Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from gac:

Looks awesome. Are you going to do the single target in the back of the machine as well? Would you mind posting a pic of the placement of the led strip? Thanks for sharing!

Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Yes, I’m also doing the single target next. I’m also changing to a yellow LED strip so it looks more gold color. So, the placement of the led strip is tough to get a picture of it. It’s a very tight space. I used mounting tape on the sticky side of the LED strip so it had better adhesion. I placed it on the edge of the thin, green drop target board, just below the drop targets. Mounting tape holds it surprisingly well. In fact, when I went to change out the white LED strip to yellow, I could barely get the LED off that green edge.

Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PtownPin:

I think yellow is a great option (please post a pic)....did u use a small 3 LED strip and just tie it onto a GI?

Quoted from gac:

May I ask where you got the target decals? They look sharp.

Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks...I appreciate the input...I think I'll just buy the pinSound speaker set as its pretty turn key....shipping is pricey to the USA $70 ...ouch

Quoted from Ricochet:

It’s a bitch to work back there ... especially with the ramp installed.
There should be a tiny bit of natural play in the flap. When it’s resting ... see if it has any back and forth play... then lift it up and see if it still has back and forth play. This will at least tell you that it’s not binding on the rod wire.

Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Do you have a distinct left & right? It’s probably tough to get pics but curious what your gates look like

Quoted from okgrak:

Do not spend $70 on shipping
Pinball Pro makes a $99 kit that sounds amazing with pin sound
https://pinballpro.net/shop/bally-williams-wpc-pinsound-speaker-kit/
If you want to go cheaper you can also go DIY.
The important part is to find quality speakers with a high sensitivity. The best combo I've found which works amazingly with pin sound:
Cabinet woofer:
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-208-4-8-oem-woofer-4-ohm--290-310
$19.13
Backbox speakers:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc130b-4-5-1-4-classic-woofer-speaker--295-307#lblProductDetails
$18.98 each. ( x 2 )
Total: $57 plus shipping
Going with the Pinball pro kit does get you the cabinet adapters, which will avoid the need to mod your cabinet. In my opinion it's worth the extra cost over DIY.

Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks I appreciate the insight....The high shipping costs were the pin sound board and speakers....its actually $80 ...I wonder if anyone in the states sells the board?

Quoted from okgrak:

Yes. K's Arcade. I've bought all my boards from them.
https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/pinsound/pinsound-wpc-95.html

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Maybe it's finally time to ask for help with an issue that has been plaguing my IJ since I bought it 17 years ago...
You know the left and right control gates at the back of the playfield that control the orbit? The right one works fine. Gate goes up, gate goes down.
The left one, however, goes up - but doesn't go down. Unless I push it down, or vibration eventually knocks it down. I can't see any visible problem with any parts, springs are all fine, but the resistance when I push it back down feels like it's being held up by...magnetism?
Is that a thing that can happen here? That a part has become permanently magnetised to the point that it constantly holds the gate up? How can I be sure? Is there an easy fix for this? Or am I off base?

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Cut the length of your spring. That should help bring the flap down

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Tried it, thanks. Even with the shortest spring possible, there's not enough tension to break the "stickiness."

Quoted from wolfemaaan:

I’m pretty sure I remember a distinct left and right part number when I too mine apart. I can say from looking at them, the gate wires are different facing the playfield. I guess confirm yours look the same[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Thanks kornfreak28, ricochet and wolfemaaan for your advice on this!
In the end, I fixed it in the stupidest possible way.
I took out the left ramp so I could have a closer look at the gate underneath. Everything looked fine topside. Unscrewed the assembly from the bottom of the playfield and let it hang. Yup, every time it activated, the magnet refused to let go. Once forced to release, there's no residual magnetism, but ones it activates it'll just stay that way.
So I stuck two pieces of masking tape between the magnet and the plate. That was just enough to dull the magnetic field enough to allow it to let go of the plate. A hack, for sure, but it should do the trick at least until the tape wears through.
I think what happened is that the metal plate became slightly magnetised, so once it connects it's too strong to let go. If I had a way to demagnetise the plate, that might be a more permanent solution.[quoted image]

Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks I appreciate the insight....The high shipping costs were the pin sound board and speakers....its actually $80 ...I wonder if anyone in the states sells the board?

Quoted from gac:

Pinsound is actually having a TPF Virtual Booth sale right now. If you order their "Ultimate Pack" they are offering free shipping. It looks like they are donating 5% of all sales made today through Sunday to TPF. They do have a couple other deals as well.

Quoted from PtownPin:

Interesting....I don't see that on their website...

Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

I've got everything on my game up and running again. Added a power source to power the color DMD and now I can run my topper, my color DMD and my Pinsound board all at once without blowing any fuses.
IJ was already my favorite game but Pinsound with the IJ Re orchestration has made this game over the top amazing. Thanks to everyone who helped me get things sorted out on my game. What a great hobby.
QSS

Looks awesome....I'm a little confused why the color dmd, pin sound board, and topper would draw too much power....is that really true?
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

In my experience the homepin poa opto board doesnt work at all
Its the wrong design.
Very many were sold, none of them actually worked.
Get a different one.

Quoted from swilson143:

Been looking at my cabinet, deciding if I'm repairing it or replacing it. I'm leaving towards replacing.
Anyone have a cabinet manufacturer they recommend?

Quoted from paynemic:

Installed my new radcals on indy today. About 4 total hours. Sanding is not avoidable unfortunately. The old art doesn’t line up exactly with the new and you can see it under the radcals. So I sanded down mostly to white decal. Didn’t want to keep going down to bare wood.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from paynemic:

Installed my new radcals on indy today. About 4 total hours. Sanding is not avoidable unfortunately. The old art doesn’t line up exactly with the new and you can see it under the radcals. So I sanded down mostly to white decal. Didn’t want to keep going down to bare wood.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from swilson143:

I put over 20 hours into troubleshooting my new IJ, but I just got it working!
Right your are. When Pinball Life found out I had a Homepin POA Opto board, they sent me a free Anarchy replacement.
But an error in the factory manual kept me from getting it running. I had gone connector by connector verifying it was correct per the manual. On the 8 driver board, I found a VIO-WHT wire on J5-1, but the manual said it should be on J5-4, so I repinned the connector.
In the end I figured out the manual is wrong! I've since verified this on a 2nd IJ. Take a second to make a note in your manual!
My IJ rewarded my hard work with a nice GC score[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

I’m pretty happy with the DIY widebody cabinet I got from Paul Maletich at Virtuapin for my Vpin build. He also makes a direct replacement, fully assembled widebody cabinet for IJ. https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=133&zenid=ajq2sf5a9pi18cf32uthplada6

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Cut the length of your spring. That should help bring the flap down

Quoted from Ricochet:

All of the opto assemblies for both ramps, the captive ball and the upkicker for the idol all have the same 4 pin connectors.... like I said, I'm not sure you have enough reach to swap.
Your CPU board may have your opto board plugged into J208... J209 is on the bottom row, far right... J208 is right above it.

Quoted from SkinnyFats:

I had a similar problem with one of my gates. The springs were not the same - someone had installed the wrong spring on the gate that wasn’t working well. Replacing the spring fixed the problem. You can do it from the bottom so no worries about the ramps.

Quoted from Lostcause:

I will be fitting mine soon, looks like it’s over hanging and needs trimming?
How does the front and sides line up, when I had a quick look at mine it looked off a bit, but thought it could be sorted while fitting.
Do you think it would be better to fit without the side trims on or just fit as you did and butt up to them?
They look great.
Thanks in advance.

Quoted from desertT1:

Does the orientation of the wires matter for the POA motor? If so, what wire needs to be on the tab closest to the cabinet? Thanks.

Quoted from swilson143:

Photos attached[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from desertT1:

Does the orientation of the wires matter for the POA motor? If so, what wire needs to be on the tab closest to the cabinet? Thanks.

Quoted from Ricochet:

You can rotate that motor around (it doesn’t have any mechanical polarity... it fits either way) ... and the wires will be in the opposite position... you need to look on the motor body... There is an indent in the plastic on one of the terminals...this is where the white wire goes.

Quoted from paynemic:

Butt them up to the side rails. I kind of missed, they can get closer than what I did. But they’ll be up from the bottom a bit. I think that’s preferable. But my clamps slipped and half the decal was stuck. I decided not to sweat it.
The worse issue (still mild) was that the start button hole of the front was a little to the left on the radcal making me shift it to the left to get the left edge lined up well. I kind of had to choose. So a little of the old wood shows in the left side of the circle of the two buttons. I’ll pain them black and it will be unnoticeable. I didn’t get a pic and it’s out for playfield swap or I’d go take one. Sorry.

Quoted from desertT1:

This one has been replaced and I’m guessing the red dot is the same as the indent on the original motor.
I replaced Q30 and the POA now no longer locks itself to the left. Instead it does, nothing. I can pivot it by hand and the optos register in the POA test. But it’s not moving left and right when I press the flipper buttons to move the POA left and right. Sort of at a loss and looking for guesses others might have.
UPDATE: Well I left it in test mode typing that up and the POA locked on to the left so likely just killed Q30 again. Any chance the $90 POA board under the playfield is killing Q30? Strange it didn't happen right away.
[quoted image]

Quoted from swilson143:

Been looking at my cabinet, deciding if I'm repairing it or replacing it. I'm leaving towards replacing.
Anyone have a cabinet manufacturer they recommend?

Quoted from Jazzbouche:

Hi All - hope you're all safe and well. Been working on something new, but ground to a halt as now don't have access to the printers. So that means testing
So far it's working great and is very robust. I've strengthened the ribs down the back, so it should be stronger than the originals. I'll continue testing and report back.
Also - all my switches down the right side of my POA are out - plus the switch on the right hand ramp. This happened a little while back and I'm sure I fiddled with the ramp switch and everything started working again, but not this time - and advice on next steps?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Ricochet:

Quick question... the leg/guides in the rear of the playfield... are yours bent or straight? I'm seeing the same part number for either bent or straight. Mine are bent... just want to make sure they are the right ones, pretty sure they are.