(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club

By RDReynolds

10 years ago


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  • 11,721 posts
  • 671 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by blardo
  • Topic is favorited by 354 Pinsiders

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There are 11,721 posts in this topic. You are on page 112 of 235.
#5551 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Ok-ok, let's switch back to:
POA issues.
Pinsound issues.
Decal sources.
Airballs.
Opto issues.

Hmmmm....Nahhh, let’s keep talking bar code then

#5552 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Are you talking about ribbon a ribbon cable kit for IJ?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RC1382

I think that's what I need - talking about the ribbon cables, especially from the fliptronics, mpu, audio board. Thanks! I hardly ever check Marcos these days

#5553 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hmmmm....Nahhh, let’s keep talking bar code then

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#5554 4 years ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I have a small issue that I was hoping someone could help me with. When i start Castle Grunewald mode, the single drop down target does not drop. When you hit the target, it will pop back up, not allowing you to hit the captive ball and collect rewards during that mode. The single drop target seems to work normal at other times (with the lost treasures).
When i put the game in test mode for solenoids, the TOTEM DROPDOWN does not drop the single target. The J107-2 voltage connector looks fine and the J127-9 drive connector appears okay as well. Is it possible that the small yellow solenoid (SM1-26-600) that is part of the single drop down assembly has gone bad? I have a multimeter but am not very experienced with it and am not sure how to test that solenoid. Thank you for any ideas!

This a known issue. The coil is not strong enough and/or the spring is too strong.
I've printed a mechanical stop, the actuator can't go back to full end position. This helps to the coil at the beginning, and able to move the actuator.

20200317_204021 (resized).jpg20200317_204021 (resized).jpg20200317_204059 (resized).jpg20200317_204059 (resized).jpg
#5555 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

This a known issue. The coil is not strong enough and/or the spring is too strong.
I've printed a mechanical stop, the actuator can't go back to full end position. This helps to the coil at the beginning, and able to move the actuator.[quoted image][quoted image]

Forgot to say, I can share the design file for free.

#5556 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Forgot to say, I can share the design file for free.

I need this!

#5558 4 years ago

Indiana Jones and the Holy Roll!

“You give me the Charmin, I throw you the whip”

#5560 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Forgot to say, I can share the design file for free.

Oh wow thank you so much! Never would have figured that out myself. I will take a look and see if I can duplicate design

#5561 4 years ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Indiana Jones and the Holy Roll!
“You give me the Charmin, I throw you the whip”

“No time to shit, give me the Charmin!”

#5562 4 years ago

Never used thingverse before. Do I need to own a 3D printer?

#5563 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I don't have any experience with radcals and given they are pre-cut, wondering how well it matches your cabinet dimensions? My concern is whether cabinets vary in size (even 1-2mm would be noticable).
Anybody got any experience?

Ditto. Who's installed them already? I want to see some installed pics!

Need to get my decals ordered and want to hear real world experience with them before I'm ready to try Radcals over standard decals

#5564 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Never used thingverse before. Do I need to own a 3D printer?

No. Download the stl file, and find someone who has - maybe in this IJ group?
I can also mail to you, but it takes time.

#5565 4 years ago

i ran into something interesting playing today (well, interesting to me). over 2K games and first time for me. If you have the Special lit, and you get the 3 ball multiball for Jackpot, if one of those balls goes down the center drain, the Special turns off. Even if you have 2 balls still in play! Normally the Special will stay lit until you hit it or your drain that ball.
In my opinion, I would guess that was not on purpose by Williams...

#5566 4 years ago

How do you become a member? Just post here?

#5567 4 years ago

Best game. Ranked substantially lower than it is in reality. This is MY grail game. Blows the doors off of MM. Can't wait until my ordered passport and my 8" wide Ark of the Covenant topper arrives! I just need to repair the upper play field solenoid pin. It was binding for who knows how long so ball never stopped. it just kept going around. I corrected the binding but still need to figure that out. Previous owner powder coated the wire frames gold as well as powder coated the pistol. Top notch job. Besides that this game is minty!I added the cobra and have the passport mod and the Ark of the Covenant (8" wide ark box) to be topper. I ordered the jackpot lights. Has anybody taken a dremel to their speaker panel? I will be taking pictures so I can help others. I have an idea I hope pays off. Stay tuned.
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#5568 4 years ago
Quoted from Golgotha:

Best game. Ranked substantially lower than it is in reality. This is MY grail game. Blows the doors off of MM. Can't wait until my ordered passport and my 8" wide Ark of the Covenant topper arrives! I just need to repair the upper play field solenoid pin. It was binding for who knows how long so ball never stopped. it just kept going around. I corrected the binding but still need to figure that out. Previous owner powder coated the wire frames gold as well as powder coated the pistol. Top notch job. Besides that this game is minty!I added the cobra and have the passport mod and the Ark of the Covenant (8" wide ark box) to be topper. I ordered the jackpot lights. Has anybody taken a dremel to their speaker panel? I will be taking pictures so I can help others. I have an idea I hope pays off. Stay tuned.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club! Good looking IJ indeed. Definitely underrated and agree MM, MB, AFM can’t hold a candle to it.

Best 90s pin hands down, might be best of all time

Enjoy!

#5569 4 years ago

Still having fun with my right outlane switch issues, but also trying to troubleshoot the POA motor. I get 12V to both tabs when it's hooked up but it won't move under test. Outside of the test I can ground the tab of the transistor to make it go, right? Well, neither Q30 nor Q34 do anything when grounded. I tried testing them with a multimeter but it's really tight in there and I'd like to make sure I'm force testing them correctly before tearing things apart more.

#5570 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

No. Download the stl file, and find someone who has - maybe in this IJ group?
I can also mail to you, but it takes time.

I could print this for people if it's needed. Not sure what postage would be but time and materials should be about $1-$3 max using PLA depending on infill.

#5571 4 years ago

Has anyone painted their idol? If so, how did you approach it? Thanks for your input.

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#5572 4 years ago

So, I bought and installed a new opto set for the left ramp on my IJ because the opto wasn’t registering in switch test. I’m sad to say, that didn’t fix it. Any ideas what to do now? Thanks for any help.

#5573 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I bought and installed a new opto set for the left ramp on my IJ because the opto wasn’t registering in switch test. I’m sad to say, that didn’t fix it. Any ideas what to do now? Thanks for any help.

Check the opto board and its connectors.

#5574 4 years ago

Sorry. A bit of a noob. Where would the opto board be? Thank you!!

#5575 4 years ago

I located the opto board but everything looks okay. Any other suggestions or tips on what the issue could be or how I could find it? Thank you.

#5576 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I located the opto board but everything looks okay. Any other suggestions or tips on what the issue could be or how I could find it? Thank you.

Well the opto board can look OK but still be faulty. Are any of the other opto switches faulty... or just the one?

#5577 4 years ago

All other optos are working great.

#5578 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well the opto board can look OK but still be faulty. Are any of the other opto switches faulty... or just the one?

Agreed. There are actually 2 boards, opto at the back of the POA on top of the PF and there is one below which controls the pitch. I actually just went ahead and replaced both. Its extreme and you probably only have an issue worth one or the other, but I didn’t want to mess around. After that, never had any issue with POA

#5579 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

All other optos are working great.

If you could swap those for another pair basically swap connectors under the playfield (opto connectors are 4 pin .062) ... if you can make it reach... and see if the problem follows the connector. Then you know its probably the board. Also reseat J209 on the CPU board.

#5580 4 years ago

So the left ramp opto connects to an opto board with other optos connected to it and those other optos are working fine. So, not sure where to go from here? You think replace the opto board?

#5581 4 years ago

Good idea. Let me try that. I will report back.

#5582 4 years ago

So, I can’t swap any of the opto connectors to test because all the female ends are different. I also reseated all the connectors on the CPU board. Btw, J209 doesn’t have anything plugged into it? Any other suggestions? Thank you!!

#5583 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I can’t swap any of the opto connectors to test because all the female ends are different. I also reseated all the connectors on the CPU board. Btw, J209 doesn’t have anything plugged into it? Any other suggestions? Thank you!!

All of the opto assemblies for both ramps, the captive ball and the upkicker for the idol all have the same 4 pin connectors.... like I said, I'm not sure you have enough reach to swap.

Your CPU board may have your opto board plugged into J208... J209 is on the bottom row, far right... J208 is right above it.

#5585 4 years ago

I was lucky enough to join the club last week! I definitely could use your experience, working the kinks out.

The machine had been in storage a lot of years, so I'm working through the cobwebs. Prior owner had already sent the boards out and verified they're good. Then he replaced the POA motor driver and POA opto boards with Homepin units to get the POA working. I believe it was 100% functional when I got it home.

Shortly thereafter I started having issues with the idol ball lock. After cleaning optos and doing a bunch of research I ordered the 10 opto switch board (also homepin). I installed it yesterday. Everything worked normally with the new board, but only for a few minutes. Then I started getting some crazy stuff.

In switch test, if I activated a row-4 switch, the corresponding row-5 switch would also activate. (for example, pulling the gun trigger would also activate the left jet bumper switch) Vise versa was also true. The POA also went dead. When the machine tries to run the diagnostic, the POA PF does not attempt to move, and the display shows that the test failed.

While trying to solve the double switch activations, I pulled the connector off my 10 opto board that had the row-4 and row-5 switch wires in it, and that fixed the double switch activations. So it would seem I got a faulty 10 opto board. I'll contact Pinball Life this morning for a replacement.

My main reason for writing is, why did the POA quit? Do to the POA boards rely on the 10 opto board to work? Or could my faulty 10 opto board have damaged the brand new POA boards?

Thanks for your guidance!

#5586 4 years ago
Quoted from swilson143:

I was lucky enough to join the club last week! I definitely could use your experience, working the kinks out.
The machine had been in storage a lot of years, so I'm working through the cobwebs. Prior owner had already sent the boards out and verified they're good. Then he replaced the POA motor driver and POA opto boards with Homepin units to get the POA working. I believe it was 100% functional when I got it home.
Shortly thereafter I started having issues with the idol ball lock. After cleaning optos and doing a bunch of research I ordered the 10 opto switch board (also homepin). I installed it yesterday. Everything worked normally with the new board, but only for a few minutes. Then I started getting some crazy stuff.
In switch test, if I activated a row-4 switch, the corresponding row-5 switch would also activate. (for example, pulling the gun trigger would also activate the left jet bumper switch) Vise versa was also true. The POA also went dead. When the machine tries to run the diagnostic, the POA PF does not attempt to move, and the display shows that the test failed.
While trying to solve the double switch activations, I pulled the connector off my 10 opto board that had the row-4 and row-5 switch wires in it, and that fixed the double switch activations. So it would seem I got a faulty 10 opto board. I'll contact Pinball Life this morning for a replacement.
My main reason for writing is, why did the POA quit? Do to the POA boards rely on the 10 opto board to work? Or could my faulty 10 opto board have damaged the brand new POA boards?
Thanks for your guidance!

In my experience the homepin poa opto board doesnt work at all

Its the wrong design.

Very many were sold, none of them actually worked.

Get a different one.

#5587 4 years ago

Has anyone installed the PinSound board on the IJ? Just wondering if theres a big difference in sound quality as its not a cheap upgrade. If its a drastic difference I'll probably pull the trigger on one .

#5588 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Has anyone installed the PinSound board on the IJ? Just wondering if theres a big difference in sound quality as its not a cheap upgrade. If its a drastic difference I'll probably pull the trigger on one .

This has been done by many people... You will find it all over the forums. It is a phenomenal upgrade.

#5589 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Has anyone installed the PinSound board on the IJ? Just wondering if theres a big difference in sound quality as its not a cheap upgrade. If its a drastic difference I'll probably pull the trigger on one .

Not sure how you’ve missed us all RAVING about it, but get a pinsound and new speakers and endprodukt’s mix and you’ll have an entirely new IJ experience.

#5590 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Not sure how you’ve missed us all RAVING about it, but get a pinsound and new speakers and endprodukt’s mix and you’ll have an entirely new IJ experience.

Thanks for advice...so what exactly do you think I need? Pin sound board, back box speakers, and Sub? who did u buy your speakers from?

#5591 4 years ago

I’m a big fan of PinWoofer myself. But anything is an upgrade. Get the stereo harness from pinsound or make one yourself if you’re handy.

#5592 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks for advice...so what exactly do you think I need? Pin sound board, back box speakers, and Sub? who did u buy your speakers from?

Pinsound sells a good set of speakers, but use can pretty much use any decent sub & back box speakers and it will be better than stock. I actually put some Rockford Fosgates into my cabinet.

Pinsound is the single best upgrade/mod you can do for your IJ, hands down

#5593 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Pinsound sells a good set of speakers, but use can pretty much use any decent sub & back box speakers and it will be better than stock. I actually put some Rockford Fosgates into my cabinet.
Pinsound is the single best upgrade/mod you can do for your IJ, hands down

Thanks...I appreciate the input...I think I'll just buy the pinSound speaker set as its pretty turn key....shipping is pricey to the USA $70 ...ouch

#5594 4 years ago

Maybe it's finally time to ask for help with an issue that has been plaguing my IJ since I bought it 17 years ago...

You know the left and right control gates at the back of the playfield that control the orbit? The right one works fine. Gate goes up, gate goes down.

The left one, however, goes up - but doesn't go down. Unless I push it down, or vibration eventually knocks it down. I can't see any visible problem with any parts, springs are all fine, but the resistance when I push it back down feels like it's being held up by...magnetism?

Is that a thing that can happen here? That a part has become permanently magnetised to the point that it constantly holds the gate up? How can I be sure? Is there an easy fix for this? Or am I off base?

#5595 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Maybe it's finally time to ask for help with an issue that has been plaguing my IJ since I bought it 17 years ago...
You know the left and right control gates at the back of the playfield that control the orbit? The right one works fine. Gate goes up, gate goes down.
The left one, however, goes up - but doesn't go down. Unless I push it down, or vibration eventually knocks it down. I can't see any visible problem with any parts, springs are all fine, but the resistance when I push it back down feels like it's being held up by...magnetism?
Is that a thing that can happen here? That a part has become permanently magnetised to the point that it constantly holds the gate up? How can I be sure? Is there an easy fix for this? Or am I off base?

Do you have a distinct left & right? It’s probably tough to get pics but curious what your gates look like

#5596 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Maybe it's finally time to ask for help with an issue that has been plaguing my IJ since I bought it 17 years ago...
You know the left and right control gates at the back of the playfield that control the orbit? The right one works fine. Gate goes up, gate goes down.
The left one, however, goes up - but doesn't go down. Unless I push it down, or vibration eventually knocks it down. I can't see any visible problem with any parts, springs are all fine, but the resistance when I push it back down feels like it's being held up by...magnetism?
Is that a thing that can happen here? That a part has become permanently magnetised to the point that it constantly holds the gate up? How can I be sure? Is there an easy fix for this? Or am I off base?

It’s a bitch to work back there ... especially with the ramp installed.

There should be a tiny bit of natural play in the flap. When it’s resting ... see if it has any back and forth play... then lift it up and see if it still has back and forth play. This will at least tell you that it’s not binding on the rod wire.

13
#5597 4 years ago

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.

4DA64899-5CE5-4E96-A920-4098AD280098 (resized).jpeg4DA64899-5CE5-4E96-A920-4098AD280098 (resized).jpegE04DE681-BB84-44C6-BFBC-662B78FBA9F5 (resized).jpegE04DE681-BB84-44C6-BFBC-662B78FBA9F5 (resized).jpeg0D1A80A2-6935-4932-A575-B4040AFBE3C7 (resized).jpeg0D1A80A2-6935-4932-A575-B4040AFBE3C7 (resized).jpeg
#5598 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome. Are you going to do the single target in the back of the machine as well? Would you mind posting a pic of the placement of the led strip? Thanks for sharing!

#5599 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

They look awesome....where did you install the LED strip? Yellow or Orange might look great. What about the other drop target?

#5600 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They look awesome....where did you install the LED strip? Yellow or Orange might look great. What about the other drop target?

Um.. I believe you just paraphrased my entire post which was right before yours

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