Yes it does. Thank you

Anyone know where to buy new T2 apron decals in the US?

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https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/terminator-2/terminator-2.htm although is doesn't seem to include the cannon decal included

Awesome, thank you!

Anyone know where to get these Skynet LED signs? Or have an extra pair lying around that they don't mind selling?

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They are listed on eBay. Seller is in UK.

Yeah i'm not paying $146 for 2 plastic signs with 0.25 cent LED strips lol...

I got them way back and it was cheaper I guess that guy is exploiting COVID. I sent you a private pm.

I made these poor man (although nothing is cheap now a days) stadium lights. I have enough materials to make a couple more. I hooked them up to the service plug inside the cab and attach via a magnet strip for easy removal. Feel free to send me a message if you'd like a set.

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Panic and relief. Ordered Hunter Killer upgrade 8 months ago. Go to work on T2 finally, can't find it. 4 days of searching and found it in a kitchen cupboard top shelf, to "protect it" . Finding that, best feeling this week so far. Too many parts and too many projects.

Hey all. Quick question. I changed the batteries on my T2 for the first time since I picked it up a few years ago. For some reason, now whenever I turn on the machine, it says "Factory Settings Restored" every time and "Date and Time Not Set" etc... I set the date and time, save it, turn on free play mode, save it etc, but every time I turn the machine off and on again, it's like it never happened and all the settings are erased. The machine is also plugged in FYI. I'm sure it's just some dumb small thing, but any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. G

Custom T2 Video Topper - Coming Soon!

[email protected]

If it was all working before hand and you simply worked swapped the batteries, then I'd first check the voltage of your 3 new batteries - sounds like one or all of them is dead or doesn't have enough voltage (each battery is 1.5V). As a side note, if you swap the batteries while the game is turned on, you won't lose your settings or high scores.

Sounds like one of the battery tabs on the battery holder is not making connection to a battery. Post a picture of the MPU board. I suggest NVRAM install, but this requires delicate desoldering/soldering.

Thanks for the responses! I checked the batteries and they're all fully charged Lithiums. The previous owner installed an external battery holder (pictured). I noticed that the black cable connecting the battery holder to the board was not connected and was just dangling, so maybe I pulled it loose when I changed the batteries. Not exactly sure where it connects, but I tried connecting it to the minus (pictured). Still no luck yet though. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much! G

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Connect the black wire to the very left negative pole

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This is intended as good advice and not as insult... But my thought is, if your knowledge and skills with electronics is this limited, you really shouldn't be working on your machines yourself. An expensive disaster is inevitable.

Here is a great guide for beginners.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

This fixed it for now. Thank you!

Haha thanks for the tip. I think this must have been done by previous owner. What kind of flux would you recommend? Thanks!

No offense taken. I definitely understand touching anything comes with potential catastrophic risk lol. In this case, I was just trying to change the batteries like a good Boy Scout haha, but I stumbled into trouble. Working great now though.

A different opinion, fix it and learn in the process. Nothing wrong with that at all. It's not like you're doing surgery on your kid. It's a pinball machine. If you cause some damage, it will be fixable. It might cost you $, but overall, it will be less than having to pay a technician every time your machine breaks because you never bothered to learn.

Anyone get the alternate translite from Retro Refurbs?

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/terminator-2-hand-drawn-alternate-pinball-translite/#

Curious what it looks like on an actual game.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-original-translite-hand-drawn/page/2#post-5338144

Terminator Pinball Video Topper mod
90 minutes, 1080 HD, Digital Stereo
All movies, trailers, animations, special features, unseen footage, Battle Across Time,
now available.

send me an inbox message, or text at 501-249-8628

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Any pictures of what it looks like?
How much?

Will you be at expo?

Those images are actual screen images from the media.
There are (2) versions of the 90 minute video
* With media audio and some music
* With music mainly

Here is sample 1 of the video

sample 2

I will not be at the expo, however if you would like to get additional information about this cool mod for your T2 Pin, contact me [email protected] or Text me at 501-249-8628

Post here and in T3, arranging the game room and opinions on T2, T3 next to each other or across from each other. They have same Skynet topper, I was leaning to across from each other. Opinions?

Freshly minted T2 member.

Picked up a very nice T2 from a guy who had done some pretty serious switch matrix wire cutting. I've managed to get it all back together with one strange exception.

Green/Orange ticked into j206 goes to the playfield. Easy enough. But there is another green/orange coming from the playfield with no apparent place to connect. Havent dug in too deep yet on the why's, but does anyone have an idea of why there are 2 and where the one from the coin interface goes?

Thanks guys.

My machine only has the one - I wonder if your wire had a break in it and an op has ran a second wire to replace the original (but left the original wire in the loom)? I'd trace both wires to see whether they are connecting to the same column switches

I only have a green/red and green/brown on the coin door interface which is used for the cabinet matrix switches (see below)

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this looks interesting! I would buy one if I had T2 still. Would make an awesome topper.

https://www.purearts.com/collections/terminator

I think I will re-join the club in the near future, but I would like to restore a game rather than buying one than has been molested by a multitude of operators and previous owners...

If you guys find a well priced, working, T2 please send it my way

this is one of my weak points reading these schematics, the coin door schematic confuses me.
Can someone explain the relationship and connection in between J1 -> J6 -> J3, trying to wrap my head around the schematic.
If someone can explain how the columns that Manny pointed out are wired into the game, that would be very helpful.

When I read the schematic, I can see there are cables coming from CPU J212 and connect to J1 into the coin door, but I am confused as to what happens after this point and how this connection intertwines with the other connectors.

Any tips that might help me understand this portion better? I will be soon building a coin door board and I am sure some of these questions will answer themselves, but it is always good to have a second opinion.

I believe the reason B/W used a coin door interface board was because they supported various coin doors (based on specific country requirements) - they used doors from Entropy and Coin Control, and both suppliers made various coin door models with 1 to 3 coin slots and some doors supported dollar bill validators (DBV). Hence the coin door interface board allowed B/W to use a standard wiring loom in the cabinet and simplified manufacturing. This is why alot of the connections on the interface board are simply being passed through, as it allowed B/W to plug in which coin door was required (dependent upon which country etc)

Thanks Manny

Back in action... soldering the playfield parts.

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Here's my version of a focusable laser (4,5 volts) mounted to the assy.

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These Lit Kit Flippers are available for T2 and T3 pinball machines as well at https://www.ArcadeMade.com - they are a lighted pinball flipper designed to interact with the game and are plug and play without soldering.
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Here you can see the small power regulator board for the laser, mounted next to the motor regulator board for the gun.
The wiring is conected beneath of the motor regulator board on J2.

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Then I found an older camper-system for illuminated scorecards, that I also use in my F-14 and WMS Indiana Jones.

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Another modification is the right inner woodrail, that I covered with stainless steel.

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Now I'm waiting for the delivery of some ball guide lane covers (T800) and a shooter lane cover (T1000) made of stainless steel.

I miss my Terminator 2!

I didn't expect to get one, but today I received the shooter lane guard (T1000).
Meanwhile really rare to find.
It need some rework and polishing, then it's fine.

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Tomorrow I will route the backbox wiring and do the first tests after nearly four years of restauration period.

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Sweet topper you have for it!!

Yes, thank you... very unique, rare custom made. There are only two of those.

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really digging this!

So far everything works fine on this machine... just had to resolder some connectors of some PCBs and swap a bunch of sockets.

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Next step is to reassamble all the parts on the playfield and to install the UT2HS, a ramp mod, a laserbeam for the cannon and illuminated scorecards.

The circuit for the UT2HS is laid out.... technically really well done.
The ship itself is also already installed and working.

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