I'm thrilled to be joining the club in about a week! Shipping my Indy from west to Midwest, but Indy can handle the adventure. Ordered new blades, target decals and a few mods. Color DMD soon. I sold my Stern Indy to step up to this game...is it as good as people say? Can't wait to find out!

Thanks! Pinsound is for sure on the list for this one. I hear it makes a huge difference. Looking forward to getting this one here!

Officially joined today! What a fantastic machine this is. I hope I can afford to keep it long term! I’m going to add color DMD, pinsound and black legs and powder coat. Cabinet looks perfect. Took me awhile to get one, but it’s finally here!

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Does anyone know where to find the airball protectors that go above the 3-Bank drops and single drop? I’m getting some wicked air.

I contacted the Pinsider who made them. He may make them again someday but not now. So I repurposed a similar piece of acrylic from LOTR (that piece you can replace with etched elf writing on it). I drilled an extra hole and it works great! Fits pretty well and no more airballs from the 3-Bank.

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I did just order the Cliffys for behind the 3-bank and the single drop target too, along with the scoop protector. He makes ramp protectors for the right ramp, but mine has them already. I can see wear starting on the edge of the wood behind the drops. Gotta get Cliffys on those.

If DJ makes the protectors again, I'll order them.

The problem I'm having now is, my ball is flying off the wireform when I hit the left ramp crisply. About 25% of the time, if I hit the left ramp solid, the ball jumps the wireform on the second bend after rounding the turn. It jumps off into the bi-plane. Any ideas? I tried adjusting the ramp, that didn't help. I lowered the pitch a little, but it's already pretty floaty. My flippers are crisp, and making the ramp shots is easy, but I wouldn't think the ball should fly the wireform so easily.

That looks great. Your playfield looks perfect!

I'm having another issue I just discovered, my Path of Adventure only tips to the right or left just barely off center. Almost 100% of the time, the ball simply rolls into the first pit. I can't get enough pitch left or right to affect the ball much.

Is this adjustable? Or a Path of Adventure motor or opto board issue?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

It doesn’t show any error or credit dot upon power up and POA test. It moves back and forth ok, but it really seems like the left and right tilt is very slight. I’ve only played a couple other Indys, but I’m pretty sure the path is supposed to tip a lot more.

Where is the grub screw located?

Thanks for the suggestions! I’m sure it’s a minor adjustment.

Does anyone have an extra/backup set of red path of adventure plastics they would consider selling? PM me and let me know your price.

Thanks!

Agree, and it’s pretty easy to see signs of poor work if Radcals aren’t installed properly. Where they meet at the front corners should be flush, but often isn’t. The holes cut for start button, etc. should be smooth and uniform, and bolts shouldn’t be so tight it crushes the Radcal or creates divots. I have installed decals and Radcals, and while I do like the glossy look and durability of Radcals, there is no substitute for correctly installed decals on a restored cabinet, imho. But I do have Radcals on my TOTAN, Fish Tales and CV. They look great, although I should have painted the cab or sanded it fully on my FT. You can see the original art through the Radcal, if you look closely. Live and learn! But I agree, cabinets should be stripped, sanded, and any dings or dents filled. Decals and even Radcals will show a poorly prepped cab.

Has anyone got a spare bracket that this Lite Jackpot plastic mounts to? Perhaps someone who restored an Indy or two and has extra parts? Please PM me if you do! Thanks.

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Awesome! I am joining the club soon and would love a set of your airball protectors! I’ll keep an eye on your ad, but if you start a list, please add me! Thanks!

I bought one for my Fish Tales and I feel it’s a pretty good approximation. If they make them for Indy, you could try that. I bought it to install a speaker box light kit. Classic Arcades was the seller. Not sure if that’s the one people don’t like or not. I feel the FT version is pretty good.

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My IJPA is arriving (hopefully) in 3 days, on 4/11. Fingers crossed. I have my mods and extras ready. I am anticipating this one more than any other pin I’ve had shipped. It’s not so much the time it takes, it’s the mileage.

It’s also a good idea to snip the top corners off under the lock bar (see pic), so the bar doesn’t put pressure on the Radcal.

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Cool!

He’s right. Painting the cab and head a solid color first is wise. And I finally bought this router bit. I wish I had it for my previous Radcal projects.

Want to share some pics of my new Indy. After a 3 year hiatus, rejoined the club for awhile with this beauty restored by Chris at High End Pins. It’s one of those early models with the chrome POA rails. My 4-year-old likes it because he can get multiball pretty easily. I traded my first Indy too quickly and never explored the modes or reached the wizard mode. Hope to this time!

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Right, different cabinet. It’s still in the rules, but you can turn it off. My TZ has the buy-in button. Early Indy did not.

Kinda makes a neat, inexpensive topper!

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Yep, he sure did. In a long YouTube series. The game he started with was pretty rough, so he basically had to build one from scratch. He did a first rate job.

No prob. It’s a bit simple, but I like it. I’m not typically a big topper guy. Here’s one with the entire backbox. I’ll take another with the entire game.

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I installed my set last week. They are fantastic!

Good luck! Have you installed Radcals before? They can look great when installed carefully. Super glossy and durable. I have them on a few pins.

I made this lexan platform for the ark, and added a cobra to the “pit.” Indy has the idol, but not for long.

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The one I bought was from an older Hasbro set, see below. There is also a more recent cake topper set that includes an ark, and that one includes the wood rods to carry it. See pics.

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Eternal Life! I finally reached the wizard mode. Perfect level of difficulty for me. Start all 12 modes, no easy task with that tricky mode start scoop. I nearly finished the wizard mode, only one or two switches on the upper pf left to hit. I just missed out on that huge jackpot. Great video modes, pretty balanced scoring. And like Fish Tales, another Mark Ritchie pin, this game really punishes missed shots. I love these 90’s pins with wizard modes that feel reachable with a good game, much like TZ’s Lost in the Zone. Both great games.

Good idea! Mine has a cushion at the back of the scoop, and the bottom of the scoop was lowered, which also helps. I’m pretty good at left-handed backhand shots into the scoop. My right flipper will ricochet out sometimes. I’ll try adding a thin cushion on the left side too. The POA ramp is the hardest shot for me. Not sure why, it’s become a mental block or something!

Just 1.2 billion, but it was the first time I cracked a billion. I almost finished the wizard mode, which would have put me over 2 billion, which seems like a pretty high score based on posted high scores.

I added a Polk audio powered subwoofer under my Indy, and it’s just awesome. That’s the final piece it needed. It added so much bass and depth. The game rumbles now!

Yep, like this. I just ran speaker wire up through the hole in the bottom/rear of the cabinet and used alligator clips to attach to the poles on the cabinet woofer. The other end connects to the Polk sub. Very easy.

Nice. And it still allows sound to the other speakers, right? I’m assuming it does, or you’d only have sound coming from your external sub, and that might lack all the mid and high range sound. I should have bought more Polk subs when they were $100.

I’m not a huge topper person, but these little guys make a nice, cheap, understated topper!

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Mine tilts slightly better to the left than the right. If I try to go right for the drop-in, it goes into the top pit about 50% of the time. If you go left, it’s safe, although occasionally it rolls past the POA and down the return lane. Is that all you need to adjust, a single set screw?

Radcals over a black cab is smart. Any solid color is better than simply covering the original art, which can show thru slightly. I did that on my Fish Tales. It’s very subtle, but you can see it if you really look. I’ve installed Radcals on 4-5 pins, and I’ve installed new decals on a few games. They both have pros and cons, but I give the edge to decals, if they are installed correctly. Radcals are glossy and durable, and look nice when installed well. But the fit and finish isn’t as perfect as decals are capable of, imho.

I have an odd question, but does anyone have a project Indy they use for parts? Or a damaged/salvaged one? I’m looking for a part and would love to find and buy one.

Ah, I didn’t realize OG parts were that hard to come by. I guess I figured they made so many of these, there were lots of them in various conditions. Mine was a scratch build, and is complete, but one piece was re-fabricated and I was considering finding an original. Not critical tho!

Like many things in pinball, it probably comes down to the buyer. I have sold restored pins to buyers for whom original, matching boards were very important. They aren’t important to me, personally, but it’s a nice bonus if they happen to match. I bought a beautifully restored TZ with new cab and pf, and several boards are new, not original. It didn’t matter to me, but that’s just me. My Indy is a scratch build, but does feature original boards. I think there are buyers for every kind of pin, original, restored, project, so it all depends on who the buyer is, and what speaks to them. There are pros and cons to 30+ year old boards, as components don’t last forever and need upgrading. And some new boards lack certain features or quality or can be more difficult to work on. Like new cabs, playfields, etc, there are pros and cons for most things. If you have a fully working Indy that plays well and you can enjoy in the 30th anniversary year, you are really lucky!

That was a really nice Dr. Who, even before I installed new cab decals and had it powder coated. Did I send you the “after” pics? I sold it, but I really liked that pin.

Congrats on your Indy! Sounds like a lot of work invested. It seems like really nice examples, either clean OGs or restored examples, are pushing high teens or even higher. I saw the one listed a few weeks ago by the guy who restored my TZ (his work is first-rate) and it was listed for $24,999. That was retail, and it may have sold for less. I paid a lot for my restored example too. These are great pins and the theme and gameplay make it super valuable.

Do you guys find the upper playfield is incredibly sensitive to left/right cabinet pitch? Mine seems level at rest, and tilts correctly, but I have difficulty going left right away to hit the upper left switch without going directly into the upper hole. I’m guessing raising the legs a bit on the right will change that.

Thanks for the suggestions for the upper pf. I’ll try a slight adjustment to the legs first. Then prob slightly bend the metal tab on the rail where the ball enters the poa. Should correct that.

Wow. $100k. Would those custom wood rails be that difficult to reproduce? Or is it the privilege of owning a pin from a gift shop. Either way, I’ll take a minty restored example for merely $25k.

My wife did an internship at Disneyland in Cali in 2005 before she changed her career from civil engineering to pharmacy. She was only there 3 months, but she learned some cool secrets about the park, the employee tunnels and rules designed to make it as immersive as possible. She helped design queues to improve efficiency. One of the few engineering jobs she liked (it wasn’t for her). She had access to some special areas, and got to work on POTC ride and have her picture taken with the maidens being chased by pirates. She said it was spooky being that close to some of the animatronics. 18 years ago…

Lost my dad in 2019. He loved fishing, so he’s in the boat on my Fish Tales. Nobody ever notices until I mention it.

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Pros and cons with both, but you are generally correct, RadCals are not far quicker or easier to apply correctly than decals, for me anyway. They simply won’t fold, bend, wrinkle, tear or bubble like decals potentially can. But they take me almost as long to apply as decals. RadCals don’t require as carefully prepared a cabinet as decals, but you still want a smooth surface for good adhesive contact. Painting the cab is a good idea to prevent original artwork showing through. I like them both for different reasons, but nothing beats perfectly installed decals with a sanded/rounded edge. They look sharp.

What’s wrong? It’s the Dias Jonés Edition.

Bringing home an Indy is no ordinary pinball day. Congrats and welcome to the club! You call this archeology?!

If only Disney could afford to restore, or just shop that poor custom Indy! I’ve always loved that custom cabinet job. But come on, at least service it and shop it every few weeks!

That looks fantastic. A very cool alternative to the original idol/totem.

If the flasher is 13v, as many are, Comet does sell 13v wedge and bayonet bulbs. I added 13v lamps to my CCr connected to the coin door return lamps, which are 12 or 13v on CGC coin doors. If you want a mod to be lit when a 13v flasher is on, you can do it. You just have to add your own 13v LED light.

Yeah, for sure. I found that out myself when I plugged a 6.3v bulb into a 13v outlet on a new pin once. It melted within a few mins, but I smelled it and was able to remove the deformed bulb without more damage. The bulb was toast tho.

That looks fantastic. I want some gold grills like that. Ever since Larry “Grandmama” Johnson (aka, LJ) had a gold front tooth, I thought I needed one. Lol. I’m showing my age. Youngsters are like, Larry who???

I have a new Indy playfield that was not used by Chris Hutchins at HEP on the Indy I bought. It came with the game, and I just have it propped up against the wall with lights behind it. I just got the story on why he didn’t use it, and it’s prob not better than a new Mirco. It’s an original Williams pf that was resurfaced and clear coated. But the company that resurfaced it also painted on a wood grain, it’s subtle but kinda strange. It’s why Chris sourced another original pf and had it redone.

A kind Canadian friend is a good resource for rare Pinball Center items!

I have this staff of Ra headpiece toy on my Indy and really like it. You push the button on the staff and it lights up, pulsing light for a few minutes and then shuts off. Kinda neat effect when guests are over. Great value for under $20.

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I agree the original looks crisp. The CPR mirrored looks pretty good with the lights off. The bulbs you choose behind it make a difference. It can look red/orange and kinda washed out when lit. I ordered a mirrored glass for Space Shuttle and TZ last year and both have actual mirror areas, not merely silver.

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Sometimes when I earn an extra ball, the extra ball sequence is shown on the dmd, but there is no sound. Other times, I think it’s Sallah, yells “extra ball!” and there is a knocker. Is this a known thing, or peculiar to my machine?

Yep, I think it’s the replay extra ball on mine too. No sound or knocker. Just says “replay” on the dmd. Maybe because “replay” doesn’t have to award an extra ball? You can set the replay to award a credit or other things.

Wow, it’s a bummer and crazy that the mode start saucer shot is so problematic. Mine started out with the antidote during restoration, but it wasn’t ideal and was removed in favor of the lower saucer option. Not a knock on the antidote, I know it’s a good option for many owners. Mine is fortunately pretty good with the lower saucer. I can backhand it with the left flipper, with probably about 80% success for direct shots. From the right, it’s a crapshoot, maybe 50/50 and a much harder shot. I start most modes from the left, plus maybe one per game on a lucky bounce or shot from the right. I can start most modes on a decent game. Indy is one of my longest-playing games, and Cftbl is prob the shortest.

Yep, I couldn’t find one either.

Very impressive.

I seem to get the 1,000 point “Narrow Escape” award when my ball drains from the right outlane. I would have guessed that award would happen when the post saves your ball and it passes thru the little metal gate into the inlane. Is it supposed to award “narrow escape” when you lose your ball?

Ah, thank you. So the ball is triggering the first switch above the gate, but missing the second, which the game interprets as an escape. I’ll either order the Cliffy or cut a piece of Lexan and correct that. Thanks! That little ball save post and gate is so perfect, thematically. Mine seems about a 50/50 save proposition, which is how I like it.

Is there a reason to collect the medallion from the Raven Bar other than just for points? Does it advance anything or is there something progressive? It would be cool if before you could start the wizard mode, you had to collect the headpiece, the staff, and then correctly set the height of the staff. “They’re digging in the wrong place!”

You could check with Chris Royalty at Pinball Plating.com. I know he has some options including brass. I’ve converted a few pins to chrome and he did a beautiful job. My TOTAN is brass, but it was already that way when I got it. I did add new brass legs from Chris and they look awesome. Here are a couple pics.

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Or a rumpus, fracas, melee or…skirmish!!!

I added these on Indy and similar on my Shadow. I like them, they look rich and add to the feel of the gun grip. With or without is fine too!

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Thanks! I had to part with a few pins to add her!

I think I found that sticker at Redbubble. And one for my pingulp.