(Topic ID: 27799)

Terminator 2 Club....Members Only!

By spfxted

11 years ago


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#4362 7 years ago
Quoted from Brandje:

guys i need some help here, i switched t2 cpu with another cab to do some testing, and all of a sudden, i have some issues, at game start the ball wont come out of the ball popper, and at the same time the gun fires, the ball popper fires, but just too weak, same with the 3 locks, ball wont come out, just moves a bit, and the cannon coil fires in sync.....
im really lost here, any helpwould be welcome.

Do you have J207 or J209 at the bottom of the MPU plugged in one pin off?
Also make sure you have all the ribbon cables plugged into the MPU correctly. Try reseating them.

3 months later
#4513 7 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Just checking in new owner here! Was a import from Germany. Operator had it and vended on location but it's over all condition is pretty good. Little wear in front of the right flipper but someone put some mylar there to stop the wearing. I got it for a great price. Needs some cleaning and a LED treatment along with Cliffy's protectors. I'll most likely shop it out knowing me with my OCD. Flippers could use a rebuild as well. NVram to loose those batteries. No acid damage at all thankfully. The operator told me it was shopped out. I think that means cleaning the PF a little bit and some windex on the glass! Always wanted one played it a lot when new in a local sandwich shop. I found out on my 5th game I have the profanity rom! That was a shocker!
I'll be reading through the thread to see all the tips and tricks. But if anything sticks out from my pics let me know! The only thing the operator told me was if you loose battery power it defaults to German. I'll have to figure out how to default that to English.

Good pick up.
LEDs and NVRAM will be a very good choice.

Only thing that stands out to me is your left side playfield GI lights are out. Either you have a burnt connector at J115, J120, or J121 or a bad GI fuse F106-110 in the bottom left corner of the driver board.

#4517 7 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Are those connectors known to burn out? I have a bunch of molex connectors at least!

It is the reason that I brought it up. If the connectors are ok, check those 5 fuses next.

3 months later
#4726 7 years ago
Quoted from cosmicjim:

I need to replace my mpu board. There's a $205 board on eBay. Is there a cheaper alternative?

Reselling your old board would offset the cost of a replacement a bit at least.
Can you posy a picture of the old board?

4 months later
#5128 6 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

The CPU playfield insert has never lit on my t2. The lights work on light test but have yet to see anything happen with it during a game. When should it light? I am going to look for some videos.

Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

They also light up during high score entry after you've entered your first initial.

What about during attract mode and the lamp test?

#5130 6 years ago

Ok. Then I have a problem with mine lighting up anytime.

#5142 6 years ago
Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

Ok...let's end this....why is everyone "pretty sure"..???!!!..fire up the game check it out...someone post a vid of them not flipping in video mode.......the vid I posted they flip...mine flip...on location flips.......show me the vid of yours not flipping..... ..............Joey

Also post what software version you are running in the game.

3 weeks later
#5184 6 years ago
Quoted from crussomd:

So my dmd started acting wacky. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The gameplay is perfect but whenever an animation come on its is overlaid with the words or numbers or they take turns flashing on top of each other.

Quoted from Breaking_Dad:

First line of attack is re-seat the ribbon cables to/from dmd............Joey

This is the one I see act up most often.
ribbon cable to reseat for DMD issues (resized).pngribbon cable to reseat for DMD issues (resized).png

#5186 6 years ago
Quoted from crussomd:

This did the trick. Thanks so much joey. Btw I noticed I'm missing the entire upper left board as shown in your picture. The ribbon only had 3 connections and went straight to the bottom left board. I'm guessing someone upgraded something somewhere along the line?
Thanks chris

You are correct. This was a picture from Whitewater. I need to do a new one for T2. Sorry for any confusion.

#5192 6 years ago

Buy it now!

#5195 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Wow, even the demo video kicks ass!! Well done ColorDMD!! I might just have to blow my wad on this... But according to the website, the firmware is still not available?

Will be available on Friday

1 month later
#5321 6 years ago
Quoted from Bugsy:

Has anyone installed a ColorDMD in their T2 yet? Are there any videos out there of the ColorDMDs installed in any games?

I have a LED display installed. No games play videos yet I am aware of.

4 months later
#5818 6 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

A new MPU and boom....Working like a champ! Weak right flipper and lots of lights out, but everything else seems to be working....

I'll be waiting on your original MPU to repair for you and install NVRAM. I think you meant damn near every light is out!! haha

#5820 6 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

When can I drop it off? Flipper rebuild kit shipped today.

Since you have the game up and running, I will not be in a hurry to get to your board. I have many other boards in front of yours anyway that I need to finish up for other people. We can schedule some time for you to stop by so you can see if you can beat your high score on MY T2 dammit and play SW as well.

#5837 6 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

T2 owners ,Do you prefer color dmd or color LCD?? I unboxed a T2 my first new game as a youngster,and regret selling, picking up a nicer one soon to.put next to my T3 .That has the LCD and looks good in the T3 but that's the only option, a suggestions ?? Thanks

I think you mean you have the LED in T3 because of the RPG assembly. The LCD will fit in T3 as long as you route out some of the wood in the speaker panel so that the LCD display will be sit flush with the speaker panel.

I have tried both the LED and the LCD in my T2 and I liked the LCD more, but moved them to another games with more animations since I don't have enough displays for all my DMD games.

#5838 6 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Looks like he hasnt been here for a few weeks...

Stay on target!!!

2 months later
#6098 6 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I haven't seen Breaking_Dad on here for quite a long time. Anybody know if he's ok?

Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I know! I’ve even sent him some
PMs and no reply. His profile says last visit November(?)...he’s T2 biggest fan!!!

Please start a separate thread already.

#6109 6 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Question for you guys... on launch the ball is not hitting the center hunter killer target or something because after the ball is launched and hits one of the targets they keep cycling as if they where never hit.
Only thing I can think of is that th game is programmed only for the ball to hit the center target on launch... as it should, but if it doesn’t nothing is registered so thrbhunter targets keep cycling???

Mine is hitting the 2nd from the top target. In any case, I think you have one or several targets not registering. Go into the switch edge test and test all the switches. If only the target(s) are not registering, I suspect you have a broken wire that daisy chains them together.

#6111 6 years ago

You have to hit whichever random target that is lit when you launch the ball. It may even be the bottom target on some games, depending on the strength of the shooter lane coil or the angle that the ball comes out of the shooter lane.

#6112 6 years ago

If you fail to hit the lit target, you should get a "You Missed" call out and should even display that on the DMD. Try it with the glass off and press the target with your finger after you start a game. Maybe you need to adjust the target(s) to be more sensitive?

#6114 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

That only happens when you shoot from the cannon for mutiball or jackpot, not for the skillshot.

This is true. Thanks. I mixed up firing the cannon with the skill shot.

Try it with the glass off and press the lit target during the skill shot with your finger after you start a game. Maybe you need to adjust the target(s) to be more sensitive? Let us know your results.

1 month later
#6376 5 years ago

Good gawd. One link to your cards is PLENTY. Please spam your own thread with all your different varieties.

#6381 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Good gawd. One link to your cards is PLENTY. Please spam your own thread with all your different varieties.

This is aimed at you Mikonos in case you didn't get the hint.

1 week later
#6449 5 years ago

Uh..nope. So you are against the military having laser guided rifles too? I have the laser guided cannon mod on my STTNG and it is bad ass for more than just helping to aim the shots.

#6452 5 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Where's that stupid Mikonos Clown?

He is now in the Hook club trying to spread his awesome designs there.

#6469 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

I just got messaged by Mikonos, apparently by down voting him we are harassing him? I tried to explain that his giant pictures keep clogging up this thread and that some people like myself watch it to help other owners with issues they run into and for ideas and mods and that he should just create his own art thread to display all of his nice cards which no one is allowed to buy? I guess my thought is would we be less annoyed with his posts if he was willing to share the end result with us? I think I would but, I like stuff to be honest . I think I'll put him on ignore status going forward so I don't have to see his posts. He won't get down voted by me and I will have to see his giant pictures with neat art that I can't have.

Yes, I agree it is clogging up this thread with these ugly cards. Problem is, he is already has been linking to his other thread to all his cards. One post with the link was plenty in my opinion.

#6473 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

by any chance does anyone have a NOS or even just a real nice copy of the original trans-light?

A nice copy? See Post #6453 where Mikonos was showing he can do that too.

#6481 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

Yup, if only he sold his art work.... Seriously though, no one knows about a place that reproduces the stock trans light?

Is yours damaged or missing? Other than the alternative, I'm not currently aware of an original unless you happen to find one on Ebay, but might have scratches, etc.

I wish PPS would have a 3d one made for T2. That would be sweet.

#6483 5 years ago

My translite is also scratched in a few places, but doesn't sound as bad as yours.

#6500 5 years ago

Just as labeled on the game.

Quoted from KJS:lock bar says insert 3 balls

4 months later
#6825 5 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Looking for some help here. I have non-ghosting Comet bulbs in the insert and the whole playfield doesn't ghost but the left bank for CPU, Access code etc. The right bank doesn't do it, just the left. You can see in the first picture the top CPU is about 20% lit and in the second picture you can see the checkpoint 100% lit like it should be but the cpu is still 20% lit (hard to see in the picture). Before I launch the ball and the skill shot lights cycle up in down (bank of lights right above) the 20% ghosting cycles with the those. What I mean by this is if the middle skill shot lot is lit then I'll have the silent alarm on at 20%. Any thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Can put install incandescent bulbs in the place of the troubled inserts? It will prove you have a board problem if it still does it with regular bulbs.

#6829 5 years ago

Try reseating this ribbon cable at each board. (T2 has one less board connection).fc3b5b6f5a7b15a35f34f1e58a09844c716eb8af (resized).jpgfc3b5b6f5a7b15a35f34f1e58a09844c716eb8af (resized).jpg

2 months later
#6956 5 years ago

Congrats on getting your T2. You are making some great progress already.

10 months later
#7553 4 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Umm, those post sleeve rubbers come in several colors! You can make it any color you want! Mine is a Titan red, because I wanted it to be and put it there! My Special inserts are also red.

How about some pictures of those red post sleeves installed?

4 weeks later
#7601 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hi all. I was trying to hook up a PinballBulbs LED light strip at the back of my playfield, and I couldn't get it to work with any of the suggested J116, J117, and J118 ports. Not the end of the world, but when I re-powered my machine, my Color DMD isn't working anymore. So frustrating and I feel like I want to cry haha. I tried all the connections again, tightening, removing, pushing back in etc but nothing seems to work. I hear sound and all the other lights are working, but nothing on the DMD. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be forever grateful. Some pics attached. Many thanks! G[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sounds like you have a blown fuse in the top left of your power driver board.

#7606 4 years ago

F116 is in the top left of the power driver board. ColorDMD runs off is 12Vunregulated. LED7 will be off if it is blown.
3692bfb8cda04136abbf304dbfa644ee5b048125 (resized).jpg3692bfb8cda04136abbf304dbfa644ee5b048125 (resized).jpg

#7607 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

So would I be focusing on the 601 / 602 ones then, as those link to the Dot Matrix board?

These 2 fuses can be removed when using a ColorDMD as the high voltages are not used and the DMD power cable is no longer used anyway with a ColorDMD.

#7614 4 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

OK! Led7 is not lighting up, so presumably that means F116 is blown.
2 more newb questions:
1) Is there a trick for getting the fuses out or do I just wedge them out with a screwdriver?
2) Do you know where I could find a replacement fuse for F116 online or how I'd search for it?
Thanks again everyone. Pinsiders have been such a Godsend as I navigate these new stormy seas haha.

3amp slo blo

You can get fuses at auto parts stores, electronic stores, hardware stores, possibly even home improvement stores. Though they will be priced higher at these stores but you will have it right away.

You can slide a flathead screwdriver under the fuse near one of the metal ends and just turn the screwdriver slowly.

#7616 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Remove with game OFF

Yeah, that is important. Power off anytime unplugging connectors or ribbon cables to boards or replacing parts.

2 months later
#7780 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

What else do I need to mount my new DMD display in the panel? Are there brackets that go on the corner posts that hold the display in place? I have nothing on mine. Can someone provide some picture and/or part numbers?
Thanks,
Ken

Post a picture of what you have.

5 months later
#8079 3 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

That's a great price! Are they silkscreened or digitally printed?

Those are silkscreened.

#8081 3 years ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Well I guess I’ll have to wait until CPR has their made-to-order playfield operation up and running to do what I want then...

Don't be expecting T2 from CPR.

1 month later
#8127 3 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Anyone do a shop job recently that could help me with these ring sizes? The rubber kit I got was wrong and I didn’t find any good documentation on exactly what size these are supposed to be. Marked them in color for an easy response.
[quoted image]

The old rubber ones may still have the size embossed if it was not worn down.

3 months later
#8417 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I noticed one of the Transistors on this boards is not original (Q70 picture below) I can only tell it is not original because it is the only one different than the rest, it has a somewhat gold color to it (not sure if it is because it overheated??) nonetheless, that transistor was not put in by Rottendog... but maybe is acceptable?

Manual calls for TIP 102 Transistor on Q70 (Q52 has the TIP 102 that rotten dog uses)

You cannot use any Williams driver board schematic when trying to troubleshooting a Rottendog driver board. They are not the same. You must use a Rottendog driver board schematic.

IRL540 on the Rottendog driver board is a replacement part for the original 13N10L that is on the board. A TIP 102 cannot be used on this Rottendog driver board.

#8457 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

so what is the next step do diagnose further damage created by the left flipper coil? It burnt F112 (5A SB - 50V circuit fuse) am I good to go after replacing the coil?

Making sure the EOS switch is working properly is the next step. If it is not working correctly, it will cause the flipper fuse to blow. The flipper fuses are at F101 and F102, so make sure these are 2.5 amp fuses.

If you are blowing out F112, I suspect you have an issue with other than flipper coil. Do you hear any coils lock on when you turn on the game? If not, you can run the coil test and see if any blows out the fuse when running the test. This coil test separates the flippers from this test.

#8462 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I guess it turns out this game does not have a transistor for the flipper coils??

Nope. There is a flipper power enable relay at the top left area of the power driver board that work with the 2N25 opto isolation parts that detect the flipper buttons being pressed in.

Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

these circuits are high voltage controlled by the EOS switch.

Yes. If the EOS switch is not detected, then the high voltage stays on and will blow your F101/F102 fuse, if it is the correct rated fuse.

#8467 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

I had noticed the EOS switch for the left flipper was sparking whereas the right one was not, I tried adjusting it but it made no difference... perhaps that is where the problem was the entire time, a bad EOS switch?

It is best to use an ohmmeter to be sure that the EOS switch is opening and closing. Closed position, you definitely should be measuring less than 1 ohm resistance.

#8469 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

wait, ohmmeter? I have a multimeter and I am just learning how to use it so I presume this is the tool for the job? but in ohms mode...

Correct. Horseshoe symbol to test the ohms. Don't use the continuity test as you can get fooled by the beep .

Resistance test is always with power off.

Test the end of the EOS switch where the wires are soldered.

Test with the EOS switch open and closed. Report what you measured.

#8471 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

well I have taken it out of the game, would the test be effective that way? or does it have to be connected to the coil?

Needs to be connected up to the coil.

Only way I could see F112 blew out is because the F101/F102 did not blow out because of them being 5amp fuses.

#8486 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

So I want to use the opportunity to make a new cable, and to also make it a home ru so I can tidy up that part of the cabinet... You guys have no idea the kind of OCD person I am when it comes to this stuff. So I want to make a home run, personal challenge too!

Take note that if you wire to the other wiring, it will not match the manual. How will your OCD handle that? Haha. You will be basically wiring both ends of the cable to make it the way John Wart suggests. This is a lot of work.

I personally repin J115 to original wiring per the manual when I work on games. It seems easier to get a hold of this yellow and yellow with white wire to splice a Y connection at the end of the solid wiring that is there now, removing the old loop wire and tossing it.

#8488 3 years ago

Splicing and soldering will be the easiest, in my opinion. Going this route the only wire you need to add is at the end to make the Y connection at the end of what is currently there. I suggest heat shrink to cover over this Y connection. Plus you would only have 1 wire for each pin, which is better. Unlike the factory wiring, you would have to crimp 2 wires to make the loop and I do suggest soldering the wires on the crimp after crimping. You can't use a lot of solder when you do this, otherwise the pin, with 2 wires, will not go into the connector housing.

I'm sure to some degree it is in the manual, but I never had to look it up.

The new way, you will have to buy multiple colors of wire of the correct gage wire. I don't know what the minimum length is you have to purchase. Usually a roll is 100 ft.

#8490 3 years ago

Once you splice one wire, it will be much easier than you think. Work from the left side with the backbox light board closed since you're working below it anyway so there is no need to have the door open and no need to stretch to do this splicing.

So there is not even much detail, even on pinwiki other than at J115, as very few machines to date would ever need to have a whole wire harness replaced.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

#8503 3 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. I've got a discolored square in my ColorDMD LED. Sometimes it goes away, but it's hanging around a bit.
ColorDMD is only about a year old. Bought New. Moderate home use. I reseated the cables etc, didn't see anything crazy on first glance. Next I'm going to try re-uploading the software via the USB, but just checking if this looks familiar to anyone!
Thanks. G
[quoted image]

That looks to be a bad RAM chip on the DMD controller board. Swap boards between BSD to see the problem move to it and to show the other board works in T2. The part is not in an IC socket unless someone by chance replaced it in the past.

1 month later
#8580 2 years ago
Quoted from mikespins:

Hey all. I just replaced the plunger coil and now the ball is hitting the 2nd from bottom target below the ship instead of the middle target when you launch. Is this normal because it's a newer and stronger coil or is it not aligned or something? I purchased the entire setup with brackets, not just the coil. Can anyone provide any insight? Thanks.

Mine hits the 2nd target from the top from the shooter lane.

6 months later
#8715 2 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all. Quick question. I changed the batteries on my T2 for the first time since I picked it up a few years ago. For some reason, now whenever I turn on the machine, it says "Factory Settings Restored" every time and "Date and Time Not Set" etc... I set the date and time, save it, turn on free play mode, save it etc, but every time I turn the machine off and on again, it's like it never happened and all the settings are erased. The machine is also plugged in FYI. I'm sure it's just some dumb small thing, but any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. G

Sounds like one of the battery tabs on the battery holder is not making connection to a battery. Post a picture of the MPU board. I suggest NVRAM install, but this requires delicate desoldering/soldering.

4 months later
#8918 2 years ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Hey guys. I broke the lower chase loop switch when i was taken the pf out and i have installed a new switch. But while in switch test it does not activate. I have the schematic but sure how to read where the switch 65 is on the board so i can check the components. While looking at the switch matrix how do i find it on the schematic? Thanks

Did you wire it correctly? Post a picture.

2 months later
#9141 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

What do you mean by populate?

Install the parts yourself.

2 weeks later
#9168 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Can anyone offer advice on a display issue I have? Had the issue before and now it’s back again. Pics below.
It happened before a couple years ago on the original amber/orange DMD display and so I had removed the connectors from the board and the display and just cleaned them all with a toothbrush. It was good for a couple years after I did that. Then I sold the machine to a friend this past December and just bought it back recently. Now it’s doing it again but on the color DMD he installed. I removed the connectors again and reseated them several times and it seemed ok but came back after a game or two. I’ll try to clean it again like I did before but looking for a better solution or at least one that will last longer?
TIA

With power off, reseat both ribbon cables at all the board connections that start at the top of the MPU board. (5 ribbon cable connections.)

#9171 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Display working great again but my sound is now coming and going

Reseat this one again. Bad shared data connection on one pin.

Any bent Male header board pins can cause issues when the ribbon cable is plugged in.

Looks like to me that this ribbon cable is is need of replacement.

2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png2019-02-02 14_20_45-WPC ribbon cable to reseat - Paint (resized).png

#9173 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

For the sound or display?
Thanks.

It can affect both, in the case right now your sound is flaky.

1 month later
#9252 1 year ago

Diamond plate is no guarantee there will not be any wear on the playfield. My T2 has plenty of ball trails in heavily traveled areas.

T2 also been known for having lots of raised inserts.

Don't get any false hopes of finding a perfect T2 playfield.

#9254 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

So needing some help on where to get started. I have like 3 switches that are all not working, happened at the same time I assuming it is not the switches more of a wiring or board issue.
The switch in the ball drain that fires the solenoid pushing the ball out out of there. The right out-lane switch and the first target on the bank of three targets to lite the kickback.
I looked for a lose wire in this are and have found none loose, checked every fuse in the game and they are all good, I have swapped out all ribbon cables as well just as a preventative deal.
So what should I be checking next? Thanks in advance, gotta get T2 up and running.

First thing I would do is go into switch edge test and test all the switches. Make sure you watch to be sure only that one switch registers. If multiple switches register when pressing one, likely have a broken wire on the same row and column. Could be why you have 3 non working switches right now. Look at all the switches in that same row and column and tug on that common color wire to be sure they are actually connected.

The switches are likely not soldered in the order shown in the switch matrix chart.

#9257 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

I imagine that a stop is missing from the plunger solenoid ah?

Pinball life for the replacement?

Yes it is a plunger stop. Part number is in the manual. You can do an internet search using the part number. Most pinball shops should have it. Order from your favorite place.

You are also missing a screw on that coil stop, which can cause the shooter plunger not to hit the balls squarely.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
2 months later
#9375 1 year ago
Quoted from candyman1979:

Hi there. I have a problem with my T2. When I start a game and make the skillshot then multiball starts!? What could be the reason for this?
Thanks for tips.
Peter

Go into Switch edge test and test all the switches. Report the switches that register more than the one switch being tested.

2 weeks later
#9408 1 year ago
Quoted from Br81zad:

My T2 is doing a fun trick now.

The coin mechs aren't registering credits and the test/menu buttons aren't registering (so i can't even set it to free play).

Just worked on a Demo Man last week for the same problem . It had the black wires to the coin mech closest to the menu buttons broke loose.

check your wiring.

1 month later
#9597 1 year ago
Quoted from Santis:

Good game it never gets old.

"Old, not obsolete"

9 months later
#10407 5 months ago
Quoted from little-italy:

Hey I just got in a t-2 and what do you'll recommend for speaker lights for aftermarket speaker kit thanks

For me, it is none.

#10424 5 months ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

Oh nothing a quick Sharpie can't fix

Then mylar over it

1 month later
#10569 4 months ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Can someone please make a picture of the power board with a close up if J120 and J121.
I need the wiring colour for both but someone hacked the molex, it's a mess.... and I'm not sure if the stupid new wiring connects to the correct colours...
Would be great, thanx in advance!
[quoted image]

From page 3-9 of the manual.
Screenshot_20231125-085618 (resized).pngScreenshot_20231125-085618 (resized).png

2 weeks later
#10613 3 months ago
Quoted from Calze:

1. The pin seems to need a little time to warm up like an old car engine. That means when you power it up and immediately start a new game, every time the volume is lower than normal and once and a while the game also goes dark after 2-3 minutes and restarts/reboots. But if you power the pin up and wait for 5 to 10 minutes everything runs stable and perfect for hours.

With power off, reseat J101 and J114 on the big power driver board and J210 on the MPU board. Nice to post a picture of the MPU board to check for battery corrosion.

Quoted from Calze:

2. When i make the „database“ shot i NEVER received „Autofire” as the random award. I know that these awards aren’t really random at all but not once in a hundreds of times?!

What software are you running. It will show when you turn on the game before it gets into attract mode.

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