Been spending the last month putting in a lot of work fixing up my Indy table and now that I’m starting to play it again regularly I’m realizing I really need to address this airball situation. I just about have a heart attack every time it happens and the last thing I need is my hard work getting getting torn up by these guys.

Is anyone still making and selling airball protectors for the drop targets? If not, does anyone have the design files for making my own? I’d greatly appreciate the help in protecting my hard work and reducing the jump scares.

Oh nice. I was talking with someone on twitter last night that got one of yours a year ago but I wasn't sure if you were still producing them so I started prototyping a solution on the 3d printer this morning. I'd love to get one of yours when they are ready.

While we are on the topic of the super ball button, the start and super ball button lamps are the last 2 I haven't replaced with LEDs. I initially made an attempt on the start button not fully knowing how it comes apart and stopped myself for fear of breaking something. Any tips on getting at these bulbs?

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll have to give it another go. I just did a big PBL order yesterday so I guess I'll put those on the list for the next order.

I had not seen clear rubbers before, how do they play compared to the other colors? I've only tried black and white so far.

Making a mention of it here, I've hit some weird issue over the last couple days of my subway release continuously firing and then the machine eventually launching balls on a loop. I made a support thread here if you guys have any ideas:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-subway-release-continuously-firing-mini-pf-amp-idol-errors#post-7376265

I played some Deadpool tonight at the local pizza place and it was funny to see how it has a similar 3 drop target bank but they had the 30 years of table design knowledge to make sure to extend the playfield plastic out over it to prevent airballs.

I like the design, it fits in well with the cabinet, but yeah at that price I would expect it to be made out of something more robust than 3D printed parts. I'm just not a fan of seeing all those layer lines.

Looking for some advice on 2 issues I've seen with my path of adventure mini playfield after playing a couple games last night. I've seen some other support posts similar to these issues but never could find a clear solution.

Issue 1: Ball will go across the rope bridge, park itself against the post, the post will drop to release it into the mini playfield and about 50% of the time it will just roll on by the drop off and drain out to the left inlane.

Issue 2: When it does drop into the path of adventure and the first target is the first switch on the right, I'll tilt the mini playfield all to the right and when the ball drops down into the mini playfield it doesn't take the right path, it goes left and falls down the first pit.

Both these issues suggest to me that maybe the table is tilted to the left a little too much. I'll need to double check this but I recently just dialed in the table with a leveling app at the bottom of the playfield, 6.5 degree incline with left/right dead center.

Are there rope bridge or mini playfield adjustments I should be doing as well? The metal rope bridge doesn't seem to have a lot of wiggle room to be moved up or down. Another support thread suggested pressing down on it and bending it slightly which doesn't seem great to me.

As far as things brought up in other threads, my post isn't rubbing when it releases. The mini playfield motor set screw is on there tight and the playfield moves smoothly to both left and right extents.

Ok I'll have to give those a shot. I watched it tonight go through there a couple times and it seems to pass right by the opening and hit the bent corner of the left tab and then it's a 50/50 shot on which direction it will go. I also honestly wonder if my incline isn't steep enough cause even the travel of the ball down to the flippers feels a little slow to me at times.

Ok after some leveling adjustments I think I've got the ball to release consistently into the mini playfield. I also found my mini playfield was centering slightly to the left so I got that leveled out.

Something I'm running into now though is if I drop and go right I hug the wall, hit the first switch and rebound directly into the first pit. I don't know if that is intended, if I shouldn't go fully right, but it seems like if I tilt all the way right the mini playfield is designed to allow the ball to hug the wall all the way down to the drain. I can see the leveling of the playfield may have some affect on this but even if I hand place the ball at the first switch the ball doesn't have a lot of momentum and it still tends to bang right into the railing of the first pit.

One thing I'll say, pre and post leveling of the mini playfield I still feel like when I tilt it all the way right it doesn't go as far right as it does left. I wonder if it could be an indication of a placement issue of the right extents opto switch on the opto board. When I look back there it is mounted on the board slightly crooked facing downward which I would think would result a premature detection of the metal arm on the shaft when going right.

Another thing I want to throw out there, I don't know if this is normal, while leveling the machine I was taking readings and I was getting different values as I worked my way up from the flippers to the 3 bank ENT drop target. I go from 6.5 at the flippers, to 6.0 at seize the stones, and then almost 5.5 at the 3 bank ENT drop target. Is there a specific place on the playfield I should be going by on the readings? Is this an indication my playfield might be slightly warped?

I don’t know what others experience is with them but I recently got one of their speaker panels for Indy and I was kind of disappointed in the quality and haven’t put it on my machine. Image was not as sharp as the original, the city names across the top were blurry, and areas that were meant to have whiter highlights were tinted blue. I’ll probably end up trying to polish out the scratches on my original instead.

I also got a replacement playfield plastic from them and the quality was much nicer on it but I think it was NOS and not a reproduction. Though the holes on it didn’t line up and I had to bore them out to get it to fit.

Try hitting up Habeboo for info.

There is also a thread here that might have some more information on the installation.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-indiana-jones-pinball-topper-by-tilttopper

Would love to see it in action once you have it installed.

FYI, I talked with Cliff on Monday and he let me know he is a bit backed up right now, still processing orders from October, so it may be a bit of a wait if you go directly through him.

Hey Davi any update on when these might become available? Thanks again for making these, much appreciated.

Do these apply on top of the existing art then? Probably the worst cosmetic issue on my table is the cabinet art, overall slightly faded, but way worse on one side of the back box. I've avoided addressing it cause it seems like a nightmare to deal with, and being up against other machines I don't notice it that often. It would be nice to address at some point.

That looks so nice. Did you do any prep work before applying? I think some suggested sanding down the old decals and painting the cabinet black to prevent any bleed through.

That's a lot of work but the payoff looks great. Mine is so faded, maybe some day but not a project I can take on right now. Thanks for sharing.

I'd be down for these as well, I've been looking for a solution for airballs. I even think at some point I came across yours and tried designing my own, got as far as 3D printing out some prototypes but then never bothered to send them off to sendcutsend.

TLDR; Is there a way to safely remove the speaker grills from the speaker panel without damaging them?

Long story here, I've been sitting on a jackpot light mod for like 15 years and I want to get this dang thing installed. I decided I didn't want to mess with doing the cut outs on the original wood panel so I ordered a CNC'd reproduction with the jackpots cut out, first one came came snapped in half but eventually got a second one that was in good shape. Initially tried to transfer all the components over to the new wood, carefully pried the art panel off, got to the speaker grills and wasn't sure how to remove them without damaging them, they appear to be tacked in with some tiny finishing nails.

I stopped in my tracks there, assembled the original speaker panel back together and decided I'll just order all the parts and build a new panel from scratch. Got a color dmd, it's great. Got a reproduction art panel, disappointed in the quality so I'll most likely use the original after polishing out some scratches. Got reproduction speaker grills, twice got poorly painted grills, and I knew going into this but they don't use the original speaker grill pattern so I don't really care for the look of them.

So now I'm back to do I attempt to pry off the original speaker grills, or do I attempt to cut out the jackpots on the original wood panel? I'm also of the mindset that maybe the jackpot lights aren't worth the hassle. I've already talked myself out off installing the lighting board for the lost plastic. I could use some advice here.

I have an image of the stencil, I considered making the vector paths from it in Photoshop and have my wife cut it out on the Cricut. I'd still have to source the right grill material with the correct hole pattern at the right size, and then go through the process of color matching to the original. At that point I was like I'll just throw money at the issue but the options I've come across aren't as good as I would like. So now I'm back to can I remove the originals and transfer them to a new panel without mangling them. Maybe if I have more free time in the future I'll work on making my own reproduction grills.

I was specifically talking about the grills in front of the speakers. I have this panel reproduction, it's fine. The print quality is not as sharp and it has a lite blue tint across it, mostly noticeable on the highlights. It would serve fine as a replacement for a completely broken one, my original just has some lite scratches so for now I'm going to try to buff them out.

Maybe I'll have another go at taking them off. I could have sworn I saw some small nails that have them tacked in place but maybe they are just held with adhesive.

I might also get up the courage to do the cut outs on the original wood. How did you go about making those cuts? I have a couple different Dremel tools that might work but I'm not that experienced with them.

Those turned out really nice. I can see how that all can be tedious to work with. I kind of wondered if there would a local business I could hand them the grills and the stencil file and they could silk screen print it onto them. I'll probably PM you for the file if only for a back up incase I go this route.

Where did you source this at? I had this on my shopping list anyway if I'm going to move the DMD to a new panel. I thought maybe beer seal would work but that stuff doesn't seem thick enough or dense enough. I'm guessing a hardware store might have it in the weather stripping section?

I had a similar issue with my 3 bank drop target a couple months ago, the issues would present themselves as the T target not always registering and sometimes during coil tests the drop target bank would struggle to reset all 3 targets but could reset 2 at a time. I ended up taking it completely apart, cleaned all the parts, replaced the decals while I was at it. I replaced the coil, the compression springs, return springs, and the black rubber grommets in the opto board. I think ultimately my issue was from the grommets being old, at least one was dried out and crumbling which caused the opto switches on the board to be misaligned to the switch tabs on the targets. Cleaning it was a big plus as well since the previous owner had greased the targets. The new coil probably didn't hurt either but I probably could have gotten away with cleaning the old coil sleeve, I got the coil on clearance and it was already apart so I replaced it. I was able to get all these odds and ends through Pinball Life.

I'm fairly new to having a Color DMD in my machine so I don't know if this is a known quirk or bug in the ROM that hasn't been fixed. I was playing and during the recover the ark mode I started up the raven bar mode, got the extra ball and collected the medallion. When I came back out of that I was back at the recover the ark timer and all the LEDs of the DMD were colored red except for a silhouetted area where the gun was at during the raven bar mode which had the full correct color. After the recover the ark timer ran out full color returned to the entire DMD.

Just wanted to give a heads up that LEGO will be releasing some new Indiana Jones sets tomorrow. They should go live tonight sometime around midnight eastern, though it may be -1/+1 hour to that I can't remember if daylight savings adjustments affect their system's auto release.

https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/temple-of-the-golden-idol-77015
ezgif-3-4e6ec7cb90 (resized).png
https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/escape-from-the-lost-tomb-77013
ezgif-3-4e5908657d (resized).png
https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/fighter-plane-chase-77012
ezgif-3-e1235f0b19 (resized).png

Picked up one of these Staff of Ra Headpiece toys today thinking there might be some mod potential here, it's constructed a little differently than I expected but it still seems like something could be done with it.

The weighted base holds 2 AA batteries and what looks to be a small capacitor on the positive line, the staff part has a non latching button to put it to sleep along with a LED at the top and I'm guessing the circuit board that controls the pulsing. The LED light is shined up from the top of the staff to the underside of head piece to a translucent orange plastic that shines it throughout the headpiece's script and the gem stone.

Probably a couple different ways you could go about making a mod with this, wiring directly into the bases battery compartment or into the staff to control it, or removing the headpiece all together and design your own lighting component for it.

Going to sit on it for a while though until I can figure out if it would be something I put on the playfield or on top of the backbox.

https://hasbropulse.com/products/indiana-jones-adventure-series-staff-of-ra-headpiece

Pinside_forum_7343862_0 (resized).jpg
Pinside_forum_7343862_1 (resized).jpg

I just did my first flipper rebuild ever on Indiana Jones, where's my cookie?

But seriously it wasn't without its issues. I bought one of these kits from Pinball Life and one problem I ran into was tightening down the flipper bats. I'd get those suckers on there what I thought was tight, but then I had my right flipper move ever so slightly upward on every flip. I got back under there and tightened it just a tiny bit more but that was enough for the washer attached to the end of the bolt with the quarter pie shape cut out of it to pop right off the end of the bolt. Luckily I was able to salvage that piece from the old flipper linkage I took out.

Is that part just poorly designed and prone to breaking like that? Are there any tips on tightening it without over doing it? I really didn't think I went that tight with it. One of my other old flipper assemblies has a bolt going through there with an allen wrench socket on that end instead which seems less likely to break but would require a tool in both hands.

Williams Bally Flipper Rebuild Kit - 08.93 to 10.98 (resized).jpg

A roundup of new Indiana Jones products coming out ahead of the new film’s release.

https://disneyparks.disney.go.com/blog/2023/04/fortune-and-glory-and-exciting-new-indiana-jones-inspired-products-and-adventures/?CMP=SOC-DPFY23Q2wo0406230021H

29017790-B5C7-4F6D-B319-257341223B69 (resized).jpeg

E1C0E8AE-B91B-4145-9A32-55F27D797C86 (resized).jpeg

No, there are a variety of items detailed in the Disney blog link.

New items coming from Regal Robot.
https://regalrobot.com/news/indiana-jones-props-decor-replicas-first-look/

F0B6A371-1B61-4B75-9E72-5DF552472074 (resized).jpeg
9D59FC39-EB93-4A06-8DB9-F575AEE07AB2 (resized).jpeg
58863228-08DD-4F5C-9EFA-F6D6B70C293E (resized).jpeg
95861857-DF13-4978-8AA8-5C327F598E1A (resized).jpeg

Yeah gotta enjoy it while it lasts, was a similar vibe when Tron Legacy came out. I picked up that Lego set as well but haven’t put it together yet.

Statues and busts from Gentle Giant.
https://www.gentlegiantltd.com/indiana-jones
1346137B-D66E-435D-AEBD-E7821A434477 (resized).jpeg85CFCE47-0493-402B-B0C2-D37A33C813DB (resized).jpeg5426BA4E-9F37-4332-9722-53EED7DD281A (resized).jpeg2832FAA4-6498-488C-B524-658CBC03D42F (resized).jpeg42A032F1-A7F7-46D5-BD18-A5CB4CEB8C97 (resized).jpegC0E3F61E-5568-4FBA-88E3-0C8490EAD179 (resized).jpeg4C14C30D-C09A-4C73-93E0-2AAE504B0FAB (resized).jpeg156F5208-9384-4766-B575-C0683A4F998F (resized).jpeg

Yeah I'd keep an eye out, there are several idol products coming out soon of varying size, quality, and price. Though that one is probably the best one for the price.

What, you don't want the Staff of Ra Headpiece birth control pill pack.

Been meaning to ask this for a while, what is this part circled in red on the right speaker and what is it for? I’m guessing it’s a capacitor on the line used to condition the signal or cut down on line noise or something but I have no idea. The reason I bring it up is that the lead on the left is not soldered to the metal ring screwed into the speaker panel that the black wire is soldered to, it just rests against it. Is that the normal installation or should both ends be soldered to their respective connecting parts?

E99EE92B-BC13-4F07-9881-3975DB914959 (resized).jpeg

That is a really nice looking machine. Was there no Super Ball button on the early models?

I’ve been wondering about this for awhile, my lockdown bar on my Indy has 2 carriage bolts in it that hold the metal latches on the backside. I’ve never seen another Indy table with this. Is this a lockdown bar from another machine or did someone modify this one to reinforce the attachment of those parts?

59C71326-67A2-400A-A51A-24B14CC56F4D (resized).jpeg

My current topper. Did even know she was up there while I was banging away on the machine and she’s like whatever.

BE08F224-2690-4BAA-A2B2-E9EFAF3CADF4 (resized).jpeg

Congrats. I'm always jealous when I see cabinet art looking that good.

Don't feel bad, I've done this as well after doing an LED replacement and then it dawned on me what was going on.

I've yet to find another game with as many good video modes as Indy. I didn't play a large variety of tables in the mid 90's it was mostly this every day using my lunch money, so I always assumed any DMD era game had similar video modes in it but it's kind of a rarity. I can only think of a handful of other tables that maybe have one interactive video mode in it.

Is that ark from the build an artifact pieces that come with each of the new Hasbro figures?

Is that pretty straight forward to add to the machine?

Do you just wire it up in place of the one on the bottom of the cabinet?

Similar issues here as well. All my remaining issues on my Indy are with that darn POA. Ball half the time doesn't drop into it when the post releases. Full tilt left or right and the ball travels so fast it rebounds off the walls into the pit. When moving left the motor stutters, I think that's an opto issue. Lot of things going on up there and I'm too burned out to deal with it right now. I got some Cliffy stuff on order that will require it's removal so I'll look at it then.

I also have a number of mini playfield problems which I assume has to do with the opto board on the back. What I’m curious about is the bridge driver board you mentioned. What does that board do and what relies on it?

I occasionally get a start up error about it. The symptoms is it moves fine to the right but stutters to the left. Last time I asked around it sounded like it could be the opto board the metal arm rotates back and forth in, or it could be a flipper opto issue. I haven’t had time to diagnose it further. I feel like last time I got it working again was me fiddling with the placement of the opto board in the back, like it’s not lined up well. I had a similar opto issue on the 3 bank drop target and it was from the rubber grommets being dried out and cracked and the board had become misaligned with the targets.

My other mini playfield issues seem to be leveling related. Sometimes the ball doesn’t drop from the bridge into it. Also the ball travels too fast at full left or right tilt and rebounds into the pit.

I think there is some confusion here in the previous posts if we’re talking about a backbox with a translite, or a custom backboard for the playfield with the lost plastic and a lighting kit.

Either way I like seeing pictures of what’s for sale for my own entertainment.

Yeah, while you are going through the hassle of removing the board to solder it back on go around and check the other lamp sockets of that type and see if any others need to be reflowed, they should be sturdy. I had 3 on mine that needed a little TLC. Also check the pins for the wiring connectors. The 2 in the center on the board of mine both had a pin on the very end where the solder joint was cracked and several lamps would go out and wiggling the connector would fix them a while before they'd go out again. Just a quick visual inspection of the solder joints at the base of the pins, it should be apparent if there is a break.

Posts like this make rethink getting rid of mine some day.

The gun is the 2 sides, trigger, and 4 carriage bolts. You may want to paint the 3 sets of fasteners yourself that hold the sides together while you have it apart.

Yeah stories like this convince me to keep it. I paid $2.5k for it, it's got some cabinet fade on the left and little ghosting on the inserts but other than that it's in really good shape. I don't want to think what it would cost to find one again and one in good condition.

Same, I recently put Ninja Chromes in all my machines. I got them from Ball Baron but they have currently paused the sale of them for quality control issues. https://ballbaron.com/product/ninja-super-shiny-chrome-pinball-g10/

I've been considering rad cals in the future. Is it the glossiness of them that is steering you away from them?

Sorry I'm not knowledgeable on diagnosing this issue but just want to confirm the basics that you have the coin door closed or the interlock buttons held in when testing these. Just want to double check, I often miss this and catch myself forgetting that they need to be pressed in for certain circuits to function.

Made the journey out here to report the Disneyland Indy is still kicking. It’s seen better days. Got a broken plane wing and must have a switch matrix issue because both flipper buttons are triggering a switch on one of the ramps, plays a plane sound and awards some points. Has leds installed and what looks like a reproduction translite with slightly muted colors.

IMG_4243 (resized).jpegIMG_4241 (resized).jpegIMG_4242 (resized).jpeg

I just got to take a second here and process the fact that both of you casually have a Krull machine hanging out in the back. What are the odds of that.

Yeah I was going to ask all the people in here posting their scratch builds what are some of the hardest parts to source?

Does anyone know if there are any instances where the game keeps a ball locked in the idol other than locking them for multiball? I too have noticed times where I know there are suppose to be multiple balls in play but when I shoot for the idol lock, the ball stays in there and doesn't release unless I drain the other balls currently in play. I thought it seemed wrong but maybe it was intentional, I don't fully know the rules or proper operation. I feel like when it happens I'm either being asked to hit the back drop target or go up the right ramp. Possibly I have some of these issues as well that I need to look at.

I'd like someone that knows the rules and proper operation of this game better than I to chime in on when the idol should or should not hold onto the balls. It's making it unclear to me if mine is operating correctly as well.

Light up Staff of Ra Headpiece marked down to $16.74 at Amazon and Target until Monday.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7XWTVTB/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_B5K1BXPKC3APE8BWDV3J

https://www.target.com/p/indiana-jones-adventure-series-staff-of-ra-headpiece-electronic-talisman/-/A-86524703

IMG_4714 (resized).jpeg

I got that recent Diamond Select Toys idol bank sitting on my Indy pin right now. Think I'll put a hat and a whip up there too. My Indy pachinko is sadly collecting dust in the basement storage room. Now that I got a fellow Indy pachinko owner here let me ask you 2 things. Is your machine super loud? I need to look into adding a volume control. Also how do you have yours setup? I came across some wall mount and cabinet solutions but could never settle on what to do. Would be nice to have something that can also auto feed the balls back into the machine.

Since we are talking opto's, a neat trick you might already know but others may not, on most modern cell phones the front facing camera records the light emitted by the opto's transmitter, so that can be handy to tell if the transmitter side of things is working.

Would like to know as well. Out of all the options out there I like the art on these as they best match the lost plastic at the back. Across all these makers of art blades it's hard to tell what the quality of the products are actually like form the item descriptions. Is it going have a heavy duty protective layer like Stern's, be a thin vinyl sticker, or somewhere inbetween.

Does LED vs LCD make a difference. I went with LED at the time cause it sounded like LCD would overlap this area but I don't know if that is a concern or not.

I have this Pin Gizmos board I bought in the early 2000's that I still need to install. It came with a set of roughly 3/4 inch risers that I'm now wondering if they will cause it to collide with the color dmd.

IMG_4740 (resized).jpeg

If you have a LED OCD board with open spots you can connect it there as well.

Looks great. I've been at a standstill with this mod and I could use some advice and/or words of encouragement.

So basically a history of what I've gone through. I didn't want to cut the original panel so I bought a repro with the cuts already in it. Then it came time to transfer everything from one panel to the other. First I was worried about removing the art plastic so I got a repro of that but I didn't like the quality so I ended up prying off the original anyway. Mine has some scratches on it though that I hope I can buff out with some Novus.

Then it came time to deal with transferring the speaker grills. Got scared there and ordered some repros but those visually don't match and the paint job on them was bad So I'm back to questioning do I try to transfer the speaker grills to the new panel or cut the jackpot holes out on the old one. I would think transferring the speaker grills would be easier but I can't figure out how they are attached and are to be reattached. There seems to be some tiny nails holding them on and I don't know how to take them off without bending them.

Also, I already have a color dmd but I'd like to upgrade the speakers on the panel, so if you got recommendations for speakers that would be helpful as well.

I'm too lazy to go get pics from mine so I'll use yours. This is where I was stopped in my tracks and got scared. I wanted to move this grill to the other panel without damaging it. I'm not sure if it is glued in there but it does appear to be tacked in with at least these 4 nails. I want to pop it out and install it on the new panel without damaging it. If I could lift the nail heads just a bit and grip them with pliers, maybe a putty knife under the grills and a slight twist. I know people have done this before but I couldn't find how they've done it cleanly.

indy_speaker_grill_nails (resized).png

How did you do it though, hands, tools, etc...?

But I’ll know and it will become The Tell-Tale Heart for me

I have not. Is it magnetized? Coil sleeve may need cleaning or replaced?

Only time I've seen this happen is when I've raised the playfield with a plastic bag wadded up in the end of the trough so the balls don't fall out and I put it back down and there are 2 balls resting on the plunger.

Interesting, my apron has no washers and a missing screw all the way to the left. I need to address that sometime.

These are the ones I've had my eye on. Like a few others I'm worried about the install. I've installed 2 now on Stern Spike 2 machines by removing the playfield which is really easy since it's like 3 cables. I'm not sure what I will do on Indy. I really don't want to disconnect all that wiring. I'm wondering if I could get a second person to manage the playfield position as I install them. I might also look into that Rapid Tac stuff. There was a post on here a while back where someone installed art blades on top of mirror blades first and then installed the mirror blades. I have a pair of mirror blades sitting here meant for Toy Story but I really don't think there is room on that machine for them so I might try that as well.

Sorry I need to make a celebratory post here. After sitting on it for some 18 years I finally got up the courage to install Pin Gizmos jackpot light mod. Went with Comet 2SMD warm white frosted bulbs, clears seemed to blow out the images. While I was in there I also upgraded to Flipper Fidelity speakers. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that helped me out in answering my questions and giving me the motivation to finally get this done.

indy_jackpot_light_01 (resized).jpgindy_jackpot_light_02 (resized).jpg

Yup, have the game on so power is applied to the memory while you do the swap.

Got my mirrored backglass in today but I guess I need to order some different trim and lift channel for it as the stock ones are too tight. I know at one point people were using System 11 trim. Could someone point me to the recommended product listings on Pinball Life?

Going to go with some System 11 trim and grip tape and see how it goes.

From what I've seen of it out of the packaging it looks really nice. Maybe slightly darker than my original translite but I haven't seen it lit yet. I will say I'm much more impressed with the print quality and colors compared to the reproduction speaker panel I got from a different vendor.

The only time I’ve ever seen the ball hit that metal was from air balls off the drop targets. With a protector in place now I’ve never hit it since.

So I finally got the mirrored back glass installed. The System 11 trim worked well on the top and sides, but the bottom lift channel was way too tight. I had to slowly tap it on with a block of wood and a hammer.

So I knew this thing was dark when I got it out of the package and I was hoping when it was lit it would look better. The print quality is pretty good but the overall image is way too dark and saturated even with lights behind it. The aspect ratio of the image also appears to be a bit off as everything from peoples faces to the grail and sankara stone look slightly taller/thinner than they should be. I also thought the mirror affect would be more apparent but it's pretty subtle. When I try to catch the reflections in the mirrored parts it looks pretty cloudy. I'll have to see how to looks in the evening with the lights off in the room.

I'm thinking I'd rather have the original translite back on the game even with the minor bit of damage to the back side of it, it's honestly kind of upsetting with how much this thing costs to arrive at that decision.

My final verdict is, as someone that favors overall image quality more even in light of some minor defects I don't think this good upgrade to the machine for how much it costs. If I was dealing with a machine with a translite or back glass that was too far gone and I couldn't find a cheaper more accurate reproduction then I'd consider it as an option. I just walk past the machine now and the whole thing looks wrong to me and I guess I chalk it up to a lesson learned, a costly one.

Here are some images. It honestly looks better in person than what I'm able to capture here. The details are more visible in person.

Mirrored back glass lit, taken backed away:
IMG_4811 (resized).jpeg

Mirrored back glass lit, taken closer:
IMG_4809 (resized).jpeg

Original translite unlit:
IMG_4810 (resized).jpeg

In context with the rest of the living room lineup:
IMG_4813 (resized).jpeg

I’m still trying to get use to it. Walking by powered off it actually looks really good and the mirrored parts are more apparent and easier to read. When lit though the strong saturation and darkness remains. I don’t know if an adjustment layer added to the source file could be used to counter this or if this is just the unfortunate natural of multiple layers of ink on glass versus a manufactured translite. I guess I’ll see if it grows on me.

IMG_4814 (resized).jpeg

I couldn't really tell you. It seems much more clear in the reflection when the game is off but it still seems a little cloudy.

I just turned the game on. It's seems to be mirroring. The the rest of the room is so dark the mirrored sections read as black unless I put my hand up and wave it around so I can see the reflection. It's just wild to me how dark it looks. With the machine off in normal daylight it looks great, it would be a piece that would be worth framing and hanging on the wall. When the game is on and being lit from behind it honestly looks way worse. It's so weird how the lighting from behind makes the art look darker and so orange. Earlier with the game off I was like I can live with this. Now with it on I'm like I want to put the translite back in, box up the mirrored back glass and stick it in the storage room and try to forget how much I spent on it.
IMG_4818 (resized).jpegIMG_4815 (resized).jpegIMG_4817 (resized).jpeg

Same here, whatever is in the Comet kit.

There is a standard adjustment in the settings to turn off the power save dimming that occurs when game goes idle after a period of time.

IMG_0356 (resized).jpeg

To clarify who is making this, it’s developed by MachineGames who made the last 2 Wolfenstein games. Bethesda Softworks is the publisher, Bethesda Game Studios did not work on this outside of Todd Howard being an executive producer.

Yeah it's pretty good. When I first heard it I was like is that Troy Baker, turns out it is. That's my only worry now is I'll constantly be hearing that 20% of Troy Baker to the voice and hear some of his other roles coming through.

Miniature Bayonet Base 2-Lead Socket With Short Mounting Bracket
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-11905

IMG_4860 (resized).jpeg

Wow I did not know about that one. Good thing I happened to order 2 sockets back when I did the roll over area. Will have to hunt this one down.

With wedge bulbs I sometimes have to pull them out and then bend the two leads 45 degrees away from the bulb body and reinstall. If the socket is loose reflow the solder on the legs. Might also check the clips inside the socket to make sure that they are getting a good grip on the bulb, might require removing the whole board to do so and at that point might as well give them all a once over. Half those wedge sockets on mine needed the solder reflowed and one had some bits of broken glass in it from an old bulb I had to clean out.

For reference:

3x of the following:

6. 02-4547 Fastner, Button Head 1/2"
7. 4702-00014-00B Lockwasher #1/4, Internal Tooth (Black)
8. 4700-00129-00B Flatwasher, 13/64 x 15/32 x 22gauge
9. 4702-00013-00B Lockwasher #10, Internal Tooth (Black)
10. 4010-01097-06B Machine Screw, #10-32 x 3/8 TR-BH Button Head

ij_gun_assembly (resized).png
ij_screws (resized).jpg

Another option is https://www.mcmaster.com/ but you’ll have to purchase them by the box and end up spending more and have lots of left overs. I’d use it as a last resort if there is a specific piece you can’t find at the local hardware store.

So much of what is widespread here is geared towards homeowners and less industrial. I guess here something like this would be a mix Farm and Fleet, Rural King, and Harbor Freight. I'm sure there are even more specific stores like this for farmers and mechanics.

For nuts and bolts though I'd just go to my local mom and pop hardware store or Menards and go into the hardware section where there are drawers of full of just about everything. You can buy full boxes or they will sell them piecemeal. It's just a question of if you'll be able to find it or if they'll give you a puzzled look when you tell them what you are looking for. The more specific stuff or tiny sized items they tend to not stock since they are not an everyday item found in the home.