(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

2 years ago


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    There are 1,687 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 34.
    11
    #601 10 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Finally, the IMDN 3D grill is coming together. Had to split it into 3 prints to make the supports a lot more practical. Very happy with it now. Wife's turn to add her artistic painting abilities to it (still a practice print). Not sure of the color scheme yet. Time to order more filament![quoted image]

    An update to my updated update

    Wifey's experimenting w/colors...

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #602 9 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    An update to my updated update
    Wifey's experimenting w/colors...
    [quoted image]

    When the screen/speaker panel is dropped do these hit the glass?

    #603 9 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    An update to my updated update
    Wifey's experimenting w/colors...
    [quoted image]

    That looks outstanding! Thinking through maintenance, the magnetic thing is a very good idea - you’ll need to drop the speaker panel and head occasionally.

    #604 9 months ago

    Folks, it is time to start printing toppers.. the market is out of control crazy!

    #605 9 months ago
    Quoted from DudeRegular:

    When the screen/speaker panel is dropped do these hit the glass?

    Yep, they would need to be removed. But as Rdoyle mentioned, they are held in place with magnetic tape (on the sides).

    pasted_image (resized).png
    1 week later
    #606 9 months ago

    just did some designs to mount cameras in a stern.
    the first can put on the backboard and mount a camera on it. You just clip it over the backboard.
    i wanted to have a camera view from the back to the front. What i was thinking to be a good idea, but in the end is not as satisfying as i thought.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826995

    The other thing i am in just in the progress is to do a Apron mount for cameras, but i still need to figure some things out. The design i think is ok, but some finetuning in measurement. You will screw it to just left and right of the flippers. the backside should just sit on the apron.
    in the middle you can then mout the camera to have a view to the backside, and hopefully the camera does not get smashed.
    If it works i will post it.

    Apron_Frog (resized).JPG
    #607 9 months ago

    I designed a Bally pop bumper base that utilizes a Gottlieb body for a pinsider that wanted to use Gottlieb bodies and caps on his pin. Printed in Engineering Resin.

    2FA0DFCF-26D3-42E2-88C8-B3FA0E3D34F7 (resized).jpeg6049B3EB-2139-41B4-9FD4-4ACBF842B95B (resized).jpegE8125D9A-23CD-41DB-B9BE-A30452417A4C (resized).jpeg
    #608 9 months ago
    Quoted from yfz450:

    I designed a Bally pop bumper base that utilizes a Gottlieb body for a pinsider that wanted to use Gottlieb bodies and caps on his pin. Printed in Engineering Resin. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    That is bloody brilliant! Has he tested it out yet?

    #609 9 months ago

    In the mail. He tested a prototype of an original Bally Base in a spy hunter, still going strong.

    #610 9 months ago

    I would be interested to hear how the resin part goes - I think it might fail as that bracket takes twisting and impacts through the coil..

    I did a similar one for the 80's bally games

    710x528_33410052_17651896_1607246963_1_0 (resized).png
    #611 9 months ago
    Quoted from swinks:

    I would be interested to hear how the resin part goes - I think it might fail as that bracket takes twisting and impacts through the coil..
    I did a similar one for the 80's bally games
    [quoted image]

    I’m using expensive high impact resin.

    We shall see how it works out.

    #612 9 months ago
    Quoted from cabal:

    just did some designs to mount cameras in a stern.
    the first can put on the backboard and mount a camera on it. You just clip it over the backboard.
    i wanted to have a camera view from the back to the front. What i was thinking to be a good idea, but in the end is not as satisfying as i thought.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826995
    The other thing i am in just in the progress is to do a Apron mount for cameras, but i still need to figure some things out. The design i think is ok, but some finetuning in measurement. You will screw it to just left and right of the flippers. the backside should just sit on the apron.
    in the middle you can then mout the camera to have a view to the backside, and hopefully the camera does not get smashed.
    If it works i will post it.[quoted image]

    That's actually cool, I was thinking of something similar, just wondering how to correct the distortion to get a flat field view in real time

    #613 9 months ago
    Quoted from Ashram56:

    That's actually cool, I was thinking of something similar, just wondering how to correct the distortion to get a flat field view in real time

    while printing and testing i realized that the apron part will not work. I did work together with a guy and it seems every stern is different.
    The lenght between apron and flippers, the distance between the 1st screws besides the flippers. I have to admit i thought this is on every pinball the same.
    i did it for TMNT and Munsters, these both work and are quite similar. But it does not work for Black Knight.
    Now i am altering the desing to fit in the place where the Apron cards are stuck. The Apron should be same or quite similar on most of the machines.
    But i am still not sure if it works in the end, or if the distance to the flippers is enough, or if the balls will fit still under the design and camera.

    i will update if i know more.

    #615 9 months ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    decided to share my "bathroom break" flipper hold part:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4827309

    That’s brilliant!

    #616 9 months ago

    I have often wondered why they don't program this into games. Like if you hold the button for 5 seconds it will stay in hold when you let go until you push it again. The time could be adjustable. Great solution though.

    #617 9 months ago
    Quoted from Darscot:

    I have often wondered why they don't program this into games. Like if you hold the button for 5 seconds it will stay in hold when you let go until you push it again. The time could be adjustable. Great solution though.

    I thought keeping the coil activated for long periods of time was bad, no?

    #618 9 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    I thought keeping the coil activated for long periods of time was bad, no?

    Would not be that hard to give it max as well so if you don't return after so many minutes it drops the ball but puts one in the shooter lane for your return. Obviously a home use only feature.

    #619 9 months ago
    Quoted from Darscot:

    I have often wondered why they don't program this into games. Like if you hold the button for 5 seconds it will stay in hold when you let go until you push it again. The time could be adjustable. Great solution though.

    Well TZ has it. But yeah, seems it would be easy to put in other games.

    #620 9 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    I thought keeping the coil activated for long periods of time was bad, no?

    Hold coil not really, as it's high resistance. TZ home ROM has a pause feature built in that you can trap a ball, press the extra ball button and walk away. It only holds the ball for 15 minutes like that. Should be good enough for most #2s I'd imagine.

    #621 9 months ago

    Many games have a coin door ball save setting.

    Get control of the ball. Open the coin door. That kills the high power. The ball drains. Go take care of business. Come back and close the coin door. The same ball pops in the shooter lane and you are back in action. Game on.

    #622 9 months ago

    Next up for JP...replace the plastics by the slings. Raptor on the right and then a Trex on the left. Still playing around, need to shrink the size abut an inch in each direction.

    pasted_image (resized).png

    #623 9 months ago

    Alright, I finally got the fans and such for the thingiverse flipper coil coolers. They do not fit LOTR. I would think these flippers are on most stern whitestars? If they were modified for the screw mount holes and height they would fit. Just a heads up.

    #624 9 months ago
    Quoted from northvibe:

    Alright, I finally got the fans and such for the thingiverse flipper coil coolers. They do not fit LOTR. I would think these flippers are on most stern whitestars? If they were modified for the screw mount holes and height they would fit. Just a heads up.

    what do you mean they don't fit? can you show a pic? You really only need to have one screw holding the mount in. Take one screw off the base of the flipper mount and attach the printed mount to it. I did have to cut off one of the outer screw holes on the mount, but that was no big deal.

    #625 9 months ago

    Thinking about the Crealty Ender 3v2 since it's only $254 at Amazon today (amazon.com link »). Was wondering if anyone has used the fireproof/temperature control enclosure for it?

    amazon.com link »

    I'm not planning on printing when I'm not home, but anything to help reduce fire risk is a good thing in my book.

    #626 9 months ago

    The only printing you need an enclosure for is when using ABS. PLA and PETG print perfectly without it (I've even done ABS printing without an enclosure on my Prusa, and as long as the room was warm with no air flow things went perfectly).

    #627 9 months ago
    Quoted from yfz450:

    I designed a Bally pop bumper base that utilizes a Gottlieb body for a pinsider that wanted to use Gottlieb bodies and caps on his pin. Printed in Engineering Resin. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Is the engineering resin more durable than PLA? Would need something pretty strong for a pop bumper.

    #628 9 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Thinking about the Crealty Ender 3v2 since it's only $254 at Amazon today (amazon.com link »). Was wondering if anyone has used the fireproof/temperature control enclosure for it?
    amazon.com link »
    I'm not planning on printing when I'm not home, but anything to help reduce fire risk is a good thing in my book.

    Make sure you get one with the new motherboard (maybe all V2 come with it?). It has the safety feature enabled in case the thermistor(s) fail. And it directly supports the BLTouch auto-leveling. You can get it directly from Creality for $259 + 10% discount, free shipping. US stock.

    https://creality3d.shop/collections/ender-series-3d-printer/products/creality3d-upgraded-ender-3-v2-3d-printer

    #629 9 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Thinking about the Crealty Ender 3v2 since it's only $254 at Amazon today (amazon.com link »). Was wondering if anyone has used the fireproof/temperature control enclosure for it?
    amazon.com link »
    I'm not planning on printing when I'm not home, but anything to help reduce fire risk is a good thing in my book.

    I have the enclosure. It is mostly to prevent the cats from messing with the printer. It is very good quality, better than I expected from the pictures, and keeps everything at a nice constant internal temperature.

    #630 9 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I have the enclosure. It is mostly to prevent the cats from messing with the printer. It is very good quality, better than I expected from the pictures, and keeps everything at a nice constant internal temperature.

    Where do you have the filament? Looking at the pictures on Amazon, it doesn't fit inside?

    Regardless, does look nice...

    #631 9 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Where do you have the filament? Looking at the pictures on Amazon, it doesn't fit inside?
    Regardless, does look nice...

    I have it on top as is the stock position for my Ender 3 Pro. If you modded it to have the filament off to the side, there probably wouldn’t be room. But there is plenty of space to have it on top.

    #632 9 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    what do you mean they don't fit? can you show a pic? You really only need to have one screw holding the mount in. Take one screw off the base of the flipper mount and attach the printed mount to it. I did have to cut off one of the outer screw holes on the mount, but that was no big deal.

    I can get you pics.

    The screw holes on the flipper mount bracket don’t line up to both (should be fine with one as you state). Then the height of the fan bracket is not high enough, so the fan touches/rests on the coil itself. I would think with the high power magnetism and such, may not be good to have the fan and screws touching the coil even with paper or electrical tape between.

    #633 9 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I have the enclosure. It is mostly to prevent the cats from messing with the printer. It is very good quality, better than I expected from the pictures, and keeps everything at a nice constant internal temperature.

    Yeah, I have three cats, so keeping them away is one of the reasons I want one. Fire prevention is another reason. Keeping the temperature even for printing is a distant third on my list. Glad to hear it works well!

    #634 9 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Yeah, I have three cats, so keeping them away is one of the reasons I want one. Fire prevention is another reason. Keeping the temperature even for printing is a distant third on my list. Glad to hear it works well!

    If you ever want to print ABS (and if you do... exhaust ventilation is a MUST !! And add a filter as well), the enclosure is required since you need to keep ambiant temperature high.

    #635 9 months ago
    Quoted from Ashram56:

    If you ever want to print ABS (and if you do... exhaust ventilation is a MUST !! And add a filter as well), the enclosure is required since you need to keep ambiant temperature high.

    I've been printing ABS for years (in an enclosure), but I've never bothered with any special ventilation. I think the fume concerns are overblown. I don't hang out in the room with the printer when it's running, so I'm not too worried about it.

    #636 9 months ago
    Quoted from Ashram56:

    If you ever want to print ABS (and if you do... exhaust ventilation is a MUST !! And add a filter as well), the enclosure is required since you need to keep ambiant temperature high.

    I think some people must be way more sensitive to ABS fumes than others. I print many different brands of ABS often in an unventilated room and can barely smell it.

    #637 9 months ago

    My understanding is that ABS and PETG puts out micro particles of plastic in the air. Too much exposure to this extrapolated over time ends up in health issues. That's why people tend to have full exhaust systems on top of enclosures.

    #638 9 months ago
    Quoted from PinballCharlie:

    I think some people must be way more sensitive to ABS fumes than others. I print many different brands of ABS often in an unventilated room and can barely smell it.

    Just because you can hardly smell it doesn’t really have any correlation to potential harmful health effects.. just saying.

    #639 9 months ago
    Quoted from PinballCharlie:

    I think some people must be way more sensitive to ABS fumes than others. I print many different brands of ABS often in an unventilated room and can barely smell it.

    probably because it is killing your cells - I joke

    but becareful

    #640 9 months ago
    Quoted from mattosborn:

    I've been printing ABS for years (in an enclosure), but I've never bothered with any special ventilation. I think the fume concerns are overblown. I don't hang out in the room with the printer when it's running, so I'm not too worried about it.

    Sincerely, I believe it's a mistake. There are dozens of scientific papers out there (as in real scientific papers, not website type analysis) that show that ABS 3d printing produces ten times as many nano particles than PLA (which is already bad in itself). Plus the Nano particles are smaller.

    When you print within an enclosure, all nano particles are floating in the enclosure. When you remove the enclosure, they scatter in the neighboring environment. Some stick to surfaces, but it's fair to say in any case that the amount of particles floating in the air will increase significantly the likelihood of inhaling those particles.

    And you really really don't want that. We lack data and time to determine whether this is rally harmful, but all studies on Nano particles effect point toward serious risks

    Unless you don't care about long term effect.

    Remember asbestos? Took several dozen years to realize it's disastrous side effects.

    #641 9 months ago

    If the problem is truly nano-particles, then it’s not a wise idea to be pumping that air around the room with “ventilation”, unless you have some very expensive filtration. Better off keeping the enclosure sealed so that the particles stay confined and settle. And yes, a fine film does collect statically on the inside of the plastic enclosure, which I clean out occasionally.

    #642 9 months ago

    Has anyone made an STL for this...

    http://www.pbresource.com/plastic/gtb-30880.jpg

    From GTB Nightmare on Elm Street - the door to the furnace that raises and lowers.

    If someone's game I can make measurements.

    #643 9 months ago
    Quoted from pb456:

    Has anyone made an STL for this...
    http://www.pbresource.com/plastic/gtb-30880.jpg
    From GTB Nightmare on Elm Street - the door to the furnace that raises and lowers.
    If someone's game I can make measurements.

    What’s the backside look like?

    #644 9 months ago
    Quoted from mattosborn:

    If the problem is truly nano-particles, then it’s not a wise idea to be pumping that air around the room with “ventilation”, unless you have some very expensive filtration. Better off keeping the enclosure sealed so that the particles stay confined and settle. And yes, a fine film does collect statically on the inside of the plastic enclosure, which I clean out occasionally.

    You are correct, by ventilation I mean exhaust tobthe outside, ideally with a filter (otherwise we basically pollute the outside)

    There are also filters designed to collect particles within the enclosure itself (essentially a closed loop air circulator)

    The fine film is indeed a neat idea, what do you use?

    #645 9 months ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Just because you can hardly smell it doesn’t really have any correlation to potential harmful health effects.. just saying.

    That's true - I am rarely in the room when printing and door is closed with no recirculating air system. In retrospect, I'm glad I finished that room without return air

    #646 9 months ago
    Quoted from Ashram56:

    You are correct, by ventilation I mean exhaust tobthe outside, ideally with a filter (otherwise we basically pollute the outside)
    There are also filters designed to collect particles within the enclosure itself (essentially a closed loop air circulator)
    The fine film is indeed a neat idea, what do you use?

    Yes, if I could easily vent to the outside I would certainly do that. I don't think polluting the outside is really an issue....
    Typical HEPA filters work down to the ~1 micron level, so they are not going to be effective with nanoparticles. So you need to go with electrostatic filtration to capture stuff that small. Downside to that is that you need to clean the filter more often.

    #647 9 months ago
    Quoted from mattosborn:

    I've been printing ABS for years (in an enclosure), but I've never bothered with any special ventilation. I think the fume concerns are overblown. I don't hang out in the room with the printer when it's running, so I'm not too worried about it.

    I've actually been trying to figure out ABS printing for a while now. I've got a snapmaker 2.0 A350 with enclosure, and I was printing ABS at 240 nozzle, 80 bed. The problem wasn't the first layer adhesion, but adhesion between layers. The part I was printing would peel apart pretty easily. Trying to take nozzle temperature even higher resulted in a mess (spool says the temp range is up to 240). Is there a chance that this is just a bad roll of filament?

    #648 9 months ago

    On my Prusa, I print ABS at 255C for the nozzle and 100-110C for the bed. Up to this point, I've only used 3D Solutech brand ABS which has performed well for me.

    If layer adhesion is an issue, it sounds to me like the plastic is not melting properly to fuse the layers together. You would need to either increase the temp incrementally (say 5 degree steps), or you could potentially have a low quality / bad roll of filament. Also, I assume the atmosphere around the printer is kept warm and there is no air current flowing around the printer.

    #649 9 months ago
    Quoted from ChrisBardon:

    I've actually been trying to figure out ABS printing for a while now. I've got a snapmaker 2.0 A350 with enclosure, and I was printing ABS at 240 nozzle, 80 bed. The problem wasn't the first layer adhesion, but adhesion between layers. The part I was printing would peel apart pretty easily. Trying to take nozzle temperature even higher resulted in a mess (spool says the temp range is up to 240). Is there a chance that this is just a bad roll of filament?

    I keep my bed a little higher at 90, but that's probably not the issue. I've tried a lot of cheap filaments, and there are definitely some turds out there. Even within the same mfg, some colors can behave differently. Maybe it's just inconsistency between batches? I don't know. Try buying a small spool of known good quality ABS filament in black and see if you can get your rig tuned to make consistent solid prints.

    #650 9 months ago
    Quoted from ChrisBardon:

    I've actually been trying to figure out ABS printing for a while now. I've got a snapmaker 2.0 A350 with enclosure, and I was printing ABS at 240 nozzle, 80 bed. The problem wasn't the first layer adhesion, but adhesion between layers. The part I was printing would peel apart pretty easily. Trying to take nozzle temperature even higher resulted in a mess (spool says the temp range is up to 240). Is there a chance that this is just a bad roll of filament?

    Perhaps the fan at the hot end is an issue? Never printed ABS, so just a wag.

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