(Topic ID: 68869)

IJ Williams "You Cheat, Dr. Jones!" Club


By RDReynolds

6 years ago



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#1407 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Went to install colordmd and never thought about my jackpot light board. Can anyone tell me what generation this is, I assume the first given its basic design,..(prototype maybe)??

It looks like a propto or sample.
Are the roms P-1.

I have a similar game and its a proto/sample with red boards and P-1 roms.

It has the jackpot light just like yours in a wooden block.

The only solution is to get the led converted jackpot light, or get the add on jackpot light and do the led fix for it.
Instructions are on the color DMD site.
Its possible that someone sells the adapted jackpot light bar with the skinny LED mod.

#1408 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Whoa. Proto or custom. I've never seen one like that. I have colorDMD in mine and it fit over my jackpot just fine.

You dont have the jackpot light, it was removed in production units.

I would get it though its a cool mod.

#1422 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Ahh ok thnx im starting to save up. I'm thinking my two pins this year will be Road show/Indiana Jones. Planning on buying a nice one and adding a shaker motor and colordmd

good luck on that pinbits is continuously out on the shaker motor...(I want one so bad...)

#1431 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Sounds like they could sell 3 this week...
If they where in stock!
By the way, thank you both!
I did not know about this till yesterday, then went and looked it up.

They could sell hundreds of these and the MM ones as well!
But they are ALWAYS! sold out....

2 weeks later
#1465 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

My wife was the first to score over a billion...she loves this game a lot more than she though she would...its the only game she plays right now...

Where did you get those nice quilted covers? They look great!

#1474 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

looks like mom in law is starting a pinside store

Im in ! Ill take half a dozen and 1 for my IJ

#1483 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I need one also, how do you remove and install the pin that secures it tho?

With a flat nosed punch and a firm surface.
I usually just hammer them out and back in over the open jaws of my bench vise.
But any solid surface will do like a block of wood.

1 week later
#1498 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

thanks.
I was leaning towards LCD b/c it has display modes to choose from. What are the advantages of the LED? I only got the LED b/c the game I bought it for didn't have LCD option so I know nothing about LED. I've owned all LCD color DMDs.

I like the LCD better, I think.
It seems smoother and maybe not as garish/bright?

It depends on how you set it up.

But I just maybe more used to LCD's in general

#1507 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Im going LED on my IJ on the recommendation of a few pinsiders...my decision was made a bit easier by learning that the LED fits better with the jackpot light board than LCD.

That alone is worth it IMHO...

2 weeks later
#1540 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Added a led strip across the back and a trough led strip today in warm white that Lermods made for me. Have a dimmer to put on the back led strip but waiting on decals for back wall before decide if its to bright. Going to add single spotlights on top of each sling to light the center of playfield better still.

I would add 2 spotlights to the top of each sling.
Its a wide PF, I would alo want to add at least 2 more spots higher up to get full coverage.
The problem is where to put the ones higher up....

#1542 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

heres a picture with center inserts lights off. the center is way to dark. im not sure about adding spotlights up the playfield anywhere but im sorta torn between double spots on each sling like you recommended or singles.
im just going to order double spotlights and if there to bright or look bad ill just make them singles.

Spots dont cast as much as you would think with all of the other lighting going on its sorta competitive.

As an example, look at WOZ. Tons of lights yet its dark. I took at least 6 spots to cover the PF in a lighting kit and still there are dark spots. It needs one or 2 more.

The TH has 4 12v spots and its about right but they are equally spaced about 11" apart. Still it could use a tiny bit more.

So, On The IJ I would say at least 6 spots but probably 7 equally spaced, some in pairs.

Again where to put them?

1 week later
#1574 2 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

got the double spotlight installed. comparing before and after pictures

Beautiful! Now maybe a touch more light on the ramps and POA?

2 weeks later
#1613 2 years ago
Quoted from Mike_M:

Here's some detail on my setup. In the first two pictures you can see a standard arcade gaming switched PS installed in my IJ. These can be had NIB for ~$20 on eBay. The AC power supply for the aux PS is provided via the machine's power switch so there is nothing extra to plug in or turn on/off.

I chose a slightly unusual place to connect the 120 volt AC input supply to the aux PS. I did not want to cut any of the original wires or modify the molex plugs that carry the 120 volt AC immediately after it goes through the machine's power switch. However if you follow that wiring you will see that one of the places the switched 120 volt AC power goes is to an unused molex plug near the coin door, which I believe is for a dollar bill acceptor (DBA.) I simply removed the necessary pins from this connector and spliced them into the aux PS input wires; simple enough to remove and return to original in the future if needed.

I ran separate runs of DC power to both the PinSound board and ColorDMD. Probably overkill; I'm sure I could have run a single wire for each rail and split them off in the backbox. Extra wire but I figured it was a cleaner method. The end of each run got a matching molex connector. Notice on the power input for the PinSound board there are two separate pins for +12 and -12; unlike the original IDC connector which simply looped the wires I ran separate lines. Again overkill but I didn't want to jam two wires into a single molex pin.

Thats good solid work there.
Not overkill at all in my opinion, people really shouldnt burden the old pc boards with more draw if they dont have to.

1 week later
#1645 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'm picking up a DMM after work, and I'll see what I can provide you from there. Should I be testing the fuses on the board, or off?

remove the fuse from the board and test it for continuity with an ohm meter or buzz box.

3 weeks later
#1715 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Just a quick opinion for those of us with less perfectionist tendencies. I put my new decals over the top of the old faded ones. I patched a few dings and sanded in some spots. But using this method, I didn't even have to remove the playfield! Just propped the playfield carefully and removed bolts and coin door, etc as it became necessary.
I totally respect guys that do it right (that pin is gorgeous). I would say that visually my quick method is indistinguishable from other methods. Just want to give some people hope who might not dare to try the full cabinet refurb (I have no such skills).

You did what operators have always done.
It's a perfectly acceptable way to do it.

The decals were released for exactly this purpose, a quick and easy fix for operators to freshen up routed, beat up games on location with little or no fuss.

And you can do it in minutes on location!

#1728 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

With the levellers cranked up all the way in the back, I barely get 6.5. I have to put rubber feet on the rear legs, and take the lock nut off the front levellers to get up to 7.
Also the rubbers on the flippers are brand spanking new. Guessing that adds to bounce?

There are longer levelers available if you need them

3 weeks later
#1937 2 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Finally working on mine again. Not sure I like these. Opinions.

I dont like that at all.

3 weeks later
#1983 2 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

The cc is nice, but I'm not a fan of the faked wood grain, I noticed it right away.

None of the wood grain will be seen when installed in a game, but it looks nice!
I really like the way the shooter lane repairs were addressed, really well done.

#1999 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I was under the impression that I only needed to drill out the clear inside the hole only? Not remove clear on the top of the hole like Skypilot did on that hole

Ron Kruzman recommends removing the clear all around screws and posts with small diamond dremel bits (that he sells for this purpose) or a very sharp countersink, or brand new american made brad tipped bits.
Then apply thin CA glue (with a fine syringe) to the exposed areas to firm up the wood and glue down any clearcoat edges.

This technique will avoid ghosting or cracking of the clear when screws and posts are tightened up.
Clearcoat can be rock hard in a lot of cases and not bend or flex when screws and posts are applied.
If the clear wont flex it will crack a little where pressure was applied.

It doesnt always happen but its worth mentioning.

Newly coated playfields have a little give to the clearcoat, ghosting is minimized.
5 year old coated playfields can be rock hard, ghosting can happen.

Ron admits he is a little Anal about this but he maybe right when it comes to one of a kind playfields and expensive restorations.

#2001 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks for the tip! I'm buying Ron's kit today. I'm also buying his glue kit. Is the glue supposed to be injected between the wood and the clear or anywhere the clear is exposed after drilling?

Yes, be careful with the glue, dont let it drip anywhere that you might see it. Although acetone should remove ca glue and not affect the 2PAC clear coat if there is an accident.

#2003 2 years ago

Drill point bits make a nice clean cut.
Dremel where you cant use a bit.

#2005 2 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

I finally got home an Indy game that has been sitting in an basement for over 10 years.
I set up the game, and everything is working! I will be shopping it out and giving it new decals.
The game already had the last plastic on it. Could it be an early production model?
The only thing that was missing was the gold legs, so I bought new ones. It came with both manuals and the goodie bag!
The game will be needing new rubbers, other than that, a light cleaning should do it. It plays great.
I have a slight problem. The direct switch in the coin door for volume up is not working. I have checked, and it is the switch that is dead. Is there any way to bypass the switch to make the volume louder?
Edit: doh! Just shorting the two connectors makes the switch activated....

If the POA rails are stainless instead of red plastic then its a sample or proto game.

i have a sample game and the rom number is P-1 also has a Proto serial number.

#2006 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

If the POA rails are stainless instead of red plastic then its a sample or proto game.
i have a sample game and the rom number is P-1 also has a Proto serial number.

And yes the lost plastic and backbox jackpot lights are live and installed.

1 month later
#2139 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Dead foam added to the mode start hole ball guide
Should I add more?

Quoted from beelzeboob:

Again...this is a design flaw that Mark Ritchie has acknowledged. Has nothing to do with making the game easier. And my game is pitched over 7 degrees to make it really fast. Why should I suffer and hate the game because of a design flaw? Fix the thing, pitch it the way you want, and enjoy.
If you had a scoop eject that shot the ball STDM, would you just leave it?

This current mod looks very much like a JJP outhole setup, sans the routed out rear area. It works perfectly.
I would put mylar over the paint in the rear of the hole, maybe 2 layers. Or use a modified steel Cliffy off a hobbit or WOZ for this area for protection.

1 week later
#2192 2 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

My Indy blew up in a strange way last night at the Cleveland Pinball and Arcade Show. Has a rottendog driver board, Pinsound and ColorDMD led. Played fine for 2 days. The women’s tournament wanted to use it and I obliged. They shut it off during someone else’s game and quickly turned it back on. No boot. No 5v. Fuse was checked and was good.
I assume it is the LM1085 regulator which isn’t a big deal or one of the large diodes that replicates the bridge recitifier.
My question is what the heck could have caused this to happen?
I swapped in an original WPC driver board I happen to have on hand and got the game back up and running.
Just looking for thoughts to prevent this from happening in the future.

Power surge + flaky power onsite. Maybe plug into a surge suppressor?

2 weeks later
#2273 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Door lock is out of stock in Germany, too.

Definitely make a few door locks if you can.
They have been out of stock for awhile.

#2280 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Looks great! I can do satin black no texture as well

I have a NOS original. It looks like black nickle naybe?

#2283 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

I prefer galvanized in black Chrom... vintage look.
Between gun and decal I placed a selfmade protector to prevent that the gun sticks to the decal and damage it if the gun must be removed concerning a faulty switch.

I do like the look of the black chrome.

#2327 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I've got a prototype anyone know anything about these? How many were made? etc..

Its probably a sample game?
Prototypes are often unfinished and have stickers for playfield items.

After prototyping these games are often redone to become samples or even production models.

Does it have red pc boards? and stainless POA rails and the lights for the jackpots in the speaker panel?

Mine sample has these and the ROM version is P-1, also a proto serial number on the back.

If the game is all stock and in good condition its somewhat collectible.

#2332 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice job! Do you recommend installing Mylar where the ball drops from the mini playfield saucers?

Round mylar disks should always be applied where the ball drops, in between the pop bumpers and anywhere the ball falls off a ledge.

3 months later
#2775 1 year ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Me too before the box gets to heavy : )

If theres room for one more count me in please!

2 months later
#3000 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Hello,
I have 3 upgraded raw panel (ready to cut jackpot shapes), and 9 request:
Psw757 - original
TractorDoc - upgraded
MikeHogue - upgraded
Tonycip - upgraded
Konajack - upgraded
Ericpinballfan - upgraded
ck1sport - upgraded
Rdoyle1978 - upgraded
Konajack - upgraded
I have to receive 6 more panels. The supply is very slow, this is not his main profile... Once I have a confirmation about estimated time of arrival, I will contact all of you about a small deposit.
I hope you guys can wait, it makes sense to do it at once and send as one package.

Add me to the list please!

If it's not too late...

1 week later
#3023 1 year ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Finally got around to cutting the DMD panel for the jackpot lights. Cut to the exact shape with a coping saw. No half measures! I also blocked between them with foam to prevent light bleed from the bright LEDs. Beautiful result!

Here it is in action:
» YouTube video

That's exactly what I want on both my games.

2 weeks later
#3044 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Great news, thanks for sharing! Never quite understood why they can't seem to keep that thing serviced and working 100%.

There's a plastic insert for the ball trough that works pretty good also

2 weeks later
#3076 1 year ago
Quoted from sprite:

The ball jumps out of the wireform a lot of times on a clean shot to left ramp on mine. Anyone else experience this?

Raise the pitch of the game a little since the ball is travelling too fast.
Bending the wireform up a little or adding washers under the mounts in a couple places to give it some "bank" will also correct this. Either way a couple tweaks here and there has worked well for me.
I have it at near 100%

1 week later
#3087 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Hey guys. Just recently sold an IJ to a pinsider, and after moving it the idol drop target sometimes doesn’t drop down. It seems to work OK during test, and sometimes works correctly in the game, but mostly it will just buzz and the target will not drop.
The mechanism moves freely by hand, and there doesn’t appear to be any resistance like mechanical binding. Any ideas would be helpful.

Things that have happened to me:

The mech Might be loose.
Missing or broken or incorrect return spring
Binding or debris in the channel of the plastic target.

Release latch on the solenoid bent or worn.

Target worn and not touching the release tab.

Drop target assembly incorrectly assembled, missing washers etc.
So that the coil cant reach the target

#3107 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks - I am pretty sure I did this but I will check again..

On one of my IJ's I had to bend the metal opto interrupter on the POA laterally to get it to work equally in both directions.
It was tough and I had to mount it in my vice firmly to kick it off center 1/8".

There was no other adjustment that would work on this particular game.

On a lot of games, the POA tilts 23 degrees left and 10 degrees right, this doesnt play right in my opinion.

After this adjustment I could get full motion left and right to make the game play correctly.

#3112 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Guys, need your advise: assembly with or without playfield protector (and why)?

Only if you plan to sell it.

#3130 1 year ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

Unfortunately it's a regular playfield. The stainless POA must have been added at some point. I'm guessing a prototype got parted out.

The samples and red-board prototypes also have the 3 jackpot lamps in the backbox as well as the lost plastic factory installed.
I have both a proto and a production one.

#3136 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks. For the mode hole what else is available as I don't believe mantis makes them. Maybe just put some mylar around it?

Mylar carefully cut to fit the inside edge and a little outside the hole.

2 weeks later
#3156 1 year ago

Look great! Cant wait to get mine.

#3169 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

anyone know where you can get this snake but in the US? Goes on the left ramp by flasher....
https://www.pinball.co.uk/product/indiana-jones-1993/cobra-snake-mod-for-indiana-jones/

Just order it if you want it.
Phil will have it to you in a few days. They are a good group.

2 weeks later
#3204 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Quick update about IJ wooden panels: panels are ready to send. Next week I am going to buy specific boxes, and contact buyers about payment.
A big thank you to TractorDoc, he will take care of shipping in US.

YAY! I cant wait to get my set of 2.

4 weeks later
#3281 1 year ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

First batch of panels is/are boxed up and on their way. The skinny box on top is heading to Canada -- bigger packages cost more to ship across the border.
[quoted image]
I'll send recipients a PM with tracking number and shipping costs.
Second batch will go out next week.

I cant wait !

#3332 1 year ago

Maybe have those little boards cloned by 1 of the PC board guys in China. They are cheap fast and efficient.

#3337 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Without wire and plug!
Price is ~$36 at Pinball Center.
[quoted image]

Way cheaper to clone it I think, make a couple of adjustments to avoid copyright disputes.

#3340 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

This is ready and available. Now.
For low volume, makes no sense to run a repro, unless time is not an issue.
Cost of 1st PCB: 50$
Cost of 10th PCB: 8$
Easy board, but gerber creation requires time.
Part sourcing requires time.
Soldering requires time.
Maybe you can save some $ at the end, but precious time is running.

Yes I was thinking along the lines of 100 or 200 units.

1 week later
#3397 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Cut my own decals today for planes! Lots of work but I think these are going to look really nice
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

1 week later
#3488 1 year ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

wow, that's sweet... Quick question- does anyone know where I can find a used idol lock molded plastic idol? they seem to be hard to find, unlike my TOTAN genie lamp, which is sold everywhere... Was this part re-produced? I want to have Hot Rod do a brass plated one, but don't want to cannibalize my game for it.... Thanks!

well here it is:

ebay.com link » Vintage Williams Indiana Jones Pinball Replacement Tiki Idol Head A 16708

#3491 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Ouch...$500 bucks?
Says 2 available.

Well you might need a spare of a spare....

#3493 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

I am trying to find the Rotor Lock part number 03-8844.
Is it really sold out everywhere?

Yes, NLA until someone makes more.

Rick might have the molds.

#3506 1 year ago
Quoted from Maide:

Tried to install a set of art blades tonight and failed miserably. There's not enough of a gap between my playfield and the edge to get it far enough down without it getting stuck, even with the wet-back trick. There didn't seem to be a position I could move the playfield where it wasn't in the way. Wasting so much money is really depressing.

Put them back onto the bacing material wet as best as you can.

Remove the playfield and try again.

3m 77 spray adhesive will refresh the glue if necessary.

Any creases or wrinkles or small tears will rub out with a brayer.

All is not lost until you give up.

#3508 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremen:

I need to replace some #89 flasher bulbs which are on wedge base. I am having difficulty finding them. Is the replacement #906 bulbs, like listed here: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=32 Thank you!

No the 906 is a larger bulb and not the same.
All of my #89 bulbs have a bayonet base, what is this for?

#3510 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

#89 is bayonet
#906 is wedge base
Few #906 is required, like under Eternal Life insert[quoted image]

Is there a led replacement for #906 bulb?

#3513 1 year ago
Quoted from Fremen:

A few of the flashers i am looking at are the dogfight hurry up, and the left and right ramp bulbs under the green plastic. In my manual they are all listed as #89. And they are definitely all wedge bases. look about the same as the eternal life. Maybe i looked at my manual wrong and they are #906

The number is often written on the base of the bulb but sadly not always.
I think you're looking for the number 906 bulbs they have the wedge bases.

Get the LEDs have a longer duty cycle and run much cooler and don't destroy your game like hot incandescents will.

#3518 1 year ago
Quoted from Duvall:

What is "no longer"? What was "no dice" last week? The attraction?????

The highly modified Indiana Jones pinball machine at the attraction in Disneyland Los Angeles

1 week later
#3546 1 year ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Generic flipper question, but it happened on my IJTPA so I'm posting here.
I've been playing with no issues until very recently. Over the last few games the right flipper has been losing power until now it has stopped working altogether. Breaking the beam on the opto board with a screwdriver does not register in switch test. The problem stays on the right even when you swap opto boards. Left flipper is good and strong, so not a fuse.
Any thoughts?

Swap the flipper boards to see if the problem moves to the other side first, to see if it's a board problem.

If it remains the same, check the wires for a break or looseness on a idc connector.

#3554 1 year ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Swapped the boards already with no change, also played around with the connectors. I would understand this approach if they just stopped working, but not if they gradually lost power over a few games.

Send the board out for repair and bullet proofing maybe.

#3572 1 year ago
Quoted from andrewket:

IJ is my first 90's pin (until now oldest pin was Tron or ST), so forgive the basic question: Where can I find NIB boards? Do you have to pull the ROMs from the old boards? Given the power supply issues I've just read when adding Color DMDs and other mods, do people generally replace the power supplies with new, more modern equipment?

NIB aren't really neccessary.
Send your boards to one of the guys here that tests and bulletproofs them.
They will last another 20 years.

One of the issues that comes up is that the aftermarket boards play differently. Sometimes better, sometimes worse depending on ones perspective of course.

I'm a fan of the originals.

That said however, the connectors on these games all have to be replaced and upgraded to the trifurcon style connection.

This would be true even if you bought all aftermarket boards.

#3575 1 year ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelb:

OK, I've been doing a bunch of testing and reading. I have no power coming to the Green wire J120-10. In fact, I've metered all the combinations on J120 and J121 and the voltage is all at 4.9v and lower. Shouldn't the voltage be reading right around 6.8v off everything?
QSS

Open up a new thread and someone will chime in.

#3577 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is it normal for the plunger to be a bit off center? I just don’t see any other way....
[quoted image]

Should be centered.

Make sure its assembled correcty.
Side cut the mounting bracket holes with a dremel just enough to center the mech.
Looks like about 1/16".

Or bend the bracket a bit.

I'd sidecut the mounting holes plus bend the bracket a tiny bit to get it perfect.

But see if the plunger is centered on a ball before doing anything.

#3590 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What’s the best way to fix this? Do I need a new connector? Can I just reinsert the wire? If so, How? This is one of the trough connectors. Thanks!
[quoted image]

You can just pull out the wire and reinsert it but, old IDC connectors are the bane of pinball. They just are not as good as one would want after 25 years.

Since it's off the trough, I would replace the connector with the trifurcon type.

Maybe look at the pins on the opto board if it's original and replace those too.

I have been repinning and replacing connectors on all boards on all games throughout.

Old IDC is just no good.

#3593 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I wouldn't mind trying to insert the wire first before moving on to a trifurcon type connector. I have pinned them before. I have never removed or inserted a wire into an IDC connector though Opto boards are brand new.

Rip the wire out of the connector.

Trim off the bad parts of the wire.

Force the wire back in with a credit card.

Force the rest of the way down with a small screwdriver or IDC insertion tool:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/idc-156f-wire-insertion-pinball-tool

Check continuity with an ohmmeter.

If the stiff 20 year old insulation cuts through you will have a connection.

#3594 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

As most of you probably know, I'm about to fire up my IJ for the first time in a LONG time due to my never-ending, but very rewarding restoration. We all know how much of a PITA those POA LED's are to get to and replace. Is it possible to leave the POA out of the game when I fire it up for the first time so I can easily get to any LEDs that are not working? Is this going to give me an error or credit dot? Thanks!

It will give you at error but for testing it will be fine.

1 week later
#3623 1 year ago

Check it in coil test.

Check that the wires are connected to the coil.

Check the cleanliness and alignment of the post, coil sleeve, coil stop etc.

Make whatever adjustments needed to make the post moves very free and loose.

It doesn't take much to jam it.
It returns via a spring only.

Make sure it drops with a ball resting on it.

Check to see how it works in coil test.

#3626 1 year ago

Might be the game rom. Swap it for another.

Could also be a loose/weak connector not getting a signal during a mode. Especially after an extended play session.

Are all of the cables and connectors original?

If it does actually work once in awhile I suspect a loose pin or weak /oxidized connector.

#3628 1 year ago
Quoted from JMK:

@ Pinballreno: I believe all the cables and connectors are original. Everything looks nortmal in the area. It was a high end restoration game but I will re-check the connector.
Just very strange that the mini pf post only malfunctions during the Eternal Life Wizard Mode and yet works perfectly during all other modes and gameplay.
Perhaps swapping in a different game rom could show if my current rom is compromised.
Thanks again for the assistance.

Swapping the game rom would be a cheap and easy fix, if it works. Not all rom chips are the same. Try a different vendor.

#3633 1 year ago
Quoted from per3per3:

What's up folks. My IJ has the common ball swirl marks near the slings (pics included) and I figured I'd post to see if anyone has found success using the magic eraser and iso alcohol technique (or any other suggestions) to remove or at least seriously diminish them? I've read that there is a risk of removing paint from the playfield and I don't have any experience with touch up painting and not looking to have to do that.
Anyone have some successful tips to share?
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The idea is to pull out the dirt without pulling off the paint.

Dont use ME and alcohol unless you are doing a restoration.
It's like sanding the paint. It destroys the clearcoat.

Try some waterless cream cleaners to get it as clean as possible then mylar over the area to buy time until the next restoration.

Citrus cleaners like goo gone, lighter fluid (naptha), and a fine or soft brush.

I have even had good results with silly putty left on for a couple days to pull out dirt.

#3646 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Has anybody installed this mode bracket version from mantis? Does it really work? Thanks!
Disclaimer: I do not wish to start a new discussion on the mode start hole
[quoted image]

I installed it, works pretty good. I ended up bending it down just a hair.

#3648 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What's your percentage of successful shots to the mode hole?

After adjusting it a bit, near 100%, but this includes lots of adjustments throughout the game including leveling.
Also using superbands to eliminate bounce off the flippers.

But the other fix of removing it altogether is probably better and more rock solid.

JJP has implemented the scoopless gobble hole in all of their games. Its extremely effective and works 100%. Plus one less part to wear out and fall off.

#3653 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

What about starpost lights? Indy has 10 starposts around the center insert area.

I really like the lighted star post idea, but I want to divert the light on them internally.

Maybe paint inside or some kind of sleeve inside so that the light can be directed away from the players view?
Or maybe a clear window or lens on one side?

#3655 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

[quoted image][quoted image]

That doesnt look too bad at all!

#3656 1 year ago

What about the little 3" add-on LED strips that are being sold?
You can carve out lane guides or put them in a lot of places.

#3669 1 year ago

Mirco will probably make playfields coming up.

#3677 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

For those of you that removed the mode hole stop bracket and installed the dead foam. Do you think this is enough? Need more? Too much? There’s 3 pieces in there. The screws don’t stick out. Thanks!
[quoted image]

It looks about right.

#3681 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I have the correct screwus for that area but they stick out too much and the ball will be hitting them constantly. Did you guys (with the foam) install the hex head screws?

If there is nothing attached to them, you dont need the screws at all.

If you are just filling holes, flat head flush mounted screws are ok.

-1
#3684 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Hey guys, really enjoying the restoration posts so I thought I would contribute. Goal is to do the most over the top IJ restoration possible...with my amateur skillset being the only limiting factor. Lol. Want to say thanks to guys like high_end_pins and bryan_kelly for being so generous with the tips/tricks of the trade. I'm just a hobbyist and a hack at best and do this for fun and relaxation. Would appreciate any feedback from owners on other ideas/tips. You guys think this thread is appropriate for posting updates throughout the process?
Before Pics of Playfield (not great but show some of the issues, including a crack on left side):
[quoted image]
After Pics of Playfield Restoration (one of the most mind boggling things to me was how he repainted the yellow to orange gradients coming out of the center around Indy's face....look better than original):
[quoted image]
Chrome, chrome and more chrome (too much?):
[quoted image][quoted image]
Making new ramp flaps:
[quoted image]
Regraining all ramps and ball guides:
[quoted image]

Maybe start your own restoration thread?

#3690 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

That’s probably the right thing to do. However, my skills aren’t worthy of a dedicated thread. I’ll post the final result here when done. Thanks

If you get into trouble on something, please ask for help here!

#3701 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Is there a chance that reproduction playfields will be available one day?

Yes. Mirco is ready just need permissions.

1 week later
#3750 1 year ago
Quoted from gac:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I dunno about the orange on orange. Seems like too much orange to me.

Maybe white rubber?

But if you like it, go for it!

#3755 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Personally I think the orange looks pretty good. White is old and boring.

Yeah I might be a little old school that's for sure lol.

But I guess I was looking for more contrast here and there?

Either way it looks sharp!

1 month later
#3835 1 year ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

Mirco is in a position to reproduce the mini playfield for IJ and is looking to gauge interest. The artwork has been ready for quite a long time. The main playfield is waiting for licence approval as most are probably aware. The mini pf doesn't have copyright restrictions like the main playfield does and he can actually start producing them as soon as next week. Is anyone interested?

Ill take 2.

#3837 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Not sure what the hurry would be, Won't this be sold as a set when finished? Yes, I want one, and I see light at the end of the tunnel for the main playfield. Then when main playfield is done will I end up with a second POA?

Probably.

I need 2 complete sets of playfield and POA.

#3842 1 year ago
Quoted from ScottoKong:

Hey All
I'm going to commit to joining the club.
Got a lead on a potential machine that I'm told had parts taken from it to keep another alive.
Just wondering what parts if any are hard to replace/find?
Any Motors or Mechanisms?
Cosmetic stuff like plastics, speaker panels, translates seem readily available??
Scotto

Sounds like a fun project!
I would get it.

4 weeks later
#3876 12 months ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Seems like my idol motor and gear box is failing. Opts and switches all check out. But it seems when theres 3 balls locked in or sometimes 2 it doesnt have the torque to rotate the balls, also when I turn it by hand there no tension. I'm guessing it's the gearbox?

Take it apart and clean out all the dried grease, spray it off with wd-40, regrease it with white lithium grease.
Check for any broken gears, probably ok really.

#3880 12 months ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Motor works fine.

I got it out of the machine and disconnected the motor from the gear box. When I spin the shaft the gears only spin occasionally at random, plus the box is riveted together. I'm guessing one of the gears has broken off the main shaft. I had a dr who that had the same issues so I'm just going to replace it.

Drill out the rivets and replace them or bolt it back together.

#3881 12 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

What about WD-40 dry lube PTFE spray instead?

The new clear silicone grease with PTFE is really good.

These pinball gearboxes rarely see enough traffic to wear out.

However seized gearboxes can break I guess.

It's the gear on the motor shaft that mostly wears out due to seized gearboxes from hardened grease.

There's just not that much going on inside the gearbox for it to wear out.

It's easier and cheaper to get a motor with gear on it that a new gearbox.

#3883 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Both my indy's flippers are dead.
Initially they were intermittent.
I then pulled the flipper opto's apart and cleaned with a cloth sprayed with alcohol spray and put them back in and they don't work at all now. Reseated the connectors on both flippers and on the main board.
Did a coil check and flipper coils themselves seem fine. Question : when the "hold" test happens should the flipper bats move up quickly or slowly?
My left one raises slow but the right is even slower. Normal power test they shoot up quickly like normal. I'd never run that test before so I didnt know what to expect.
I've checked all the fuses on every board (without removal) and they seemed fine. Reseated every connector on the fliptronics board and powered on again. No change.
I then pulled all the fused on every board and retested. I broke the fuse in f101 (doh). So i'll have to see if I can find a replacement tomorrow as the 3A were the only ones I didn't have on hand.
Failing that what else should I check?

Replace the broken fuse.
Remove the coil stops and inspect the plungers, sleeves and springs. Clean as you go.

Check for any mechanical binding first. They should move freely and have a little bit of play in and out if you pull on them.

#3886 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Replaced fuse.
Pulled every other fuse and checked resistance with a meter. All good. Checked tp1,2 and 3 on the power board and they’re all good.
Flippers were rebuilt about 150 games ago, checked them anyway and they move freely. They test fine in the test menu.
Oh well looks like more googling :/

Check flipper button switches?

#3888 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Is there a good way to test the flipper opto boards? Seems coincidental that both are out at the same time.

Might be time to take some voltage readings at the flipper coils.

Maybe the problem is a loose, broken or corroded pin, contact or wire.

Check EOS switches and gaps?

4 weeks later
#3913 10 months ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

[quoted image]

Hand reproduced POA rails?

#3922 10 months ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Send PM if you are interested.
Color your choice
[quoted image]

Do these rails light up or are they opaque?
Im in if they are close to the originals but better!

1 week later
#3943 10 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Received my custom air-ball guard plastic from Davi today.
VERY VERY NICE!!! Professional quality product!
Can’t wait to put this into play ... one day when I get my machine back together!
Thanks Davi!!!
[quoted image]

Just got mine also.
Fast shipping, beautiful piece of craftsmanship.
Super tough and well concieved.

#3973 10 months ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

Ah that makes perfect sense. I see where this is going. I will try to gently sand the pins and maybe I'll see if I can thin-tin the pins with a solder cover in order to gain a slighter higher conductive coating. I'm rather hoping that what should be a noticeable drop in draw from the LEDs might save the board a trip to the pinball doctor. Very much appreciate your thoughts and explanation on this
Did you have any thoughts on whether I could marginally knock down the power of the coils with a resistor across the terminals? Is that possible / legal / immoral or fattening?

tinning is a very short term solution, it fails after awhile.

repin the board, its not too hard and fairly quick, or send it out.
replace the connector.

make sure you have the correct coils. If so, leave them alone.

#3979 10 months ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

They are definitely stock coils, both on the flipper and kickers. Also in very good condition. I find it hard to believe it's not related to the LED upgrade however as the power of the flippers have increased substantially since then to the point I'm concerned about what I'll break with the extra power. Balls are flying off things at a significant rate which didn't happen before the LEDs were installed. I didn't want to put in lower power coils as I'm sure the opposite will happen and I'll be stuck with flips that can't make the POA - usual story
I'll see if I can find a fellow in AUS to deal with the board. I'm sure there's a few specialists who handle these sorts of boards, but they are getting thinner everywhere.

Ill also check this out to see what's happening here. Anything that helps here would be great.

Yes please! If you have details I'd be grateful for a PM

If the game plays too fast increase the pitch a little.

#3986 10 months ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

Forgot to respond to this. The machine is almost at full tilt. Certainly above the norm. I don't want to make it too easy for the kids!

Use a digital torpedo level or a cell phone app to accurately set the pitch of the playfield wood itself, not the glass.

7 to 7.5 degrees is what a lot of people have.

Mine is 6.9 degrees.

#4001 10 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Bye bye guys, been a short trip with you.
But even if the theme and story are great, I was not catched by the gameplay.
Back to LOTR and TSPP..

Too bad it wasn't for you, someone is going to get a great game!

1 month later
#4088 9 months ago
Quoted from Mnluz:

Now I need a motor and some lights , ideas ?
Same scale and size of the original one
[quoted image]

That looks great, which model is it?

#4109 8 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I cut thin strips of adhesive felt and attach them in 4 spots in the side of the playfield... never had a scratch since

In my case the big metal part stuck out beyond the playfield and scratched it a bit. Felt wouldnt have been enough to save it. Bending it in a bit solved it but too late lol.

1 week later
#4137 8 months ago
Quoted from Kirk332:

A picture tells says a 1000 words, here’s 2000!
I’m at work at the moment and not home for a couple of days so might have to wait for exact measurements. They are definitely not a pinball spring though, as I mentioned earlier they are from a spring kit.[quoted image][quoted image]

The idea is super sound.

It just has to be pinball hardened!

The screws in the wood will hold up but not very long.

You will need to drill through the playfield, set t-nuts or lock nuts with washers.

Trade out the screws for either round or hex playfield posts with top and bottom washers and screws.

2 posts would fo it.

Drill the holes in the bracket bigger or make a better one.

A thin metal cliffy underneath as a pivot will last 1000's of games of hard abuse.

Very sound inertia damper idea!

Another idea was to move the bracket back slightly and mount a loose backplate to the back wall.

The heavy loose steel plate would also dampen inertia and hang down at a slight angle to deflect the ball downward. 1/8" steel plate would do it.

Much like hanging chains in a batting cage.

Basically a steel dampener instead of a rubber pad.

#4143 8 months ago
Quoted from gac:

Is it just me? I have so much difficulty getting beyond the first hole on the path of adventure. Seems no matter how I tilt the playfield, I end up dropping through. Any suggestions?

Install washers under it to balance it more to the side that's not level.

It takes a bit if adjustment to make it work right.

Typically you cant get the ball to fall either left or right after the post drops

Adjust until you can do either.

Also, check if it tilts more one way than the other. This can also be adjusted with some tweaking.

Lower the playfield pitch a bit to make it go a little slower down the POA.

#4147 8 months ago
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:

Anyone happen to have a set of silkscreen decals they are willing to part with? Even if it’s just the left hand main cabinet side?!

Contact Rick at pps.
He has a ton if one side of the cab as well as some with the line error.

I can't remember what side.
Ask sara.

1 week later
#4191 8 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Agreed, another LCD fan. The mine video mode in smoothing, its a live cartoon, best video mode in pinball!

LED vs LCD is really hard to decide.

I think it depends on the game a lot.

I have LCD in my ToM, but my DW has LED.

I have to agree that LCD might be good on IJ due to a lot of the animations.

DW is an older title and gains a bit from the retro look of the LED in my opinion.

2 weeks later
#4258 7 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

The original idol lock is unobtainium.
This 3D printed version is available (yellow/gold, left side).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have a link to those?
I could use one.

#4284 7 months ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx for info
Who sells the nicest cab art? The Indy I’m looking at is pretty faded

Hard to get right now.

Next gen OEM are the best.

The other fake ones are ok but not correct.

1 month later
#4426 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I tried looking for the correct lamp socket and couldn’t find it anywhere! Still planning to add it at some point

Marco should have it

1 week later
#4452 5 months ago
Quoted from Haggy38:

Hi guys,
I'm looking for these parts for my Indiana, Marcos doesn't haven't on stock. Thanks.
Gustavo[quoted image][quoted image]

Try action pinball

1 week later
#4477 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Hmm, maybe this divot is the issue? How in the Hell would that possibly get there?
Not sure if I knock it out or fill it. I also see somebody 3D printed a ramp wedge that fits inside which may solve this issue permanently
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3657488[quoted image][quoted image]

Just hammer them down and sand flat.

#4491 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Can somebody confirm this EOS diagram is correct(or incorrect) for IJPBA? Mine is just the opposite and the EOS switches are flipped so when you activate the flipper, the EOS is closed.[quoted image]

WPC fliptronic games the EOS should be normally open.

Its probably installed wrong on both sides, or backwards.

Did someone downgrade the game to non-fliptronics?

It happens.

#4497 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

And with that, too all my fellow IJ'ers. Here is some deep thoughts while you are playing pinball over the 4th to think about if you are contemplating putting brand new decals on your IJPBA[quoted image][quoted image]

Color is overrated.

#color blindness rocks!

#4509 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Also, do you guys have a nylon ring to keep the shaft aligned inside this bracket hole? I don’t see it listed in the manual but seems like maybe that can short if not? I’m just guessing[quoted image]

Are you talking about the coil sleeve? I'm at a loss...

The coil sleeve should be flanged and go thru the bracket hole.

The sleeve that came with the coil is probably the wrong sleeve for this application.

#4512 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

I was just wondering if it had a nylon sleeve like the diverter shaft does. It looks like this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8790
Either way, that's least important issue. Can you confirm you have the same Coil number? (AE-26-1500). I assume its the same but just wanted to be sure[quoted image]

Those are called nyliners.

It's not used there.

Looks like the correct coil.

#4514 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Ok, thanks. Yeah I’m starting to think it’s the knocker. Since I’ve disconnected it on had 1 outage. Seems like this Gate was also causing it but after I disconnected/reconnect the 50v wires, haven’t had an issue correlated with the gate going down. I might have to re-solder all the Purple yellow 50v connectors as I believe one of them might also be causing the short

Cover your connections with shrink tube if in doubt.

That's what I do.

You might have a short down stream from the coil.

You have to go through the harness and everything in that circuit.

#4522 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Yeah I traced it and nothing stands out. I’m going to replace the knocker coil as it looks toasted, might just be shorted. Consistently when I was cracking games it would blow the fuse. I played for 5 hours last night with it disconnected and it stayed on fine

Your coil looks smoked.

Replace that first.

Flipper fatigue on a 5 hour marathon is not unknown.

Check how hot the flipper coils are getting after a couple hours.

Small fans on the coils can help.
Check out the lotr fan mods.

#4524 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Where is the best place to buy a Rottendog flliper board for IJ?

I don't think it's your board, it looks fine.

#4526 5 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Yeah, I think I need to re-visit the flipper assembly. I noticed there was a lot of play in the left flipper which may be the culprit. If I Road & Track everything to spec then I might just get the Rottendog. It’s only $60 so worth having it regardless. If I don’t figure it out after than, I’m calling in the pros

Maybe cracked flipper bushing.

1 week later
#4552 4 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

First of all, THANKS A LOT to everyone who responded in this thread so far, much appreciated!
I never thought that it was an issue from the other side, so thanks for opening my eyes. That said, I couldn't really notice anything "wrong" with the right side rail, but maybe someone else can compare to their own machine and let me know if you notice anything "off". Pics attached...
PS: I did notice that the white rubber behind the slingshot was placed over the metal rod (where the ball hits) and I thought that was the issue, since the ball was initially going directly into that metal rod. I placed the white rubber back over the metal rod...but the problem kept happening.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bend the end if the flatrail very slightly until balls roll thru the narrow escape cleanly from the idol exit. Roll them by hand.

The wire gate should be one way and have no binding but be free and loose.

#4557 4 months ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Hey guys, I noticed a few days back that the led ENT & lock/center shot lights on my IJ are all out (see pic). All other playfield lights including the led that lights the center shot area are all working fine.
Any ideas why this group of lights would all be out? Is there a fuse that controls those lights that may be blown?[quoted image]

Wire fell off?

1 week later
#4571 4 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I would start with simple green and some elbow grease you would be surprised what that will accomplish and non abrasive

Better off with VM&P naptha on a rag instead of simple green.

Cleans better and wont raise the grain of the playfield or damage anything..

Water based cleaners are bad if you have to use a lot of it.

#4582 4 months ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Alright, got my IJ back together, but the issue i had before the tear-down is still there.
It'll work for a bit, then in the middle of a game, the display will go out and then it will just start launching balls in a never ending loop. If you power the game off and back on, then as it's sitting there, display will be out, it sounds an error (but you can't see it since the display is out) and it'll launch all 6 balls, and the coil in the subway release will just keep firing. If you start a game, then it just goes into launch ball mode.
I did check for 5v at the display. I have a ColorDMD installed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Put the old display back in and see if the problem goes away.

#4629 4 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Thanks. My phone says I'm a 7.5. It doesn't play like it's that steep.
Another quicky....what is the skill shot?
(i only got to play a couple games last night)

7.5 is a little steep.

Sometimes the ball rides the switch wire before the post on the rope bridge and it rolls past the POA.

Carefully and slightly bending the rope bridge down so the ball rides the front wall will keep it on track.

Bending too much will bind up the post. The post can be further adjusted by loosening its solenoid bracket and twisting or moving it around.

A lot of the time the switch wire is bent too high due to a failing switch.

This can actually cause the ball to stop before the post.

Replace the switch in this case and adjust it propetly.

#4654 4 months ago

Like that's going to happen lol.

Once you go color...

#4672 3 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My POA post isn't dropping when the ball is up there. What should i look for?

Loosen the coil bracket.
There is a little wiggle room built in to get it to move freely.

Also check if the rope bridge is loose and hanging down binding the post.

1 week later
#4677 3 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I got some brand spankin new decals to place on side of IJ machine, but it looks like there are tons of obstructions in the way, including at least 8 nail ends on the top side of the machine. What's the best way to place a new decal on an older machine as such? Any video tutorials out there? Thanks in advance!

Pull the playfield and siderails.

Refinish the cabinet completely.

Any defect shows if not sanded really flat.

Decal glue only sticks to smooth primered or painted surfaces.

#4681 3 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

So you can't place the decals over the original decals?
Sounds like a massive job.

To do it right, it's not hard just time consuming.

20190711_091506 (resized).jpg20190724_191345 (resized).jpg20190724_191356 (resized).jpg20190727_231508 (resized).jpg20190727_231525 (resized).jpg
#4682 3 months ago

The hardest part is the backbox silkscreen.

You can mask off around it though if you have to.

I just silkscreen them.

#4684 3 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Wow, great job! Unfortunately I'm not a handy person by nature, so I'll have to see if someone can do this for me, thanks for all your advice! I was hoping I can remove some bolts from the inside and just stick the decals over the originals...

Send the decals to Paul at virtuapin

https://virtuapin.net/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwIPrBRCJARIsAFlVT8-wHwYbZ7aVt4TzoFvhNbQ1FAK6L1uw__1jEbwmQMWZi8Gvuo2h2CUaAlF-EALw_wcB

Buy a ready to go cabinet.
Pop in the playfield, done.

#4686 3 months ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Wow, great job! Unfortunately I'm not a handy person by nature, so I'll have to see if someone can do this for me, thanks for all your advice! I was hoping I can remove some bolts from the inside and just stick the decals over the originals...

Un fortunately the cabinet is always cracked, loose and out of square after 25 years.

Needs to be replaced or rebuilt.

It's just way cheaper to rebuild them if they aren't too far gone.

#4687 3 months ago

You can completely rebuild a cabinet for $200-$400

Might have to develop some skills, but it's really not hard at sll.

1 week later
#4698 3 months ago
Quoted from underlord:

Hoping for new pf

Me too. But it may well be that Mirco is blowing smoke.

My info has it that Lucas wont budge on the rights/license.

I hope I'm wrong.

#4733 3 months ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

does anyone have a list of LEDS theyve installed on their Indy?

All sunlight 2smd frosted.

Ends up looking very much like bright crisp #44 bulbs.

5smd towers for flashers.

Color flooding looks odd to me.

#4746 3 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Decided to take Dr. Jones to 11 with a Rockford Fosgate upgrade[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice choice!

#4752 3 months ago
Quoted from Averell:

Mmmh, an easy update is the BG20 from Visaton in combination with PinSound Reorchestration from Endprodukt.
I use this subwoofer in all my pinball machines!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

The bg20 is a great speaker at a great price.

#4756 89 days ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

I think you guys would like our Pyle sub driver. It has superior construction (rubber surround, poly coated cone, dual voice coil, lower impedance / higher power rating) and can accommodate the PinWoofer dual-channel sub amp.
Our sub ring (WPC or universal) raises the driver off the deck and allows for free movement of the cone beyond the plane of the basket, unimpeded. We have amps, powered sub and backbox kits or go over the top with the 5-1/4" WPC super kit:
https://pinwoofer.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fpinwoofer-powered-super-kit
We design and cut our own cabinet and backbox rings. Pictured are the sub kit, WPC backbox adapters and some proto runs on the development router. (Get rid of that 3-1/2" speaker for good!) We have many more designs depending on the target (WPC/WPC95/Sega/DE/Stern/CGC, etc.). You guys should give PinWoofer a try. We have scores of kits in WPC and they really do take your pin to the next level.
If we don't already have it, we will make it! Just ask.
Thanks!
https://PinWoofer.com[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thats a nice looking set up!

#4759 88 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

For those that are using Pinsound, which Endprodukt mix is the best
IJ_Remastered_Endprodukt.zip
or
Indiana Jones - Reorchestrated
(Or some other unposted mix)
It appears Remastered is Movie/Sountrack Files vs Reorchestrated which appears to be a original WPC stereo redo with orchestration by Endprodukt himself.
What say you?

Endprodukt by a mile !

1 week later
#4775 77 days ago
Quoted from RhettDR:

Hey guys! I have young kids so I had the extra ball score fixed for a while - to give them something to shoot for.
I recently changed the extra ball rules to "Factory." I feel like I have been playing for weeks and weeks and the extra ball score hasn't moved.
Is there something wonky about this? I set my "minimum" score at 99,000,000 and that is where the extra ball is staying, currently.
Wonky = I know you have to set one of the indicators to "Ticket" to make the machine "Knock" on the extra ball. Is this something similar?

I though if you set for ticket you get a ticket, if you have dispenser, and no extra ball.

#4781 75 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Yes, flashers are out, they will melt nearby plastics etc. The POA flasher worked for the first month and one day it just stayed on. Thanks

Locked on coils or flashers sounds like a transistor on the driver board.

Possibly a coil diode caused the transistor failure?

2 weeks later
#4819 60 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

That looks great. Your playfield looks perfect!
I'm having another issue I just discovered, my Path of Adventure only tips to the right or left just barely off center. Almost 100% of the time, the ball simply rolls into the first pit. I can't get enough pitch left or right to affect the ball much.
Is this adjustable? Or a Path of Adventure motor or opto board issue?
Any suggestions are appreciated.

Slipping on the motor shaft.
Tighten the grub screw.

#4831 54 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Looking for one that needs restored. The more damaged the better.

I have one I could sell PM me.
Works 100% pretty rough.
It's a somewhat rare sample game.
Its worth restoring.

I have a new playfield for it if interested.
But I want the old beat one back to restore for my other IJ.

Cash on the glass please.

2 weeks later
#4861 36 days ago
Quoted from Jireteg:

Thanks for you suggestions,
I’ve already removed and put it back with small adjustment to be sure it doesn´t hit the Playfield in anyt way, Will try to give it some massage.
Had a cliffy that is removed with no change.
The strange thing is that it is only malfunctioning when the game is turned on and the droptarget in down position, if it is in up position everything on power up it works perfect during initial test and gameplay, and also in test mode. That for me is an indication that it is not hitting anything but is some other strange problem.
Any more thoughts,

Replace what you can, and make it new again.

Check for loose, frayed, burnt or corroded wire on that circuit, to make sure you are getting enough power.

Check IDC wires at the driver board and clean or renew. Check the pins thete if they look bad.

#4862 36 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I was originally going to go with brass. I still like the polished brass finish but I saw a few in black and I really like how it contrasts with the artwork. I'm in the middle of restoring mine right now. The color I have is actually "gold"... its almost black. It has gold flake but you cant see it very well in the pictures.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Black pearl powdercoat.

#4872 34 days ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

Hey all,
Ball goes in subway trough, only registers at ball check- no ball lock. Do optos register in switch test? I can’t get optos along path to register when blocked. Yes, they are clean.
Thanks

Optos do register in switch test.

They are on until triggered, then off.

They work the opposite of regular switches.

#4879 33 days ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

Thanks. So all subway optos failed at same time. Opto board fried?

Loose wire etc..

#4883 31 days ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

Hi all,
My mini playfield just started stuttering when moved to the left. Does the same in switch tests. Having done a quick search on here it looks like the culprit will either be POA optos or flipper optos (or both). Any recommendations on how to proceed. I’m also not sure where the opto boards are on the POA!
Thanks for any help.

Stuttering is a symptom of dirty or failing optos on the POA opto board.

It's under the POA.

New opto boards are pretty cheap and work good.

But you can also just solder in new optos or clean them and it usually works.

#4891 30 days ago
Quoted from Jazzbouche:

Thanks guys - much appreciated. I’ll sort the opto board. With the effort of getting the POA out I might as well swap in a new component.
Cheers

You might swap out the motor controller board too for durability.

They seem to go bad in pairs for me.

#4896 28 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Do you have a part number for the motor controller board? Available at pinball life as well? Thank you.

It's in the manual.

1 week later
#4906 20 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m in the thick of this decision myself. My biggest constraint is that whatever I choose it has to match the artwork of the game. I won’t like anything that is realistic or too far off from the artwork on the playfield and playfield plastics.
I’ve found none that are a slam dunk for me.

I like tilt game blades, really good color, great artwork.

Heavy vinyl that wont tear up.

They are the best.

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/indiana-jones-gameblades

#4909 19 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I printed these side decals thanks to fellow Pinsider averell. I think they look awesome and really compliment the game.[quoted image]

Did you have them printed st a sign shop?

#4911 19 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I have the printer. I’ll see if I can find some better pictures. I think I printed an extra set just in case. I’ll look for it and take better pics.

I was thinking of getting a roll printer and maybe a vinyl cutter.

What printer did you use?

1 week later
#4934 10 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What’s so good about them though? I’ve never seen one in person.

Its really nice compared to the translite.

#4949 9 days ago
Quoted from okgrak:

I recently have seen an issue where the ball kicks out of the trough but then bounces hard enough off the wood rail to end up back in the trough, requiring multiple kicks to get it out occasionally. Has anyone else had this issue? I figured I would ask before diagnosing.

Is it the correct coil?

1 week later
#4989 10 hours ago
Quoted from JB30:

I finally convinced my mom she should let me take the IJ out of her basement and bring it to my house so somebody can actually get some enjoyment out of it. My kids are excited to play! They've never seen pinball before, and what a beautiful game they will have to learn on.
I've just been cleaning (a lot), some of the flipper wiring was bad, the flippers need to be rebuilt, lots of blown bulbs, most of the rubber is dried out, needs a couple drop targets, needs some trim, and the balls keep auto-firing after the first trigger pull, but other than that, it's in good shape![quoted image]

Might have to check the shooter lane switch.

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