This is amazing, thanks so much! Really hard for me to NOT get a pinsound board now...

Has anybody found any good single LED replacements for the pop bumper bulbs? I've tried a bunch of red, orange, white of different types and nothing looks as good as the incandescent bulbs. I know about the Britecaps LED rings and may go that route in the future if no other single LED looks good enough.

Thanks I'll have to try those! Are you using the red LED with the stock red cap?

Does anybody else with the BriteEyes mod notice they get really hot? Doesn't seem normal

Installed a DMD Extender with LCD screen to replace the old orange DMD. Using red colors looks great

DMDext3.jpg

What kind of LEDs are you guys using for the 2 GI sockets behind the 3 red standup targets? I have natural white GI all over which looks great, but it's too bright in this location since you have a direct line of sight to the LEDs.

11 ohms but you can use a 10 ohm since they are more widely available.

Here you go. I have since replaced that nasty J115 with a new connector with crimp connections.

PWRconnector1.jpg

PWRconnector2.jpg

PWRconnector3.jpg

PWRconnector4.jpg

Is there anywhere else to buy the pinbits hunter ship protector? They are out of stock of both types (blue tail and red tail) and have not responded to emails. I do not want to buy the one from the UK on eBay, it's way too expensive and obnoxious.

Do not purchase the endoskull from Marco Specialties! I read some reviews in this thread stating it was a good reproduction. The picture on their website reflects this, it's a picture of the stock skull. What I received was much different. Much lower quality missing many of the molded details and has some details just painted on. I contacted Marco about this and they said that's just how it is, they checked their stock and they are all the same from their licensed Williams supplier. This brand new reproduction looks worse than my damaged original skull!

skull2.jpg

skull3.jpg

skull4.jpg

Marco actually updated their product image today due to my complaint. Here is the old picture that was on their website:

marcoskulloldadpic1.jpg

And the new picture which shows the crap skull you will get when ordering from them:

marcoskullnewadpic1.jpg

Has anybody RECENTLY purchased a skull from someone and received the correct original replacement? I'm not putting this cheap replica in my game.

I didn't think the HK ship was nearly as bad as the skull. I'll still use Marco's hunter ship.

hunter1.jpg

I prefer the pinbits hunter ship mod. Less than half the price and isn't too overpowering. It looks great!

You can do this, all of the files are customizable with the Pinsound board. Just copy over the stock voice tracks with the original soundtrack background music.

So does pinbits. It has a microcontroller which has a controlled flashing pattern, and is also hooked into the flasher circuit to register when a direct hit is achieved.

Do the security level inserts work otherwise in attract mode? Both ball switches working on both ramps?

None of the alternate translites are as good as the original IMO. Why would you want to replace that beautiful artwork???

Not sure what Rock means by "underground seller" but the alternate translites are available here: http://www.pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/d1112_Translite_Translites_Williams_Flipperkast_pinball.html

This I would like to know too

There are currently no reproduction original translites available unless you find somebody sitting on old stock.

I use all comet LEDs in my T2 and they work great. I color matched most of the inserts and used cool white for the the GI. You can save money by using standard LEDs if you just install the ghost patched ROM. This way you don't have to pay extra for the non-ghosting LEDs, and with the ROM patch you experience zero ghosting or flicker. They look great, and I highly recommend Comet due to their great quality and superior customer service.

They are sold here:

http://www.pinballwizard.nl/contents/en-us/d1112_Translite_Translites_Williams_Flipperkast_pinball.html

Their H-K ship is ok but the skull is garbage. Just look at the picture on their website since they updated it to be correct. Starship has a better molded skull.

See here for my experience with marco skull:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/56#post-2140236

Yes but on T2 the time setting has no use.

Why do the speaker lights look so different on each side?

Just asking because the BriteSound mod has them looking the same

http://www.pinballlife.com/images/products/secondary/wslk_01-1.jpg

They actually come with diffusers now and look much smoother, couldn't find a T2 pic but same product:

http://www.pinballlife.com/images/products/preview/wslk_01.jpg

I considered it, but chose not to light the speakers.

You are looking for a nut driver.

How good did it feel pulling off that film?

I've been following your build and it looks amazing. You should consider adding these more realistic eye LEDs: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3256

Where do you guys want cliffys? T2 is pretty durable

It's not hard to install LEDs and not break stuff You can even use cheaper regular LEDs (don't need noghost or noflicker) if you install the ROM patch. Works just as good as noghost LEDs but much cheaper. I use Comet for all LEDs.

Pinbits ship protector is the best and less than half the cost of the version on eBay

A dab of hot glue works well and can easily be removed if needed.

I highly recommend the pinbits protector with LEDs. They are programmed to flash very nicely in some different patterns. They are usually out of stock but if you email them they will make one for you and tell you when it's ready to click buy.

You need a security T25 bit. The Amazon link posted above is is good. If you have a Menard's nearby they also carry a security Torx bit set.

You would install it on the left side of the shooter lane

Joey just look back a few posts. You can either replace it with a stronger version or add a support to the existing design.

Yep they are fragile. Not difficult to replace.

They are stock. Anybody who thinks otherwise is wrong.

No protectors on mine. No issues so far in a home environment.

The only con is that you have to install them when you otherwise wouldn't....

A failed shot up the right ramp can easily go sdtm on my game depending on how far up the ramp it goes before it comes back down.

It's personal preference. If you're happy with how it plays then leave it. Otherwise increase slope to speed up the game or vice versa.

I had the same complaint. I switched them out with frosted red leds and it's much easier on the eyes.

Test switch continuity when operating it. If good, check the diode. If good, check the wiring.

You will need new connectors, crimp contacts, and header pins for each connection.

Almost all the time during a game. Then off immediately after. Then back on most of the time.

Depending on the angle of attack the protector can prevent the ship from flexing quite a bit. It does offer some actual protection.

27C040 or any other compatible 4 megabit eprom will do. I recommend applying the attract sound hack if the occasional smashing together of the T2 logo annoys you (it annoyed me).

That is correct.

I use the stock FL-11630 coils. No need for anything stronger on this game.

Not Marco! I got mine from Starship Fantasy and it's decent.

The topper looks great but I also don't like the repeated Terminator 2 text.

I hope not, they spelled Judgment wrong.

LEDs look great in T2 and you have as many options as you can think of. You can buy cheaper LEDs that do not have noghost or noflicker features and remove the ghosting in software very easily by patching it.

I emailed them when I bought mine a bit over a year ago, and they emailed me about 2 weeks later when they had one in stock for me to order. I also used the contact form on their website and received the reply from Pam Reynolds.

Are you receiving an error message or just no reply back?

I agree. The stock FL-11630 coils hit every shot very well in my game (if I aim them right!)

Yes, there is a ROM hack to remove that slamming noise from the attract mode.

Yes you can keep playing and yes it will get worse over time. You can put a piece of mylar over the damage to prevent it from getting worse and bend that flap back down so it's resting on the mylar.

Try emailing [email protected]

That's about going rate for a new HK ship. I would purchase from Starship Fantasy if they offer it just based on my experience with their skull. Marco's skull looks like crap and Starship's looked much closer to original.

:O

If it's in perfect shape with absolutely zero playfield wear or other issues then $2500 is fair.

Service bulletin #32
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2524/Williams_1991_Terminator_2_Judgment_Day_Service_Bulletin_32.pdf

TPA uses the same original audio.

There are no optos in T2, but yes the drop target microswitch is located directly underneath and attached the drop target assembly. You can't miss it.

Here is a diagram of the drop target assembly if it may help. I agree that spring needs to be connected to swiftly pull down the drop target to engage the microswitch.

T2drop_(resized).png

No - the spring is attached to the drop target on one end and the bracket on the other end, no direct contact with the microswitch. It's #17 in the diagram I posted. Make sure that spring is connected properly, and then test the microswitch to make sure it is being triggered when the target drops.

What a timely question. Check the few dozen posts just before yours as scamp was working through similar issues.

That is bad ass!

My T2 does not auto shoot after the first pass. It would be even harder to hit the moving super jackpot if that was the case.

I am using the latest ROM L-8 which does not autofire the cannon.

People should run the cannon test in the service menu. This will help you figure things out.

T2 is not a fliptronics game, it uses the 1988-1991 Williams rebuild kit and it should include capacitors.

The capacitor is for spark suppression at the contacts. The game will work fine without the caps, but the EOS life will be shortened.

You are correct, they can be installed in either direction.

I'm not near my game to check, but shouldn't the drop target go DOWN during ball search? Wouldn't going up allow a ball to get trapped behind the target?

So you are asking if insert decals are common? Not sure what the issue is.

You will likely never fry another connector after switching to LEDs. There will be much less current running through it. You may even be able to get by without replacing the pins. It's always a best practice to replace pins when replacing connectors, but not always necessary. My T2 GI issues were solved by replacing the connector. I did nothing with the pins.

T2GI_(resized).png

Also check connector J115 as that is the most common cause of GI issues.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

Plastics on both side of the skull are broken, the left one just at the lower tip which is very common. Mine is broken the same way and I'm not even bothered to fix it.

Very nice looking. The only reason I wouldn't want to change it is my Pinbits ship protector/LEDs wouldn't fit and I love that thing so much it makes the stock ship good enough. The NECA one has incredible detail though. Even though it's die cast, hopefully that tail can take some ball strikes without breaking.

Not much to adjust for that other than the left/right centering of the standup targets. Are they all pointing up straight and not leaning one way or the other?

Always worth checking!

Yes the drop target triggers the switch when it drops.

drop (resized).png

This is normal, and a defect in the code in my opinion. There is a modified ROM to fix this and remove those sounds so attract mode is completely silent.

Interesting setup with the additional display in the coin door. Are you using a DMD Extender or some other hardware to mirror the DMD?

And the ship is backwards....

I think it fits the theme pretty well. I recommend adding the Pinbits LED protector to it as well. It not only protects the ship but it has built-in LEDs and microcontroller to give a few different light shows.

I want to emphasize it's from Pinbits. There is another version available on eBay that is more expensive and less elegant IMO!

Pam is really busy and can be hard to get a hold of sometimes. I would call her again.

Looks good but yikes, I wouldn't want to work on it if there are ever any issues in the future.

He also made a thread here on pinside for the repro T2 playfields. I have heard great things about their quality but have no personal experience with them.

The new playfields won't be ready for a few months at best if that makes you feel better.

I wouldn't call it hideous. At least it's very similar to the original skull minus the sloppy black paint.

Now Marco's skull, that is fugly!

skull (resized).jpg

No. First off you have a broken left side plastic which is missing the front mounting hole and allowing the whole assembly to rotate. The skull is mounted to the plastic with L brackets with 2 screws into the plastic and 2 rivets into the skull. The skull movement forward and back could be a combination of the first issue and/or loose L brackets screws or rivets.

Cool white GI works best IMO. T2 is not a theme for yellowish warm white, but I agree going straight up blue or purple looks bad.

After ruling out the bulbs, check the bulb PCB for cold solder joints at the header since that is a very common problem and it's also very easy to fix. Sometimes the pads where the bulb socket screws in need to be reflowed as well if they are very worn.

I think a piece of mylar should work well to prevent the worn area from getting worse.

Knowing nothing else, assume worst case scenario of the DMD board and DMD itself are both bad. Take $500 off whatever you would pay for a working T2.

A multimeter can also verify the DMD board is outputting the proper voltages to drive the display.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power

The skull is missing the L bracket. The skull side of the bracket is riveted to the skull, and the bottom side of the bracket attached to the plastic with a bolt and nut. You can replace the rivet on the skull side with bolt and nut if needed, use a nylon lock nut.

Looks good but your terminator eyes look goofy. Get these:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3256

Many people have, including myself. It seems high but it's worth my time not to have to try and customize something myself that might not look as good.

That looks pretty good. The only thing missing is the red color when the eyes are off. If you used a different LED with the same trim washers it would look almost identical to the PBL ones. Can you link to which trim washers you used?

Pops back out on it's own without the coil popping it out? There is an angled piece of steel that directs the ball down into the saucer similar to the database lock. Have you taken a close look back there to make sure nothing is loose?

This sounds like a mechanical issue, not a switch issue. The ball should lock in the saucer even without any power to the game.

Right outlane

You can't find it how? Search this thread for the word profanity.

But there are 5 Terminator movies!

It was still entertaining at points... not great but it's still a Terminator flick.

That left side skull plastic is broken, bottom tip is missing. Same as the one on my game any many others, just fyi.

Brite eyes are must have. I like the hunter ship mod from Pinbits (not the more expensive one from the UK on eBay), T1000 looks ok. T800 and police car are cheesy and do not look good IMO.