Looks like it's been incorrectly manufactured. If that board were actually tested for all three lamps it should fail. There's a wire connected to the key pin.

From what I can see it looks like the Grail Jackpot and Stones Jackpot lamps should work. The Ark Jackpot lamp should not.

wires.jpg

connector.jpg

I would contact Marco or the manufacturer of the board. It should be covered under some form of manufacturing warranty due to the nature of this error.

I stand corrected.

It is actually visible in the provided image but the image is mostly out of focus (a macro lens would definitely help here) so you really have to scrutinize it to see it. Too much effort for failing old lenses due to presbyopia.

It also helps to have a physical board (or other reference images) in front of you.

I will try better in the future to scrutinize images. I think, however, that I will probably stop investing time in helping and just go focus on my own things. I only have 24 hours in a day and anywhere from 6-8 of them are spent in a comatose state.

Appreciate the correction.

wrong_way_go_back.jpg

I think you want to use the term "factory settings restored". If you use the word "reset" you will instantly get sent down the standard WPC reset road.

I am sure there are plenty of other people reading that can point you down the correct diagnostic path for this problem.

Finally got one after years of looking.

U6: Version L-6
Checksum: AA06
Date: October 13, 1993

Changes from revision L-5:

Latest sound version is L-3. (U2 checksum: 8F00)

Updated pricing modes to enable $1.00 play.

Fixed a problem in the "complete all modes" that could cause the
mini playfield shots to not be collectable.

The Gun Trigger would not allow buy-in if player tilted on the last
ball. (NOTE: The Gun Trigger does not normally cause buy-in;
it must be set that way by adjustment.)

Drop targets are no longer cycled when the coin door is open. This
prevents them from being marked bad because the interlock switch is
open.

Fixed the third pass of Choose Wisely, which moved very slowly.

I think that image is from a Stern manual. That information does not apply to a Williams WPC.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Country_DIP_Switch_.28or_jumper.29_Settings

Europe is probably the best fit for you but ultimately it's up to you to decide what you want (assuming your board has DIP switches that makes it easier to change settings).

The "top" table. The one with W13-W18.

W18 is to the left and W11 is to the right. Leave W11 and W12 OFF or OUT.

A lot of these widebody games were crammed full of features. So many features that there's an 8-Driver Auxiliary board that implements an additional 8x controlled solenoid (or flasher) drives on top of the available 28x that are standard (16x inductive diode protected, 4x resistive not diode protected and 8x general purpose selectively diode protected). This 8-Driver board can also implement another whole column of switches (actually 2 whole columns but only one was actually used). However, it doesn't implement more lamp columns.

There are techniques that the game designers (implementation engineers actually) can do to get some extra switches or lamps without the 8-Driver board. If there is a fliptronic board and not all 4 flippers are being used, those unused flipper drive transistors and playfield/cabinet opto switches can be re-purposed for other things. The drive transistors can drive additional solenoids and the opto switches can be used for other playfield purposes. You will find that this is true for this game (the E-N-T drop targets are re-purposed flipper switches and the POA diverter/post are re-purposed flipper solenoids).

The one thing that is NOT easy to do is get more available lamps. Not easy but not impossible.

One trick Williams did was to use the GI circuits. The GI circuits have limited software control. They can be dimmed but are dimmed as a group. In WPC-89, there are five strings that can be individually controlled. These are BRN/WHT-BRN, ORG/WHT-ORG, YEL/WHT-YEL, GRN/WHT-GRN and VIO/WHT-VIO. The VIO/WHT-VIO (hereafter known as VIO) is also dedicated to the cabinet (coin door). You will see that this string originates at J119. The coin door is ALWAYS the VIO string.

If you take a closer look at your playfield wiring, you will see the answer to your question.

ij_lites_hand_of_fate.jpg

It is GI being used as software controlled lighting (as a group). The game is out of software controlled lamps in the lamp matrix. The VIO string is being used as a feature. The side-effect is that when the feature is OFF (i.e. you are playing one of the modes) then the coin door lamps are OFF. I assume Williams did this because the "LITES HAND OF FATE" is usually on and only off when playing a mode. It was probably hoped that the player would not notice the coin door lamps going out because they would be too busy playing the game.

For those interested:

• The Terminator 2 "CPU" in the center of that playfield is also GI under mode control.
• The Twilight Zone "clock" in the translight is also GI under mode control.

Re-seat the ribbon cables. If it still persists, it seems likely to be a logic problem. Column 5. Every 8 columns.

This seems like a silly thing to ask but did you make sure the interlock switch (if present) for high voltage is closed at the coin door while running the tests? Most games should have an interlock switch but some have had them removed. That is why I wrote "if present".

The optos for the idol lock are only used to detect the position (1 of 6). The idol test verifies it is working correctly. These optos have nothing to do with balls in the idol lock (other than the position corresponds to expected balls in the idol lock). Presumably, the software uses the ball trough indicators and idol lock position to correlate expected state.

When it comes to opto pairs, it is almost always the LED transmitter that is problematic. These are driven hard for a long time. The LED transmitter is always on as long as the machine is on. That is a lot of on hours if they are original to the machine.

• The green board with the white plastic housing is the LED transmitter.
• The blue board with the black plastic housing is the receiver (phototransistor).

A few points to note:

1. It is better to replace the transmitter and receiver at the same time with a matching pair (i.e. transmitter of the same wavelength that the phototransistor has a peak response). This is not required. The common wavelengths are 880nm and 940nm.
2. If you replace the phototransistor then ensure you have the correct lead orientation. The transmitter is a standard LED that emits infraled light. The phototransistor could either have a long lead that is the collector or the emitter. Consult the datasheet of the phototransistor that you purchase. Purchasing a new board does NOT guarantee that it will work out of the box. There are manufacturers out there who sell (through merchants) boards with the phototransistor installed with incorrect polarity.
3. Be sure you put back the opto pair in the position that you removed it from. I have had to troubleshoot an idol where the person took it out for cleaning or replacing but placed (screwed) the opto pairs in the wrong position. This confused the idol test and therefore confused the game.

It could be that the load on your unregulated 12V (+12VU) is too much at times. Make sure you haven't loaded it down with modifications that draw power from +12VU. Common modifications are ColorDMD or LED strips. These can draw excessive current and load down the +12VU to the point where it can interfere with opto state detection.

It depends on the circumstances.

• The Idol motor is an inductive load. The Path of Adventure motor is an inductive load. The machine has two inductive loads. Inductive loads have a high current draw to start the inductive process (turn the motor). This depends purely on the game circumstance (what's going on the in the game at the time the load is placed on the system).
• The opto transmitters have a fixed load on the system. They draw about 40mA per transmitter. That's just the transmitter. This game has 20 (7 + 10 + 3) opto pairs. It also has slotted optos (such as the Path of Adventure board as well as the drop target board). Every opto has a draw on the system but the slotted optos draw a little less. For 20 transmitters at 40mA that's 800mA. That doesn't even count the detection circuitry that also operates on the same +12VU.

During multiball (Well of Souls = SIX ball multiball), there are plenty of opportunities for the Idol motor to start and stop. Add to that all the other loads in the +12VU circuit and then some "random" timing where the load is simultaneously high and you could cross the threshold from borderline to failure. Oh, and then add all the fixed draw of the modifications. LED strips and ColorDMD.

Remember that machines that don't have a high baseline load and no motors can have more modifications placed onto the +12VU without manifesting a failure. If heavily loaded but the simultaneous draw does not push it into the failure zone then you won't see a failure. Or it might manifest a failure that then corrects and the machine owner simply ignores it as a "glitch".

I think you get the picture. Just because someone doesn't report a problem doesn't mean the system is borderline at failure. If you want to have modifications in your system, I recommend putting them on their own power supply (circuit). Get a switching power supply or a cheap 12V power brick. Correct game play is more important than an LED strip.

That's ground in dirt. The area at the slings is somewhat common. I have seen a few IJ PF images on this forum with that kind of "damage". It's almost ball swirl like. Normally to get rid of this kind of dirt you need Magic Eraser and alcohol but that's abrasive and you can easily make it much worse. One of my IJ PFs has a significant amount of this and you could see where the ink was completely gone. No amount of Magic Eraser will fix that kind of damage.

00_ij.jpg01_ij.jpg

To fix this, I had to repaint the problematic area. Thankfully, it's a solid color so no dithering is required. Put on a base layer of clear to lock in the starting point.

02_ij.jpg03_ij.jpg

Spray away your problems.

04_ij.jpg

I bought the machine remotely and it was shipped. The machine was sold to me as a good to better quality machine. The cabinet was/is brand new and does look fantastic. The playfield had the defects shown. An amount (not negligible) of the hardware (fasteners) was rusted or incorrect. The under PF assemblies were not clean. In essence, it was oversold and I will admit I overpaid for it. My records show it was purchased March 2015. Back then, I was a n00b with almost no knowledge. I picked up a second machine in December 2016 and I only discovered all the issues with the first machine when I tore it down in February 2017 (along with the second machine). I fixed the PF in the first machine (that is visible above) and put it in the second machine that was rebuilt but, unfortunately, the first machine is still in pieces (7! years and counting).

Both PFs were original PFs. Not restored. Not cleared. They had both been played a LOT. There was no OEM clear ("Diamond Plate") left on the PF. You can see this because the whole center of the PF was dull whereas the areas where the ball did not visit (such as under the slingshots) was still reflective. In the above when you see the ink was flaked off then there's no clear left. Absolutely none. This is why the ink has flaked off. Keep playing it and the next step is bare wood. I did a limited restore of the PF, essentially repainting all the yellow areas and filling in all the black outlines of the inserts to fix any light bleed. Then I put on a thick coat of automotive clear (oil not water based). It's been to the NW Pinball and Arcade Show since rebuilding in 2017 for all years (except the canceled years of the pandemic). It will be there again this year.

Your third image (3082) shows the wiring. That is a wiring diagram. If you learn how to read these you will be much better in the long run. You won't need to rely on others for "simple" stuff like this. Do a search for "how to read a wiring diagram" and start doing some reading. Honestly, it will pay back in spades in the long run. It's your choice what you do. I have learned over the years that "you can lead a horse to water but you cannot make them drink". I had one person always re-butt this with something involving salt but I have never been able to convince (unfortunately) many people that learning how to fish is better than being given the fish.

You don't know me. You don't know what I learned for education or lack thereof. You don't know what I do for a job or have done for jobs in the past.

I bought my first machine about 10 years ago. It blew a fuse. I had no idea what to do. I was scared to open it up. I was scared to replace the fuse. I wasn't sure what I was doing. How did I overcome this? I started reading and learning how to fish instead of being given the fish. It is really empowering.

We (usually) all start from the same point when we buy our first machine. The machine count invariably increases but beyond that, everyone's path is different. Everyone should do what's best for them. Take advice given on this forum. Ignore advice given on this forum. The choice is yours.

A long time ago when I worked in a hospital (there you go, you got some more background I volunteered), I learned that you need to answer the question asked with the required information. If you did not do that then the test that you were requesting would not be performed.

I learned an even longer time ago from school (there you go, even more background information volunteered), that you had to answer the question that was being asked in the test. If they asked you to prove "Sin(2X) = 2 Sin(X) Cos(X)" then you had to prove that and not "Cos(2X) = 1 - Sin2(X)". You got no marks for proving the wrong thing.

Answer the question that was actually asked. Not the question you think was asked.

I'm the "boring old fart" you wished hadn't been invited.

Neither am I.

I will leave the following for those reading this thread (and are interested) with things to think about.

There are some design flaws or omissions on the OEM boards. Sometimes, they are serious. While it is true that almost all games have survived despite these flaws, there are some that have taken damage over the years.

There are also outdated and inefficient designs used on the OEM boards. Linear regulator circuits are inefficient and dissipate a lot of heat. Switching regulator circuits are much more efficient and can drastically reduce the amount of heat dissipation.

That being said, the one big advantage to using an OEM board is the familiarity of the circuits and design. Not all 3rd party (replacement) boards are re-designed (such as using MOSFETs instead of BJTs).

Yes. The software has no other choice. If you look at the switch matrix chart for this game, you will see that all regular 8x8 matrix switches are used. You will see that since the game only uses two flippers that the unused fliptronic board switches are also used for game functionality. Finally, the game also has the 8-Driver Auxiliary board that offers a 9th switch column that this game uses. Yes. It uses that many switches. There are no switches indicating ball presence in the idol. There are only switches indicating a ball is waiting at the bottom of the idol (SW44 = Right Popper) or a ball has entered the idol (SW43 = Top Idol Enter). Once the ball enters the idol there is no indication of its presence. The position of the idol is maintained by the software based on its inference of how many balls are locked, which is based on how many balls are left in the ball trough. There is no other way the software can know how many balls are locked.

After you lock two balls in the idol, enter diagnostics and go to switch edges. The answer will be there. It is most likely that the software is not seeing what would be a closed switch under normal operating circumstances. If you are uncertain how to interpret what you are seeing then post an image of the state of the switch matrix.