Cold pull - got it.

There is a method to dry out filament in the oven, maybe you can give that a try just for the heck of it. If it works, then maybe buy the real filament dryer gizmo.

A filament dryer is only useful if your doing a lot of Nylon. That is super hydroscopic. PLA just cut the last foot off and you are good to go. Mistake most new to the hobby do is assume all filaments are the same. Buy a quality filament get reliable consistent results. Stick with name brands. The price add is offset by the amount of f'ing around you do to save a buck. Hatchbox is the cheapest brand that is often consistent.

I’ve been buying Sunlu and had good results over the winter but now get random layers that are under extruded. I keep cleaning the nozzle but it reoccurs. Very frustrating.

Not a bad idea. Though, I heard you can sometimes do more harm than good, and I’m not sure how consistent the temperature of our oven is.

Not pinball related but thought ya’ll could appreciate this. Fully functional baby Mac in progress

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I wish pinside had a ❤️feature for this.

Very cool well done. Any pics of it lit up?

Impressive. What's it like on the inside? Raspberry Pi based?

I am waiting on a ribbon cable should get here tomorrow here is the inside, yes mbwalker RP Zero!
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Wow, neat on the inside too! So is the RP Zero is driving a VGA display directly or do you need to add an additional board?

Sorry for the sidebar to 3D printing...

I just got an ender 3 v2. First 3d printer I've had since the thing-o-matic. My first few prints were great but then they kept failing every time. I finally sprayed my wife's old hair spray on the bed and it worked perfectly.

Blue painter's is also what many people use. I use a aftermarket build plate that sticks when hot, prints come right off cold. I'd have to look up the vendor if you're interested. Plus I have the BLTouch too.

I got the bl touch. Does it really help? I can't tell.

My build plate has a minor dip in the center, so rather than buying another one (that might also develop an issue) - the BLtouch just subtracts that automatically. But bed leveling overall is just something I no longer need to worry about.

Here's the build plate I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFY2LPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

No tape, hair spray, etc. needed. Have you tried a raft (i.e. I wouldn't blame a failed print on the build plate just yet)? I still tend to use a raft, maybe mostly out of habit. What build plate temperature are you running at?
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Merlin does allow to manually do a level adjust at 9 points across the build plate, but I don't know if the new Creality firmware has that option enabled or not.

I have 2 Prusa i3 mk3. They have a special metalsheet that is coated with PEI i think it's called. I previosly used a gluestick, but that stopped working. So i cleaned the sheet from all the glue and now i really find that it works best when i just clean it with alcohol. Nothing is coming of during the print. But the glue hardend and actually made it worse.

So for me it works best, when just cleaning with alcohol.

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I have an Ender 3 v2 and had lots of problems with the heated bed. Anything I would print would either fail, or stick like crazy to the composite material. Prints stuck so much I damaged the material trying to remove them.

I flipped the bed over and used the smooth uncoated glass side instead. Works perfectly now and prints remove easily.

We use this and clean the bed with acetone after every print. Rarely have adhesion problems, only when bed isn’t level.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_ZR9WTDFB7FMRE4ANPSTZ

With PLA there is never a need to use a glue stick with Prusa PEI coated flex steel flat sheet beds. I actually use acetone and a paper towel to clean after every few prints (and to remove finger prints), and they work perfectly every time. Main thing is making sure your Z-calibration is dialed in for the various sheets you may use (smooth, texture, etc.)

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For Prusa folks, as was mentioned, never a need to use glue stick - ever for that matter .

Your success will come from not touching the build plate surface with your fingers as the oils result is adhesion problems. Additionally cleaning with 90% isopropyl alcohol and I have never needed adhesive aids. This is also per the Prusa help docs.

To footnote my original comment, the only exception to this "rule" I've found helpful is when I have very small surface PETG prints on the smooth sheet (when so small that the manual flexing of the sheet will not pop the part off). The glue is not to promote adhesion, rather, to promote the release of the objects.

REQUEST: Can someone do an Uncle Lester 3D for an Addams Family Chair ?

Are Lester & Fester different characters?

Been a few years (decades) since I've watched TAF show.

Lester spent some time in the hokey

I'm I wrong for saying only clean bed with isopropyl alcohol or acetone, ONLY AFTER BED HAS COOLED.

I typically clean mine as part of the warm-up process or between prints while bed is still warm. Actually, the warm bed just promotes immediate evaporation, so there is no pooling or residue left when wiping. Never had any issues whatsoever at heatbed temps for PLA, PETG, or ABS. If there were any kind of open flames, that would be a different story.

BTW, I previously used 90%+ IPA but at times was prone to streaking/residue/non-adhering models. This may be a result of me using the alcohol while the bed is at warm temps. However, after switching to acetone (I buy it buy the can at the hardware store - not the overpriced small bottle nail polish remover) it's one wipe and a perfect model adhesion every single time even on parts will little bed contact (fact - I've not once had to use a raft for any model on my Prusa). Also, I never leave the can open for more time that it takes to dampen my paper towel so that there is no evaporation accumulation in the area - open can, wet small spot on towel, close can, clean heatbed.

I'm sure safety protocol is to wait until cooldown, but when I'm in production I don't want to take the time for that between every print. Seriously, I've done it for 2+ years without even a hint of an issue.

Here is the acetone I use.

BTW, just looked up this info: Acetone autoignition temp: 465 C / 869 F (i.e. the vast majority of prints won't have a heatbed temp of anywhere near even half of the ignition temp).

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It works and by god it’s amazing, runnin iOS 7.5!

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I cannot explain this whatsoever, but when I clean (Prusa smooth PEI bed) with 99% IPA, I have issues with the parts not adhering. I use Sprayway glass cleaner, and they stick fine.

I thought that maybe there were oils on the edges of the bed and the IPA was spreading them. I tried again with 99% yesterday, making sure to wipe from the center of the bed, outward, and on the second print, I had major issues with the parts not sticking. I guess I'm okay with using Sprayway since it is working, but I would certainly think that it would leave more residue than IPA.

Which is why I switched to acetone.

Try naphtha, acetone is pretty harsh

Been using it for over 2 years, and no issues whatsoever on Prusa sheets (both smooth and textured). I have a brand new can, so I might consider it in about a year when I run out again.

I stand corrected. Whatever works!

I apologize if I came across as being rude, but that wasn't my intent. Actually, I'm not "correcting" you as I'm sure Naptha would be a good solution (pun intended), I just started using Acetone since I happened to have some on hand at the time and have been using it successfully.

In looking up differences, Naptha is petroleum based and Acetone is a ketone (humans actually produce it). Acetone evaporates faster, and both are used for thinning particular finishes. Acetone is a "stronger" chemical, and Naptha has less odor.

Bottom line is that both are good solvents/cleaning agents and are not highly toxic, so I'm sure either would be an excellent choice.

The biggest issue with 3D printing, IMO, is just how finicky it can be, and methods that work for one person do not work for others.

I have used acetone sparingly per the Prusa recommendations:
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/first-layer-issues_1804

That page says to use it only once a month and only on the smooth PEI, never the textured. I'm really OK with using the Sprayway since it is consistently working for me. I may give acetone a short test run to see what it does, and naphtha, I hadn't really considered before.

I was having adhesion problems initially on my Ender 3 v2. I switched to the smooth glass side and started using this:

3D Printer Adhesive Glue Bed Weld

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079984GV5

Pretty amazing stuff - it only becomes slightly tacky with heat. Dust and debris doesn’t get all over your bed when cool. Parts pop right off after the bed cools. You only need to reapply every 5-10 prints. Water soluble.

I know it's not their recommendation, but acetone works perfectly and I use it regularly (I've logged over 5,000 hours of print time doing so). It does not damage the PEI and assures a perfect adhesion. One word of warning - only use it directly for PLA and not PETG on flat PEI coated sheets. PETG may stick too well and you could potentially damage your PEI sheet trying to remove PETG models (It's also important to come to a full cool before removing a PETG model). My process before printed PETG on the smooth plate is to actually clean the bed with acetone but then apply a very thin layer of glue for smaller prints or even a drop of oil spread out with a paper towel for larger prints (90% of what I print is PLA). Actually, the textured plate is better for PETG in general if your model's base is okay with the textured surface.

Whoa, this is super cool! Did you design this yourself? I'm tempted to build one myself

Awesome thread

Where's the mini wired mouse to go with it - ha!

Seriously, very cool model. What are your plans with it - just a show piece or are you going to put it to practical use?

Could you post some pics with a ruler so we get the size perspective?

No Lester and Fester are one and the same when it comes to talking about Addams Family Pinball Mods.

The MiniMac is on Instructables. The video is double-plus awesome.
https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Tiny-Mac-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-Zero/

Sweet! Thanks for sharing that

My experience as well. I damaged a new smooth PEI build plate with a PETG print. Now I swap to the texture plate for all of my PETG prints. It is another nice feature of the Prusa to have multiple sheets configured for quick change over. Also have to be careful with TPU. That stuff sticks even better; to the point in the past I have added a filament specific positive Z first layer adjustment.

It is also helpful that the plates are double-sided, so you get two surfaces in one. I have a couple of smooth and a couple of textured plates even though I only have one printer. I reserve a set for PLA and the other set for PETG and the occasional ABS.

BTW, have any of you Prusa owners tried the Satin sprint steel sheet? If so, what are your thoughts and how does it differ than the other two for materials and finish?

awesome job Soulrider911 - love it

Yes the minimac project is on instructables! It’s a great tutorial. And mine will most likely be more of a display… the screen is pretty tiny but growing up with one of these machines it sure brings back memories. I am probably going to take it apart, sand it paint it, and clear it
Cheers!!

Has anyone designed a holder for flipper coil fans, for games like LOTR for ex?

Regards

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715685

I'd LOVE some Elvira SS boney beast bones for my HoH, who's savvy enough to whip some up?

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I may have a complete set shoot me a PM. Removed like new to install the glow in the dark custom ones.

I shared a first pass version in an earlier post. I think I'm done. A little 3D printed, a little bit from Walmart (plants, fence wire), and a little bit from Michaels (Raptor). Just slips over the original flat plastic raptor.

Stern JP Pro:
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