(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider manny65.
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259 posts in this topic match your search for posts by manny65. You are on page 1 of 2.
#7375 4 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Can someone tell me when the CPU inserts are supposed to light up in the center of the playfield. When I got my T-2 they stayed on all the time like they were part of the GI, however i had some burnt GI connectors and hacked wires. I redid everything and got rid of the hacks and now I noticed the CPU does not lit up all the time like it was. It does flash at certain times during game play. What is this light supposed to do?

The CPU inserts are part of the GI and have a separate string (White-Green & Green). You can test the specific string in Test Mode under "Gen'l Illum"

... additional info

Just had a quick look and the manual doesn't mention the CPU string - here's a comparison between the manual and the test mode info from my machine for your reference:

Top Insert - White/Brown (manual) White/Brown (machine)
Bottom Insert - White/Green (manual) White/Orange (machine)
Left Playfield - White/Violet (manual) White/Violet (machine)
Right Playfield - White/Yellow (manual) White/Yellow (machine)
CPU - (not listed in the manual) White/Green (machine)
Not Used - White/Orange (manual)

So just check if you have all 5 strings connected to the PD board

The 3 playfield strings connect to J121 as shown below

cf40d2b9b8e0d798ed5e18c6ccfe89b219233114 (resized).jpgcf40d2b9b8e0d798ed5e18c6ccfe89b219233114 (resized).jpg
#7378 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob-T-800:

I found a better ship im ordering. This one is from led pinball mods.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you mean Lighted Pinball Mods? Or have you got a link where you got this from? As I can't find it

#7382 4 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

pretty sure I have with no issues.
same on getaway, bop and creech.
show pics of your issue?

Love the avatar mate!!

Been meaning to drop you a message - I was looking at a post of your T2, is your Hunter Killer ship the Cinemachines Die-Cast HK one?

#7384 4 years ago
Quoted from KJS:

Hi Manny
yes and modified[quoted image][quoted image]

Hadn't noticed the thruster LEDs - fantastic mod! You are truly the mod master and such an amazing looking pin!!

1 week later
#7392 4 years ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I really like these apron cards.
Does anybody have these?
And is willing to share them.
Thanks[quoted image]

Yep you can get it here http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/t2_custom_cards_2011.pdf

#7399 4 years ago
Quoted from Brendo78:

Hi T2 owners I’m building a T2 from scratch and have a playfield and cabinet. I’m after any spare parts you might be willing to sell. Ramps , rails, assemblies, plastics anything you can spare. I’m in Australia and got the $$$ for shipping So if you’re willing to help me out let me know what you have cheers Brendan

Hi Brendan

I've got some used parts - off the top of my head .... a translite, plastics, a wireform, speaker panel etc but will need to check exactly what I have if you are interested.

Cheers
Brett

#7408 4 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Sorted out the J115 and J120 wiring, but still have one last thing to solve. Extra bonus, when putting back the connectors, I noticed on one of the pics that the connector they had marked as J108 was actually for J505 on the sound board and BOOM - the no sound issue was fixed!
So after replacing the pins and headers at J115 and J120, I have most of the GI back up, what’s missing is the lower half of the back box. None of the GI was working before, so this is progress, but any ideas where to look next? I believe these go through the connectors I just replaced. Pics below:[quoted image][quoted image]

Orange and White/Orange for the bottom GI in the backbox (on the J120 connector - I think they are J120-2 and J120-8)

#7421 4 years ago
Quoted from Epistaxis:

And now for the next piece that's missing from this T2 and hopefully the last. I'm missing the bracket ball guide that goes on top of this post right here in front of the ramp. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[quoted image]

The bottom of the 31-1-50013-16 playfield plastic goes on that post

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-1-50013-16.html

#7423 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinstym:

Does anyone else have a T2 with no ball gate (A-13505) under the skull? Or has anyone played a T2 for a while that didn't have that gate? Just wondering what kind of problems one gets from not having it.
My game has that part # gate in the shooter lane (just purchased) and at the top right of the loop. I didn't even realize a gate should be under the skull, and that it was missing.
Got my parts from Marco yesterday and wondering if I should put another order in just for the skull gate, or if it's not a big deal I could wait till I need other stuff.
Thanks for any feedback.

Believe the gate is to stop balls bouncing back out. A full powered shot from the right flipper could potentially hit the wireform behind the VUK and bounce back over the VUK and come out.

#7428 4 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

So I still have no progress on the GI situation. It is an in line problem somewhere, because if I swap J120 and J121 I still get nothing on the lower half backbox GI. I’m new to digital multimeters, so need to figure that out.
Went hunting for other problems, only the right speaker is working. The left and cabinet speaker have nothing. I have two sets of wires, black and black/yellow, and they are in the right spots. Swapping those connectors (J504 and J505) doesn’t change the result. So need help there too.
Next, take a look at the pictures below on the skull assembly. The switch is hanging by a single screw, and the lever seems too short to make connection with ... I think the drop target? (It was too the right of the bottom of the assembly.) on top of that, I have a stray yellow/purple wire not connected to anything.
Any thoughts on the speaker or stray wire? And can I get a pic for what your switch looks like on the skull assembly?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

On the drop target switch, the loose white/purple wire should be soldered to the same switch lug as the other wire/purple wire on the switch.

Yes you'll need a second screw (4002-01105-8 Mach. Screw, 2-56 x 1/2") to hold the switch into place - in looking at your picture you have the plastic guide for the actuator so you may want to use the 4002-01105-10 Mach. Screw, 2-56 x 5/8" ... just check the length of the current one. The drop target has a plastic tab on the back that will push the switch actuator arm down when the target drops (below is a pic to give you an idea - the switch in the picture may have a longer actuator arm than what it should) . The switch is 5647-12693-31 and Pinball Life indicates the actuator arm is 1.9" long. Btw the plastic guide for the actuator goes on the outside of the switch to stop the actuator arm deflecting away rather than going down (see the 2nd image)

As for the lower insert GI string, that could simply be that one of the 2 associated wires in the connector itself is not making contact - if you have the original IDC style connector they are notorious for this. So swapping the connectors between J120 and J121 proves that the issue is somewhere from the connector through to the string itself. First place I'd check is the connector, there are IDC tools for pushing the wires into the connector or some people use a very small screwdriver as an alternate with varying degrees of success.

Let us know how you get on
Drop target assembly (resized).jpgDrop target assembly (resized).jpg

Plastic Guide (resized).JPGPlastic Guide (resized).JPG
#7430 4 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

I’m seeing that I need some sort of a spacer to get the leaf on the switch to be far enough out to reach that tab protruding out from the drop target. The bottom of the drop is hitting it and bending the whole thing. In your pic, is the lead switch angled out from the micro switch base?

If the actuator arm of the switch doesn't reach the tab on the drop target, then it's wrong and you should replace it.

Basically the micro switch needs to work, in other words when the drop target is pushed up by the coil the actuator arm will go up and be on an angle as shown in the above pic (as the is an internal spring in the micro switch); when the drop target is released it'll be pulled down by the spring that attaches between the target and bracket until the target and coil plunger tab rest on the big screw (number 15 in the above diagram). One of the 2 screws that hold the micro switch in place (number 21) is in a slotted hole that allows the micro switch to be angled such that when the drop target is down the actuator arm has been lowered enough to trigger the switch (if you manually lower the drop target you should hear a tiny click as the actuator arm triggers the switch) however shouldn't be permanently bending the actuator arm (there may be a slight deflection in the arm itself but it is made of spring steel and designed to handle this), nor should the arm be catching the bottom of the target (the arm should sit parallel to the target and only the tab should make contact).

First thing to do is go into the switch test and check that the micro switch is working, if working then you just need to replace the switch actuator arm otherwise replace the whole switch with a new one that has the correct actuator arm length. This will ensure that the switch works, the arm is the correct length and that it is straight and shouldn't get hit by the bottom of the target (if it does then something is out of alignment - bent bracket or the switch or target is not installed correctly)

#7432 4 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

The switch it self I can confirm is working. But let me clarify what I mean, because I think I explained it poorly. The switch arm is shorter than the one above but it looks like it still reaches the tab, which I think is what you mean above. But what’s happening is my switch it’s positioned in a way that the tab isn’t hitting the switch, rather the bottom of the drop hits it, which may be why the switch was twisted all together with only one screw in it when I got it. When I place it back, it looks like I need to create more space where the bracket is mounted so the switch itself can sit further out so only the tab hits it. So wondering if that’s how it’s situated on your games, which some sort of spacer where the switch mounts onto the bracket.

As per my previous post the actuator arm shouldn't get hit by the bottom of the target, if it does then something is out of alignment - bent bracket or the switch or target is not installed correctly. In the below diagram, the black arrow is pointing to the drop target while the red arrow is pointing to the switch - so the switch should sit out far enough that only the drop target tab hits the actuator arm. Maybe best to post several pics of your mech, so that we can potentially spot the issue

Plastic Guide1 (resized).jpgPlastic Guide1 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#7445 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Joined the club today! Surreal feeling pumped a million quarters into this baby as a teen.
Anybody have any leads on custom color Instruction Cards? Thanks. G[quoted image]

Here's some that you can download and printout yourself

http://www.pinballcards.com/Search?submit_form=0&search=terminator
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/

1 week later
#7450 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hi all. Still a newb here but I got a "Check Switch 62 - Left Ramp Made Error." The top part of the switch has come off the nub, so it's dangling loose and out of the lane. All the electrics still work, when i tap it by hand. Does anyone have any fixes for making the top metallic piece fit back on properly again? Many thanks and apologies if I got any of the terminology wrong haha.[quoted image]

I assume you mean the actuator arm (the metal strip that the ball makes contact with) has come off the black plastic knob on the switch body, that the actuator arm pivots on. In this case unscrew the switch off the wireform so that it is easy to handle, the actuator arm will have 2 holes that clip onto those knobs on the switch (1 on either side of the switch). If that area of the actuator arm has been stretched you may need to press the metal sides slightly together so that it doesn't pop off the knobs on the switch. If the knob has been completely worn down and won't hold the actuator arm in place then you'll need a new switch. Once you have clipped the arm back into place, you should be able to press the arm and hear the switch click. Then just screw the switch back into place (note that the switch will need to be positioned such that a ball passing by will trigger the switch but still allow the ball to continue on down the wireform).

2 weeks later
#7471 4 years ago
Quoted from lash:

Hi, Can anybody post Pictures from the connectors j115, j120 and j121?

T2 J115 (resized).jpgT2 J115 (resized).jpgT2 J120 J121 (resized).jpgT2 J120 J121 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#7497 4 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

My T-2 started having trouble kicking the ball into the shooter lane. You hear it kick and see the ball move but it seems like it's not being kicked hard enough to make it out into the shooter lane. Any ideas?

Check the mech that fires the ball into the shooter lane as the bracket may have come loose and the arm may not be cleanly striking the ball in the trough. You should be able to manually kick the balls out by moving the mech with your finger (best to have power off with your hand in through the coin door). This way you'll get a good feel for what is wrong

#7500 4 years ago
Quoted from fatality83:

Got home and the coil was bolted on tightly. The only thing that has some play is the arm that is attached to the coil. I would imagine there is supposed to be some level of play in this arm as it is only secured onto the bracket with a washer and cotter pin style clip. This naturally would allow some play in the arm. I partially disassemble it and wiped it down and put back together and it has been working fine ever since. Time will tell if this issue comes back or not. Having a little party this weekend so it will get tested then

It was the arm bracket (not the coil bracket) that I was referring to, as the arm needs to make contact with the ball in the trough and if there is too much play in the arm or it is slightly misaligned then it'll affect the ball going into the shooter lane

#7508 4 years ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Anyone know where to get one of those detailed heads to use as a mod? I thought I saw a post here a while ago about something from Amazon that looked good.

It's the Loot Crate Terminator Genisys skull, you'll find various places selling them if you do a search

https://www.amazon.com/TERMINATOR-GENISYS-Loot-Crate-EXCLUSIVE/dp/B010MBYJ12

#7511 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey everyone! I got a used machine about 2 months ago. Been working great, but my center target suddenly stopped working. It's the square one in these photos. I did a few manual tests with my hand and no matter how hard I pushed it, it doesn't register anymore.
Probably over my head and something I'll need a pro to repair, but just putting it out here in case anyone has ideas. In the UNDER picture, it's the one with the silver attachment... I do see one loose yellow cable under there, but not sure if that has anything to do with it. Thanks for any help you can give![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes the loose yellow wire should be connected (quite common issue to occur). Just need to solder the wire back on to the switch terminal (see how the yellow wire daisy chains between the switches, so you just need to solder it back on the centre switch that has the one yellow wire)

1 month later
#7573 4 years ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know what triggers "Warning" or "Danger" to show up on DMD display. I think I got some wires crossed on my playfield swap this causing my tilt problems. Trying to track it down.
Thanks

"Warning" message is generated from the plumb bob (Switch 14) - White-Yellow & Green-Brown wires

1 week later
#7588 4 years ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Very dumb question but I just picked T2 up i think this is incorrect. When you are in the skull mulitball and light the multi ball award on the left orbit. If you shoot that in multi ball it should not start correct on mine it starts another multiball which I'm pretty sure is wrong. Another question is sometimes it seems to start multiball but the game play is acting like it's in single ball play thanks Alek.

What ROM version do you have? L-8 is the latest official version, although there are some patches available as well

#7596 4 years ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

Another question guys I can't seem to figure out which is the game rom the stickers seem to all say sound roms thanks Alek.[quoted image]

If you go into the initial Service Menu, it’ll show you both the game and sound rom versions

#7617 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

1) Is there a trick for getting the fuses out or do I just wedge them out with a screwdriver?

If you don't have a fuse puller onhand, I've found looping a ribbon through behind the fuse (or something similar to distribute the force across the length of the fuse) to pull it out works just as well.

#7625 4 years ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Wondering if someone could help me. I can't figure out where these go. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Pete[quoted image]

The large plastic goes around the skull, between the left ramp and skull.
The rectangle plastic is used under the playfield on the drop target switch as a guide for the actuator arm (as sometimes the drop target can push the arm sideways out of the way, rather than down and triggering the switch - the guide stops this from occurring)
The 3 triangle plastics are to stop ball hangs
- one on the far left lane guide at the top of the playfield
- one on the far right lane guide at the top of the playfield
- one on right side of the center targets where the right ramp return wireform is bolted to

#7627 4 years ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Manny, would you by chance have any pictures?
Thank You,
Pete

Here's some images I've grabbed online - the triangle pieces just need to be rotated such that no ball hangs are possible (that said many people don't find them necessary).

The drop target shows the rectangle plastic guide actuator (#24 in pic) - my blue arrow shows the plastic in the left hand view. Note the switch actuator arm (red arrow) sits below the tab on the drop target (black arrow), and the guide simply holds the in place. Note that the original drop target (as per the manual) didn't have the switch guide, however this drop target was used in a few later B/W machines (eg STTNG & TS) whereby the guide was included to correct the issue (of the the switch arm getting pushed sideways)

T2 skull (resized).JPGT2 skull (resized).JPGT2 - Triangle plastics on top lanes (resized).JPGT2 - Triangle plastics on top lanes (resized).JPGT2 - Triangle plastic on centre targets (resized).JPGT2 - Triangle plastic on centre targets (resized).JPGPlastic Guide1 (resized).jpgPlastic Guide1 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#7681 4 years ago
Quoted from Don44:

I just finished cleaning my recently acquired T2, it came out nice but I have a couple of tweaks that still need to be worked out. First, my drop target fires 6 times when it goes up. I looked at the switch and its working but there is another small coil and not really sure what that does so maybe thats the problem, any advice though? Also, my cannon fires about as hard and fast as a real cannon, is there a way to adjust that?

The small coil is used when the game needs to pull the drop target down. The drop target has a small edge that holds it up and is spring loaded such that if either the ball hits the target or the small coil is triggered then the spring will pull the target down.

If the main coil is firing multiple times then the game isn't seeing the drop target in the up position - normally this a switch issue. The switch position probably needs adjusting. Go into test mode and check the status of the drop target switch, then in solenoid test drop the target and recheck the switch status. Then go back into solenoid test and raise the target and again check the switch status.

As for the cannon, check if it has the right coil as specified in the manual

4 weeks later
#7734 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

I am really starting to get annoyed about the poor quality of reproduction parts.
First I had the decal for the drop target that was *hit. But now I also have a speaker panel that is *hit. Colors are off (Way to bright) and printet text are blurry etc.
Why do they make so bad reproductions? Its not like the technology has gotten worse the last 30 years! "!#€%"#€%
If anyone know where to get OK reproductions of:
1. Drop target decal.
2. Speaker panel.
Please please please let me know

I feell your pain, it's really disappointing when the item you've bought (including paying $$ for shipping) turns out to be such poor quality ... you don't want to use it and nor do you want to sell it to someone else. And how many times do you try in sourcing a product to get what you should have got the first time round?

I'll have to double check my speaker panel and target decal I have ready for use and see how they compare

#7738 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. I'm pretty new to repairs etc, but the link on my flipper broke, so I replaced it and the plunger tonight, but I must have screwed something up because the flipper sticks in the up position (left). It still gets power and flips, but it stays up like this. Any thoughts on what I screwed up? Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

The EOS switch (you can see this in your 2nd pic - it's the leaf switch that is to the right of the coil and below the yellow capacitor) is not adjusted correctly. When the flipper is activated the plunger will be pulled into the coil and as the flipper mech rotates there is a small arm that will connect with the leaf switch separating the switch contact. Maybe you've accidentally bent the leaf switch such that it is no longer contacting when the flipper is down - you should be able to compare to the other flipper as a reference. Below is the EOS setting from the manual

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#7744 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I am.just looking for the clear plastic that goes around the skull.

You can buy it here https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-1-50013-8.html

Or if you want something more local to you then you can buy a set of the T2 clear plastics (5 in total) that includes the one you are after plus the 3 triangular plastics for ball hangs and an switch actuator guide for the drop target (WMS putthis on later games that used the drop target mech obviously to address issues that they'd seen out on site)
https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/T2_Page.html
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_41&products_id=456&zenid=7bc72b65af984789d82c3d0920988df1

1 week later
#7768 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

I am Really thankful for all the help I get in this forum. A complete restoration gives a lot of Questions.
The left main ramp. What size/type rivets are used? I would like to take mine apart to polish it really good.[quoted image]

Rivets used on pinball machines are called Oval Head, Semi-Tubular rivets - they vary in length but most (if not all) are 1/8" in shaft diameter

A good way to find the size details is in the parts list - you can get this and the manual from https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Marco stocks the zinc replacement for the rivet https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/07-6688-17N and the washer https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00003-00

You can get these rivets and washer also at stores specialising in rivets etc

#7771 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Lot's of places have rivits.
PinRestore has rivits as well as presses and dies if you need that sort of thing:
http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

I thought he'd retired 2 years ago - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-fine-people-at-pinrestore-are-retiring

I actually looked for the website 12 hours ago and it wasn't there ... clearly I must be losing it

It's great if the business is up and running again

#7772 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

i am looking at there master kit.
But what tool should I use for them?
I have never done rivets this way.

That website lists 3 options regarding how to press your rivets
1. buy a press that is already setup for pressing rivets
2. buy an Arbor press (a generic press) from a local supplier eg HF and grab Pinrestore's Rivet Press Kit to build you own rivet press
3. buy the Rivet Rollover Punch to press your rivets by hand (punch and hammer)

The press (option 1 or 2) is good but depending upon the location of the rivet you are pressing, there might be times when doing it with a punch is required. Some people only use the punch approach and are happy with that. I built my own press using the Rivet Press Kit.

#7777 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I ordered my press and rivets from them and I'm pretty sure it was less than 2 years ago. But, I guess you can ping them via email and see if they are still going.

I shot Scott a quick email and he responded straight away, so they are open for business. Not sure now of the validity of the Pinside thread I saw, or whether he took a sabbatical for a while and then came back, but the good news is that I don't have to go try to source rivets and tools from various places - pinrestore is a one stop shop for all this stuff!

#7782 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

What else do I need to mount my new DMD display in the panel? Are there brackets that go on the corner posts that hold the display in place? I have nothing on mine. Can someone provide some picture and/or part numbers?
Thanks,
Ken

The T2 DMD panel had a bracket that went on one end - the bracket assembly is A-15022 which is made up of the bracket 01-10416 and rubber strip 23-6667 (pictured below). So you'll need this if you are putting in a standard DMD display (not familiar with what is required if installing of ColorDMD or other alternative display etc)

Screen Shot 02-02-17 at 08.15 PM (resized).PNGScreen Shot 02-02-17 at 08.15 PM (resized).PNG
#7814 4 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Its made from the original tools. The only one available:
https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Terminator-2-Ramp

If they've made the base of the ramp (ie under the flap) thicker , then the whole ramp will sit higher as they can't reduce the height of the sides due to the ramp protectors needing to sit on the inside of the ramp itself. Do you have the original ramp to compare directly?

Maybe worth checking with Larry at Starship Fantasy, as something is amiss here

2 weeks later
#7868 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The T2 I am restoring had the red target and was a re-imported game

Quoted from Malenko:

I've played a hand full, they all had red center targets and the one I bought also had a red center target.
I think mine was also a re-import.

Well all the T2's I've seen here in Australia have never had a red target there and checking the T2 Parts List is shows 5 white (A-14690-5), 3 orange (A-14690-15) & 3 red (A-14691-4)

#7881 3 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I know for a fact mine werent stock, I mean its pretty obvious:
[quoted image]
BUT, I always saw the center target red, so I just assumed they used what they had on hand in red (and in this case, white too lol).

Yep the A-14690 are rear mounted targets (the white and orange targets on the T2) while the A-14691 are front mounted (used for the red targets). I found it common to find a mix of targets on a T2, as the op simply used what they had on hand.

#7884 3 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Sorry for bumping this question. But really need to know before I start to take everything apart for testing.
Is it normal that the four CPU lights are more dim compared to all other inserts? Or should they have same brightness level?

The CPU lights are GI - check whether you have the GI lights dimmed in your settings.

I find that they are not as bright as the inserts, but this might just be because of my settings (sorry not near my machine to test) or simply because they are GI.

1 week later
#7912 3 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

and the other ones done
the plunger bushing was held in with a single drywall screw -_-
found screws that fit aaaaaaaand that was that
[quoted image]

Haven't seen a T2 with FL-15411 flipper coils previously. The manual states FL-11630 (Red) while the parts list states FL-11629 (Blue) - I believe the red coils were originally slated but depending upon the actual machine they weren't powerful enough and were switched to the blue coils. Not sure if Williams changed this in the factory (when it went to production or during the manufacturing run) or whether it was only done in the field however there are a lot of T2's out there with FL-11629 coils. Interestingly your coils fall between these two for power - possibly what the op had available at the time?? End of the day, as long as you can make the ramps is all the counts

FL-11630 "standard" flipper strength (Red Coil Wrapper Color) - power 4.7 ohms; hold 160 ohms
FL-15411 strong flipper (Orange Coil Wrapper Color) - power 4.2 ohms; hold 145 ohms
FL-11629 strongest Williams flipper (Blue Coil Wrapper Color) - power 4 ohms; hold 132 ohms

#7926 3 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

When the left kickback is activated. Where is the ball supposed to go? Mine is so close to making it to the pops but don’t.[quoted image]

There is variation between machines, some (I've heard) do make it up into the top rollover lanes however mine and others I've played don't. To me it doesn't make sense that it should reward you by going into the rollover lanes (ie increasing multipliers or lighting extra ball), rather it returns the ball back into play where you can gain control of the ball as it comes back out of the chase loop

#7930 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I have a stand alone black wire that is missing its connector, can someone let me know where it goes in the backbox and on what board. Also, what is the pin location.
Thanks,
Ken[quoted image]

Think that'll be a speaker wire - post a photo of J504 & J505 on your sound board and a photo of your backbox speakers and one of the cabinet speaker. T2's can have 2 different wiring setups from the factory, or you may have an upgraded speaker & wiring which no longer uses this wire.

#7932 3 years ago

That loose black wire (from your original picture) should go to a 4 pin connector by itself (identical to the 4 pin connector shown) , and is typically connected to pin 3 (could be pin 4 as they are tied together). It's a bit hard to tell from your second photo with the connectors, but I believe your existing 4 pin connector has 2 black-yellow wires going to pins 1 & 2 and the a single black wire going either 3 or 4 - right? In your 2nd photo, the single wire with the inline connector will connect to a single wire from the cabinet speaker, while the wire from other side of the cabinet speaker is the one missing the 4 pin connector.

J504 (right connector - typically has the connector with the single black wire) and J505 (left connector - has the connector shown in your 2nd photo) however the 2 headers are identical - pins 1 & 2 from each of the headers are tied together (positive) and pins 3 & 4 from both headers are grounded.

Black-yellow - positive wire (Pin 1 or 2 or either connector)
Black - negative wire (Pin 3 or 4 or either connector)

Here's a picture I found - not in focus but shows what you need
speaker connection (resized).jpgspeaker connection (resized).jpg

#7944 3 years ago
Quoted from retroware99:

I'm having a small issue with my T2 in multiball. About every 25~50 games or so I'm getting two balls stuck in the skull at one time. It seems like this is happening if I shoot two balls very close in time into the skull. It is almost like the drop target is not resetting quick enough but it definitely resets. Indeed, this is how the two balls get stuck. I've also made sure that I have the gate in the skull and that it seems to work ok. Thoughts?

This is a common issue. Do you have the piece of foam in the skull?

See service note https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_33.pdf

#7952 3 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

That is strange. If a ball is located in the ball drop. It should trigger and kick the ball up. Is this not the case?

He's getting 2 balls stuck in the skull, so if he's at the start of multiball and the game will want to the skull shot made plus either the saucers locked or balls drained, before activating the VUK. With the 2 balls stuck in the skull, the game will think there is one in the skull and the other is on the playfield (as it is not locked or drained); if you lock or drain the 3rd ball then the game will eventually go into ball search and kick one of the balls up to the cannon.

2 weeks later
#7966 3 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey everybody. Is there any way to buy individual plastics or do you need a whole set? My two blue curved pieces that go around the skull at the back are pretty broken, so I'm looking to replace those. You can't see too well in these pics. Looks a little tricky back there but I may go for it haha. Thanks. G
[quoted image][quoted image]

Marco has them in stock

31-1-50013-16 (left side of skull) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50013-16
31-1-50013-19 (right side of skull) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50013-19

However I've found that there is a fair bit of colour variation on different T2 reproduction plastics compared to the originals. That said given you need both these (so they'll match), it may not be as noticeable with you other plastics as they are not directly next to them.

3 weeks later
#8005 3 years ago
Quoted from Asanteiro:

Hi friends, I'm telling you that yesterday I got a pinball pro kit for my t2 and it really doesn't sound like I expected.
I have another kit that I bought last year placed in a fishtales and it's really amazing.
My problem is that it rumbles or vibrates a lot at times.
Do any of you know anything about this?
maybe i can improve it .. i found this, anyway i already emailed pinball pro for help.
I found this on the web but I don't really understand what to do.
Greetings from Argentina![quoted image]

The speakers connect into the bottom right side of the audio board in the backbox (J504 & J505). T2 audio board (resized).JPGT2 audio board (resized).JPG T2 Audio Board Wiring (resized).JPGT2 Audio Board Wiring (resized).JPG

Both headers are wired the same, so you may find the connectors switched around to what you might expect but they are the same. Positive are pins 1 & 2, Negative are pins 3 & 4. Also note that your document has wires number 1-8 and they don't reflect the polarity correctly (black-yellow wire is positive) so think they have counted the pins from the wrong end and not differentiated the 2 connectors in the pin numbers.

Also the audio wiring on some T2's varied - you may have T2 Speaker Wiring (resized).JPGT2 Speaker Wiring (resized).JPG
but the most common is 3 wires to one connector and 1 wire to other as they have described in the document you found.

While I'm not sure how they are intending the 3 speakers to be connected (a diagram would have been very helpful), please note that the original T2 cabinet speaker was 8 ohm and maybe they are suggesting to change the wiring as the new speaker maybe 4 ohm ... just not sure

2 weeks later
#8016 3 years ago
Quoted from tezting:

Hi T2 friends.
The last puzzle in my Complete T2 restoration is done and my machine is finished after five years of work.
As some know I have complained multiple times about the *hit/crap quality nearly all reproduction parts are.
The only one who delivered quality and did not disappoint was Peter (playfield/plastic/decals) he knows what he is doing and its top-notch.
The last puzzle was my apron as you can see on the images below it was damaged and had rust under the paint so I had to restore it. The only options I found was vinyl stickers - in chrome or original colors. I want a original looking apron so I bought the ones in colors as an official reproduction/licensed.
There are two big problems with the stickers I bought.
1. The print quality is crap (surprise...)
2. There are "black" background around the colors.
The problem with #1 is bad but #2 is also bad as the black is way lighter than the black you paint. Making it very easy to see its a sticker and it is ugly.
So what should I do?
I turned to Pinside!
I asked for help on Pinside and a member helped me with my GFX and I got a complete vinyl sticker for the WHOLE apron.
Asked my local printshop to print it in high quality vinyl ($20) less than the garbage licensed I got.
My proces:
1. Sanded so it was flat and all rust was gone.
2. Two dents got some Dolphin Glaze and was sanded flat.
3. Sealed and then primed.
4. Sanded and I made sure it was flat and all issues where solved.
5. Painted it black.
6. Added the printed Vinyl (Heat was used to make it flexible for the lowered cards).
7. Clear coated with SprayMax 2K.
8. Orange peel and imperfections where sanded flat.
9. Polished to mirror.
Total cost? Maybe $35-40
Here are the images of before, under and after:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Impressive!!! Might have to try that myself ... when I eventually get around to doing my T2's (they've been torn down for almost as long as yours)

#8032 3 years ago
Quoted from RCSP:

My first post in this thread. I've had a T2 about 11 years. It's in excellent condition. I don 't think it has the newest ROM available, where can I see the ROM revisions so I know if a new ROM will fix my issues?
Issue #1 - During Multi ball I often get 2 balls into the skull. This confuses the game, eventually it spits one ball to the cannon and if you hit the target it immediately says "Get that Super Jackpot".
Issue #2 - Is the drop target supposed to stop the ball from entering the skull? Often I hit the drop target, yet the ball still ends up in the skull. Happens a LOT, several times a day.
Issue #3 - I think this is related to issue #1, during a multi ball sometimes I hear "Get that Super Jackpot" and a ball is loaded into the cannon but no target lights are lit. This happens about every 30 games.
Thanks for the help!

Yes it is possible to get 2 balls into the skull - the service bulletin (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_33.pdf) was released to stop ball hangs if this occurred (but not to address getting 2 balls in there), so I can only assume that it was recognised that it was possible. The drop target is to stop the ball entering the skull but sometimes with the specific trajectory and force can get the ball to drop the target and still have enough momentum to clear the dropping target.

I've not seen/heard of the 3rd issue so this might be resolved in a ROM update - what version do you have? The latest is L-8 although I've not seen a list of fixes that were addressed in each of versions

#8035 3 years ago
Quoted from RCSP:

Where did you get that skull? It's awesome.

It's the Loot Crate Terminator Skull - Google will find plenty for sale

1 month later
#8052 3 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Does anyone have a list/count of the t-nuts used on a t2 playfield?

Using https://www.moll.no/pinball/parts/ which searches the parts lists for the various games - clicking on T2 and using a search word of "tee" shows the following quantities

#used part number part name
------------------------------------------------
8 4406-01118-00 nut 6-32 tee
24 4408-01118-00 nut 8-32 tee 3/8 l
16 4408-01118-02 nut 8-32 tee 9/32l

1 week later
#8056 3 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. I picked up Judge Dread's helicopter mod, but my playfield's a little crowded in the spot by the skull where installation is recommended. Wondering if anyone has found any other cool spots to put theirs? Thanks!
[quoted image]

The helicopter is pictured in the decal on the right ramp, so this is where I've seen helicopters added to the playfield in the past - just not sure whether they were Judge Dread's helicopter mod

2 weeks later
#8065 3 years ago
Quoted from RCSP:

At the end of the right ramp is a round blue piece of rubber that the ball hits and drops onto the playfield. Then the ball is supposed to roll down to the flipper. One or twice a day the ball comes down the ramp to the right flipper, hits the blue rubber and bounces away from the player and moves 1/4" to the right and drains. I think I could bend the end of the ramp a little so the blue piece faces down a pinch lessening the bounce away from the player. Any thoughts?

Yes you can see this behaviour on different games, typically it's the spin on the ball that causes it to spin up out of the return lane and into the out lane. You can adjust the wireform position as to where the ball lands in the return lane to help avoid this ... I've not tried adjusting the angle of the blue pad (mine is 90 degrees to the wireform) however I could see how this may help, so worth a try.

#8071 3 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Is there a way to just reset the Grand Champion score while keeping all the other high scores in tact? Thanks. G

I don't believe so

1 month later
#8108 3 years ago
Quoted from RCSP:

I installed the loot skull with red eyes from Pinball Life. The ball gets caught between the jaw and the pop bumper cap, have to fix that.
[quoted image]

Interesting, you went with a bit of a side profile rather than straight on like the original, haven't seen that done before - was this because you wanted the different look or you didn't want to cut a hole in the back of the skull?

1 week later
#8131 3 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

anyone have a line on where I can find replacement bolts for the gun? both the mounting bolts and the ones that hold it together.

https://www.pinballsearch.com will search all the main suppliers around the world, so easy to find these hard to source parts

You can get the part numbers from the manual and/or the parts list (https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524 - Documentation section)

The 4 mounting bolts (looks like Marco has all of these)
4 x 4700-00060-00 fw .219X.500X.063
4 x 4700-00129-00B fw .203x.468x.030 black
4 x 4010-01097-24B ms 10-32x1 1/2 t-r bttn head
4 x 4410-01132-00 nut 10-32 esn

The 4 bolts that hold it together (Marco has the bottom 4 items)
1 x 02-4546 fastner-button head - looks like everyone is out of stock. Maybe see if PPS are getting more made??
3 x 02-4547 fastner-button head 1/2" - PPS has these in stock
4 x 4702-00014-00B lw 1/4-20internal tooth-black
4 x 4702-00013-00B lw #10 internal tooth-black
4 x 4010-01097-06B ms 10-32x3/8 t-r bttn head
4 x 4700-00129-00B fw .203x.468x.030 black

T2 Gun Handle (resized).JPGT2 Gun Handle (resized).JPG
#8138 3 years ago
Quoted from smcclain65:

So i am still having issues with the drop target but have resolved most of them. The drop target drops when hit and goes back up as it is supposed to. But i am still getting an error on switch 71. which is the drop target high switch. From what i can tell there is only one switch on the drop target and it triggers when the drop target is hit and drops. I cant find a high switch. Also it looks like only half of the skull target is visible when fully up so i am assuming thats part of the problem as well. But it still plays fine.
Any advice?

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Look at your switch matrix. You have a high switch(71) and a low switch (75) these are your target switches in the game along with the drop target feature. It has been awhile since I played T2, but I believe there is a sequence for the drop target to go from low to high or vice versa using the targets on the left side of the playfield. Hopefully, a T2 regular chimes in here.
I would check all the Targets to make sure there are no broken wires or broken diodes. Do all the usual testing and inspections.

The drop target has a single switch (77). The switches 71-75 are the 5 white standup targets you shoot from the plunger or cannon (the high refers to high up on the PF ie target closest to the skull; equally low refers to the target lowest on the PF ie closest to the flippers) - these are not associated with the drop target.

If switch 77 is closed the target is down, if it is open the target is up. smcclain65 you mention that only half of the skull target is visible, so I think the target is not being physically held up correctly - the coil plunger pushes the target up and it should clip onto a small ledge (#14 Stop Target) that holds it up, the ball then knocks it off that ledge and the spring pulls the target down. So I'd remove the target from under the PF so that it makes it easier to check and work on.

Manually push the plunger up - this will push the drop target (#1) up and it should clip on the Stop Target (#14). If the target is not staying up on the Stop Target, this might be because the Stop Target is worn/missing or the little wedge on the back of the drop target that sits on the Stop Target is worn or the other possibly is that the spring (#10) isn't keeping the drop target pushed forward such that it can hang off the Stop Target. If working correctly the drop target will be hanging off the Stop Target and you can let the coil plunger fall back down, the switch (#19) should now be in the open position ie the target is up (if you manually push the switch arm down you should hear it click as the switch closes). Now the simulate the ball hitting the target, simply knock the target - this will push the target off the Stop Target and spring (#17) will pull the target down, there is a tab on the drop target that will push the switch arm down and it doing so closes the switch ie the target is down.

Let us know how you get on

Single Drop Target (resized).JPGSingle Drop Target (resized).JPG
#8144 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Hey guys, would a couple of you mind checking out the thread that holds down this end of the left rear metal wall (circled in yellow) on your T2's and tell me if it has a washer between the playfield and the wall? Mine does, and I'm sure it's original, no idea why it would be there though unless it's a mistake. You can see the washer in the photo, and yes there's the also the usual washer underneath the playfield as well. Maybe it kept that end of the wall from digging into the playfield?
[quoted image]

Yes mine has the washer as well. Washers under a ball guide is used to either protect the PF from the ball guide being pulled down too tight and cutting into the PF, or to address alignment of components (although this I don't believe this is the case here).

You can clearly see it in the below tear down pic

T2 tear down (resized).jpgT2 tear down (resized).jpg
#8151 3 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Where did you get that T-1000? I want one like that. I don’t need the lights, and want the transition of cop to silver look.
Here’s my HK ship mod I just finished.
[quoted image]

pinball_customs used to make them but not sure if he still does - maybe send him a PM https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/132#post-4447762

https://modfatherpinball.com/products/terminator-2-t-1000-mod

ebay.com link: Terminator 2 T2 Pinball T1000 Interactive mod - this one is with the interactive lighting

#8159 3 years ago

Hadn't come across this website before - very cool

#8160 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_customs:

I still make them.

Awesome! Are they still $70usd for colour, $50usd shipped for Chrome?

I have a couple of T2 projects in the mix

1 week later
#8177 3 years ago
Quoted from smoothbore19:

I have a rottendog in the machine. Im wanting to try and learn on this board. It was working before I took it out but the gi connection was burned. I have tested continuity on the holes with traces, on the bottom 3 of 3 good. On the top all of them are good.

Terry's Soldering Guide thread covers doing pad work - depending upon your skill/experience it's worth reading the whole thread but here are the key posts on pad and trace repair

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/4#post-2768126
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/4#post-2768583
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/4#post-2773901
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1/page/4#post-2773918

#8182 3 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

ok so after a year I finally got my GI working and the cannon moving!
So onto my next issue.....
My left most trough switch is broken, the one with the "hook"
[quoted image]
(not my machine but thats the switch)
I dont have a t2 manual so I cant look up the part number, anyone have an idea? I think that being broken is whats causing my trough issues, and even if its not the fix, it still needs fixed.
EDIT : Just to clarify, that picture is NOT of my machine, just of the switch Im talking about, I grabbed the image from the photo gallery of this thread. I know its missing a diode, mine is not, mines got a broken switch actuator that snapped just short of the hook.
EDIT 2: found it
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12133-12

You can download a copy of the manual here https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Manual.pdf
Also useful is the parts list https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Parts_List.txt

#8185 3 years ago
Quoted from Asanteiro:

Hello boys as you are.
I have a question about my t2.
When the ball goes to the left side and activates the coil when the ball comes out it hits and doesn't come out clean.
In some cases it does.
Other not .
I thought it was the tilt and I do not solve it . Do you know what it can be? I leave pictures for you to see.
Greetings
Alex
[quoted image][quoted image]

When the ball is kicked back into play where does it go? Typically it will run partially up the chase loop and on some machines it'll even go all the way up into the top roll over lanes.

#8192 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Can anyone point me to a LED list? I am either blind or there isn’t one in the thread.
TIA

Here's the lamp list from the manual for the socket types but if you are after a list of what LEDs and colours to use this is very subjective depending upon your own personal tastes

T2 Lamps (resized).JPGT2 Lamps (resized).JPG
#8194 3 years ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Joined the club today! My son is a Terminator fan and very happy to have one to play at our leisure...[quoted image]

Welcome. Looks like you've scored a very nice looking T2!!

#8196 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

The 4 mounting bolts (looks like Marco has all of these)
4 x 4700-00060-00 fw .219X.500X.063
4 x 4700-00129-00B fw .203x.468x.030 black
4 x 4010-01097-24B ms 10-32x1 1/2 t-r bttn head
4 x 4410-01132-00 nut 10-32 esn
The 4 bolts that hold it together (Marco has the bottom 4 items)
1 x 02-4546 fastner-button head - looks like everyone is out of stock. Maybe see if PPS are getting more made??
3 x 02-4547 fastner-button head 1/2" - PPS has these in stock
4 x 4702-00014-00B lw 1/4-20internal tooth-black
4 x 4702-00013-00B lw #10 internal tooth-black
4 x 4010-01097-06B ms 10-32x3/8 t-r bttn head
4 x 4700-00129-00B fw .203x.468x.030 black[quoted image]

Hey Malenko if you are still looking for the barrel screws for holding the gun trigger together then I believe these would work. Note that the original used 10-32 threads but you'll get the barrel & screw (10-24) so it doesn't matter; the other thing is that the original were black where as these are stainless steel (you could paint them but the stainless steel might look good). I haven't pulled my gun apart to measure the specific size you need - let me know if you need the sizes

https://www.mcmaster.com/tamper-resistant-torx-binding-barrels

#8198 3 years ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I was playing a game after fixing the trough switch and the left flipper died, so Im going to try and get that sorted tomorrow morning

Haha yup typical - fix one thing and another thing fails. Gotta love pinball!!

#8207 3 years ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Hey All! My new-to-me T2 has issues. Nothing registering in the top half of the playfield during switch test. Checked fuses and connectors, so just wondering what my next move should be? The left ramp entry looks like the first switch in the column, so maybe start there?

I'd suggest testing every switch and marking those that don't work on the below switch matrix diagram to see if there is a specific pattern to which switches aren't working. From this you'll be able to focus in on where the issue is

T2 switch matrix (resized).JPGT2 switch matrix (resized).JPG

#8210 3 years ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Thank you for the chart. Not a lot of pattern to go on...it’s everything in columns 3,4,5 and 6. None of these switches register. All solenoids fire during the solenoid test though.

Quoted from MasterBlaster:

I think I might have found the root of the problem. One broken wire and one wire pulled out of the pin on J207. Also, why is this connector different than the others?
[quoted image]

Firstly the different connector shows that it has been replaced as some time. The first diagram below is the wire colours and associated connector pins.

Also note that pin 1-3 on J212 are the same as J207 pins 1-3 (2nd diagram). Looking at the first diagram J212-3 isn't connected, however it is in your picture and J207-3 is as well, so this seems odd. So I believe this is where your issue is and probably best to repin that connector

T2 J207 (resized).JPGT2 J207 (resized).JPGWPC CPU board connectors (resized).jpgWPC CPU board connectors (resized).jpg

#8214 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Hello Group, finishing up a T2 shop out for a friend and have an issue with the plunger coil not working. What is the best way to test the coil? I used my meter and I get a reading of 11.7 ohms. Coil does not fire in Solenoid Test. The Gun trigger switch works, so it is not related to that. Thanks for any input.
Ken

What coil do you have on the plunger? Looking at the manual it's a AE-23-800 and https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html shows it should have a resistance of 4.2 ohms

#8217 3 years ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Just joined the T2 club! Gun and canon wont fire via the trigger. The thing is set to autofire and launches the ball from both on autofire. What should I look at as the cause?

Go into switch test mode and check that pulling the trigger is activating the switch. It could be your switch needs adjusting or has failed

#8218 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

It is an AE-23-800 coil. Just re-measured and I do have 4.2 ohms. I also checked voltage(DC) and I have 75V on each lug.
My next step is to buzz out the TIP 102 Transistor Q58, then I will ground it momentarily to fire the coil. May have a bad TIP 102, I will also check the Diode

Yep that's what I suspect is the case - let's us know what you find

#8221 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

New issue with Outhole. Can't get ball to eject into lane. Here are 2 videos of what is happening:

This is the trough mech (the outhole is under the apron and loads the balls into the trough). Remove the balls and lift the playfield, try manually moving the trough mech - the arm should swing up to strike the ball, kicking it into the shooter lane. Sometimes the mech needs to be adjusted in the screw holes for the arm to strike the center of the ball, however yours doesn't seem to have the full travel. You might need to replace the coil sleeve or something may have gone wrong with the mech. If it has the full travel and nothing seems to be causing resistance, go into solenoid test and test the coil (with the playfield up), if it seems to be working then it might just need to be adjust to strike the ball better

#8224 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Almost ready to play games...

Like the colours, not too over the top - well done!!

How did you go with the trough kickout, did it just need adjusting?

#8230 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Alright guys made some progress the last few days digging into issues.
Game resets settings when the game was turned off- board is on its way out for NVRAM (battery holder was loose).
ROM is L-6, is it worth upgrading to L-8?
My 1-Bank Drop Target Assembly is missing A-11388-2 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11388-2
Anything else I should order?
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do the coils work? Does the drop target switch work? You can test the drop target even without the plunger (just need to manually lift the target). Probably worthwhile replacing the coil sleeve. Oh you're missing one of the 2 screws holding the switch.

Also the actuator guide is on the wrong side of the switch - see the diagram below the switch (red arrow) is between the drop target (black arrow) and the actuator guide (blue arrow). This stops the switch actuator being deflected sideways as the drop target falls

Plastic Guide1 (resized).jpgPlastic Guide1 (resized).jpg

#8231 3 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Look in the manual!

LMAO

#8234 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Thanks for your useful help, I think it is obvious I did look at the manual but this part is pretty tough to get to and see each little detail.
Both the drop target switch and knock down work.
I will try and pull the whole assembly off tonight to see if I can move the actuator guide to the right spot.
Thanks again!

Yep the best thing is to remove the whole mech, then you'll be able to compare it accurately to the manual diagram. If you have any questions, just ask post them up

#8238 3 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

It's the same assy like Indy, isn't it?

Yes it's the same mech - it was used in T2, STTNG, IJ and Shadow (possibly others as well)

Quoted from smcclain65:

Can you take pictures of what the mech looks like, I have taken mine off a couple of times and i still think its not working right. The target doesn't come up enough.

When you say it doesn't come up enough, can you manually push it up with your finger? Does it slide easily and latch on the stop (number 14 in the diagram)? They can become gummed up and not slide smoothly - disassemble and clean will usually fix this, and note what eyeamred2u said about the washers (number 9) on the 2 studs, as it is important to have it assembled correctly.

Single Drop Target1 (resized).JPGSingle Drop Target1 (resized).JPG
#8243 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Yucky original ramp flap has wear, some rust underneath, rough edges from the factory stamping, and a divot at the lower right where it looks like the ball would get hung up between the two post rubbers nearby and bashed during multiball.
[quoted image]
New ramp flap I cut, filed smooth, punched holes, and riveted yesterday. Much nicer. I expect the divot will reappear in time, but it ain't there now!
[quoted image]

Nicely done - what did you use to cut the new flap?

#8246 3 years ago
Quoted from smcclain65:

Thanks for the pics. That last pic is what i needed the most with that leaf switch. It looks like mine is bent and i wasn't for sure if it should be. And what actually should be hitting it. I need to look at mine more closely and compare to yours.

The microswitch actuator arm needs to sit below the tab of the drop target (see the red arrow)

Drop target (resized).jpgDrop target (resized).jpg

The switch is closed when the target is down, sometimes you need to adjust the switch position (see the 2 examples in the below pic) - basically you want the switch triggered when the target has come to rest on the height adjustment screw

sttng dt1 (resized).jpgsttng dt1 (resized).jpg

Note the plastic actuator guide in daveddd14 pic (red arrow) is on the wrong side of the switch. See the diagram, the guide is there to stop the switch actuator arm being push sideways as the drop target comes down.

T2 drop (resized).jpegT2 drop (resized).jpeg
Plastic Guide (resized).JPGPlastic Guide (resized).JPG

Hope this helps

#8248 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Neiko Power Punch 02612A. Works great, punching the holes was probably the easiest part.
ebay.com link
[quoted image]

Early Christmas present

Hole punch (resized).jpgHole punch (resized).jpg
#8251 3 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

What is a fair price for this stuff? Anyone interested?
[quoted image]

I'd say USD$50-60

1 week later
#8258 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I installed my right habitrail today and notice that it's sitting low so that the ball actually hits the Robert Patrick plastic over the orange standups. I added a few shim washers under the bracket where it bolts to the right slingshot post, but it's still too low. I think maybe the problem is that it's sitting too low on its right side, as it's resting slightly on that front plastic on the right woodrail too, and there's no support for it at all on that side. Has this been an issue on anyone else's machine? How did you fix it?

Yes very common for the Robert Patrick plastic to have wear marks around the last letter of "Kickback" from the wireform laying on the plastic and causing it to rub on the post underneath it.

#8260 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Yeah, this plastic has that, and also parallel rub marks across the top from the two strands of the wireform that lay right on top of it. The bigger problem though is that since the wireform sits right on the plastic, the ball hits the edge of it and then rides along the topside of the plastic. Only a matter of time until it breaks.

Oh I hadn't noticed that - will have to double check mine ...

#8263 3 years ago
Quoted from Quadrider:

Joined the club back in August, and finally got around to a complete PF Teardown. Along with leveling the raised inserts, new plastics, Titans, Comets, I installed the loot skull with the PBL eyes. Super impressed with how awesome crystal clear pop bumper caps and comet red pop bumper rings look!! Came out great! One thing I missed were the 2 broken rubber posts behind the 3 advance stand up targets. Anyone know the size or part number of these from Marco?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The 2 on the left should be the same post, while the one of the right has a screw hole in the top - hopefully you'll be able to determine the post part number from the post list (this is from the manual)
T2 strip 1 (resized).jpgT2 strip 1 (resized).jpgT2 strip 2 (resized).jpgT2 strip 2 (resized).jpg
T2 pg 2-29 (resized).JPGT2 pg 2-29 (resized).JPGT2 pg 2-30 (resized).JPGT2 pg 2-30 (resized).JPG

#8270 3 years ago
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Here is my take on the terminator 2 skull replacement. I hand sculpting a neck and added some shiny wires for some detail and mounting, painted in skull details as it came sloppy, added led with a connecter for easy removal. Overall I’m happy with it although if I were making it again I definitely have some changes that I would make that I think would make it even cooler.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow that looks very cool - well done!!

#8274 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Thought I was all done and gonna post pix of the finished game, and now the "dialing in" problems surface after the first few games. So it looks like the holes for the right inlane/outlane wire guide were drilled all the way thru my playfield, and every time the ball exits the right habitrail is knocks the wireform down into the pf a little bit. I was wondering why that wire was down at pf level when I got the game, and now I know. Any of you T2 owners had this problem? I'm thinking the best fix is a screw and washer next to each hole.
[quoted image]

I not seen this ever before and would suggest repairing the PF as per DrBernd post above. Also the ball shouldn't be hitting the top of the wire guide when exiting the wireform, maybe need to adjust the wireform to avoid re-damaging your repaired holes.

#8280 3 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

It's not my homepage, AVO offers the information in German only.
Shipping is extra and it's helpful to order a bunch of it to spare some money.
So, maybe some more Pinheads are interested in the UT2HS?
In combination with PinSound and digital remastered mix this mod is mindblowing.
Just watch this... it's an older version, but ... whoouuuu.

Now that's bloody awesome!!!

#8296 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Finally finished up my Shadow and am back on T2. Coming across a new error (not sure if it is new or never noticed before).
Switch 71,72,73,74,75 are all out.
Checked the board and made sure it was fully plugged in (it is)
No broken wires under the playfield- I see that all the switches are "daisy chained" together into 75 which then has the green-violet wire coming out.
No errors on the machines
Every other switch is working
Any advice on to where to go next?

Do switches #76 Ball Popper, #77 Drop Target and #78 Shooter lane work? If not then you have a whole column out otherwise it's a diode/wiring issue

T2 switch matrix1 (resized).JPGT2 switch matrix1 (resized).JPG

#8299 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

76-78 all work. I’ll keep checking wires, game is so dirty from Italy it looks like!
Thanks!

How many green/violet wires are on switch #75 - there should be 2 green/violet and the yellow daisy-chaining wiring all soldered on the one terminal.

Equally the drop target and VUK ball popper switches will have 2 green/violet, while the shooter lane only has the single green/violet.

T2 Switch 75 (resized).jpgT2 Switch 75 (resized).jpg
#8308 3 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Went to the AVO site. Seems like a PIA to order. Not sure how to determine international shipping cost. Must wire payment to their bank... not sure exactly how I would do that and if another fee will be charged to do that. I doubt I would have purchase protection paying this way as well.
If anyone in the USA buys one, please post what your total costs were and how you went about actually paying.

I've placed my order - I just used google to translate the german phrases to english. Andreas told me to place the order as "cash on pickup", it'll still show as 345 Euro but he'll go in and modify the order to remove the 19% Value Added Tax (VAT) and add the 32 Euro for shipping. So you'll pay 322 Euro if paying by PayPal family and friends transfer (Paypal will charge ~13 Euro in fees) or 337 Euro if buying with PayPal Buyer Protection.

#8310 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

What exactly are you buying?

Ultimate T2 Hunter-killer Ship (UT2HS) which is sold by AVO

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/167#post-6049017

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/166#post-6044173

Quoted from scampcamp:

Is there a YouTube video of this in action?

Quoted from scampcamp:

What is the price with shipping to the US?

322 Euro if paying by PayPal family and friends (Paypal will charge ~13 Euro in fees) or 337 Euro if buying with PayPal Buyer Protection (no Paypal fee)

#8312 3 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Stop - the UT2HS is not designed by me!!!
I just redesigned the installation instructions and did the translation from German to English language.

Oops sorry Averell I misunderstood your post - my apologises

I'll update my post

#8314 3 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

No problem, just order this damend ship, man.

Haha don't worry that's already been done

#8318 3 years ago
Quoted from ravve:

Anyone please help me locating where all GI lamps should be on the playfield!
I get several GI strings completely out when testing those in the menu, but don't know what they should light up?

There are 5 GI strings - 2 for the backbox (top and bottom insert) and 3 for the PF (Right, CPU and Left). You should be able to easily trace the GI strings under the PF to find exactly which sockets they light. WPC machines often had GI issues due to the power it drew through the connector on the power board - that's the first place I'd suggest checking. Here's some pics however the left PF string is out on mine but pretty obvious it lights the plastics down the left side of the PF

T2 Upper Inserts (resized).jpgT2 Upper Inserts (resized).jpgT2 Lower Inserts (resized).jpgT2 Lower Inserts (resized).jpgT2 Right PF (resized).jpgT2 Right PF (resized).jpgT2 CPU (resized).jpgT2 CPU (resized).jpgT2 Left PF (resized).jpgT2 Left PF (resized).jpg

#8323 3 years ago

Beat me to it - I was trying to find the website LOL

#8327 3 years ago
Quoted from shepP:

My Ultimate Huntership arrived yesterday. It was well packed and looks awesome! Now I just need to find time to install it....

I received mine yesterday as well and agree that it was well packed for overseas shipping and looks fantastic. Looking forward to getting this mod installed

T2 HK Mod (resized).jpgT2 HK Mod (resized).jpg
#8329 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Alright new issue (I feel like I should be paying shrink fees here). I "assumed" that all the lights that were out were because of bad bulbs.
Now that I started to upgrade them to LED's I noticed the CPU light were all out, started to look at change bulbs etc. and disconnected and I get this (image below) pin was stuck and came off the board, and pin is broken as you can see it missing.
A quick look online and you cannot buy the lamp board (A-14518) anywhere. I have not gained the soldering on a board yet, though I guess I could try on this. Thankfully haven't had to deal with this yet so not sure where to turn next.
Appreciate any leads/ideas![quoted image]

More than likely you had a cold solder joint (the solder was cracked around the pin) and hence why all the lamps were out on that board. It's a 4 pin header on that board - parts list show it as 5791-10871-04 "4h spl sq pin .156"

You might be able to solder the pin back in or simply replace the whole header however I can't find the exact same part and not sure the which would be the best replacement (there are various .156 headers). I think this would be suitable https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15604

#8339 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

New issue when putting my T2 back together. Can't get the ball to eject cleanly to the plunger. Prior user bent the Ball runway guide, replaced that, also replaced the ball eject parts with new ones. Now I have the unit striking the ball well behind it, as you can see in my pics. Should I just drill new holes and reposition as it seems like the holes may have been off from the factory and solutions were done on the fly to make the game work.
Could someone take a pic of where the cam strikes the ball so I can compare. Thanks.
Ken
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Ken

The first 3 pics are with the striker arm at rest, while the 4th is where the arm makes contact with the ball. Note because the PF is tilted I'm holding the ball in place as it would sit normally. In comparing against yours I'd say they were pretty similar - does the ball not make it out of the trough or is it bouncing off the ball guide in the trough (see 1st pic above the striker and on the right)?? Maybe take a slow-mo video to help see what's happening?? Anyway let me know if you need any more pics

T2 ball release 1 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 1 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 2 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 2 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 3 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 3 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 4 (resized).jpgT2 ball release 4 (resized).jpg
#8341 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Never makes it out of the trough. Ball guide has been adjusted out of the way, as that was the first thing I thought to do. I do have a video, I will slow it down and then post it. Thank you for the pics.

Do you have a cliffy installed? Just trying to think of other potential issues

#8345 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I agree with you on this, the arm has so much "play" in it, I will try your suggestion and report back to the group.

I was quite surprised when taking my pics for you how far off centre mine is, yet the ball still makes it out into the shooter lane - in fact it would hit the opposite side of the shooter lane and bounce back into the trough, so had to adjust the trough ball guide angle.

Question - has the new eject arm got more play or flex in it than the old original? If the original has less flex then maybe striking the ball off centre wasn't as much of an issue, whereas it is for the replacement arm??

#8347 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

The other thing that bothers me is the coil stroke seems really short. I also replaced the coil bracket and now I wondering if the new stop is higher than it needs to be preventing the arm length to be correct. Could someone measure their coil stroke for me?

Plunger stroke is 16mm

The other thing to check is how firm is the spring on the eject arm - mine is reasonably firm, but if your's is weak then it might not be transferring the force through to the ball??

T2 Kickout Coil1 (resized).jpgT2 Kickout Coil1 (resized).jpgT2 Kickout Coil2 (resized).jpgT2 Kickout Coil2 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#8351 3 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Does anyone know where you can get the Artificial Intelligence Lab sign from this picture? I'm guessing there is also one for the Skynet plastic too?
[quoted image]

Yep originally done by some of the guys in Germany, here's the thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t2-skynet-and-changing-led-mod

Judge Dreads in the UK now sells a similar version ebay.com link: Terminator 2 T2 Pinball Lighted Ramp Signs PAIR mod RGB OR BLUE

#8374 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Hey New owner here ...

I believe the rotation of the gun is dictated by the mechanism on itself, the switches are only there to tell the game when the gun is home - has left home - AND - if the ball has not been fired then it is shot onto the playfield automatically.

Welcome to the club and yes you're on the money, the cannon movement range is entirely mechanical.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Looking at your 3rd video, I would have to look under my game, but I think, the middle piece (brass color) that connects the 2 arms, does not seem to be original... Again, I am not sure, but I will take a look tomorrow at some point and double check against mine (maybe mine is different than yours). maybe someone else can chime in in the meantime and share a pic of their assembly.

Pretty sure it's original - checked 4 T2 gun motors and they're all the same

T2 cannon (resized).jpgT2 cannon (resized).jpg

Quoted from mikecav:

OK ottawaflip thanks for the write up again. I get it now, it's not the switches... and now I understand what that one switch is trying to do (and have it properly set up).
I'll attach some videos of the cannon working in the test mode, both from above and below the playfield. I also stopped and fired it at it's lowest point to show where it is hitting... if you see anything that looks out of place, please let me know.
I looked for anything obviously worn, but nothing jumps out at me. I did remove a screw and examine the arm that connects the motor to the shaft to see if there was any play in it so that it could rotate the shaft further, but no luck there.
Thanks for the help...

I've not had to work on the T2 cannon gearbox or linkage previously, so can't say why you'd have a limited cannon movement but here are some pics to compare to yours. The first pic is the cannon at home (the metal post on the black disk is just below the 9 o'clock mark), as the cannon swings out it goes thru At Mark and gets to the maximum movement of the cannon, pic2 shows the cannon position (I can hit the post below the lower target) and pic3 shows the metal post has rotated clockwise to just before 12 o'clock - the cannon movement is close to 90 degrees of movement. As the cannon swings back it reaches At Mark again, where the ball will be fired (if not previously fired), pic4 shows where the cannon is aiming at that time. On your machine check out the movement of the metal post on black disc, I believe that you'll find it's less than the 90 degrees I get. If this is the case then I'd suspect the linkage arms and their pivots are worn, though you didn't spot anything on the first pass. Anyway let us know how you get on and if you need any more pics or comparisons

T2 cannon - home (resized).jpgT2 cannon - home (resized).jpg
T2 cannon - max range1 (resized).jpgT2 cannon - max range1 (resized).jpg
T2 cannon - max range2 (resized).jpgT2 cannon - max range2 (resized).jpg
T2 cannon - at mark (resized).jpgT2 cannon - at mark (resized).jpg

#8376 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

4 T2! nice collection!

I picked up 2 project machines, that a bloke was planning on building a single machine out of and the sell off the remaining parts. However I'm hoping to be able to source everything I need to rebuild both of them. Everything had been stripped down, so what I received was cardboard boxes of parts ... but fortunately I have another T2 I have been planning to restore that I can reference. The Cyberdyne Systems will be coming online soon and machines will begin to roll off the factory line - clearly I'll be very familiar with T2 by the time I finish them.

T2 was the first machine I owned and I still have that one too

#8381 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I think I've figured out what the problem is, if mikecav's is the same as mine. There are two shafts that drive the gun, one that goes through the gearbox and then mates up with a second shaft, the one that goes through the playfield that the gun itself is mounted on. The gun motor goes through an entire rotation each time it drives the gun through its up-down-up position via an arm and cam. I found that on my game, where the two shafts connect via slot in the top one and tabs in the bottom one, there is just enough of a gap between the two that the gun won't come down all the way. If I stop the gun test when it's lined up with the second-to-bottom target, I can turn the gun just enough by hand that it lines up with the bottom target. It's a purely mechanical problem and neither the switches nor the wire that wraps around the shaft above the playfield have anything to do with it. I can't think of an easy fix for this either - maybe a shim wedged into the link between the two shafts, but I don't see that staying in there for more than one or two games. Ideas?

Here's some pics - on my project machine they seem to jam together quite tight with no play however on my working machine there is a very small amount of movement at this joint but there is significantly more play on the linkage arms.

Could you bend a shim over each tab (like a U shape) and then push the gearbox shaft into the slot - given that the motor bracket is screwed to the underside of the PF and the cannon shaft with the slot is held in place by an E-clip, the 2 shafts are held together so I wouldn't expect the shims to come out.

T2 cannon - cannon shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - cannon shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - gearbox shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - gearbox shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - shaft joint (resized).jpgT2 cannon - shaft joint (resized).jpg
#8387 3 years ago
Quoted from mikecav:

What I did find curious was this below... see how these two parts of the mechanism are not exactly straight? I've circled below...
[quoted image]
Is it possible that this is just misassembled? I have not completely remove the cannon as the game is "working" and I'm not looking to put it out of commission trying to fix it (and screwing it up)... is this alignment between these parts normal?

Yes this is how mine is as well

#8388 3 years ago
Quoted from Wilberto757:

Has anyone had this issue before? I just finished waxing the lane so im not sure if its correlated or coincidence. Even after wiping some off, the plunger gun still misfires

Interestingly enough, when it does eventually work the ball falls short. And on only one occasion it demonstrated full power somehow? Respective videos examples below:

Go into solenoid test mode and test the shooter lane plunger with a ball in the lane - do you see the same issue? I would expect that you'll see the same issue, some may work but others won't. If this is the case, I'd check the solder joints on the coil (you'll probably need to take the apron off) - look for a loose connection or cracked solder. Let us know how you go

#8402 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

that was really helpful, thank you again! I put it together but had to go out and buy new screws, whoever tinkered with it before me totally killed the old Phillips screws, so good thing the fell off or I would have not been able to get them out. I got some nice Allen key type screws so a lot easier to get those in, specially in the weird angle that switch is. The switch still works but it is about to collapse.
I have a few other things to order from Marco so I will order this switch as well, thanks for the part number!

The easiest way to work on the drop target is to remove the whole assembly from the PF.

To find the correct part numbers, the manual and Parts List spreadsheet are your friend - you can download these from ipdb.org also it can help with how parts are assembled. Note that the actuator guide (clear plastic) was not of the original design but got added afterwards, hence it's not shown in the below assembly

T2 drop target (resized).JPGT2 drop target (resized).JPG
#8406 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Love the buttons!
Wondering what your games plungers tips look like?
Mine all are bare plastic, are they supposed to be like that or are these missing a rubber cap ?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

They all use the same bell armature A-6306-2

A-6303-2 (resized).JPGA-6303-2 (resized).JPGT2 Kickback Assemblies (resized).JPGT2 Kickback Assemblies (resized).JPG
#8415 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I noticed my left flipper was sticking and took it out, noticed the coil sleeve was a bit tight (an indication that the coil is about to go)

Sticking flipper (sticking up??) can be either electrical or physical issue - testing with the power off will determine this, prior to disassembly. (just an FYI as we are past this point in time now)

A tight coil sleeve is an indication that the coil has got hot (not that it is about to fail), this is most likely because the drive transistor has failed and it's locking on the coil. This will draw too much power and blow the fuse. If you can remove & replace the sleeve then the coil is fine, if you can't remove the sleeve then you need to replace the coil - coils typically don't fail.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

a few minutes into a game the game started to act up when activating the multi ball/cannon, solenoids will not trigger properly and the cannon will swing out before the ball gets to it... eventually it will reset and continue but before I had a chance to stop the game, all of the sudden power to the flipper was gone...

Weird behaviour - was the flipper stuck up during this? Was the flipper going up at any stage of its own accord (that is without you pressing the flipper button)?

I suspect you have at least one failed transistor on your power driver board but that doesn't explain the other things that happened.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I presume this does not end here

Where would be the fun in that??

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I can go into service mode and run tests but the solenoid test does not do anything except for inching the cannon.
sometimes (not sure when as it is late and did not have to check anything else) pressing the right flipper button activates the cannon (if in service mode I think)...

Pull out and check your solenoid and flipper fuses (I assume you have a DMM)
Check the voltages on your power driver board Test Points (see the image below)
Go into switch test mode and check all your switches (including all your cabinet switches) work - watch the matrix image on the DMD to check if pressing a switch is activating multiple switches in the matrix

Let us know what you find

WPC Power Board - Voltage Test Points (resized).jpgWPC Power Board - Voltage Test Points (resized).jpg
#8419 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I played really long games with this game before and it has been working great, I am the only one using it too and I have been paying attention to how it plays... I have only had it for 2 weeks and this is the pin I own for now (have avengers coming soon)
I bought a new fuse today and put it in (no left flipper coil in the game currently) the game starts and works as it should. All solenoids now work. Have not tested the switches, did not have time to do it today BUT I remember checking them before very recently and they were all good.

Well that is a good start - no idea why you experienced the weird behaviour.

While it is good to know that the game and switches were all working previously, when you troubleshoot you need to re-confirm everything - for example you had said that you couldn't start a game, so going into switch test mode and confirming whether the CPU can see the start switch button being pressed is useful for us to try to determine what is going on. Anyway it seems that it's all working other than the left flipper.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

My game has Rottendog boards for both the CPU and Driver Board, it is a little different design than the OEM board and I think the Rottendog has testing pads on the centre, with that said:
I do not know how to test the voltages you mentioned, I am not sure of the process as I have not done it before. Up until today only had a crappy multi meter so today I bought a fluke.
So now I have to learn how to use the multi meter and how to test the board. Power on? power off? etc.

Arh sorry I was thinking you only had a Rottendog CPU board and hadn't thought about that you could have a Rottendog power board as well. So this is where my knowledge ends ...

To test the voltage at the TPs, have the power to the machine on and set your DMM to Voltage (I assume you DMM will auto sense AC & DC and is auto-ranging - your DMM will confirm this). Put the black test probe on the ground braid in the backboard and put your red test probe on the TP - this will then give you the voltage at that TP, which you then check against the specs of your Rottendog board.

To test the transistors, you do this with the power off however I'm not familiar with the transistors on your board to advise what readings you should expect - maybe Google it? Also a failed transistor would give different readings to the other transistors. So see which transistor is for the left flipper and see if it is different to the others.

Creating a tech thread might help in finding someone who is more knowledgeable on the Rottendog power driver board

#8427 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Not sure which part is the gear box, this is something I will have to investigate but if somebody has already talked about this in one of the 150+ pages of this thread please send me in the right direction.

T2 cannon gearbox (resized).pngT2 cannon gearbox (resized).png

The motor end of the gearbox is open, so you'll be able to see all the gears

#8430 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballBeast:

Hello,
I am new here... what a big topic this .Sorry I am from the Netherlands so my English isn't very good
I searched here for the "2 balls in Skull stuck". It happend also in my pinball.
But I think (not 100% sure, must test it a lot, but till now it looks good) I found a solution.
In the next picture you see the mechanism of the ball propper under the Skull.
I have replaced the switch for a new one, so you don't see cables. But maybe you doesn't have to replace it. Mine was a little buggy...
But what I did is the next thing. I turned the switch as far as possible. At this way the switch will be activated earlyer (sorry from Holland ).
So the skull popup under the skull will popup faster.
I think this helps a lot.
But I am not sure at this moment, can't wait to post it [quoted image]

Yep I can see the logic in that - although there is always a chance that you'll still get 2 balls in the skull. Do you have the foam in behind the skull? It's to stop the 2nd ball getting stuck in the back of the skull, the idea is that if you end up with 2 balls in the skull the machine will still work itself out

#8435 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Yeah I saw that, but I have something else connected there, looks like it is taking Power to feed into the video card.
There is also a mod connected with a plug over a plug...
If J118 is for ground only, then I need to figure out why the connected power for the video board there...
I hope this does not turn into a little nightmare.

Connector J116, J117 and J118 are all identical. You say that J118 is powering the video card (DMD controller??) - I suspect that someone has plugged J117 and J118 around the other way, or possibly moved one of the wires from J117 to J118 because the IDC connector wasn't making a good connection with the wire.

J118 (resized).JPGJ118 (resized).JPG
#8438 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Connectors are all 4 pin yes, but not identical in color. Here is my cabinet
[quoted image]

Sorry maybe I didn't explain myself well enough - the 3 headers are identical (ie Pin 2 is 12V, Pin3 is ground and Pin4 is 5V), so you could plug the DMD Controller power that is meant for J117 into J118 and PF connector (with the single black wire) into J117 and the system would work with no issue. Pin_Fandango indicated that on his machine J118 has a wire to the DMD, so one possibility is that the 2 connectors have simply been put on the wrong headers.

An alternative to that is a wire has been switched to the other IDC connector (in the case where the IDC connector is no longer firmly holding the wire), for example the gray wire going to J117-4 (5V to the DMD) could be moved to J118-4 which is unused so it's a quick fit rather that replacing the J117 IDC connector.

#8443 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

I think he also has to make sure he is not feeding power from the coin door interface board. Tracing these wires and identifying them will solve a lot if issues here. He needs to read pg.3-3 of the manual. Hopefully we are not overwhelming him.
Thanks for the Clarification Manny, even though it was 100% my fault.

To be honest, I'm not sure which issue this is relating to - I was just commenting on the J118 wiring. What are we trying to solve??

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Thanks for the Clarification Manny, even though it was 100% my fault.

No probs mate

#8445 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

It all started because I blew the left coil and I started poking around and found a few things that made me wonder...
What are we trying to solve as of late? well, first, organize the cables on this section we were discussing recently J118-116 etc.
I cleaned them up as per the picture uploaded recently, nonetheless, this game has has a few mods that are using taps to get power from here... I will get rid of some of these because I do not like the mess in there... Once I get this organized, I will add them later...
To avoid further confusion, the cannon was moving when pressing the flipper button AFTER the F112 fuse blew out, which is why I started looking at the wires and this is how I found these... Something wrong with the solenoids after F112 blew...
I put a new 5A fuse on there and the game starts, all solenoids work as they should now too...
I still have to install the new coil BUT I just want to make my connections are sound, as I am not entirely sure the coil failure was due to a mechanical or electrical issue (I am leaning towards a mechanical one because the solenoids behave normally now that f112 is IN).
All that say, I do not want to spend hours fixing the flipper to have a coil burn out within the hour.
Anyway I made a little video in case you guys wanted to see more... to much writing, I prefer video.

Ok here are a few things

1. F112 is the main solenoid fuse, while F101-F105 are the fuses sit further downstream for the various solenoid groups (F101 is the fuse for the left flipper). First thing to do is check that all your fuses are the correct style and amperage (manual Page 1-45) and check F101 hasn't blown. I suspect the left flipper drive transistor on the Rottendog Power Driver board is shorted and is the reason F112 blew. The reason that the replacement F112 fuse doesn't blow now is that either F101 is blown or you have removed the old coil. You will need to fix the power driver board before you can get this working again - otherwise you'll simply blow more fuses when you installed the new coil.

2. The original game had a plasma DMD that got it's power from the DMD controller, however you have a Pin2DMD after-market display which is taping the 5v and 12v lines at J116-J118. Given this game was previously working I expect it to be ok, however there can be issues if you tape too much power from these as the game was not designed for it. I would expect that this is where Pin2DMD recommend to take the power, so I would not go randomly seeking out other places to tape the power, however if you wanted to you could install a separate power supply to run the mods.

3. You mentioned that you are not sure where the wires from the powerboard go or what they are for. Page 3-7 onwards in the manual show you what the various board connections are wired to. Note that the manual is still useful even if you have Rottendog CPU and Power Driver boards - it's just the internals of the boards are potentially different however the connectors will all be used the same way as the original boards.

#8449 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I understand how it is connected vs how it was, I guess my question was. Does the graphic board not have enough juice to power the pin2dmd? seems weird and maybe they were just lazy at connecting things.

The Power Driver board takes the AC voltages from the transformer and converts them into the DC voltages required for the other boards, so the 5v and 12v power that resides on the DMD Controller actually comes from the Power Driver board. There are the exceptions to this, for example the DMD Controller board does have a high voltage section where it generates the specific high voltages for the original plasma DMD.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

If there is a Colour DMD that can use the OEM power supply that would be great.

The DMD Controller high voltage power section produces +62v, -113v & -125v this is because the original DMDs were plasma that require high voltages, where as the new DMDs are either LED or LCD and do not require these high voltages to run. Hence why they tap into the 5v and 12v power.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Can I just simply install the coil and start the game to test the transistor??? how fast should I expect the fuse to blow? or is it going to blow the coil first?

This all depends - did you check the fuses as per my suggestion? If they are not to spec you will fry another coil if you leave the power on for too long

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

2- Right. I like the idea of a separate power supply, would that feed off the transformer? I might look into this in the future as I wold like to keep the board clean.

A separate power supply would have it's own transformer

#8472 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Ok thank you very much for explaining that to me. Now it makes sense. I spent the last 2 nights trying to find a transistor that never existed...??
I asked rotten dog and they said --- transistor part # is 13N 10L, but never explained where it was or what the transistor did, so I basically tried to find it on the board... As you can tell, I have no idea what I am doing but I am trying my best to understand.
That said, the fuse for 101 was incorrect and that made 112 blow, I am wondering what else I do not know about might be blown... I hope everything is ok.
I had noticed the EOS switch for the left flipper was sparking whereas the right one was not, I tried adjusting it but it made no difference... perhaps that is where the problem was the entire time, a bad EOS switch?
So logically, 101 was the incorrect fuse, and therefore it did not blow---> coil overheated and melted and then blowing F112 which is the high voltage fuse for all the solenoids.
If I am lucky then, getting the right fuses in and getting a new proper coil in place, proivided the game starts and plays well then all is good? carry on?
Am I on the right track here?

I'll put my hand up for misleading you on that one - the fliptronics board (which has transistors) was introduced after T2 and I do know T2 flippers use the relay ... so sorry for that. At least I got that your flipper fuses were most likely wrong ... but again apologies.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Needs to be connected up to the coil.
Only way I could see F112 blew out is because the F101/F102 did not blow out because of them being 5amp fuses.

I can understand that one of the fuses would blow if the EOS switch didn't open while the flipper button was held in, however wouldn't letting the flipper button go break the circuit?

#8475 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

planning on remaking a complete J115 connector run from the board to the transformer.
Could someone please take a photo of your wiring at J115 (it is a 12 pin connector and it should have yellow/ yellow white wires).
The reason I ask is because I will convert my harness to the 'home run' version and I think the wiring suggested in the link does not match what I currently have and I suspect, with very good reasons, that mine is wired incorrectly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/burned-j115-gi-connector-replacement-on-wpc-bop
As per the link above, once converted to the home run version of this, the color combo should be:
Pin 1 - Yellow wire, white stripe
Pin 2 - White wire, brown stripe
Pin 3 - White wire, brown stripe
Pin 4 - White wire, orange stripe
Pin 5 - White wire, yellow stripe
Pin 6 - White wire, yellow stripe
Pin 7 - Orange wire
Pin 8 - Orange wire
Pin 9 - Key
Pin 10 - Green wire
Pin 11 - Brown Wire
Pin 12 - Brown wire
Where you see the same colour wire is where you should see a loop in the older version (yellow cables).
Mine currently has 2 loops in two different positions: #6 does not have a loop and #10 and #11 are looped.
Which does not correspond with the home run wiring in the link above: #4 should not have a loop and #11 and #12 are looped (when compared to my wiring). Of course there are extra loops that I did not mention because they are correct (matching the home run method).
I could not get a good picture but I counted my positions and compared 3 times.
Please could someone confirm your wiring at F115? need to see where the loops are in a T2 game at this connection.
I do not want to pull mine off because I am in the process of testing something else and do not want to break this connection, but it is absolutely horrific to look at. I apologize before hand:
[quoted image]
Please correct me if I am wrong but according to my understanding of the schematics even though (if I do) I have the loops in the wrong place, it still works because it is all for circuits using the same voltages (but I might be wrong because I literally just learned how to read these).
Thanks!

As johnwartjr explains there was 2 versions of the WPC secondary cable - T2 (which was manufactured in 1991) used the earlier version while games manufactured at least as earlier as 1992 used the revised WPC secondary cable (what John refers to a home-run, as the J115 connected pins all have wires running back the transformer connector).

The reason the J115 connector is wired different is that the 9 pin connector at the other end of the wires (that connects into the transform) is wired different (and has additional wires running between the connectors). You can't simply change one end and hence why showing photos of the early WPC secondary cable isn't going to be of any help if you intend on creating the revised "home-run" WPC secondary cable.

If you are going to make your own "home-run" secondary cable I suggest that you follow John's wiring exactly!!! Otherwise you risk blowing shit up and possibly worse - if you are in any doubt I would strongly suggest buying a replacement cable.

#8499 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Do you guys know if anybody is refurbishing the Gun Handle? Mine has been repainted by the previous owner but the metal is scratched after many years.
I have seen some old posts of someone here doing this work, but I tried to find it again and could not. It is somewhere there in 170 pages.
But wondering if you guys knew?

Chris sc93cobra offers a T2 trigger exchange - send him your existing trigger handle and he'll send back the same T2 trigger version (there are 2 versions) already chromed

https://pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/terminator-2-t2-gun

#8515 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

Currently, in the one I have, the locking bar lever slides in between the 2 coin mechanisms when locked as they are spaced out to each side of the door

That's not correct - the lockdown lever should be to the right of the coin door opening when locked (well away from any of the coin mechs). While you have the 2 coin entry version, other parts of the world have 3 coin mechs in that door so definitely something wrong with your receiver.

Switching to the later DBV model door will not solve this issue and possibly will be worse for where the lever is

#8517 3 years ago
Quoted from Eddie:

I know they are daisy chained but I for the life of me cant understand where the White /Yellow wire from the Gun trigger is connected to the playfield or from where it is daisy chained.

No, the PF and cabinet switches have their own daisy chains.

You need to check J212-8

T2 switch connections (resized).JPGT2 switch connections (resized).JPG
#8530 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

is there any value in keeping the old/early williams door? it is in ok shape but some genius decided to spray painted it grey... I guess I could sand blast it and re paint black...

That is the original coin door - it looks in good shape and you could simply repaint it. You don't necessarily need to sand blast the door, you could use a paint stripper or simply sand back the door (either by hand or with a wheel on a drill). The DBV coin door that you are thinking about purchasing was never originally on T2.

This clip shows how you can clean up a coin door and recreate the speckled paint that the original coin doors have

#8531 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

thanks, weird I did not see it last night.

WPC89 CPU board (resized).JPGWPC89 CPU board (resized).JPG
#8539 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

further to the cabinet switches, I need a hand identifying a 3rd cable in both my cabinet switches.
Each switch is molex-ed, and there are 2 cables connected to it, however, there is a 3rd cable coming from the box (J110), that is not connected to the them.
The cables not connected are: Black/Blue and Black/yellow for left and right flipper respectively.
Do you guys know what these are and why are not being used?
I can't find this info in the manual, partly surely my fault as I am still not very good with this.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

So those black wires go into positions 8-9 at J110, according to the schematic, the trace leads to to J109 positions 1-2... I look in my game and there are no cables coming out of J109 positions 1-2...
I presume this wiring is there for games that require more than 2 flippers? or is there something missing in my game?

They were there for the upper flippers so they are not used - the interboard wiring shows what the connections are intended for

T2 Flipper connections (resized).JPGT2 Flipper connections (resized).JPG
#8542 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

thanks Manny for validating that for me and pointing me in the right direction.
Would it be acceptable to remove the wire since it is not needed?

Why? This is how it came out of the factory and I personally wouldn't change it - then again it is your machine and you can do whatever you want with it.

#8543 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

another question please Manny65, do you know if the capacitor at the cabinet switch (not the Eos) has polarity? I finished the left side but I could not make out what kind of capacitor it is, I presume it is a ceramic capacitor and therefore it has no polarity.
correct?
[quoted image]

It's a .1 uf 500 volts ceramic disc capacitor - ceramic capacitors has no polarity

Google is your friend

#8546 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

manny65 I decided to install new caps at the cab switches since I am rebuilding the flippers... I was placing an order with Mouser as I needed some connectors and this is the only one they had, I believe this matches the specs of what is in there... I was not sure but I ordered it anyways:
Will this work? I did some research before pulling the trigger and this is the closest I got, my goal was to get a 0.1uf 500v ceramic disc capacitor and got this:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/594-S104Z93Z5VL83L0R/
I compared it to the one sold at Marcos and GPE, and it seems like it matches MOST of the specs posted on GPE which are:
Part Number CCD-0.1uF-500V-P9.5
Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, 0.1uF, 500VType: Z5V
Tolerance: +80%/-20%
Lead Spacing: 9.5mm
Lead Length: Full Length
Body Diameter: 15mm
Manufacturer: UniOhm
am I good or did I order the wrong thing?

Looks good but I'm no expert ...

#8555 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Tried both of these things and didn't work.
Does everyone's gate swing both ways (sorry to get personal, haha)? I am thinking that might be the problem?

LOL no that's a one way gate and this is probably your issue

#8556 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

the switch there is supposed to be shaped as an S (sorta), not straight like you have there...

It's supposed to be a straight switch actuator based on the manual diagram and part number 5647-12693-31

T2 switch (resized).JPGT2 switch (resized).JPG
#8558 3 years ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Does everyone's gate swing both ways (sorry to get personal, haha)? I am thinking that might be the problem?

Quoted from daveddd14:

Yep, I found post 4850 which explains the differences which is why I deleted the second post. Time to tear is back apart again and see if I put the wrong one back in its place or if I can steal one from another spot. I hate to pay another $20, plus shipping, plus wait to get it corrected.

Below is what the gate looks like - the leg of the wire on the left side (shown with the red arrow) stops the gate swinging the other way and consequently stops the ball bouncing back out like you are experiencing. If you gate swings both ways, then the wire must be broken - you could buy some wire make a replacement one

T2 skull gate (resized).JPGT2 skull gate (resized).JPG
1 week later
#8569 3 years ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Hello to all count me in,
Im going to restore a T2 in the next weeks, ive got one with a nice playfield, and is working almost 100% (have some bulbs and flashers off) not a big deal i guess.
Where you can find best skull version? Inside Europe if possible.
I have in the buy list...
T2 Skull
T2 Hunter Ship
Realistic LED Eyes for T2 Pinball
Terminator 2 Target Decal
Terminator 2 Slingshot Set
Terminator 2 Plastic 31-50013-16
Terminator 2 Plastic 31-50013-19
Terminator 2 Plastics 31-1-50013-14_15
Terminator 2 Hunter Ship Wire
Terminator 2 starpost set
New Set of Rubbers Transparent
New Leg Levers
Playfield Protector
Cabinet Leg Protector SET (Black Color)
What more is a must have on this machine?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You should be able to get all your parts in Europe pretty easily from the major pinball suppliers over there - there's lot of love for T2's in Germany

Buthamburg (Germany) makes licensed T2 plastic sets (as well as cabinet decals and PFs) and this will mean they'll all match - send Peter a PM

2 weeks later
#8578 2 years ago
Quoted from mikespins:

Hey all. I just replaced the plunger coil and now the ball is hitting the 2nd from bottom target below the ship instead of the middle target when you launch. Is this normal because it's a newer and stronger coil or is it not aligned or something? I purchased the entire setup with brackets, not just the coil. Can anyone provide any insight? Thanks.

All games vary a bit and sometimes you'll get these variations when rebuilding coils and mechs. Not all T2's will hit the middle target from the ball launch - as long as it's consistent then it doesn't matter, you just need to adjust your timing on when to pull the trigger

#8587 2 years ago
Quoted from mikespins:

So I was able to "fix" it. Basically the new coil is too strong, so I had to angle it up a bit so it makes contact with the ball more toward the top, thus launching it a little slower. It hits the 3rd target every time now.

Good to hear you got it sorted.

Another thing that can have a bearing on this is if you've swapped out the rubbers for after-market versions that have a slightly different thickness, as the shooter lane ball guide can be in a marginally different position. This is where you can adjust the trajectory as jibmums had mentioned

T2 ball launch exit (resized).jpgT2 ball launch exit (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#8599 2 years ago
Quoted from jimlund:

Does anyone have a diagram or picture showing the correct placement of the two wedge shaped plastics? I’ve looked through the gallery images and see them placed in a number of different locations.[quoted image]

They are to avoid ball hangs and were most likely created after the manual was printed so it doesn't show them. There are actually 3 triangular plastics - jibmums shows the placement of the 2 you typically find on machines ... the third one is a bit more of a mystery where it was planned for (I remember looking into this some time ago but can't recall what I worked out ... old age kicking in)

#8609 2 years ago
Quoted from ravve:

Anyone knows what part nr this plastic has? It seems to be the exact same this as the one under it, which os not correct according to some info I found, but not sure.

Also note that the 2 plastics are different

#8614 2 years ago
Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

1 - Where I can get, or how do I identify these red plastic pieces at the top of the playfield above the pop numbers? One is missing and a couple others are broken. I am located in Aus but happy to order internationally if i have to.

Download the manual and parts list from ipdb.org - this will help you identify the part numbers
In Aust you'll get parts from RTBB, Pinball Spare Parts Australia (PSPA) and Mr Pinball. If they don't have the parts available, use https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0 to find what suppliers around the world have the part number you're after

Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

2 - what is everyones opinion for a solution on the terminator eye on the playfield as seen in picture? Is it as easy as cutting a circle out of black sticker and replacing?

The playfield insert are lifting and the ball is chipping the edge of the insert and the artwork off the insert. For a quick fix, you could put a black cutout over the eyes and then lay down a larger piece of mylar to protect the insert edges - however this won't address the inserts being raised and the potential ball deflection it may cause. To do it properly you'll need to at doing or getting the playfield restored.

Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

3 - There is what looks to be a main earth wire going to this spot where the lock is meant to be at the top of the backbox.. is that right or is something here amiss? I will be getting a replacement clip to lock the translite in.

The metal plate and lock for the translite are earthed.

Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

4 - when the ball is returning from the left ramp to the left flipper, the ball bounces off a rubber stopper at the bottom and back up the rail, before falling in to the return lane. Is there a way to stop this? The right one returns as I expect where the left does this bounce.

Might just need to slightly adjust the angle of the steel plate with the rubber stopper attached. Check the rubber hasn't gone hard and causing more bounce back.

Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

4 - is the skill shot aim variable in anyway? As you always seem to be aiming for the same target

No but every successful direct hit during a game will cause the lights to scroll faster.

Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

5 - finally what is your opinion on modding or updating this machine? is it best to leave original incandescent lighting and original DMD as it is all currently working fine? Although the lights do feel a little dull, I don't want to ruin the collectors aspect that comes with owning such an item.

Whether you have it as a players machine, decide to restore to original condition or modify to your liking is really up to you and how much money you're prepared to spend - everybody is different and likes different things. Switching out the incandescents for LEDs is pretty standard thing to do

#8617 2 years ago
Quoted from Ornate_Lemon:

Thanks for your detailed reply!
I had actually already consulted the T2 parts manual but I could not identify these red light covers in there.
I have narrowed the search to part # 03-8205-9 which is a single sided red cover, which seems to be the same as each of the light covers on my machine, however some shops also have it listed as # 03-8204-9 which is a double sided cover.
As mine seem to be broken, can anyone confirm what the correct original covers are for T2? Are all these covers single sided 03-8205-9 from factory or a mix of both?

Who is the go to person/company in Aus, or more specifically Melbourne to look at getting the playfield restored?
Thanks again!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Grab the Part List from https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524 and then search the part numbers - what you'll find is that T2 uses 2 single and 2 double sided parts. The single sided are used on the outer posts, while the double sided are used on the 2 inner posts. You may find that suppliers don't have the single sided version, but you could get a doubled sided one and cut one of the sides off - this way all will be identical colouring etc

T2 Rollover Covers (resized).JPGT2 Rollover Covers (resized).JPG

The 2 guys I know of, are Tim Reid at http://hotroddedpins.com/ or Scott Seedsman at https://www.facebook.com/aimpinballservices/

#8625 2 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Last issue: sometimes when I shoot the ball into skull, a ball gets stuck behind up into skull. I don't know if it's the speed and timing, but wonder what folks have done to manage ball locks or balls getting stuck in or around the skull.
Thanks.

B/W released a service bulletin for this - their answer was to install a large foam block (soft) into the cavity to stop the ball from getting in there

#8632 2 years ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Okay guys, I have recently picked up a T2, after getting it home I realized it’s needs some work. I’ve decided to swap out the coin door, it’s got a European door, I was able to acquire a new US door but I’m noticing the new door seems to be missing a bracket. Specifically the spot that holds the switch/ sensor that tells the pin whether the door is open or closed.
On the US T2 was the switch on the pin versus the door? Hopefully I didn’t confuse everybody with the description, help is always appreciated.
Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]

The Entropy 2 slot coin door was the default US coin door for the T2 - as seen on the promo video and flyers. This coin door was used in Sys11 and early WPC machines and had the coin door switch mounted in the door frame.

The version you have is the 3 slot variant that was used for some foreign countries.

#8635 2 years ago
Quoted from ksdry:

What have I got myself into? Picked up 2 T2's that were heavily routed and put up wet. looks like they were bush fixed till they stopped working. Slingshot rubbers where cut and put back together by wrapping with wire, guess they couldn't be bothered to take the plastic off to replace them. The one should really be parts but the harness isn't chopped so I'm going to rebuild both.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice pickup - the first one looks alright (no flipper drag marks or chipping around the inserts) and should clean up nicely. The second one needs more work but you've got most of it there from the pics (more than one of my T2 projects) - the boards in the backbox will be easy to replace, what's the under side of the PF like - are there any missing mechs?

2 weeks later
#8648 2 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Was playing T2 last night... game felt a little strange like a mod was running long. Eventually realized after a drain that a ball was stuck and the ball search couldn't find it.
Found the ball here. First time it has been stuck there in 15 years.[quoted image]

Williams issued a Service Bulletin for this issue, where they installed a large soft foam block in the skull cavity to stop balls getting accidentally lodged in there. https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_33.pdf

#8650 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

Hey guys I have a project t2 I’m just kind of starting. I was just looking around and found a small coil hanging. I think it’s for the single drop target possibly the reset part of the mechanism. Can anyone get me pictures of their mechanism to show me how it goes back together or what I need to get it to mount back in there. Not sure if these pics help at all. I can’t see how the coil is held in place there
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The small coil is held in place by a screw and washer - you should be able to slide the coil into place and then put the screw in from underneath the bracket (screws into the coil core). Possibly you'll find the screw & washer in the bottom of the cabinet. The 2nd pic shows how the actuator arm is positioned at rest and the 3rd pic is with the actuator arm pulled down (this is what the coil does) - note you shouldn't need to change/adjust as I believe the screw has simply come undone and let the coil fall out.

T2 - Drop Target small coil1 (resized).jpgT2 - Drop Target small coil1 (resized).jpgT2 - Drop Target small coil3 (resized).jpgT2 - Drop Target small coil3 (resized).jpgT2 - Drop Target small coil4 (resized).jpgT2 - Drop Target small coil4 (resized).jpg
#8651 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

Hey guys I have a project t2 I’m just kind of starting. I was just looking around and found a small coil hanging. I think it’s for the single drop target possibly the reset part of the mechanism. Can anyone get me pictures of their mechanism to show me how it goes back together or what I need to get it to mount back in there. Not sure if these pics help at all. I can’t see how the coil is held in place there
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you are missing the screw & washer and need to replace them, note that they are brass to magnetically isolate the bracket from the coil core. Here are the part numbers if you need to replace them and if you are in the US then Marco has them all in stock
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Edit: I didn't see the lock washer used on mine (although I didn't pull it apart), so it might not have been used

1 week later
#8653 2 years ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Hi all; I’ve got a terminator missing the Playfield plastics on the left side of the head (colored Playfield plastic to the left of the head with a piece of clear plastic stacked over it)
I need to order those two plastics and the appropriate stand offs and screws. Anyone have detailed pictures of that area or the list of parts for the standoffs and screws?

Check out this documented teardown http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

Also the Parts List from IPDB will given you all the specific part numbers that are used - look at the components that make up A-14933 "skull plfd plastic assy"

And if you are replacing 31-1-50013-16 (plastic on the left side of the skull) then you should consider replacing both the left & right plastics (ie 31-1-50013-16 & 31-1-50013-19) as a set as the colour of the repro plastics often vary from the original.

1 month later
#8667 2 years ago
Quoted from Philly76:

Can someone, ANYONE, please tell me how the feet on the legs should be set on this game? I had them all flat but the play seemed slow so I raised the back and it drains like a MF now.

Typically set the PF angle to 6.5 degree and then adjust if required. Here's the instructions from the manual

T2 setup (resized).JPGT2 setup (resized).JPG
#8672 2 years ago
Quoted from zekeazoid:

Hey guys, more frequently I'm getting a kind of a toilet bowl affect when shooting the skull. (Note the wear) It rolls around for a few seconds before finally sitting to lock. Would a cliffy's stop this from happening, make it more difficult to lock? Anyone have it installed?
[quoted image]

It's a typical wear spot because the ball is shot up there with speed and can catch the rear edge of the VUK - if you are going to install a cliffy you'll need to fill the wear hole first. The ball can bounce and roll around before settling in VUK but it's not an issue that needs to be fixed.

Looking at your picture, the VUK cap (where the ball settles before being fired up to the load the cannon) is missing or odd looking. See the black cap (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8053) in the below pic and a wonder if that is contributing to what you are seeing

T2 VUK cap (resized).JPGT2 VUK cap (resized).JPG
#8674 2 years ago
Quoted from zekeazoid:

So that's what this is! The cap has been off and inside the cabinet since I bought the machine years ago and I've never known, probably because I've never had an issue loading the cannon. How difficult is it to replace the assembly? And since I'm there I've been thinking about replacing the drop target so I can light it up red... hard to justify because if it ain't broke don't fix it. [quoted image][quoted image]

The VUK and drop target are different assemblies.

You'll need to pull out the VUK and checkout the plunger to see if it or anything else needs to be replaced, or has the dowel pin that holds the cap on simply broken. Page 2-22 of the manual shows the assembly and parts

#8676 2 years ago
Quoted from zekeazoid:

Oh for sure, I meant since I'm in that same vicinity might as well.

I can already tell that the plunger is broken, the tip is still inside the cap stem above the pin, so I'll just order a new assembly...and I will have that manual handy as I go... thankyou!!

You don't need to replace the whole assembly - more than likely there is nothing wrong with the assembly bracket, coil, cap ...

Also you might struggle to find anyone selling an entire assembly

1 month later
#8694 2 years ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to replace the missing wire guide to the left of the red line shown.
I think its #12-6466-45. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6466-45
Thanks.
[quoted image]

You can make your own from piano wire - search Marco's for "piano" will show you various thicknesses they have available. Get one the same thickness as the other wire guides on your machine

1 week later
#8703 2 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Anyone know where to buy new T2 apron decals in the US?
[quoted image]

https://treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/terminator-2/terminator-2.htm although is doesn't seem to include the cannon decal included

3 weeks later
#8714 2 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. Quick question. I changed the batteries on my T2 for the first time since I picked it up a few years ago. For some reason, now whenever I turn on the machine, it says "Factory Settings Restored" every time and "Date and Time Not Set" etc... I set the date and time, save it, turn on free play mode, save it etc, but every time I turn the machine off and on again, it's like it never happened and all the settings are erased. The machine is also plugged in FYI. I'm sure it's just some dumb small thing, but any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. G

If it was all working before hand and you simply worked swapped the batteries, then I'd first check the voltage of your 3 new batteries - sounds like one or all of them is dead or doesn't have enough voltage (each battery is 1.5V). As a side note, if you swap the batteries while the game is turned on, you won't lose your settings or high scores.

3 weeks later
#8734 2 years ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Freshly minted T2 member.
Picked up a very nice T2 from a guy who had done some pretty serious switch matrix wire cutting. I've managed to get it all back together with one strange exception.
Green/Orange ticked into j206 goes to the playfield. Easy enough. But there is another green/orange coming from the playfield with no apparent place to connect. Havent dug in too deep yet on the why's, but does anyone have an idea of why there are 2 and where the one from the coin interface goes?
Thanks guys.

My machine only has the one - I wonder if your wire had a break in it and an op has ran a second wire to replace the original (but left the original wire in the loom)? I'd trace both wires to see whether they are connecting to the same column switches

I only have a green/red and green/brown on the coin door interface which is used for the cabinet matrix switches (see below)

T2 coin door interface (resized).JPGT2 coin door interface (resized).JPGT2 switch matrix2 (resized).JPGT2 switch matrix2 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#8737 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

this is one of my weak points reading these schematics, the coin door schematic confuses me.
Can someone explain the relationship and connection in between J1 -> J6 -> J3, trying to wrap my head around the schematic.
If someone can explain how the columns that Manny pointed out are wired into the game, that would be very helpful.
When I read the schematic, I can see there are cables coming from CPU J212 and connect to J1 into the coin door, but I am confused as to what happens after this point and how this connection intertwines with the other connectors.
Any tips that might help me understand this portion better? I will be soon building a coin door board and I am sure some of these questions will answer themselves, but it is always good to have a second opinion.

I believe the reason B/W used a coin door interface board was because they supported various coin doors (based on specific country requirements) - they used doors from Entropy and Coin Control, and both suppliers made various coin door models with 1 to 3 coin slots and some doors supported dollar bill validators (DBV). Hence the coin door interface board allowed B/W to use a standard wiring loom in the cabinet and simplified manufacturing. This is why alot of the connections on the interface board are simply being passed through, as it allowed B/W to plug in which coin door was required (dependent upon which country etc)

1 month later
#8785 2 years ago
Quoted from drwicket:

Need some help. My gun all of a sudden isn’t firing. Went through everything and the switch is good. The gun kicker solenoid isn’t firing off in the test. Where should I look first?

Your cannon solenoid should fire in test mode regardless of the switches (ie the cannon opto or the cannon positional home and at mark switches that are all used during the game). I'd begin by checking you have 50V at the coil and if you do have power at the coil try shorting the transistor to see if the coil fires. Let us know what you find

#8791 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Anyone have a solution as to why I can only enter 2 initials for a high score?

I've not seen this before but interesting that 4 other Pinsiders have experienced this as well on a T2 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cant-enter-three-initials-for-a-high-score

Have you confirmed that backspace allows you to enter 3 initials (ie what the others experienced)? An what f/w version are you on?

#8793 2 years ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Fuse 501 blows on me as soon as I power up. Presuming one of the large cap’s shorted?
(On the audio board)
Other ideas?
And what exactly goes thru this? I can’t find schematics and I have all sounds, effects, etc.
I don’t know what I’m missing with that blown? Game seems to play fine.

Here's the WPC Schematics (1993) PDF - the Audio board used in the T2 is on page 14 & 15. As per Pinwiki just be aware that R23 & R24 varied depending upon the pre-DCS game - on T2 they should be 150K (the schematic shows them as 120K) and also R22 & R25 should be 120K (the schematic shows them as 150K)

WPC Schematic Manual 1993.pdfWPC Schematic Manual 1993.pdf

#8797 2 years ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Confirmed I can backspace to enter all three initials. Question when entering initials can you use the trigger to advance to the next initial?

Think you'd have to select " " (ie the space character) and then pull the trigger to get it to move to the next initial.

Did you check how the start button is wired, as per EStroh post?

#8809 2 years ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Turns out this one was fuse 116. Although it was getting the 5v it was not getting the 12v. Fuse “looked” good. With the schematics (much appreciated) I could trace back to TP1. And fuse 116. Sure enough bad. Replaced and light kit works fine
Now on to my Fuse 501 issue.

Good to hear you solved it.

You indicated that J116-118 gets power and works, however I'm guessing this was just because the game had no issues? The 12V Unreg power is rarely used in T2 so having a blown F116 could easily go unnoticed. The Babcock plasma display uses 12V but the Cherry display doesn't - so guessing you either have a Cherry display (or are using a ColorDMD with a separate power supply). The 12V also runs down to the coin door interface board but isn't used (there's not even headers on my J4 or J5 where the 12V would be tapped from).

#8818 2 years ago
Quoted from humanoid:

Just joined the club a week ago and having a blast. One questions, though:
Under 'Feature Adjustments', what does the setting 'DRP TRGT MULTI' do exactly? It isn't in the manual, so it must have been added in a later revision of the software.

Feature Adjustment #21 DRPTRGT DWN MLTI

If set to OFF (default) then after getting Jackpot (see below Multiball/Jackpot rules) to go for Super Jackpot you need to shoot the skull twice, once to knock down the drop target and the second to load the cannon. If set to ON then the drop target will stay down, so you only need to shoot the skull once in order to load the cannon for Super Jackpot.

A full set of the rules can be found at http://www.pinball.org/rules/terminator2.html

MULTI-BALL

Shoot and knock down the drop target, then shoot the ball into the ball popper, the ball popper will fire the ball to load the cannon. When the cannon is loaded with a ball, the cannon swings out from its "Home" position. Fire Cannon by pulling trigger on gun grip when the cannon passes the lit white stand up target. Hitting lit target scores Multi-ball.

When Multi-ball is scored (by hitting lit target with an accurate cannon shot), two balls are shot out onto the playfield automatically. For a short duration "Autofire" will be on.

JACKPOT and SUPER JACKPOT

During Multi-Ball, the object of the game is to achieve Jackpot and SUPER Jackpot, (50,000 points). The player must load the cannon by shooting a ball into the ball popper hole, behind the drop target. At this point the player is guaranteed an opportunity to shoot for a 1X Jackpot with the moving cannon, but the cannon will NOT be loaded until the other balls are drained or locked in the lock holes. If the player can manage to get another ball into one of the remaining two lock holes he will be guaranteed a 2X Jackpot shot. If all three balls are locked the cannon will load for a 3X Jackpot shot. Maximum points for Jackpot 1X, 2X, and 3X is 10, 20, and 30 million respectively.

Regardless of the number of balls locked, the player must have 1 ball in the ball popper to qualify for a Jackpot. When the other 2 balls are either locked or drained, the game says "Get the Jackpot" the ball popper then loads the cannon and the cannon swings out to shoot at the targets. If the player shoots a lit target, then the player receives a 1X, 2X, or 3X Jackpot depending on the number of locked balls as explained above.

If the player hits a 2X or 3X Jackpot, he may then shoot for the SUPER Jackpot. While at least 2 balls are in play, the player must reload the cannon with one of the balls in play. The game then says "Get the Super Jackpot" and the ball is popped to load the cannon. During the firing of the cannon for SUPER Jackpot the lit target is no longer a stationary target. It is moving up and down while the cannon is also in motion. It's a very tough shot but well worth mastering for the 50 million points received for a direct hit. If you managed to keep the other ball(s) in play you may repeat this last step for multiple SUPER Jackpots.

#8825 2 years ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Just tuning up my T2. I love this game!!!!
I have a issue that is random. Some times the cannon target lights don’t light up. I can usually guess which ones I need to hit. When I miss it will light up quickly so I know for next time.
Any idea on why these lights would occasionally work? I am checking the connections again.
Thanks in advance. John
Oh and these attached pic were left over from the flipper rebuild. I am guessing they are not needed.
[quoted image]

Quoted from drwicket:

Let me know what you find out in the cannon lights. Mine does the same thing. I’ll get them all working when I’m going through the tests. I lower the playfield and then get a game going and almost always one of them refuses to light up.

From a quick google search it's due to solder cracking on the targets (as they take a lot of punishment from the cannon) or a poor connection on one of the connectors. Let us know what you find

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-judgment-day-cannon-target-lights-dont-light
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-t2-target-lights-not-working-for-cannon-only

#8831 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Most of the Terminator's have wrong mounted bracket in the area where the Hunter Killer Ship is located.
As you can see on the picture below - this is WRONG!
The bended part must be placed behind the targets, so turn the bracket upside down.
[quoted image]

A bit of trivia and in case someone has an early production version - B/W originally made a flat bracket for above the white cannon targets, this was then replaced with the bent version (I'm not sure whether this was to stop a ball being wedged into the back of the targets from behind or if it was to stop the standup targets from being bent back due to the force of the cannon).

Here is a pic of both versions

T2 white target top bracket 1 (resized).jpgT2 white target top bracket 1 (resized).jpg
#8834 2 years ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Thanks so much it didn’t have them. Any way you can snap some photos of where the leads go? I definitely will add them and mine had the skinny little spring so I didn’t use the big ones.
Thanks again!!
John

As per eyeamred2u pic the capacitor goes across the EOS switch - here's the schematics from Section 3 of the manual as a reference

T2 Flipper Circuit (resized).jpgT2 Flipper Circuit (resized).jpg
1 week later
#8848 2 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

T2 back in my collection after a decade… I need some assistance with the gun not being able to hit the lowest target. Anyone know how to make the gun advance/aim toward the lowest target?
As you can see from my kitchen spoon reference photo I can only hit the second lowest target.
[quoted image]

Welcome back!

The amount of travel in the cannon is mechanical and not related to the switches/electronics. There are 3 arms in the linkage that determines the travel - the top arrow is the arm driven by the motor (always rotates counter-clockwise), the middle arrow is the linkage that turns the movement into back & forth, while the bottom arrow points to the arm on the cannon shaft (converting the linear motion back into a rotation but maintains the back & forth due to the small angular movement). I suspect that the linkage is either loose or the holes in the linkage arm are worn - in test mode move the cannon to it's lowest point (as you did in your pic) and then with your hand see how much slop/play is in the linkage by moving the cannon. I have a fair bit of play in my linkage - the motor will turn the cannon to the lowest target but then I can move the cannon further to it points to the post below the bottom target. Do you have more play in your linkage?

Alternatively has someone replaced a linkage arm and maybe the replacement is marginally shorter and hence reducing the stroke?

T2 cannon - gearbox linkage (resized).jpgT2 cannon - gearbox linkage (resized).jpg
#8851 2 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Thanks! And thanks for the guidance. I had looked over the linkage quite a bit, and had tried adjusting it a little. There’s a Allen key set screw, but it doesn’t appear to do anything other than lock a portion of the linkage to the shaft. The gun runs a bit sluggish, so I’ll likely pull it for a complete overhaul and lube.

When the cannon swings home, does it go past "home" at all? If so then you'd loosen the set screw and realign the cannon and this would then make the cannon swing further down the targets, but I've not seen anyone ever talk about this set screw coming loose.

Still curious has to how much play you have in the linkage

1 month later
#8890 2 years ago
Quoted from Curt7284:

Well I recently acquired a T2 and the playfield has seen better days, much better days. I would love to find a playfield in decent shape if possible to swap. Doesn’t need to be perfection. Anyone have anything they would part with? I’ve debated sanding and overlay, but I really want to do it right.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You could replace it with a brand new PF http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-36-50013&Category_Code=PF

1 week later
#8906 2 years ago
Quoted from Gnassel:

Currently, I'm still doing some fine tuning. Optimizing the timing. My wife already thinks I'm crazy when I change the program again after the 2nd ball.
And I'm still coming up with more ideas that I'd like to implement. A little more random chance can come into play. So sometimes something can happen that we don't expect.
Example:
As soon as the gun moves, the eyes should go back and forth between the gun and the target. Isn't that what we do? Aiming?
By chance, he could then also pinch his eyes shut? Because he is afraid to miss the target?
And if the target is not hit, he could look a little to the right, offended.
So there are still plenty of ideas.
Sell it?
Maybe, depends on whether there is a demand. But then everything should be perfect. Currently still need to connect a few alligator clips here. Better would be reasonable connectors.
It is also a fiddly job to solder the LEDs for the eyes. Maybe I can inspire my wife, she is younger and still see well.

Definitely interested.

Would it fit a Loot Crate Terminator skull or just the original skull?

#8909 2 years ago
Quoted from Gnassel:

I have installed 5 LEDs in a T10 socket. Here 3 cables go out the side. The normal electrical connections are not used. So the rest could stay as it is. Just replace the lamps with these LEDs. The cables then go to a board with a processor, which then controls the eyes depending on the 7 upper flasher.[quoted image]

Great solution - very easy to add (and remove) the mod to the existing platform

1 week later
#8923 2 years ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Is there a post or process for setting the gun to find the home position? My gun will randomly just start swing back and forth and I have seen in test mode, gun can not locate home?

In test mode, move the cannon to where it lines up with the wireform from the skull. Then lift the PF and adjust the home switch (pictured below) such that it is closed.
T2 cannon switches (resized).jpgT2 cannon switches (resized).jpg

Quoted from JohnTTwo:

oh and I am going to look into the skull ball sensor when the ball gets locked in the skull sometimes it does not regrister but when the machine does a ball search it finds it and I get to "load the cannon" and shoot.

Just need to adjust the switch (#9 in the diagram)

T2 VUK (resized).jpgT2 VUK (resized).jpg

#8926 2 years ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Im still having an issue with sometimes when plunging for the skill shot and the skill shot is made, it starts multiball. I have cleaned and adjusted the plunger like had been seen in a previous post but that has not worked for me.
It happens once every few games. Anyone have a fix?
Thanks

I think you said previously that the CPU board doesn't have any battery damage. It is a weird issue, yet Navystan had a similar problem - I'd probably go back to basics and go into edge switch test mode, take a pic of which switches are currently closed, then check each and every switch watching the matrix display on the DMD for multiple switch activation. Also try bumping the PF and nudging the machine to see if any switches are being triggered.

If nothing has come to light, take the glass off and play some games - when the issue occurs, grab the balls as they are being shot out and then immediately go into edge switch test mode and check what switches are closed (compare this to the pic that you took in the above tests). Let us know how you get on

#8932 2 years ago
Quoted from ravve:

Thanks, I will go ahead and install the protector as it is right now, cross my fingers that I will not regret it
It is only 0.5mm thick (PETG/VIVAK) so I hope it don´t affect too much. Someone above wrote that the ball will jump when going from shooter lane to pf, but I really hope that will not be the case due to only 0.5mm thickness.

If the plunger is wired up, you could go in solenoid test and test plunging the ball now

#8936 2 years ago
Quoted from jcar302:

If any of you guys bought an insert decal set and did not use the hot dog shaped "auto fire ball rescue" decal (by the flippers) i'd buy it. I'd prefer not buy an entire set to just get one decal. Not sure if that one is normally worn on everyone's machine or not.

While you might get lucky, that is a common wear area

1 week later
#8952 2 years ago
Quoted from richierich85:

Ok I have done switch and coil tests all working fine. ok so when I'm in a game with the glass off and I roll the ball into the lane the kickback coil fires so it does recognise and fire, but what's so so weird when I install the glass back and have a game and the ball drains to left lane the, with the kickback light lite it does not fire. I take this that normal ball game speed is too fast for switch to recognise the ball the kickback function before it hits the ball through. Any thoughts?? the game is level and at the right pitch...

So while the switch is working, the ball is not always triggering the switch. Try adjusting the wire actuator to try to get a more consistent triggering regardless of the ball speed or position

#8962 2 years ago
Quoted from robm:

Are you referring to this post, or a different one? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/179#post-6815354
The post above explains the switches, however my issue is slop/movement in the cannon itself and appears unrelated to switches - i've adjusted the switches and the problem remains. If there is an older post about movement in the cannon and a fix, that would be great. I am concerned it may be a gearbox issue

Hey Rob - you want to double check that you don't have too much play between the under PF mech and the above PF cannon (there will always be a small amount). Raise the PF and with your left hand hold the linkage arm pointed to with the red arrow (this will remove any play that could come from the gearbox or the linkages), then with you other hand rotate back and forth the cannon. Looking between the gearbox and PF, you'll see a very small amount of the male drive shaft (that comes back through the gearbox) which is held still by you left hand but the female shaft from the cannon (has the circlip on it) will have a bit of play. If the slot in the cannon shaft (or the T-piece on the gearbox shaft) is worn you could be getting more play here and causing your issue. Take a look at the below pics - you'll get what I mean. If of course there isn't that much movement but when you stop holding the drive linkage with you left hand, and the amount of play significantly increases then the issue is with either the gearbox and/or the linkage arms (that you can see in the first pic). To inspect the drive shaft coupling, pull the circlip off the cannon shaft and you'll be able to lift the cannon off from above the PF

T2 cannon gearbox1 (resized).jpgT2 cannon gearbox1 (resized).jpgT2 cannon - gearbox shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - gearbox shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - cannon shaft (resized).jpgT2 cannon - cannon shaft (resized).jpg

#8965 2 years ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Thanks for this! I had no idea. I cant seem to find those metal plates that go on each side of the ramp. Any idea what part they are?

The Skynet ramp protectors you can get from Cliffy http://www.passionforpinball.com/t2.htm

You'll find the posts you need to replace those 2 screws on the left side of the ramp are listed in the manual, and you might need some different sized rubbers (refer to the manual and jibmums pics for how it should be setup)

#8971 2 years ago
Quoted from Sehested:

Will they work when I have an upgraded skull like this one? https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1253-dystopic-pinball/05222-t800-terminator-2
Mod looks very interesting if it could fit in the upgraded skull. Great work!

Gnassel indicated previously that it'll work in replacement skulls - it just leverages the original wedge (T10) socket to physically hold (but not power) the LED eyes. Note that when you replace the skull, you need to retrofit the lamp bracket assembly for the eyes into the new skull, regardless of whether you are using incandescents, LEDs or Gnassel's eye mod.

Here's Gnassel's post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/179#post-6796021

#9005 2 years ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

My board doesn’t have a hole big enough to clear the white disc of the motor to mount it. Possible an aftermarket board?

The board and motor look like the original. Mine is mounted the same as jibmums

Note that the motor terminal lugs go through the PCB - so where you have wires soldered on should be holes to let the lugs come through the PCB and in doing so the inner center of the end to the motor will then be able to slide into the hole on the PCB, such that the PCB sits flush on the end of the motor. If still having issues maybe post some new pics showing the issue

2 weeks later
#9016 1 year ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Just rebuilt my flippers a week ago and everything was great. Tonight I fire it up and the right flipper goes dead. No movement. Tests show the switch is firing on the DMD. The wires look good and connected. No idea what happened. Any ideas? Everything else works fine. Thanks for any insight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have 50V at the coil lugs? If not check your fuses

2 weeks later
#9055 1 year ago
Quoted from Gnassel:

I'm sorry. What exactly does that mean?

Watch the first video Sehested posted - I noticed something strange with the eye movement as well but it doesn’t happen the the second video or on any of the clips you’ve posted, so I wonder if it was an issue with the video??

1 week later
#9059 1 year ago
Quoted from Asanteiro:

Hi friends . I need I need help... it was happening to me that a line of light was very weak... now it doesn't turn on anymore and maybe it turns on a little and stays off... I don't know what to do anymore... please help me!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What's the issue? You need to describe what you are doing and what is happening. I'm not sure what you mean by "a line of light was very weak"

Are you saying that the machine doesn't start up when you turn it on (but you've posted pics of the PF with lights on)? Or are you saying that you can't start a game?

#9062 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I think he means a GI string is out. Probably just a fuse if that's the case.

Arh yes possibly - it looks to me that both the central string (CPU lights) and the right string are both out

Asanteiro if it's your GI lights that you are referring to you can go into test mode and check which light strings aren't working. Then use the below to check the fuses for those strings and if they are ok then check the connections / connectivity from the power driver board to the GI lights.

T2 GI Fuses (resized).jpgT2 GI Fuses (resized).jpgT2 GI connections (resized).jpgT2 GI connections (resized).jpg
#9068 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. I was having some battery issues with my MPU board, so I replaced it with a new Rottendog one. I installed it and everything was working great at first. I went back in a few minutes later to tighten the screws on the board a bit and now my gun / plunger isn't firing. I checked all the wires etc and nothing seems loose but just curious if anyone here had any first troubleshooting solutions. Not sure if I blew a fuse on it or something. Thanks so much! G

Go into test mode - check the shooter lane switch is working and test the plunger solenoid. This will determine which is causing the issue

#9086 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

swapped cable... no effect...
RAM chip is not something I have in spare ...
You mean the L-x chip (Have a L-8)

Did you swap both ribbon cables to the DMD board or just the top one that daisy-chains with the sound board? My understanding is that the daisy chained ribbon cable sends command signals & addresses. The addresses reference the specific call-out and music held on the sound ROM (that is on the Audio board); as well as addresses to animations to display on the DMD from the DMD controller board. However the DMD controller board doesn’t have a ROM with the animations on it, but rather it has a RAM chip that is loaded with the animations at boot time from the game ROM chip on the CPU board. These animations are passed to the DMD controller via the second ribbon cable that only connects the CPU and DMD controller boards. If you haven’t already tried swapping the 2nd ribbon cable, I’d suggest doing this - make sure the game is off when swapping the cables. Typically scrambled DMD images are ribbon cable or RAM chip.

Of course this doesn’t explain why you aren’t getting any sounds - when you turn the game on, do you get the single “dong” sound? This indicates that the sound board is working correctly

If you want to confirm the issue is on the CPU board, you could swap the CPU boards b/n the T2 and Getaway - you’ll need to also swap the game ROM chips on the CPU boards.

#9091 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Thanks Manny! I went into test modes. Shooter lane switch is working but plunger solenoid isn't. So weird since it was working when I had the new board loosely installed, then stopped working when I tightened it up. I tried loosening it a bit but didn't make a difference.
The manual says the plunger plugs in at J127, so I checked that, replugged it etc.
Here's a little video of the new board installed, in case anything leaps out.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k10aik9ucd2d04g/IMG_3048.MOV?dl=0
Thanks so much for the guidance! G

So check you have 50v at the plunger coil. Check the resistance of the plunger coil. If both of these test good then try grounding the driver transistor tab for the plunger solenoid, if that works then test your driver transistors - the Pinwiki WPC webpage will give you details of how to test

1 week later
#9115 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Fixing up my T2. All GI cables were soldered to the pins, gonna put back a connector as lights in backbox are out now...
I saw Green in manual is connected to J120-2 and to J121-5 ?? only have one green cable in my pin ?
Also have orange and white orange cable not mentioned in manual...
what's the best setup ? or maybe some pics of J120/121

Yes the manual has a mistake (the "White/Colour" & "Colour" wires are paired)
Top Insert - White/Brown (manual) White/Brown (machine)
Bottom Insert - White/Green (manual) White/Orange (machine)
Left Playfield - White/Violet (manual) White/Violet (machine)
Right Playfield - White/Yellow (manual) White/Yellow (machine)
CPU - (not listed in the manual) White/Green (machine)
Not Used - White/Orange (manual)

#9118 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

[quoted image]
Can someone kindly share a photo of a properly wired, working drop target solenoid (#28) or at least confirm the wiring in the picture above is correct?
I toasted the last coil I wired this way but since then I replaced a faulty transistor at Q20 which may or may not have led to the coil's demise. The coil was originally wired with the blue-yellow and smaller violet wire on the left lug and the larger violet-orange wire to the lug on the right. I wired it back this way after replacing the transistor but it still isn't activating and I'm hesitant to burn up any more components.

When you say not working - do you mean in game play or solenoid test mode or both?

Worth reading https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Blown_.2F_Failing_Q20_Transistor_on_the_Driver_Board_and_the_Tieback_Diode

Assuming you have the tie-back connected at the driver board end, then this link will take you through the steps to troubleshoot where the issue is https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

#9120 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Thank you, I had a lot of doubt after reading different things.

This is great information so thank you. This helped me confirm the coil has voltage and will fire, continuity from the coil to the transistor is solid, the fuse is good and Tip102 at Q20 tests functional and we just replaced it so I'm still at a loss. That leaves testing transistor 2N5401 and IC LS374 at I think U2. Kind of debating sending the board off or just buying a new one, it has had a lot of work done to it and I'm a novice at board repair.

Are you sure the return line to transistor is good? How did you fire the coil (briefly short the coil to ground, or short the transistor tab to ground or via the service menu)?

#9134 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Tried iron at 380degr C (selectable up to 420), did not stick on pcb but solder got stuck on iron.
Tried weller gas iron (no temp control) same issue
Tried regular electric iron no temp control, no sticking...
Will indeed send board out to a professional for repair.
Just wondering why it didn't stick to the pcb...
I followed traces and got some beeps but some can't simply be followed or are maybe not used...
Found schematic drawing but even with it not very obviousto trace...
I changed some LM339 and ULN2803 (adding sockets) in the past and all worked out fine.
My vision : If you don't try it will remain broken, if you try and break it... own fault, live with it , trying is learning.

As to why the solder wouldn't adhere to the PCB, there are a lot of variables - for example the desoldering and cleanup of the board prior, the solder and flux you used, and a fair bit of it comes down to your technique & skill.

Here's a thread that I found most useful https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

Before attempting board work, it's worthwhile getting some old dead boards and practicing your technique

3 weeks later
#9153 1 year ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Made a boneheaded move and not sure what’s next.
I was installing Cliffys on my T2, and knocked off the wires for the drop target coil. The soldering in this table is a bit rough so the wires broke easily.
I thought I read the schematic right but it didn’t apparently because when I powered it on I got Magic Smoke from the coil and shut it down. Coil was very hot to the touch.
Fixed the issue with the wires and started it up again. I now have Ground Shorts on rows 2,3 and 4. Just to make sure it was the board and not the PF I disconnect J209 and still has shorts on 2 and 4.
Signs are pointing to me frying the board. I’ve read about the u18-u20 IC chips that control this and most likely need to be replaced.
What I’m curious about is:
Which board would have been affected from this? MPU or Driver?
Isn’t this what the fuses are supposed to stop from happening?
What’s the best way to repair this one?
Thanks for any insight.

Specifically which wires came off and where did you initially resolder them to? Pics would be useful as well

Ground shorts are associated with a short in the wiring or issue with the MPU board. J209 connects the PF switch rows, while J212 connects the cabinet switch rows. So remove both J209 and J212 and see if the ground shorts still exist as it is possible that the ground shorts are in the cabinet switch wiring.

#9157 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

When you are saying "connectors" I'm guessing you are referring to the ribbon cable? There are 3 ribbon cables, all 3 are used in relation to the DMD images. They can become an issue such as what you are seeing, and you'll find replacements available at pinball suppliers

#9158 1 year ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

I reversed a wire from the coil to the switch operating the coil. I tested the game with j209 and 212 disconnected and still had the Ground Short errors.

Believe you've put ~75V into the MPU's switch matrix circuit (which runs at 12V), so I'd expect the MPU will need work.

You also shorted the coil activating it (which is fine) but it got hot because it wasn't a short pulse. If in correcting the wiring the coil now works correctly, then you turned it off in time before the slow blow fuse went (or the fuse has the wrong rating), however I'd still suggest disassembling the coil, if you can't remove the coil sleeve easily (because the coil has swelled/melted) then you should replace the coil and sleeve.

#9182 1 year ago
Quoted from frodak99:

Have a new issue with my T2, the sound is going in and out. Sometimes the game boots fine, but it never gets through a full game with the sound correct. It will drop out or get stuck. Sometimes the noise the game makes when booting is normal and others it is super loud. I ordered new ribbon cables and installed, no change. I pulled the board and reseated the roms, no change. Any advice from the group, should I buy the sound board rebuild kit or just call it a day and send the board in for repair. Anyone have an educated guess which component or components cause this type of issue. Thanks in advance.

To confirm it’s the sound board, you could swap it with the board in your Black Rose & see if the issue follows the board.

Not sure that your issue is specifically listed in here but worth a read if you are looking to repair the board yourself https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Pre-DCS_Sound_Board_Issues

#9187 1 year ago
Quoted from frodak99:Interestingly, the Black Rose board is much louder so I needed to change the minimum volume setting.

Quoted from DumbAss:

This is likely due to the resistor value changes between non-fliptronic pre-DCS sound boards and fliptronic pre-DCS sound boards. The balance between the speech, sound and music changed with the resistor value changes.

Great pick up! I forgot about those resistors being different

1 week later
#9191 1 year ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Got my t2 14 days ago. Up to page 120 on this thread.
Taking all topside off and cleaning .removed mylar.
Gonna touch-up and auto clear.
Upper backbox gi and back left playfield gi weren't working.
Replaced fuses and back left playfield gi is good.
Upper backbox is why I'm posting.
Replaced connector with molex style. Continuity from connector up to lights.
Tested the header pins and was getting 7.9 volts.
Put connector on header pins
And no joy.
So pull board and reflow header? Even though I'm getting a good voltage reading?
Thx for any help.

When you tested the voltage the DMM was set to VAC with one probe on the specific coloured wire and the other probe on the white wire that has the same color "tracer"? Did you test the other GI string voltages and get a similar reading?

Pinwiki provides a great information and troubleshooting on the GI which may help https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

3 weeks later
#9224 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Small ball flow issue...
When a ball is leaving the game it's shot back up thru the troughs and it pushes the closest ball to the game a bit up.
This results in the game still thinking ball is in game and not giving boni. You can see ball very close to shooter lane. If i hit the machine on the right side it falls back in place and points are counted.
Have been looking how to adjust but can't find it... it's like it's shooting the ball to strongly up to the center/right trough when entering on the left trough.
Can this be adjusted ? Will add a pic.

Have you inspected the trough return runway (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-3569-1) and baffle on the runway ball guide (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8623) for any damage like cracked or broken welds? Compare the T2 runway to your CFTBL to see if the angles are all similar. You could even try swapping the outhole kicker and/or the runway parts b/n your 2 games to see if they make a difference, in order to narrow down where the issue is or what is different b/n the 2 setups.

#9235 1 year ago
Quoted from jimjam:

Since we are on the topic, has anybody found a fix for the kickback to return the ball to the top of the playfield

From previous discussions on this thread, I don't believe the kickback is designed to specifically feed the top rollover lanes. I have seen some games get it into the top lanes but it's certainly not common. It is dependent upon the pitch of the PF and probably a matter of adjusting the outlane and chase loop ball guides to aid with the flow the ball to achieve it (assuming the kickback coil is providing enough power).

#9237 1 year ago
Quoted from jimjam:

I get 1 in 50 reaching the top, I think it was intended to do that.
It has a 800 coil, I was hoping somebody here might have already fine tuned that feature.
Maybe change the star post near the kickback to a thinner steel post so you can bend the outer steel strip?

Of my 2 running machines, I've only seen it once go up into the top lanes but I'm sure it wouldn't take much to fine turn and sounds like yours is pretty close - maybe taking some slo-mo videos would help pin point where it loses momentum or needs adjusting.

Out of curiosity, I took a look at the original T2 promo video to see what the kickback did - the first doesn't make the top lanes, but think the second one does based on where Steve reaches for the ball, so there was variation even with the original promo machine.

#9239 1 year ago
Quoted from jimjam:

Hey Manny, thanks for the response. I found this 3 year old thread on the kickback
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-how-far-does-the-kick-back-send-the-ball-on-your-game-#post-6089576
I might try to stiffen up the the wall on the chase loop lane and test it out, would be a game changer getting more multipliers with better flow.
checked you collection = 4 x T2

Lol yep I’ve got 2 in cardboard boxes - have acquired all the missing parts and had the PF’s restored and clear coated. Have stalled in restoring the cabinets but will get there eventually.

Thanks for posting the thread - might need to take a look at mine. I’m not necessarily chasing the bonus of having it go into the pops but don’t want to have any loose ball guides. Keep us posted whether tightening up the ball guides improves yours.

1 week later
#9273 1 year ago
Quoted from tripplett:

I don’t think the inserts are raised. At least they don’t feel like it - I checked again today. I tried to show this in the pictures but to me it looks like someone put stickers over the inserts a long time ago and now they are wearing off and peeling/ripping. See the 250,000 insert in the second pic. I was asking if originally T2 had lettering printed directly on the inserts or was there stickers over them originally. I’m guessing the former. Maybe I should just try and remove one.

All artwork (incl insert text) was originally screen printed onto the PF. You'll often get cracking around the edge of inserts and the artwork will chip off (like on your machine) especially if the insert has started to rise - it doesn't need to rise much (<1mm) for the ball to start making contact with the edge of the clear on the insert, consequently weakening it to the point whereby it'll chip off. As others have posted you can get insert decals to replace the damaged artwork because it is a common issue - but the question then is whether you have the skills or interest in restoring the PF. Alternatively you could buy a repro PF or pick up an old used PF and have that restored by someone, while you work on getting the game working.

#9289 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

So one of my coil end switches was not opening. Lead to stuck flipper. I removed the sleeve. The new sleeve is TAF tight as.
If a coil sleeve won’t go into a coil is the coil bad?
Thanks

Yes so the power coil remained on while the flipper was held up, causing the coil to over heat. If the old sleeve doesn’t remove easily or you can’t install the new one then the coil has swelled and needs to be replaced.

#9293 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

It is not burnt anywhere or stinky at all. How is the best way to see if the coil is shot?
Thanks

The coil still could work (there are 2 windings one has 4 ohms resistance and the other 133) but if you can't get the new sleeve in because the coil has swollen from the heat, then you replace it - otherwise you risk reduced power in your flippers due to increased friction of the plunger in the coil/coil sleeve.

#9297 1 year ago
Quoted from jimjam:

I have a question about sound call outs.
Apparently these call outs are included in the game but I have never heard any of them in the last 20 years of owning a T2.
Just want to confirm if you guys hear them, listed below.
“Way to go“
“Get down”
“He’ll live”
“Time to go”
“Right now”
“They’re here”
“Out of the way”
“Look out”
“I am a Cyberdyne Systems series 800 terminator”
“Reloaded"
“Terminated”
“You’re targeted for termination”
“Get behind me if you want to live”
“No way, Jose”
“No problemo"
“I am a cybernetic organism”

There are quite often unused audio clips on the B/W sound ROMs - I suspect that the sound engineer recorded as many call outs as they could but then it was up to Richie as to which were used in the actual gameplay.

3 weeks later
#9326 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

If I don't fully hit the right ramp with full power, it always comes back down and goes SDTM. Is there supposed to be a wire or other piece to prevent this (like on BOP, ball return from pop bumpers has a SDTM blocking wire), or is this by design? It's just brutal! Yes I know I suck

Games were designed to be brutal and the geometry of ramps shot from the lower flippers always means there's a possibility of SDTM drains when you don't make the ramp (varying the PF pitch also affects this), but I'd be checking your flippers as I don't have issues making the right ramp (compared to say IJ or MM where the ramp is much steeper). It is also possible to back hand the ramp, although that is not a shot I go for but have had occur.

#9332 1 year ago
Quoted from candyman1979:

Hi to all from Germany. I’m a proud owner of a T2. I’m just renovating it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats! That PF looks to be in pretty good condition below all that dirt & grime.

2 weeks later
#9363 1 year ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Started having an issue where the VUK behind the skull is staying in the up position at all times preventing the ball from sinking into the hole/cradle.
If I manually place the ball in the cradle and manually depress the plunger, it fires the ball up and through the habitrail no problem.
Anyone encounter this before? I've tried looking for previous posts on the site, but nothing I've found quite matches this problem.

Sound like the VUK spring that ensures the plunger comes back down is broken or the coil sleeve needs replacing. You need to lift the PF and inspect the mech - should be pretty easy to determine the issue

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#9367 1 year ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Dowel pin was definitely sticking out too far, but there was also a slight bind in the alignment of the armature and coil. It was catching on the down stroke and the spring isn't strong enough to overcome it. That was the real issue.
Also noticed one of the leads to the coil was in rough shape. Going to reflow that while I'm in here. Anyway, thanks Manny65 for the assist!

It should be easy to remove the entire mech - probably 4 screws (get yourself some nut drivers if you don’t already have them). The bottom end of the sleeve is broken, so expect that replacing the sleeve and centre the dowel pin, as well as giving the mech a clean will resolve the issue. Check the armature is not damaged

#9369 1 year ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

Yep, did all of that and mounted it back in. Plays fine for now (got my new personal best of 114mil ), and it looks like the replacement sleeve is available on Marco.
Thanks again!

Given you've just picked up this game and based on the condition of the coil sleeve in the VUK, probably worthwhile in buying a bunch of sleeves for all the coils (check the manual and parts list as some mechs use different sleeves) as well as a flipper rebuild kit, some new balls and rubbers. These are all standard maintenance items and it'll get you more familiar with all the components in this game, as well as ensuring the game plays well (now and into the future).

3 weeks later
#9394 1 year ago
Quoted from dtrimberger:

Odd question but can somebody give me the standard size of the pop bumper cap screws? My caps need replaced but I'm noticing that they're may actually be 6 different screws holding them down
Thanks
Joined the club 2 days ago btw

Congrats on the new pin.

You'll find what screws were used in the Parts List that you can download from IPDB, they should be listed in the pop bumper sub assembly

1 week later
#9415 1 year ago
Quoted from tomaszb1:

Does anyone have or can point me in right direction for a new plastic set? Seems like sold out in all the common places…

These are the guys that actually make them (under license) https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields-plastics/31-1-50013-terminator-2-playfield-plastic-set

#9418 1 year ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Have a weak right flipper, replaced eos and flipper button switch, still weak. Plunger, coil stop and sleeve are alll good, any suggestions?

What condition is the contact points on the flipper button’s leaf switch like?

#9423 1 year ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Put a new bushing in, I will have to double check the gap and eos gap tonight, and report back

With the power off, manually raise the flipper bat feeling for any resistance or binding, and compare it to the left side (which I believe is behaving properly - right?). Compare the vertical movement of both bats. What's the resistance of the power and hold windings on the coil, and how do they compare to the left flipper coil?

Now with the power on, what's the voltage at the left and right flipper coils?

3 weeks later
#9453 1 year ago
Quoted from legotech1:

Need help. Restoring a T2 that was operator owned and set for 15+ years. The scull has a diod in it but does not show one In the manual. The diod drops the voltage to 2 volts so at the least it’s in backwards. Is it supposed to be there?
[quoted image]

In addition to what jibmums and Averell have posted, while it isn't shown in the manual (they often have mistakes), it is listed in the parts list (downloadable from IPDB) for the skull assembly - this is a great reference in case you haven't leveraged it in the past.

1 week later
#9481 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Also, in my quest to get this baby dialled in, I've been trying to solve this annoying color DMD issue with the purple square pictured here.
- I reseated all the connectors
- Display Test showed no RAM errors.
- I traded the J603 Ribbon with a working one on my Dracula to see if that was the issue, but no luck.
- I took the DMD board from my Dracula and tried it on the T2 and I still got the same purple thing, so it's probably an actual issue with the Color DMD?
There were two other ribbon cables on the top left that I'll try switching out with Dracula tonight, just in case, but thought I'd see if this is ringing any bells for anyone. Many thanks! G
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

From the looks of the display issue and confirmed by your tests, that’s a DMD issue

#9493 1 year ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Yes if you do all this work please share pics on here. I do have a question - you mentioned replacing all "targets and star posts, rubber, screws/nuts". I'm about to strip the top of mine, clean, polish the habitrails, leds, rubbers, etc. I'd love to put in all new screws. Is there a company that has a top of playfield screw & nut 'kit' (think LED kits) to go all new or did you just add up all the sizes and piece that together? Thanks.

The information provided in this teardown could be useful, combined with the parts list (downloadable from IPDB) if you want to find their B/W part number
http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

#9503 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Okay it’s home and set up playing.
The good:
- the game itself seems to be 100% working
- speakers are loud and clear all audio working
- DMD seems good and strong.
- playfield I would say I’d surprisingly good
- claim of all LED and seems true.
- couple mods in the t1000 in front of the bumpers and the flying ship is new with led blinkers.
Cons:
- I knew the wood on the cabinetry was rough but it’s worse than I thought. Really rough with lots of corners delaminating.
- he even franken supported a spot drilling in a 2x2 support on the inside to support the bottom.
- coin door is apparently not original.
- glass slides in and out too easy seems little to no foam seal on the sides or on the lock bar.
- one spot if playfield I see some flaking of the clear coat on the right inlane and has slightly damaged colours.
So I may dive in deep on a full restoration project. It will be my first restoration. The cabinet may be okay with a combo of bindo and. We laminate.
Got me thinking with the amount of wood work this needs is there an option out there to just buy a new blank Williams cabinet I can put graphics on and basically shift everything over to?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Missing the right ramp entrance plastic & brackets
Looks like it's missing the blue pad on the left return wireform

"no foam seal on the sides"?? do you mean the plastic siderail channels are missing? https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-glass-side-rail-plastic-channel.html
"coin door is apparently not original" - show us a pic of the coin door

#9515 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Okay so as to the possible water damage and possible rust on the bottom of the playfield. I got a better look today and although the bottom of the cab is rather grungy looking. I feel like the bottom of the playfield is rather clean looking. Any thoughts?
I also put in a few playfield shots including the right inlane which I feel is the worst spot. But you can see a fair bit of that protective Mylar? Stickers around.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fine to me - drop target and flipper mechs need some work, but that's pretty straight forward

#9540 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Please what do you see mate I lack the experience.

The flipper rebuild kit will get the flipper mechs sorted.

On the drop target, there are 2 springs (one to pull the target down and one of the small coil to reset it's actuator arm) both of these need replacing. Also there's a missing screw hold the brass actuator arm on the small coil.

Unless you're doing a full PF swap, I'd suggest that you work your way through stripping and cleaning each mech, replacing any coil sleeves and damaged parts. Use the manual and parts list (both are downloadable from IPDB) to help out part numbers etc - also googling part and assembly numbers will give you lots of images for you to compare yours with.

Wiring hacks can be a little tricker as to what has been done and why; and whether the inclusion of mods and associated power taps are suitable.

#9542 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Mean while I can strip the playfield and that leads me to ask about buying one of those rotisserie things for the playfield. Any suggestions?

Rotisseries definitely make life easier - check out the PinDoc version https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gauging-interest-in-all-metal-pf-rotisseries-for-18000-shipped

You can also make your own - if you goggle "DIY Pinball Rotisserie" you'll see lots of ideas

#9548 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

No not yet but based on your images and what my eyes have shown me so far I do not believe I have rust in the same way that you do. I am not so sure my cabinet was ever in serious water or even outside as one pinsider suspected. But being in Vancouver BC we live in 100% humidity if this was left in some outside shed with no climate control it would get serious moisture. But again even though the wood looks like this i do not see any rust to speak of on the playfield underside at all.
I do not suspect the playfield is warped either but I will get it stripped then maybe take one last decision on whether I sand and clear coat or just get the new full PF.

This is how a mate cleaned up a T2 after a flood - always makes me laugh (and yes he's taking the piss)

He replaced the cabinet but everything else including the PF was salvageable

#9569 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

I think there will end up being very little on this playfield that I reuse in the way of mechs and plastics, bumpers etc. Everything seems super worn out and on the end of collapse. Plastics cracked all over, bumpers look ragged, the bank targets look really bad etc. Obv the wire forms and metal ramps and a few more metal bits are fine once cleaned up but I may end up pretty much replacing everything.
Is every part on a T2 available from somewhere or is there a few bits of unobtainium I need to be aware of.

I wouldn’t throw anything out until you’ve sourced a replacement part that is better than what you have. Some parts aren’t available new and some replacement parts may not be the same quality as the original. I would suggest that you work through your game on what needs replacing and then see if you can source a replacement.

#9579 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

Okay I still plan to pull off the Mylar tonight after I pick up some compressed air and then clean it even further but here it is with a baseline clean.
A few bad lines like where the right ramp goes I believe. The Center cpu sticker issue I think is a small piece of decal gone. In general all the insert decals seem “tall” with a ridge idk if that’s normal or if there are perhaps decals stacked on decals.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That PF looks in good order - perfect for a resto. Minimal damage on the saucers and drop target. The VUK hole will fix up fine. I prefer to restore a PF rather than buy a new replacement as it’s a known entity - but understand others prefer a new PF but these can come with issues and simple misalignment

#9580 1 year ago
Quoted from Kabball:

This was kind of neat to see. It was unplugged already so who knows how many plays this had. It is a play counter?
[quoted image]

That’s not original on T2. Believe they were more used on older machines although operators some put them on their games

1 week later
#9602 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Need some help guys.
Right flipper engages when you hit the start button (not when you just turn it on) so I looked underneath and found the right diode connection in the the first picture below had broken, probably due to vibrations over time. So I replaced both diodes thinking this would solve the issue, however it still does it. It’s my understanding that T2 flippers are engaged solely through switches and that there are no transistors involved, so looking around the only other thing I found is in the second picture, which looks like a possibly damaged ceramic disc capacitor (.1 uF 500V).
So could this be causing my issue and can I test it in circuit or does it have to come out? Also, how do I test it? I’m pretty sure I can play without in the short term but I wanted to get some help before I start snipping and cutting.
A little history; I replaced the cabinet leaf switch a few months ago and it started locking on because it was making contact with the plunger, which managed to burn through a few fuses before I figured it out. It may have damaged the capacitor then but that wouldn't explain why it isn’t working now. Also, I don’t think it’s coincidence the diode connection and capacitor broke at the same time (if capacitor is actually broken)
Update: just found out the left flipper activates the plunger so now I'm completely lost.
[quoted image][quoted image]

With T2 (pre-fliptronics) the 50V power goes through the flipper button leaf switch. However the flippers can only work when the relay is active, which is enabled when you start a game - this is why with your issue the flipper only engages when you hit the start button. Therefore you have a short through your flipper button leaf switch - for example the leaf switch is permanently close, or you have a dead short through the capacitor, or those wires are shorted somewhere else.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Using a DMM (with the machine turned off) you can do a connectivity test between the 2 lugs on the leaf switch. If shorted (which is suspected), unsolder the capacitor and retest it should now be open. Then test the capacitor to confirm it's shorted and needs to be replaced.

Note the current solder connection on the leaf switch isn't great - here's a great thread on soldering that helped me when I first started out https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

As for the issue with the left flipper activating the plunger, that sounds like a diode issue (either failure or installed backwards) which will cause multiple switch activations in the switch matrix. Check out this video which will help you identify the switch/diode with the issue

#9604 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Thanks Manny! Really appreciate your help and information.
Did the connectivity test and removing the capacitor fixed all the issues, which brings up several different questions.
Do you think the diode wire break caused the capacitor to go bad? Game was working fine until the other day.
Also, the left flipper no longer activates the plunger. Looking at the switch matrix video it seems possible that the capacitor was also causing that, imitating a diode failure in a way.
Game is working good again but I’m going to replace the capacitor anyway, looks like it’s not absolutely necessary but will prevent excessive fouling of the flipper switch contacts.

Yes you should replace the capacitor as it is there to reduce sparking and possible damage to the flipper switch contacts.

Unsure that the original diode issue would have caused the flipper switch's capacitor to fail, although electronics at that level is not my strong point.

I'm struggling to see the connection between the flipper switches and the plunger being activated ... that said it's good to hear that you've identified the failed component causing the issue.

#9606 1 year ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Quick question guys, restoring a T2 and one of the riveted metal tabs to the clear ramp plastics (Skynet) is broken, I know Marco has sold them in the past but I can't find them. Anyone know where to purchase them now? Thanks!

Skynet ramp has 2 different rivets - I think the chrome rivet is used on the top for the wireform and the nickel rivet used on the ramp flap. Both use the same washer. This is from the Parts List that you can download from IPDB

07-6688-19A rivet 7/32X1/8 chrome
07-6688-22N rivet 5/16X1/8 nickel
4700-00003-00 fw .125X.281X.032

Marco has these in stock but they are zinc plated, so if you use them you may want to replace both so that they look consistent. From a quick Google, nickel and chrome rivets are available elsewhere if you specifically want those

#9610 1 year ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Thank you! Actually I have a set of rivets but I'm looking for the metal link that the plastic is riveted on to, if that makes sense.

Are you talking about the ramp flap https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10096

If you're after the bracket hanger 01-10095 (the metal bracket riveted on the top of the ramp), then might be harder to find as a single part - maybe pick up a used ramp that'll have one or replace the ramp entirely with a new ramp (that includes both the ramp flap and bracket hanger).

#9611 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I jumped the gun on this. I thought I had it fixed until I was putting it back together and when I started a game it did it again, and it's not just the left it's both. I went through the switch test to see if I could see it on the screen but I couldn't replicate it. When I started a new game it wouldn't do it. Long story short it seems to do it only when it's cold, after it warms up it behaves normal. My next move is to look for shorts and the diodes on the related components in the switch matrix (video was a big help, thanks), seems like there is just a bad connection somewhere.

I believe there's a setting that allows you to launch the ball using the flippers buttons - is that turned on?

When it occurs, is it just when there is a ball in the shooter lane? or every time you press the flipper button (regardless where the ball is on the PF)?

#9613 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

No, I looked at that setting and it's off.
Just when the ball is in the shooter lane, it won't activate after it launches the ball

What version of s/w are you running?

#9617 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Does this look right?[quoted image]

Yes that version shouldn't be causing any issues ... maybe try a factory reset just to make sure.

The other thing is to check the solder joints for cracking or poor connections - the solder should be smooth and nicely formed. If the problem disappears as the game warms up, this could point to a poor connection somewhere (like the solder joints on the flipper button leaf switch you posted earlier - not being critical, just trying to give you pointers as to what could be the problem and what to look for).

Hope this helps

1 week later
#9626 1 year ago
Quoted from Isac:

Finally joining the club!
Got my T2 as a "DYI kit" from my friend He partially dismantled the game in his workshop some time ago and then realized that he doesn't have time/patience to clean and fix the game. So I got some cardboard boxes, put everything I could find in them and took it home. Some parts might be missing, the cabinet is not in best shape, but the playfield is decent and the game at least boots. It's going to be interesting adventure for sure, but he will be back
[quoted image][quoted image]

This documented teardown might be useful http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

If you've got any questions, just post them here

#9629 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I haven't read through the whole page but be careful identifying parts based solely on those listings. A cursory glance shows a number of errors right off the bat just on the lower and middle playfield listings, all those #4 machine screws should be #6.

Yes good catch and thanks for the heads up

Quoted from Isac:

That is amazing! Thanks a lot, that's gonna help me for sure. The fact that it has all the screws documented is a life saver. The screws I got are all mixed together in one plastic container

As per jibmums comment, don't take the teardown details as gospel as the op might have made mistakes and/or items might not reflect how the machine originally rolled off the production line; that said it is a good starting point. I cross reference everything with the parts list and the manual (both are downloadable from IPDB) to confirm and get the B/W part number to source any missing components.

#9651 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Do you happen to remember what T800 skull you were using in this setup? I'm trying to make my own but I think it will be too big for the space and yours seems to fit more appropriately.

Looks like the Loot Crate skull - if you search in this thread you’ll get lots of posts on the specific skull

#9657 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

So oddly my T2 doesn’t have a service outlet in it. It has a cap where the outlet should be which I’m guessing can be replaced with this part from PBL. My question is what wires would I tap into to power the new outlet?
https://www.pinballlife.com/ac-service-outlet-snap-in-receptacle-with-wire-leads.html
[quoted image]

Most export games didn't have service outlets in the early WPC games (such as T2), so guessing that your machine is a re-import.

Here's how it should be wired

WPC Service Outlet (resized).jpgWPC Service Outlet (resized).jpg

#9672 1 year ago
Quoted from Cocktaildave:

Yeah, 6-32 screws will not fit unless I tap the hole. I can do that unless someone has another idea.

I took mine off to confirm and as vec-tor indicated it's a #6 sheet metal screw (this is not a 6-32 machine screw that you need a tapped hole in the metal)

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01115-08

#9681 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

This is great, what did you use to cut it? The edges are very sharp and clean
https://a.co/d/fu846Yd
This is the wall mount, which is more expensive, but may be easier to work with since the back is open and the eyes light up already, may be too big to fit though.

While it looks great, I believe it'll be too large to fit - the original skull is 140mm (H) x 85mm (W), while this one is 230mm (H) x 160mm (W)

#9711 1 year ago
Quoted from Quadrider:

I’ve been on a mission to figure out a way to adjust the T2 kickback to feed into the rollovers and pop bumpers every time. Not sure if SR originally designed it to, but I feel it only makes logical sense… (E.G. Getaway kickback into the mountain). In fact, most T2 owners say their kickback just feeds into the chase loop and falls right back down. Well I finally got it to work 100% of the time.
I replaced the kickback coil, plunger, and return spring (not sure if you would have to, but I did it before I figured out the solution). Basically, I installed 2 small thin washers under the red screws and 1 under the yellow screw in between the coil bracket and PF. Also, the coil needs to be adjusted as far left as possible without the plunger hitting the bend out in the side rail right before the coil. The idea is that the plunger hits the ball at dead center along with pushing it left for a smooth feed along the kickback left guide rail.
Under the cannon, There’s 2 screws on the side rail that need to be removed (marked in blue). Lightly hand bend this side rail towards the right, flexing it towards the cannon base and GI Bulb (green arrow). Unfortunately in order for this to work, you have to leave those 2 screws out to allow the guide rail to essentially flex during the impact. After bending the rail to the right, I tried drilling new holes in the PF and screwing the rail back in using the newly drilled holes, but unfortunately it doesn’t work…. it acts like a solid wall and doesn’t allow the ball to move up into the chase loop. The rail must be able to lightly flex to mitigate and sponge the impact. I’m not really concerned about PF wear along the rail, as it barely moves when the ball impacts it anyways. Worst case, maybe I’ll put a thin strip of Mylar under the side rail.
Good luck!
[quoted image][quoted image]

This has come up before and I took a look at the original T2 promo video to see what the kickback did - the first kickback doesn't make the top lanes, but think the second one does based on where Steve reaches for the ball, so there was variation even with the original promo machine.

If you're interested, there's also various posts on techniques people have used to get the ball more reliably up to the rollover lanes from the kickback - probably easiest to search the thread for kickback and then scan the posts.

#9714 1 year ago
Quoted from tripplett:

Not to take anything away from SR (or the mullet ha) and an incredible pin design but it is apparent that Williams didn't have access to much of the movie material when this game was created. I'm sure that was discussed before somewhere in this 195 pages of goodness. So many iconic points in the movie, music, callouts, characters, etc from the movie just aren't in it. T-1000 is the obvious one. He's on a plastic or two and the back of the playfield but a toy would have been cool (yes I'm aware of 3D printed add ons). The back glass and cabinet could have contained more of this great movie. Music and call outs too. Anyway I'm sure I'm not telling you all anything you don't already know. Love this game and movie, just wish they had meshed better.

The game was designed prior to the release of the T2 movie and they were restricted on what was able to be put on the pin. The movie and the game both came out in July 1991

#9721 1 year ago
Quoted from ravve:

Thx, already checked most of the image galley, not so much backbox images but some are useful

Page 3-7 to 3-10 in the manual shows most of the board connectors and their associated wire colours. Also the vast majority of the connectors are keyed, so that will help as well. I'd suggest that you do all of these and then see what (if any) connectors you have left unplugged - if you can't work out where they go take some pics and we can help you out.

1 week later
#9761 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Thanks for taking the time and looking at this for me. I need the shaft that fits into the plunger cap.
If you look at my pic I need the part that get driven up by the coil the top of it broke off and you can see where the pin goes into it cuz it is broke there.

The manual has all the parts listed (you can download the manual from IPDB if you don't already have it)

You'll need parts 2, 3 & 4 in the below pic, and you should replace the sleeve (#10) while you're at it

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#9763 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

Thanks I have the manual and the part I need is not on that fig. That’s why I was asking for help.
The part I need is between arrows 4 and 10.
Maybe it is part 2 if it’s one piece???
Thanks

Correct the armature (#2) is sold as one piece

#9772 1 year ago
Quoted from Rascal-911:

Recently lost my right flipper, no power.
On the power driver board Fuse 112 was good ,but Fuse 102 was blown, replaced it and it blew again. I am suspecting BR3 rectifier, but haven't pulled the board to tested it yet. My pins don't break down often but when they do I need to go into learning mod, but there is much to learn, so I am looking for advice if I am on the right path from someone who knows these old Williams boards better than me.

I'd doubt that it's BR3, as it powers all your solenoids as well as both flippers and you only have an issue with the right flipper (I assume that the left flipper and solenoids all work fine?). Does the fuse blow immediately or only when you start a game or only when you press the flipper button?

Replace F102 and disconnect J109 and J110, then power the game on - if F102 blows then the issue is on the power driver board, otherwise it's on either the PF or cabinet.

#9774 1 year ago
Quoted from Rascal-911:

Thanks I will try this to narrow it down.
I had a Dirty Harry with one right flipper out and blowing fuses and I found a bad rectifier on the Fliptronic board that fixed it. Thought it might be similar with the Power Driver board on T2.
I will dig deeper. Thanks.

T2 is pre-fliptronics, so BR3 powers all coils.

When is the fuse F102 blowing?

#9776 1 year ago
Quoted from Rascal-911:

I changed the fuse last night, powered up and started a game, no power to flipper. I didn't check to see if it blows on power up or just when a game starts.
I need to find more fuses.
Would you know what q # transistor on the Power Driver board would be associated with the Right flipper? The manual doesn't have good schematics or board layout.

T2 doesn't use transistors for the flippers, it's more like a simple circuit with a switch (the flipper button switch). BR3 sends power to the coil (so before starting a game you should have 50V power on the coil lugs - assuming F102 hasn't blown). The circuit then goes to the flipper button switch (hence the need for a high power leaf switch, compared to what is used on fliptronics games), and then back to the power driver board. The relay on the power driver board is how the game controls when the flippers can and can't be used, when the game is started the relay closes connecting the flipper button leaf switch to ground, such that when the button is pressed current will pass from BR3 through the coil and then the flipper button leaf switch to ground.

Here's the associated schematics for the flippers
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#9790 1 year ago
Quoted from Rascal-911:

Update, I got a buddy to borrow (steal) a couple fuses from work, put it in and blows F102. Removed coil and installed a different known working one and boom we are back in business. I can't see that coil blowing but maybe one or both of the diodes is cooked?
But thanks for all the help from everyone. We are back in business.

Test the resistance between the faulty coil lugs (https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html shows you should have 4.0 ohms and 133.0 ohms on the 2 wirings). Suspect you have a short on one of them - as you mentioned possibly a shorted diode

#9793 1 year ago
Quoted from CNKay:

Looking for terminator 3 club?
Can anyone point me in the right direction.
Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t3-clubrise-of-the-machine

2 weeks later
#9818 1 year ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Picked up a T2 this week that was non-functional. Did the obvious first, and swapped out some fuses (main line, couple on power board, and dmd control board that looked fried). Powered on, and was getting no light on D20 on the control board (picture attached).
Then, about 30 seconds later, everything fired up and worked fine (D20 light was flickering). DMD is gassing, and date/time isn't set, but that is the only issue.
Could I be so lucky? Or, is the notion that the machine had to sit for like 30 seconds before firing up a sign of more issues? I powered it down for the time being, but plan on trying it again later.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Was D19 lit for the entire 30sec while D20 was off? The blanking circuit (D19) may have stayed on for much longer than normal (usually a couple of seconds).

The date not being set will happen when the batteries are dead. You probably need to check for any corrosion if the old batteries were left in it - this could be contributing to the boot up issue and will get worse if let untreated

2 weeks later
#9845 1 year ago
Quoted from brianc:

Anyone have a lead on an apron decal or a replacement apron that is pristine? My apron has a few random scratches right in the middle of the Williams logo and I'd love to freshen that up. I've seen a few options that all seem to ship very expensively from European vendors - something US based would be nice, but if it has to come from overseas it would be nice to have a source that is verified as legitimate.

If you can't find in the US then Mr Pinball (Australia) has the legitimate apron - is a licensed B/W manufacturer (he previously owned the B/W license prior to PPS)

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/terminator-2-apron-decal-set/

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