Pulled the glass sheet, back to factory. Last attempt the nozzle was actually dragging on the print.

This thing prints PLA flawless. kicking my ass with ABS

Just apply a light amount of purple glue stick and you’ll be done with it. One application and you’ll do a dozen prints. Washes off in seconds with warm water. PEI is hit or miss with ABS and no coating. And you don’t need to go that hot. 235 should be enough so you don’t warp.

That’s awesome man! Thanks. I’ll reach out

Unfortunately on only have half of it.

No it’s that pressed fibre. Bake light or whatever it’s called.

I have it throttled back to 240 at the moment.

Will try the glass with PEI again with glue stick and see what happens, printing flawlessly on the factory mag sheet at the moment.

At 37%

Currently at 235 and 95 and that's where I'm going to leave it for the rest of the night. Still using the insulated box, seems to help.

20211113_191539 (resized).jpg

I would say, the last thing to try if this last experiment fails, mix up some abs slurry use that on the glass bed.

I know some people aren't a fan of rafts, but you could maybe try that just to get thru this print.

What about just getting some thick plastic (or some other material) and just Dremel Tool it by hand?

Something like this (I realize you are not state side)?

pasted_image (resized).png

Now that I have ABS sticking to an object, time to work on the next issue warping on the long axis.

I have another print going and I'm using the Cura slicer recommended settings of 230 and 80 and see what happens.

20211114_041942 (resized).jpg20211114_042909 (resized).jpg

Does NOT like the suggested settings, aborted print as the majority were lifting. Trying again at 240 and 95.

20211114_071630 (resized).jpg

I suspect this is for TBL. If somebody wants to do this DP is happy to provide technical drawing of current metal subway.

If you would like I will convert the metal to a vac-formed part. Then you can push it back to DP to check fit. Solidworks ok?

So, what exactly is this part for again? If it needs to be heat resistant (e.g. will be used outside or in a vehicle, etc.) then ABS is the correct material or even Prusament ASA which has similar attributes of ABS but w/o the extreme shrinkage during print (actually even better for heat and stress is Prusament PC Blend filament).

If some temp resistance is required and you still want something to handle mechanical stress then I would suggest you work with PETG which is significantly easier to work with than ABS and you don't need an enclosure when using it.

Here's a materials guide reference that some may find helpful: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials#_ga=2.152325497.1148737379.1636895864-1305519260.1635276442

Some detailed info on a few of the filaments:
PLA | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/pla_2062
PETG | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/petg_2059
ABS | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/abs_2058
ASA | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/asa_1809
PC | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812

Sounds like you have a potential solution from pinball adventures but I do believe I have this mech loose in a box and can look at modeling this part at least for anyone in the future to use to print or have it lasered

I'm really starting to dislike ABS

20211114_133005 (resized).jpg

On the bright side, it's good that you have thermal protection enabled. A lot of the Chinese printers didn't have that enabled, or it wasn't even in the firmware (including some early Enders). Some scary youtube videos out there demonstrating what happens when the heaters runaway unchecked.

You can perhaps bump up the limits a bit.

The way that creality attaches the thermistor to the hotend SUCKS. The idea of using a screw against a thermistor (which can change the value) is a bad design. I highly recommend soldering in one that screws in (but make sure you torque it down well)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YNX79H8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

What's the reason of using ABS?

Non pinball related application.

I stumbled upon these or a similar one a couple of days ago, thought it was a great idea. I did notice one other brand had a silicone sleeve that slipped over it to help isolate it from the fan airflow. I'm getting ready to install a new extruder in a couple of days, I think I'll give this style a try. Maybe put a minute dab of thermal grease on the threads too.

I guess the only drawback is the thermistor is a bit farther back from the center of the block, but that could be easily compensated for by a temperature offset or dialing the temp a bit higher if needed. Probably splitting hairs tho.

Trying to do one item at a time to see if I can isolate the problem and improve.

That would be awesome. This is a great thread for the hobby.

Also a good idea. I think I have a part on the way but might not be a bad idea to trace it out when it arrives and try to manufacture a spare.

Thanks for the idea.

I didn't have to retune mine but it probably couldn't hurt.

I have had a couple of thermal runaways on my prusa and both times it was a faulty slice.

At a certain point in the slice it decided it wanted 0 degrees on the bed and the machine then sees the bed as too hot and throws a runaway error.

it was difficult to find, but the clue was that the file would runaway and stop at the exact some point each time it was run.

Question: fan on or off when printing ABS?

Funny you mentioned slicer as I dumped the 8 piece file done with Cura and doing a single piece with the bundled Creality slicer.

I never print abs mostly petg

Purchased the Creality 10S Pro V2 six months ago on special for around US$400.
Been a great workhorse and has all the extras included, like BL Touch, metal drives, thermal runaway etc.

IMG_20211115_160608336 (resized).jpg

Having a break from pinball for a while, so started printing out a full size R2D2.

About 18KG PLA+, 4KG ABS, 1KG TPU and around 2,000+ print hrs later, I can finally get to the painting and installing motor drives stage.

IMG_20210912_113749410 (resized).jpg

Some prints were 40+hrs, so occasionally watched on my phone from work on a cheap security camera pointing at the bed and using a Wi-Fi power adaptor to kill power if a nozzle blockage, or if a print gets knocked over which happened a couple of times.

Electric heater used whilst I was home to bring room temperature up to 30C (86F) for ABS only.
If anyone else is interested, scroll down this Mr Baddeley’s Patreon page for his free Onedrive link to the R2D2 STLs. Become a member and you have access to other droids, such as BB8.
https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley

I really do need to get back to pinball though

I see - but without knowing the real goal it's hard to offer alternates (if your are looking for).

Nice job!

Automotive.

A friend of mine prints in ABS all the time for his auto accessory business. He doesn't even prep the files, just prints them out after some outside guy has sliced the files.

If he can print regularly with ABS then I should be able to do so as well. He prints on glass with tinfoil and gluestick, same printer.

I's prefer to print with ABS as it is has more impact resistance, higher melting temp and doesn't degrade over time as PLA eventually will.

Have a another print going this morning, should know in 2 hours if successful, put a brim on it this time and upped the temps. The enclosure temp is at a steady 110F so I think that is more than warm enough. Also slowed down the print of the initial layers to try and get it to stick.

I know about that PLA can distort under direct sunlight, I made a mistake to dry some PLA prints in direct sunlight and they shrinked. But degrading PLA over time, what time are we talking about? I understand that in Automotive ABS is more used. For pinball related items, mods, replacements are we talking about degrading times within 10-15 years?

15 years seems to be worse case, longer of course under optimal conditions.

I'd prefer the more durable material all else being equal even if the learning curve is a PITA.

Oh, and the parts I'm printing currently? I'm building one last Ghostbusters proton pack with the supplies I still have on hand. The parts I'm missing, 3d printed. Seems like a good way to learn ABS and the packs tend to get beat up at events.

thrower_right (resized).jpg

Waiting..

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Success! Slower on first layer, used a brim and glue stick as well.

Here are the details I recall from memory.

Amazon ABS
Creality 1-2-3 slicer, average quality setting.
Pre-heated bed to 80C before loading program
Bed temp 105C
ABS temp 255C
Enclosure temp 43C (110F)
Factory Ender 3 Pro bed and magnetic mat with light coat of Gorilla glue stick.
Flow 100%
Fan ON (suggested by slicer)
Brim ON
First layer or two at only 30 mm/s, the rest at 50 mm/s
Nozzle fairly tight against the deck for good squish on the first layer, set with deck at 80C pre-warming.

Have to say my buddy is right, the ABS likes to be good and hot.

20211115_061320 (resized).jpg

OMG this is insanely awesome. Not counting hours of labor, what's material costs for this estimated to be when complete? Any idea? Just plastics, not motors, etc

I’m curious too - I’ve built an R2 using the styrene plans, which between resin printed and 3D parts, electronics, motors, metal parts (Mine has a metal dome), controller, circuit boards, etc has cost me about $2300 or so

Since we're posting droids I just finished printing this guy. Still have to do sanding, filling and painting but I think he looks great so far.

Snapchat-774063738 (resized).jpg

Hey guys,

I was checking out your thread and wanted to know if anyone could replicate the three zombie heads used in the Stern fish tank topper. (approximant size etc.).

Here's a link to the thread for reference.

Link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tank-topper-could-we-make-this-happen

I really appreciate any help you can provide.

Awesome!

Following up on printing with ABS.

Current settings are 250C and 100C with 50 mm/s speed, with 35mm/s for the first few layers.

On last nights job I noticed zits and blobs but just on the lower layer or two so assumed the print head was moving too slow at 25 mm/s. For this morning's test I bumped it to 35 mm/s and observed the same thing though perhaps not as bad. Should I move the lower layer speed to 45 mm/s or start looking at retraction settings?

Oh and the thermal issue was fixed by shutting off the damn fan when printing with ABS regardless of what the slicer program thinks.

Decided to slice the same model with Cura and Creality and do a test and see which looks better. Maybe some clue will be there.

Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor

nice idea. Will look into that.

I printed a couple of these, I forget where I got it. It was either Pinside or Thingiverse. I'll do some digging on my break.

This may be helpful. get a piece of cardboard, bend it into a U shape and place it over the camera. You can paint the cardboard black so you don’t see it. The picture here is a rough example and hardly elegant, but it will work.. You could tape this to the underside of the monitor to hold it in place.

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The main thing I've found with ABS is that recommendations are far more varied than PLA or PETG. Myself, I run the bed at 115C because that keeps the top surface of the bed over the glass transition temperature for ABS (approx 105C). Keeping it stuck to the bed is the first challenge, but even then, extreme warping can pull magnetic flexplates up at the corners or even cause PEI sheets to come loose. Avoiding warping is more than just keeping the print stuck to the bed.

My chamber, I try to keep at 50C. Below 40C, I can pretty much guarantee it will warp if it's big enough.

Hotend temp, the range is very wide in my experience. I've ran at 220C - 255C with no noticable differences. One thing I do that goes against conventional wisdom is to run the part fan at about 25%. If I don't, overhangs come out terrible. This depends on the chamber temp being high enough that it's blowing warm air over the part. Blowing cool air will cause warping.

Right now I'm running between 100 and 105C with the stock bed (no glass) and the unit maxes out at 110C

Yes I'm getting minor warping on the bed surface side but at this point I'm happy to just get a print to stick and complete.

Now comes the fine tuning to get rid of the quality issues.

I'm averaging 110F (43C) with no heat source besides the printer but so far all of my ABS prints have been done in under 4-5 hours or less. I am planning to insulate it properly to see if I can get another 10F warmer though without addition heatsource.

I'll try a few test prints with 25% fan and with fan off. With the fan on per the slicer 100% it causes my Ender to error out with thermal code. Watching the control panel the nozzle temp starts dropping and coming back up like mad. No fan and its rock steady.

Next print test is tonight with 250C/100C with fan off sliced with Cura to see if the zits go away. If so I'll examine the settings to find out what is different between Creality 1-2-3 and Cura. From memory it looks like retraction settings are different and that could be it right there.

Thanks for the feedback!

found this one on thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628012

do not see directly how this is used. Will print it and test it.