Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
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Anyone replaced there single drop mech with the one from Marco? I did a couple years ago and it has worked great until now. Now during startup it is making this horrible noise like it can pop back up. I’m wondering if I need to tighten the spring for the return or maybe it’s something else? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Quoted from Manny65:With the drop target in the up position, raise the PF and manually slide the coil plunger and lifter up and down - does the plunger slide smoothly? If not can you see where it's binding - possibly the coil sleeve needs replacing. If the plunger slides smoothly, the next thing to do is to manually drop the target (just push the top of the target towards the back of the PF, this will push it off the little ledge that holds it up and the spring will pull the target down), it should snap down. Then try manually pushing the target target and see if you can feel drag - a little is expected but it should easily slide up and down. They can get bound up with grit & dust, and simply needs to be disassembled cleaned and put back together - the easiest way is to remove the mech and do this on a workbench (you should replace the coil sleeve while you have it out and also look for any wear or broken components, otherwise a quick clean and reassemble). Take note of the placement of washers and springs when removing the target from the mech, the manual shows the placement of the parts but photos can help if you need
Awesome info! I appreciate the details you have given! Thank you
Quoted from TicTacSeth:If just putting LEDs in, don’t do it from the top. It’s way easier to unscrew the lights below, replace and screw back in.
This may sound dumb but turn off the machine.
Quoted from PinballGalore:Here are my new ramps and bolts from pinball plating
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TZ spotting
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:I tried an internal sub upgrade only once. As soon as I heard an external, that was my only solution going forward. The sound wasn't even close to being comparable. Of course it helped that I bought a bunch of PSW10's for $79-$99 back in the olden days so it was actually the same price or cheaper to do an external anyway with what some of the options were out there.
Yeah I think I’m going to run the pinnovators mod and grab a psw10.
Quoted from Norcalpin:I did a psw10 tapping it into the cab sub and it sounds great. I’m sure pinsound and all those upgrades sound even better, but for $35 you can’t beat it.
I purchased an IM with pinwoofer system installed. It is amazing but that system runs like $400 something. So I’m going to try getting a psw10 for $150 and a pinnovator board for $35. Half the cost but I guess I’ll see the results pan out.
Quoted from shepP:Anyone successfully add star post leds under the slings? I can’t find a way to position them in such a way so that the board portion on the leds where the wires connect is not sticking out into the playfield waiting to be hit by a ball. I didn’t have this problem with my other bally/williams games. Doesn’t seems to be enough space under the slings because of where the GI is located in IJ.
No issues on mine
0022CE95-AF0A-4870-9B12-4021D065A365 (resized).jpeg8CBCF2C5-5646-4D5B-8EBA-4998E1144D2E (resized).jpegCCCFC0E7-FE9D-432C-83FF-1E7D46BBE966 (resized).jpegCDB49413-C3DE-42EE-AF41-1F9DEBDCE3BD (resized).jpegQuoted from Norcalpin:Hey All,
Probably a long shot, but I'm looking for an antidote. If anyone has a spare and would like to sell let me know!
Cheers
There is a guy in town with one. I don’t care for it. Get the mod that drops the saucer down. Reshape (bend down because it’s has probably been bent up over all the years of the ball hitting it) the steel bracket the ball bounces off and I placed a thin adhesive pad to that bracket. Works way better than antidote imo.
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:Interesting. It looks like you've replaced all your original boards on your IJ with Rottendog boards. I did the same thing a few years ago a it made a big difference in how my game plays. The new boards changed my game from a sluggish, tired game and brought it back to life big time. Like it was brand new again.
Did you have the same experience?
QSS
I was having voltage issues and reboots. So I ordered all the replacement boards and sent in all my old boards to be rebuilt. I didn't want my game down for months while waiting for the boards to be rebuilt. At that time I also had a TZ and TAF, the boards are pretty much all interchangeable. A few exceptions with TAF but I believe IJ and TZ are all the same other than the sound boards maybe diff. so I figured I would have backups for my other machines if a board failed in another machine. So once I got my IJ boards back from the repair shop; if I ran into a board issue with the other machines (which i did) it came in very useful to have backups. But long story short my IJ is working much better now.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Much better in what regard?
I thought my post was pretty self explanatory?
In regards that my GI headers on my original driver board were burnt to a crisp. So I was having GI flickering or out completely at times. Caps replaced makes flippers stronger. I had battery corrosion on the cpu board that was causing low voltages and reboots. I’m not a board expert but I think that contributes to the low voltage rebooting.
Original never rebuilt boards from games of this era would be unicorn. No matter how well a machine is taken care of the caps will eventually leak fail and cause damage.
Quoted from SiN13:Been spending the last month putting in a lot of work fixing up my Indy table and now that I’m starting to play it again regularly I’m realizing I really need to address this airball situation. I just about have a heart attack every time it happens and the last thing I need is my hard work getting getting torn up by these guys.
Is anyone still making and selling airball protectors for the drop targets? If not, does anyone have the design files for making my own? I’d greatly appreciate the help in protecting my hard work and reducing the jump scares.
I can’t remember who made them but the thicker longer plastic over the 3 bank is magical! The single drop one isn’t really necessary imo. But if you can find or someone can help you get the three bank, definitely grab one.
Quoted from beltking:Restore coming along well. Now just need some parts to finish up from Marco.
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How do you add a shaker motor to IJ? With a pinsound board?
This happened last night. Before I dig into this, does anyone know how this scoop goes together? It’s been awhile and I can’t remember? I just want to know what I am getting into with repairing this thing? Do you think it’s a busted weld? Broken metal or just screws that came out? Any knowledge is appreciated. Thanks!
71DEE8C2-5202-4095-854B-209F90A698E8 (resized).jpegSo this scoop is attached to the subway underneath? I am trying to assess the magnitude of this project.
Took 10 minutes to take down. Looks like wood screws. Going to fill with wood glue and tooth picks and put back together. Pretty simple project on the off chance this ever happens to anyone else.
The first time I heard fish of tales I was like, wtf lol
Have you guys ever held both flippers then hit start. Go to mine cart, and crash through the 4th right closed gate? It is so awesome!!!
Quoted from billsfanmd:Been a while since Ive posted on thread so not sure what has changed in a few years....If anyone can post a reply that would be great. Looking at an indy with rough faded cab. Is anyone make new cabs with art applied? Is POA motor and opto board still avail? Is there still a new mod shot bracket which helps with kick outs? Thx in advance
I did a re-decal on my IJ a couple of years ago. It was a project. I got my decals from ministry I believe? I’ve heard radcals are way easier to install. I might have a poa board and motor? The boards are for sale still, the motor check at Marco. As far as the trough or kick outs I’ve never had issues.
Quoted from Chosen_S:can anyone tell me what recommended roms to use for MPU and sound?
L-7 & L-3 I believe
Matt’s basement arcade is where I’ve gotten roms before.
Quoted from Manny65:It's quite common for Indy games to get airballs off the 3 drop target, as well as sometimes off the single drop target. In fact WMS put the shield on the lower left of the PF to catch airballs that would otherwise go into the out lane and they also implemented ball saves to help address the problem.
The idea behind the airball protectors is to extend a plastic out over the top of the drop targets to deflect any airballs back down on to the PF
The 3 bank plastic that I believe I purchased from Davi is thicker and a bit longer. Works fantastic, highly recommended!
I ended up taking out the blue flipper coils and putting orange in. Not sure if I had bad drop targets in but they kept snapping with the blue coils?
Quoted from Heretic_9:I've been wondering about that very thing myself for a long time. I did a couple times get a so-very-brief glimpse of the EB that I presume is the top goal on Raven Bar, but never came close to scoring it. There must be some trick to this, which hopefully turns up in this thread. Who's the expert who makes all those learned 'How Best To Play ___' videos, either for YT or PAPA ? (Bowen, I think.) Kept hoping he might have addressed this.
After the Extra Ball is the Medallion! That’s the end of the mode.
Quoted from SiN13:That is a really nice looking machine. Was there no Super Ball button on the early models?
no I dont think so. I turned the buy in off on my machine. Because unlike TZ there isnt a separate scoring table for buy in games. So if you just buy in and get the GC or on the leader board that is kinda lame IMO.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Kinda makes a neat, inexpensive topper!
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I'd like to see the entire machine with this topper to get a feel for it better. if you wouldn't mind?
Quoted from Heretic_9:I think the GC score on my Indy is a tad over 2.5B . . . but that was on a 5 ball game, so not really comparable. Where to find out more about the Indy Wizard Mode ? Have never seen it, wasn't even sure one existed. Also never reached if for TAF, and some other noted examples. (But I think TAF may have had more than one Wizard Mode, which may be pretty uncommon on these games ?) I did get to "Lost in the Zone" on TZ 3 or 4 times, at Banning.
The wizard mode on IJ is activated when you get through all 12 modes in the inserts in the middle of the playfield. The game will start making this alert noise and you hit the mode start again for eternal life. During the wizard mode you have an opportunity to hit every switch for a billion points. 6 ball multiple ball. I think maybe the best method is grab as many random switches while all 6 balls are out. Then when you get to a controllable amount of balls trap one and start going for the path to get those switches. I’ve never been able to do it.
Quoted from Heretic_9:Thanks for that rundown. No wonder I've never seen this Wizard Mode: I've never gotten through all of those base modes, and probably not even come close to doing so. Not any great chance of that happening, either. (Were you including the Video Modes in that count ?)
Yeah, the video modes count. Imo the video modes in this game are some of the best of the era. All three are fun and completable! The hidden Easter egg in the mine cart is absolutely hilarious!
I used a pinnovators $35 jumper that goes into the sound board then you run a wire to you sub input. Super easy and sounds good.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Nice. And it still allows sound to the other speakers, right? I’m assuming it does, or you’d only have sound coming from your external sub, and that might lack all the mid and high range sound. I should have bought more Polk subs when they were $100.
Yes it does. No kidding $100 was a great deal!
I was playing the other night and my POA slid forward and got hung up on the ramp. I was confused at first until I realized the set screw in the back let loose and allowed this to happen. I usually get out my level and try to get it as level as possible. This time I just eyeballed it and tighten. The POA has never worked better lol. Just dumb luck works better than trying to be precise. Don’t you hate it when the ball rides either side and goes right into the pit hole on top. Now I can have the path bank to either side and it won’t do that. Just hope that screw doesn’t come loose again! I should loctite it!
Quoted from SiN13:Similar issues here as well. All my remaining issues on my Indy are with that darn POA. Ball half the time doesn't drop into it when the post releases. Full tilt left or right and the ball travels so fast it rebounds off the walls into the pit. When moving left the motor stutters, I think that's an opto issue. Lot of things going on up there and I'm too burned out to deal with it right now. I got some Cliffy stuff on order that will require it's removal so I'll look at it then.
been through all of that! it was crazy how dumb luck with the set screw and now it doesnt fly down the pit right away. The not coming out of the ramp, I believe this is a pitch issue. Slightly pitch your machine up and see if that helps. i think that is how I fixed mine. never moving my machine again lol
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:Hello! I am having a weird issue with the drop bank target. On first ball, and subsequently every time the drop target resets, I am getting four to five extra pops from the coil. It lifts the drop targets into position, then pops them a few more times. They don’t drop back down though and the game plays normally until all three need to come back up. Then I get the several pops.
I took it apart, everything seems to be
Okay. I cleaned the optos with alcohol on a swab and there was nothing on it. Bad opto board? Or is this a driver board issue?
I do get the Err Drop Bnk Bad Switch/Coil on the test. When I do the coil test it does not repeat itself, just acts normally.
Thanks for any advice!
I’m guessing a switch. That’s what my shooter lane Solenoid would do when my shooter lane switch was sticking. It would fire the ball and then the coil would fire 3-4 more times.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:Has anyone tried one of these yet on their IJ? Stand alone shaker. I believe it plugs into the cpu board?
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Installed and it is pretty awesome! Not a bad install either. If you don’t want to install a full pinsound sound system this is a great alternative.
How about this debate. While I don’t care about having original boards in a machine. Some people believe that all original boards and matching serial numbers raise the value of their pinball machine. However back the original question: I am not sure if I would pay more for scratch machine over an original. It is interesting and I’m certain this will become more common in the coming years with so many people scratch building machines. People don’t pay more for kit made cars over originals.
It’s all what the buyer is willing to pay. But I do have Kyle with Marco pinball on the record stating that all original boards do not make a game worth more. Now this is all opinion based and everyone can vote with their money. Time and sales data will speak to how the market will react when these situations become more prevalent.
I would be interested in EStroh 2 cents since he is making a lot of scratch build machines.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Created a thread here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-type-of-build-do-you-prefer), so that you guys can get back to Indy talk, ha. Now for IJ, are there any parts that are truly unobtainable that need to be replaced with something close? I could see something like that possibly lowering the value in a scratch build.
This should be interesting!
But I did bring this up in the IJ thread because I have an IJ and I have been completely rebuilding it for years. Since this machine has skyrocketed in value since 2019 I try to keep a market value of my machine. To my surprise I didn’t know so many people are building their own machines. So hence my curiosity.
Quoted from Ricochet:I’m not sure people who scratch build machines do so as an investment or are concerned with value. I believe it is done for the joy. This is a terribly expensive hobby and if you have the time and resources to scratch build an IJ … you’re probably not counting pennies.
Yeah man I get all that but these machines will eventually hit the market. i would have never even brought it up or thought much about it.. however in the last 12 months I have heard of some high-end Bally Williams machines being scratch built. (Hell I have sold parts to 2 people building addams and IJ and Its not like I am some huge distribution center for parts) and they are counting their pennies because I sold many of these parts for under market value! lol I was shocked on how many people are doing. People do not live forever and people do not always hold on to a machine forever. Maybe I am am 10 steps ahead the market but it was just a inquiry in an open forum where this is what this part of the site was created for.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Like many things in pinball, it probably comes down to the buyer. I have sold restored pins to buyers for whom original, matching boards were very important. They aren’t important to me, personally, but it’s a nice bonus if they happen to match. I bought a beautifully restored TZ with new cab and pf, and several boards are new, not original. It didn’t matter to me, but that’s just me. My Indy is a scratch build, but does feature original boards. I think there are buyers for every kind of pin, original, restored, project, so it all depends on who the buyer is, and what speaks to them. There are pros and cons to 30+ year old boards, as components don’t last forever and need upgrading. And some new boards lack certain features or quality or can be more difficult to work on. Like new cabs, playfields, etc, there are pros and cons for most things. If you have a fully working Indy that plays well and you can enjoy in the 30th anniversary year, you are really lucky!
Hey you bought my Dr Who and I think that had all original boards in it plus a moving Dalek topper which is rare. But for most people original boards don’t even come up ever in a sale. I’ve sold 29 pins in my 23 years of doing this and not one person has ever asked me if the boards are all original. I guess there is probably a small percentage of people out there who care. I don’t.. In fact, One of my biggest problems with a purchase is old hacked boards. They are junk and then I have to send them to Clive Jones to fix them! Just bought a champion pub, the shining star in that purchase: a brand new driver board. Why because they go for a little over $400 now. And I don’t have to deal with some crispy hacked up board!
Anyhow been working on my IJ this week about 12 hours so far. Upgrading the heck out of it. Rebuilt with all new components 12 mechs so far. All new coils, plungers, springs, coil stops. My IJ has almost all new parts in it.
Over the last 4 years I’ve put in all new boards except the sound board. I’ve been slowly replacing everything. New cabinet decals, legs, levelers, new mirrored back glass, new ribbon cables, new star posts, new speaker panel, new speakers, new ruin set, some new plastics, new side rails, new color dmd. Countless hours and thousands of dollars are going into this machine. I love this machine, it’s my favorite pin hands down. So while I have been watching the market value skyrocket with this machine it helps justify the huge investment in upgrades I have poured into it. Hahaha
So because this is my pride and joy I was curious about the scratch builds and if their value would be the same, more, or less than a machine like mine? Not that it really matters. Just curiosity I guess.
Quoted from fanuminski:Had a flasher transistor replaced in my power board and after removing / replacing bad transistor / re-install
my flippers don't work. (no solenoid power) . Pictures were'nt taken before unplugging everything and removing the
board and I can't see anything not plugged in - but maybe something plugged in wrong. (fuses all look fine)
any ideas or way you can tell by the pics - or can someone send me a pic of theirs that I can compare?
thanks
M
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Pretty sure J104 if plugged in correctly should fix your issue.
Quoted from fanuminski:Had a flasher transistor replaced in my power board and after removing / replacing bad transistor / re-install
my flippers don't work. (no solenoid power) . Pictures were'nt taken before unplugging everything and removing the
board and I can't see anything not plugged in - but maybe something plugged in wrong. (fuses all look fine)
any ideas or way you can tell by the pics - or can someone send me a pic of theirs that I can compare?
thanks
M
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I believe this is what’s eluding you. White with blue stripes find this and plug it in.
Quoted from fanuminski:thanks so much! Yep, that wire was tucked behind the board - fished it out and plugged it in and everything's fine!
Thanks!
Mike
Glad I could help!
I’m have an intermittent problem with my idol mech. Sometimes during long games it stops working? If I end the game, go into test, it works fine. Play more games, it works is fine. One theory I have is that I have added too many led lights (3 led trough style strips,12 star post lights, and the arc mod). So when I am in a middle of a long game with a mode going and multiball going the idol stops working sometimes. It happens during multiball. Never during well of souls or eternal life. So possibly with a mode and multiball going and all the flashers I am drawing more voltage than the game can handle and it stops the idol? Or my 12volt emi board that runs the idol malfunctions? Or my optos get confused? I noticed during the last malfunction the flasher located under the idol would try and flash the idol would try and spin but it wouldn’t? So strange. Immediately went into test and it tested fine. Hopefully someone has ran into this issue. Thank you
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:I’m have an intermittent problem with my idol mech. Sometimes during long games it stops working? If I end the game, go into test, it works fine. Play more games, it works is fine. One theory I have is that I have added too many led lights (3 led trough style strips,12 star post lights, and the arc mod). So when I am in a middle of a long game with a mode going and multiball going the idol stops working sometimes. It happens during multiball. Never during well of souls or eternal life. So possibly with a mode and multiball going and all the flashers I am drawing more voltage than the game can handle and it stops the idol? Or my 12volt emi board that runs the idol malfunctions? Or my optos get confused? I noticed during the last malfunction the flasher located under the idol would try and flash the idol would try and spin but it wouldn’t? So strange. Immediately went into test and it tested fine. Hopefully someone has ran into this issue. Thank you
This happened again last night. During well of souls a ball in the idol confused the machine. I think I just need to take the idol apart and clean the opto’s. (Or check the opto’s soldering & reflow or replace opto’s) One thing in all my years of having these machines I have never had this issue. Hence I have never figured out how to remove this mech. From the bottom it seems pretty simple just remove the screws and unplug. However I have no clue as to release the actual idol so I can disassemble the top side of the mech? Anyone who can assist me with this would be greatly appreciated.
yeah this is were I am at a loss? is the set screw underneath because i can not see anything on the top side?
This has turned into a super frustrating experience. Years ago I purchased a new idol cradle plastic to install one day when my idol needed to be overhauled. Well the disassembly went well. Even soldering in the top side new opto’s. but then to try and re-screw in this new plastic. The screw holes must not be tapped for the screws. The screws are so long and it got so incredibly tight I started stripping out the screw head. I went and purchased new hex head screws (1/4 inch shorter even) so I could get a driver on them to finish getting them in. No dice! The dam head busted off the screw!!! Unbelievable. Luckily I was able to get the 2 other screws in and the plastic is secured and installed now. I don’t know if I even want to bother installing the 3 new opto’s that go under the mech anymore today. I’m so mad I feel like listing this dam Machine! 
IMG_6486 (resized).jpegIMG_6487 (resized).jpegIMG_6488 (resized).jpegQuoted from DumbAss:The optos for the idol lock are only used to detect the position (1 of 6). The idol test verifies it is working correctly. These optos have nothing to do with balls in the idol lock (other than the position corresponds to expected balls in the idol lock). Presumably, the software uses the ball trough indicators and idol lock position to correlate expected state.
When it comes to opto pairs, it is almost always the LED transmitter that is problematic. These are driven hard for a long time. The LED transmitter is always on as long as the machine is on. That is a lot of on hours if they are original to the machine.
Interesting thanks for the post. Now which one is the led; the white one or the black one?
Quoted from JMK:I believe it’s the white one which is the transmitter; and this is the one which I’m pretty sure I had to replace on my IJ. (Can’t recall if I replaced the black one as well).
There are 3 sets underneath and 1 set on top. To replace all of them would be a lot of work. And I haven’t a clue which one malfunctions? They seem to work at times and always during the test. So I was thinking of replacing all the white ones? What a mess!
Quoted from DumbAss:The green board with the white plastic housing is the LED transmitter.
The blue board with the black plastic housing is the receiver (phototransistor).A few points to note:
It is better to replace the transmitter and receiver at the same time with a matching pair (i.e. transmitter of the same wavelength that the phototransistor has a peak response). This is not required. The common wavelengths are 880nm and 940nm.
If you replace the phototransistor then ensure you have the correct lead orientation. The transmitter is a standard LED that emits infraled light. The phototransistor could either have a long lead that is the collector or the emitter. Consult the datasheet of the phototransistor that you purchase. Purchasing a new board does NOT guarantee that it will work out of the box. There are manufacturers out there who sell (through merchants) boards with the phototransistor installed with incorrect polarity.
Be sure you put back the opto pair in the position that you removed it from. I have had to troubleshoot an idol where the person took it out for cleaning or replacing but placed (screwed) the opto pairs in the wrong position. This confused the idol test and therefore confused the game.It could be that the load on your unregulated 12V (+12VU) is too much at times. Make sure you haven't loaded it down with modifications that draw power from +12VU. Common modifications are ColorDMD or LED strips. These can draw excessive current and load down the +12VU to the point where it can interfere with opto state detection.
Ok I am not a good soldering guy but I replaced all the white boards and installed the mech and it is working under the test mode.
The 12/v current was the hole I was coming out of on my initial post but no one commented on it so I thought maybe I was making that up. Like I stated in that post I have added a bunch of led lights to the machine. So I had heard from a Jersey Jack tech that adding too many LED’s can draw down the current and stall or confuse the system on these wpc machines. But it seems like people are adding crazy amounts of mod’s and lights to their machines and I have heard nothing on pinside about this being an issue. But of course with my luck it happens to me.
Quoted from DumbAss:It depends on the circumstances.
The Idol motor is an inductive load. The Path of Adventure motor is an inductive load. The machine has two inductive loads. Inductive loads have a high current draw to start the inductive process (turn the motor). This depends purely on the game circumstance (what's going on the in the game at the time the load is placed on the system).
The opto transmitters have a fixed load on the system. They draw about 40mA per transmitter. That's just the transmitter. This game has 20 (7 + 10 + 3) opto pairs. It also has slotted optos (such as the Path of Adventure board as well as the drop target board). Every opto has a draw on the system but the slotted optos draw a little less. For 20 transmitters at 40mA that's 800mA. That doesn't even count the detection circuitry that also operates on the same +12VU.During multiball (Well of Souls = SIX ball multiball), there are plenty of opportunities for the Idol motor to start and stop. Add to that all the other loads in the +12VU circuit and then some "random" timing where the load is simultaneously high and you could cross the threshold from borderline to failure. Oh, and then add all the fixed draw of the modifications. LED strips and ColorDMD.
Remember that machines that don't have a high baseline load and no motors can have more modifications placed onto the +12VU without manifesting a failure. If heavily loaded but the simultaneous draw does not push it into the failure zone then you won't see a failure. Or it might manifest a failure that then corrects and the machine owner simply ignores it as a "glitch".
I think you get the picture. Just because someone doesn't report a problem doesn't mean the system is borderline at failure. If you want to have modifications in your system, I recommend putting them on their own power supply (circuit). Get a switching power supply or a cheap 12V power brick. Correct game play is more important than an LED strip.
Awesome information. For an experiment I am going to unplug all my led strips and play the machine. If I am not getting the idol glitch I will then start plugging them in 1 at a time until I reach my threshold. Hopefully then I know my limitation on the auxiliary lights.
You are absolutely correct, an LED light is not as important as game play!
Thanks again.
Noticed something odd last night. When in either two or three ball multiball. The coin slot lights turn off. There is something not right going on? When the multiball is over they turn back on?
Quoted from orlandu81:Coin slot lights are linked to the Lite Hands of Fate. When that is off, the coin door lights are off.
Now I noticed my mode start is flashing instead of being on until the mode starts. I guessing the diode in that socket may have failed?
Quoted from orlandu81:This is normal. It should be flashing.
Really? I don’t think it has ever flashed before? I switched MPU’s yesterday. I went back to a rebuilt Williams MPU rather than the rottendog I had I there for the last 3 years. when I did that a switched the game rom to an older L-7 I had. The L-7 I have had I there was from Matt’s basement arcade. The strange part is. The mode start was lit solid for most of the game. Then towards the end of the game it started flashing when a new mode was available?
All this seems very peculiar?
Quoted from orlandu81:It has always flashed. I'll let others chime in to confirm. I have had an original MPU and the Rottendog in my machine. It has always flashed. The only solid lit lights besides GI are the "Lite Hand of Fate" and as mentioned, the corresponding Coin Door return slots.
Yeah super strange lol I just watched an old PaPa game stream and it is flashing in that stream. I feel like I’m going insane lol
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:Can anyone explain how to remove the plastic idol toy? I can loosen the nut on the underside that controls the opto disk but I cant figure out how to remove the top. Thanks in advance!
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It’s a pain, push the ball release gate down and you will see a set screw you will loosen with an Allen wrench.
Has anyone ran into a POA malfunction that when the path does not set to home the error comes as an idol failure? My idol tests and works properly but I have noticed that my path does not set to home much anymore. Whenever the path is not set correctly I get an error that says my idol is broken? The path is totally banked to one side and says it has passed but then comes up with an idol error. please help
Well I replaced my POA opto board and it is working properly now. However I still get the idol error but it tests fine every time? So frustrating
I don’t know. Changed out the 3 sets of optos in the idol. I cleaned the ones in the subway trough. Maybe I should change the opto set on top of the idol? And check the opto’s in ball popper up to the idol? I swapped out the path boards, path is working great. I swapped out the 10 opto board? So other than all new opto’s connecting to the idol. Could a bad diode on a lamp socket cause this problem? I have heard bad diodes can be very problematic. Only other idea I have is redoing the connectors?
Quoted from Williampinball:Which is better ,I would guess the CDMD
Well I don’t know, but I think it’s a cheaper alternative. Vastly superior, might be a bit of an overstatement.
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:That idol cup is pretty much unobtainable. Someone was printing after market ones but they’re not the same. I wouldn’t cut it
Quoted from SiN13:I just got to take a second here and process the fact that both of you casually have a Krull machine hanging out in the back. What are the odds of that.
I looked it up and looks like only 10 were produced. That is pretty wild.
I am wondering if it is ok or if anyone has wired an arc mod (or any other style mod with lights) to a flasher socket? Or is the voltage too high and this should not be done?
Quoted from Pinkitten:If the flasher is 13v, as many are, Comet does sell 13v wedge and bayonet bulbs. I added 13v lamps to my CCr connected to the coin door return lamps, which are 12 or 13v on CGC coin doors. If you want a mod to be lit when a 13v flasher is on, you can do it. You just have to add your own 13v LED light.
That is basically what I found out. The arc mod is a 5v lamp. So this would not have worked.
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Ironically right after I bought this CV in 2018 I could have bought a IJ for $3500. I had just spent $3600 buying the CV and was out of room so I passed on it.
CV has been my most loned out pin also, it's probably only been in my possession half the time since I've owned it. I do a lot of temp trading and any time I say I have a CV along with other games for temp trade options the CV gets picked.
wow an IJ for 3500 in 2018 would have been a fantastic buy. unless it was totally roached out. I sold my first IJ in 2001 or 2002 for 3500!
I want to bring in a CV sometime. it is a fun game. Good luck in your endeavors!
I had something like this. My idol would get confused and it is a hard issue to fix. What I did and I think it fixed it? - changed the opto’s in the idol. (At least clean them) Make sure your trough doesn’t have a dimple that a ball can get stuck on. Because the computer uses the ball trough to communicate with the idol. The idol optos only tell the computer the position of the idol. I believe the trough keeps the count of the balls. (Maybe get one of those plastic sleeves to go in the trough). Also clean and test the opto’s in the subway to the idol. And there are some in the pop mech up to the idol. Lots of optos to test and clean. Also could be boards but unlikely. My driver board had a lose fuse that powered the idol. The opto boards look for any suspicious burning or hot spots. Lose wires, cold solder joints. So much to look at. Believe me I know your pain this issue sucks to deal with.
Quoted from PBFan:I had a similar issue years ago and it eventually started giving me an idol error. It turned out to be a cold solder joint in one of the idol optos. However, I put together a pretty extensive guide on how things related to the idol work. Please refer to the link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-indiana-jones-idol-troubleshooting-guide#post-5623060
Good luck.
Following! Where were you months ago when I was pulling my hair out with this issue. Hahaha great thread to follow for all IJ owners!
On my POA the set screw that is closest to the path on the top. Keeps coming loose! Has anyone ran into this? If so did you try loctite? I crank that puppy with a screw driver on my Allen wrench and it still works loose.
Quoted from Williampinball:That’s odd maybe try loctite or a new set screw if u have one
Yeah it has come loose a few times this year. Ok thanks!
Do you think Marco would have it?
Quoted from Chosen_S:Ace is the place (ace hardware nut and bolt section)
Ok cool, I live really close to one of those! Thanks!
Probably pick up some loctite there too.
Not sure, but maybe if the POA board fails the motor will not work either? The little board is fairly easy and inexpensive to swap.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0426-00
Not sure if it is on a dedicated fuse? You could check for that?
Not sure if there is a motor drive board underneath. Sometimes those little boards fail.
I’m really not sure lol but those are things I would start with. Other than checking for a wire that may have come unsoldered.
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:Went ahead and got the $20 topper. Don’t tell Stern
[quoted image]
Nice! Also is that a leg lamp?
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:Ha! Looks like it but it’s a Victorian floor lamp. Kinda fit the Indy vibe
[quoted image]
Oh! Well that’s cool too!
I’d like to get a set of the brass looking mirror blades. Anyone have a link to purchase them? I don’t like my pingraffix I put in my machine either.
Quoted from DeeGor:Pinball decals sells some
https://pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html
Thanks! And holy smokes those are spendy!!
Quoted from Mike_M:Thanks Ricochet for open sourcing Lao's Antidote!
A buddy of mine put that in his machine. I went with dropping my saucer down and re-bending the ball guide behind it. I also placed a piece of felt on the ball guide to dampen the blow when the ball hits it.
I prefer my method to the antidote. But whatever makes people the most satisfied is the objective.
Quoted from Pinstein:Back in the club after about 5 years. I finally finished setting up my game complete with new decals and a lot more mods. I posted a ton of pics and didnt want to bog down this thread. Check out my Indiana Jones PoA "Champagne Edition." thread. Heres a link.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-poa-champagne-edition
That’s pretty awesome man! Great job!
Quoted from SiN13:These are the ones I've had my eye on. Like a few others I'm worried about the install. I've installed 2 now on Stern Spike 2 machines by removing the playfield which is really easy since it's like 3 cables. I'm not sure what I will do on Indy. I really don't want to disconnect all that wiring. I'm wondering if I could get a second person to manage the playfield position as I install them. I might also look into that Rapid Tac stuff. There was a post on here a while back where someone installed art blades on top of mirror blades first and then installed the mirror blades. I have a pair of mirror blades sitting here meant for Toy Story but I really don't think there is room on that machine for them so I might try that as well.
I installed some a few months ago by myself with the playfield in. It is not that difficult if you take your time. The hardest part is remembering to protect them! I ripped on the next day.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:The LEDs by my slings went dark on me. Seems to be the only light that’s are out. Any ideas how to diagnose and fix this?
Thx[quoted image]
This looks like all lower GI from the pic?
Quoted from PinDeadHead:If I want to use an app external power supply to power additional lighting, what do you recommend?
Not sure what exactly you’re saying? But some people plug right into the service outlet or get an external power supply that either wires into the power supply or uses a jumper off the driver board.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Thank you for the tip. It was indeed fuse F109. My local distributor sold me five fuses for $3, then a $2 pick set from Harbor Freight and voila!
Glad I could help!
Quoted from Chosen_S:Does anyone have these installed?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/bally-williams-indiana-jones-pinblades
IMG_6238.jpegIMG_6240.jpegQuoted from Pinkitten:Sometimes when I earn an extra ball, the extra ball sequence is shown on the dmd, but there is no sound. Other times, I think it’s Sallah, yells “extra ball!” and there is a knocker. Is this a known thing, or peculiar to my machine?
I have that same issue. Sometimes the extra ball call out and knock and sometimes nothing no call out or knocker. I am wondering if that is the replay extra ball is silent, but why no knocker? My replay is like 700k now lol so I don’t see it that often haha
IJ playfield for sale for $5500? Wow! People are starting to sell their IJ’s for 9-11k. Even if you got your IJ machine for 4-6k would you feel comfortable in this market to pay $5500.00 for a playfield alone? Anyhow, I still have my original MM playfield that I am sure with the right skill set someone could restore. Someone offered me $250 for it a while back and I thought no way. I told him that if someone could restore and re-clear an original playfield properly. people will buy it easy for $1500 - $2000
Here is mine. If you want to restore this one and sell it for $4000.00, heck good luck getting $3000 I’d be happy to part with it for the right price. But that price is not $250 lol I’d hang it in my wall for that.
IMG_7665.jpegIMG_7666.jpegIMG_7667.jpegIMG_7671.jpegImo the antidote doesn’t work as good as dropping the saucer and bending down the metal. I put felt on the metal too. I don’t know, my buddy has the antidote and I think it sucks. Just my opinion.
Quoted from plovis:Hey folks, could use help with an ongoing idol issue.
I'm getting the idol error consistently upon startup. However when I run idol test, the switches and motor test fine and the error is cleared. I replaced the three optos on the idol itself, pulled the subway and cleaned every opto in between the ball lock and idol, checked all the connections, reseated the connections between the idol and the relay board, nothing obvious was evident. After all of that, the issue did go away for awhile, but just resurfaced the other day. Again, error just pops up during start up, but subsequently running idol test shows no issues and clears the error. The problem is much more annoying than anything, but I'm guessing you can get how frustrating that can still be.
I realize idol issues are a topic that ranks maybe just behind mode hole opinions here, but I've tried most suggested fixes that I've come across and am still coming up empty. Before I start trying pricier things like swapping out the motor, just thought I'd throw this out here. Any thoughts appreciated.
I had something similar and dealt with it for a couple months. It can be caused by so many different reasons. If you haven’t read through this, give this a try:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-indiana-jones-idol-troubleshooting-guide#post-5623060
Quoted from shepP:For the rollover lanes on IJ I've got 3 bulbs lighting up the red plastic lane guides like everyone else. I would like to add a socket to the 4th lane guide nearest the captive ball. Does anyone know the part number I'm looking for? I checked the manual but couldn’t figure it out.
If you successfully add this light would you please document it on here. I pondered about doing this years ago, but I was too nervous and not experienced enough. Great Idea btw!
Quoted from insight75:Anyone know where I can get a set of bolts for the gun shooter? The ones that hold the 2 halves together?
I think you might try your local hardware store. Marco last time I looked had sold out or discontinued.
Quoted from rx3:I did a quick 10 second search and found something close. I'm sure I could have found them if I put more time into the search. Yes I'm lazy. This should give you an idea of what to search for. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/HOLO-KROME-650000270-Finish-Button-Socket/dp/B0929772NW/ref=sr_1_5
I purchased this set and none of the sizes fit. would need to be cut down if possible
I was just playing my buddies TZ and after playing for a bit. And I am guessing once the boards start heating up. The sound starts cutting out. It starts when the machine is doing heavy animations and sounds like jackpots. Then as the game heats it’s starts to become more and more frequent. I bring it up in here because I sold my TZ and they run the same dcs system as IJ. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I already resat all the connections, ribbon cables, connectors, and pressed on the chip sets on the boards. I checked the grounds and made sure all the boards were snug. My guess is something is getting too hot or voltage drops when the game gets hot. Like I said all works fine until the game heats up. Thanks again!
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:It’s a stock sound board? Maybe post a pic?
Yes I believe all boards are stock. The cpu isn’t but all boards look good and no caps appear swollen? Nothing looks crispy. Not sure when I am going to get back down to his place and I don’t have any pics on me.
Quoted from SiN13:I'm not sure TZ has DCS. I think Indy was the first and it came out after TZ. I could be wrong but it probably doesn't matter in regards to what is causing the issue. Might try posting this in the TZ owners thread as well but it seems like a generalized issue and not TZ specific. Is it bad that if this happened to me I'd be like oh well time to upgrade to pinsound
Well maybe TZ didn’t use DCS… now the more I think about it I don’t think so. Anyway, I thought maybe Someone would say yeah that’s familiar and try this… I believe this could be the result of the DmD board, the mpu or driver boards. I don’t really want to tell him to start replacing boards when it could be from another board. Low voltage, bad caps, bad memory chip. But what jumps out at me is the machine plays the music perfectly at first. Then after awhile it starts acting up and then it really starts cutting out all the time. Seems like the more heating up it gets worse. I can post in TZ or the facebook help group. I just didn’t want too.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:TZ and IJPA do not use the same sound board.
Yeah I already stated that in the post above yours.
I finally figured this out today. I believe someone else recently asked about this. In the single bank drop. From time to time when I turned on my machine it would make this strange zip zip noise and that single bank would throw a credit dot up saying bad switch or coil. It also happens every once in awhile during game play. I thought I had the mechanism misaligned or it was binding in the opening. What I discovered is the switch on the bottom right sometimes wasn’t getting activated so the machine thinks the target is up and keeps firing the coil to release it to go down. The mech is down but the switch wasn’t registering. Switch adjustment is all that is needed. I almost replaced that mech again. Everyone probably knows this already but for the off chance someone else gets frustrated with why that is happening this may be helpful.
IMG_0727 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinDeadHead:Hey Sheev,
Thanks for sharing this. My single drop coil fires 3 times upon start up test and I occasionally receive the single drop coil/switch error which clears when I hit the drop during a game.
Someone mentioned years ago in this thread they solved the same issue by lowering the drop target’s down position 1-2 notches further down which makes me think the target would push that switch down more and press the switch button in the down position.
When you adjusted the switch. Did you loosen the two small bolts the push the switch up towards the ceiling?
Can this be done without removing the mech and disconnecting the wiring from the lugs?
Many thanks,
Jay[quoted image]
I actually got the error again last night so I have to dive into it. I’ll report back once I know more.
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Hey Sheev,
Thanks for sharing this. My single drop coil fires 3 times upon start up test and I occasionally receive the single drop coil/switch error which clears when I hit the drop during a game.
Someone mentioned years ago in this thread they solved the same issue by lowering the drop target’s down position 1-2 notches further down which makes me think the target would push that switch down more and press the switch button in the down position.
When you adjusted the switch. Did you loosen the two small bolts the push the switch up towards the ceiling?
Can this be done without removing the mech and disconnecting the wiring from the lugs?
Many thanks,
Jay[quoted image]
Ok I remember now. I just adjusted the wire actuator that triggers the switch. When inspecting this again it seems I might have a cold solder joint on the switch. Because when it comes to testing, it tests fine every time. But I bumped the wires and it stopped working momentarily. Starting to think I need to hit that again with my iron. I’m not that great of a solder guy. Also remember with that set screw on the bottom of the mech with the wing nut. you can raise and lower it a bit. But be mindful, don’t get it to the point the ball will get stuck in the hole. Best to do this with the mech in the machine for proper placement. Also, yes the two screws adjuster on the switch may come in handy. Case by case scenario I bet. Now onto the POA LOL I had a marathon game last night and all sorts of things went haywire.
I thought it was a bit strange the other night when I was playing. I got the medallion but it didn’t give me an extra ball? I may have missed it but it is one of my favorite modes and I look for it like a hawk.
Quoted from Initiative:The extra ball and medallion are 2 different 'targets' in the gunfight. the extra ball looks like an 'EB' icon and the medallion looks like... well... a medallion icon
No, I fully understand that. I have owned an IJ on and off since 2001. I just thought the other day it bizarre I didn’t see the EB icon to even shoot but I shot the medallion.
Quoted from PinRetail:Loctite is your friend. Don't be afraid to use RED here, but blue will work.
I picked some up. But man I had to readjust that POA 15 times! I was so frustrated last night I wanted to hit it with a sledge hammer. Because the left right adjustment along with the forward backwards position to get perfect is so hard. Not to mention even moving the machine slightly sometimes can cause the POA not to work properly. Never take for granted a perfectly working POA lol
Quoted from Ecw0930:This makes me super nervous for putting mine back together. I REALLY don't want to have to fiddle with something, or anything, to get it to work correctly. It's been down for too long. I just want to put it together (hopefully tomorrow) and have it work!
Here is the technique I switched to today after last nights adjustment fight. Today I adjusted the rear legs to see if that would help. And boom it’s working perfectly again. I just went a couple of turns at a time. Until it was working perfectly running down each side. Only took a few turns on the levelers. My machine is at a 6.8 pitch and the left right pitch is almost dead on too. Also the tab on the right side entrance can be adjusted in small increments. I needed to move it just a bit to have it drop and be able to roll over to the right to get that first switch if needed.
Good luck!
Quoted from PinDeadHead:I loosened the coil stop screw ensuring the single drop triggers the switch in the down position (so I could hear the switch click).
After a few test start ups with the drop in the down position, I determined this solved my issue.
Instead of the “zip zip zip” - coil firing 3x during start up followed by that switch/coil error, the drop goes up and down and no error.
That's Awesome news! That zip zip zip followed by the bang bang bang is so annoying lol Good Job!
I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for brass plating? I have my machine brass powder coated. I like it but I also like the brass plating look. I know people say the Lockbar will become ugly. Once upon a time I had an Addams gold and I don’t remember that being an issue? Anyhow any suggestions will be appreciated.
Quoted from pjflyer:Looks fine to me . Could just be trying to keep you thinking of why you also need CFTBL: Buy the topper first, then the game.
Haha yes! Been waiting a month for mine to arrive. STI is super slow. I was reminded why I drive all over to pick up machines.
I was able to get the eyes working again with all my free time.
IMG_0831 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rebel76:Good evening, first post here
Have an IJ I recently purchased. It had a few issues with it that are now all fixed and game is working perfect. My question is is it worth while to try and fix the old CPU board, which I have already replaced with new board? Issues was row 3 of matrix was completely dead. And if worth fixing any suggestion on which components may be the cause of row 3 failing. TIA
Welcome! If you replaced the board and would like to get the original serviced. Send it here:
https://www.coinopcauldron.com/brepairs.html
It will take a couple months but they are super good at what they do.
Quoted from altan:Many / Some will devalue a game like IJ if it doesn’t have official CPU board (and certainly if it has Rottendog). Opinions will differ.
I recommend repair.
Kevin (sorry Kyle) who worked for macro and now for Stern stated in one of his pin tech videos. New boards do not devalue a game. So that is on the anal buyer not the market.
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:I personally would like as much original stuff as possible, including the matching serial numbers on each board if possible. I would value a machine much higher based on this BUT wouldn’t stop me from buying them if they were a little Frankenstein. Just less attractive imo to crazy ocd anal buyers like myself. I have used 3rd party boards (Xpin, etc) in machines but I always keep the original boards/parts no matter the condition.
Yeah man, people will pay for what kind of pin they want. It is just a huge slippery slope to say OG boards makes a value of a pin go up. For example. An all original IJ that has been well maintained and doesn’t have wear or damage cool. There are those. Or people who brass out their IJ. People who put mods in it. People who powder coat them. People put titian rubbers in them. To me the playfield is the money maker. Because if the playfield is fantastic. All that other stuff was not meant to last forever. I want kornfreak’s planes! they are unbelievably awesome. So if I get those planes does it devalue my machine? No way! not imo! I would 100% say it increases the value. Anyway, taking about this stuff is healthy, arguing is not. I am not trying to argue or get in a pissing match with anyone. Just this dudes opinion.
Quoted from DumbAss:Neither am I.
I will leave the following for those reading this thread (and are interested) with things to think about.
There are some design flaws or omissions on the OEM boards. Sometimes, they are serious. While it is true that almost all games have survived despite these flaws, there are some that have taken damage over the years.
There are also outdated and inefficient designs used on the OEM boards. Linear regulator circuits are inefficient and dissipate a lot of heat. Switching regulator circuits are much more efficient and can drastically reduce the amount of heat dissipation.
That being said, the one big advantage to using an OEM board is the familiarity of the circuits and design. Not all 3rd party (replacement) boards are re-designed (such as using MOSFETs instead of BJTs).
Good point I forgot about that! Thanks again for the help with my STTNG! Very much appreciated. I don’t have the machine any longer but a buddy does and I can still visit it.
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Why the animosity towards the Rottendog boards? When my OEM IJ power board was failing repeatedly, even after professional repair, I finally swapped it out for a RD board.
That was 16 years ago. Other than having to replace a single transistor once, that board has never let me down.
When I made the swap in 2008 it didn't seem like there were many options out there for replacement, and the RD board absolutely saved me. Yet on Pinside it rarely seems like anyone has anything positive to say. What gives?
This is just people and their opinions. I have been using RD boards for probably close to 2 decades and I have ran into problems twice. They are very solid. Over that same period I have spent thousands of dollars on repairs because people have those stupid battery packs attached to the original mpu's and didn't change the batteries. I actually hate to buy a machine with an original MPU because it is just going to cost me money to have NVRAM installed and or there is a very good chance of acid damage to that board now. and caps fail, period. OEM boards will fail and leak and operators hacked the hell out of them. And it is a joke all these people saying they have HUO machines. LMAO man I have been doing this for 25 years and back in the day a HUO machine was a unicorn. Now they are for sale every day on here lol
Please help. Does anyone know where the prototype jackpot light board connectors go? 135 and 138? I have something already in 135 but should I move the other 2 up? And then put the jackpot connector in 135?
Quoted from OtherLebowski:I recently did the AnyPin NVRAM mod to my Indy and I was looking at all those caps on the pcbs. Do people generally do cap kits at this point on their pins as preventative maintenance? I almost always do that with the chassis on my monitors now when I get a cab that hasn't been recapped.
I send my boards to be professionally refurbished usually when I bring in a machine. Especially if they look suspect and have that old battery pack. Most of the time I replace them with new boards. The place I send them to usually takes 2-3 months. So it’s hard for me to have a machine down that long. I will stick in the new boards while they are being refurbished. Sometimes I will swap them back when they send back to me. It is up to you. I have them perform everything. They check over every aspect/component of the board and they are better than factory when finished. Been doing this a long time sold over 40 machines. Never once has someone asked if all the boards are all original. But obviously there are people out there that this is important to.
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:Curious where you send the original boards to in order to get them refreshed?
IMO Clive is the very best at this. https://www.coinopcauldron.com/brepairs.html
But I have used ChrisHibler also he does fine work.
I have used Shaun at the pinball wizard https://www.thepinballwizard.net/shop-by-game/
Also I have talked with Eugene Mosh about repairs as well.
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Oakdale, CA