Quoted from Darscot:

My first 3D model and print for pinball. Speaker lights for metal back box Stern. Came out perfect.
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Quoted from Darscot:

Yeah I just created a thingiverse account last night and you can't post as a new user for 24 hours. I'll email it to you.

Quoted from DugFreez:

I doubt "atomic piles for all" would go over as well with you.

Quoted from Darscot:

Your coming in here with your attitude but your completely missing the point. I didn’t want to take away from anyone that actually had a unique idea or created something. I made this MAME cabinet sometime in the 2000s. I don’t remember the exact date but I know I themed it like that because American Chopper was big at the time and I liked the idea of how they always themed their builds. I take no credit for this idea it was common knowledge and part of the culture at the time. Notice those speakers, I did not put LEDs in them they were readily available everywhere. If you think I’m concerned that you borrowed something that was common knowledge and managed to pawn it off as your own I’m just all out of fucks to give.
I modelled that ring because it was the easiest least complex thing I could think of. The last thing I thought would happen is some one would get on their high horse that this was their big idea.
To those in the thread I do apologize for this drama. It was not at all what I expected and I won’t comment on this further.
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Quoted from Darscot:

It does this, no black bars for me. It looks better without the trackball. It’s painted with automotive paint in the actual early 60’s VW colours.
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Quoted from Shredso:

We get it. You put some lights on speakers on a pinball machine. Possibly the first to do so, although doubtful. There are a lot of modders that don't share every detail, especially 10 years ago. The first to market with the product? Awesome, good job. I've heard nothing but good things. First to add lights to speakers? No. First to add lights to car speakers? Nope. First to add lights to a pinball machine? Nope. Manufactured some special lights that work better? Nope, cheap Chinese LEDs. Found a cool way to control them? Not that either. Cool in game integration? Still no. Listen, it's a cool idea otherwise we wouldn't be talking about it. The people that would print this bracket are in many cases people that wouldn't have paid full price for one of your kits, so you probably aren't losing much if anything.
Did you bug Chicago Gaming when they included lit speakers on some versions of their games? If not, why don't you head over there. I think we've heard enough here.

Quoted from toyotaboy:

I would want to be super careful (and a dedicated station in the garage, which would be difficult in the winter), but yea.. they are VERY tempting for sure. They have gotten cheap, and very good at printing detail. I'm sure at some point FDM won't cut it anymore if you want to keep up with other modders, and I'll have to jump in.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m not aware of ANY printer that can recover from a power outage without some sort of external monitor. Maybe Octoprint would help, I’ve not investigated that.

Quoted from mikepmcs:

Work with pla first. Not all pla is perfect so the brand and tolerance +/- is semi important. PETG will require some mods for optimum performance so i'd hold off until you navigate for a bit. No reason to mod an ender 3 pro out of the box for starting out. Learn the machine, but first build it right. level the table prior to every print etc.... methodical and patience about approach will yield great results.
there are many build videos. I suggest watching a couple while you wait for your machine. This one will get you started.
this guy is pretty good for some great tips. including a bed leveling g code. you'll want that. he's on youtube but couldn't find it straight away.
https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
ask questions.
oh yeah, glass bed will resolve the warpage issue to an acceptable level if there is one. hopefully yours comes with one like mine did. i've never used anything but the glass.
I agree with Joe on the levelling. One of the most important aspects of the print so I level the bed every print.
r/
Mike

Quoted from CanadianPinball:

Over 7 years of printing straight?

Quoted from PinMonk:

ABS is hands-down bad. I think PETG is in the ballpark of PLA in smell (not much smell), but in airborne micro particles, I think it's worse than PLA. The haze if I print PLA in the enclosed units is pretty much nonexistent, but a print of PETG of just 4-6 hours and it's all over the inside of the enclosure. That visual is what locked me in to deciding PETG was only for the two enclosed units with HEPA filtration, and getting a better HEPA room air filter even for the PLA units.

Quoted from cpr9999:

What type of printer do you recommend for this, Resin seems better than PLA but both I may have problems snapping parts together. Do I need to go to a more accurate printing service?

Quoted from cpr9999:

I thought about this, but clear plastic does not distribute the led light well. I would have to etch the plastic and it would look crappy with lights off - not attractive. So I could paint it with translucent paint (which I have done before) but I am trying to figure a way to go without painting.

Quoted from ChrisBardon:

I've actually been trying to figure out ABS printing for a while now. I've got a snapmaker 2.0 A350 with enclosure, and I was printing ABS at 240 nozzle, 80 bed. The problem wasn't the first layer adhesion, but adhesion between layers. The part I was printing would peel apart pretty easily. Trying to take nozzle temperature even higher resulted in a mess (spool says the temp range is up to 240). Is there a chance that this is just a bad roll of filament?

Quoted from Fezmid:

Yup, already downloaded that last week and started playing with it a little. My understanding is to simply slice in Cura, copy the resulting file to the SD card, plug that into the printer, select it, and cross my fingers?

Quoted from mbwalker:

A big Raft is your friend at times, LOL.
I had that happen just the other day, first time in a long time.

Quoted from Fezmid:

What's a Raft? That's a term I haven't run across in my research!

Quoted from marioparty34:

I am thinking about upgrading from my Lulzbot mini to perhaps the Ultimaker S5. One of the reasons I like my Lulzbot is the self leveling function. Does anyone have any other recommendations? What's good between $5k to $15k? Thx!

Quoted from marioparty34:

Good point. What printer do you have or recommend?

Quoted from marioparty34:

Is the difference between the Pro2 and Pro 2 Plus just print size?
I think I may have found my next machine! Thanks!

Quoted from marioparty34:

My Raised3D arrived today!
Shout out to Yelobird for the rec. Can't wait to start printing!
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Quoted from marioparty34:

Just finished my first print. I decided to print a spinner. I had assumed I would have to assemble. But no! It came out pre-assembled! And it spins perfectly! I am floored!
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Quoted from Nokoro:

I’m making some pinball parts for a home brew project. Ever since I got my Ender 3, I get random layers that don’t stick well. Not a lot. Here is an example. During this 9 hour print, I had two layers where the extruded started making that clicking noise and I got under extrusion. It then fixed itself for all the other layers. Has anyone ever seen this? If it was doing it all the time, I would suspect a clog or too low a temperature, but the fact that it just does it in a single random layer or two during a long print has me baffled.
Also, any ideas about how to firm up that crack? It is still pretty solid, but I would like to make sure the crack doesn’t lead to real separation. I’m using PLA. Fill with super glue? Heat?
Thanks!
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Quoted from Nokoro:

Cold pull = heating up the hot end, pushing some through to extrude a little, letting nozzle cool to 90, then yank it out. It is a way of removing gunk from the nozzle that may be causing clogs. It worked for me before, but I can’t do it anymore.
All the issues I am having seem to point to moisture issues, but I can’t be sure. I’m thinking about buying the Sunlu filament dryer and seeing if that helps. I hate to keep throwing money at things without knowing for sure what the problem is.

Quoted from Soulrider911:

Not pinball related but thought ya’ll could appreciate this. Fully functional baby Mac in progress
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Quoted from dudah:

I'd LOVE some Elvira SS boney beast bones for my HoH, who's savvy enough to whip some up?
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Quoted from Oldfart:

I'm having a problem printing and was hoping someone has ideas. In May I build a large scale printer (Tronxy x5as). This is a core xy printer. I am gettig shifting when I print. The
X and Y axis belts are tight and have tensioners. I've tried slicing with Cura 4.10 and 4.9.1. I have used these stls before and they printed fine. Print bed adhesion is also not a problem.
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Quoted from cpr9999:

Anyone know of someone that likes to paint 3D parts. Someone that enjoys painting details.
I have about 20-30 parts about the size of a thumb. Of course I would pay for the help.
Just don’t enjoy this part.
Any leads would be appreciated.

Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

If I ever figure out a way to remove the balls without removing the glass I’ll let you know. I usually place the balls on the game next to it or a countertop. I just ordered a roll of TPU to test a print as well which will keep it from sliding on surfaces.
I like your idea of placing it on the coin box as well.

Quoted from gdonovan:

Pulled the glass sheet, back to factory. Last attempt the nozzle was actually dragging on the print.
This thing prints PLA flawless. kicking my ass with ABS