Quoted from nickbuol:

So is it as simple as just disconnecting the cable bundles from the back box and lifting it out? (obviously taking into account any wire/cable management, glass out, etc)
Maybe I've been making a bigger deal out of this than it really is...

Quoted from nickbuol:

I checked the connections (again) in the backbox, no change. I removed and tested all fuses, nothing failed. I got out my voltmeter and checked continuity. Two wires were traced back to the backbox (the green/brown? and the white with green "dashes") and had continuity. I also traced the white with the green spiraling stripe, and it goes to the left outlane switch (ultimately) and it tested good for continuity.
I also checked the connection for the wires for this switch to look for burns, and there is no evidence of any. At least visually.
I also tested the switch itself using the volt meter. When the switch is open (as in a "no ball present" situation), the outside two connections tone out good, and neither tone out to the middle (with the green wire). When I press down and close the switch ("ball present" situation) then the outside lose continuity instantly, and the one end that does NOT have any regular wires connected, tones out with the middle connection. I am attaching a picture of the shooter lane switch to show what I am talking about. I tested that previously mentioned outlane switch, and it reacted the same way as this one, with the same continuity changes when its switch was "open" as well as pressed. (Note: I took this while I was testing continuity, I've sense pushed the middle connected wire all of the way on.) The image shows where I get continuity "tone" with the voltmeter and when....
Next step would be desoldering switches and swapping the outlane for the shooter to see what happens, but it just seems odd that everything else seems to work according to the volt meter, but stranger things have happened.
Anyone have any other suggestions that I can try as well in case the switch-swap doesn't change anything?

Quoted from nickbuol:

Thanks for the feedback.
I actually had the right brass wireform ramp out last night before I saw your post just now. It was pretty straight forward. the end of the ramp goes "into" the playfield, something much be holding it there, flip up the playfield, find the two bolts, undo the nuts, bam... It is out.
Everything sent off to get plated.
Anyone know how durable the plating is for high touch areas like the lockdown bar where your hands rest?
Getting a lot of pieces plated, but that is my biggest concern.... wear from use.

Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah, the plating is being done by the same place that did Mike Chestnut's work in the past, and people seemed to LOVE that, so hopefully it will hold up.
I know that Stern has been cranking out powdercoated metal on their pins for the last many years. Some looks obnoxious, but it is SUPER durable, but it is too "dull" and "blah" for trying to make it look like "gold."

Quoted from Slingshot:

I'm having an issue and hopefully someone may be able to shed some light on this. My trunk is not turning and if and when it does it is sporadic I get the trunk error but then when I go into the trunk test it will not respond to command via the button input. I have done the leon fix board and cleaned the gearbox and added a new motor. I also just replaced the U3 and U4 chip on the motor control board and I see 12v and 5v where I should there as well as 12v to the motor. Really stumped at this point. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
link to my other thread before I replaced the L6203 chip:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tom-trunk-error-leons-fix-anyone-done-this/page/12

Quoted from Robl45:

Can someone tell me the color black to use for the front on the Backbox? Also the color black for the wood next to the shooter lane. Thanks.

Quoted from Robl45:

Brasso smoothed out the wire but it still looks the same. At least it Will be smooth. I have one lock light that I keep getting to work and it keeps going out again. Any ideas what I can try?

Quoted from nickbuol:

Yeah, but isn't 1.4 known to have some (rare) multiball failure or something? I remember there being some reasons why people said not to go to 1.4... It would be nice to have the saw spin as designated by the 1.4 ROM though...

Quoted from Robl45:

So I was playing today with the kids and during my turn the game just turned off and reset. We then played another game without issues. Since getting the thing out of storage, its probably been played 50 times without incident. Should I worry about this or is it just a freak occurance? Using 1.4h home rom.

Quoted from Robl45:

Anyone else have problems hitting the right loop? I can hit left loop no problem but right hardly ever. It's usually just luck and considering midnight madness is my favorite part, it kind of sucks.

Quoted from Robl45:

How do you find where it drops when we play 3 player games and it does it maybe once in 30 to 50 games. Probably more like once in 50.

Quoted from lyonsden:

The TZ is not a reimport and neither is the NGG. The ToM is probably a reimport.

Quoted from ramegoom:

That must be a hole placed there when on route, for the lock shackle they frequently install. I have three previously routed machines, all with suspicious filled holes where the hasp would have been.

Quoted from Paddypaws:

Thank you for that, I'll check switch 47, I've noticed on page 2-43 an opto, switch no. 36 in the trunk, does this just do the trunk back door (falling down the basement feature) ?

Quoted from Robl45:

mine just tries to save and fails. the magnets activate but the ball gets through.

Quoted from GreenMachine19:

Anyone know where to buy nice laminated price/instruction cards?

Quoted from canea:

I think this is a known issue that's never really been resolved - maybe others can chime in more definitively. The left and the right magnets draw their power from two separate sources so one is less powerful (?) than the other. Generally the right is stronger than the left. The left sometimes won't slow the ball to a stop and results in a drain even when it shouldn't. My left magnet never slows the ball completely to a stop so it can outlane if you're not careful; right lane comes to a full stop, never drains. Just another Theatre quirk?

Quoted from ramegoom:

The piece you're looking for is out of stock:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-TOM7
You will also need some plastic snap-in standoffs, 1/4 in. Not sure where you go for those.

Quoted from Robl45:

I agree for 1000 it would bother me. Otherwise not so much.

Quoted from MajorHavoc:

Wondering if anybody else has experienced this trunk malfunction?
When I power up the machine, the trunk spins so the solid side of the trunk is facing the flippers. Then, when the start button is pushed, it spins again and stops with the trunk opening facing the flippers. It remains here throughout game play and never shows the magnet side.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Theatre of Magic

Quoted from MajorHavoc:

Thank you, meSz!! Did you replace the playfield lights?
pinballinreno THANK YOU! Adjusting the eddy did the trick!!

Quoted from MajorHavoc:

Thanks again nickbuol drewblood419 robl45 jsa mesz I ordered the Ultimate kit from Pinball Bulbs at 10% off!
Next, looking at ledOCD.com, I see two items, LED OCD and GI OCD. Whats the difference and which do I need? ...or both? Are they simply for different areas of LED's?
Is ledocd.com the only source for these?

Quoted from rogerdodger:

Hi guys:
Are any of you having a problem with the 3amp fuse blowing, if you get the left or right Hocus Pocus ball save magnet energized more than 2 or 3 times in quick succession?
Thanks.
Roger

Quoted from ericthehalfb:

what is the best mod for TOM?

Quoted from MajorHavoc:

None of my flashers seem to be working. Any ideas? FYI, no errors and all new LED's. Regular lamps don't work either.
Thanks!

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Whilst on the subject of the trapdoor - when it ejects the ball where should it go? And how does one adjust it? Quite often it goes sdtm on mine.

Quoted from Frogman:

I ran the test. When the solenoid test says something like trap door "up" the door opens and closes immediately. Is that the expected behavior during the test or should it stay up?

Quoted from FatPanda:

Any thoughts on how to fix a squeaky trap door? Its the flap and the springs that squeak.

Quoted from nickbuol:

Same thing happened to me when I added a Pinduino (on top of the ColorDMD, motorized saw, etc) and it was more than the TOM could take.
It is due to a limited 5v source for all of the "goodies" that we all add.
Could be that something is going bad, but more than likely it is just too much of a draw on the 5v source than the machine can handle and then it resets.
Easiest solution is to buy a small plug-and-play board specifically made for this problem $29 fixed my problem...
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

Quoted from jsa:

Just echoing nickbuol above here. That thread is the right place and others have asked this question.
I used to think I had the courage to do playfield restoration, but I'm not there. At some point I'll do a teardown and restoration of my ToM, and when I do, I'll probably send my playfield to HSA. Meanwhile, it's just too much fun to take it apart for months.

Quoted from jsa:

I'm now experiencing the trap door/SDTM issue for the second time since I've owned my machine. Things I've already tried:
- Tightening popper guide on armiture
- Replacing armitures and coil sleeves
- Replacing springs
- Adjusting coil stop depth
The popper coil has some slop (meaning, the coil can rotate in the bracket). I know vid1900 has said in the past for other rebuilding techniques that the coils should be tight in the bracket...Could that be it?
Obviously, the trap door mechanism has a "backboard" like a basketball net, and the angle of that metal backboard effects the direction of the pinball. There is a tiny amount of play in that direction, but honestly only the mount allowed by the slot guide in the bracket for the trap door armiture, which seems like it's moving as designed.
This worked for about six months before starting to fail again. Anyone have any thoughts?
-Jay

Quoted from Damien:

Yes, I've been referring to the manual. Sure, I didn't have to ask about the hocus pocus bit, but I don't think the manual can answer if a burnt magnet was causing fuse outages (as another member was saying) or when the motorized saw should turn.
I'm also very new to this hobby. I definitely appreciate all the people that take the time to help out, and there's definitely a bunch of you

Quoted from Videogod:

A lot of of us have had this problem, and this is the best fix (in my opinion). Glue a very small piece of foam as shown. The ball will rest on the foam instead of the post. Then when the trunk rotates, the ball will just glide off of the foam to freedom!

Quoted from FatPanda:

Mine has a star post installed. Ball bounces out and never gets stuck.

Quoted from Damien:

Has anyone encounter this...
After locking 2 balls, when I shoot at the trunk magnet, it just bounces off and registers as a hit. The trunk rotates and returns to the magnet side, but won't grab the ball.
And the balls that end up going in get stuck in the subway behind the little metal post. The post won't clear the balls to the VUK under the basement door.

Quoted from yzfguy:

So..... pinballnreno, can you explain how to change the magnet hold time in settings as you described? I am unable to find any such adjustment.

Quoted from yzfguy:

Aaah. Ok thanks. I wasn't aware of the. Hocus pocus setting. So it just uses the feature less often.

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

I am getting a lot of PM's about the tiger. We are making now and will have for sale next week. It will be $99.99, replaces your current tiger, no changes to the game. It can be hooked up to GI or playfield lights (NOT 12V). Comes with everything needed to mount and hook up. We use Comets Matrix system for hook up. The Tiger real helps to light up the game.
This is the prototype and is nearly perfect, making a slight change to the paint, removing paint from back of paw.
Here are a couple more pictures.
Dan

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

pinballinreno I have you on our list.
Lighting was a challenge on this mod. The first one we poured we put some lights at the body end, and the light just would not penetrate, it is 9 inches long. We also wanted to have these colored close to the original, so it looks good even with the lights are off. The orange color further cuts down the light transmission. We then tried some middle placement, but the light would not transmit. We tried top placement, but then light would not transmit to the paw. When it is all said and done, we poured 8 with different light placement, and this is what we felt worked the best. The LED light strip in this is 21 lights.
With the angle of the lights and the orange, we feel it does not overpower that area. We feel the amount of light it makes matches the game very well and really accents the orange pop bumper caps well. I did mentioned that we use Comet matrix plugs, and if you want more control over the lights, you can use Comet's light dimer for $1.95
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm
We are getting a lot of emails on this, so I started a list. If you are interested, PM me, and I will put it on my list. We can only make 6 of these a week, and I will email when we have one ready. The reason we can only make 6 of these a week, is because the mold is large and expensive, and it takes 24 hours to cure completely in the mold.
These are hand made, so the light placement does very slightly, less then a 1/4" I would guess, and they are hand painted.
Dan

Quoted from Damien:

Did I just finish the wizard mode??? I believe I completed the 8 illusions, and then nothing really happened.
Without spoiling it for me (I know, it's supposed to be underwhelming but I still want to see it for myself) but does anything actually happen that would let you know you're in the wizard mode?
Thanks

Quoted from Damien:

Alright then, I don't think I did it after all haha!
I did complete the 8 Illusions, but I also needs the stages and midnight madness?

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

We got hit pretty hard by Irma and lost over a week, just getting things back on track.
I am going to start a thread on our TOM mods when we get some stock up and caught up, please reply on that thread. If I get a fair amount of feedback of a change, we can make changes.
The original plastic has more white on it then the translit does. We opted not to put white on the tiger, because no white matches the translit pretty close. With the lights in the tiger it gives you the choice of lights on, lights off or you could dim it.
Please give me some clarification. Please look at picture above of the tiger not lit. Is that what you want, but with white under the tiger? Or are you saying you want an opaque orange? Red eyes? Do you want more white like the plastic it is replacing?
Trying to make one model that meets most peoples needs.
Dan

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Solid orange, white under head with a little white on face, red glowing eyes.

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Here are some pictures of the opaque tiger. Is this the colors and paint you are looking for? It has white under the face and a few other areas. It has red lights for the eyes, but they did not line up in this prototype, it is giving us some problems. These lights will require more work, may be a few ($10) dollars more.
That is also the second version of the theater mask.
Once we get this tiger right, I will post here and start a separate thread.
Dan

Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

This is my game. This mod is incredible! Maybe Andre (great guy) will made more. I'll ask

Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:

All hand painted. I talked to him this morning. Pretty confident he will do more. Just be patient!

Quoted from Damien:

So, I replaced my Hocus Pocus magnets, and also replaced the sensors with Pinbits.
The right sides is working perfectly, but the left side isn't activating at all. I can feel the right side vibrate, and when testing, it catches the ball. The left side does not vibrate, and as expected, does not grab the ball.
Any suggestions on what this may be?
This machine has a lot of Gremlins, but I'm down to just this and a Left EOS issue.

Quoted from weaverj:

is the spirit ring magnet supposed to be secured somehow? mine just sits on the ramp ledge. since my cover is raised a hair by washers, it rests at an angle, too. i tried taking the washers out, but it created a ball stop. maybe i'll post a pic tonight.

Quoted from Binger:

I was looking for help under another thread but maybe this is the place to be. I just put my ToM back together. My issue is with the trapdoor for the haunted basement. I does work. It passes the test mode and will open, hold and pop a ball out for multiball or end of the game. However......After hitting the center targets and the center ramp...and lighting the theatre basement....It will not open the trapdoor. My boards are fresh back from coin op cauldron and the manual only discusses wiring. I am stuck because as I said.....The darn thing does work properly at other times. Has anyone else had this issue or have any ideas? I have checked my switches and everything seems ok..etc. I'm stumped. Thanks

Quoted from Binger:

Well..... after a lil tinkering.... okay alot of tinkering I solved 2 issues tonight. The basement door now works as it should. Thanks to Fatpanda and PinballinReno for the suggestions and help. It ended up being that center ramp switch. Since its buried under the other ramp I could only activate it with a screwdriver..... leading me to believe it was working correctly. However.... as suggested... the ball was skimming right over it and not registering. Presto!

Quoted from weaverj:

how can you tell the difference?

Quoted from weaverj:

exactly. would marco actually say "cherry" in the item description?

Quoted from embryon:

Thank you very much. I have seen the post spacer in place of the one you have pictures and the t nut as is. What is screwed into the t nut and can it protrude through it, I'm guessing not?

Quoted from jsa:

I personally feel a post above the t-nut is a bad idea. FWIW, Jpop also confirmed this a long time ago. Still, you can’t argue about 20 years. Just know if a ball gets caught between the trunk and that post, which I’ve seen happen, the torque can damage a playfield, which I’ve also seen happen.

Quoted from Tjohejsan:

I have a problem with my trunk
I have a new pindora box trunk board.
But sometimes the trunk stops working, and it shows " trunk error".
I start the trunk test, and it shows error.
Then i test the trunk pressing (+) (-) in test mode.
Then it works fine again.
But then stops working when playing again.
I bought a new pindorabox board. Thinking that was the problem?
And as seen in the pictures. This is how the optos are lining up when the two locks on the trunk is showing.
I think its wrong?
The spring/gap on the interuptor is facing left where the screw is.

Quoted from embryon:

so what you're saying is leave the exposed/upside down t-nut as is so the ball can run over it unhindered. So if a ball goes on the right hand side of the trunk it can roll back down and exit the area. This area of my game did get severe damage there and will be getting this repaired shortly. Do you suggest filling in the t-nut area and simply have no hole and just solid artwork there and only have the post spacer near the ramp present???

Quoted from Davefinn:

I wish it was broken, mine is missing...

Quoted from Davefinn:

Thought about etching one from scratch using pc board material but right now I'm considering using individual insert sockets. Then creating a custom harness that mates to the factory connector for that lamp board.
Hoping to eventually find an original one...

Quoted from wizard91:

Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone can help with a question I have about theatre of magic.
I've had my table for some time now but I've noticed the last few months it is almost impossible to make the metamorphosis ramp shot. I know this is a difficult shot at the best of times but I seem to remember hitting this at least a few times when I first got the table but now I can't remember the last time I made the full ramp even with what I feel is a decent clean shot. At best I get the ball half way up and it drops out of the mid way hole by the trunk.
I'm pretty sure the left flipper coil is correct as per the manual but wondering if a flipper rebuild is required or if there is anything else I can do / check to try and make this shot slightly easier it just seems an impossible shot at present on my table which is a shame for such a cool feature. I did replace the flippers and flipper rubbers a while back but as far as I know they are positioned correctly etc.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Quoted from meSz:

Anyone ever encounter their Subway Release Coil stop working? Mine did after moving the machine. It's not working in TEST mode either so figured maybe wire came off but to no avail!

Quoted from meSz:

Thanks for the replies. It was the F901 Fuse on the Fliptronics board (for anyone else that comes across this issue)

Quoted from javagrind888:

My machine only registers 309 plays. I know I bought a really nice condition machine, but is there a way someone could have reset the counter at some point? I just find it hard to believe that a 20 year old game has only been played so little (and I've put in at least 60-70 plays on it myself.)

Quoted from javagrind888:

The newer pinball machines made have more permanent counts right?

Quoted from Tjohejsan:

I have problem with my trunk it sometimes stops working.
After trunk test mode it works again for a short while.
I bought this new trunk board, but still same problem:
Art.nr: FP-A-19749
Brand new design Theatre of Magic Trunk Opto Board. Based on Leon's Trunk Fix. Will automatically adjust! Direct replacement board for the original Theatre of Magic Trunk Opto Board.
Would the new board (look post before me) work?

Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone know how to improve/strengthen the outlane magnets? My right lane stops the ball well and drops is straight into the inlane, but the left one wiggles around so much that it still goes in the outlane %50 of the time

Quoted from Djshakes:

Hey, I don't know if anyone did this but this is my ball stuck mod.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Djshakes:

Mine came with a post in that t nut but I removed it. I thought having one there was a big no no?

Quoted from Damien:

Hey everyone,
I have a bit of a mystery with my machine, and I'm hoping that I might get some ideas going here that might open my eyes to the root of this.
The F903 fuse keeps blowing on the fliptronic board, and at that time, the left magnet stops working as it should, and the left sling and left flipper can actually trigger the magnet intermittently (for example, something hitting the left flipper 3 times will trigger it, sometimes 4 times. It's seems random).
I installed the new Pinbits Eddy sensors, but I recall the issue occurring even with the stock sensors.
Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
Transistor? Ground issue?
Also, can anyone explain why the manual refers to "lower" and "upper" flippers?
Thanks

Quoted from allsportdvd:

Thanks mate
Didn’t realise TOM was made in 1983! All jokes aside I’ve been reseating the lamp board connector that houses all the Magic & Theatre letters and the problems seem to have subsided.

Quoted from soren:

Theatre Of Magic revisited. A new mod created from scratch, featuring new stuff…
A basement award scheme for competition play.
Compensation outlane saver for when the magnets fail to divert the ball to inlane.
And a harder Spell theatre rule, requiring additional shots than just the left orbit.
Oh, and the Trunk now do not go into error state under normal conditions of play.
Plus the combo and bonus-x features of the previous mod are now tweakable in feature adjustements.
Special thanks to Lars, Jim Belsito and Steve Bowden.
Further info and download link...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-theatre-of-magic-software-mod-version-2

Quoted from ababapanos:

thank you again.
I found the opto switches in the trunk ,but I did the test and they also function normally.
really very strange what happens...
Also, something that does not work properly is when it turns the trunk to the target selection that has the magnet. The game asks you to shoot at the trunk, but when the ball strikes the magnet does not turn on. but I tested it in the tests and the magnet of trunk it works correctly even though the game is not activated.
what conclusion do you get out of all of this? does the problem is ROM?

Quoted from ababapanos:

one more thing, today the ΤΟΜ does not open, I looked at the backyard and I saw a fuse burned from the board fliptronic II controller (F903)
This is the reason does not open; I still wanted to ask what type FUSE to put? in the manual he writes 3A SB, but in the burning fuse writes 10A
what is right to do?
thanks again!

Quoted from ababapanos:

I replace the fuse with new ceramic fuse 3A , but the machine not open.
the other I see them ok. what to do?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Larrymc:

I’ve recently started having an occasional ball bounce off the right wire ramp when plunging a ball into play, and getting stuck between the wire ramp and the cabinet. Everything in this area is tight, and I’ve never removed/moved anything there either. I’ve launched the ball countless times at different speeds, and I can’t see a pattern to why a couple of percent of shots do this. I’m thinking that maybe the deflector on the top of the shooter ramp has worn, allowing the ball to shoot up the ramp too much instead of being deflected straight down onto it. Before I try anything, I thought I’d ask if anybody else has experienced this. Thanks.

Quoted from cosmokramer:

Before I try to heat up and pry this spirit ring magnet off can someone confirm that it just held on with adhesive?
[quoted image]

Quoted from cosmokramer:

I suck....
[quoted image]

Quoted from ababapanos:

hi
Disconnected the trunk magnet and now plays good , not blows fuse...
Now what do I do? the problem is the magnet; to buy new magnet ? or on the board;

Quoted from nickbuol:

UPDATE: FIXED
Has anyone here had to replace an a-14406 coil for #16 on the solenoid/flasher table and listed as "right up/down gate"? (This is what open the gate at the top of the playfield to let the ball up the long wire ramp on the right side of the playfield.)
Mine fails the tests even though voltage is going to it like it should, so I bought a replacement. I *think* that I need to remove the bolt in the center of the mounting bracket, but it doesn't want to budge. Any tips or tricks, or just keep cranking on it?
EDIT: I've attached a diagram of the bracket/coil. Maybe they made massively effective lock washers back in the mid-90s...
UPDATE: I used my cell phone camera to see if there was something that wasn't visible (this thing has an opening that is facing away from you if you are trying to service it, and when I played back the video, I saw a small red blob on the bottom side of the washer. Sure enough, it looks like someone put a tiny drop of red loctite on there. WOW. I've owned my TOM since 1998, so either it was original (doubtful) or in the previous couple years, someone put some on there. So I grabbed my impact driver and carefully let it "hammer" loose the bolt. It worked. Cleaned off the loctite residue, and hand tightened the replacement back into place.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm looking for the left ramp protector metal piece that sits at the far end of the plastic ramp, right where it drops the pinball back on the playfield near the flippers. I saw someone talk about making their own of these on page 16, but that was like 3 years ago so...
I think its nr 01-13892.1
Been looking in all the normal pinball stores (plus lots of googling, ebay and such) and simply can't find it anywhere. Anyone got a spare lying around or know where to find one?
Thanks
[quoted image]

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

So I was rebuilding the pop-bumpers today, cleaning, fitting new skirts and so on (I hate fixing those bumpers) and noticed that one of the coils wrapping paper looked brittle, wrinkled, the white paper is brownish and the coil text was REALLY faded as I could hardly read it. I thought it must have been crispy hot and was thinking of ordering a new coil but I decided to have a closer look at it first as the bumper 100% did work before I started cleaning it.
The coil is using black , thinner, plastic (not white-ish as the "newer" coils normally use) and it still had a brass sleeve inside. Surprisingly enough the brass sleeve slid out without any problems and it was really clean inside
It does look like the coil is an original from when the machine was built, ie ~27 years old, but it does work. The outside looks like crap though, and now I'm on the fence on what to do; keep it and risk future failure due to age or just replace it? What would you do?

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

All optos/switches works, tested them manually without the interruptor in place. The card is a brand new PindoraBox board and shouldn't have any problems to it.
I noticed that the shaft the trunk sits on have 1-2mm "flex" to the sides before actually turning, probably the gears in the gearbox are worn (didn't see it when I cleaned the gearbox though). If I move the trunk a tiny amount to the sides the switches would detect this and show correct opto states on the DMD while in the trunk test.
My solution was to use a tiny metal file to widen the gap in the interruptor with another 1-2mm, this make the optos to register properly even with the tiny flex present. The trunk now turn to all sides and the switches show correct states as they should.
A new gearbox would probably fixed this thought, but to find a good one is probably hard by now and also rather costly, while this "fix" was super cheap

Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I’m having a weird problem with my trunk. Every time I turn the game on I have a trunk issue andnhave to go to trunk test. Sometimes it won’t rotaye other times it’s completely fine. Usually the first few games it also will not start multiball. I have the Leon board and the metal interrupter in it. Not really sure where to even start on this one. Anyone ever have issues like this?

Quoted from Its_me_aj:

It’s weord because sometimes it will work perfectly fine, other times it won’t work at all.

Quoted from JerryM:

Joined the TOM club.
Happy to own this machine!
Did a topside tear down. Replaced all coil sleeves. Rebuilt flippers and pops. Dealing with some small issues now. For some reason balls are ejected into shooter lane without even pressing the start button??
[quoted image]

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Has anyone here painted their cabinet trim and/or habit trails/wireforms? I'm not sure I want to invest the money in to PC or plating, at least not for the cabinet hardware (might do the plating on the wireforms). I might just leave them silver, easiest... but I have some paint coming in that I was considering using to paint the lockdown, side rails & legs. I'd clear it with 2X Spraymax so with the right prep I would think it'd adhere pretty good.

Quoted from cosmokramer:

Working on my restoration and populating the new (Mirco) playfield with T-nuts. I am concerned with the T-nut on top of the playfield next to the trunk. The original playfield has a deep recession from where the T-nut was drawn into it, allowing it to sit fairly flush with the playfield...
Seems like it would be fairly easy to do on a non clearcoated original playfield but my concern is trying to get the new nut to sit flush without destroying the clear around it. I have the Kruzman kit to remove clear from post holes and such but not sure how to remove the clear from this area and have it look good as well....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Even with an automotive clear on it? I mean, if that kind of clear holds up on the playfield, why not on cabinet parts?
There is an online pinball plater who has the TOM wireforms all done, $175. I'd probably do that if I end up painting the cabinet parts. I am worried PC won't hold up on the habit trails, my RR WOZ has wear on the PC wireforms.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah, I meant more on the cabinet. For the wireforms I am pretty sure I am going to get the plated ones. The only place I can see really being an issue is the lockbar where you hit it with jeans, rings or whatever and around the siderails/buttons. But I would think with an auto clear, a few coats, should be more than sufficient to protect for home use. Paints should arrive any day, just need to do some prep work and I am going to paint the lockbar underside with a few of the colors to see what looks best. Then I'll do the lockbar, legs, hinges, siderails and shooter housing in paint and clear. I'll redo the door in the speckled black gloss. I have to do the door anyhow because the coin mechs are all lira, reimport. Feeling pretty confident about this now that I just finished the auto clear on a playfield and it's tough. I did a motorcycle tank too, the only thing that would prevent gas from eating it up. Got some nice new ramps sitting here, got a vibrating tumbler for the metal work (doing my JP now, looks awesome) and just have to apply decals to the playfield. I am sort of considering clearing it now after the decals instead of the protector. I'm about 2/3 of the way there (just a bit more to remove from the playfield, as long as I can unplug all of the harnesses easy, JP was not easily possible, I can take it outside and spray it as is without removing any of the under playfield structures. Dang.. I might just do that now. I am afraid I'll be unhappy with the newton rings that the protectors seem to have. I think the clear would help to level out the decal edges too.
*Edit - I think this might be the color, ordering now. amazon.com link »
Clear & Primer Package ebay.com link
Also got a semi-matte to see how that looks, never used it before ebay.com link and I think it might look good, sort of like Houdini
Also gonna clear the coin door with the Spray Max, it will be bulletproof.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I sort of find that hard to believe still. Almost, if not all, of the "bargain" restores or painting I've seen use regular 1-part spray paint as clear. I know for sure that won't hold up. But the auto 2-part clear that is used on a playfield seems like it surely would stand up way better. Along with a 2-part epoxy etching primer I would think it would be pretty good results. I mean, this is what I painted my motorcycle gas tank with and it gets zippers and such rubbed up against it, not a scratch on it. Worst case, I take it to get PC if it doesn't work out. I've also read the SprayMax website and they specifically say their primers work over coated materials (like zinc and galvanized) so it makes me even more apt to try it.
Let's also mention I just bought a RR WOZ and the wireforms that were powdercoated ruby red have worn sections down to metal where the ball hits (coming out of the castle playfield, etc). So PC surely isn't the end all, be all for wireforms at least. But that worries me for the other items, I mean there are chips in the siderails and such where the PC has been nicked. I don't see a ton of difference there between that and my JP which had spray painted (no clear) siderails for just some shit touchups I did.
Chris, pinball plating or whatever, does not have the TOM wireforms in stock (I thought he did) so he said 1-2 months. That's ridiculous, so I am contacting another plating place that was recommended. I think for the wireforms it makes sense to get brass plated and clear coated. I'll do the 2x Spraymax on those too if the plater doesn't do it.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Anyone done the rad cals? I am wondering if they will look out of place given the original finish of the vinyl decals. I have the side rails off now anyhow so I could just do the vinyl, it's cheaper. I wonder what the minimal prep is that has to be done, does it have to go back to bare wood?

Quoted from Fairground:

Hello everyone, may I please join your wonderful club? I have added TOM to my little collection. Cheers Allison

Quoted from whitey:

I’m finally getting to my TOM, ordering color dmd ? Anyone put in the LED ? Or only LCD. My CV has the LED and the colors are incredible! Any advice
Thanks!

Quoted from whitey:

I like the LCD ! Thanks it’s ordered

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

My pin is missing the left ramp exit guard and as it is impossible to find (in stores) I decided to make my own.
I hoped that I should be able to re-purpose a ramp guard that was close to what I needed from some other pin and after looking around a bit I saw the "01-15200.1-2 STAR WARS E1 (Williams_ Bracket-large ramp end)". Get it here https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15200.1-2
Note: There are two SW protectors, make sure to get the one with the correct curve!
I took a chance and ordered it.
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The protectors curve fit nicely, but the arm is obviously too long.
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Marked where to cut it off.
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After cutting. It's not super round but it's decent enough.
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Measured hole position and used a metal drill (that metal was pretty hard to drill).
Screwed to pin and whoaaah, fits like a glove!
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Looks great imo.
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All in all, the metal works took about 30-40 minutes in total, not bad for making an unobtainable part.