This is probably at the top of my list but I live in Texas. What sort of condition is it in?

Are these something someone can mold at home possibly? My games are currently not setup so I can't look for myself and I can't really recall them from memory.

This was a lie. What he meant to say is it's his problem for me to solve.

Anyone got a picture of the coin switches? I can figure out the wiring sort of but not 100%. The column wires are easy enough I'm just not sure how to wire up the row wire.

The diodes on the coin door might be toast. My 1n4148's are at home (which I think is what is in the machine now) but I have 1n4004's on hand. Will 1n4004's work?

Thanks for replying. I was actually going to reach out to either you, david or both just to double check if play_pinball somehow got a magical unicorn. Which it seems he did.

Well I figured out why rvdv was having so much trouble with the front cabinet switches. Not only was the wiring all hacked up and causing matrix problems but the board also has switch matrix issues. Put together my zaccaria switch matrix tester board last night and hooked it up today. The front cabinet switches on still didn't work with the tester and one of the playfield switches was acting as test advance. Fairly confident the cabinet wiring is ok now. Just have to sort out the board and see if I have the parts on hand. Anyone got any tips for troubleshooting the switch matrix to figure out which component is bad?

Well I guess I don't have to troubleshoot anything yet. Pretty sure I found the problem. Now to figure out if I have this chip and what the actual part number is. Chip says 2081A while schematics say 3081.

zaccaria boom (resized).jpg

Actually just finished putting in the CA3081 replacement pcb barakandl sells (bought a 10 pack awhile back). I actually have an NTE916 I apparently bought like 20 years ago but I only have 1 and don't want to put it into a machine with questionable wiring still. Clipped the battery (shockingly no corrosion yet thank god) and put nvram in while I was at it. Was already socketed so easy.

spooky fixed cpu (resized).jpg

Not entirely. I overlooked that row 0 doesn't use U38. Got the board back home with me now. TR3 might be bad which is a BC548 but I don't have any of those on hand. I do have 2n2222's which I think will work. Should I use that or is there something else that might work? I have some other things but that was the first thing I saw as a possible alternative.

Hopefully U41 isn't also bad. Before I go swapping things this time I'll put the oscilliscope on it to see the signal is at least coming out of U41. Though I guess both TR3 and U38 are driven by U41 so it is probably fine.

I'm making this harder than I need to I think. The U38 replacement board uses 2n4401's which I have a bunch of. TR3 is just an extension of U38 since it only has 7 transistors and the board needs 8. The pinout for the 2n4401's in reversed so I just need to put it in backwards.

"Needs" is a strong word. We actually think it sounds better this way, at least for now. Haven't yet played it much (I basically left once we confirmed it was working) but neither of us have heard it switch what track it is playing. In your video I think I heard it switch tracks a couple times. The version that is in the Zaccaria pack on steam doesn't change tracks either. Just plays the same thing on repeat.

Eventually I'll get the roms dumped and compare them just to make sure there's nothing different there. Could have dumped the CPU roms but didn't think about it. Though there's probably no change there.

Now we just need a code update to your OLED display board for Zac's.

Hrm. This could explain why @play_pinball's spooky would lock on coils on power up sometimes. I wasn't even aware this was a thing

I have a new oscilloscope on the way and have the stock chip still. If I can be of assistance let me know. Might require alot of hand holding though

Yup my farfalla still has the super cap and I still have some spares around somewhere. Maybe they are still good

Would the beaglebone logic analzyer be good enough to do what needs to be done? I technically already have a beaglebone since the remakes use them. Not sure what else would be needed (i'm assuming some cape of some sort) or how much it would cost. If it were cheap enough and I could be walked through the steps of what's needed easily enough maybe I could do the leg work on the data collection portion.

https://hackaday.com/2015/02/19/turn-your-beagleboneblack-in-to-a-14-channel-100msps-logic-analyzer/

Though I don't currently have time for that so it would have to be sometime in the future. But between play_pinball and myself we have a rather large collection of gen 2 zaccaria games.

Sounds like you need to get support for zaccaria games in your bench testing display =P

In all seriousness though do you know how far off that might be? I actually ordered some LED displays today so that I could get to bench testing some boards. Not that big of a deal since I know they will wind up in a game eventually.

play_pinball also didn't have any luck using pinitech nvram in both slots. It works *most* of the time now but sometimes still has an issue. I've got someone sending me a couple prototype nvram for zaccaria games that uses 1 chip to replace both IC4 and IC5 so we'll see how that goes.

He has a "universal bench display" which is an a board with a single OLED display. On it you will see the 4 player's scores as well as the match/credit/highscore display. Currently only supports Williams System 3-7 boards.

I actually bought one of the first ones made before I realized I only had a single game it would work with. I was hoping he'd get zaccaria support at some time but thought that it wouldn't be till way later. Surprisingly it seems like that's next up. Looks like I'll be needing to ship my board back to him.

Do you know what games have special boards? I have most of the more common gen 2 games.

Well I can definitely get you anything you'd need for the sound daughter board for spooky but there probably isn't much demand there.

Yikes.. Yeah it looks like someone epoxied your pop bumpers closed. No there are no replacements. You're going to have to try to find someone who's parted one out.

I also had issues with the pinitech nvram. Even after replacing both RAM with nvram the game still occasionally had issues.

Pretty sure this is likely something on the board and not a display glass issue. So should be repairable.

When I got my farfalla all of the displays had the exact same segments out. Turns out something in its life before i got it something shorted out and took out ic3 I believe.

If somehow yours is the same I would suggest you get someone skilled at soldering to fix it. Pretty sure when I did mine I lifted quite a few pads.

If your issue is similar to HHaase's you're probably best off sending the board to someone to be repaired. David Gersic is the main Zaccaria repair person.

Picked up a new set of calipers today so took a measurement of the neon tube on my Farfalla since the backglass was already out. The calipers read 12.11mm but I didn't try to get it real tight since they were metal.

Here is a page describing the power fail circuit from the power supply.
http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/powersupply.html#PowerFail

If the 5v is low there is likely something pulling it down. I would work to first see if you can find what that is and why.

Start by unplugging everything from the power board except the wires from the transformer. Check the voltages with everything disconnected... If it's still low the problem is on the power supply board and you should probably rebuild it. If it's not still low then there is a problem with another board.

I'm sure there's other stuff I'd like but do you happen to have a gen2 transformer with the voltage selector so you don't have to retap things? I'm guessing not since you have at least 1 step down converter on your games.

If you end up selling the clown or magic castle please contact me. Those are 2 I am still looking for.

So what are people using for keying connectors on the power supply if they have to rebuild a connector? I don't think they make the long key pins that zaccaria used on the ends. My current idea is to have 2 empty pins on each side of the connector and put keypins in them. Not sure what else I could do.

Got a link to them or know the proper name? I can't find them on mouser or digikey

Thank you. I tried looking for that but there was no mention of boss. Both the datasheet and preview had the wrong picture too

According to the page there's a jumper to provide power to the displays that's been added. Have you tried using a regular board with that jumper?

The shipping prices seem quite high to me.

So I'm trying to resurrect a pinball champ. The flippers are active even when not in a game. If I'm not mistaken it should be controlled by the relay under the playfield. The wires match the flipper coil wires and tone out. The relay is never engaged. Neither when power is turned on nor when the start button is pressed. I manually engaged it thinking maybe it controlled the upper flippers but that doesn't appear to be the case. There's 40v on all 6 of the contacts on the relay which doesn't seem right.

This game has had some creative wiring done to it in a few places that I'm fixing. I'm thinking that perhaps the relay stopped engaging and someone bypassed it? I haven't found it if so. Anyone got any other ideas before I go nuts trying to trace the wiring.

A lot of the coin door wiring has been cut for unknown reasons. There was a lone short red wire soldered to the left flipper button but it was just dangling.. no idea where that would have been connector or why. CN1 on the power board had the last 2 pins completely cooked and someone had soldered wires to the back of the board and used wire nuts to connect to the transformer. First thing I fixed was CN1 and CN4 because it was cooked too. Only thing connected to CN4 in PC is the controlled lamps though.

There is no power at CN5 pin 1 ever. This is the pin that goes to SCR64 which controls turning on the flippers. So somehow the flippers are getting power even though there's no power at SCR64. So there *must* be something I'm missing that's been hacked up unless I'm completely misunderstanding how things are supposed to work.

In light of the relays being suspect I've been trying to find an alternate. David suggests using G6RN-1A DC48 but I'd like to find something that requires either no modification of board or at least less modification. I've been unable to find anything else on mouser though so perhaps there still isn't anything better

Hello Gianfri and thank you for replying. There is no power on the opposite side of the relays that go to SCR64 as far as I can tell. Checked at CN16 and the power supply side of that connection as well. I think somehow both relays bit the dust and someone has bypassed them as even without that power the flippers are on as soon as you turn the game on. I've been unable to find where power has been tapped in though yet. Going to scour the wiring in the next couple of days (probably not today) and see if i can't find it. Then I'll put in a different power supply board I have.

nevermind

I got my prototype power supply from gianfri along with a bunch of other goodies I ordered from him on friday. Put the powersupply in Pinball Champ yesterday and my flipper problem seems to be solved. So the relays on the original board are definitely dead I think. I need to fix the coindoor wiring and hopefully that's all that's left.

I really like the new power supply. Lots of diagnostic lights on it. Will save lots of time troubleshooting things

This same thing was seen on @play_pinball's Spooky. We put one of @gianfri's dual modules in and it helped a lot. Checking with play_pinball but I think there may have not been any issues at all after switching. I believe it's still in his game. He'll check later tonight when he's at home (if he remembers)