He just mentioned it was a repro that Williams did in 96. Here's a photo. thanks

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Liking all that red!

I have a extra wire form... I see 1 that's in the trough but am wondering where this 1 may go. Thank you

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Thanx @mrm_4...way too much work but so worth it.

Ball gate inside the trough? Make sure it's in the right direction or your balls will bounce back. Could also the top of the shooter lane where the ball exits.

Their were 2 official repro backglasses make, one in 1996 & another possibly earlier or in the 90s as well? I have one version which the glass is thinner & the "Firepower" lettering at the top is pink not red - not from fade as I read they were printed with pink instead. Otherwise very close to an original. The other has fade on top as clearly orange rather than red (as mentioned)

It appears that Alan Meyer's is the version with the orange fade. I wonder who did the other "pink" version

I looked up on RGP the discussions that were going on then - 1988 is when WMS apparently made the 2nd run with the pink lettering and thin glass. 1996-up are the Alan Meyer screens used to make glass, earlier versions were missing the correct dithering at the top in the firepower logo, and the later versions I believe corrected this. I have that version with the bad dither - when east coast shows come back I'll take a peak at Mayfair's current offering as IIRC it's been corrected.

Would this look like where it should go? It may be broke on the end where I'm holding it.

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It goes from one side of the trough to the other. The ball gate prevents the ball from coming back out and locks it in. Yours doesn't look broke. However, it will only work after the apron is installed. The apron prevents the gate from flipping over.

Thanks trk12fire !! I really appreciate you taking the pictures & explaining exactly where this goes. Also... letting me know the wire form I have wasn't broken... saving me $.

Probably saw some discussions I was involved in; I had the "2nd run" which is as you described - pinkish lettering instead of red, and thin glass. Regular 44/47 bulbs hot spot the crap out of this glass. I hated it. I let it go when I sold a previous FP machine and retained the nice (albeit mylared) original glass in my keeper FP instead. Hard to beat the deep red lettering of the original.

For what it's worth, the "orange" dithered area on the original glass is actually quite red...at least on my early run original glass. The rest of the colors seem more vibrant to me. Pics attached - large one is the original, smaller one (date stamped 2004) is the Williams "2nd run" and the hot spots are very obvious.

Richard

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The pink lettering really bothered me every time I played the game, & knowing it was printed on thin glass added to this as well.

Really happy with the repro glass from PPS. I think the colours are excellent & hard to ultimately compare to an original anyway due to some colour variations in the original glasses produced. The only aspect I could fault was some minor bulb hot spots with using either #47 or LEDs.

Easily overcome with fitting white silicone caps on the #47 globes - the result looks perfect IMO.

I got a good amount of time to work on my FP today. Finished up the hardtop and most of the pop bumpers. Cabinet sprayed with rust oleum last coat as well. Almost done and can’t wait to show it off!

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Probably the only area I didn't take a before picture of.

Does anyone have a picture on how the spinner wire feeds through the switch?

I put it through like how I thought it was... but the target lays sideways.

I'm trying to see how the spinner target stays relaxed to know placement of new decals.

Thanks

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RGarriott - Your awesome! Thanks so much.

I had it in the same way.. but had to adjust it a hair to look like yours... works great.

I'm hoping to start my FP restore soon and the one unknown currently is the apron. What are people doing to restore their aprons? Are there decals available?

Really wish they had done repro aprons for these. The one I got for Fathom was beautiful.

DIY coil wrapper's I made for Firepower. I'm linking here for any interested FP owners

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/coil-paper-wrappers#post-5657459

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Perfect timing for me on this one man!
Thanks

Yes

Just in time for me also, for my Firepower and for my Alien Poker. Now all i need is a printer.

Would someone mind checking your speech module and see if my IC5, IC6, and IC7 chips are in the right locations?

I’m assuming you can tell based on those white numbers of 4971, 4972, and 4973

Appreciate it

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Yes that’s how my chips are

Ok thanks!

Yep mine too.

Ok trying to trace this sound issue down on my project FP and I realized the IC9 is missing.
Schematics say 6808/02
Firepowerpinball.com says 6806/02
What should go here and where can I get it?

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That's a typo on firepower pinball's graphic. It's 6802/6808.

Does anyone have a copy of the schematics they can send me, the one on ipbdb is corrupted

Slim supply, but here is the high priced option

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/6808

Also, I believe you have a rotten dog cpu right? Just grab the original cpu's 6808 for free and use in your sound board

Thank you! I might have to just spend the $15 on it. Someone else had the same idea as you before I got this machine.
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Unless anyone has a pile of 6808 or 6802s laying around that could spare one

Pm me your email & I can send you a pdf.

Having a real tough time with a project FP that I recently picked up. I knew it needed board work when I bought it, but I can figure out why I’m not getting any audio. I have a rotten dog all in one in the game while I work on the cpu and driver board. The game will fully play, but I only get a slight hum out of the speaker. I recapped the sound board, but no luck. I’m getting correct voltage at the test points, and I reseated all the rom chips. The pot in the cab and on the voice board will raise and lower the background hum, but I can’t get anything else. Any help or theories would be greatly appreciated!

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Unplug the connector going to the Rottendog and try this little trick. Ground out the pins that would go into the connector. It’ll at least confirm the issue is on the sound board and not the Rottendog if it sill doesn’t work. I’m having the exact same issue right now. Waiting on a 6808 processor chip because my sound board was missing it. But the behavior is exactly what you described. Could be a bad processor on yours.

You can also press the diagnostics button on the sound card and it will play some test sounds. That way, you are not relying on a signal from the driver board.

Press the diagnostic button and while that is running, adjust the balance pot on the voice board. You can also adjust the main volume in the cab.

The sound board is no different than the CPU board in that it can suffer from the typical cold solder joints, bad capacitors and bad IC sockets. Since you replaced the caps already, reflow the solder on the header pins.

Then its a matter of using a logic probe to see if the CPU is running. If its not, I would replace the ROM socket, try again. Then the CPU socket.

Pawing through my Firepower parts I came across a baggie with four pop bumper caps.

Three of these, "normal", are as in the right side of the photo, the odd one is on the left.

Do any of you know the history on this all red, partly upside down, little freak of nature?

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Thanks for the input, Pressing the diagnostic button on the Sound board does nothing, does the cable from cpu need to be unplugged when pressing it?

Has anyone used the all in one speech and sound board from Kohout? Honestly for the price and convenience I think it may be more worth my time to buy the replacement board then having to spend hours troubleshooting and days waiting on replacement parts. I got this game very cheap so I think this makes more since for me.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CP-03-7444-497R

Why would they reproduce them with a “M”

That's fine attention to detail there.

The Driver board does not need to be plugged in, only the power, speaker and volume connectors (3 on the right top side of the board).

Also, reseat the voice board ribbon cable.

is there a substitute for the Speech Module IC1 55516 CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE SLOPE DELTA MODULATOR?

Trying to find all the chips related to voice to replace if the probe finds a bad one and this modulator seems like a tricky one to find

3 different chips can be used - all hard to find.

http://www.arcadechips.com/product_info.php?products_id=51

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HC1-55564-5-Harris-Continuously-Variable-Slope-Delta-Modulator-CERDIP-14/202367366535?hash=item2f1e08f587:g:NB4AAOSw91hbRruF

Thanks for the links man! 20-30 bucks is a bummer. Hopefully this isnt the faulty chip on my board.

Here comes another drop target firepower

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Id like to do that to mine one of these days.

Today i added some red Wolffpac displays. I really like these displays , i also have some some Blue ones on my AP. I find it very satisfying doing my own work and at a good price.

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