Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi all,
When I picked up my T2, the batteries had been removed, so each time I turned on the game it would restore factory settings. I've finally replaced the batteries, but the game still restores factory setting on start up.
Any thoughts?
thx

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Nifty... Anyone with a minty translight want to buy this, and then sell me their minty translight?? PM me!

Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Does everyone think this is the best idea to re-chrome the shooter gun? Thanks! G[quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Do someone know what size t-nut that are used to hold the plastic close to the flippers? (2*3)
Image has the original one and one I thought was the right one (a little to big)[quoted image]

Quoted from jjoravec:

Doing a restore and lost some of my pictures, can someone post pictures of the front inside corner of their cabinet that shows where these wires connect?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

I'm guessing you mean a cheaper source. Marco has it.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1640

Quoted from jjoravec:

Can someone post a picture of how their start button is wired up? I have everything working but the start button. Even in switch test the button does not work.
Thanks

Quoted from jjoravec:

Can someone post a picture of how their start button is wired up? I have everything working but the start button. Even in switch test the button does not work.
Thanks

Quoted from jjoravec:

I resolved my start button problem, which led me to hopefully my final issue. When I power on the game it blows the f105 fuse, which is for solenoids 1-8. If I unplugged connector J130, the fuse doesn't blow. I am assuming this means one of those solenoids are bad. I unplugged the knocker one so that eliminates it. I check the rest of the solenoids with my multi-meter and the ohms range for 2 -10.
I did notice non of the solenoids had diodes on then, Is there supposed to be?
Any ideas what the issue could be, before I disconnect each solenoid?
Thanks

Quoted from tezting:

When I picked up my T2 it had a yellow post here and was told that it was correct. It was something Steve often did.
Is this correct? Do anyone else have a yellow post here?
I can see that the rubber kit from pinball.center also has a yellow post in the kit.[quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Btw. wonder why your special insert is white? is it the same on the other side?

Quoted from tezting:

When looking at my two Ball Eject Assemblies one has a AE-26-1200 and the other one has AE-26-1500.
When I look at the manual it says AE-26-1500 for both (unless I am reading it wrong?)
Has a previous owner installed the wrong coil? (the one on the left to get the ball in play)[quoted image]

Quoted from algrande:

Not a post, screw for the wireform
[quoted image]

Quoted from algrande:

PF, wireform, screw..that's it

Quoted from Averell:

Try to complete my T2 more and more every day...
[quoted image]

Quoted from jjoravec:

I have a T2 that keeps blowing fuse F114 when I power on. I have the WPC89 MPU unplugged. I have tried 3 different Driver boards and they all keep blowing Fuse f114 on the driver board when I power on.
Any thoughts on what this could be or where to begin? I looked at the Pin wiki page and tried some of their idea but it didnt help.
Thanks

Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Thanks for the suggestion. Is there a way I can identify / verify this? Or a number so I'd know which fuse it is? G
I just tried it with a ribbon from my Ghostbusters Color DMD and it didn't work, so the ribbon is eliminated.

Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Ok thanks for the info! So would I be focusing on the 601 / 602 ones then, as those link to the Dot Matrix board?
Attached are some pics from the power board. You can see F116 at the top left and F115 and F101-105
If the fuse is busted on 601 / 602 would it look visibly burnt out or should I just get a new one and try it?
Thank you so much. G[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

3amp slo blo
You can get fuses at auto parts stores, electronic stores, hardware stores, possibly even home improvement stores. Though they will be priced higher at these stores but you will have it right away.
You can slide a flathead screwdriver under the fuse near one of the metal ends and just turn the screwdriver slowly.

Quoted from Xtraball:

Just noticed this on mine! What size bit did you use, do you remember?

Quoted from Pinstym:

This part was thrown in with some other extra parts when I purchased my game. I didn't see it anywhere on my game, so I thought it must belong to some other game.
I just came across the shop out guide on pinwiki, and now i see it goes in back of the skull.
Can anyone speak to it's purpose? Game seems to play perfectly fine without it.
Does anyone have detailed pictures of how to install it?
Thanks for any help.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Love the new plasticset![quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Feel stupid...
How do I change the coil on this mech?
I can’t figure it out and would like not to break anything.[quoted image]

Quoted from Don44:

As far as I can tell it does not say what size coil in the manual anywhere. Can anybody tell me the correct coil?

Quoted from tezting:

Has anyone installed this or similar?
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/terminator-2/9434/playfield-protector-for-terminator-2
I got a new repro playfield with nice clear coat. But the protector is “cheap” and I am thinking about if it is a good idea to add even more protection?
Or is it overkill and have some kind of negative effect on the game..

Quoted from Rob-T-800:

Contact them that's what i did. They still make them.
Its very sturdy and solid.

Quoted from Rob-T-800:

Lightedpinballmods.com and 107.99 i think its worth it, its the best and most accurate one ive found and its sold so if the ball happens to hit it it won't damage it.

Quoted from J85M:

Anyone here brought the T2 mirrored backglass from CPR? How good is it? Is it worth the price?

Quoted from tezting:

If you get a new playfield. Make sure to get new plastic as well. I am glad I did!
The colors are matching so much better than my camera can catch.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Yes, all.

Quoted from Manny65:

You can buy it here https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-1-50013-8.html
Or if you want something more local to you then you can buy a set of the T2 clear plastics (5 in total) that includes the one you are after plus the 3 triangular plastics for ball hangs and an switch actuator guide for the drop target (WMS putthis on later games that used the drop target mech obviously to address issues that they'd seen out on site)
https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/T2_Page.html
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_41&products_id=456&zenid=7bc72b65af984789d82c3d0920988df1

Quoted from harig:

It´s the same on mine...pretty sure it was like that from the factory (mine seems to be untouched-no rsteo done before)

Quoted from tezting:

Thank you so much.
Do you also have an image from behind?
My plastics are VERY tight and overlapping in the back. I can’t see what’s wrong?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Thank you. That’s perfect.
Looks like your plastics are not overlapping behind like mine are.
Now I just have to figure out if it is the left of right plastic who makes the problem.

Playfield was pre drilled but they can be wrong. What puzzled me was that I can’t figure out what is wrong.

Quoted from tezting:

Original silk screened or?

Quoted from tezting:

I am Really thankful for all the help I get in this forum. A complete restoration gives a lot of Questions.
The left main ramp. What size/type rivets are used? I would like to take mine apart to polish it really good.[quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

I am Really thankful for all the help I get in this forum. A complete restoration gives a lot of Questions.
The left main ramp. What size/type rivets are used? I would like to take mine apart to polish it really good.[quoted image]

Quoted from jibmums:

There's another rivet tool called a Pintonka (for Pinball machines and Tonka trucks) that I use, runs about $100.
http://www.arbortime.mountainminded.net/html/the_better_tonka_rivet_tool_-_.html

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Post a picture of what you have.

Quoted from Manny65:

The T2 DMD panel had a bracket that went on one end - the bracket assembly is A-15022 which is made up of the bracket 01-10416 and rubber strip 23-6667 (pictured below). So you'll need this if you are putting in a standard DMD display (not familiar with what is required if installing of ColorDMD or other alternative display etc)[quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

Need help with the left ramp:
- What screws are used for the ramp to be mounted in the backplate?
- There is a small laneguide just after the five white targets. Should this guide be on the inside or outside of the ramp?
I have not pictures of those two places So need help once again.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from harig:

Only one is needed (on the right side)
Small spacers go unterneath[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Metroshica:

So recently my T2 started restarting during play and I'd love some help here if possible. I've been able to replicate the issue at least. It restarts when you hit the right flipper with a bit of force. Doesn't take much, here's a video to it happening:
I looked at the flipper connections and the right one seems completely fine. However, there seems to be something weird with the left one, though I doubt it's related to the issue. I've uploaded pictures of both of them here. You can see that there is a broken connection on the left flipper and that, uh, circular thing (sorry, not sure the term) seems to be missing a piece. I soldered the connection back together but every time I would start a game the left flipper would stay in the up position and it didn't fix the game restarting on right flipper hits. Any idea where I should start troubleshooting?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

That’s perfect. It’s “behind” the ramp.
Now I have two different answers?

Quoted from harig:

As promised[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from harig:

Hope those help[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

I am having big issues with my new ramp. No matter what I do I can’t get it to fit. Specially the ramp protectors can not be mounted. They have wrong angle and are way to high up from the post. Its to wide and to tall. I dont get it...
What is wrong??? I hope its just me who does not know how to mount it correctly.
Please help...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

I think they are original.
Here are som shots from different angels.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I guess I could drill new playfieldholes and maybe move it a little to the left. But it will not help on the height?

Quoted from tezting:

It’s here it does not fit. Look at the distance between the metal and the post.
Does your fit there?
Mine is about 1 cm to high. Can never bend it down that much.[quoted image]

Quoted from loscanones:

The ramp i replaced couple of years ago had the same issue. I just installed a little bit longer rubber post sleeve in order to cover the gap.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jibmums:

That metal post just to the lower left of your front pop bumper, the one that's just to the right of the terminator's finger - does that post or rubber get hit by the edge of the pop bumper ring when it triggers? My rubber was chewed up and the top of the metal post was worn down on the side from the ring scraping against it. Is that what all T2's are like?

Quoted from jibmums:

I don't get it though, if the post is so close that the ring is hitting it, how could any size rubber on the post not get chewed up too? I was planning to use my dremel to grind a semicircle out of the ring so that they don't touch at all. Here's a pic of mine, you can see how the side of the post is worn down and how the post has worn the edge of the ring. The hole for the post is in the same spot as other T2's, right on the outer black circle.[quoted image]

Quoted from epeabs:

My T2 restoration is coming along pretty well. Been working on the cabinet in between playfield work. This "new" skull is a piece of crap. Has anyone used a better mod? Maybe 3D printed or something along those lines.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

I've never seen one with a red target (or light) there, even back in the day playing it on locations.

Quoted from Malenko:

I've played a hand full, they all had red center targets and the one I bought also had a red center target.
I think mine was also a re-import.

Quoted from epeabs:

No matter how slow you are assembling things and look at all the parts, I hate when you come up with something as an "extra". Looking through all my photos I can't see where I had removed this from. Any clues?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from epeabs:

LOL. I had tumbled it with some parts from the playfield. Got the whole playfield assembled and looked down and said WTF. Thank you. Makes perfect sense now. Out of context assembling the playfield.

Quoted from jibmums:

I just got the Britemods LED skull eyes and I'm having a hell of a time getting them into the bulb holders. The skull is out of the machine so it's not a problem holding the head in one hand and pressing the bulbs with the other, it just feels like the wedge bases are too thick and don't want to fit into the sockets. Anyone else have this problem? What did you do? If I press any harder I'm worried that my hand is going to slip and I'll crush the skull.

Quoted from retroware99:

I just picked up a T2 with a bunch of minor issues and have most of them sorted. But, I have a somewhat embarrassing question. The knocker is not working and I am unable to identify the solenoid/assembly. It might be missing or I might just be an idiot. It was not at all clear from the manual were this is located. A picture or description of where this is located would be greatly appreciated.

Quoted from retroware99:

Ok, I'm sort of an idiot! Once malenko sent his picture I knew were it should go. But, mine is missing - I guess I'll need to use eyeamred2u's technique until I get a new assembly. Then, I went to check the manual and sure enough there it was called out in the upper right hand corner of the backbox - duhh.[quoted image]

Quoted from tezting:

I see. So it should make it.
Then I guess I have to adjust the switch.
It’s a new part? Is it to long?

Quoted from Sparky:

Anyone have or know where I can find the Sky Net Command Center plastic on the right ramp? Bracket would be good to have, too.
I'm hoping someone bought a new plastic set and has a used plastic, even if it's yellowed and not in the best is okay. It's completely missing from the game I'm working on for a friend.
I saw the "green" ones on ebay, but I want the regular one.
Thanks!

Quoted from Malenko:

mine came with various mods I bought. I have a spare set of the "T1" style cards if you want them.
[quoted image]
I can send them in an envelope, no worries just PM me a shipping address.
Now this......
[quoted image]
this puts a smile on my face. I just gotta plug everything back in ans hope it doesnt catch fire.

Quoted from Manny65:

Think that'll be a speaker wire - post a photo of J504 & J505 on your sound board and a photo of your backbox speakers and one of the cabinet speaker. T2's can have 2 different wiring setups from the factory, or you may have an upgraded speaker & wiring which no longer uses this wire.

Quoted from Manny65:

That loose black wire should go to a 4 pin connector by itself (identical to the 4 pin connector shown) , and is typically connected to pin 3 (could be pin 4 as they are tied together. It's a bit hard to tell from your photo, but I believe your existing 4 pin connector has 2 black-yellow wires going to pins 1 & 2 and the a single black wire going either 3 or 4 - right? In your photo, the single wire with the inline connector will connect to a single wire from the cabinet speaker, while the wire from other side of the cabinet speaker is the one missing the 4 pin connector.
J504 (right connector) and J505 (left connector) are identical - pins 1 & 2 are positive and pins 3 & 4 are ground
Black-yellow - positive wire (Pin 1 or 2 or either connector)
Black - negative wire (Pin 3 or 4 or either connector)

Quoted from retroware99:

That's pretty much what happens. But, the second ball is behind and somewhat sitting on top of the ball that is in the saucer. When the game goes into ball search it tries to kick the ball in the VUK but it sometimes jams on the second ball at which point I need to shut the game down and manually get the two balls out - which is a giant PITA.
It turns out that I had already ordered a new set of plastics which are going to arrive soon. Hopefully that will fix the issue.

Quoted from vandergugten:

The single black wire is probably J118-3. It connects to J1-2 on the motor regulator board mounted under the playfield. It provides Ground to the Cannon. Without this connection, the Cannon will move too fast, as mine did for the past 16 years
Please note: J116, J117 and J118 have identical pin-outs. So what's connected there could differ from the manual and from machine to machine. J116-3: "To cabinet" -> coin door, J118-3: "To Playfield" -> Cannon.[quoted image]

Quoted from retroware99:

I got the ball popper cap and corresponding dowel. A quick question: does the dowel just friction fit into the small hole near the tip of the plunger/armature? It seemed to be really tight and I was worried that I was missing something so I backed off. Thanks.

Quoted from Malenko:

I sent my original apron to mr_tantrum and he made me a replacement one that looks factory. Shoot him a PM.

Quoted from Yelobird:

Try looking at the “Images Gallery” of this thread (top of page). You’ll find dozens of pictures of that area and assembly provided by owners. Like the one below.
[quoted image]

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Removed the old messy EL wire that wasn't working anyway, and then FINALLY got around to installing the loot crate skull. Took a lot of doing, but WOW was it worth the effort.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from amxfc3s:

Hey guys. I'm just finishing up a t2 restoration and have some extra plastics and stuff. Some are new, some used, some original, some aftermarket. What would be a fair price for everything? Also, can someone help me figure out where the plastic in the second picture goes? Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Top right corner of playfield

Quoted from Aphex:

do you have a better picture of that area?

Quoted from Aphex:

nice, how did you attach it to the horse shoe piece of metal? drill a hole and use a metal screw + bolt to secure it?

Quoted from Langless28:

Anyone do a shop job recently that could help me with these ring sizes? The rubber kit I got was wrong and I didn’t find any good documentation on exactly what size these are supposed to be. Marked them in color for an easy response.
[quoted image]

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Sorry for the delay in my response, I forgot I'd posted here the other day so wasn't checking.

I drilled a hole in the metal bracket (that's some tough material!) and put a screw through it and into the skull. Unfortunately, the screw head was slightly blocking the ball entrance, so I elevated the skull and bracket on the black spacers.
[quoted image]

Quoted from smcclain65:

So i am still having issues with the drop target but have resolved most of them. The drop target drops when hit and goes back up as it is supposed to. But i am still getting an error on switch 71. which is the drop target high switch. From what i can tell there is only one switch on the drop target and it triggers when the drop target is hit and drops. I cant find a high switch. Also it looks like only half of the skull target is visible when fully up so i am assuming thats part of the problem as well. But it still plays fine.
Any advice?

Quoted from pinball_customs:

I still make them.
Gotta say, it kinda sucks when I see other modders ripping off a mod I created..

Quoted from daveddd14:

Joined the club yesterday, re-import, lots of work to do, great price. This will be my “lockdown” project.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

When the ball is kicked back into play where does it go? Typically it will run partially up the chase loop and on some machines it'll even go all the way up into the top roll over lanes.

Quoted from Manny65:

Haha yup typical - fix one thing and another thing fails. Gotta love pinball!!

Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

WTB: T2 project...I have repro playfield in its way! Any leads appreciated.

Quoted from Manny65:

What coil do you have on the plunger? Looking at the manual it's a AE-23-800 and https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html shows it should have a resistance of 4.2 ohms

Quoted from Manny65:

Yep that's what I suspect is the case - let's us know what you find

Quoted from Manny65:

This is the trough mech (the outhole is under the apron and loads the balls into the trough). Remove the balls and lift the playfield, try manually moving the trough mech - the arm should swing up to strike the ball, kicking it into the shooter lane. Sometimes the mech needs to be adjusted in the screw holes for the arm to strike the center of the ball, however yours doesn't seem to have the full travel. You might need to replace the coil sleeve or something may have gone wrong with the mech. If it has the full travel and nothing seems to be causing resistance, go into solenoid test and test the coil (with the playfield up), if it seems to be working then it might just need to be adjust to strike the ball better