(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 8,674 posts
  • 615 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 minutes ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 227 Pinsiders

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There are 8674 posts in this topic. You are on page 174 of 174.
#8651 64 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

Hey guys I have a project t2 I’m just kind of starting. I was just looking around and found a small coil hanging. I think it’s for the single drop target possibly the reset part of the mechanism. Can anyone get me pictures of their mechanism to show me how it goes back together or what I need to get it to mount back in there. Not sure if these pics help at all. I can’t see how the coil is held in place there
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you are missing the screw & washer and need to replace them, note that they are brass to magnetically isolate the bracket from the coil core. Here are the part numbers if you need to replace them and if you are in the US then Marco has them all in stock
pasted_image (resized).png

Edit: I didn't see the lock washer used on mine (although I didn't pull it apart), so it might not have been used

1 week later
#8652 54 days ago

Hi all; I’ve got a terminator missing the Playfield plastics on the left side of the head (colored Playfield plastic to the left of the head with a piece of clear plastic stacked over it)

I need to order those two plastics and the appropriate stand offs and screws. Anyone have detailed pictures of that area or the list of parts for the standoffs and screws?

#8653 53 days ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Hi all; I’ve got a terminator missing the Playfield plastics on the left side of the head (colored Playfield plastic to the left of the head with a piece of clear plastic stacked over it)
I need to order those two plastics and the appropriate stand offs and screws. Anyone have detailed pictures of that area or the list of parts for the standoffs and screws?

Check out this documented teardown http://creamyeagle.blogspot.com/2014/05/terminator-2-pinball-tear-down.html

Also the Parts List from IPDB will given you all the specific part numbers that are used - look at the components that make up A-14933 "skull plfd plastic assy"

And if you are replacing 31-1-50013-16 (plastic on the left side of the skull) then you should consider replacing both the left & right plastics (ie 31-1-50013-16 & 31-1-50013-19) as a set as the colour of the repro plastics often vary from the original.

#8654 53 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

And if you are replacing 31-1-50013-16 (plastic on the left side of the skull) then you should consider replacing both the left & right plastics (ie 31-1-50013-16 & 31-1-50013-19) as a set as the colour of the repro plastics often vary from the original.

I can attest to this. The left & right of the head plastics I bought off ebay were more of an aqua and dull orange instead of light blue and neon orange. Not terribly noticeable if you play with the lights off though.

#8655 48 days ago

Finishing up my T2.

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2 weeks later
#8656 28 days ago

Hey what's up guys!

Owned a T2 since 2014 but just officially joined pinside and wanted to say thanks for all the helpful technical information, insights and links in this club that has kept my pin going!

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#8657 28 days ago

Couple of chromies on the go..one for me, one for a friend

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#8658 28 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Couple of chromies on the go..one for me, one for a friend [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Why you gotta make me miss my T2 so much? :/

#8659 26 days ago

He'll be back

1 week later
#8660 19 days ago

Hi all!
Just joined the T2 club.
Here some mods i made to boost my T2 pinball.
T800 SKULL and Hunter Killer interactive lights:


If you like them, all my mods are available in my shop on Pinside.
thanks

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1 week later
#8661 10 days ago

Can someone post a picture of the wires connected to the illuminated start button. My start button is not original, I am going to purchase the factory one part # 20-9663-3 and want to make sure I wire it correctly.

Thanks In Advance,
Pete

#8662 10 days ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Can someone post a picture of the wires connected to the illuminated start button. My start button is not original, I am going to purchase the factory one part # 20-9663-3 and want to make sure I wire it correctly.
Thanks In Advance,
Pete

Here ya go

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#8663 10 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Here ya go
[quoted image]

Thank You so much.

#8666 5 days ago

Can someone, ANYONE, please tell me how the feet on the legs should be set on this game? I had them all flat but the play seemed slow so I raised the back and it drains like a MF now.

Added 3 days ago:

Thanks Manny!!

#8667 5 days ago
Quoted from Philly76:

Can someone, ANYONE, please tell me how the feet on the legs should be set on this game? I had them all flat but the play seemed slow so I raised the back and it drains like a MF now.

Typically set the PF angle to 6.5 degree and then adjust if required. Here's the instructions from the manual

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#8668 4 days ago
Quoted from Philly76:

Can someone, ANYONE, please tell me how the feet on the legs should be set on this game? I had them all flat but the play seemed slow so I raised the back and it drains like a MF now.

I'm not real tall (5'9") so on my games, I bury the front levelers (with the nut in place), and the rears have about 1.25-1.5" of threads between the bottom of the nut and the leveler pad to hit 6-6.5 degrees. This is based on a W/B WPC cabinet... As far as draining, practice practice practice! If pinball was easy, it wouldn't make any money!

#8669 3 days ago

Few more pieces to my chrome edition done...not long now

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#8670 3 days ago

I have a quick tech question regarding power to the T2 gun motor.

Is there a reason that T2 doesn't use the +12V from connector J118 position 2? The ground from the motor returns to this connector at position 3.

It seems the motor regulator board is performing the same function as the PDB.

Thanks in advance for any insight you might have.

#8671 7 hours ago

Hey guys, more frequently I'm getting a kind of a toilet bowl affect when shooting the skull. (Note the wear) It rolls around for a few seconds before finally sitting to lock. Would a cliffy's stop this from happening, make it more difficult to lock? Anyone have it installed?

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#8672 3 hours ago
Quoted from zekeazoid:

Hey guys, more frequently I'm getting a kind of a toilet bowl affect when shooting the skull. (Note the wear) It rolls around for a few seconds before finally sitting to lock. Would a cliffy's stop this from happening, make it more difficult to lock? Anyone have it installed?
[quoted image]

It's a typical wear spot because the ball is shot up there with speed and can catch the rear edge of the VUK - if you are going to install a cliffy you'll need to fill the wear hole first. The ball can bounce and roll around before settling in VUK but it's not an issue that needs to be fixed.

Looking at your picture, the VUK cap (where the ball settles before being fired up to the load the cannon) is missing or odd looking. See the black cap (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8053) in the below pic and a wonder if that is contributing to what you are seeing

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#8673 1 hour ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Looking at your picture, the VUK cap (where the ball settles before being fired up to the load the cannon) is missing or odd looking. See the black cap (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8053) in the below pic and a wonder if that is contributing to what you are seeing
[quoted image]

So that's what this is! The cap has been off and inside the cabinet since I bought the machine years ago and I've never known, probably because I've never had an issue loading the cannon. How difficult is it to replace the assembly? And since I'm there I've been thinking about replacing the drop target so I can light it up red... hard to justify because if it ain't broke don't fix it.

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#8674 25 minutes ago
Quoted from zekeazoid:

So that's what this is! The cap has been off and inside the cabinet since I bought the machine years ago and I've never known, probably because I've never had an issue loading the cannon. How difficult is it to replace the assembly? And since I'm there I've been thinking about replacing the drop target so I can light it up red... hard to justify because if it ain't broke don't fix it. [quoted image][quoted image]

The VUK and drop target are different assemblies.

You'll need to pull out the VUK and checkout the plunger to see if it or anything else needs to be replaced, or has the dowel pin that holds the cap on simply broken. Page 2-22 of the manual shows the assembly and parts

There are 8674 posts in this topic. You are on page 174 of 174.

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