No, Zaccaria pinball isn't a new thing for me at all, I've been dedicated to collecting these machines for many years. However, I recently decided to start participating here on Pinside. Thanks for your warm welcome CaptainNeo

figured you were not new based upon the number of games you already had. Just new to pinside.

Welcome!

Maybe you have some left over farfalla parts!

Let me know.

I replaced my broken flipper coil today!

It wasn't shorted and actually tests out.

Only the plastic bobbin is cracked and broken where the leads attach.

But to avoid another fire....lol.

The coils from Marco are perfect.
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I finally installed my new driver board!

It amazing. I love the led read out for the coils, very cool.

Coil one shows locked on.
Its not, it's working perfectly, but its also not killing the transistor.

Transistor 14 smoked and died.
Interesting, as there isnt anything on that circuit.

I have already fixed and replaced it.

Game plays fine.

I'll have to check for a short.
The original driver board isnt smoking or heating up the same transistor at all.

Coil one is the coin coil, it's always active when the machine is switched ON, it's there for locking the coin mechanism, so it's normal.

For the rest, write to me in private in order to investigate your other point.

Wow! Thanks for the coin door tip. Makes total sense.

I haven't torn the coin door down yet.

It looks like it was recovered from deep in the ocean lol.

Reduced to $700!!! I moved the Universe from one side of the gameroom to the other, and now it developed a slight problem, where it will randomly not reset the right drops on the first try. they try and drop down. This causes the game to sometimes skip a ball or a player when this happens. Played fine for years, and now that I moved it, some switch must be gapped a little too far apart.

I don't have time to dig into it, so i'm lowering the price on the universe to $700. It still plays fine besides the random skipping of a player/ball from time to time. If i get time to look into it and fix it, then the price will go back up to $900.

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I'm running a stock clean up on conversion kits for 8 digits Zaccaria displays (only the second version), if interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-zaccaria-led-displays#post-5354814

_________________________________________
Pinball Solutions
www.pinballsolutions.eu
LED displays for Zaccaria, Bally/Stern, Williams/Data East and much more... visit our website.

My new pinballsolutions displays are GLORIOUS!

Its the best thing you can do.

OK, quoted above just to refresh you of my situation. So I DID end up measuring the voltages, and all seemed to be good. So that led me to think it was my CPU board, so I went ahead and ordered "CPU board 1B1165/evo for G2 pinball machines" from pinballsoultions

https://www.pinballsolutions.eu/product/new-zaccaria-cpu-board-1b1165evo-for-g2-pinball-machines/

I got the board, and from the instructions, I THINK that all I had to do was:
1) Set the jumpers for Devil Riders
2) Pull the 2650 microprocessor from the old board, and install into new board
3) Install board, power up, and enjoy!

Well, I did those things, powered up, and pretty much the same thing. Displays are still flashing zeroes. Awesome.......

Looking at the diagnostic LED's on the new board:
5V lit up solid green
INT lit up solid green
RES flashes red
RUN flashes green
DMA flashes green, but occasionally latches ON green for 3-5 seconds.....then goes back to flashing green
WDG is off (dark)

The documentation included with the board says I might have the "power fail signal active from the power board, check the power board"

What am I doing wrong?? Where can I start to look??
Please save my Christmas! <lol>
Thanks for your help,
FJ

Here is a page describing the power fail circuit from the power supply.
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/powersupply.html#PowerFail

I have seen one source say that in some machines, previous repair people have cut the white wire responsible for this power fail signal, and that allows the game to boot. Do you think it is worthwhile or advisable to cut the white wire, and see what happens?? Can you give me someplace to start looking, such as "diode D9 always fails" or something?? Any thoughts on what this could be? Does anybody even sell a replacement power supply board??

Thanks for any help,
FJ

Maybe test or rebuild the power supply board.

I give a quick option if you look for components to replace, replace C9 near the heat sink, most of the times he is responsible for power failure.

Power failure circuit depends on power inputs, the LM339, the 3 transistors around it and some other components.

Removing the white cable is not a good idea if you're not sure about what you do, but it clearly removes the power failure signal.

Looks like I'm in the club now. Currently nothing when I power it on but some lights. But hey, the neon works!

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Welcome!

Open the head box and check the electronic boards inside.
That's a good start

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Zaccaria - Soccer Kings (WI) Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Really nice and dialed-in, Zaccaria soccer kings. The game listed is featured on this stream: Check out Zaccaria Soccer Kings https://www.twitch.tv/videos/517633560 Playfield is ...”

2020-01-06

Wind Point, WI

brenna98

2,000 (OBO)

Archived after: 0 days

Viewed: 116 times

Status: Sold for $ 2,000

Contributed to Pinside

Got positive feedback

Letting go of my soccer kings. Lots of effort went in to make it really nice.

Really nice pin.

Just yesterday I decided to place a thick transparent plastic foil on my Shooting the rapids backglass because it started peeling.
After placing it I used some painting to cover the few holes I had in the backglass, this could be a solution for your backglass too, it's an aggressive action which have some risks but if all goes well it helps keeping all together and allows doing small repair works on it.

Yes, that's one way to do it. I like to seal backglasses with clear spray paint. I've actually found rustoleum lacquer clear works best because lays very flat with no orange peel and is crystal clear; compared to Krylon triple thick.
Once sealed, you can play with water based paints to matching colors and transparency. The beauty is, you can wipe off and try again.

As for this particular Soccer Kings backglass: It's not bad enough to warrant touchup. Besides, the hours I would spend in doing so would not equate to much in sale price.

Does anyone have a fuse list for Devil Riders? I'm not needing the Amperage values, but if they are slo-blo or regular fuses. It seems like the game I picked up last week have the right amperages, but the style of fuses seem random.

must be regular, no slow blow fuses

I could use some of the Zaccaria M3.5-0.6 machine-screw top, 40 mm sheet-metal-screw bottom (i.e., length from bottom of the stud platform to end of screw) post studs that are standard (at least for my Farfalla). I broke the top left plastic and so I am converting one of the regular screws to a post stud.

Something like this, except sized for Zaccaria (which is important because the sheet-metal screw part has already been grooved on the plastic, and it fits the standard Zaccaria flanged hex cap nuts):

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-5469

I could also use a few of the post caps.

you talking about the metal standoff screw that has a hex on the end used for plastics? With the screw in wood style bottom?

Yes, the screw goes through the post, and has a hex top with a machine screw above that, so that plastics are lain on the hex tops, and post caps are used on top to tie it down. I need the screw and post caps.

you talking about the white top hat looking slider that goes on? how many you need. I have both on hand I think. Used but have them.

Hello I am new to Pinside Forum. I am in Brisbane Queensland Australia .Please excuse my if I use the wrong terminology/ description for the parts as this is my first post. I own two Zaccaria machines, a Robot and a Magic Castle. I have a genuine original owners manual for the Robot and downloaded version for the Magic Castle. I have noted that the two main flippers on the Robot match the owners manual picture/parts diagram. But on the Magic Castle which has four flippers ,two main flippers,one right side lane flipper and a top playfield flipper, the return springs installed on machine are nothing like the manual drawing flippers. I have attached a photo of the four flippers from the Magic Castle manual showing the return spring over the shaft of the flipper plunger [ as is the case with Robot manual and whats been installed on the machine]. The next two photos are what has been installed on my Magic Castle , these are the Left and Right main flippers showing a side mounted return spring set up. The other two flippers on my Magic Castle also have side springs as well. All the coils/parts appear to be genuine Zaccaria. Why don't my Magic Castle flippers match the drawing in my manual ?? What am trying to do is improve my very week flippers on my Magic Castle. I was going to move some parts from the Robot to see what was the issue but they are totally different set ups. Do you have tips as how to improve my flippers on my Magic Castle? Are there any flipper rebuild kits available for Gen 2 zaccaria machines or other Brand parts that suit?

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This is what the same two flippers on the Robot look like. These have the spring over the plunger. As i said above these match the manual . All four flippers on the Magic Castle have the same side spring setup . Have i got a rebuild ?? or is the manual drawing wrong ?

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Those side springs look like an added modification.
Maybe an attempt to upgrade them to later williams type return springs.
This mod should make them a bit snappier. They might return faster.

Plunger type springs are weak.

I would leave them alone unless you just want to make them the same as the manual.

Clean all the contacts on all the switches and clean the plungers, they might work better.

There are no parts available, but some parts from Gottleib and Bally cross over.

The strange thing is that the current side spring flippers on the Magic Castle are terrible . Very very week , especially the right one right one ( green coil) . The Robot flippers are far superior.
Also I can’t see any additional screw holes where they would have changed the flippers over to ‘Williams style flippers ‘. They look like identical in base plate ect , almost like a factory installed set. And they have changed all four of the Magic Castle flippers to this side spring type not just the main flippers. If you look at the photos of the two right hand (green coiled ) flippers ,the Robot only has two contact arms and the Magic Castle has six contact arms.
Can anybody with a Magic Castle with the correct flippers installed send me a couple of photos so i can see what changes have been made to my machine. I’m a bit confused . They really appear to be factory installed on my Magic Castle but as said earlier they don’t make the drawings in my downloaded manual.
This site is great. Have been reading back through all the early pages to see if this issue has ever come up before .

No, Williams flippers have not been installed at all.

Looks like merely a mod.

I have a Space Shuttle that needs new flipper springs. What exact part number (i.e., as is referenced in the USA), and where could I get it? I'd prefer to get it at Marco's since I will be doing an order there soon.

I need 2 of each.

I don't actually own any real Zaccaria's but they're having a sale on the virtual tables on Steam and I bought Clown and Circus.

I have questions for gianfri:

Are you going to be doing the Gen1 power board?

Are you currently out of the Gen1 MPU (i.e., available as "backorder"), but will have them when you do another manufacturing run?

Hello, the G1 MPU board is available, I have got a big order and I have one left.

No plans for the power boards, I'm really not that motivated in running a production right now as we are currently working on new projects for Williams boards.

!!!One important detail on the Zaccaria MPUs!!!
We have discovered a compatibility problem with the very old white ceramic Signetics 2650 microprocessors.
Those ones are suspected to be a bugged or slower version of CPU which doesn't correctly work on our EVO MPUs

I hope I have answered to your questions

If anyone is interested I just acquired in a trade a Circus in pretty minty condition that I'm looking to move. Contact me for info and pics.

So shall I presume that you are working with this Signetics 2650 problem and will come up with a new rev, and then start producing this board again? I won't need it for several months.

I'm currently going through my Space Shuttle and making it sure it is ready for gianfri's Gen 1 board. So it powers up - and actually makes a squawk - and the general illumination for the playfield is fine, but nothing for the backbox general illumination. It seems that the backbox general illumination gets the feed directly from the transformer - does it come from the little transformer? I have no idea if that is working. Also, the controlled lamps are all out except for the Game Over one, which is flashing; is this what it is supposed to be?

Not really,

the problem comes from that version of the signetics 2650 which is known to be slower and with some flaws.

The boards will not be corrected nor modified as it works perfectly with the updated version of the 2650 which is also the most available one.
We just added the notice that that particolar version of 2650 in not compatible.

I hope I was clear enough

OK, so you're saying that the current one you have is working fine, but that some earlier versions were not. Are you still going to be making another batch?

As for myself, it looks as though mine is working, so it looks like I won't need it, although the displays are in bad shape, so I might be getting that.

I need a flipper coil for Space Shuttle; I'm getting the proper voltage, but the coil is dead.

The marking says D45 S-500 / 14-6000. Where in the world can I get this?

This website has it listed (but out of stock) and says that it is cross-listed with Bally AQ-24-500/34-4500. I think I have one of these on a cannibalized Bally early SS.

https://www.flipperwinkel.nl/winkel/contents/nl/d185.html

Marco has some zaccaria coils.
Pinball heaven has some coils too.

I have a battery (or something) on the MPU for Space Shuttle that is a squat cylinder coming out with the marking "NC-M 110 EMERRICH". There looks to be some minimal corrosion around, and I will clean that off. I'd like to move to an offsite battery location, so I am wondering what my options are. My Farfalla has a remote rechargeable battery, so I am wondering if I should replace this with a rechargeable one, or if I could just use regular alkalines. Also, is the net battery voltage 4.5 just like every other pin?

Battery is a rechargeable 3,6v ni-cd

You should use the same voltage, I don't think it's a good idea to use a 4,5v battery.

You can eventually use alkaline but you need to remove a diode in order to avoid that battery gets voltage from the board (alkaline cannot be charged)
I don't remember which diode because I never did it.

I prefer to use a cordless battery pack of 3,6v ni-cd which you can easily find on ebay

I put a 3 x 1.5V remote non-rechargeable cell, and it seems to be holding the memory. But I have a much bigger problem with the flipper coil!

VERY, VERY confused about the replacement coil Bally AQ-25-500/34-5050 I got from Marco's!

First off, even though these websites say they are a match with the D45 S-500/14-6000:

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

https://www.pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html

the EOS-open resistance for the Zacc is 530Ω whereas the one for the Bally is 362Ω (it's marked as this and measures this on the ohmmeter). OK, maybe this is OK ...

The coils have 3 leads with a pair of diodes going across the leads. Let's call A the side at the bottom of the arrow, C the side at the top of the arrow, and B being the point of the arrow from A and the bottom of the arrow to C.

A -> B -> C

Looking at the coils such that the leads are forward and on the bottom, there is:

Zacc: A -> B -> C

Bally: C <- B <- A

OK, no big deal, just the mirror image to keep in mind.

Now, when I do the resistance check, I get:

Zacc: AB = 530 | BC = 3.3 | AC = 530

Bally: AB = 3.3 | BC = 360 | AC = 363

Looking at the schematic for Zacc Space Shuttle, the EOS switch is in parallel between B & C, which is what is shown on the label of the Bally coil.

It would appear that 1 of 2 possibilities must be true:

[1] The Bally coil I have is correct, but it not a true substitution for the Zacc

[2] The actually Bally coils I have were manufactured incorrectly, and the proper Bally design is the same as Zacc. I've gotten an incorrectly assembled Game Plan board from Marco's made by Gulf Pinball for Marco's, so this could be a possibility.

Either way, it seems that the problem could be rectified by turning the diodes around (i.e., cutting the ones in putting in new diodes in parallel, or soldered in place).

What do you think?

I have recieved coils with the diodes reversed ftom Marco before.

I'd flip the diodes and retest.

Yes, that's what I have done, and it works fine. I had to really sand down the EOS switch - which is another issue as the one for one side is longer than the other side (any idea of what part it takes?) - and now that I think about it, the original stock coil prob probably had been working fine, as I'm getting the same good readings on both the stock coils (I replaced the pair since there were getting a different pat than stock).