(Topic ID: 79389)

Zaccaria pinball owners club! All welcome

By SpOoKyRiDeS

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,495 posts
  • 261 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by rockwell
  • Topic is favorited by 95 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20211201_193318893 (resized).jpg
135ec52c5585e2a23d0491c8fb3d26e7df617e19 (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
34D53F8F-ADBB-4290-B81D-E61BE4E75839.jpeg
20211024_070944 (resized).jpg
245913889_918581865414739_5852051395825042657_n (resized).jpg
245972030_899443294329329_6460410288633316623_n (resized).jpg
245525218_366675928574454_6141771762566172767_n (resized).jpg
IMG_0790 (resized).jpg
IMG_0784 (resized).JPG
Screen Shot 2021-09-23 at 4.37.40 PM (resized).png
2BA492F7-089D-42FE-9B06-8EC730A2A38F (resized).jpeg
F8E7E8C3-0F9B-4527-B4AC-CC06B440B3E7 (resized).jpeg
283D0977-D5AB-4070-8DCF-0EEB879B86ED (resized).jpeg
RIGHT (resized).jpg
LEFT (resized).jpg

There are 2,495 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 50.
#1601 2 years ago

Can I get my Farfalla to speak Italian?

Pinballgoddess (its her game) asked me but I couldnt see anything in the manual.

There looks to be country settings?

Dip switches set to all off for italy.
Mine are set off on off off (england?)

Do they change the language if you change the country?

It would be way cool for an Italian game to speak Italian!

#1602 2 years ago

Just lowered the Price on this Minty Zaccaria Universe. Only $900. Works great. very clean inside and out. Every switch has been cleaned. Minty backglass, playfield and plastics. Located in SE WI.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-rare-zaccaria-universe#post-5284112

#1603 2 years ago

You need the Italian speech Roms. If I recall d. Gersic can burn them for you and a few others have the capability.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Can I get my Farfalla to speak Italian?
pinballgoddess (its her game) asked me but I couldnt see anything in the manual.
There looks to be country settings?
Dip switches set to all off for italy.
Mine are set off on off off (england?)
Do they change the language if you change the country?
It would be way cool for an Italian game to speak Italian!

#1604 2 years ago
Quoted from michiganpinball:

Parting a Locomotion . Below is a link to items on Epay. Also have PF parts not yet listed - let me know what you might need. Backglass is good but unfortunately broken on top right corner.

Added photos of playfield and deleted photos of sold items. PF parts are not on epay but other stuff is. If any interest let me know thanks.

ebay.com link: michiganpinball

#1605 2 years ago

Just when I was getting confident in my 36 year old displays...

I lost a segment:
20191101_103255 (resized).jpg

It it time to get all new led kits?

My displays are only 2 generations old now

#1606 2 years ago

What is this button for?
There are no wires connected to it.

Service?
Credits?
Decoration?

Lol

20191101_120209 (resized).jpg
#1607 2 years ago

Knocker is seized.
Plumb Bob a bit rusty.

Old bracket? Slam switch or something?

There's a wire cut off there.

20191101_120216 (resized).jpg20191101_120221 (resized).jpg
#1608 2 years ago

In the backbox I found a connector to something.

What did it go to?
It's a tiny 8 pin? There's no place for it on any PC board nearby.

But there is a hole in the metal behind it.
20191101_102145 (resized).jpg

#1609 2 years ago

I imagine thus is where my missing neon transformer goes:

20191101_102137 (resized).jpg
#1610 2 years ago

And I imagine the transformer plugs in here?

3 pin, old school euro outlet:
20191101_120407 (resized).jpg

I have adapters here somewhere lol.

#1611 2 years ago

CaptainNeo :

Do you have any spare spring keepers for the neon tube?

Or one I could copy and send back?

There's a spring guy in Utah near me that can make up a batch.

Any interest?

#1612 2 years ago

that black connector block is nothing. It was a diagnostics block plug. Doesn't do anything. button inside the coin door sometimes adds credits. I may have neon springs. I'll have to look on where I put them on the farfalla head I parted out. the wires down by the tilt in electrical tape, I believe is also standard for a coil or switch that wasn't used.

#1613 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just when I was getting confident in my 36 year old displays...
I lost a segment:
[quoted image]
It it time to get all new led kits?
My displays are only 2 generations old now

Pretty sure this is likely something on the board and not a display glass issue. So should be repairable.

#1614 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

that black connector block is nothing. It was a diagnostics block plug. Doesn't do anything. button inside the coin door sometimes adds credits. I may have neon springs. I'll have to look on where I put them on the farfalla head I parted out. the wires down by the tilt in electrical tape, I believe is also standard for a coil or switch that wasn't used.

Thanks! All of this is good to hear.

And if you can find neon springs, that would be amazing!

#1615 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

Pretty sure this is likely something on the board and not a display glass issue. So should be repairable.

How do I test for that segment?

What are the likely failure points for that segment?

All the other ones work ok.

#1616 2 years ago

it's probably the wires from the glass to the board.

#1617 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

it's probably the wires from the glass to the board.

Great. I'll check it out.

#1618 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Great. I'll check it out.

When I got my farfalla all of the displays had the exact same segments out. Turns out something in its life before i got it something shorted out and took out ic3 I believe.

If somehow yours is the same I would suggest you get someone skilled at soldering to fix it. Pretty sure when I did mine I lifted quite a few pads.

#1619 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

When I got my farfalla all of the displays had the exact same segments out. Turns out something in its life before i got it something shorted out and took out ic3 I believe.
If somehow yours is the same I would suggest you get someone skilled at soldering to fix it. Pretty sure when I did mine I lifted quite a few pads.

The missing segment is only on the display that has the ball in play count, and only on the last 2 digits on the right.

So when it days ball 2 or 3 the middle line segment doesnt light.

All of the other digits in the display are unaffected. Only the last 2 numbers on the right.

I'm inclined to believe it's a loose pin or wire or bad contact?

#1620 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The missing segment is only on the display that has the ball in play count, and only on the last 2 digits on the right.
So when it days ball 2 or 3 the middle line segment doesnt light.
All of the other digits in the display are unaffected. Only the last 2 numbers on the right.
I'm inclined to believe it's a loose pin or wire or bad contact?

I'm more convinced that you have a problem on the 2 digits element itself and not on the wiring neither on the electronics.
Those displays are multiplexed therefore, if electronics, you'll have the same defect all over the digits.
If wiring you would have the same.
It can only be the plasma 2 digits element, either a solder pad of this element or, and most problably, it's dieing after 38 years.

If you're confident enough, you can swap the 8 digits element with another working display, you'll see immediately if it's the electronics or not.

#1621 2 years ago

I agree swapping out the bad display with a working one would be a good test but remember the displays are numbered by jumpers on the display. You have to set the working display to the correct number and then install it. Never do any work on the game with power on,you will destroy the displays. I'd be inclined to take the player 4 display and change the jumper to the BIP display to try it. If it works I'd probably just move the BIP to player 4 after changing the jumper and leave it for now Until you find another working 8 digit (very hard to find) or swap them out to 7 digit (again hard to find unless you buy new led types someone was making)

Quoted from gianfri:

I'm more convinced that you have a problem on the 2 digits element itself and not on the wiring neither on the electronics.
Those displays are multiplexed therefore, if electronics, you'll have the same defect all over the digits.
If wiring you would have the same.
It can only be the plasma 2 digits element, either a solder pad of this element or, and most problably, it's dieing after 38 years.
If you're confident enough, you can swap the 8 digits element with another working display, you'll see immediately if it's the electronics or not.

#1622 2 years ago

you can swap it without moving the jumper just to see if it's the cable or not. But if it was the cable, the segment would be out on each of the digits.

#1623 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

you can swap it without moving the jumper just to see if it's the cable or not. But if it was the cable, the segment would be out on each of the digits.

Yes the actual display is socketed onto the board.

I can swap it to the player 4 one.

This is a great idea.

This board has been worked on before. IC 2 is socketed.

Thanks for all the great ideas guys!

20191102_101037 (resized).jpg
#1624 2 years ago
Quoted from gianfri:

I'm more convinced that you have a problem on the 2 digits element itself and not on the wiring neither on the electronics.
Those displays are multiplexed therefore, if electronics, you'll have the same defect all over the digits.
If wiring you would have the same.
It can only be the plasma 2 digits element, either a solder pad of this element or, and most problably, it's dieing after 38 years.
If you're confident enough, you can swap the 8 digits element with another working display, you'll see immediately if it's the electronics or not.

I agree.
The fault is only in the last 2 display elements.

Only 38 years old...lol!

I'm rapidly warming up to the idea of getting a complete led set of kits.

Durability down the road and no pinball killing 170v.

It's a win, win.

#1625 2 years ago

It looks very scary to pull the glass off of a good display and swap it.

38 year old crispy fried display boards...

What could go wrong? Lol!

#1626 2 years ago

gianfri and CaptainNeo for the win!

I swapped the display glass with the one on player 4.

Very crusty pins. Cleaned and deoxy5 on them.

Perfect result!

The bad 2 digit element problem moved to player 4.

Oddly it took 30 seconds for the bad element to show zeros.

It's like it had to warn up just to work at all.
Bad, outgained light element? Bad trace or contact?

Either way it's on the glass not the PC board.

Moving it to player 4 means one might never see the fault! Ummm, for now at least.

20191102_113534 (resized).jpg
#1627 2 years ago

Can someone email me a close up of the face on the butterfly woman?

I want to try my hand at making a decal to fix her nose on my game.

#1628 2 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I agree swapping out the bad display with a working one would be a good test but remember the displays are numbered by jumpers on the display. You have to set the working display to the correct number and then install it. Never do any work on the game with power on,you will destroy the displays. I'd be inclined to take the player 4 display and change the jumper to the BIP display to try it. If it works I'd probably just move the BIP to player 4 after changing the jumper and leave it for now Until you find another working 8 digit (very hard to find) or swap them out to 7 digit (again hard to find unless you buy new led types someone was making)

Thanks for the swapping idea!

It got me on the right path for now.

#1629 2 years ago

#51 bulbs came today!
What a difference, I barely knew that move-ramp switch was hidden in there.

It's really a game changer.

This game is so fun!
Getting better every day.

Just a bit of elbow grease and problem solving with the help of pinside!
20191102_162241 (resized).jpg

#1630 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I may have neon springs. I'll have to look on where I put them on the farfalla head I parted out

It would be awesome if I could get even one of the retention springs. I can make some up if i have a sample, even to borrow.

#1631 2 years ago
23912E2B-FAA8-4AB2-A8AD-3344D647CCF7 (resized).jpeg7FFF202A-DB1C-4B35-B9EA-24F96D3E113D (resized).jpeg
#1633 2 years ago

I love how these zaccaria butterfly girls look like beat up hockey players after 38 years!

#1634 2 years ago
Quoted from rvdv:

[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks like the neon tube is 3/8" from the photo?

Can anyone verify the diameter for my replacement neon?

I need to know before I order it.

I'm getting 2 different sizes from pinside:

3/8" or 1/2"

And they are in millimeters.

So 10mm or 12mm?

I'm thinking 10mm after looking at the photo!

#1635 2 years ago

What pinball springs could I use to make the spring retainers?

They look like big extention springs.

Not shooter rod, coil return or pop bumper ones. Those are the opposite, or compression springs.

#1636 2 years ago

Maybe you could use something different than the spring retainers. THese are also used as supports for neon tubes and these are univeral.
https://www.theneonsignguystore.com/product/neon-tube-supports/universal-tube-support/

Quoted from pinballinreno:

What pinball springs could I use to make the spring retainers?
They look like big extention springs.
Not shooter rod, coil return or pop bumper ones. Those are the opposite, or compression springs.

#1637 2 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Maybe you could use something different than the spring retainers. THese are also used as supports for neon tubes and these are univeral.
https://www.theneonsignguystore.com/product/neon-tube-supports/universal-tube-support/

I can get low profile supports.
That's not a problem lol.

Spring retainers are best for this application.

I think the springs were implemented to keep the glass from shattering when the game is moved with the head down.

I also think that the springs attributed to the wear on the backglass in most cases if the game was moved around a bit.

If I can get a sample, I can make some up.

Also i need the actual neon tube size. Color seems to be pink or yellow lol.

#1638 2 years ago

I replaced the battery as suggested with 3.6v remote pack.

Plus to plus etc...

Game was playing perfectly with no errors before changing the battery.

I removed the board from the game to do the work. Disconnected all the cables. Reinstalled the cables. They are not offset.

Now I get no CPU led and the game wont boot.

Fuses are good and ohm out.

What do I start checking?
Bad connector?
Bad ribbon?

I was afraid of this. 38 years old runs into a lot if marginal stuff if you disturb it.
20191105_151135 (resized).jpg
20191105_151847 (resized).jpg

#1639 2 years ago

Might need to give the battery some time to charge too. What voltage is it giving off?

#1640 2 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Might need to give the battery some time to charge too. What voltage is it giving off?

Battery is showing 3.6v
Is there a reset to do if you change a battery?

I imagine all stored settings are gone. But I never set any.

The CPU led is not lit.

#1641 2 years ago

Well looky here!
I pulled the board to test cpu.
GND on C9-2, 5v from my workstation to C9-4.

CPU booted after 1 sec, led stable.

So I started looking all over the board for problems.

Evidently when putting jumpers in, it's not necessary to trim off the excess.
20191105_162325 (resized).jpg

I think that the jumper wires got bent up on my worksration carpet.

I didn't even look at anything on the backside of the board, after putting in the battery.

It was all from the front. A very simple procedure.

When I plugged in the board, the untrimmed wires shorted to the backplane, and of course no boot.

This was absolutely insane to find.

#1642 2 years ago

I cut off all the stupid jumper wires and yay!

Fresh boot, I think with no settings?

All I have to do is go through each one and maybe itll save them?

Is there a preset built in?

20191105_164519 (resized).jpg
#1643 2 years ago

The system doesn't have any kind of pre-set, you basically end up with a default setting that is "whatever random state the data lines were at, at that moment". So yes, you need to go through and set each one individually.

Also, with each option, sometimes that random setting on an initial boot may not actually be the digit showing on the display. So you'll want to go through each setting, and loop it all the way around until it comes to the setting you want, to make sure that it really is what you think it is.

-Hans

#1644 2 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

The system doesn't have any kind of pre-set, you basically end up with a default setting that is "whatever random state the data lines were at, at that moment". So yes, you need to go through and set each one individually.
Also, with each option, sometimes that random setting on an initial boot may not actually be the digit showing on the display. So you'll want to go through each setting, and loop it all the way around until it comes to the setting you want, to make sure that it really is what you think it is.
-Hans

The displays are not showing correctly and missing digits.

I wonder if something is blown now after the shorted jumpers.
20191105_164519 (resized).jpg

20191105_173735 (resized).jpg20191105_173732 (resized).jpg
#1645 2 years ago

What is wrong with my game?

#1646 2 years ago

Since the missing digits are the same on all displays, I would start with checking the wiring connector for bad pins at the cpu board

#1647 2 years ago

you sure those jumpers are right for those roms? did you reseat the ribbon cable? Try disconnecting all of the other displays and flip the cable around and try it on just one display. meaning. Use one of the connectors that normally goes to a display, and plug it into the board, and use the next one in line to go to the display. That will tell you if it's a cable issue.

#1648 2 years ago

also, those jumpers are not soldered on the back at all. If the platted through on that hole is broken, it won't be following those traces on the back. I'd solder those pads on the back too, to make sure you have connection.

#1649 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

you sure those jumpers are right for those roms? did you reseat the ribbon cable? Try disconnecting all of the other displays and flip the cable around and try it on just one display. meaning. Use one of the connectors that normally goes to a display, and plug it into the board, and use the next one in line to go to the display. That will tell you if it's a cable issue.

Is there a table for the jumper settings in the manual?

I will check it.

#1650 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

also, those jumpers are not soldered on the back at all. If the platted through on that hole is broken, it won't be following those traces on the back. I'd solder those pads on the back too, to make sure you have connection.

If I can verify the jumpers are correct. I'll solder them.

I did notice that they were poorly soldered on the back.

It was odd that they would poke thru all the way to the backboard.

Is this normal?

There are 2,495 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 50.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside