Couple updates:

Pin2dmd screens should be ready in 2 weeks. Just got confirmation that my parts are in Canada and arriving soon.

Second update:

After trying purchasing 2 different T2 in the past week that were in subpar condition upon inspection and at ridiculous prices, I am now officially shopping around for a T2 in the US.
Yes I would rather pay shipping and custom fees that to continue dealing with the clowns on this side, lol.

I have imported games before and know the process well. Can assist.

I will not do a want to buy ad specific here as I have had ZERO success with those before so I will give it a shot here.

I will pay top dollar for a mint or reconditioned game (not a hacked up resto) but a goos quality one, must be rebuilt to spec and tastefully done.
Spraying clear coat over a stained PF is not restoring, to be specific.

If you have one in original shape, I am also interested.
Condition is king.

Let me know what you have.
Thanks

Currently just one, it is white wire with purple bands.

Here is a pic from my T2 restoration. My drop target switch has 2 wires on the non banded side, both with with purple.

20191218_105200 (resized).jpg

Here's a couple pics of my T2 drop microswitch, this should make it pretty clear.

100_8418 (resized).JPG

100_8419 (resized).JPG

Thanks everyone, that did it and couldn't have go it done so quickly without everyone's help!!

Glad to help!

Turns out this one was fuse 116. Although it was getting the 5v it was not getting the 12v. Fuse “looked” good. With the schematics (much appreciated) I could trace back to TP1. And fuse 116. Sure enough bad. Replaced and light kit works fine

Now on to my Fuse 501 issue.

I bought two 30 year olds a matching pair in October and I'm spending time on fixing them both up so I just started following the crowd here

_W5A0230 (resized).jpg

Good to hear you solved it.

You indicated that J116-118 gets power and works, however I'm guessing this was just because the game had no issues? The 12V Unreg power is rarely used in T2 so having a blown F116 could easily go unnoticed. The Babcock plasma display uses 12V but the Cherry display doesn't - so guessing you either have a Cherry display (or are using a ColorDMD with a separate power supply). The 12V also runs down to the coin door interface board but isn't used (there's not even headers on my J4 or J5 where the 12V would be tapped from).

Start button was the issue. Thanks EStroh.

And here's an idea how to create a new skull for our beloved T2.
Still brainstorming and testing with 3D printed prototype model, but it could be a great add on, doesn't it?
I will reply again on this later if the development is so far in progress to show something more.
But this will take a while...

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

this is amazing!

When would the servo motor activate the lower jaw?

I would be awesome if it does it during callouts!!!!
GEDDAUTTT

Just joined the club a week ago and having a blast. One questions, though:
Under 'Feature Adjustments', what does the setting 'DRP TRGT MULTI' do exactly? It isn't in the manual, so it must have been added in a later revision of the software.

i do not know for certain , but perhaps it alters multiball to just dropping the drop target under the skull ?

Feature Adjustment #21 DRPTRGT DWN MLTI

If set to OFF (default) then after getting Jackpot (see below Multiball/Jackpot rules) to go for Super Jackpot you need to shoot the skull twice, once to knock down the drop target and the second to load the cannon. If set to ON then the drop target will stay down, so you only need to shoot the skull once in order to load the cannon for Super Jackpot.

A full set of the rules can be found at http://www.pinball.org/rules/terminator2.html

MULTI-BALL

Shoot and knock down the drop target, then shoot the ball into the ball popper, the ball popper will fire the ball to load the cannon. When the cannon is loaded with a ball, the cannon swings out from its "Home" position. Fire Cannon by pulling trigger on gun grip when the cannon passes the lit white stand up target. Hitting lit target scores Multi-ball.

When Multi-ball is scored (by hitting lit target with an accurate cannon shot), two balls are shot out onto the playfield automatically. For a short duration "Autofire" will be on.

JACKPOT and SUPER JACKPOT

During Multi-Ball, the object of the game is to achieve Jackpot and SUPER Jackpot, (50,000 points). The player must load the cannon by shooting a ball into the ball popper hole, behind the drop target. At this point the player is guaranteed an opportunity to shoot for a 1X Jackpot with the moving cannon, but the cannon will NOT be loaded until the other balls are drained or locked in the lock holes. If the player can manage to get another ball into one of the remaining two lock holes he will be guaranteed a 2X Jackpot shot. If all three balls are locked the cannon will load for a 3X Jackpot shot. Maximum points for Jackpot 1X, 2X, and 3X is 10, 20, and 30 million respectively.

Regardless of the number of balls locked, the player must have 1 ball in the ball popper to qualify for a Jackpot. When the other 2 balls are either locked or drained, the game says "Get the Jackpot" the ball popper then loads the cannon and the cannon swings out to shoot at the targets. If the player shoots a lit target, then the player receives a 1X, 2X, or 3X Jackpot depending on the number of locked balls as explained above.

If the player hits a 2X or 3X Jackpot, he may then shoot for the SUPER Jackpot. While at least 2 balls are in play, the player must reload the cannon with one of the balls in play. The game then says "Get the Super Jackpot" and the ball is popped to load the cannon. During the firing of the cannon for SUPER Jackpot the lit target is no longer a stationary target. It is moving up and down while the cannon is also in motion. It's a very tough shot but well worth mastering for the 50 million points received for a direct hit. If you managed to keep the other ball(s) in play you may repeat this last step for multiple SUPER Jackpots.

"If it isn't broken, it isn't pinball".
Thought I was done, added any mods (incl Ultimate Hunter/Killer - wow, is it nicely made). Pinsound, speakers, mirror blades etc. Go to play it, centre targets two not working. Fix broken wire between them. One game all good, then gun can't find home, another broken wire on home switch. Two games all good, then the ball popper aramature under the skull breaks. Part and a spare ordered, used it as excuse to order Space Station ramp too. That's pinball folks....still a good way to spend a day inside when its -30C outside.

Makes sense; thanks for the detailed explanation! I'll probably leave it off, as I don't want the Super to be too easy to get.

Just tuning up my T2. I love this game!!!!

I have a issue that is random. Some times the cannon target lights don’t light up. I can usually guess which ones I need to hit. When I miss it will light up quickly so I know for next time.

Any idea on why these lights would occasionally work? I am checking the connections again.

Thanks in advance. John

Oh and these attached pic were left over from the flipper rebuild. I am guessing they are not needed.

B8E0358F-C631-41D7-B81B-6546F7450B3E (resized).jpeg

Let me know what you find out in the cannon lights. Mine does the same thing. I’ll get them all working when I’m going through the tests. I lower the playfield and then get a game going and almost always one of them refuses to light up.

Capacitors for EOS switches, should change out the old caps for new ones.

20201129_102808 (resized).jpg

Yes, renew the capacitors...

DSCN9146 (resized).JPG

From a quick google search it's due to solder cracking on the targets (as they take a lot of punishment from the cannon) or a poor connection on one of the connectors. Let us know what you find

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-judgment-day-cannon-target-lights-dont-light
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-t2-target-lights-not-working-for-cannon-only

Most of the Terminator's have wrong mounted bracket in the area where the Hunter Killer Ship is located.
As you can see on the picture below - this is WRONG!
The bended part must be placed behind the targets, so turn the bracket upside down.

pasted_image (resized).png

no need to have 2 sets of spring on your flippers. Looks like the old style and new style are mixed.
You can remove the old style ones (around the plunger).

super common issue in most Williams/Bally and light boards. The molex connector needs to be desoldered. I see this simple task often butchered as these were previously fixed on route and the molex connectors are a mess.
Desolder, install a new connector and enjoy the light show for the next 10 years without issues.
If the connector is salvageable, maybe adding flux and just heating up the old solder (with a tinned tip) will reflow the connection. If it is done right, this works well. No hacks!

edit: I see Manny got ahead of me now. oops.

Nah, I will take my setup all day, every day. Been in the game long time.

you like them super snappy then , i moved to the newer spring style but i think the springs i used may need to be longer

A bit of trivia and in case someone has an early production version - B/W originally made a flat bracket for above the white cannon targets, this was then replaced with the bent version (I'm not sure whether this was to stop a ball being wedged into the back of the targets from behind or if it was to stop the standup targets from being bent back due to the force of the cannon).

Here is a pic of both versions

T2 white target top bracket 1 (resized).jpg

Thanks so much it didn’t have them. Any way you can snap some photos of where the leads go? I definitely will add them and mine had the skinny little spring so I didn’t use the big ones.

Thanks again!!

John

They attach to the EOS switch stack blades. I always put some heat shrink tubing around the wire, as to not make contact with any other parts.

Screenshot_20211230-225759_Gallery (resized).jpg

As per eyeamred2u pic the capacitor goes across the EOS switch - here's the schematics from Section 3 of the manual as a reference

T2 Flipper Circuit (resized).jpg

Thanks Manny65 for the schematic reference. Got sidetracked.

the schematic shows the capacitors with a polarity ,but are the mylar capacitors for the flippers non polar?

Introducing my new 3D Terminator 2 flipper toppers. Please PM if interested in purchasing: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/127221

pasted_image (resized).png

Very nice! I would’ve bought these if I didn’t sell my T2

Can you make it all better and lmk what you have for Stern Spider-Man? That’s what replaced T2.

Forwarded your post to my friend that bought my T2 and he said he will buying them later today!

Technically it is, however for this application polarity is not needed. Usually only Electrolytic caps use +/-and on schematics, there would be a plus sign on the symbol. All you need to do is install the cap leads to each blade as per my pic.

Good Morning,
I have a replacement skull I received with my game when I purchased it. The one on it is pretty rough. Is anyone familiar with the replacement of this? I guess my biggest question is how to go about riveting the old one back on or is there alternative attachment hardware that is acceptable?
Thanks!

Nuts and bolts if you prefer not to rivet and use loctite so vibration is not your enemy. Or see if a pinsider will rivet it for you. Can drill out the old rivets. May be able to do a search and find a post or 2 about the head replacement.

Be SUPER CAREFUL if you are going to do this. If the bit grabs the rivet and spins it, it will heat up the surrounding plastic of the skull and ruin it. You may fare better grinding off the flared-out end with the washer under it. You'll likely grind a little into the washer and ruin that, but you're going to use a new washer anyway when you re-rivet. I destroyed a Pinbot clear lift ramp by drilling out one of the old rivets, it spun and melted the plastic. Luckily I was making a new ramp anyway so it didn't matter, but the T2 skull is less replaceable and more fragile.

Metal drill bit, some fluid, start with small size drill bit. no worries. Dremel will still produce heat so just be warned both ways are gonna stink if you overheat.

On any of my T2 resto's, I don't go back to original skull, So I never worry about this.

T2 back in my collection after a decade… I need some assistance with the gun not being able to hit the lowest target. Anyone know how to make the gun advance/aim toward the lowest target?

As you can see from my kitchen spoon reference photo I can only hit the second lowest target.

6EFA111A-FD20-4677-9F6B-D5675C8C7CF4 (resized).jpeg

Probably the roll over switches under the gun are out of adjustment. The info is in the manual.

The rollover switches are only for “Home” and “Mark” (aligned to bottom of left ramp). They do not appear to have anything to do with adjusting the sweep. Checked the manual and that’s the only info mentioned.

That is the correct but you still need to adjust the "sweep" as you call it. Here is a picture of the mechanism out of the game.

20191213_121929 (resized).jpg

Welcome back!

The amount of travel in the cannon is mechanical and not related to the switches/electronics. There are 3 arms in the linkage that determines the travel - the top arrow is the arm driven by the motor (always rotates counter-clockwise), the middle arrow is the linkage that turns the movement into back & forth, while the bottom arrow points to the arm on the cannon shaft (converting the linear motion back into a rotation but maintains the back & forth due to the small angular movement). I suspect that the linkage is either loose or the holes in the linkage arm are worn - in test mode move the cannon to it's lowest point (as you did in your pic) and then with your hand see how much slop/play is in the linkage by moving the cannon. I have a fair bit of play in my linkage - the motor will turn the cannon to the lowest target but then I can move the cannon further to it points to the post below the bottom target. Do you have more play in your linkage?

Alternatively has someone replaced a linkage arm and maybe the replacement is marginally shorter and hence reducing the stroke?

T2 cannon - gearbox linkage (resized).jpg

Thanks! And thanks for the guidance. I had looked over the linkage quite a bit, and had tried adjusting it a little. There’s a Allen key set screw, but it doesn’t appear to do anything other than lock a portion of the linkage to the shaft. The gun runs a bit sluggish, so I’ll likely pull it for a complete overhaul and lube.

if it runs sluggish, I often find is previous owners who never took it apart, only sprayed some crappy lube to make it work. After I cleaned mine I never had to lube it, I do not think it need to be lubed to run well, if it is clean it should move freely.

I miss this game! even though I know I will get tired of it in no time, nostalgia is a bitch!