Awesome mod. I think there would be plenty of demand if you decided to sell this. I would be in.

Me too and dont even have a t2!

I am obviously interested in this mod! Great job!

Did I see t2 blink? Great mod. I'd be interested.

Awesome mod I'd take 2 kits if they get made.

Definitely interested.

Would it fit a Loot Crate Terminator skull or just the original skull?

Great job! I'm in.

I have installed 5 LEDs in a T10 socket. Here 3 cables go out the side. The normal electrical connections are not used. So the rest could stay as it is. Just replace the lamps with these LEDs. The cables then go to a board with a processor, which then controls the eyes depending on the 7 upper flasher.

LED (resized).png

Great solution - very easy to add (and remove) the mod to the existing platform

A new weekend, a new project. Unfortunately, not so well done. Nevertheless, it would like to share with you.

I had tried to design a T-1000 mod for the T2 Pinball. I wanted to place a figure over the 3 stand up targets. Once a shot was successful , should be simulated a shot like in the movie. Noticeable there are the silver circles that look like liquid metal.
In the game, the inserts then slowly start to flash. They simulate that the T-1000 recovers and the bullets become smaller. This was also simulated here in the mod by white and blue LEDs. The white light slowly becomes darker and it even appears blue towards the end. Unfortunately, it doesn't look as good on the video as it does in real life.
Technically I find this quite well implemented. I have nevertheless removed it from the machine, because it is too much gimmick for me. Besides, a real figure doesn't fit into the basically drawn design.

Another brilliant idea! A quicker and smoother fade-off of the LED's would nail the effect!

When an insert lights up, so does the hole on the T-1000. It's a mix of white and blue. But you can't see that in the video.
If the insert flashes, then another hit must follow. The flashing slowly gets faster. If it is not hit, the inserts go off again.

With the mod I wanted to implement it in this way:
Bright when the insert flashes slowly
darker when it flashes faster.... very fast blinking -> Lights are nearly off, glimmer blue

Unfortunately the timing is my problem here. The blinking is not constant enough to derive a brightness from it.
Also, the blinking seems to be in steps and in addition, the time to shoot down becomes shorter as the game progresses.

I'm in as well! I love both the mods! Definitely want the eyes!

Hey guys. I broke the lower chase loop switch when i was taken the pf out and i have installed a new switch. But while in switch test it does not activate. I have the schematic but sure how to read where the switch 65 is on the board so i can check the components. While looking at the switch matrix how do i find it on the schematic? Thanks

You wired the switch back up exactly how it originally wired? Was the game on when the switch was damaged and you believe other components were damged on the MPU or driver board?

Here is a good resource that is found on Pinwiki.com

WPC-089MPULayout (resized).jpg

Did you wire it correctly? Post a picture.

Yes i wired up the same as the other. Pretty sure it was off when i put it back in. This is the original switch. I took a puc before desoldering

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Get rid of that lug connector and solder those wires. That connection is not reliable.

Ok. I will try that.

Is there a post or process for setting the gun to find the home position? My gun will randomly just start swing back and forth and I have seen in test mode, gun can not locate home?

Thanks for the help, oh and I am going to look into the skull ball sensor when the ball gets locked in the skull sometimes it does not regrister but when the machine does a ball search it finds it and I get to "load the cannon" and shoot.

In test mode, move the cannon to where it lines up with the wireform from the skull. Then lift the PF and adjust the home switch (pictured below) such that it is closed.
T2 cannon switches (resized).jpg

Just need to adjust the switch (#9 in the diagram)

T2 VUK (resized).jpg

Got rid of the connector and all is good. Thanks.

Im still having an issue with sometimes when plunging for the skill shot and the skill shot is made, it starts multiball. I have cleaned and adjusted the plunger like had been seen in a previous post but that has not worked for me.

It happens once every few games. Anyone have a fix?

Thanks

I think you said previously that the CPU board doesn't have any battery damage. It is a weird issue, yet Navystan had a similar problem - I'd probably go back to basics and go into edge switch test mode, take a pic of which switches are currently closed, then check each and every switch watching the matrix display on the DMD for multiple switch activation. Also try bumping the PF and nudging the machine to see if any switches are being triggered.

If nothing has come to light, take the glass off and play some games - when the issue occurs, grab the balls as they are being shot out and then immediately go into edge switch test mode and check what switches are closed (compare this to the pic that you took in the above tests). Let us know how you get on

Guys! I need some opinions for this playfield protector that I bought online.
Unlike other protectors, this one is covering the whole playfield. It came missing a bunch of holes, so I have put LOTS of time into making new holes.
Now it looks like in the pic below.
I compared it to the more known protector, which has cuts in several places. I marked these places with blue line.

Do I dare to put the protector on the game as it is, or should I cut it according to the blue lines? If don´t like the idea of cutting it since I already put that much time into it, but my concern is that there will probably be stuff holding it down if I don´t cut it. Like the ramps. I read that the protector shouldn´t be held by nothing so that it is allowed to be flexible when temperature etc changes.

Opinions? Should I try as it is or will I regret it?

prot (resized).jpg

What nonsense is that?

Ball is going to make a nice jump when going from shooter lane to playfield ...

I think it looks good the clear coat it is a plastic coating too so i can not see a temp expansion issue if its kept in your home , the protector is so thin i wonder if the ball will not be too effected on the skill shot . i have one on my big game they gave me shims for the drop targets, the only other thing i would be concern with is if the play field barriers are lifted do you have enough thread on posts to attach stuff, other wise it looks like a lot of work and your getting it done

Thanks, I will go ahead and install the protector as it is right now, cross my fingers that I will not regret it
It is only 0.5mm thick (PETG/VIVAK) so I hope it don´t affect too much. Someone above wrote that the ball will jump when going from shooter lane to pf, but I really hope that will not be the case due to only 0.5mm thickness.

If the plunger is wired up, you could go in solenoid test and test plunging the ball now

If there are any issues you could always use a piece of 2 of mylar to make a smoother transition onto the protector.

also test the ball hop over the one drop target in to the vuk,

If any of you guys bought an insert decal set and did not use the hot dog shaped "auto fire ball rescue" decal (by the flippers) i'd buy it. I'd prefer not buy an entire set to just get one decal. Not sure if that one is normally worn on everyone's machine or not.

While you might get lucky, that is a common wear area

“I’ll be back.”

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with a Hunter Ship!

Good catch! That was an older pic, I forgot I even had to replace that thing. Here it is today.

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Looks great.
I consider to replace also all GI bulbs with LEDs.
Any suggestions? The GI should be stable (no AC flickering)

I went with Comet 2SMD bulbs with an LED OCD. In my opinion that combination looks the best.

Thanks. I used comet 2smd warm white in the GI. Then a mix of 2smd comet warm and cool white for inserts. I don’t get any flickering.

Got my T2 in last tuesday. At start i get 3 bongs and checksum error on U18 soundboard. Took IC out and back in and reseated ribbon cables but no effect. Anything else I can do than order a new IC and if so will I be sure it's fixed ?
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Are you getting sound from the machine other than the 3 bongs? Recheck the ribbon cables to make sure they are seated and not misaligned. Other than that you have a sound chip problem. Also check the holder for the sound chips and make sure you don't have any cold solder joints on the back. Maybe a quick reflow wouldn't hurt.

No I have other sounds and music, don't know what I'm missing in fact.
Do you know what sounds U18 is producing ?
The holder looks ok on the front side but will do some resoldering, won't hurt.

Unrelated post.

I am tempted to attempt building my own T2 from scratch, I am about to finish my power drv board and cpu. Next I would need a cab.
Ambitious but doable.

I really dont want to buy a beat up T2..

Wondering if anybody here has cad files for ball guides and other metal parts?
Would also need any information related to the wiring harness.

Thanks in advance.

I have a parts T2 I bought years ago that I am about to attempt and put back together also. They stole what now would be a lot of common parts but I guess back then you couldn't find. Mine still had some of the what i would call hard to find parts like the cannon mech, wire forms and ramps. Parts that were taken were the flipper mechs and coil brackets for the slings and some of the other bow comment parts. It also missing all the boards but aging now those are all available. Going to hopefully be able to get it back to life and trade it for something since we already have another T2 in our collection.
Good luck on your build.

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or maybe you want to sell that PF to me

Hi guys,

ok I just recently acquired a t2 pinball and I have a question. ok so when I start up a game the kickback insert is also lite, but when the ball drains down left lane the kickback coil doesn't acknowledge the ball to hit it back into playfield. I have down coil test the coil fires fine. Is the kickback a random action or do I have to trigger something in the game to make it save the ball so to speak? any help is great. thanks

Looks like your switch in front of the kickback is not working. That’s likely the reason that your kickback do not fire during the game. Do the switch test and see what happen