I ordered 2 directional bulbs for this area. Hopefully this will fix it.

#3382 4 years ago

Additionally, I suggest to order frosted bulbs no matter the color.

#3404 4 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

When you install a playfield protector... is it best to remove the playfield wax?

I’ve never used a play field protector, but I’d leave the wax for added protection and to make the game keep its shine.

#3408 4 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Does the left kickout coil have an "A" or "B" coil sleeve?[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine has an A sleeve, but I'm not sure what is supposed to be in it. I cleaned the kick out and added a new sleeve, but every time it kicks out the ball the power is very random. I think it's because the end of the kickout arm sits in the coil very loose. I might change the coil sleeve to a longer one or utilize your B sleeve.

#3412 4 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I'm NOT complaining staff have been far less lately etc because of covid-19 but I find it very interesting that I ordered parts on Tues 4-7 from both Pinball Life & Playfield Protectors. Pinball Life is about 600 miles away..... Pinball Protectors is about 5,000 miles away.
The protector arrived yesterday 4-10 & the Pinball Life order tracking says it will be here Wed 4-15.
[quoted image]

I've had 2 orders and Pinball Life has been taking about 7 business days lately. No complaint, just info. Not bad considering the circumstances.

#3417 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Anyone know where to find these little red button caps? I need 2 for my Firepower.[quoted image]

I think you have to purchase the entire assembly. However, I bet the tiny Super Band Mini Post bands would work, with a little super glue.

https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-super-bands-transparent-mini-post-rubbers.html

#3453 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Manual pg.25

I only have to page 12 and stops.

1 week later
#3484 3 years ago

I am loving this flipper / rubber combo. Black flippers, translucent Titan rubbers and Ice Blue Comet trough light.

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#3491 3 years ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

Kinda like this...?
[quoted image]

Or This!

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#3505 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I have a extra wire form... I see 1 that's in the trough but am wondering where this 1 may go. Thank you
[quoted image]

Ball gate inside the trough? Make sure it's in the right direction or your balls will bounce back. Could also the top of the shooter lane where the ball exits.

#3509 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Would this look like where it should go? It may be broke on the end where I'm holding it.[quoted image]

It goes from one side of the trough to the other. The ball gate prevents the ball from coming back out and locks it in. Yours doesn't look broke. However, it will only work after the apron is installed. The apron prevents the gate from flipping over.

#3510 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Would this look like where it should go? It may be broke on the end where I'm holding it.[quoted image]

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#3511 3 years ago
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3 weeks later
#3552 3 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Anyone know what would cause the fire again light to come, and stay on during play. I didn’t get an extra ball, and when it drains it still counts as a lost ball..

Bad diode or maybe the wire leg is pinched against the socket.

#3554 3 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Thanks. So you think it would be related to the Actual socket vs a problem with the boardS or Switch matrix signaling the light to turn on?

I'm no expert, but if it was the board or matrix, I would think you would see more than 1 light locked on, unless it was the last in that column. It's easier to check everything that has to do with the socket before messing with the board.
Sometimes the legs of the socket are bent and touching the socket itself. Especially that one, because people rest the playfield onto the cabinet and bends the socket or pinches the wire. Also, diodes are a dime a dozen and easy to replace or you can check it with an Multi-meter. I'd replace the diode or at least make sure it's attached and a leg didn't come off of the socket.

1 week later
#3576 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I have a big problem... I installed 555 sockets in the pop bumpers. (Wires were connected the way the original sockets were)throughout the game.
Everything worked fine before the 555 pop bumper sockets & leds were put in.
At 1st.. it was fine. I then noticed a few controlled leds were not working... most leds turned off in backbox.... then I saw smoke from under playfield.... not sure where from.... but near pop bumpers.
Could this be what Vid1900 was talking about when he mentioned things can go bad if polarities are wrong etc?
Any info appreciated?

Yikes, I have no idea, but I'd check your back box and bridge rectifiers.

#3591 3 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Will grab a pic tomorrow, just installed a flipper rebuild kit; new sleeve, plunger/HW, and spring.

Make sure your plunger reaches the coil stop.

#3597 3 years ago

Anybody install the Hardtops? How does it play and hold up? I have a decent play field, but I'm starting to get some weathering above the flippers

#3605 3 years ago
Quoted from waveman:

I installed one about a year ago and think it's great. The ball is fast and the playfield looks as good as new. I don't notice any difference on how the ball behaves compared to a new "normal" playfield. For my machine, it was a massive improvement.
I posted about installing the hardtop here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-hardtop-restoration

Thanks for the info

#3607 3 years ago
Quoted from hodgesm0:

Installed a new coil today and that did the trick.

Glad to hear. There was some flipper rebuild kits that came out that had the wrong plungers. This was making the plunger to not come in full contact with the coil stop. Creating weak flippers.

#3615 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Recently started having this problem myself. Look like the coil springs are too tight. Right flipper in not contacting the coil stop cleanly. Spring appears to be gathering too tightly. It isn’t the sloped style pinball spring. It looks like a standard Home Depot spring....lol.

Take a picture of your plunger and link assembly at rest and then another picture of it pushed in.

2 weeks later
#3652 3 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

My upper right pop bumper lamp is not working. I'm going to rebuild these all soon, but can anyone please tell me if this is correct or if there should be another wire connected to the lamp lead? I also notice there is one light on the playfield outlane that permanently stays on.
[quoted image]

Did you make sure the socket is tight around the bulb?

1 week later
#3703 3 years ago

Anybody try out the clear play field protectors. What's your thoughts?

3 months later
#3807 3 years ago

Check your trough switches under play field.

#3812 3 years ago
Quoted from airplanequartet:

My firepower just started having a sound problem, the background sound doesn’t come on and it keeps making the tilt sound without a tilt, just tilt sound after tilt sound. It seems to be playing correctly otherwise. Any ideas on where to start?

This sound problem happened to my friends machine the other day. When I checked on it, I noticed he moved the sound turn knob on the board and shut off his vocal sounds. I would try to turn and adjust the knob too.

1 week later
#3822 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:Help Please!!
I purchased a Firepower and did a mini rehab...space limited full.
That being said I installed new flipper coils, EOS switch (purchased rebuild kit). The button switch is clean.
Now comes the kicker...the left flipper doesn't work but the right does.
I have the original manual.

Since you cleaned the Flipper button switches. Make sure the leaf switches still touch, when pushing the flipper button in. You might have bent a leaf switch to far back.

#3824 3 years ago
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:

Definitely took photos...lots...it was a photo shoot for sure.
I tested voltage...right works and has 37 steady...left only has 8...both drop when button is pushed.

You replaced the coils. Was there diodes connected in your old coils? If so, did you install new ones? I forgot if those coils had diodes or not.

#3829 3 years ago

From the pictures, it doesn't look like your right flipper is working. Haha

2 weeks later
#3872 3 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

If someone can let me know, when you hit the power targets, how is that supposed to effect the fire Lanes? When I hit all three power targets it flashes the fire lanes and changes the number of lit lanes. Is this right ?
(Trying to figure my lamp issue )

When you light all fire rollovers, it lights/says fire. When you hit all 3 power targets, it lights/says power. When you've completed both, the game says Fire Power and steps up your 3 bonus points between bumpers.

16076591985261612570267 (resized).jpg16076591985261612570267 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#3924 3 years ago

Is there updated ROM that changes the rules on Firepower from the original ROM? Is it worth the switch? If so, who sells them?

#3927 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

It's on https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=856 all the sets that are listed as "bootleg" as mods.
This is the author of most of them's page with info on it: http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

Thank you

2 months later
#4007 2 years ago

You need to make sure your plunger is hitting the coil stop. I ordered a kit off eBay and they were to short, maybe because they used the wrong link. I changed it to a 1/16 longer Stern plunger (I think) and they work great now.

#4008 2 years ago

I wouldn't buy any system 6 flipper rebuild kits on ebay. I had to go back and forth with the seller to prove they were wrong. They may have changed it by now

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