It will work.

LTG : )

Not sure I understand the question, but what you're holding there is an orange/amber (or possibly red) colored 555 (wedge) LED with a frosted dome. you can replace it with any 555/wedge LED of any color or form-factor... But for the record, its exceptionally rare that LED's fail.

Super excited to be rejoining the club...
Well I rejoined a month or two back, but pulled the machine down completely.

Doing a chrome edition again, and also doing one for a friend at the same time after just finishing his Afm.

Going with brand new cabinets, custom pf and plastics.
I dug out my old pinsound mix, where I modified Arnie's call outs alot by changing the pitch mainly. Still a lot of work to do..and stuff to add after watching the movie again last week. Really looking forward to it.

I really miss my other one, such a fun game and theme and the sound and customising takes it to next level fir me.

Here is a pic of the translite I am doing for it.
Will keep updating as the project progresses.

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Yup, you were correct, upon further investigation it looks like the socket is cracked down the middle. And now I have another search>...

Intended to post this sooner, but I've been busy and forgot about it til now!

I've been printing colored posts as one of the 3D-printed products for my side hustle, Rocket City Pinball (https://rocketcitypinball.com). I found this fantastic filament which, when combined with my custom model and print settings, makes the posts look like stainless steel. As expected, they look SICK when installed in T2, since the chrome/steel look is such a part of this game. Posts are available via my Pinside shop or my website, links below the pics.

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Pinside shop link: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04982-steel-posts-kit-for-terminator-2-not-actual-steel
Website link: https://rocketcitypinball.com

Anyone knows what part nr this plastic has? It seems to be the exact same this as the one under it, which os not correct according to some info I found, but not sure. Maybe someone can check the sizes of these 2 plastics on your machine?

Anyway, just need to replace that middle broken plastic, i think it is one of these:

31-1-50013-23
Or:
31-1-50013-12

Anyone?

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The middle one is 31-1-50013-23.

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Also note that the 2 plastics are different

IIRC the artwork is the same but there are additional mounting holes on the top one

Big thanks!

Well, I'm back on the club. After selling my first T2 about 4 years ago, I finally got another back. This time BIGGER. Fully restored, HSA cleared playfield, chrome decal package, black powder coat throughout, re-chromed metal parts/ramps, color DMD, key mods, restored cabinet, all new switches throughout and the list goes on. An to "top" it all off, I have a one-of-a-kind topper. It's huge. You can see it sitting on my love seat couch to show you how big it is. It was taken from an old T2 gun game. I plan to tweak it a bit and have it above/on the head. Eyes light up and there is a strip below that lights up the entire topper.

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Hello Everyone!

I'm new to the pinball hobby and have picked myself up a neat original T2 as my first pin.

I have a couple of questions I was hoping some of you knowledgeable folk could help me figure out.

1 - Where I can get, or how do I identify these red plastic pieces at the top of the playfield above the pop numbers? One is missing and a couple others are broken. I am located in Aus but happy to order internationally if i have to.

2 - what is everyones opinion for a solution on the terminator eye on the playfield as seen in picture? Is it as easy as cutting a circle out of black sticker and replacing?

3 - There is what looks to be a main earth wire going to this spot where the lock is meant to be at the top of the backbox.. is that right or is something here amiss? I will be getting a replacement clip to lock the translite in.

4 - when the ball is returning from the left ramp to the left flipper, the ball bounces off a rubber stopper at the bottom and back up the rail, before falling in to the return lane. Is there a way to stop this? The right one returns as I expect where the left does this bounce.

4 - is the skill shot aim variable in anyway? As you always seem to be aiming for the same target

5 - finally what is your opinion on modding or updating this machine? is it best to leave original incandescent lighting and original DMD as it is all currently working fine? Although the lights do feel a little dull, I don't want to ruin the collectors aspect that comes with owning such an item.

I eagerly await your advice and responses.

Thank you!!

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Download the manual and parts list from ipdb.org - this will help you identify the part numbers
In Aust you'll get parts from RTBB, Pinball Spare Parts Australia (PSPA) and Mr Pinball. If they don't have the parts available, use https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0 to find what suppliers around the world have the part number you're after

The playfield insert are lifting and the ball is chipping the edge of the insert and the artwork off the insert. For a quick fix, you could put a black cutout over the eyes and then lay down a larger piece of mylar to protect the insert edges - however this won't address the inserts being raised and the potential ball deflection it may cause. To do it properly you'll need to at doing or getting the playfield restored.

The metal plate and lock for the translite are earthed.

Might just need to slightly adjust the angle of the steel plate with the rubber stopper attached. Check the rubber hasn't gone hard and causing more bounce back.

No but every successful direct hit during a game will cause the lights to scroll faster.

Whether you have it as a players machine, decide to restore to original condition or modify to your liking is really up to you and how much money you're prepared to spend - everybody is different and likes different things. Switching out the incandescents for LEDs is pretty standard thing to do

Thanks for your detailed reply!

I had actually already consulted the T2 parts manual but I could not identify these red light covers in there.

I have narrowed the search to part # 03-8205-9 which is a single sided red cover, which seems to be the same as each of the light covers on my machine, however some shops also have it listed as # 03-8204-9 which is a double sided cover.

As mine seem to be broken, can anyone confirm what the correct original covers are for T2? Are all these covers single sided 03-8205-9 from factory or a mix of both?

Who is the go to person/company in Aus, or more specifically Melbourne to look at getting the playfield restored?

Thanks again!

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As you stated above there are two single sided covers on the far left and right side (probably to avoid the close by plastics get their colors washed out by red light) and two double sided covers mounted in the middle

Grab the Part List from https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524 and then search the part numbers - what you'll find is that T2 uses 2 single and 2 double sided parts. The single sided are used on the outer posts, while the double sided are used on the 2 inner posts. You may find that suppliers don't have the single sided version, but you could get a doubled sided one and cut one of the sides off - this way all will be identical colouring etc

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The 2 guys I know of, are Tim Reid at http://hotroddedpins.com/ or Scott Seedsman at https://www.facebook.com/aimpinballservices/

Couple of issues with my newly acquired T2:

1. The right lower standup targets for the kickback relight acting strange. Sometimes the lights work, sometimes off. They still register if hit and will relight kickback, but the associated lights don't come on. Sometimes the flash on during the game and then go off again. I have fiddled with the wedge sockets and sometimes they come on, but eventually go off again.

2. During the start up of a game, I hit the skill shot and all of a sudden a multiball started. I'm sure that's not suppose to happen. Any thoughts on what to check?

Thanks.

1. Cold solder joints are common at the header connection on the small PCB that those wedge sockets plug into. Try wiggling the connector to see if you get any response. It's best to remove the old solder and add new solder, otherwise, you can probably get away with reflowing the existing solder and just adding a little fresh solder while doing so.

2. Odd behavior, my first thought is trough switches? Check that all 3 of them are acting properly in test with and without balls. Otherwise, another switch issue somewhere but I've never seen this happen myself.

Thanks, great idea! Now, the new problem I have is it's too high for a 8 foot ceiling.

OK, thanks for everyone's help. I have most of the issues fixed now. The light board for the relight kickback was fixed just by unplugging and replugging connector.

Last issue: sometimes when I shoot the ball into skull, a ball gets stuck behind up into skull. I don't know if it's the speed and timing, but wonder what folks have done to manage ball locks or balls getting stuck in or around the skull.

Thanks.

Several versions of side blades for T2. What do you recommend?

B/W released a service bulletin for this - their answer was to install a large foam block (soft) into the cavity to stop the ball from getting in there

I have these on mine and they look great.

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Thanks Manny!

Those are nice, but I prefer mirrored blades for T2.

Ditto. I have mirrors on mine and love the way it looks

Okay guys, I have recently picked up a T2, after getting it home I realized it’s needs some work. I’ve decided to swap out the coin door, it’s got a European door, I was able to acquire a new US door but I’m noticing the new door seems to be missing a bracket. Specifically the spot that holds the switch/ sensor that tells the pin whether the door is open or closed.

On the US T2 was the switch on the pin versus the door? Hopefully I didn’t confuse everybody with the description, help is always appreciated.

Thanks

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On my T2, the interlock switch is mounted onto the inside of the coin-door frame --- like your picture.

However, on other pins, such as TZ, the switch is actually on the inside of the cabinet.

The Entropy 2 slot coin door was the default US coin door for the T2 - as seen on the promo video and flyers. This coin door was used in Sys11 and early WPC machines and had the coin door switch mounted in the door frame.

The version you have is the 3 slot variant that was used for some foreign countries.

Without knowing what type of new door you bought, if its an Entropy, you can swap the new door itself to the old frame. There are typically 3 screws that attach the door assembly to the frame. The frame is the same for all styles of the door assembly.

What have I got myself into? Picked up 2 T2's that were heavily routed and put up wet. looks like they were bush fixed till they stopped working. Slingshot rubbers where cut and put back together by wrapping with wire, guess they couldn't be bothered to take the plastic off to replace them. The one should really be parts but the harness isn't chopped so I'm going to rebuild both.

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Nice pickup - the first one looks alright (no flipper drag marks or chipping around the inserts) and should clean up nicely. The second one needs more work but you've got most of it there from the pics (more than one of my T2 projects) - the boards in the backbox will be easy to replace, what's the under side of the PF like - are there any missing mechs?

Yeah luckily all the mechs are there and its just missing flipper parts and bulb sockets. I found a sticker for the wear spots on the bad playfield which will be a lot easier then trying to touch up before I clearcoat.

I'm really hoping you picked this up for next to nothing, OR nothing, but its salvageable AF!
You might be a bit upside-down in it value-wise when you're done, but if you plan to keep it...

The goal is to be able to sell one that will mostly cover the costs of both. So I end up out of pocket $1000 for the one I keep.

I've got a used playfield if anyone is looking:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/114554

Playfield has been sold....

I'm out guys, been a member a long time but you can welcome DorkInAbox with open arms

Just curious, how long did the new one take to put in? Mulling it over for mine since some of the inserts took a beating over time / use.

I'm guessing I had 25-30 hours into it. Now keep in mind that includes stripping the old one, cleaning/rebuilding/fixing mechs, and then reassembling everything with new parts, plastics, rubbers, leds, etc....

T2 Target Decals 30% for limited time only
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/01656-t2-target-and-metal-guide-decal-set
Use code PCD8-MAQX-VXE3-5PMU at checkout
Free shipping on orders over $50

High quality and look great on T2, I would recommend!

Was playing T2 last night... game felt a little strange like a mod was running long. Eventually realized after a drain that a ball was stuck and the ball search couldn't find it.

Found the ball here. First time it has been stuck there in 15 years.IMG_4866 (resized).JPG

Hey guys I have a project t2 I’m just kind of starting. I was just looking around and found a small coil hanging. I think it’s for the single drop target possibly the reset part of the mechanism. Can anyone get me pictures of their mechanism to show me how it goes back together or what I need to get it to mount back in there. Not sure if these pics help at all. I can’t see how the coil is held in place there

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Not exactly the same as yours. Maybe give you an idea - It's from a WOZ.

LTG : )

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Williams issued a Service Bulletin for this issue, where they installed a large soft foam block in the skull cavity to stop balls getting accidentally lodged in there. https://www.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_33.pdf

Thanks!

I hadn't seen that SB before.

The small coil is held in place by a screw and washer - you should be able to slide the coil into place and then put the screw in from underneath the bracket (screws into the coil core). Possibly you'll find the screw & washer in the bottom of the cabinet. The 2nd pic shows how the actuator arm is positioned at rest and the 3rd pic is with the actuator arm pulled down (this is what the coil does) - note you shouldn't need to change/adjust as I believe the screw has simply come undone and let the coil fall out.

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