(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,687 posts
  • 197 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by John_I
  • Topic is favorited by 281 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    20210612_104620a (resized).jpg
    20210610_144809a (resized).jpg
    20220109_160327 (resized).jpg
    20220116_155330 (resized).jpg
    pasted_image (resized).png
    pasted_image (resized).png
    2 (resized).jpg
    1 (resized).png
    Screen Shot 2022-01-20 at 6.41.01 AM (resized).png
    cv_scrolls (resized).png
    Screen Shot 2022-01-19 at 7.54.16 PM (resized).png
    20220115_185035 (resized).jpg
    20220119_145041 (resized).jpg
    20220119_144627 (resized).jpg
    PXL_20220116_013724310.MP (resized).jpg
    PXL_20220116_013327790 (resized).jpg

    There are 1,687 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 34.
    #1201 74 days ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    yea always sand PEI following with alcohol whenever things stop sticking. I sometimes go down to 200 grit because 600 grit doesn't always have enough bite.

    Pulled the glass sheet, back to factory. Last attempt the nozzle was actually dragging on the print.

    This thing prints PLA flawless. kicking my ass with ABS

    #1202 74 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Pulled the glass sheet, back to factory. Last attempt the nozzle was actually dragging on the print.
    This thing prints PLA flawless. kicking my ass with ABS

    Just apply a light amount of purple glue stick and you’ll be done with it. One application and you’ll do a dozen prints. Washes off in seconds with warm water. PEI is hit or miss with ABS and no coating. And you don’t need to go that hot. 235 should be enough so you don’t warp.

    #1203 74 days ago
    Quoted from PinballBuzz:We have several of the vari-targets that we bought as samples and I would be happy to send you one. We had to manufacture our own using a neat downward gravity twist on the mech. We might sell them next year, since no one that we know is presently manufacturing them. They would replace any of the old ones. Just pm me on what you need. Happy to help.

    That’s awesome man! Thanks. I’ll reach out

    #1204 74 days ago
    Quoted from BobLangelius:

    I could draw it up, put you would have to send the broken parts to me.
    PM if interested.

    Unfortunately on only have half of it.

    #1205 74 days ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Is the original piece plastic?

    No it’s that pressed fibre. Bake light or whatever it’s called.

    #1206 74 days ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    Just apply a light amount of purple glue stick and you’ll be done with it. One application and you’ll do a dozen prints. Washes off in seconds with warm water. PEI is hit or miss with ABS and no coating. And you don’t need to go that hot. 235 should be enough so you don’t warp.

    I have it throttled back to 240 at the moment.

    Will try the glass with PEI again with glue stick and see what happens, printing flawlessly on the factory mag sheet at the moment.

    #1207 74 days ago

    At 37%

    Currently at 235 and 95 and that's where I'm going to leave it for the rest of the night. Still using the insulated box, seems to help.

    20211113_191539 (resized).jpg
    #1208 74 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    At 37%
    Currently at 235 and 95 and that's where I'm going to leave it for the rest of the night. Still using the insulated box, seems to help.
    [quoted image]

    I would say, the last thing to try if this last experiment fails, mix up some abs slurry use that on the glass bed.

    #1209 74 days ago
    Quoted from RobF:

    I would say, the last thing to try if this last experiment fails, mix up some abs slurry use that on the glass bed.

    I know some people aren't a fan of rafts, but you could maybe try that just to get thru this print.

    #1210 74 days ago
    Quoted from Pauz21:

    No it’s that pressed fibre. Bake light or whatever it’s called.

    What about just getting some thick plastic (or some other material) and just Dremel Tool it by hand?

    Something like this (I realize you are not state side)?

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #1211 74 days ago

    Now that I have ABS sticking to an object, time to work on the next issue warping on the long axis.

    I have another print going and I'm using the Cura slicer recommended settings of 230 and 80 and see what happens.

    20211114_041942 (resized).jpg20211114_042909 (resized).jpg

    #1212 74 days ago

    Does NOT like the suggested settings, aborted print as the majority were lifting. Trying again at 240 and 95.

    20211114_071630 (resized).jpg
    #1213 74 days ago
    Quoted from cpr9999:

    Anyone know someone who can make a small run (say 10-20) custom plastic ramps?
    This is replacing a steel subway ramp with plastic one.
    Thx

    I suspect this is for TBL. If somebody wants to do this DP is happy to provide technical drawing of current metal subway.

    #1214 74 days ago

    If you would like I will convert the metal to a vac-formed part. Then you can push it back to DP to check fit. Solidworks ok?

    #1215 74 days ago

    So, what exactly is this part for again? If it needs to be heat resistant (e.g. will be used outside or in a vehicle, etc.) then ABS is the correct material or even Prusament ASA which has similar attributes of ABS but w/o the extreme shrinkage during print (actually even better for heat and stress is Prusament PC Blend filament).

    If some temp resistance is required and you still want something to handle mechanical stress then I would suggest you work with PETG which is significantly easier to work with than ABS and you don't need an enclosure when using it.

    Here's a materials guide reference that some may find helpful: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials#_ga=2.152325497.1148737379.1636895864-1305519260.1635276442

    Some detailed info on a few of the filaments:
    PLA | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/pla_2062
    PETG | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/petg_2059
    ABS | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/abs_2058
    ASA | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/asa_1809
    PC | https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/polycarbonate-pc_165812

    #1216 74 days ago
    Quoted from Pauz21:

    No it’s that pressed fibre. Bake light or whatever it’s called.

    Sounds like you have a potential solution from pinball adventures but I do believe I have this mech loose in a box and can look at modeling this part at least for anyone in the future to use to print or have it lasered

    #1217 73 days ago

    I'm really starting to dislike ABS

    20211114_133005 (resized).jpg
    #1218 73 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I'm really starting to dislike ABS
    [quoted image]

    On the bright side, it's good that you have thermal protection enabled. A lot of the Chinese printers didn't have that enabled, or it wasn't even in the firmware (including some early Enders). Some scary youtube videos out there demonstrating what happens when the heaters runaway unchecked.

    You can perhaps bump up the limits a bit.

    #1219 73 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I'm really starting to dislike ABS
    [quoted image]

    The way that creality attaches the thermistor to the hotend SUCKS. The idea of using a screw against a thermistor (which can change the value) is a bad design. I highly recommend soldering in one that screws in (but make sure you torque it down well)
    amazon.com link »

    #1220 73 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I'm really starting to dislike ABS
    [quoted image]

    What's the reason of using ABS?

    #1221 73 days ago
    Quoted from Davi:

    What's the reason of using ABS?

    Non pinball related application.

    #1222 73 days ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    The way that creality attaches the thermistor to the hotend SUCKS. The idea of using a screw against a thermistor (which can change the value) is a bad design. I highly recommend soldering in one that screws in (but make sure you torque it down well)
    amazon.com link »

    I stumbled upon these or a similar one a couple of days ago, thought it was a great idea. I did notice one other brand had a silicone sleeve that slipped over it to help isolate it from the fan airflow. I'm getting ready to install a new extruder in a couple of days, I think I'll give this style a try. Maybe put a minute dab of thermal grease on the threads too.

    I guess the only drawback is the thermistor is a bit farther back from the center of the block, but that could be easily compensated for by a temperature offset or dialing the temp a bit higher if needed. Probably splitting hairs tho.

    #1223 73 days ago

    Trying to do one item at a time to see if I can isolate the problem and improve.

    #1224 73 days ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Sounds like you have a potential solution from pinball adventures but I do believe I have this mech loose in a box and can look at modeling this part at least for anyone in the future to use to print or have it lasered

    That would be awesome. This is a great thread for the hobby.

    #1225 73 days ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    What about just getting some thick plastic (or some other material) and just Dremel Tool it by hand?
    Something like this (I realize you are not state side)?
    [quoted image]

    Also a good idea. I think I have a part on the way but might not be a bad idea to trace it out when it arrives and try to manufacture a spare.

    Thanks for the idea.

    #1226 73 days ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    I guess the only drawback is the thermistor is a bit farther back from the center of the block, but that could be easily compensated for by a temperature offset or dialing the temp a bit higher if needed. Probably splitting hairs tho.

    I didn't have to retune mine but it probably couldn't hurt.

    #1227 73 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    I'm really starting to dislike ABS
    [quoted image]

    I have had a couple of thermal runaways on my prusa and both times it was a faulty slice.

    At a certain point in the slice it decided it wanted 0 degrees on the bed and the machine then sees the bed as too hot and throws a runaway error.

    it was difficult to find, but the clue was that the file would runaway and stop at the exact some point each time it was run.

    #1228 73 days ago
    Quoted from BobLangelius:

    I have had a couple of thermal runaways on my prusa and both times it was a faulty slice.
    At a certain point in the slice it decided it wanted 0 degrees on the bed and the machine then sees the bed as too hot and throws a runaway error.
    it was difficult to find, but the clue was that the file would runaway and stop at the exact some point each time it was run.

    Question: fan on or off when printing ABS?

    Funny you mentioned slicer as I dumped the 8 piece file done with Cura and doing a single piece with the bundled Creality slicer.

    #1229 73 days ago

    I never print abs mostly petg

    15
    #1230 73 days ago

    Purchased the Creality 10S Pro V2 six months ago on special for around US$400.
    Been a great workhorse and has all the extras included, like BL Touch, metal drives, thermal runaway etc.

    IMG_20211115_160608336 (resized).jpg

    Having a break from pinball for a while, so started printing out a full size R2D2.

    About 18KG PLA+, 4KG ABS, 1KG TPU and around 2,000+ print hrs later, I can finally get to the painting and installing motor drives stage.

    IMG_20210912_113749410 (resized).jpg

    Some prints were 40+hrs, so occasionally watched on my phone from work on a cheap security camera pointing at the bed and using a Wi-Fi power adaptor to kill power if a nozzle blockage, or if a print gets knocked over which happened a couple of times.

    Electric heater used whilst I was home to bring room temperature up to 30C (86F) for ABS only.
    If anyone else is interested, scroll down this Mr Baddeley’s Patreon page for his free Onedrive link to the R2D2 STLs. Become a member and you have access to other droids, such as BB8.
    https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley

    I really do need to get back to pinball though

    #1231 73 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Non pinball related application.

    I see - but without knowing the real goal it's hard to offer alternates (if your are looking for).

    #1232 73 days ago
    Quoted from OzPaul:

    Purchased the Creality 10S Pro V2 six months ago on special for around US$400.
    Been a great workhorse and has all the extras included, like BL Touch, metal drives, thermal runaway etc.
    [quoted image]
    Having a break from pinball for a while, so started printing out a full size R2D2.
    About 18KG PLA+, 4KG ABS, 1KG TPU and around 2,000+ print hrs later, I can finally get to the painting and installing motor drives stage.
    [quoted image]
    Some prints were 40+hrs, so occasionally watched on my phone from work on a cheap security camera pointing at the bed and using a Wi-Fi power adaptor to kill power if a nozzle blockage, or if a print gets knocked over which happened a couple of times.
    Electric heater used whilst I was home to bring room temperature up to 30C (86F) for ABS only.
    If anyone else is interested, scroll down this Mr Baddeley’s Patreon page for his free Onedrive link to the R2D2 STLs. Become a member and you have access to other droids, such as BB8.
    https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
    I really do need to get back to pinball though

    Nice job!

    #1233 73 days ago
    Quoted from Davi:

    I see - but without knowing the real goal it's hard to offer alternates (if your are looking for).

    Automotive.

    A friend of mine prints in ABS all the time for his auto accessory business. He doesn't even prep the files, just prints them out after some outside guy has sliced the files.

    If he can print regularly with ABS then I should be able to do so as well. He prints on glass with tinfoil and gluestick, same printer.

    I's prefer to print with ABS as it is has more impact resistance, higher melting temp and doesn't degrade over time as PLA eventually will.

    Have a another print going this morning, should know in 2 hours if successful, put a brim on it this time and upped the temps. The enclosure temp is at a steady 110F so I think that is more than warm enough. Also slowed down the print of the initial layers to try and get it to stick.

    #1234 73 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Automotive.
    A friend of mine prints in ABS all the time for his auto accessory business. He doesn't even prep the files, just prints them out after some outside guy has sliced the files.
    If he can print regularly with ABS then I should be able to do so as well. He prints on glass with tinfoil and gluestick, same printer.
    I's prefer to print with ABS as it is has more impact resistance, higher melting temp and doesn't degrade over time as PLA eventually will.
    Have a another print going this morning, should know in 2 hours if successful, put a brim on it this time and upped the temps. The enclosure temp is at a steady 110F so I think that is more than warm enough. Also slowed down the print of the initial layers to try and get it to stick.

    I know about that PLA can distort under direct sunlight, I made a mistake to dry some PLA prints in direct sunlight and they shrinked. But degrading PLA over time, what time are we talking about? I understand that in Automotive ABS is more used. For pinball related items, mods, replacements are we talking about degrading times within 10-15 years?

    #1235 73 days ago
    Quoted from PeterG:

    I know about that PLA can distort under direct sunlight, I made a mistake to dry some PLA prints in direct sunlight and they shrinked. But degrading PLA over time, what time are we talking about? I understand that in Automotive ABS is more used. For pinball related items, mods, replacements are we talking about degrading times within 10-15 years?

    15 years seems to be worse case, longer of course under optimal conditions.

    I'd prefer the more durable material all else being equal even if the learning curve is a PITA.

    Oh, and the parts I'm printing currently? I'm building one last Ghostbusters proton pack with the supplies I still have on hand. The parts I'm missing, 3d printed. Seems like a good way to learn ABS and the packs tend to get beat up at events.

    thrower_right (resized).jpg
    #1236 73 days ago

    Waiting..

    20211115_060851 (resized).jpg
    #1237 73 days ago

    Success! Slower on first layer, used a brim and glue stick as well.

    Here are the details I recall from memory.

    Amazon ABS
    Creality 1-2-3 slicer, average quality setting.
    Pre-heated bed to 80C before loading program
    Bed temp 105C
    ABS temp 255C
    Enclosure temp 43C (110F)
    Factory Ender 3 Pro bed and magnetic mat with light coat of Gorilla glue stick.
    Flow 100%
    Fan ON (suggested by slicer)
    Brim ON
    First layer or two at only 30 mm/s, the rest at 50 mm/s
    Nozzle fairly tight against the deck for good squish on the first layer, set with deck at 80C pre-warming.

    Have to say my buddy is right, the ABS likes to be good and hot.

    20211115_061320 (resized).jpg

    #1238 73 days ago
    Quoted from OzPaul:

    Purchased the Creality 10S Pro V2 six months ago on special for around US$400.
    Been a great workhorse and has all the extras included, like BL Touch, metal drives, thermal runaway etc.
    [quoted image]
    Having a break from pinball for a while, so started printing out a full size R2D2.
    About 18KG PLA+, 4KG ABS, 1KG TPU and around 2,000+ print hrs later, I can finally get to the painting and installing motor drives stage.
    [quoted image]
    Some prints were 40+hrs, so occasionally watched on my phone from work on a cheap security camera pointing at the bed and using a Wi-Fi power adaptor to kill power if a nozzle blockage, or if a print gets knocked over which happened a couple of times.
    Electric heater used whilst I was home to bring room temperature up to 30C (86F) for ABS only.
    If anyone else is interested, scroll down this Mr Baddeley’s Patreon page for his free Onedrive link to the R2D2 STLs. Become a member and you have access to other droids, such as BB8.
    https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
    I really do need to get back to pinball though

    OMG this is insanely awesome. Not counting hours of labor, what's material costs for this estimated to be when complete? Any idea? Just plastics, not motors, etc

    #1239 72 days ago
    Quoted from Vespula:

    OMG this is insanely awesome. Not counting hours of labor, what's material costs for this estimated to be when complete? Any idea? Just plastics, not motors, etc

    I’m curious too - I’ve built an R2 using the styrene plans, which between resin printed and 3D parts, electronics, motors, metal parts (Mine has a metal dome), controller, circuit boards, etc has cost me about $2300 or so

    #1240 72 days ago

    Since we're posting droids I just finished printing this guy. Still have to do sanding, filling and painting but I think he looks great so far.

    Snapchat-774063738 (resized).jpg
    #1241 72 days ago

    Hey guys,

    I was checking out your thread and wanted to know if anyone could replicate the three zombie heads used in the Stern fish tank topper. (approximant size etc.).

    Here's a link to the thread for reference.

    Link
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tank-topper-could-we-make-this-happen

    I really appreciate any help you can provide.

    #1242 72 days ago
    Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

    Since we're posting droids I just finished printing this guy. Still have to do sanding, filling and painting but I think he looks great so far.
    [quoted image]

    Awesome!

    #1243 72 days ago

    Following up on printing with ABS.

    Current settings are 250C and 100C with 50 mm/s speed, with 35mm/s for the first few layers.

    On last nights job I noticed zits and blobs but just on the lower layer or two so assumed the print head was moving too slow at 25 mm/s. For this morning's test I bumped it to 35 mm/s and observed the same thing though perhaps not as bad. Should I move the lower layer speed to 45 mm/s or start looking at retraction settings?

    Oh and the thermal issue was fixed by shutting off the damn fan when printing with ABS regardless of what the slicer program thinks.

    Decided to slice the same model with Cura and Creality and do a test and see which looks better. Maybe some clue will be there.

    #1244 72 days ago

    Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor

    #1245 72 days ago
    Quoted from parsonsaj:

    Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor

    nice idea. Will look into that.

    #1246 72 days ago
    Quoted from parsonsaj:

    Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor

    I printed a couple of these, I forget where I got it. It was either Pinside or Thingiverse. I'll do some digging on my break.

    #1247 72 days ago
    Quoted from parsonsaj:

    Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor

    This may be helpful. get a piece of cardboard, bend it into a U shape and place it over the camera. You can paint the cardboard black so you don’t see it. The picture here is a rough example and hardly elegant, but it will work.. You could tape this to the underside of the monitor to hold it in place.

    187326D0-23CD-462C-BABF-8E0D0090C08F (resized).jpeg
    #1248 72 days ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Following up on printing with ABS

    The main thing I've found with ABS is that recommendations are far more varied than PLA or PETG. Myself, I run the bed at 115C because that keeps the top surface of the bed over the glass transition temperature for ABS (approx 105C). Keeping it stuck to the bed is the first challenge, but even then, extreme warping can pull magnetic flexplates up at the corners or even cause PEI sheets to come loose. Avoiding warping is more than just keeping the print stuck to the bed.

    My chamber, I try to keep at 50C. Below 40C, I can pretty much guarantee it will warp if it's big enough.

    Hotend temp, the range is very wide in my experience. I've ran at 220C - 255C with no noticable differences. One thing I do that goes against conventional wisdom is to run the part fan at about 25%. If I don't, overhangs come out terrible. This depends on the chamber temp being high enough that it's blowing warm air over the part. Blowing cool air will cause warping.

    #1249 72 days ago
    Quoted from herg:

    Myself, I run the bed at 115C because that keeps the top surface of the bed over the glass transition temperature for ABS (approx 105C).

    Right now I'm running between 100 and 105C with the stock bed (no glass) and the unit maxes out at 110C

    Quoted from herg:

    Avoiding warping is more than just keeping the print stuck to the bed.

    Yes I'm getting minor warping on the bed surface side but at this point I'm happy to just get a print to stick and complete.

    Now comes the fine tuning to get rid of the quality issues.

    Quoted from herg:

    My chamber, I try to keep at 50C. Below 40C, I can pretty much guarantee it will warp if it's big enough.

    I'm averaging 110F (43C) with no heat source besides the printer but so far all of my ABS prints have been done in under 4-5 hours or less. I am planning to insulate it properly to see if I can get another 10F warmer though without addition heatsource.

    Quoted from herg:

    Hotend temp, the range is very wide in my experience. I've ran at 220C - 255C with no noticable differences. One thing I do that goes against conventional wisdom is to run the part fan at about 25%. If I don't, overhangs come out terrible.

    I'll try a few test prints with 25% fan and with fan off. With the fan on per the slicer 100% it causes my Ender to error out with thermal code. Watching the control panel the nozzle temp starts dropping and coming back up like mad. No fan and its rock steady.

    Next print test is tonight with 250C/100C with fan off sliced with Cura to see if the zits go away. If so I'll examine the settings to find out what is different between Creality 1-2-3 and Cura. From memory it looks like retraction settings are different and that could be it right there.

    Thanks for the feedback!

    #1250 71 days ago

    found this one on thingiverse

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628012

    do not see directly how this is used. Will print it and test it.

    There are 1,687 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 34.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside