(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

6 years ago



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  • 6,053 posts
  • 442 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PappyBoyington
  • Topic is favorited by 211 Pinsiders

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There are 6053 posts in this topic. You are on page 115 of 122.
#5701 53 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I’m debating on getting a pinsound shaker or a pinshakers shaker for IJ. I already have the Pinsound + board installed. Any thoughts or feedback on either? Thanks!

#5702 53 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I’m debating on getting a pinsound shaker or a pinshakers shaker. I already have the Pinsound + board installed. Any thoughts or feedback on either? Thanks!

Great question....

#5703 53 days ago

PinSound shaker is going to give you the most flexibility in terms of shake events and shake duration. However it requires work on your part to configure your shake events.

Pinshaker is going to give you a very quick installation and configuration but will not have as much flexibility in shake events because it it’s connected to hardware signals vs. sound events like PinSound.

If I didn’t have PinSound already I would have gone Pinshaker. Shake for buck it’s a great value and super easy to get going.

#5704 53 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

PinSound shaker is going to give you the most flexibility in terms of shake events and shake duration. However it requires work on your part to configure your shake events.
Pinshaker is going to give you a very quick installation and configuration but will not have as much flexibility in shake events because it it’s connected to hardware signals vs. sound events like PinSound.
If I didn’t have PinSound already I would have gone Pinshaker. Shake for buck it’s a great value and super easy to get going.

I can hook a pinshaker motor in my IJ, even though I have a Pinsound+ board installed, correct?

#5705 53 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

I can hook a pinshaker motor in my IJ, even though I have a Pinsound+ board installed, correct?

Yes they are completely independent.

#5706 53 days ago

Finally made it to eternal life mode after a little over a year of owning this guy... 2 shots away from that billion, dang! Man this game is just stupid fun to play when you’re in the zone

EFA940B0-7A2B-4EC9-B4D9-A2AFFA119E6D (resized).jpeg
#5707 53 days ago

what do you think about this?

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#5708 53 days ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

what do you think about this?[quoted image]

Seems pretty weird to see it like that. Not bad, just weird. Personally, I like the image of Harrison Ford being closer to the original Amsel "Raiders of the Lost Ark" poster than the later Struzan "Last Crusade" likeness.

#5709 53 days ago

It's a magnet.

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#5710 53 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

It's a magnet.[quoted image]

Looks awesome!

#5711 53 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

It's a magnet.[quoted image]

Looks great...where did u buy it?

#5712 53 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Looks great...where did u buy it?

I made it.

#5713 53 days ago

Nice work...

#5714 53 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Nice work...

Thanks!

#5715 52 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

It's a magnet.[quoted image]

Looks great!

#5716 51 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I thought this was a cool idea and one of my drop targets was cracked so it was a good time for the change up. However, not sure if you ran into this issue, but the opto's would not recognize when the target was down and it baffled me for a bit. I had to paint the tab black and now they are recognized. Just in case others run into this issue, thought I would post this..

DropTarget (resized).jpg
#5717 51 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I thought this was a cool idea and one of my drop targets was cracked so it was a good time for the change up. However, not sure if you ran into this issue, but the opto's would not recognize when the target was down and it baffled me for a bit. I had to paint the tab black and now they are recognized. Just in case others run into this issue, thought I would post this..[quoted image]

Sharpie marker or sharpie paint pen.

#5718 51 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I thought this was a cool idea and one of my drop targets was cracked so it was a good time for the change up. However, not sure if you ran into this issue, but the opto's would not recognize when the target was down and it baffled me for a bit. I had to paint the tab black and now they are recognized. Just in case others run into this issue, thought I would post this..[quoted image]

Great intel...I was gonna swap mine out and actually light them up like a fellow pinsider showed....

#5719 50 days ago

real glass backglass
perfect print quality, better the the nos translite
IMG_1814 (resized).jpeg

#5720 50 days ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

real glass backglass
perfect print quality, better the the nos translite
[quoted image]

Neat!

But...why the transplanted head? As much as I love Drew Struzan's art, I'm pretty attached to the original Raiders look done by Richard Amsel (or, Doug Watson's interpretation of it in this case, anyway). Just curious as to why the change?

#5721 50 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I thought this was a cool idea and one of my drop targets was cracked so it was a good time for the change up. However, not sure if you ran into this issue, but the opto's would not recognize when the target was down and it baffled me for a bit. I had to paint the tab black and now they are recognized. Just in case others run into this issue, thought I would post this..[quoted image]

Yes, my apologies for not posting that you need to darken those tabs for the optos to recognize it. Thanks for posting!!

#5722 50 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Yes, my apologies for not posting that you need to darken those tabs for the optos to recognize it. Thanks for posting!!

Ha, no problem, just another good lesson for this semi noob pinball pinhead..

#5723 50 days ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

real glass backglass
perfect print quality, better the the nos translite
[quoted image]

Sorry, but that just looks weird. After 27 years with the original art work, which I'm a huge fan of, this new interpretation is off. JMHO.

QSS

#5724 50 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Ha, no problem, just another good lesson for this semi noob pinball pinhead..

By the way, a black sharpie WILL NOT work for the tabs. You must use paint or wrap in black electrical tape.

#5725 50 days ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

By the way, a black sharpie WILL NOT work for the tabs. You must use paint or wrap in black electrical tape.

I had painted mine black but good to know for others that a sharpie will not work...

#5726 49 days ago

Presented without further context.

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#5727 49 days ago

I'm have an error on the single drop target coil. Found this yellow wire which is really short and looks as if it was connected to the coil itself as there is an exposed wire from the coil...Is this a hack repair from the past? Thanks in advance for the help.

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#5728 49 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I'm have an error on the single drop target coil. Found this yellow wire which is really short and looks as if it was connected to the coil itself as there is an exposed wire from the coil...Is this a hack repair from the past? Thanks in advance for the help.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like they ran out of the original wire and just made an extension. I doubt this is causing the error

#5729 49 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Presented without further context.[quoted image]

I dig this ... a whole bunch !!!

#5730 49 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I dig this ... a whole bunch !!!

It's only 5 inches high to the top of the backbox. Unfortunately, the guy who makes them no longer seems to offer the Indy model - maybe he hit licensing issues. Glad I snapped this up when I had the chance - I've had this for years.

The guy who made it is Justin Whitlock, and you can see more of his stuff here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jgwhitlock/albums

#5731 49 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looks like they ran out of the original wire and just made an extension. I doubt this is causing the error

Thanks, so the wire coming off the coil connection point broke and they just soldered to the wire on the side of the coil. Time to order a new coil. Even though it is up and working now I do not like the Mickey Mouse fix.....

#5732 48 days ago

Need a little help trying to figure out a weak right ramp flasher. Tip 102 tested properly, good continuity to all the bulbs. Manual says it runs 3 89s but believe that to be a typo. I have two of those below the right ramp and one 906 in the green dome. I ran jumpers from the backbox directly to the 906 bulb and it was bright. I disconnected the lower two 89s and the green dome 906 was bright. All three hooked up, all dim. Changed with all fresh bulbs. All connectors seem good as well as solder joints.
Can some verify all three playfield bulbs flash (Flasher #26) and there is a 906 under the green dome.
Any ideas?

Thanks

#5733 48 days ago
Quoted from mike99:

Need a little help trying to figure out a weak right ramp flasher. Tip 102 tested properly, good continuity to all the bulbs. Manual says it runs 3 89s but believe that to be a typo. I have two of those below the right ramp and one 906 in the green dome. I ran jumpers from the backbox directly to the 906 bulb and it was bright. I disconnected the lower two 89s and the green dome 906 was bright. All three hooked up, all dim. Changed with all fresh bulbs. All connectors seem good as well as solder joints.
Can some verify all three playfield bulbs flash (Flasher #26) and there is a 906 under the green dome.
Any ideas?
Thanks

#26 is actually wired to four bulbs, the green dome and two under the ramp and one in the back box

#5734 48 days ago

Thanks Kornfreak. Gorgeous

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#5735 48 days ago
Quoted from rolandthoms:

Thanks Kornfreak. Gorgeous[quoted image]

My pleasure! Enjoy!

#5736 48 days ago

Anyone have an extra backglass they might consider selling me? For years my game has had a plastic translite with what appears to be a poster of the art taped to it. It's driven me nuts, and I think I am finally ready to replace it. Please PM me if you have one you might consider selling. Thanks.

#5737 48 days ago

So had nvram installed and rom updates, and put all my boards back in. Turn the machine on and the dmd is glitchy. Dots and gltiches. Reseated all the cables, replaced the f115 fuse, still glitching.

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#5738 47 days ago
Quoted from eb94114:

For years my game has had a plastic translite with what appears to be a poster of the art taped to it. It's driven me nuts, and I think I am finally ready to replace it.

Just for clarification...
All production Indys ONLY have a translite. If you see a real backglass for IJ, it's an aftermarket/fan creation.

Is yours a translite, or did someone replace the plastic translite sheet with an actual paper poster?

Don't want you to think your machine is somehow lesser, when it may be totally normal, and the same as most of us.

#5739 45 days ago

Anyone else have issues with the ball sometimes jumping out of the left ramp? It seems that a direct shot on the left ramp causes the ball to go so fast that it flies out of the wire rail, often hitting the biplane on the way out. Anyone figure out a good way to slow down this shot without breaking the flow of the ramp shot?

Here's a slow-motion video to show what I mean:

#5740 45 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Anyone else have issues with the ball sometimes jumping out of the left ramp? It seems that a direct shot on the left ramp causes the ball to go so fast that it flies out of the wire rail, often hitting the biplane on the way out. Anyone figure out a good way to slow down this shot without breaking the flow of the ramp shot?
Here's a slow-motion video to show what I mean:

For starters the ball is hitting the Lite Jackpot plastic which isn't good. Try moving the wire form to the right as much as possible without affecting how the ball lands on the inner lane.

#5741 45 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Anyone else have issues with the ball sometimes jumping out of the left ramp? It seems that a direct shot on the left ramp causes the ball to go so fast that it flies out of the wire rail, often hitting the biplane on the way out. Anyone figure out a good way to slow down this shot without breaking the flow of the ramp shot?
Here's a slow-motion video to show what I mean:

Also, if your wire form barely fits in the left ramp holes and you forced it in there, take it out and use a small round file to widen the holes a bit so the ramp is not forced into those holes, which could also have an effect on how the ramp ultimately sits.

#5742 45 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

For starters the ball is hitting the Lite Jackpot plastic which isn't good. Try moving the wire form to the right as much as possible.

In my tests, the ball hitting the Jackpot plastic isn't that common, but I bent it back up a bit to give it some extra clearance.

I have tried moving the wire form as far left, right, and even centring it as much as possible to see if which, if any, configuration helps with the issue.
Turns out, I have just as many fly-outs regardless of where it's placed. I had fewer fly-outs before I cleaned and waxed the playfield last week, which seems to have sped up the ball just enough to exacerbate the issue.

I'm considering strategically placing some foam at the top of the ramp to slow it down, but I wanted to see if anyone else has had a problem with this, and what they did to minimize it.

#5743 45 days ago

After pulling off an upset in the last round IJ really needs your support in the voting now to pull off another win.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/round-4-greatest-pinball-game-of-all-time-tournament-edition

#5744 44 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Anyone else have issues with the ball sometimes jumping out of the left ramp? It seems that a direct shot on the left ramp causes the ball to go so fast that it flies out of the wire rail, often hitting the biplane on the way out. Anyone figure out a good way to slow down this shot without breaking the flow of the ramp shot?
Here's a slow-motion video to show what I mean:

First of all.. that video is fun to watch! Perfectly shot!

Along the same lines... is the ramp just set back too far? Moving it forward may make it engage the wireform more so when the ball comes out of the ramp it may decelerate a bit more... because it should hit that first curve a bit more directly, absorbing some of its energy.

This stuff is nuts... it doesn't take much to change the physical behavior of things. I've always felt that it would be really fun designing a game and working out all of these types of physical issues.

#5745 44 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

First of all.. that video is fun to watch! Perfectly shot!
Along the same lines... is the ramp just set back too far? Moving it forward may make it engage the wireform more so when the ball comes out of the ramp it may decelerate a bit more... because it should hit that first curve a bit more directly, absorbing some of its energy.
This stuff is nuts... it doesn't take much to change the physical behavior of things. I've always felt that it would be really fun designing a game and working out all of these types of physical issues.

If anything, I feel the ramp might actually be set too far forward. Mine looks further forward than pics of other IJs I've seen, so that the metal flap slightly overlaps the ramp arrow on the playfield. I actually removed it recently to see if it had been moved from its factory position, but there was only one set of screw holes for the front flap.

My other suspicion was that the angle might be slightly off. The support post at the back that comes up from the INDY lanes doesn't line up directly with the screw hole in the tab on the ramp, I have to really pull the long metal spacer backward to align it with the hole, which pulls the angle of the ramp down ever so slightly. I thought the spacer might be the wrong length, but on double checking the manual, it's right.

It's a difference of millimeters, both in the ramp position and angle, but it might be enough to affect gameplay. I'm hesitant to drill new holes in the playfield, but I'll try anything that is non-destructive and non-permanent. I may just have to keep tweaking and testing what I can, there's just not a lot of leeway for adjusting either the ramp or the rail. I'm thinking something to either slow down the ball, or a guard to block the jump point.

#5746 44 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

If anything, I feel the ramp might actually be set too far forward. Mine looks further forward than pics of other IJs I've seen, so that the metal flap slightly overlaps the ramp arrow on the playfield. I actually removed it recently to see if it had been moved from its factory position, but there was only one set of screw holes for the front flap.
My other suspicion was that the angle might be slightly off. The support post at the back that comes up from the INDY lanes doesn't line up directly with the screw hole in the tab on the ramp, I have to really pull the long metal spacer backward to align it with the hole, which pulls the angle of the ramp down ever so slightly. I thought the spacer might be the wrong length, but on double checking the manual, it's right.
It's a difference of millimeters, both in the ramp position and angle, but it might be enough to affect gameplay. I'm hesitant to drill new holes in the playfield, but I'll try anything that is non-destructive and non-permanent. I may just have to keep tweaking and testing what I can, there's just not a lot of leeway for adjusting either the ramp or the rail. I'm thinking something to either slow down the ball, or a guard to block the jump point.

Not sure if this helps.. but this is where the #4 ramp screw positions are on my playfield...

IMG_3483 (resized).jpg
#5747 44 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Not sure if this helps.. but this is where the #4 ramp screw positions are on my playfield...[quoted image]

Thanks! I'm just going off memory, but I'm 90% sure my holes are in the lower half of this indentation, where yours are clearly further back. What to do about this? I just don't know.

Maybe I could use washers or spacers on the ramp support to slightly raise it up and make a steeper angle? Perhaps fighting gravity a bit more there would be enough to slow the ball down a smidge.

I love how punchy the flippers are on Indy, but that strength leads to all those crazy airballs and bounce-outs that this machine sees. It's why we need so many protectors and deflectors all over the place!

#5748 44 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

If anything, I feel the ramp might actually be set too far forward. Mine looks further forward than pics of other IJs I've seen, so that the metal flap slightly overlaps the ramp arrow on the playfield. I actually removed it recently to see if it had been moved from its factory position, but there was only one set of screw holes for the front flap.
My other suspicion was that the angle might be slightly off. The support post at the back that comes up from the INDY lanes doesn't line up directly with the screw hole in the tab on the ramp, I have to really pull the long metal spacer backward to align it with the hole, which pulls the angle of the ramp down ever so slightly. I thought the spacer might be the wrong length, but on double checking the manual, it's right.
It's a difference of millimeters, both in the ramp position and angle, but it might be enough to affect gameplay. I'm hesitant to drill new holes in the playfield, but I'll try anything that is non-destructive and non-permanent. I may just have to keep tweaking and testing what I can, there's just not a lot of leeway for adjusting either the ramp or the rail. I'm thinking something to either slow down the ball, or a guard to block the jump point.

If I were you, I would line up the ramp with the rear support post first and mark the flap holes. Then simply drill pilot holes and let the screws take care of the rest.

#5749 44 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If I were you, I would line up the ramp with the rear support post first and mark the flap holes. Then simply drill pilot holes and let the screws take care of the rest.

This is a good suggestion.

I've also seen variances in the wireforms. Specifically the guage of the wire. My replacement wireforms were significantly thicker than the ones I exchanged. Not sure if they were reproductions someone made at some point or variances in production over time. So there will be some delta among'st the population of games. Consequently you never really know if your game is 100% original ... most have them have been f****d with by someone at some point.

#5750 44 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This is a good suggestion.
I've also seen variances in the wireforms. Specifically the guage of the wire. My replacement wireforms were significantly thicker than the ones I exchanged. Not sure if they were reproductions someone made at some point or variances in production over time. So there will be some delta among'st the population of games. Consequently you never really know if your game is 100% original ... most have them have been f****d with by someone at some point.

When I got my machine, there were a few things which were clear: it had come from overseas, had long been routed, and still had almost all of its original parts.

One thing that really struck me was that, when the wireforms became tarnished, some operator decided to just spray paint them gold. As the machine got used, this led to a ton of gold dust flaking off into the machine. Oy, what a pain that was to clean out! But after stripping the paint and a good polish, those rails really came back to life.

I wonder what other "hacks" we've all had to deal with from previous owners?

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