I added new solder worked for me

I 3D printed one of those in black and it lasted only a year, broke at the rim section. I used PLA if that helps and could have been a bad print but did not replace at this time. A stainless steel version would be best.

I've had issues with a couple of these sockets on this board, they were visibly loose and a reflow fixed them.

I've also had intermittent issues with lights on this board that I thought were a diode issue but ultimately turned out to be a cracked solder joint at the base of one of the pins that the wiring harness connects too. Follow the traces from this socket back to the pins that drive it and reflow the solder at the base of the pins. Use a multi meter and run a continuity test from pin to socket for each leg on the socket and be aware of any diodes on the path, it will only test correctly in one direction. I'd also say lightly press on the pins when testing, my first continuity test on the pins came back good but it was because I was pressing on them with enough pressure to flex them and bridge the crack in the solder joint.

Ideally if you have a solder sucker, clear out the old stuff and apply some new solder. Reheating the old stuff should work though too.

Also doesn't hurt to pull the bulb, bend out the wire leads on each side at 45 degrees and reinstall.

Thank you

Let us all know what happens thanks

I recently did and posted about this so it may be me you're thinking of.

This is my easy man's answer (and what I did)
I would try to remove the socket. Then, wire brush the contact points on the socket and the board. This will clean them so it's a nice connection when you reinstall.

Reinsert the points and solder them. Be sure the points are inserted. My socket kind of stayed in place. So once it's in, just nicely and patiently add solder.

Hope you get it working sir!

A more flexible filament might be better? This is intriguing to me as well.

Plastic airball protectors as well as a missing plastic installed.

The plastics from Davi are amazing. He's awesome to work with. Plastics are nice and thick and fit perfectly. Outstanding product.

I was missing the mode start plastic so I picked one up at Action Pinball. After a bit of a wild goose chase with USPS my son tells me last night "oh I have mail in my backpack for you. A package ". Smh. Teenagers! Hahahaha

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I finally am at a point where I don't have to lift the playfield much. Mine is actually really tight so I didn't want to be lifting after I put these on. (I do have side art protectors which I recommend 100000%).

So it took me about 10 minutes. Used the wet method with a little Windex. They went on smooth and fit perfectly. I like the colors and integration into the playfield the most. Especially the pyramid and the jungle sections. The gun at launch is a nice touch.

These are super high quality and part of the decal package I have been posting about.

5 stars. Would recommend. Haha

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I ordered this set from AaronZOOM at @PinJewels. USPS really effed it up. It went to the wrong city for 3 weeks back and forth between distro center and delivery. After a couple hours on the phone, a trip to my local post office (where he told me "this one will be a challenge), and finally some luck, these actually arrived!!!!

The magnets are top quality and amazing. The decals for the targets are on foam and are equally as high quality as the magnets.

You can see the improvement with the before and after pics of the apron magnets!

This pretty much rounds out my mods for IJ. I'm not sure anything else will be happening.

P.s. these must be lucky because first game ntsalled, I put my GC on the game at 761m!

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Hey guys,

I need some help please. I’m missing the J2 connector and wiring from the bottom of the sound board to the two speakers in the back box.

I’m missing it because I have a pinsound board in there now with upgraded stereo wiring. I want to transfer the pinsound board to my LOTR and play with that, so I’m converting my IJ back to the stock sound board.

Can someone please pull the J2 connector and validate which 2 of 4 connector holes contain wiring then how the wiring is run to and between the speakers? My local distro is going to make the connector/wiring.

Thank you,
Jay

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Your third image (3082) shows the wiring. That is a wiring diagram. If you learn how to read these you will be much better in the long run. You won't need to rely on others for "simple" stuff like this. Do a search for "how to read a wiring diagram" and start doing some reading. Honestly, it will pay back in spades in the long run. It's your choice what you do. I have learned over the years that "you can lead a horse to water but you cannot make them drink". I had one person always re-butt this with something involving salt but I have never been able to convince (unfortunately) many people that learning how to fish is better than being given the fish.

It's easy to say that because you're already experienced and it's your job. I still don't understand electrical diagrams very well even after 4 years of this. It's much easier to visually see a photo of the wires for the seldom repair work the majority of us do rather than learning to read these diagrams. No photo currently on my phone for the speaker though sorry.

You don't know me. You don't know what I learned for education or lack thereof. You don't know what I do for a job or have done for jobs in the past.

I bought my first machine about 10 years ago. It blew a fuse. I had no idea what to do. I was scared to open it up. I was scared to replace the fuse. I wasn't sure what I was doing. How did I overcome this? I started reading and learning how to fish instead of being given the fish. It is really empowering.

We (usually) all start from the same point when we buy our first machine. The machine count invariably increases but beyond that, everyone's path is different. Everyone should do what's best for them. Take advice given on this forum. Ignore advice given on this forum. The choice is yours.

Looks like you had the correct page as DumbAss pointed out. Sometimes the solution is right in front of you

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Looks straight forward to me as well. He could be asking if this is indeed correct, but didn't state it.
edit. The confusion could be coming from that there are 3 pins and only 2 are used.

Good gawd...you must be a blast at parties. So much wisdom and amazing analogies!

A long time ago when I worked in a hospital (there you go, you got some more background I volunteered), I learned that you need to answer the question asked with the required information. If you did not do that then the test that you were requesting would not be performed.

I learned an even longer time ago from school (there you go, even more background information volunteered), that you had to answer the question that was being asked in the test. If they asked you to prove "Sin(2X) = 2 Sin(X) Cos(X)" then you had to prove that and not "Cos(2X) = 1 - Sin2(X)". You got no marks for proving the wrong thing.

Answer the question that was actually asked. Not the question you think was asked.

I'm the "boring old fart" you wished hadn't been invited.

Like this?

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I agree. Maybe this will help someone to think about what question to ask or what details to put in said question. Sometimes I have the same problem, I don't know what info to put in or how to ask.

I hated the whole SIN, COS, TAN thing. Later I had to take Calc II twice and it still didn't click.

I'm the "boring old fart" you wished hadn't been invited. Nah - I just think some people take your meaning the wrong way.

Is this the correct topper for this machine.

Inserts comic relief

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Looks fine to me . Could just be trying to keep you thinking of why you also need CFTBL: Buy the topper first, then the game.

Haha yes! Been waiting a month for mine to arrive. STI is super slow. I was reminded why I drive all over to pick up machines.

I was able to get the eyes working again with all my free time.

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Tell me. Depending on where you are. I had one move from Den, CO to around Det, MI pretty good pace about a week. Since I'm in the sticks in N MI, it took 3 more weeks to get here.

Yes that’s the right machine lol

You sell your own circuit boards. That's just slightly more involved than what the majority of pinball owners have a drive to learn. Six months or a year from now when he runs into his next issue and asks for a photo of a simple connector instead of spending 100+ hours learning to read an electrical diagram beforehand, you can tell him I Told You So.

He’d need 10 minutes tops to understand that diagram. And he really should understand it as working from a picture can cause a disaster if his game is different for whatever reason.

For the OP…
…the diagram shows the connector number and the pin numbers to be populated. Done.

IMHO, there are too many people who want to be told how to fix something while having no interest in using the opportunity to learn something. I’ll never understand that. But perhaps it’s just me.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball - My YT Channel
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Cool, thanks buddy. That validates what the tech and I thought from looking at the diagram. Hoping what he made for me works. Cheers.

If you live in the burbs like me, the pin can take only a few days to make it to the main terminal in the nearest big city but then it could take a week or more to make it out for local delivery because they try to batch the local deliveries. That’s why I’ll usually pick up from the large terminal which reduces the time.

I didn't take a picture of the speaker terminals, but my limited knowledge of speakers is even if wired backwards, will still work, but out of phase of other speakers (if applicable).

Thanks for the input. I was standing there in the shop looking at the diagram with the tech and trying to answer his questions so he could make the connector and wiring.

We had it figured out and I figured someone in the group here could help us validate it. I have helped others out with simple things like this before and I appreciate the effort others have made to help me out.

I’ve learned quite a bit from others here and the everyone is generally awesome. I am a bit surprised my request has caused a bit of a kerfuffle. Thanks again.

Not a problem, I just like hearing myself type.

Nice. Thats a word you don’t get to use every day. When I was a big hockey fan, attending many games, my buddy and I always tried to one up each other with synonyms for “fight”.

Thank goodness this didn’t turn into a full scale brouhaha or hullabaloo.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball - My YT Channel
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Or a rumpus, fracas, melee or…skirmish!!!

Yes, I use it, but I trimmed it so the ball transition from playfield to hole is seamless

Hi all, hadn’t played my IJ in awhile, turned it on to some wonky stuff. I had no DMD (color DMD) and solenoids kept firing over and over unless I opened the coin door. Replaced F116 and solved everything, except, the mini-playfield motors don’t work. The mini playfield test works, but then it fails when I try to move it. They are showing as Soilenoids 22/23 in the manual, not sure what fuse they tie to, but I tried changing out F112 (secondary solenoid, as I couldn’t find a fuse for the numbers 22/23), that didn’t work. Maybe a clue is that on the Power Driver board, LED 3 is lit, and in the manual is shows as “usually off”. All of the others LEDs are behaving as described in the manual.

The schematics show the wiring going through a Bridge Driver PCB to the miniPF motors, haven’t investigated that yet. Thanks for any thoughts! It’s been awhile since I’ve been under the hood, so a little rusty, appreciate any pointers.
Thanks!

Check the 100uf 35v cap on the board under the pf. That did it for me. There are a bunch of issues these old ones are causing. Board damage is one.

https://wizardsproducts.com/collections/frontpage/products/wizards-select-ceramic-detailer

Good evening, first post here

Have an IJ I recently purchased. It had a few issues with it that are now all fixed and game is working perfect. My question is is it worth while to try and fix the old CPU board, which I have already replaced with new board? Issues was row 3 of matrix was completely dead. And if worth fixing any suggestion on which components may be the cause of row 3 failing. TIA

Welcome! If you replaced the board and would like to get the original serviced. Send it here:

https://www.coinopcauldron.com/brepairs.html

It will take a couple months but they are super good at what they do.

Many / Some will devalue a game like IJ if it doesn’t have official CPU board (and certainly if it has Rottendog). Opinions will differ.

I recommend repair.

Kevin (sorry Kyle) who worked for macro and now for Stern stated in one of his pin tech videos. New boards do not devalue a game. So that is on the anal buyer not the market.

Kevin is welcome to his opinion.

lol sure that is what it is. But then and just for curiosity sake. All these people building home build IJ’s WH20’s, MM, TAF so those machines are not worth much?

I personally would like as much original stuff as possible, including the matching serial numbers on each board if possible. I would value a machine much higher based on this BUT wouldn’t stop me from buying them if they were a little Frankenstein. Just less attractive imo to crazy ocd anal buyers like myself. I have used 3rd party boards (Xpin, etc) in machines but I always keep the original boards/parts no matter the condition.

Yeah man, people will pay for what kind of pin they want. It is just a huge slippery slope to say OG boards makes a value of a pin go up. For example. An all original IJ that has been well maintained and doesn’t have wear or damage cool. There are those. Or people who brass out their IJ. People who put mods in it. People who powder coat them. People put titian rubbers in them. To me the playfield is the money maker. Because if the playfield is fantastic. All that other stuff was not meant to last forever. I want kornfreak’s planes! they are unbelievably awesome. So if I get those planes does it devalue my machine? No way! not imo! I would 100% say it increases the value. Anyway, taking about this stuff is healthy, arguing is not. I am not trying to argue or get in a pissing match with anyone. Just this dudes opinion.

Neither am I.

I will leave the following for those reading this thread (and are interested) with things to think about.

There are some design flaws or omissions on the OEM boards. Sometimes, they are serious. While it is true that almost all games have survived despite these flaws, there are some that have taken damage over the years.

There are also outdated and inefficient designs used on the OEM boards. Linear regulator circuits are inefficient and dissipate a lot of heat. Switching regulator circuits are much more efficient and can drastically reduce the amount of heat dissipation.

That being said, the one big advantage to using an OEM board is the familiarity of the circuits and design. Not all 3rd party (replacement) boards are re-designed (such as using MOSFETs instead of BJTs).

Thank you everyone for the replies.

I would like to repair the original board, not so much for value but more to see if I can actually do it. Sadly testing components is something I have not quite figured out. Been reading through posts here for awhile now trying learn what to test but haven’t come across a direct answer on what would cause row 3 of matrix to quit working.

As for the value concern, I picked the machine up for under $5k. It would not play, row 3 has the start button on it, no sound, lighting issues and it had dozens of lights/rubbers that needed replaced.

You can find a good guide to troubleshooting the switch matrix here : https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems

Good point I forgot about that! Thanks again for the help with my STTNG! Very much appreciated. I don’t have the machine any longer but a buddy does and I can still visit it.