Has anyone installed the PinSound board on the IJ? Just wondering if theres a big difference in sound quality as its not a cheap upgrade. If its a drastic difference I'll probably pull the trigger on one .
(Topic ID: 68869)
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Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from paynemic:Not sure how you’ve missed us all RAVING about it, but get a pinsound and new speakers and endprodukt’s mix and you’ll have an entirely new IJ experience.
Thanks for advice...so what exactly do you think I need? Pin sound board, back box speakers, and Sub? who did u buy your speakers from?
Quoted from wolfemaaan:Pinsound sells a good set of speakers, but use can pretty much use any decent sub & back box speakers and it will be better than stock. I actually put some Rockford Fosgates into my cabinet.
Pinsound is the single best upgrade/mod you can do for your IJ, hands down
Thanks...I appreciate the input...I think I'll just buy the pinSound speaker set as its pretty turn key....shipping is pricey to the USA $70 ...ouch
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Checkout the translucent drop targets I installed from pinball-mods.com. They are virtually unbreakable. I lit them up with an LED strip under the Playfield. I think I may change the LED strip color from white to yellow, to give it a yellow/gold look instead.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
They look awesome....where did you install the LED strip? Yellow or Orange might look great. What about the other drop target?
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Yes, I’m also doing the single target next. I’m also changing to a yellow LED strip so it looks more gold color. So, the placement of the led strip is tough to get a picture of it. It’s a very tight space. I used mounting tape on the sticky side of the LED strip so it had better adhesion. I placed it on the edge of the thin, green drop target board, just below the drop targets. Mounting tape holds it surprisingly well. In fact, when I went to change out the white LED strip to yellow, I could barely get the LED off that green edge.
I think yellow is a great option (please post a pic)....did u use a small 3 LED strip and just tie it onto a GI?
Quoted from okgrak:Do not spend $70 on shipping
Pinball Pro makes a $99 kit that sounds amazing with pin sound
https://pinballpro.net/shop/bally-williams-wpc-pinsound-speaker-kit/
If you want to go cheaper you can also go DIY.
The important part is to find quality speakers with a high sensitivity. The best combo I've found which works amazingly with pin sound:
Cabinet woofer:
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-208-4-8-oem-woofer-4-ohm--290-310
$19.13
Backbox speakers:
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc130b-4-5-1-4-classic-woofer-speaker--295-307#lblProductDetails
$18.98 each. ( x 2 )
Total: $57 plus shipping
Going with the Pinball pro kit does get you the cabinet adapters, which will avoid the need to mod your cabinet. In my opinion it's worth the extra cost over DIY.
Thanks I appreciate the insight....The high shipping costs were the pin sound board and speakers....its actually $80 ...I wonder if anyone in the states sells the board?
Quoted from okgrak:Yes. K's Arcade. I've bought all my boards from them.
https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/pinsound/pinsound-wpc-95.html
Thanks I actually just ordered it from K's....I appreciate the help
Quoted from gac:Pinsound is actually having a TPF Virtual Booth sale right now. If you order their "Ultimate Pack" they are offering free shipping. It looks like they are donating 5% of all sales made today through Sunday to TPF. They do have a couple other deals as well.
Interesting....I don't see that on their website...
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:I've got everything on my game up and running again. Added a power source to power the color DMD and now I can run my topper, my color DMD and my Pinsound board all at once without blowing any fuses.
IJ was already my favorite game but Pinsound with the IJ Re orchestration has made this game over the top amazing. Thanks to everyone who helped me get things sorted out on my game. What a great hobby.
QSSLooks awesome....I'm a little confused why the color dmd, pin sound board, and topper would draw too much power....is that really true?
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Quoted from swilson143:I put over 20 hours into troubleshooting my new IJ, but I just got it working!
Right your are. When Pinball Life found out I had a Homepin POA Opto board, they sent me a free Anarchy replacement.
But an error in the factory manual kept me from getting it running. I had gone connector by connector verifying it was correct per the manual. On the 8 driver board, I found a VIO-WHT wire on J5-1, but the manual said it should be on J5-4, so I repinned the connector.
In the end I figured out the manual is wrong! I've since verified this on a 2nd IJ. Take a second to make a note in your manual!
My IJ rewarded my hard work with a nice GC score[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great work on finding that....now I know who to call if I have problems 
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:I’m pretty happy with the DIY widebody cabinet I got from Paul Maletich at Virtuapin for my Vpin build. He also makes a direct replacement, fully assembled widebody cabinet for IJ. https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_id=133&zenid=ajq2sf5a9pi18cf32uthplada6
Quoted from wolfemaaan:Only download the one from Endprodukt
Thanks...he has two on the pin sound website...just curious which one...
Quoted from Jazzbouche:When I got mine from him he told me that the versions on Pinsound were not from him and were adapted versions from someone. Worth contacting him direct to check.
I reached out and got a reply that said that the package on pin sound could have problems with the new board (pinsound+). I then responded to see if he sold a version that worked, but haven't heard back yet..
Quoted from PtownPin:I reached out and got a reply that said that the package on pin sound could have problems with the new board (pinsound+). I then responded to see if he sold a version that worked, but haven't heard back yet..
I heard from EndProdukt...He sent me the correct files I'll make a donation to his account....I don't think their the same files that are on the PinSound website
Finally installed the Indiana jones PinSound + board and the Endproduct sound package. I initially had problems due to an apparent firmware issue....Wow that sound package is awesome.....
Also does anyone know where u can buy air ball protectors?
Quoted from PtownPin:Finally installed the Indiana jones PinSound + board and the Endproduct sound package. I initially had problems due to an apparent firmware issue....Wow that sound package is awesome.....
Also does anyone know where u can buy air ball stopper mod? Doesn't look like the guy is making them anymore?
Quoted from plovis:Yeah, seems reasonable.
Perhaps some double sided adhesive? I'm not sure about the cliffy for the IJ mode hole, but I've installed some cliffys for switch slots that had adhesive to help keep them true to the surface. Short of that maybe something to replace the screws that is smoother and lower profile, like rivets?
As far as the opto under the ramp, I can only speak from my experience but I pulled the deflector over a month ago and have had zero problems. That wire rail you mentioned seems to protect it well enough, and honestly with the ball hitting the foam instead of the metal deflector it really deadens the impact.
I just installed the carbon fiber cliff on the mode hole, and have had zero problems (at least for the first 20 games or so)
Quoted from Ricochet:[quoted image]
Thats it....I didn't really need one, but figured why not protect the hole from future damage....works great
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:I’m debating on getting a pinsound shaker or a pinshakers shaker. I already have the Pinsound + board installed. Any thoughts or feedback on either? Thanks!
Great question....
Quoted from AaronZOOM:It's a magnet.[quoted image]
Looks great...where did u buy it?
Quoted from Energyspike:I thought this was a cool idea and one of my drop targets was cracked so it was a good time for the change up. However, not sure if you ran into this issue, but the opto's would not recognize when the target was down and it baffled me for a bit. I had to paint the tab black and now they are recognized. Just in case others run into this issue, thought I would post this..[quoted image]
Great intel...I was gonna swap mine out and actually light them up like a fellow pinsider showed....
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes, you have to remove the chip and install a socket.
It can be tough, and you can break traces on the board they are very thin and tiny.
An easier, safer way to go is to install the coin battery.
They work very well and are easy to install with very little risk to the board.
I have put in a few and have had no issues at all. In fact I like it better as it leaves the clock up and running for midnight madness modes on some games.
https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/
Totally agree
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Just added this little buddy. Pretty close match to the real one in the movie and only $15 delivered to my door. I love mods but i'm not one for adding dolls or little toys to my games so this is a start for me. I attached it with the blue stick putty. Easy on easy off.
amazon.com link »[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice....I bet you could add a few LED's to that tank
Quoted from PappyBoyington:I just finished installing the side blades from Tilt graphics. I like them!
This is my IJ, NO LEDS all INCANDESCENT BULBS BABY! I have a LED kit but I can't do it. All of my other games have LEDs but this one feels like it needs that incandescent warmth.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice....I actually just got mine yesterday (it took 3 weeks)....Any issues with the fit? Did u use the wet or dry method?
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Wet. Tiny bit of soap and water in a spray bottle. I don't see how you can do it dry. Unless you take the playfield out. Left side needed a little trim off the top in the back.
I always install using the wet method, but my buddy does the dry method....did the back box holes line up? The last three blades I've installed from Tilt the holes were off quite a bit off so I had to remove the back box bolts .
On the back panel of my IJ theres a circuit board A-16930 with three lights (I think their for the bridge). The back panel is routed out for the lights. The A-16930 board is referenced in the manual, but theres no schematic and the lights are not referenced in the light matrix. My problem is I can't seem to get those bulbs working.
I'm wondering if anyone else has this board in their back panel, and how its connected to the game.
Quoted from Ricochet:That is an early run of the game. The original back-board design had the lamp board to illuminate the plastic behind the bridge. This was abandoned during full production of the game. Very cool that you have this.
Be nice to get it back up and running. I assume it had nothing to do with the bridge mode, and just illuminated the bridge plastic? I guess I can just wire it to a GI
Quoted from AaronZOOM:My game has always had this, and they do work. I'll take a look later and let you know what I see. I'll post a picture if I can get a clear shot.
Thanks....I'd love to see how yours is wired.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Here's a question...
What do people think of this? And by this, I mean the new orientation of the hole protector.
[quoted image]
I take the deflector completely out, as people have suggested, and drill NEW holes off to the side to mount the Cliffy protector. That way I don't have to worry about the ball constantly banging into the screws.
Is this a good idea? Bad idea? Should I try other options first, such as elongating the screw holes in the deflector so it can be mounted further back?
Seems like a smart move if you ok with drilling into the play field.
Does anyone know the switch part number for the switch that activates the post for the POA? Its the rollover switch right before the up and down post. For whatever reason its not listed in the manual. Thanks!
I spent half the day yesterday working through my POA issues. I removed the motor, and cleaned the opto board...both seemed to check out just fine. When I removed the POA I realized that none of the bulbs have been converted to LED's so I swapped those out. When doing do I realized that one of the light boards wasn't working correctly (two bulbs were out and not getting voltage) so I had to reflow solder on the board and all is good now. Its a bit of a hornets nest under the POA. Unfortunately I broke a switch when taking it off and on so many times so thats on order. I also realized that many of the 44, 89, and 904 bulbs were out so I put those on order with Comet (thanks Ricochet for your lamp specs). I really appreciate all the advice on this forum.
Quoted from Ricochet:Loose / intermittent connection to the #2 opto receiver??? The wire that’s connected to Pin 2 on the opto board
Thats interesting....mine does the same thing, but in the opposite direction....its not as bad prior to me working on it over the weekend, but it repeated the behavior today. Sounds like I need to check the opto receivers on my board?
Quoted from Ricochet:Could also be a failure on the 10 opto board (the one under the playfield)
Thanks...I'm gonna pull the opto board tomorrow, check all the connections, and reflow solder....
Quoted from pinballinreno:bad, dirty or old cloudy optos on the opto board cause jittery movement.
Either replace the board, or just solder in new optos.
Do you know where to get a new opto board and or new optos? Is this something Marco carries?
Found them Marco carries the board for $50 and the optos for $5 each....
Quoted from gac:Installed #jimmyhonda drop target mod. Used "amber" led strip to light it.
[quoted image][quoted image]
How did you mount the LED's under the play field? Any chance you can take a picture?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Just ordered, thanks!
Great....I just reflowed all the solder joints on my POA control board. I played 4-5 games and it worked perfect. I ordered a new board just in case, but I'm sure my issue was a cold solder joint.
Quoted from gac:Here is a pic of a 10 smd led strip on the edge of the board where it would be installed. The one I used I cut to 7 smd's to reduce the size. Could probably cut to 5 and would still be plenty bright.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome....thanks
Quoted from HarryReimer:Those drop targets look dynamite.
A picture of my Indy...
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Wow...thats some serious IJ love
Quoted from orlandu81:Joined this club a few weeks ago! What a fun machine but not without its quirks. I spent many hours fixing the little issues here and there, and added some tasteful mods. As of today, this machine is 100% working and 98% dialed in...including the POA and Mode Start hole.
Visual Mods I installed to date:
- Comet Pinball LEDs
- Color DMD LCD (I didn't realize it but these guys operate less than a mile from my house)
- Mirrored Backglass from classicplayfields.com (in transit)
- Biplane propeller mod
- Mode Start hole light mod
- POA drop holes light mod
- Cliffys throughout
- Pinbits plastic protectors
- Air deflector mod
- Lost plastic added
Gameplay Mods I performed to date:
- Moved the Mode Start hole deflector back 1/4 inch by drilling out the holes on it, also added some washers to give it a bit more height. Blazing shots from the right flipper drop at around 70%, normal shots from the right flipper at closer to 90%, and soft shots from the left flipper are always dropping at 100%. I thought about adding a dampening square to the deflector to improve the percentages even more...but after reading this thread and others I think the hole is not too challenging but not easy either.
- Lots of trial and error to get the POA dialed in nicely. It's super fast but I am able to get it to either side consistently. Replaced the opto sensors and got the wires super clean and organized to avoid movements while the playfield tilts. Tried many angles with the bridge until I found one that worked nicely.
Other Mods I may do in the future, any recommendations for the best ones I haven't done yet?:
- PDI glass
- Mirror blades
- Orchestration and sound board mod
- New art wrap...the previous owner did not the greatest job applying the artwork, but it is fine for now.
- Lost Plastic lighting...it is kind of dark back there I don't even really see it.
- Wireform brass exchange with pinballplating.com
Remaining issue to address to get the machine to be dialed in 100%
- The ball will regularly, not too often, get stuck on top of the idol drop down target (single one) during the quick 2 ball multiball challenge. I thought the Cliffys would fix it, but I assume the target is dropping just a few mm below the surface creating a trough for the ball to sit on. I need to disassemble it and clean it, I'm sure that will fix the issue. Not a big deal, I just need to wait until the bonus is over and then the target pops the ball up back in play.
[quoted image]
I would highly suggest Korn's planes....they are really well done. If your into game blades they also look really nice in the game.
Quoted from Digduglus:Anyone know where to get korns planes or the propeller mod?
Send him a PM and get on the list....its worth the wait
Quoted from orlandu81:Joined this club a few weeks ago! What a fun machine but not without its quirks. I spent many hours fixing the little issues here and there, and added some tasteful mods. As of today, this machine is 100% working and 98% dialed in...including the POA and Mode Start hole.
Visual Mods I installed to date:
- Comet Pinball LEDs
- Color DMD LCD (I didn't realize it but these guys operate less than a mile from my house)
- Mirrored Backglass from classicplayfields.com (in transit)
- Biplane propeller mod
- Mode Start hole light mod
- POA drop holes light mod
- Cliffys throughout
- Pinbits plastic protectors
- Air deflector mod
- Lost plastic added
Gameplay Mods I performed to date:
- Moved the Mode Start hole deflector back 1/4 inch by drilling out the holes on it, also added some washers to give it a bit more height. Blazing shots from the right flipper drop at around 70%, normal shots from the right flipper at closer to 90%, and soft shots from the left flipper are always dropping at 100%. I thought about adding a dampening square to the deflector to improve the percentages even more...but after reading this thread and others I think the hole is not too challenging but not easy either.
- Lots of trial and error to get the POA dialed in nicely. It's super fast but I am able to get it to either side consistently. Replaced the opto sensors and got the wires super clean and organized to avoid movements while the playfield tilts. Tried many angles with the bridge until I found one that worked nicely.
Other Mods I may do in the future, any recommendations for the best ones I haven't done yet?:
- PDI glass
- Mirror blades
- Orchestration and sound board mod
- New art wrap...the previous owner did not do the greatest job applying the artwork, but it is fine for now.
- Lost Plastic lighting...it is kind of dark back there I don't even really see it.
- Wireform brass exchange with pinballplating.com
Remaining issue to address to get the machine to be dialed in 100%
- The ball will regularly, not too often, get stuck on top of the idol drop down target (single one) during the quick 2 ball multiball challenge. I thought the Cliffys would fix it, but I assume the target is dropping just a few mm below the surface creating a trough for the ball to sit on. I need to disassemble it and clean it, I'm sure that will fix the issue. Not a big deal, I just need to wait until the bonus is over and then the target pops the ball up back in play.
[quoted image]
The other no brainer (although not cheap) is upgrading the sound package. The PinSound + board is worth every penny (plus upgrading the stock speakers)
Quoted from orlandu81:Thanks for the input guys, to be honest the planes by kornfreak28 were not even on my radar since I did the propeller mod but I'm sold from your comments. I just sent him a note to get on the list, hopefully it won't be too long.
I'm hesitant with the pinsound and re-orchestration because I'm concerned it is too much of an alteration to the original game. It sounds fantastic, I listened to the samples, but I'm not sure I want to invade my game that much for upgraded sound that honestly isn't a major change in gameplay or appearance. I feel the same way about the shaker motor.
To each its own, but the music in IJ is iconic and sound improvement is mind boggling....u can also use the original music and call outs (with improved quality)....its really no different than installing the color dmd...has nothing to do with game play, but its really nice to have. All these mods are nice to haves and not really necessary.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Yeah, everyone has their own tolerance for mods. Some would consider any alteration at all to be blasphemous, and some want to jam as many improvements into their machine as possible. In many ways, that's kind of the beauty of this club...we all have the same machine, and yet they're all unique to us.
I have my own lines I won't cross, and am sometimes baffled by what others do to their pins, but do what makes you happy. The only 'must haves' are the ones you enjoy, and it's worth being thankful we have so many talented mod creators in the pinball community who are sharing their talents.
Totally agree....many are purists and love the games as designed. For myself I think theres many things designers would have liked to do yet didn't have the budget for. Take Korns planes as an example. Not only do the planes look awesome having them interact with the game is really nice. We can do things now that weren't practical in the early 90's. None of these mods are a must have, but many are really nice have's that clearly (to some) improve the look and experience of playing the game.
Quoted from PeterG:See post #5420 for mine
They look nice...where did u buy them? Hopefully not tilt graphics....
Quoted from Devo10:Installed my IJ apron magnet. Great addition to the game.
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Looks awesome....
Quoted from Manny65:Is it a hard flat sheet or something that can be rolled for shipping?
Its such a nice look...Aaron did a great job
Quoted from orlandu81:I wanted to give a shout-out to Classic Playfield Reproductions for their work on this mirrored back glass. My plexi had a few spots that bothered me and some slight discoloration, so I decided to upgrade it. At first, I regretted the purchase because the price is quite high ($309 shipped), but was quite pleased with the appearance when it arrived today. It is super sharp and really dressed up the machine and I'm happy I spent the cash on this upgrade! This pic doesn't even remotely do it justice...you can see the depth of the image when compared to the plexi which just comes off flat.
[quoted image]
Looks really nice ....
Quoted from orlandu81:Hello Everyone!
I wanted to give a shout-out to jenk540i for his start mode modification idea. I know this topic has been debated at length (I have read through the posts about it)...so for those of us who prefer to keep the deflector installed but want a higher % of shots from the right flipper to stick, my results are as follows:
No mods:
30% stick rate from the right flipper
Drilled out the holes in the deflector to move it back 1/4 inch, raised up the deflector slightly with some washers, and added the Cliffy protector:
65% stick rate from the right flipper
Added a small foam rubber protector as recommended by jenk540i (cost less than a buck and took 6 seconds to install), and I don't see it unless I bend down low and look for it:
90% stick rate from the right flipper (small sample size, will play more over the weekend to see but looks promising so far)
TBH, I didn't want the 100% stick rate...but I don't want 30% either, and 65% was a little more frustrating than I thought it would be. 90% seems like the perfect success rate for my liking.
Yes I know removing the deflector and lining the area with drop dead foam will give you ~99% stick rate...but that is not what I wanted. I wanted the thud, AND I enjoy the risk of losing around 1/10 fast right flipper shots. It's worth the few cents and few seconds to try it out if you are looking for a higher success rate without removing the deflector.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/very-effective-fix-for-ij-mode-start-problem
Thanks I'm gonna try this method soon....I've been reluctant to take off the POA (since its now working perfectly) so I can get to the scoop. I'm also a little reluctant to drill into the play field and move it back. I get about 50% rejections as it sits right now so I clearly need to do something. What exactly is a rubber protector? foam on the bottom side of the scoop?
Quoted from AaronZOOM:This "rubber protector" Marco sells is probably just a thicker version of the same EVA foam I sent you with your magnet. You can use it to the same effect.
Thats what I was thinking....was gonna do it all that once I get the air ball deflectors fro Davi .... that way I don't have to bust into the game more than once
Quoted from orlandu81:Here is the piece from Marco's. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6534-9
It's $0.30 for one, I bought 5 with my recent order of other stuff. Not sure how long it will last...I'll report back when it falls off. Per the originator of this idea, he has had to replace his foam strip once ever year or so which seems pretty good to me.
BTW - I didn't drill into the playfield...I took off the deflector and increased the hole size on it so I could slide it back 1/4 inch to give it more space when the ball deflects off of it. This helped a bit, just didn't get me the whole way there.
Thanks....I think I have a few pieces of that foam.....its an interesting placement...
Quoted from orlandu81:Yeah I thought it was odd at first too but the pop outs happen when I blast the ball in there...the ball bounces slightly up and the pad knocks it back down ever so slightly...just enough that it stays in most of the time. I've had 2 ring out of there tonight...but I really hit it full strength and it didn't go in perfectly clean either.
It kind of works similar to the air deflector mods...I swear once I installed them the air balls just stopped...and I know the ball is hitting those deflectors I just don't hear it nor do I really see it.
Makes sense....I may try and put a piece of the foam Aaron gave me to see if it helps. I'm waiting on my air ball plastics from Davi....I get all kinds of crazy air balls on my IJ
Quoted from Ricochet:Not quite done with this yet... played and played and played and had one instance of the ball getting caught... I’ve two more ideas ... I’ll post when I’m satisfied.
I love how particular you are.....the attention to detail is impressive Kind of like Korn's planes
Quoted from Psw757:That looks good, keeps original color palette and brightens it up a bit.
It makes a big difference....Ricochet is spot on with his advice
Quoted from gunstarhero:Well, it ain't cheap... it isn't light... it has some towering airball issues (kind of exciting really) and really needs alot of tuning and tweaking to play just right.
That said, it is a pretty awesome game, and if you like Indiana Jones as a theme and have the money to spend you won't be unhappy. Plus unless you crazy overpay (or just go nuts on mods... it has some crazy expensive mods) it's a pretty easy game to get your money back out of.
Grab those airball protectors .... they help quite a bit
Quoted from AaronZOOM:I printed a limited number of extra sets for those that would like some. I’d like those here in the IJ club who are interested to get a first crack at them. They’re specially die cut and mounted on center-punched foam so they can be easily stuck right over the rivet. PM me if you’re interested.
The full set includes seven custom designs. Five are from Quick 2-ball multiball – The Idol of the Incas, the Diamond of Shanghai, the Cross of Coronado, the Remains of Nurhachi, and the Fish of Tayles. The Medallion is from the Raven Bar video mode, and the Shield of the Grail Knight is because I wanted to.
They’re a bit hard to photograph, because the treasures themselves are shiny & metallic, but I took a few quick shots of them in and out of my machine:
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I also still have some of the metallic gold drop targets available, if anyone is looking for some extra shine!
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I'm in for a set...they look great
Has anyone installed the JackPot board from these guys?
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/indiana-jones-jackpot-board-5745.html
I have a color DMD and want to make sure theres enough room for the installation....maybe its not an issue, but figured I'd see if anyone has used this board.
Thanks
Quoted from okgrak:I have, but I’m using the LED ColorDMD, so there was no issue with fit.
OK thanks....It looks like Ricochet had an issue with hot spots due to the pinbits board being to close to the panel (although he fixed the issue). This board is a little different as it has surface mount LED's so it might not be an issue? I have the LCD display so not sure if I'll have a problem or not? worst cast I can always try to figure out another way to mount the board.
Quoted from Ricochet:My speaker panel and jackpot LED board were both made by pinbits... so the mounting screw locations for the pinbits jackpot led board ended up being bit to close to the bottom LED ColorDMD chassis. This would not allow the jackpot PCB to fit with the standoffs in place... the screws would not align to mounting holes in the PCB due to the interference of the Color DMD. My first quick an dirty fix was just to remove the standoffs and mount the jackpot led PCB right on top of the wood (its basically under the ColorDMD). This is what created the hotspot... the leds were simply too close to the plastic. What I ended up doing was elongating the holes for the jackpot led pcb... all it took was like 1/16" of tolerance vertically. This allowed me to put the standoffs back in thereby creating some play in the PCB mounting holes so it would fit along side the Color DMD. If you are locating and mounting your own mounting studs I'm sure you can make it work.
Great....thank you....I ordered the board so I should find in a couple weeks Unfortunately I can't get PinBits to ever answer emails so not sure their in business anymore?
Quoted from gunstarhero:They're still around... but they have become fairly unresponsive over the years.
I'd say so....they make some great stuff (or they used to)....too bad their so unresponsive
1 week later
Quoted from Ricochet:I’ve decided to make a ball guide for the right exit lane. It looks funny without it and it will serve the real purpose of fixing the Narrow Escape problem.
This is the 2D view. There will be a bend in it just below the adjustable post so it will look nice regardless of where the post is set.
[quoted image]
Awesome.....are u just making one
Quoted from Ricochet:Nope... gonna make several
Just a thought, but if u didnt actually want to make several I could actually talk to Cliff (Cliffy protectors) and see if he can make them? He just lives down the road from me ... just a thought
Quoted from RobDutch:Joined the club just now!
Perfect playfield, non touched boards just right and front faded.
1 hour drive for a machine that was on my wish list for so long, price was great. (And the very kind seller has the same first name as me lol)
Couldn't be happier, think it fits our collection perfectly
[quoted image]
congrats....
Quoted from RobDutch:Anything I can do about airballs caused by the center targets (ENT)?[quoted image]
If u don't have air ball protectors balls fly all over the place....Davi makes great ones although I'm not sure he has any left in stock....DJShakes also makes a nice air ball protector.
Quoted from RobDutch:Just ordered a set from davi , they look great!
Thanks for helping both of you
Nice u won't be disappointed.....they are high quality and really help
Quoted from amxfc3s:Thanks guys. The ball stops at the post, then when it drops, the ball continues on left across the ramp. I'll bend that tab back and give it a bit more pitch.
Not sure what others are at, but my pitch is at 6.8 ....
Quoted from Ricochet:Prototyped the right outlane ball guide.
I put extra length on it to give it a bend to make a soft edge for when the post is all the way to the right. Welp with the plastic on there ... it’s just not necessary. I’m gonna rev it to get rid of the bend and extra material.
I think it looks good (except for the tape that’s holding it)... and it serves a real purpose.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow great work....
Quoted from Ricochet:I just finished my last tweaks to the right outlane ball guide. I've sent it to Cliffy and let him have it... although this is such a trivial bit of work he could have turned it out in a millisecond. None the less ... if it's something people want the demand will drive its availability. I'm not going to get in the business of making them... I was going to but I just don't have the bandwidth... sad but true.
Great idea I'll stop by his house and bug him for one
Quoted from Ricochet:Yeah someone told me they lived close ... and gave me the idea
Ha...do you have drill new holes into the play field ? Sorry I didn't look close enough at the design .... If u didn't want to make and sell them I would have asked for the design template and gave it to Cliff to make (with your permission of course)....
Quoted from Ricochet:Yes you do. 2 of them. This is something that I had to come to grips with. I think the aesthetic of it beats the hesitation to drill. But it’s certainly a personal issue.
No big deal....u can't see them anyways....thanks for solving this problem for everyone
Quoted from Ricochet:Quick draft of my thoughts on this (it is literally a doodle... no numbers)... It will be 16 gauge stainless. I'm going to try and widen it a bit because when it is bent it will pull in some (there is about 1/8" on each side of play)
I've a few sizes of rubber bumpers coming from marco that I'm going to try. I'm hoping they wont be needed but if they work and improve the performance I may just go with them.
[quoted image]
Looks good....are u utilizing the existing mounting holes? Do you think 16 gauge is rigid enough to take a beating? or is the thought that the steel would absorb /deflect upon impact ?
Quoted from Ricochet:Yes (i will only use two of them) and yes .. the one I have measures out to 16 gauge-ish.
Due to its angled design it will sit back a bit more than the original... I'm hoping that will be advantageous.
I think with the addition of the pads the protector will need to sit back a little. When u get close I can bring the design over to Cliff and have him make up a couple proto types for testing.
2 weeks later
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Hey fellow IJ fans!
If you missed out on the first round of my shiny Lost Treasure target decals, I've just got a bunch more in if you're interested!
[quoted image]
I've upgraded my process, so now instead of hand-punching the backing foam, everything is machine cut for maximum precision. I know you don't care about that, but maaaan...what a lifesaver. I can't tell you what a time-sucking pain it was carefully cutting all those backing rings by hand.
Since this pin has golden treasures worked into the theme, I really dig having extra metallic accents in there. I wonder if there are any other pins that could benefit from this treatment?
These really look nice !
Quoted from Ricochet:Cliffy now has my right outlane guide! He sent me one !!! He elongated the mounting holes a bit so it gives you a little adjustment.
[quoted image]
Looks great
Quoted from Ricochet:Working on proto 1 of the deflector ... blue bumper is an experiment
Not done yet... trying to get the angles right without violating the height limit.
[quoted image][quoted image]
They look promising....its deceiving how little room there is under there
Quoted from Ricochet:The one on the left is factory equivalent.
Bending heavy gauge stainless ain’t easy without a heavy duty brake. I’m hoping to get it good enough and then turn it over to be manufactured by someone else
I‘ve considered resigning the entire area ... plastic and all. Hoping not to have to do that.
I see where your going on this. Assuming u utilize the existing mounting holes is there enough room for a ball to fit between the blue pad and the play field? I had problems on mine with I used a thicker pad.
Quoted from Ricochet:Not done yet ... angle isn’t right. It needs to be more acute to work with the bumper... and I’m not sold on the bumper at this point. It will be easy to test with or without it.
Gotcha!
Quoted from DeeGor:Has anyone tried using a magnet on the back of the original deflector? The strength of the magnet would be something that would need to be determined. If it's too strong, it could pull shots in that wouldn't normally make it. Too weak and it would be ineffective.
I would like to try it, but I have a lot of different projects going on, and I dread the idea of pulling off the POA.
Pulling off the POA really isn't that bad....
Quoted from DeeGor:I should have said putting it back on and getting it aligned properly.
Yea....after taking mine off and on several times trying to figure out the issue it turned out the problem was the opto board. I replaced it and my POA has been flawless sense.
Quoted from Ricochet:Another Z
I think I’m going to try these today
[quoted image]
They look promising....I can't imagine bending that steel is easy....I wonder if working with smaller gauge steel first would be a lot easier until u get the geometry right....
Quoted from Ricochet:This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!
This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.
With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.
[quoted image]
Awesome....was all prepared to be a test case for u
Quoted from Ricochet:This one (hi-Z) works PHENOMENALLY !!!
This is a difficult metric to collect. All I can say is that every time I tried to get the shot... from either flipper it stuck!! Random fall-ins during game play or multi ball were not considered.
With the factory deflector ... I could rarely make the shot with the right flipper. In fact I was resigned to just making it with left flipper.
[quoted image]
Is there enough vertical height to install a foam pad to dampen the shot?
Quoted from Ricochet:Finally got Cliffy's right outlane guide installed properly... Fits perfect. Closing this one out as done done.
Here are some install pics:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/23TQc1cqutGBnz1A7
I used electrical tape to get the position right... Set the post to far left... and that determined my Y position of the guide... then picked a happy X position by making sure the distance between the switch and the guide was sufficient that the guide will do its job. Cliffy ob-longed the holes a bit which is a nice touch for that adjustment (especially if you have drilled your screw holes a little off-center).
Drilled 1/16" pilot holes (not all the way through... just a bit), counter sunk then secured with two #6's
[quoted image]
Well done !
Quoted from Ricochet:Z-flector proto 2 comes in tomorrow... I will have them made and tested this weekend. Yeah that’s right I’m calling it the “Zee”flector... instead of Deflector ‘cause I’m old and I find punny things funny.
I like it
Quoted from Utesichiban:What are the Lior mods?
He made some nice mods for IJ....Ruins, POA, apron, and idol. I don't think the ruins, idol, or POA rails are available anymore? I have seen the apron.
Quoted from Ricochet:Not sure why ... but all this bending has made me want to take a nap
[quoted image]
They look good....what did you use to bend?
Quoted from Davi:Radcal is translucent - make sense to remove the old artwork.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-regular-and-glitter-playfields-radcals-decals/page/2#post-5730417
RadCals seem like a nice product, but one of the big advantages (or so I thought) was that u could install over the old decals thus eliminating removal of the old decals, which is a pain in the butt. Since thats not the case wouldn't it be better to use standard decals?
Quoted from Buellxb12r:Thanks for the info, had no idea there were early versions until I did some research. I have stainless steel ell rails.
[quoted image]
You either have a sample game or a prototype game depending on your play field. I have a sample game as well, but it has the red POA rails
Quoted from Manny65:Other than the stainless steel ball guides on the POA, were there any other differences with the prototypes? I'm assuming it had the PF backboard plastic?
My understanding is that prototypes had "Dad" instead of "Dr Jones" on the play field art. Rumor has it about 20 of these were made. The samples had an extra board on the back panel behind the bridge plastic (3, 555 Lights), and some of those had POA rails. I was told about 200 of these are in the wild. Apparently some of the play fields were made with mylar play field protectors as well. Mine has one of these. The good news is the play field looks almost perfect, but the bad news is I'm scared to take it off.
Quoted from koops:Taking this to the extreme what would the "perfect" shape be?
As the ball only touches a single point my guess is a 3 dimensional parabola with a focus point that is below the playfield and into the saucer?
The shape would be similar to the inside of a headlight. That way regardless of where the ball hits it would go in?
Exclude any areas that the ball cant physically hit due to the side rails and top plastic and you'd probably have a curved sheet.
Theoretically this sounds correct. Manufacturing this product would be another story
Quoted from Ricochet:Doubtful it’s the motor.
Likely it’s intermittent optos on the POA opto board. It has two optos that determine the position of the POA.
I'm almost 100% certain this is the issue. Mine did the same thing and fixing the opto board solved the problem
Quoted from Buellxb12r:The poa on ij that I just bought seems to have an issue tilting left correctly. It struggles and moves slowly, but tilts to the right very quickly. Does this indicate a faulty motor? It does it in test mode also. Is there something I could do to "loosen" up the motor to make it run smooth? The motor actually looks pretty new. So I'm hoping I won't need to purchase a new one.[quoted image]
Very little chance its the motor.....as the others have said clean/rebuild or replace the opto board .... my POA was doing the exact same thing.
Quoted from WillSmuz8999:I was surprised - the design team names were omitted on the prototype playfield.
[quoted image]
Very cool that u have a prototype play field. It looks like u have a factory installed play field protector as well. Have u thought about removing it? I'd like to remove mine, but scared I'll pull artwork from the original play field.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Opto board.
Clean the optos.
If that doesn't work, rebuild or replace the board.
Personally, I would just replace the board and the motor controller board too, if it hasnt been done already.
Where did you buy your motor driver board? I may pick one up just in case
Quoted from pinballinreno:Marcospecialties or k's arcade.
The homepin motor board works well for me, but the opto board was from anarchy or someone else.
Stay away from the homepin opto boards, they don't work.
As far as motors, every single one i bought in the last couple years was wired backwards internally.
Red dot to black wire fixed them.
Instead of red to red.
Test with a 9v battery before installing to be sure.
Thanks
Quoted from pinballinreno:30 years old now.
$2500 maybe less depending on condition.
Inserts are probably sunken now.
Some corrosion etc.
It will have to be completely disassembled and clearcoated.
So, $1000 for the playfield that needs work.
$1500 for the parts maybe.
It will cost $1000 or more to get it into shape.
Do these older play fields typically have sunken inserts?
Quoted from Ricochet:Welp my first beta test of the ZFlector was a flop!
I’ve 4 more testers out there but if it doesn’t work for one ... it will be an issue for others.
It’s a bummer because it works nearly perfect for me. For the others out there ... don’t be surprised if your experience is not great.
This is why we test.
Interesting! I haven't received mine yet...once I do I'll test away.
Quoted from Pbpins:I do indeed know of one!!!
Very cool! How much is he asking? I wonder if its a prototype or sample play field?
Quoted from xfassa:I am in need of IJ plastic set. I purchased a repro set from a reputable vendor. However, the repro set is a very light orange compared to the original. I was told by the vendor, all repro sets will look like this as the films came directly from PPS. Is this true??? Does anyone have a repro set that looks more like the original? Thanks for any feedback.
[quoted image]
Wow thats really far off .... Davi makes a great plastic for the jack pot area
3 weeks later
Quoted from Digduglus:Its been a long year and a half of restoring this in the tiny amount of free time I get. It came in filled with spider webs, water damage, and fried boards. I had never shopped a pin before, let alone restored one, but I wanted to learn. I'll never be all the way finished, (pinsound, sideblades, shaker motor, topper, etc etc etc to do) but I'm happy with the 99 percent complete result. Here are some after and before photos, and I'm looking forward to next summer's project.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great....I really like the black powder coated trim....
Quoted from Digduglus:Adam's gold, it's black with gold specks. I'm already doing LOTR in gold so wanted something different, amd i like that the legs blend with the pillars on the corners
[quoted image]
Nice....I will say that upgrading the sound package is awesome on IJ....pin sound + board with new speakers is a really nice upgrade
Quoted from Digduglus:Any suggestions on speaker set?
I bought the Flipper Fidelity set for the PinSound board.....It sounds fin....I hear pin woofer stuff is great
1 week later
Quoted from tilt-master:Not sure if it has been posted. Has anyone experienced a ball coming down the left wire form and instead of dropping in the inlane, the ball hops to the outlane and drains? This has occurred a few times to me, very frustrating!
is that even possible? how often does it happen?
Quoted from Jazzbouche:Finally figured out the drop target 'ruins'. been testing these all summer so I know they are robust. Any interest? Not sure on prices yet. I might need to tweak them to make sure they will work with Cliffys in place so they're not ready yet anyway, but thought I'd see what you guys all think.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice
Quoted from radial_head:So I know it's been brought up a million times that the right flipper is a little too strong for its own good and have heard of people replacing it with a weaker coil. Has anybody tried this for both flippers? Should I still be able to make the jackpot ramp from the left flipper with a weaker coil?
Why do they think its too strong? Theres no way I would reduce coil power on the flippers. The ramps are too steep on IJ
Quoted from radial_head:Well, people seem to be replacing their right flipper with a lower power all throughout this thread to reduce airballs and scoop rejects. Indy is at a friend's house right now and he asked about it. Good to know. I'll leave them be.
I would purchase the air ball protectors from @Davi...they are money....It only took 25 years, but Ricochet has come up with a solution for the mode hole
Quoted from Chet_Hardbody:How hard is this game on factory settings in general? I'm pretty new to pinball and I rented this machine as of yesterday. I find hitting the ramps super difficult, in fact the only shot that I hit consistently is the super jackpot up the middle that I don't actually want to hit because it comes back down the middle. I also seem to drain super fast down the sides because my ball control is so bad. I wanted to know if these shots are actually difficult, or if I'm just terrible.
Yea that right ramp is a challenging shot especially if your flippers are weak. None of the ramps can be back handed in the game so that also makes it a challenge. Practice makes perfect Now that my mode deflector performs at a peak level I find that I play the entire game, which is far more enjoyable. Also if your POA is working well thats a lot of fun as well. The moral of the story is the game really needs to be dialed in so everything is working properly. Once you get there the game is really fun.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Well Indy fans this is something I have wanted to do for a long time. I present to you the notorious, the rare, the holy grail of IJ's only 1/24 the size. The Disneyland IJ Miniature; complete with mahogany trim, baboo legs, and it even has rope. [quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice
Its really a personal preference ..... I have the LCD and really like it...it it better? not really....at the end of the day its such a big upgrade over the standard DMD it really doesn't matter.
Quoted from orlandu81:Has anyone had a problem with the playfield glass rattling with the Pinsound + shaker? This is pretty specific...so I apologize. The combination of my PDI glass and the shaker (on the lowest setting) causes a vibration that rattles 1) when the ball goes up the right ramp when lit, and 2) when the ball goes nuts with the pop bumpers. I guess I could alter the vibration settings in the pinsound app to be reduced, but would prefer more shake and less rattle.
I've tried fabric tape and it helps, but it doesn't stick to the glass and often times gets jammed in the slot so every time I remove the glass the tape comes with it. I have some thin 1/16 weatherstripping on order from amazon I can try but I fear that is too thick. My side rails and insert plastic is locked in nice and tight...I recently replaced the stock armor with Robert Stone powder coated armor so it is perfect. Maybe it is too perfectly tight?
Any proposed ideas to keep the playfield glass nice and snug in there would be helpful. I have the same PDI glass in my Ghostbusters (Premium/LE) and it is tight as a drum with zero rattle.
I don't think the glass matters (at least on my games)....PDI, invisiglass, standard are all about the same thickness....have you tried felt tape? I used it on my MMRLE (along the top and bottom) and it worked well.
Quoted from Energyspike:I applied the tape, full strip, on top of the glass but only half of the tape sticking to the glass and used a blade guided by the edge of the glass to cut the second half. Both strips on top left / right of the glass will be hidden when you slide it back in and it will be much tighter of a slide.
I applied mine all the way across the top and bottom, and that did the trick. You have to see how much of a gap u have on the sides. If the gap is big enough u can apply there as well.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ill take one now!
Quoted from Ricochet:Shooting for having the mode hole deflector ready by the end of next week (fingers crossed). If the demand is there... I will have it available for sale on my pinside shop "Pin-Ups". There is another solution out there that just popped up today (spacers to drop the saucer and hardware)... seems like a good solution as well.
I will provide installation instructions and I will post a video of my solution in action once I get it finalized. PM me if you are interested... so I can get an idea of the initial quantity that I will need to get fabbed. Again, IF I get a decent amount of interest... I will stock it, if not then I will just sell them one-zee two-zee. I will also be selling some other items in the near future... simple stuff to make your game play better or easier to customize.
Thanks for being a part of this project... all your comments and help were very valuable.
Jim
I'm in as well
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Yeah that’s what I was thinking. Put washer spacers to tilt it. The tape technique looks legit as well. If the spacers don’t help I’ll try some tape
yea the last thing u want to do in IJ is steepen those ramps. I'd set the game at 6.5-6.8 degrees and call it good
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:New to the club and loving it. what a great pin!
My start mode is getting a bunch of kick-outs. Best way I've found is from the left flipper cradled. Really hard to hit with the right flipper and when I do, it bounces back out. I looked for a "sticky post" of common issues/fixes, couldn't find. Any help appreciated!
The best solution is to buy the new deflector @richochet has been developing for several months....its a game changer
Quoted from Ricochet:I might consider a tab that uses the center screw hole for the factory deflector. Really depends upon how it affects the placement of the curve and the rmanufacturing of it.
That’s not a bad suggestion
I highly doubt you'll need it....I think if the deflector gave a little its not a bad thing
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its not about major forces.
Its about repeated ball strikes over time.
A drop of rain can bring down a granite cliff, one drop at a time, over time.
Incredibly robust, steel mechanisms in a pinball machine get shredded over time.
I hear ya, but in this case I don't see it happening...
Quoted from pinballinreno:I just finished about 20 games with the Davi airball protector.
What can I say, Its perfect.
Thanks Peter!
solves a big problem....especially if you have Korn's planes
Quoted from pinballinreno:Can Korn fix mine? (see above...lol)
I bet he can....his planes are really nice...prior to those air ball protectors I was scared to death they would end up like yours Although it appears you've recovered well !
Quoted from transprtr4u:Joining this club , Saturday morning pick up!
Guess I have pages and pages to read to catch up!
Please advise of any necessities that are a must for this game.
IJ is an incredible game if its dialed in, and everything is working properly. That being said there's a few issues u need to address in order to fully experience the game. The first is the mode hole deflector. With the current factory deflector u can nail from the left flipper, but doesn't work properly from the right flipper @richochet has solved this problem so get on his list to pick up the new deflector. For me this was a game changer as enjoying all the modes is a lot fun (versus just going for jackpots). The second is getting the POA working properly (its finicky). Once it works properly its a lot of fun. The third is preventing all the air balls from the drop targets Davi has solved this problem.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Welcome, Edmonton!
From, Calgary
At the absolute bare minimum, you'll need:
- Plastic Protectors
- Cliffy Protectors
And you'll never regret a ColorDMD.
I also recommend the Lost Plastic (if yours doesn't already have) and installing the backbox jackpot lights.
Though there are many, many more (and you're going to hear about them here), those are the must-haves for me. Everything else is gravy.
Totally agree on these upgrades. Also the pin sound + board and new speakers is a great upgrade (along with adding high quality sound files), and adding LED's to the game. Everything else is eye candy and a personal pref.
Quoted from orlandu81:I have the aaronzoom drop target decals and ADV URE decals on my machine and they are a very nice visual upgrade, and go great with the proper LEDs. I plan on ordering another set to have just as a spare.
I second this
Quoted from Davi:Reproduction is possible. I can send the unfinished part, or send it with chrome or brass finish.
For example this is a brass plated repro set:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Well done
Quoted from 3pinballs:Question, does this help the ball from bouncing back out and not going into the hole?
I have a Cliffy installed and someone said that that might cause lift causing it not to go into the hole.
Also, Steve at Pinball Resource told me a long time ago, and I did this, was to go down in Coil Strength and that will keep plastics from breaking. I can hit all shots, but right ramp seems like I should have kept it original. Even with the weaker coils the balls still bounces out from the center hole.
Any input would be great!
Leave the Cliffy, get @richochet new deflector, weaker coils will be problematic in IJ as the ramps are too steep, plastic protectors help, if Davi decides to do another run of the air ball plastics make sure you get on the list.
Quoted from Davi:I hope this summary helps about IJ modes.
[quoted image]
Planes:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-plane-rescue-service
Airball deflector:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/118#post-5621982
Target decals:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/122#post-5685005
Start mode deflector:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/134#post-5866144
Pop bumper cap:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-pop-bumper-cap-ruins
Great summary....my only comment is you have two air ball deflectors (don't sell yourself short ) as theres also one on the single drop target....I stand corrected you mention it in the description...I just looked at the image
Quoted from Ricochet:I wanted to post this ... seeing how I’m going to be selling something soon and you’ve not seen the prototype working ... just so you have some confidence
Bear in mind ... before you go and critique it and ask for slo-mo vids... the final design fits a little differently. However the conical shape is the same (maybe a little steeper). What you are seeing in the video is NOT the latest rev. So if you are looking at it and think “maybe he should do this ... or what about that”... don’t worry.
... and this me just throwing the ball at it... nothing to scientific for certain.
At the moment I’m tweaking the rear tab mounting ... is a little tricky... almost there.
i'm impressed with your ball throwing skills...
1 week later
Quoted from PiperPinball:Late to the club.
Making some new Indy mods’
Anyone interested in a set of custom wood rails for POA. pm me.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice work....how are u planning to finish them?
Quoted from PiperPinball:Experimenting with some bamboo...[quoted image]
clever .... be nice if u could match the bamboo look on the POA rails...maybe a burn technique?
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Off the plunge, I’m getting about 90% (maybe more) through the I lane (of the INDY at the top). Table is level (at least in the middle). Is this normal behavior or should I dig deeper and get under the machine and raise the rear left or lower the rear right?
Probably need to bump the table to get it to change. I've found that my trigger coil is all over the map, which is probably a good thing.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mine was too.
I just replaced the entire mech $39
Now its solid and perfect.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Set the game pitch to 6 or 6.1 degrees average.
I think 6.5 is too much, the ramps are very steep.
True on the steep ramps....I have mine at 6.5....If I lowered I'm sure game play would be easier (especially the POA)
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ive set mine all over the place.
Long games suffer from flipper fatigue etc.
6 degrees is just about right for this game, even 6.1 is a stretch.
I've never gone below 6.5...I did have my game at 7, and then 6.8, and now at 6.5....theres so many things that get affected i.e. POA performance, mode hole performance, etc...Can u back hand ramps at 6 degrees? That would be a nice option
Quoted from pinballinreno:Ive set mine all over the place.
Long games suffer from flipper fatigue etc.
6 degrees is just about right for this game, even 6.1 is a stretch.
from my left flipper I can't backhand the left ramp...its close...I get about 80-90% of the way, but just not quite there....I wonder if u can get there at 6 degrees. Also what coils are u using in your flipper coils? I think mine are 29's?
Quoted from PiperPinball:Id like to try one of these please. Add me to your list.
you won't be disappointed....it works great
Quoted from transprtr4u:Also installed the light missing for the ball guide lane to the right of the "Y" in Indy...
The playfield underside was dimpled where the light was supposed to be however not installed. Mabe this was just overlooked in my game?
[quoted image]
Thats interesting. I thought all games had this light? Mine has it, but its a sample game. I lite my idol as well (the way I did it was Korns idea)....it looks great
Quoted from Manny65:How did KF light the idol?? Any pics or post links??
My KF planes are inbound, so might be time for a few enhancements ... oh and ricochet's deflector hopefully soon as well (Christmas is coming early)
Installed 2 Amber LED strips on both sides of the idol....gives a great lighting affect....
IMG_3549 2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ricochet:I must admit... I'm not much into aesthetic changes to Indy playfield decorum... but the combination of that idol and ruins looks pretty darned good (even if it is sideways ).
sorry about that...deflector performance still going strong I finally beat my MMRLE game the other day so now back to my IJ. I'm not sure its possible to beat IJ? is completing the game when u collect all the modes and trying to collect the 1 Billion prize? I've gotten there twice and wasn't close to hitting every shot. The challenge is the POA....
Quoted from orlandu81:I've been playing IJ a lot lately trying to get better. I've had it since the beginning of the pandemic and it took me a month to wipe out the computer from the top 5 scores. This game is quite a grind, but in a fun way. I am slowly getting better and better, but have a long way to go. Scored ~875m last week and am averaging higher scores each round. My machine is super dialed in at 6.5 degrees (only missing Lao's Antidote)...I really hope to see Wizard Mode before the end of the year.
I have played a lot of games, and the wide range of skill levels that IJ caters to is incredible. The game was fun when I didn't know anything, it was fun when I thought I knew everything, and it's still fun today with all my strategies.
Once I installed the new deflector it was a game changer to me. Prior to that I would get so many drop outs from the deflector I ignored modes and would go for jackpots instead. Now that I have the new deflector its completely changed the game play experience. Now I purposely go for modes, which completely changes the game play experience. Its really a game changer.
Quoted from orlandu81:Actually I have a mode start fix I deploy which gives me about a 80-90% stick rate at the moment. Lao's Antidote will give me my thud and the remaining 10-20%.
At first I was all mode start...thinking that was the best way to grind out points. What was happening was I was taking too many high risk shots towards the mode hole and since I wasn't the best with my shots I would hit a post and get a drain quite a bit. Now what I do is every shot is calculated. For example, ball coming mid-speed down the right in-lane with ball lock open on just the right side and well of souls + hand of fate is the mode option = take a risk and go for the mode hole.
Strategies will only get me so far...practice and consistent shot accuracy will get me to the wizard mode!
Sounds like your on the right track I know a lot of people removed the factory deflector and replaced it with foam so the mode hole shot was reliable. I prefer the "thud" sound as well. The challenge has always been from the right flipper. The new deflector solves that problem.
Quoted from orlandu81:I actually am using a ricochet proto....the Z-flector + Pad on the plastic as a temporary solution until I have Lao's Antidote in hand. Less thud, but the pad lasts 10X longer than my previous fix of moving the original deflector back and raising it up slightly.
This is all moot once the Antidote is available.
I tested that deflector as well. The final version out performs the Z version....
Quoted from Ricochet:Deflector update...
I was able to make the pre-production batch. I've to tweak the lid a bit. This stuff is a bit tricky to deal with because I want to make sure I have enough margin for slight variances. There is a potential for problem with the ramp optic ... I need to open up the margin there.
Also... wife had knee surgery yesterday. I'm able to get my designs tweaked but my trip to the post office is delayed.
Thanks for your patience.
PS. I can say I am DONE with scoop tweaks. Capture curve and feeder tabs are where they need to be. It’s a pretty complex piece. Drawing something in 2D and fabricating it to a 3D piece (especially with compound angles) is an exercise for the brain. I’m a software engineer by day... mechanical/CAD hacker at night and I am learning that I am only OK at the latter
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well done
Quoted from Chet_Hardbody:I know no one cares, but IJ is my first foray into pinball. After a month I FINALLY knocked off one of the default high scores. Some of the shots seem so hard for me, especially the right ramp and the mode start (ball pops out often). Also a lot of SDTM after plunging. The game is super fun though.
How would you guys compare a game like IJ to newer games like JP2? I'm curious how different gameplay is.
IJ is one of the best games of all time if you get the game dialed in correctly. Its critical that the mode start works properly and that your POA works as designed. Both these areas are problematic on IJ. For the mode start hole get on the list to pick up the new deflector as it works great, and changes the game experience dramatically. The POA is an entirely different animal, but most of the issues are with the opto board, and motor.....IJ also has steep ramps so make sure your game is set at the right level and that your flippers are strong enough
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:It really does hold its own for how old it is, and I have mine sitting next to a JP2, AIQ LE, JJPOTC, MMr, AFMr, and Addams Family (which also holds its own as a great shooter, shallow rules). The first three in that list have a deeper ruleset (do this, do that, then this, etc), but IJ is pretty damn perfect. My IJ is pretty new to me, but so far love it.
I have many of the same games with very deep rule sets. I think the beauty of games like IJ, MM, AFM, TAF are they are very approachable with rule sets that are really easy to digest quickly, yet the games are not easy to beat. The newer games i.e. POTC, WW have rule sets that take a long time to fully understand let a lone explain to guests who have never played. I'm still trying to fully understand WW.....u really need a color dmd, and pin sound to add to the IJ experience
Quoted from Trogdor:Holy complicated metal bending! A hard 3D printed plastic wouldn’t do? You are something else, Ricochet!
wouldn't take the punishment ....trust me this is what u want on your game...changes the entire game experience
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Totally agree and even when you know the rule set, sometimes I just don’t want to think that hard!
I’ve got a color DMD, is the pinsound worth it on IJ? To improve the sounds or add your own?
Night and day difference in sound quality. PinSound board + pin woofer speakers...search this forum for others opinions...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pinsound, flipper fidelity speakers and the pinsound shaker.
If you dont have it already, LEDOCD and GIOCD.
I haven't tried the pinSound shaker yet....are u happy with it?
Quoted from Ricochet:Butting in here ...
Default shakerizations for Indy are too aggressive IMHO.
The suck of how they implemented it is that you basically can’t customize the PinSound shakerizations. As soon as you touch it... you loose all of the PinSound shakerizations and you have to start from scratch. It just needs a few tweaks to make it better. Like removing shake on the pops... and dialing back the intensity here and there.
Thanks for the input....so in your opinion its not worth it? This was the last upgrade I was considering for my IJ
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:Ricochet, please put me on your list too! I get 7 out of 10 kick-outs each time, very frustrating. Thank you.
u won't be disappointed....changes how u play and experience the game....he did a great job
Quoted from orlandu81:I am far from an amazing player I assure you, but I also don't believe you should be able to hit the right ramp from a standstill with the right flipper in this game. But as you said, if it makes it more fun for the average player then go for it, at 6.0 you will see many more billion point games as it will become much much easier. I have my Indy next to my Ghostbusters which is inherently fast, and I've been playing the new Turtles quite a bit too which is even faster. At 6.5, Indy is still slower than these other two (albeit not by much).
I think what makes this game challenging is hitting the ramps consistently. I have mine setup at 6.5 and I can't back hand either ramp. I was going to lower mine to 6.1 just to see how it plays. If u can back hand both those ramps + slow down the POA it clearly makes the game easier to play. I was gonna try it on mine and see what happens.
Quoted from Ricochet:My favorite shot is the captive ball ... I love the feel of it both when collecting the treasure and progressing through the castle.
What’s yours ???
I like pounding that captive ball on super jack pots
Quoted from orlandu81:So I figured I would share this info in case anyone is interested...my home arcade is in the garage and it is below the master bedroom. In the evenings if I want to play my machines I need to use headphones. With the Pinsound + board I also got the headphone station and keep a good pair of headphones there for when needed.
The problem is I hate visible wires. They drive me bonkers. So I looked into wireless headphones and found a transmitter and headphone combo I like that has no noticeable delay. Both the transmitter used and the headphones used must have the aptX LL (low latency) codec or there will be significant delay. Most of the big name headphones don't bother with this codec, because most people are just listening to music or talking on the phone. So be sure to get headphones that have this codec...and when paired with the transmitter it is a nice benefit to not have wires anywhere. I just walk from machine to machine plugging in the transmitter.
Headphones I bought:
amazon.com link »
Transmitter used:
amazon.com link »
So does that transmitter plug directly into the PinSound + board?
Quoted from Ricochet:When did you go through this discovery with them? Recently?
I have used their products on multiple machines, and they have always been great.
Quoted from orlandu81:$50 more than the pinsound product and no place to hang your headphones? What’s the benefit of this?
Its a much cleaner look.....now that being said I like the blue tooth headphone idea although its nice to have external volume control
Quoted from orlandu81:Well whichever headphone station you choose, remember:
- for WIRELESS, you need a transmitter and headphones that have the aptX LL codec
- for WIRED, you can’t use headphones that are meant to go with a phone. In other words, if you have headphones that are meant to be integrated with an iPhone it WILL NOT WORK with the pinsound board. I get massive interference and feedback when using my Bose noise cancelling set (both of them) that I normally use in travel. Headphones need to not have the controls that make the connector have the extra ring around it.
Thanks for this information...one thought on the head phone hanging comment. I install pin gulps on all my pins so I just hang the headphones over those, and then plug into the game when I need them.
Quoted from orlandu81:External volume can be controlled with the volume pot on the pinsound headphone station too. It controls the main sound or if Headphones are plugged it in adjusts the volume on those instead. On the drinks...my arcade was Vid based first...so I have these custom metal drink holders which stand on the ground in front of the video machine so I don't use pin gulps personally. Again, a matter of personal taste. All of these products are great, I'm happy we have lots of choices.
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very cool....so the pin sound headphone station is hardwired to the pin should board? Where do you route the wires under the cabinet? Do you have the blue tooth connected to the headphone station ?
Nervermind I see thats its connected to the headphone jack ! I like the idea if connecting one at the board if u can make it work?
Quoted from SGSA:I had forgotten that you can do that with PinSound by opening up the Back Box. Thanks for the reminder
Choice is a wonderful thing. We sell their headphones station on our website and they sell our PinSound compatible headphone kit on their site.marka (our engineer) had spent a fair amount of time looking into having a bluetooth option but decided against it.
I wonder why? was it a cost issue?
Quoted from orlandu81:The station (both versions) connect using a Cat 5 (?) cable to the pinsound board, but there is also a 3.5mm female jack on the board too
You can connect the transmitter directly to the pinsound board if you like, but then how will you turn it on? I guess theoretically if you don't have the station and wanted it hidden fully, you would need to have the transmitter powered at all times and just stay on always...even if there are no headphones connected. I wish there was integration, but both pinsound and pinnovators choice to leave it out, which makes sense. Most people are fine with the wired headphones, and the ones that aren't often overreact to the sound delay because they aren't using LL headphones/transmitter.
I'm wondering if u connected that transmitter to the headphone jack (and left it on all the time) if the sound would only be directed to the headphones? U would need a way to switch from head phones to normal use.
Quoted from orlandu81:Good question, but i think they thought of a solution. On the pinsound board, there is a toggle switch that mutes the speakers when headphones are plugged in, or simply not. You can have the speakers stay UNmuted and just raise the volume of the speakers using the buttons on the coin door.
Be nice to see if this works or not. So if u don't connect your headphones via BT the default sound is directed through the speakers in the back back, and volume is controlled with the knob on the pin sound headphone station (or the volume on the coin door)? and once u connect your headphones its redirected?
Quoted from MarkA:A few reasons for not jumping on Bluetooth:
1. It takes some effort to support it! It would probably take over the majority of the support we give.
2. Latency in the headphones. The small time delay may bother some people. I believe there have been improvements in latency since I last investigated the topic.
3. What happens when you want to jump from game to game with the same BT headphones? The pairing time may be a pain.
We did try plugging in a BT transmitter directly to the output of our PinPAC panel and that worked reasonably well! It's easy enough to buy a plug in transmitter for our panels.
Thanks ....
Quoted from Nomanimdave:I wonder what playfield angle PAPA has the IJ set in the Bowen Kerins tutorial video on YouTube? There is no way he makes all those shots at 6.5 or 7.0. Even at just under 6.0, the right ramp shot from the left flipper must be absolutely perfect to make it up the ramp, or it rolls back frustratingly. I just re-built both flippers and am using the coils called for in the specs. Also, I am looking forward to ricochet’s mode hole device, but I am still getting over 85% retention by removing the bracket and installing foam on the surrounding metal. I would not say that my now-dialed in machine is easy or even slow, but it is also not nearly as frustrating as never being able to complete certain modes or use the POA only 1-2 times per game.
Your going to really appreciate the new deflector design. I've been testing for over a month and its money from the right flipper (90%+). My game is currently setup at 6.5 and seems to play much faster than the video shown above (who knows maybe its just me). I'm gonna try @pinballreno suggestion at 6 over the weekend and see if I can make those ramp shots. He knows a lot about this game so maybe he's onto something.
Quoted from 3pinballs:How do I know if I'm having a problem with my POA?
Mine seems to work fine...goes back and forth, but maybe It doesn't - Can't wait to hear back from you...thx
If it moves back and forth smoothly, and u can hit all switches on the POA than your all good. On mine I had an opto problem on the board. Once I replaced that the POA has been flawless.
Quoted from orlandu81:Ok for my own sanity here, since there seems to be different thoughts on what the pitch should be, I took a quick video of my gameplay.
Before you mock my abhorrent gameplay, note I'm sitting down and just wanted to take a quick video. I normally don't have so many brick shots.
The pitch is 6.5, and it definitely moves hella fast. My flippers have no issues though, so I don't know if my flippers have upgraded parts or what (based on the condition I received this machine in, this is doubtful, but anything is possible).
Mode start hole is currently the proto Z flector (will replace with Lao's Antidote) plus a pad on the underside of the plastic.
Yours plays like mine....Looks like your Z deflector works pretty well. The one I tested worked better than factory, but not nearly as good as the new design. The problem is reliability from the right flipper.....by the way game blades look great on IJ
Quoted from 3pinballs:Moves back and forth fine, Have a hard time hitting all the switches but I think that's just me not timing it right
Than your probably all good.
Quoted from orlandu81:Z deflector only works well because of the pad I'm using under the plastic. Without the pad, the Z deflector works as you said, was probably about 40-50%. With a pad, I'm at 80-90%. I'm looking forward to Lao's Antidote simply because of 1) I miss the loud thud, and 2) I won't have to change pads every month or so anymore.
I have blades from kornfreak28 I just haven't installed them yet. They are uncut, so I need other blades to cut the proper shape before installing.
I didn't know Korn made game blades? Do you have a pic? u should get on his list for the planes...their interactive and a great look in the game. I've been testing the new design for a month and it works great. I configured my game as close to @Richochets as possible (same flipper coils, flipper rubbers, and pitch) with the goal of eliminating as many variables as possible. Mine has been very reliable so I'm pretty confident most will love it.
Quoted from Ricochet:[quoted image]
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Thanks...is that the mirrored CPR back glass? Looks nice
Quoted from Ricochet:Here is the routing guide for the IJ lamp board. Print to 100% scale.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LxkkR9dFZEiKoj5cStd0k7YLZfBzPH36/view?usp=sharing
Mine actually came with this complete from the factory....I was told this feature is in all sample games. Do you happen to have a routing template for the three jackpot areas?
Quoted from Ricochet:I can make that ... mine is quite intricate as it is the Pinbits version. They did a great job at making the cutout follow the artwork closely.
I hate to add to the list of your things to do I have the board https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/indiana-jones-jackpot-board-5745.html
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Thank you. I thought you meant under the playfield. Attached is what I've got, not sure exactly what it's supposed to look like, but pretty sure not like this, looks pretty mangled. Will start straightening some metal
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Thats a common problem on IJ. I think @richochet actually had a protector made for that area
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Already sent Cliff an email!
U might want to get Ricochet right out lane guard as well (Cliff makes these as well)....its another problem area he helped resolve...my kids love MMR as well
Quoted from Psw757:What exactly does this do for gameplay?
Agree with @pinballreno should have been there all along
Quoted from Psw757:You still making them?
If yes, I’ll take one and you can ship with mode scoop.
Gotta order from Cliff
Quoted from AaronZOOM:I did mine with a coping saw and a Dremel.
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Like the Pinbits version, I wanted to match it to the artwork so I wasn't lighting up the black areas to make it an ugly brown. Worked great!
Looks great
Quoted from pinballinreno:I do like the idol light!
Is there a link to the mod?
I just bought the kit from comet...a couple 5 LED strips, and then tapped into a GI light....cheap and easy...looks great
Quoted from PiperPinball:Had a little time today to finish up some mods!
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The bamboo is a nice touch along with the rope on the bridge well done
1 week later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Should I be able to shoot the right ramp from a cradle of the left flipper? I believe the answer is yes. Even when I hit it perfect, it gets almost all the way up and comes back at me. Have to get it on a roll. I’m set at about 6.1 degrees. I’m going to rebuild the flippers and hope that helps. Just got kit from Marcos today.
This game is the perfect level of depth in the ruleset and is just darn fun. So glad I added it to my collection! Can’t wait to get the mode start scoop, that drives me nuts when I get a reject!
I assume your talking about the left ramp and left flipper, because u obviously can hit the right ramp from the left flipper? I don't believe you can backhand any of the ramps.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Talking about cradling the ball in the left flipper (from a stop) and making it up the right (POA/Jackpot) ramp. When I do that it doesn’t make it all the way up. Maybe weak flipper.
You definitely have a weak flipper....change those coils out......
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:That’s where I was going to start, a rebuild kit. The springs on my current setup feel a little stronger than the stock WPC flipper springs, so just doing a rebuild and will report back.
As part of that process I would change out your coils...it might only be the sleeves, but your better off doing it all at the same time ...as you know IJ has really steep ramps
Quoted from Davi:Coil is good or bad, aging is not applicable for coils. If there is no visible damage (melted), and the resistance value is OK, I see no reason to replace it.
I realize that, but if your rebuilding the balance of the flippers I'd swap out the coils as well....its well worth $30
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Curious what every has their playfields set to. I just noticed mine was set at 8.5 degrees. I see the manual says 6-7 degrees. I moved it down to 7.25 and seems really floaty but ramps and wire forms see to flow better now. The speed was catching some balls.
Holy shit thats steep.....mine is at 6.5 and plays great, but some say the game plays better at 6...I haven't tried that yet. My guess is ramps would be a serious challenge at 8.5
Quoted from Scandell:Are you measuring the angle of the playfield? Or the glass?
I bet your right.....I'm not even sure I could get my IJ to 8.5 degrees let alone make ramp shots...probably pretty hard to play as well
Quoted from orlandu81:I like mine fast, but I know others on this thread like it a bit slower at 6.0. There is a pretty big difference in difficulty with this game if you adjust the pitch even a little I have found.
My strategy varies on the shot and situation...for example if the ball lock has all 3 drop targets UP and the mode on deck is a video mode (no chance of death) I will be more risky and go for the harder shot into the mode hole from the right flipper. Alternatively if the ball lock hole is open (drop targets are down) and the mode is one that I have a high risk of death (Get the Idol), I will aim for ball lock instead. Hand of Fate plays a role in these decisions too.
My point is...there isn't one strategy you can use because the game's scoring is quite balanced. You need to be good at everything in this game to score big...all shots need to be near perfect too. This is what keeps me coming back to it. As far as the super ball goes, I believe it is meant to entice the player to put in another quarter to get an extra ball as well as some eternal life time. As a result, mine is off 100% of the time.
Great game....prior to getting the mode hole fixed that was my strategy, but since the mode hole is now spot on I find myself working through modes along with pounding Jack pots.....once the mode hole is working properly it really changes the game experience (far more enjoyable), which is what makes this game so special.
Quoted from orlandu81:My mode hole is fine (90% stick rate), mathematically speaking I didn't go for the mode hole as many times as usual in this round given the circumstances previously mentioned. I found by going mode hole all the time is not the wisest strategy unless you are highly skilled at making that super fast shot from the right flipper. I can make it often, but...if you miss even a little and hit one of the posts there is a high probability of a fast drain, at least on my machine.
I hear ya....Its hard to go for modes if u can't nail the shot from the right flipper. I think my highest score is 2.3B (I earned two extra balls though) going for both modes and jackpots....obviously hitting Supers over and over adds up really fast, but I get bored just going for Jackpots. I'm still trying for the elusive 1B bonus ...the closest I've got is 2 shots away...
Quoted from AaronZOOM:The way it was originally designed, there is an angled metal plate behind it which is supposed to deflect an incoming ball down into the saucer, and also deflect the ball back towards the player when it is ejected.
Unfortunately, the metal plate has never worked very well for the majority of IJ owners. Typically, many shots directly into the mode hole will bounce right back out, meaning it can be difficult to start a mode, or complete any reward that requires the mode saucer. This is probably the most important shot in the game, and it's always been frustrating.
Since the dawn of time, IJ owners have tried to fix this problem so that the mode hole "sticks" better. From bending the original deflector, to replacing it, to removing it completely, there is a TON of information about what people have tried. Foam, rubber, prayers...you name it.
You may have noticed a lot of talk here lately about ricochet's upcoming deflector replacement called "Lao's Antidote." This is a complete metal replacement for the existing deflector plate, honed through clever engineering and rigorous testing. Once it's out in the wild, may we never have to fuss with the "mode hole problem" ever again.
Well said... I can confirm the rigorous testing as I've had mine installed for over a month and its money. Prior to installing @ricocets deflector I was getting probably 50% bounce outs from the right flipper....now its more like 5% .... now mine was his last prototype and not the final design (which appears to be an improvement )
Quoted from Toine79:Thanks for this solid and clear info.
Will buy one for sure if it is available.
Are there other mods available that level up the gameplay of this machine?
I'm no fan of stuffing the playfield with extra toys but will definitly install cliffy protectors, sleeves and this Lao Antidode.
Thanks for your answer.
In my opinion adding Cliffy's, air ball plastics (due to the drop targets), ricochets deflector, and plastic protectors are necessary. The most impactful upgrades are the color dmd, and pin sound board + new speakers. If you value quality sound and call outs than the pin sound board is a massive upgrade. The rest of the stuff is window dressing, but are big upgrades i.e. Korns planes, lost plastic, LED's, and game blades.
Quoted from transprtr4u:So I was just looking over the picture again ... where are the planes?
It looks strange without the planes
1 week later
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Since there's always new members to the club that may not be aware of the secret copyright-infringing Frog Bonus that took many years to discover, check it out here:
Wow I never knew this existed....thanks for sharing....stupid question: How do you hold down both flippers and press the start button at the same time? I only have two hands I guess I can use my knee or get one of the kids to push the button
Quoted from AaronZOOM:I can reach the start button with my thumb while holding the flippers, but maybe I have freakishly long thumbs? Now I think I'll be self-conscious about my thumbs for the rest of my life.
I'm also thrilled to see so many incandescent-bulb-lovers come out of the woodwork for this machine. And I thought I was the only one!
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I'll give that a try! Who knows maybe I have freakishly long thumbs as well? The only LED's I like in this game are the comet sunlights, but incandescents are great
Quoted from PiperPinball:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I like the look of the bi plane
1 week later
Quoted from radial_head:I’m absolutely not trying to rip on Cliffy, just trying to see if anybody has the same issue. Cliff, like plenty of the big names in the hobby, has done far too much for the hobby for anybody to be mad at him. Here’s my theory:
After 27 years of play, the scoop itself (the metal piece that Jim is properly redesigning) and the scoop hole have worn down. There is significant wear on the scoop hole and the scoop deflector has inevitably bent up slightly over time. In theory, if the scoop deflector had been designed perfectly, the scoop wouldn’t have worn down after rejection after rejection, adding the cliffy wouldnt have made a difference.
However, the scoop hole and deflector have worn down equally after nearly 30 years and correcting only one of them has made the reject rate far worse.
I have the Cliffy installed along with Ricochet new deflector (not the final version), and mine is almost 100% from the left flipper and probably 90% from the right flipper
Quoted from KornFreak28:Will it be necessary to remove the carbon fiber protector when the Antidote mod is installed? If so, any tips on how to avoid damaging the clear coat? Thanks!
Not necessary on my game
1 week later
Quoted from CashMoney:Ok everyone, if you could only pick 1 upgrade to do on IJ, which of these 2 would you pick?
1. Color DMD
2. PinSound package
I have both and its a tough choice....if I was forced to pick one it would probably be pin sound, but its really a toss up
Quoted from 3pinballs:Here's the Test Let me know if this is normal or If I have to adjust something thx
The good news is your opto board seems to be operating correctly. I would slide the play field forward as much as possible and then retest.
1 week later
Quoted from Jazzbouche:Hey Guys - I've been working on a topper some of you may be interested in checking out. I'm really pleased with how it's come out and will be offering a small batch run once finalised the details.
separate thread created here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-topper-1#post-6020037
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Well done....be nice if it was lite up and somehow it interacted with the game
Quoted from Ricochet:I'm working on it again Unfortunately I had to put it down for a couple of months. I've got some parts coming in again next week... When I picked it back up again last week... I did some more testing and found an issue with the lid being slightly too big.... I had a ball stick when it fell through the POA. This cause me to scrap a bunch of parts...
Again sorry for the delay and please excuse me for being paranoid about the final product... I don't want anyone to be disappointed... especially if you are paying for something.
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Thats too bad....theres always a price for perfection On another note the rev 2/3 deflector is performing well.
Quoted from DRDAVE:If you are referring to the problematic bounce outs this hole is plagued with, the ultimate solution is right here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ultimate-indiana-jones-bounce-out-fix-for-mode-start-saucer
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I tried that....didnt work well at all + the foam kept needing replacement...the new deflector design is money
Quoted from DRDAVE:My solution isn't foam, ITS THE BLUE SQUARE BUMPER. It is used on wire forms as a stopper in multiple games and has high wear resilience.
I know what your talking about....happy it works well for u
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:The original playfield is all cleared and polished and ready to go. The Spraymax is some awesome stuff.[quoted image]
wow that looks nice....did u clear coat yourself?
Quoted from DudeRegular:I really want one yes. But 11k is just a bit high .
Its a nice looking game, but seems a little overpriced to me especially with no color dmd, pin sound or other significant upgrades.
Quoted from Davi:Screen printed airball protector set is back in stock.[quoted image][quoted image]
These are a must have in my opinion....very high quality as well
Quoted from PeterG:Agree, pinsound shaker is great. Easy install.
So those of u with the PinSound shaker. Did u customize the shaking or did you use something from the PinSound website? Just wondering how much work it is to fine tune the shaker.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The shaker is native to the current firmware for IJ, its listed.
All of the listed games have shaker routines embedded into the pinsound firmware.
It should work without any adjustments or tweaking.
They spend a lot of time trying to make a plug and play solution that just works.
They do an awesome job, no adjustments are really needed.
However if you dont like theirs, you can spend hours or weeks making your own shaker routines by using the pinsound studio.
You cant tweak the pre-set. Its either you make your own, or use theirs.
Theirs is pretty good, they spent a lot of time on it.
Thank you....I don't have any interest in spending hours/days figuring out my own routine....sounds like its plug and play
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Sounds like you got a Great Deal on yours!
Yep....from a great seller Happy Holidays
Quoted from RobDutch:With the right tools, it's a piece of cake!
But ofcourse I don't have the right tools so it took me a long time
Ended up using a jigsaw tool, a dremel tool and a drilling machine.
I bought PinballPro speakers for my Shadow 7 years ago, and installation was so easy compared to this.
Ofcourse I have saved over €100 by doing this myself this time.
I have not decided on a sub yet, I don't like external ones and I don't want the bass to overshadow the higher sounds.. I'll let you know what I've got ones it is installed!
One of the first things I did to my game was install pin woofer speakers and sub. Although to my ears the sound was improved, but I really didn't feel the true impact of improved sound quality until I installed the PinSound + board.
4 weeks later
Quoted from Ricochet:Not yet I will at some point. Still tweaking the shaker
Looking forward to it....I've had the same observations u describe above
1 week later
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Also, what pitch are you guys at? I started at 6.5 and it felt slow and floaty (if that's even a word, lol). Bumped it up to 7 and it feels pretty good now.
I have mine set at 6.8 and it plays good....too steep and ramps get challenging
1 week later
Quoted from Ricochet:Mode Scoop "Lao's Antidote" Update
I want to give you all an update regarding Lao's Antidote, presently I am currently in a re-design phase. I've pounded the heck out of so many different options and have yet to find one where I am :
#1 Confident that paying customers will be 100% satisfied
#2 Is practical to make
Rest assured I am working on this thing weekly (every day in my head and on paper). I feel bad for the drag on the schedule but I have to be certain its right.
I already have a few folks in the hopper for testing and a few that I worked with early on. When the final design is tested by everyone... and they are satisfied, it will be made available.
I may be shooting for an unrealistic performance goal, but if I don't... it won't be what should be.
Thanks for your understanding
-Jim
I love the goal of perfection, but its simply not possible Looking forward to possibly testing the new design !
3 months later
Quoted from Ricochet:I’m getting bent this weekend
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[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Well done....great product (so was the last version).....all tested and working well on my end
Quoted from Turtlemaster:Hi guys.
Watching ricochet’s photo, I was wondering if you all have this ball guide on your IJ ?
I don’t have it and a friend of mine doesn’t have it either.
Is it useful ? Where can I buy one ?[quoted image]
Mine has it.....my guess is someone removed it at some point....
3 weeks later
Quoted from Jazzbouche:I like how it's Metal - But the design's not quite there though (for me) in terms of authenticity...ask me how I know
I like my Ark more life size - see below! But it doesn't smoke.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice...did u make that yourself? If so well done
Quoted from amxfc3s:I spent another hour on it tonight. No matter how much I adjust the kicker and coil bracket, or bend the end of the kicker, it still kicks out into the antidote's right side, then bounces across and hits the left side and often goes SDTM. I don't see a way to make it kick out without hitting it. I tried bending the end of the kicker arm to both sides and it doesn't make a difference.
As we all know these games are complex and people do all kinds of things to adjust their machines. That being said mine isn't close to SDTM, and works flawlessly. I hope u get it figured out soon.
Quoted from Trogdor:I have same issue. Haven’t had time to try remedies- thanks for posting efforts.
Are you using a protector on the mode hole with the antidote? If so, have you tried without? What kind of wood damage do you have under the protector?
For the record mine didnt have damage, but I do have a Cliffy protector installed.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Id like to see a short vid to help diagnose the problem.
This shouldnt be happening as the posts are still in the came location and the saucer should be in the same location etc.
No changes are made to the existing ball path.
So, unless it was doing it before the fix, Im at a loss without more info.
Again, does the ball go SDTM without the fix installed and going back to the original?
I totally agree that something sounds off....that being said its not my problem
Quoted from Ricochet:Me personally I prefer the original look of decals. I used original screen printed decals... If you've done Fish Tales then the experience should be very similar on Indy. There are a ton of do's and don'ts around here when regarding surface prep and installation.
[quoted image]
I agree, and I think the black powder coating looks the best...I have that on mine
Quoted from Soulrider911:I’m about to do decals on my Indy. For sure not doing rad calls. Personally I love the factory look, and I actually embrace the process. Going to sand, fill, paint, then re-decal… basically a cab restore rascals do look cool… but something about the nostalgia gets lost
Nice...are you going with stainless, powder coat, or brass?
5 months later
Quoted from BentleyBear:Just bought 3 center clear drop targets.
Any suggestions on what i can use to light theese up ?
Several people have installed translucent drop targets and lite them up from underneath (search this thread)....I actually bought the drop targets, but haven't gotten around to installing them yet....
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:here is Canada these go for a little less but I have not seen a good example yet, most are really beat to hell, which is why I ended up importing mine from the US.
It's always a challenge to find nice IJ's, and since its very unlikely they will ever get remade they become harder and harder to find. Seems like nice examples in the USA are selling for 13K+
1 month later
Quoted from paynemic:Not for me. I like the look but it’s not a home run. And definitely not at that price.
Totally agree....$1800 is a total joke .... I like the look, but that price is just stupid
Quoted from Ghiandalf:Lior mod available on Little shop of games.
Near 1800 usd
What do you think?
I already bought a part of this set in the past and I’m considering to complete my set but I must to buy all set pieces today
I'm sure a few people would buy, but its bout 2X overpriced....he makes decent stuff (I have the ruins and idol), but his pricing has got out of hand
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Very cool but at that price I would just buy a 3d printer and try my best to make my own.
By the time I am $1800 into it, I will most likely have awesome plastics and a new skill.
That is me, i am a nerd.
No doubt....u can buy a color dmd, pin sound + board, new speakers/sub, powder coat all your trim, legs and gun, and add Korn's killer interactive planes for less than the cost of this set....
Quoted from Williampinball:Ya that's what I thought way way too small and it over powers the game it self ,but great work too them just too many of them for that game ,less is always better
I thought that at first, but it actually looks pretty good in the game if u have the ruins (they match up well). If u didn't have the ruins it would look way too small.
Quoted from Ghiandalf:Thank you for your reply and suggestion about Lior customisation.
My decision is to ask a customisation of miniplayfield to a people that in the past customised my idol ruin.
I will install Lior ramp I already bought in the past.
I already bought pinsound, dmd color, Élite pinball topper, radical, gun wood plate, customised apron, plants and animals, Makrolon, all new switch, new ramps, new plastics, new screws and bolts. Ordered airplanes, light jackpot and bumper cover.
I’m considering Comet Led and I’m waiting a demo of customisation of siderails, legs, lockbar, coindoor, etc.
I want to engrave all parts.
Indiana is my favorite pinball, I already sold 3 Indiana to look for a perfect playfield as 10/10 and today I have what I want from more more years.
I’m open to all suggestion
I would highly suggest Comet sunlight for all your GI
Quoted from rx3:Does anyone know if the Endprodukt Pinsound file on the Pinsound site is current? I read that at one time it was missing callouts and he had an updated version that you had to contact him for. How do I contact him? Thx!
It's not his final version. I contacted him on PinSide and he sent me the final product.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Perhaps you can do a google drive link?
If it was my work I would, but he politely asks for a donation if u use his version
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Most likely needing a flipper rebuild.
I did that day one and I can get the ramp all day long.
Pitch is 7 degrees
I've never been able hit that ramp all the long Even with newly rebuilt flippers.....One of the challenges with that ramp is its fairly steep, and u can't backhand.
Quoted from rx3:Not yet, but will be installing my Pinsound today and will try it out. Endoprodukt hasn't answered my PM, but he's probably not on pinside everyday.
He answered mine today so maybe shoot him another PM?
3 weeks later
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:Thanks he ended writing a bit of offhand PM to me overnight which I was a bit taken a back by, having a bit of dig about my original post. I don't know how he expects pinsiders paying big money on his resin molded artworks not to share issues here. Same goes for any other mod in pinball and most other categories.
I shared this pic with him that demonstrates the issue at hand. It's like the final product shrunk down slightly given there's a gap when both pieces are separately screwed back on to the POA. Ironically from the front it side it's kind of disguised when you look it, so I may evaluate leaving it given it's a whole exercise for me to ship it back to LSOG etc from here. I've put a piece of 3M double sided tape (with only the one side attached) on it and will see how it looks when I've done the rest of the kit, which I probably won't get on to now for a few more days.
[quoted image]
The guy is a total drama queen.....yes he makes creative stuff, but when u have issues, and u post to a public forum he gets all bent out of shape...I've just stopped buying anything from the guy as its over priced anyways
1 week later
Quoted from Vaital:I tried to clean the optos, but difficult cause too small.
the motor is already replaced... so I saw that Marco has the opto board in stock and i will renew it cause the original yes, is from 1993
whats about the board that controls the motor? could this also be defective ?!!?!
see foto attached:
[quoted image]
I had the exact same problem and I just replaced the board, and it solved my problem....I highly suggest buying a new board
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