(Topic ID: 70775)

The Firepower Club


By wiredoug

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,532 posts
  • 298 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Jigs
  • Topic is favorited by 132 Pinsiders

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There are 3532 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 71.
#3401 49 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Has anyone had good luck with Firepower spinner decals? If so... where did you buy yours?
Thanks

Here you go...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-firepower-club/page/7#post-2439374

#3402 48 days ago

Thank you VERY much !! That website has it all !!

I'm headed to the print shop now.

#3403 48 days ago

When you install a playfield protector... is it best to remove the playfield wax?

#3404 48 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

When you install a playfield protector... is it best to remove the playfield wax?

I’ve never used a play field protector, but I’d leave the wax for added protection and to make the game keep its shine.

#3405 48 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

When you install a playfield protector... is it best to remove the playfield wax?

I have a playfield protector on my firepower because the inserts are cupped and raised. No need to strip anything. Just clean the playfield and lay it over the top. Works great for uneven inserts.

#3406 47 days ago

I waxed mine before placing the protector. I wanted the playfield to look as good as possible. I also wax the playfield protector.

#3407 45 days ago

Does the left kickout coil have an "A" or "B" coil sleeve?

20200411_112109 (resized).jpg20200411_112128 (resized).jpg
#3408 45 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Does the left kickout coil have an "A" or "B" coil sleeve?[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine has an A sleeve, but I'm not sure what is supposed to be in it. I cleaned the kick out and added a new sleeve, but every time it kicks out the ball the power is very random. I think it's because the end of the kickout arm sits in the coil very loose. I might change the coil sleeve to a longer one or utilize your B sleeve.

#3409 45 days ago

A sleeve in mine and it works great.

#3410 45 days ago

Thanks... I've heard/read that the B style sometimes go in kickouts but the regular A was in there & now the 2 of you agreed.

#3411 45 days ago

I'm NOT complaining staff have been far less lately etc because of covid-19 but I find it very interesting that I ordered parts on Tues 4-7 from both Pinball Life & Playfield Protectors. Pinball Life is about 600 miles away..... Pinball Protectors is about 5,000 miles away.

The protector arrived yesterday 4-10 & the Pinball Life order tracking says it will be here Wed 4-15.
20200411_151044 (resized).jpg

#3412 45 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I'm NOT complaining staff have been far less lately etc because of covid-19 but I find it very interesting that I ordered parts on Tues 4-7 from both Pinball Life & Playfield Protectors. Pinball Life is about 600 miles away..... Pinball Protectors is about 5,000 miles away.
The protector arrived yesterday 4-10 & the Pinball Life order tracking says it will be here Wed 4-15.
[quoted image]

I've had 2 orders and Pinball Life has been taking about 7 business days lately. No complaint, just info. Not bad considering the circumstances.

#3413 45 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Does the left kickout coil have an "A" or "B" coil sleeve?

Are you trying to say left kick back?
If so, then the "B" style coil sleeve is used.
If you are saying the left saucer kickout coil... (middle left playfield).
Then, it is the "A" coil sleeve.

#3414 45 days ago

Oh ok.... thanks. Yes... the lower left kick back.

The A style was in it & I had a new same style replacement. What changes in its performance if i leave the wrong 1 in?

#3415 45 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

What changes in its performance if i leave the wrong 1 in?

It depends on how the coil sleeve is mounted...
Lose coil mounting on through hole plunger solenoids
causes both metal parts to shear each other.
The plunger can "cut" the mounting bracket...
etc,etc,etc.

#3416 42 days ago

Anyone know where to find these little red button caps? I need 2 for my Firepower.

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#3417 42 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Anyone know where to find these little red button caps? I need 2 for my Firepower.[quoted image]

I think you have to purchase the entire assembly. However, I bet the tiny Super Band Mini Post bands would work, with a little super glue.

https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-super-bands-transparent-mini-post-rubbers.html

#3418 42 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I think you have to purchase the entire assembly. However, I bet the tiny Super Band Mini Post bands would work, with a little super glue.
https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-super-bands-transparent-mini-post-rubbers.html

I’m going to hold out in hopes that someone might have a few to part with before I get creative but I like that idea!

#3419 42 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Anyone know where to find these little red button caps? I need 2 for my Firepower.[quoted image]

Try Newark...
I do not know if they would work but three color to choose from.

#3420 41 days ago

Anyone know where i can get the thin nut that crews on to the power switch underneath the cabinet?

#3421 41 days ago

It might be easier to buy a new switch and rob the nut from it.

I don’t recall seeing just the nut for sale.

#3422 41 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

It might be easier to buy a new switch and rob the nut from it.
I don’t recall seeing just the nut for sale.

Not for $18.99. Maybe someone has one sitting around

#3423 41 days ago
Quoted from Gnatty:

Not for $18.99. Maybe someone has one sitting around

Just go to Lowes, Home Depot or any auto parts store you can buy a toggle switch for $3.00 - $4.00.

#3424 41 days ago
Quoted from kuelman:

Just go to Lowes, Home Depot or any auto parts store you can buy a toggle switch for $3.00 - $4.00.

Same at E-Bay...

#3425 40 days ago

I was repinning a connector for IJ4 and noticed on the RottenDog combo board that the far left pin is missing. Can someone confirm this is normal?

Wiring diagram shows that pin being used but it seems to be missing from the combo board

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#3426 40 days ago

1J4 pin 1 should be cut... or not
1J4 pin 1 should have a jumper on back side
1J4 pin 1 to 1J3 pin 1
1J4 pin 2 gnd
1J4 pin 3 input to ic5 ca1 interrupt
1J4 pin 4 input to ic5 cb1 interrupt
---------------------------------------
1J3 pin 1 memory protect input.

#3427 39 days ago

The playfield near the left sling needed some touch-up. Thought to ask stepdaughter if she'd be interested since she liked to do art projects.

VERY happy how it turned out.
20200418_042056 (resized).jpg20200418_042029 (resized).jpg

#3428 38 days ago

I have a green/brown wire that has been cut in my FP coin door as well as a white/yellow wire. Does anyone know where these are supposed to go?

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#3429 38 days ago
Quoted from 2Fun:

I have a green/brown wire that has been cut in my FP coin door as well as a white/yellow wire. Does anyone know where these are supposed to go?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Check page 24 of the schematics (can be found on IPDB).

Green - Brown is column 1 of the switch matrix and connects to the 3 coin chutes, reset and slam tilt switches.
White - Yellow is row 4 of the switch matrix and connects to the diode side of the right coin chute.

#3430 38 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

The playfield near the left sling needed some touch-up. Thought to ask stepdaughter if she'd be interested since she liked to do art projects.
VERY happy how it turned out.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome!

#3431 38 days ago

Thanks! The white/yellow was actually white/violet. I messed that up. I'm a little hesitant hooking these back up. Previous owner must of had a reason to cut them.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Check page 24 of the schematics (can be found on IPDB).
Green - Brown is column 1 of the switch matrix and connects to the 3 coin chutes, reset and slam tilt switches.
White - Yellow is row 4 of the switch matrix and connects to the diode side of the right coin chute.

#3432 38 days ago
Quoted from 2Fun:

Thanks! The white/yellow was actually white/violet. I messed that up. I'm a little hesitant hooking these back up. Previous owner must of had a reason to cut them.

White violet goes to the slam tilt switch. I can't tell from your pictures but is the slam tilt switch on the door? Maybe they cut it out when they removed the switch for some reason.

You don't really need to hook them up unless you want to put the game on location somewhere.

#3433 38 days ago

I replaced the 5101 and get the same error...

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#3434 38 days ago

Should I try to replace the socket?

#3435 37 days ago
Quoted from airplanequartet:

Should I try to replace the socket?

Have you replaced the batteries or added NVRam? Is there corrosion on the battery holder, or are the batteries loose if its still on the board?

I believe there is also a diode on the mpu that can cause the battery voltage to not get to the rest of the board correct? Maybe someone else can explain that in more detail than I can.

#3436 37 days ago

Also have to turn it off and back on quickly a few times to bring it out of test.

#3437 37 days ago

For the guys who installed a playfield protector... did you remove the wire guides or cut a slot in the protector for them?

#3438 37 days ago

If you continuously are getting the audit mode 1497 code, your ram isn't holding its checksum byte for some reason. When it boots up with the audit code there, the os rom has cleared all the nvram and has reset it back to factory settings.

Cycling the power fast enough to avoid the newly-loaded checksum clearing is what's happening - but it means that your battery power isn't getting properly to the ram.

#3439 37 days ago
Quoted from airplanequartet:

I replaced the 5101 and get the same error...[quoted image]

Did you replace it with NVRAM or an actual replacement 5101 RAM chip?

If its an actual RAM chip, with the game off, measure the voltage at pin 22 to ground. It should be 4.2 -4.3 volts (battery pack less the voltage drop of the blocking diode). If you don't have voltage, trace back to the battery pack and see where the break is (could be the blocking diode or the battery pack itself).

If you have good voltage on pin 22, you can try replacing the socket.

If you don't want to mess with potentially bad 5101 or battery voltage problems, get an NVRAM. I've had perfect luck with Andrew's modules. Plus he is a great guy!
https://nvram.weebly.com/

#3440 37 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

5101 RAM chip

Can be flaky... should test in known good game.

#3441 37 days ago

I removed the wire guides before putting the playfield protector on.

#3442 37 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

I removed the wire guides before putting the playfield protector on.

Thanks... I used a small nail to tap them up from underneath. It was very easy.

The right kickout plastic needed to be loosened to get at 1 of the holes.

#3443 37 days ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

For the guys who installed a playfield protector... did you remove the wire guides or cut a slot in the protector for them?

Removed the wire guides.

#3444 37 days ago

Im looking at the schematics and I'm not able to locate the values of the caps and resistors on the pop bumpers and slings switches. I'm going to replace them all. Anyone know off hand what they are?

Also just to help me know for the future where on the schematics are these located?

#3445 37 days ago

22 uF and 100 ohm resistor

I don't think it's on the schematics anywhere though

#3446 37 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

22 uF and 100 ohm resistor
I don't think it's on the schematics anywhere though

Thanks!

#3447 37 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

22 uF and 100 ohm resistor

I don't think it's on the schematics anywhere though

Manual pg.25

#3448 36 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Im looking at the schematics and I'm not able to locate the values of the caps and resistors on the pop bumpers and slings switches. I'm going to replace them all. Anyone know off hand what they are?
Also just to help me know for the future where on the schematics are these located?

22uf 10V (higher voltage rating is fine). Pay attention to the polarity of the cap as you install it, you don't want to install it backwards.

#3449 36 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

22uf 10V (higher voltage rating is fine). Pay attention to the polarity of the cap as you install it, you don't want to install it backwards.

I did a lot of reading on this thread and found mention of 22uf 50v so that’s what I was gong to order.

Also I’m assuming the resistor is 1/2 watt?

Thanks for clarifying

#3450 36 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Also I’m assuming the resistor is 1/2 watt?

1/4 watt, common value.

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There are 3532 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 71.

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