Has happened to me and same X files type experience, no idea how it happened
congrats on the addition. I love mine and is a keeper. Hope you enjoy it for years to come
Not absolutely sure but your opto may be set too sensitive. I have had this problem a lot and now may have it occur quite infrequently but still will happen. Try desensitizing the opto. I know when I had it real responsive I'd get phantom hits etc etc. This may help, good luck.
Oh I am assuming you know how to adjust this, if not let us know.
Sorry mate I meant the eddy being too sensitive. I had trunk problems, double hits being recorded, phantom multi balls etc because the eddy was picking up hits too easily. Hope this helps
The backglass does look very nice. Any chance of a full photo and maybe with it removed and on so we can see what colours were used? Thanks
Try this guys. I played just doing loops for theatre and multiballs, did not try for illusions and stayed away from the trunk as much as possible. Got a couple 100M and a few theatres and multiball jackpots. 3 balls plus an extra ball and got 2.3B score. Risk free, easy going. I only started 3 illusions, 1 via skill shot and did not attempt to complete them. Boring way to play ToM but if you're into scores this is a safe way of doing it.
My highscore on 3 balls is 4.5B approx btw
Anyone know the part number of the original metal post that sat on the front right corner of the trunk. It 's the one that's basically a rod with a groove for the rubber not the ones with a point. thank you very much
Quoted from jsa:
Well... It depends on the specific space you're talking about.
Many machines that had never had implemented Service Bulletin # 82 (http://www.ipdb.org/files/2845/Bally_1995_Theatre_of_Magic_Service_Bulletin_82.pdf) added a post spacer with a rod and groove where the t-nut is, but that turns out to be a mistake, causing playfield damage. Don't do that. If the ball is sticking back there make sure you have #82 done. Otherwise, let it stick, and the ball will release itself when the trunk turns.
The one just to the right of that t-nut, next to the ramp, COULD be replaced with a post spacer (rod and groove), but the ones I've seen have a point, like this:
Here's the one pictured:
Here's a post spacer you speak of:
Anyway, best of luck with that.
Thank you very much. I have seen the post spacer in place of the one you have pictures and the t nut as is. What is screwed into the t nut and can it protrude through it, I'm guessing not?
Quoted from pinballinreno:
I added the post on the t nut due to continually having ball hangs there.
So far in 20 years it hasn't been a problem or broken anything.
excellent, At the moment I had two of the pointed posts there and no t-nut on top, so I'll proceed once my playfield is touched up and clear coated, to install the post spacer and the pointed post. thanks for your advise.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Since the hollow post goes over a longer machine screw thru the t-nut, theres not much damage that can occur since the post rests on the t-nut, not on the playfield itself.
In an extreme and rare condition the screw might get bent but thats about it, Or maybe jam the trunk, but the trunk motor isnt that strong and will stop if jammed due to overvolt condition protection I guess?
I tried to force a ball into the area years ago with the trunk moving but on my game I cant get it to jam in there.
I have seen the same fix as mine on location games with thousands of plays and it seems ok.
But I agree with you that anything can happen in pinball and impossible things seem to happen every day.
Hey guys have this problem where fuse 105 (i think) blows when the ramp magnet diverter activates and I use my flippers a lot, usually during multiball. I had a rottendog driver pcb installed. I swapit for my original driver pcb that i had repaired ages ago. The problem seemed resolved. However before trying to repair the rottendog, i checked the fuse ratings. The manual says 3A slow blow. Rottendog had 3A but my original bally pcb has a 5A slow blow. I figure that's why its hanging in there and maybe the rottendog is not faulty. Any ideas where to troubleshoot? Magnet tested 4.5ohms. Btw my game is in pieces waiting on the playfield resto to be completed in a week or two. I have the harness to test though. Any advise would be appreciated and step by step instructions
Quoted from tbaum:
I'm considering buying a #ToM that is being neglected at a local bar. The trunk works but it is banged up (bent magnet on front), the playfield looks like it isn't too worn, but it is really dirty (need to look closer). Lights are out in places, need total shop job and rubbers replaced.
I can post some pictures when I see it next. But I had a few questions.
What's a reasonable price for routed and in serious need of care ToM?
How hard will it be to get the replacement pieces (trunk magnet/plate) etc?
Metal pieces shouldn't be too hard to find, I have all of them for my trunk as spares. Why I don't know????
Would be appreciated if you could video the tiger saw in motion as I've never seen that decal before. Looks like it would be real neat in action
mr pinball I think used to sell the insert decals. I'm not sure but I had a set but again I'm in Australia unfortunately
Quoted from Damien:
Having an issue where the let magnet keeps blowing the fuse.
Should this be a 3A SB?
I believe so. Test magnet ohms. I had a similar problem but unsure of my solution. I changed out my driver pcb. So it could be a transistor issue etc. I also noticed my trunk mech up/down had worn a notch in it that could have put excessive load on the coil. I fixed this as well
I have one that was in my tom and is now sitting in a cupboard not working. My original had been hacked that's why i replaced it but it's back in again working fine. My opinion is not positive for rottendog
The fuse connected to the spirit ring magnet check blowing mainly during multiball. When it did the trough etc was also dead.
Quoted from Damien:
I have a bit of a mystery with my machine, and I'm hoping that I might get some ideas going here that might open my eyes to the root of this.
The F903 fuse keeps blowing on the fliptronic board, and at that time, the left magnet stops working as it should, and the left sling and left flipper can actually trigger the magnet intermittently (for example, something hitting the left flipper 3 times will trigger it, sometimes 4 times. It's seems random).
I installed the new Pinbits Eddy sensors, but I recall the issue occurring even with the stock sensors.
Anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
Transistor? Ground issue?
Also, can anyone explain why the manual refers to "lower" and "upper" flippers?
Having similar issues i think. When the fuse blows, the trunk magnet, is dead which is my indicator. Seems to happen during multiball so hard to track what kills my game
Was reading somewhere here recently of a upper flipper fuse blowing. I had the same thing happen to me and believe I found the issue. On my game the trunk and left magna save eddys were out of adjustment. On power on they were off, but once triggered they remained on or were definitely flakey. I think the trunk Eddy would sometimes remain on when the magnet was activated and hence drew too much power. I adjusted both seeing they both were flakey and not had an issuein many games. They may need a little more sensitivity but I'm still in the testing phase to make sure no fuses blow. I think f903 was going on me
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Check the trunk eddy with a ball.
Start reseating all of the connectors on all the boards in the backbox.
Press all the wires into all of the IDC connectors with a credit card.
Be on the lookout for any loose, burnt or corroded connections or pins.
There are quite a few, take your time.
Is the eddy pcb light on all the time?
Quoted from ababapanos:
I'll look at it again, but it seems to be light on all the time...
That means the switch is stuck on. You need to adjust it so it goes off and only on when the ball makes the circuit or goes over the eddy. Try that and so how you go. You must need to do finer adjustments once you solve the initial issue
Quoted from ababapanos:
one more thing, today the ΤΟΜ does not open, I looked at the backyard and I saw a fuse burned from the board fliptronic II controller (F903)
This is the reason does not open; I still wanted to ask what type FUSE to put? in the manual he writes 3A SB, but in the burning fuse writes 10A
what is right to do?
I had this blow also. It is 3amp. Now i posted what worked for me but am not sure if this is the solution but now my game has not failed in many plays.
The trunk eddy and my right hand lane Eddy would remain on (led stays lit) when they are activated. They should turn off when the ball rolls away from them. I believe either or both magnets in my case where probably triggered and remained on blowing the fuse. Fuse always blew during multiball. So you need to adjust the eddy switches so the led lights when the ball passed them and turns off when gone. Took me awhile to notice this as the eddys would reset when the game is switched off. Fine tune these and then let us know the result. Adjustment is with a small screw driver turning the pot adjustment
Is this a known problem. I have on occasions shot the ball into the trunk (I think while it was moving? ) and heard the ball hit the bottom of the cabinet. I think in the 15 years I've had it, this has occurred maybe a dozen times. Am I missing something on the game I'm not aware of? The subway ramp entrance on my game does have a decent gap between the side walls and the pf timber
You can either take it off its mount and place it on the cabinet floor or I cut a rubber post sleeve and placed it over the bolts. It made it a little quieter. I also had to make an earth wire to touch the plate and transformer
Quoted from Parzival:
Anyone able to help with this issue?
The release coil mech doesn't seem to be working, to allow the balls to the trap door for ejection. It was working fine, than all of a sudden, nothing. When I took the release coil mech out completely, the balls got ejected from the trap door, but the multiple locks didnt' work properly.
Most probably a switch not being activated to say a ball is there trapped or the trap coil is broken ie. Wire is off etc. Try test firing that coil to see if it fires. If yes then look at the switches the ball rests on
Most likely the switch for the first ball lock
What is missing exactly. I have all the metal pieces and motor/gearbox and maybe wire harness. I have plastic trunk as well. Also I am in australia. Let me know via mail and will see exactly what I have you need and whether I am will sell and risk my parts trunk doesn't break
Here is what I have found so far
All are new/never used except for trunk eddy pcb. Obviously you can easily get the screws and hardware needed to put it all together.
Just looking at the manual, I think I also have the opto assembly, led sensors, magnet decal. Will need to look harder to see if I have anything else though.
I also have complete trapdoor assembly, hell I still have lots of parts for tom.
Quoted from etien:
Hello, my spirit ring doesn’t seem to grab any ball anymore. ( it never switch on during game play ). When tested it seems to work’ so I guess it’s a switch that doesn’t register the ball going down the ramp. Any idea where is that switch and it’s name on Twitter the manual?
More generally how should the spirit ring kicks in during game play? I really never bothered to understand it as it was happening from time to time before when I was playing and now I would like to test it and not really sure what triggers it?
Shoot the ramp first time, lights spirit ring, shoot again the ramp and ring should grab the ball
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