If anybody is looking for NOS parts, I listed my Magic Trunk items and some other parts yesterday.
Here’s a link to what I have listed right now (MM, SS, AFM, Pinbot,TOM)

ebay.com link: sch

Link no work

My ebay username is KCToys
You can do an advanced search for a specific seller

Here’s a new link
ebay.com link: 711 53200 19255 0

gone through hundreds of my resto photos and here is one that shows all the wires except for those anti bounce back ones under the flipper area

WP_20180506_11_52_09_Pro (resized).jpg

Thanks a ton!

This might be the ebay link you want: ebay.com link: kctoys

my tiger saw mod stopped spinning. after inspection, the motor is running but the rubber on rubber contact has just worn down. can a replacement rubber hub be purchased somewhere? this came with the game, so not sure who even sells this one. there's a few of these mods out there, right? ty; happy 4th.

Is it just an o-ring on yours?

There are a few out there, a picture would help a lot.

Mine broke too, was just an o-ring I replaced. As pinballinreno said, pic would help.

I like the rubber friction rollers.

A rubber faucet washer or rubber washer would fix it on the small end.

Or just modify it to put an o-ring.

Who made that mod?

came with game.

Its on ipdb.org

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2845/Bally_1995_Theatre_of_Magic_Service_Bulletin_82.pdf

Thanks

If anyone wants to chime in on some weird insert lighting issues.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-insert-lighting-multiple-lights-on-almost-every-string#post-5731590

Hi friends
I have an issue where sometimes I get a 3 ball multiball, other times it’s 2 and today I played a 1 ball multi ball, which is not really a multiball at all, is it? I also got a vanish, then triggered multiball and it was a 3 ball...that should have been a 4 ball, right?

What’s the most likely cause of this? Could it be the micro switches, or magnetized balls?

Anyone ever experience their buttons on the coin door not working? I wanted to turn volume up but they’re not working so I tried to go into settings and again nothing.

Gauging interest for the potential sale of the TOM I’ve been working on for over a year. I found the game in a home use environment (rarely played) for the last 20 years. I do believe it may have been on location in the 90’s before being purchased by the person I bought it from, but it is in immaculate condition. Here is a brief list of the updates I have done: full brass from Chris Royalty at Hot Rod Arcade, Color DMD, Ingo upgrades opto board, aluminum opto interrupter (the original is plastic and breaks easily) Pinbits self adjusting eddy boards, full comet LEDs including an LED OCD board, flipped fidelity speakers, good mirror blades (not installed yet), an unbreakable trunk, and finally a custom lit apron built by Pinball Dreams. I found one of the last two available for purchase at the time. Shoot me a message if interested.

4129DE0A-7207-4F81-A126-655BAA81C692 (resized).jpeg

833FC2D6-188E-4BE6-BBAE-36CC24CB9FCB (resized).jpeg

EBA31AD0-10E8-4474-A972-63688F54CFFC (resized).jpeg

Damage around the legs and shooter rod assembly really is the only issue and I hate to redo the cabinet just for that. Otherwise it's in great shape. First item on the list, shooter rod plate. If anyone is interested in this or the leg protectors I am working on I'll be posting them for sale on our site soon. I'll make them in gold and silver for those who want to match existing hardware. Could do the sparkly gold shooter rod as well if people want. Has reflective gold flakes in it.
pasted_image (resized).png

Could be one of both. Magnetized balls really messed up everything for me when i got mine. If i remember correctly i also had issues with the multiball. If they stick together in the trough the balls won't get trough the post that will let them pass to the VUK.

If you got new balls on hand change them and test. Afterwards I'd go for Switch test in vanish and the trough under the playfield.

Thanks!
I have some new balls. I’ll swap them and see if that helps.

I am working on a TOM with version 1.2a. The sounds were working fine. So I installed a colordmd. Last time I installed a colordmd, I screwed up and grounded a speaker wire to the frame. Eventually fixed it. So this time, I carefully moved the wires out of the way and installed the colordmd.

went into test mode and there are only three sounds under Test 7 for sound & music. I guess I usually have 1.4H installed so never really worked with this version.

The sounds continue to work great. But just a sanity check to ensure that the test only had 3 sub-tests.

Thanks for any insights.

Made a custom anti-dust cover for my TOM and Addams. 3D printed magnets holder to fix on the pinball side rails.
Very quick to place and take off. High quality print on PVC banner.

IMG_20200625_145026 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200625_145111 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200625_145443 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200715_120147 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200715_120227 (resized).jpg

looks amazing. and I have these two next to one another in my game room too

Just listed mine if someone wants to join the club.

Machine - For Sale

Theatre of Magic Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “Reduced to sell!!!! Time to change up my collection and I am selling my very nice Theatre of Magic. Game was recently shopped with new rubbers and cleaned. All ramps were removed...”

2020-08-15

Richfield, MI

pacman11

6,999 (OBO)

Archived after: 110 days

Viewed: 1000 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

1. Those are almost always up in my opinion. The only times they are down are in multiball and during strait jacket. You can test in those modes. If they don't come down check for a stuck spring or something first.

2. I would test it without a glass first. Hit right ramp. Should lite Spirit Ring and then hit the ramp again. If the magnet doesn't fire and the switches for the ramp work my guess would be that the magnet is not working anymore. Not sure if you can fix it. When mine broke i just ordered a new one.

I just bought my ToM and got it home but my trunk sensor isn’t working. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Obviously the trunk is a major part of the game.

94370EF2-CB42-4D3F-BCF3-A9A0FBF8B840 (resized).jpeg

I would start with the switch test and adjustment of the eddy sensor. You can test the outlane sensors, as well, to confirm how they work/how to test. The adjustment procedure is in the manual, but that could be the simple fix.

A google search will provide a lot of good answers: http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/eddy-sensor-help.3611/#:~:text=To%20adjust%20an%20eddy%20sensor,%2FToM%2FRS%20eddy%20sensor.

working before you got it home? check for loose connectors?

The mechanical adjustment on the eddy sensor changes if you just look at it hard lol.

If you have them, its the first thing to throw away and upgrade.

All 3.

yeah, the pinbits auto sensors are the way to go. i still don't have them, however...

I really want a wider trunk sensor. I hate when I hit the trunk and it doesn't register. Mostly front left has a dead spot.

Yeah i hear that a lot but it seems to depend on the game. I have to tune my eddys twice a year.
As long as it stays like that i don't need an upgrade.

I've removed the pickup connectors, and soldered the wires directly to the board pins. Also replaced the single turn trimpots with 10 turn trimpots and now they stay stable.

Invest in 3 of these auto adjusting sensors. I'd also suggest looking closely at the opto interrupter on the trunk. The plastic interrupter is known to break, so you should also look into the aluminium opto interrupter. Lastly, the Ingo upgraded board is a massive improvement from the original board. The only problem is Ingo has been MIA. I've been trying to get another upgraded board for a friend with no luck.
https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-trunk-error-leons-fix-anyone-done-this/page/5#post-2798647

10 detents gives you enough adjustment? Those original pots are so touchy.

Not detents, turns. So if the pot is 10K single turn, it makes the full resistance within less than a single full turn of the adjustment. A 10-turn makes the full resistance range within 10 full turns so one full turn is about 1/10th of the ohm rating. Much more precise when trying to get the LED to just turn off without a ball over the antenna, and it holds the value accurately.

They should have used a 10 or 15 turn pot in the original production, but costs, always concerned.

I agree with this.
Its a good, solid low cost solution.

That said, newer faster responding automatic sensors are the way to go if you can afford it.

I am just in the throws of redesigning a custom speaker panel to put in my machine.
Anyone tell me why the existing clock there goes to 13??!

Thankyou!

Huh... Funny I never noticed that.
I don't think gameplay wise there is a reference to that. So no idea why they did it with 13

Thanks for everyone's help w/ the trunk sensor issue. All fixed. Now I'm dealing with a chattering left flipper that won't stay held. I'm going to have a tech come out and look at it but just need to know which parts I may have to order in advance. Thanks.

Machine gunning?
Check the coil diodes

AHH.. that makes total sense.

Was in the middle of a game recently all going well and then suddenly the game turned off. It was as if someone had unplugged, it not a reset. Game went completely off.
lt will turn on and start a game but switches row 5 and column 2 will not work. If I disconnect one connector on the opto 7 board under the playfield almost all of the switches on row five work but not the left outlane which is also a part of column 2. I have checked all the fuses, relevant connectors for good connection and replaced ULN 2803 on the CPU. Had done no work on the game prior to this to go back over and see if I messed up. I'm confused what else to try. I've gone over and overooking for disconnected or binding wires and obvious wires touching a part they shouldn't be. Please help!

Weird

I have no insights but if I were you I’d go into switch test with everything plugged in and desolder the switches one by one to see if taking one out of the circuit brings the row / col back to life. Painful but it would help you at least understand if one of the switches is the culprit.

Been giving my Theatre some love over the last few days. Need a new trunk so on the wait list for the unbreakable version.

Here is my latest mod. I've never really liked the original speaker panel with its hand drawn art. With the help of good friends I finally got around to doing it.
Added art and matched the colours better with the translite.

Did a version without the name plates as well.
The clock and plates will light / interact with the playfield. A lot of time involved but should look great.

Just waiting on my cpu to come back to power up and will post pics when installed.

I think deep down its my favourite game in my collection.

20200815_072405 (resized).jpg

I really like this.

The clock really should be illuminated. I think the proto was going to be lighted.

Are the little signs lighting up in the modes?

Im in if you get it all working!

Ummmmmm take my money?

Seriously, will you be putting these up for sale?

I can go on and on about why I think this is the best overall pin.

I certainly know it is for me.

Several people I know have owned it, then sold only to buy it again.

I don't see anything wrong with that. Proof to me I am right.

Now that arcades are closed, you will need to own one.

I also think it's just fine they are potentially remaking it.
image (resized).jpeg