Quoted from Anony:

I have this one bookmarked from a while ago when someone else recommended it but I haven't gone through it yet so I can't say how good it is.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrZ2zKOtC_-DJuRQXapOljLBQxAfRoh3S&si=ggrr54EYR6RgI1Qz
The one I used personally was from this guy. He has a series of tutorials that are really good, however fusion has gone through major changes since then so things are not going to look the same

Quoted from DudeRegular:

So I figured I would get some suggestions on how to use Fusion360 or one of the free(ish) cad programs.
A coworker just informed me about the veteran edition of solidworks. Anybody use it? 20 bucks
https://veteran-store.solidworks.com/veteran/default.php
The SOLIDWORKS Veteran Edition includes:
SOLIDWORKS® 2023
SOLIDWORKS Premium (3D CAD software)
SOLIDWORKS Simulation Premium (FEA tools)
SOLIDWORKS Flow Simulation (CFD tools)
SOLIDWORKS Motion (kinematics analysis)
SOLIDWORKS Plastics Premium (part and mold filling analysis)
SOLIDWORKS Sustainability (environmental impact tools)
SOLIDWORKS Electrical Professional (electrical systems design tools)
SOLIDWORKS CAM Professional (integrate design and manufacturing processes)
SOLIDWORKS Model-Based Definition (define, organize, and publish 3D PMI)
SOLIDWORKS Composer (technical documentation tools)
SOLIDWORKS Visualize Professional (develop rich, photo quality content)
MySolidWorks Professional (your connection to everything SOLIDWORKS)
eDrawings® Professional (Viewing and publishing application)
SolidWorks for Military Veterans

Quoted from DudeRegular:

So I figured I would get some suggestions on how to use Fusion360 or one of the free(ish) cad programs.
A coworker just informed me about the veteran edition of solidworks. Anybody use it? 20 bucks
https://veteran-store.solidworks.com/veteran/default.php
The SOLIDWORKS Veteran Edition includes:
SOLIDWORKS® 2023
SOLIDWORKS Premium (3D CAD software)
SOLIDWORKS Simulation Premium (FEA tools)
SOLIDWORKS Flow Simulation (CFD tools)
SOLIDWORKS Motion (kinematics analysis)
SOLIDWORKS Plastics Premium (part and mold filling analysis)
SOLIDWORKS Sustainability (environmental impact tools)
SOLIDWORKS Electrical Professional (electrical systems design tools)
SOLIDWORKS CAM Professional (integrate design and manufacturing processes)
SOLIDWORKS Model-Based Definition (define, organize, and publish 3D PMI)
SOLIDWORKS Composer (technical documentation tools)
SOLIDWORKS Visualize Professional (develop rich, photo quality content)
MySolidWorks Professional (your connection to everything SOLIDWORKS)
eDrawings® Professional (Viewing and publishing application)
SolidWorks for Military Veterans

Quoted from toyotaboy:

Right.. but you need to be a veteran (or at least know someone that can provide the paperwork to buy one)

Quoted from DudeRegular:

Well I hope someone can find it useful.

Quoted from Jazman:

ABSOLUTELY! I think it is awesome that they do that. Our company uses that product professionally and it's around $8K to start... not sure how much that package would be...

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Circling back here to provide an update. A couple of weeks ago I posted here a request for help in printing a file that was too large for our Ender 3. The file is an adapter to fit a Pinballlife/Spooky LCD screen into a Stern speaker housing, which we are using for our Honebrew. Ken eyeamred2u quickly volunteered and printed it over the Labor Day weekend, shipped to me the first business day, and did so at no charge. Just wanted to show the before and after progress we have made thanks to this adapter! LCD is installed snugly and also was then able to install speakers! Will power up LCD in a few days. Ken me and my boys appreciate you and we will pay it forward!
Also please follow our homebrew build where we have leveraged all kinds of 3D printed parts!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/overwatch-homebrew-pinball
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Circling back here to provide an update. A couple of weeks ago I posted here a request for help in printing a file that was too large for our Ender 3. The file is an adapter to fit a Pinballlife/Spooky LCD screen into a Stern speaker housing, which we are using for our Honebrew. Ken eyeamred2u quickly volunteered and printed it over the Labor Day weekend, shipped to me the first business day, and did so at no charge. Just wanted to show the before and after progress we have made thanks to this adapter! LCD is installed snugly and also was then able to install speakers! Will power up LCD in a few days. Ken me and my boys appreciate you and we will pay it forward!
Also please follow our homebrew build where we have leveraged all kinds of 3D printed parts!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/overwatch-homebrew-pinball
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from DaddyManD:

Circling back here to provide an update. A couple of weeks ago I posted here a request for help in printing a file that was too large for our Ender 3. The file is an adapter to fit a Pinballlife/Spooky LCD screen into a Stern speaker housing, which we are using for our Honebrew. Ken eyeamred2u quickly volunteered and printed it over the Labor Day weekend, shipped to me the first business day, and did so at no charge. Just wanted to show the before and after progress we have made thanks to this adapter! LCD is installed snugly and also was then able to install speakers! Will power up LCD in a few days. Ken me and my boys appreciate you and we will pay it forward!
Also please follow our homebrew build where we have leveraged all kinds of 3D printed parts!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/overwatch-homebrew-pinball
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from king_pin:

What color of T-moulding are you going to go with? Looks great!

Quoted from rapidflipper:

I just uploaded my train track mod for CCr, and it's available for free on Printables.

Quoted from RyanStl:Are any of you all using fancy nozzles? I'm upgrading my print head was wondering it was worth a ruby or diamond.

Quoted from RyanStl:

Are any of you all using fancy nozzles? I'm upgrading my print head was wondering it was worth a ruby or diamond.

Quoted from RyanStl:

Are any of you all using fancy nozzles? I'm upgrading my print head was wondering it was worth a ruby or diamond.

Quoted from mstire:

I'm working on a 1960 Williams Darts and I can't find any of these roll over play field inserts. They have a little roll over button that rests in the center of it. I've checked everywhere and talked to Steve at PBR. Not available. Has a printable file been made for this yet? Is there someone here that can print these? I need 2 yellow and 2 white. I don't need the button, just the inserts.
Thanks in advance!
[quoted image]

Quoted from rapidflipper:

Cross-posting from the Cactus Canyon Remake owners thread:
I just uploaded my train track mod for CCr, and it's available for free on Printables. I designed it using TinkerCad, and refined the design over a few days. The railroad ties have a wood grain pattern for a rustic effect, and I'm proud of how it looks in the game.
https://www.printables.com/model/582562-cactus-canyon-train-track-mod-for-cgc-remake-pinba
Enjoy![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from king_pin:

Great job on these. How did you apply the wood texture like that?

Quoted from DudeRegular:

So I figured I would get some suggestions on how to use Fusion360 or one of the free(ish) cad programs.
A coworker just informed me about the veteran edition of solidworks. Anybody use it? 20 bucks
https://veteran-store.solidworks.com/veteran/default.php
The SOLIDWORKS Veteran Edition includes:
SOLIDWORKS® 2023
...

Quoted from Anony:

Obviously the hardened nozzles are good if you are using any abrasive filament but the only other nozzle I've seen that is proven through testing to be better is that split one that splits the filament into three strands so it can melt faster.
It's probably only necessary if you are trying to print very fast though. Otherwise just go with the standard hardened nozzles.

Quoted from king_pin:

...How did you apply the wood texture like that?

Quoted from mbwalker:

I was wondering the same thing.
Just when I think I hit my limits w/TinkerCad...then I see something that someone else did that is really neat!

Quoted from swinks:

here is another example what I did 10 years ago now
[quoted image]

Quoted from mbwalker:

You did that in TinkerCad, from scratch?

Quoted from RyanStl:

Most abrasive I have right now is a wood PLA I'm trying right now with a new standard bronze nozzle. I have one bronze left and thought maybe I'll upgrade.

Quoted from Anony:

I changed the bulbs in an older machine from incandescent to LED and now I'm getting some light bleeding between the inserts. I'm going to 3d print some baffles to block the light but I'm not sure how to attach them to the underside of the playfield. I think hot glue would work but it's a pain to work with since it strings so much and you need to work fast before the glue hardens.
Other things I'm considering are a silicone adhesive or two sided tape. I have some really strong tape but it's a pain to apply.
Any suggestions?

Quoted from Jazman:

I've got some of the wood PLA to try out. Did you try any finishes with it (ie: stain, etc)? How are results? I'm assuming to get real wood looking stuff you'll have to build the grain surface into the model as well.

Quoted from mitchzizzle:

Hey sorry for the aside but I am just wondering if anybody here is able to help me with a 3D project that I havent been able to get to the point Id like it to be for printing.. I am trying to get a nice looking replacement 'Big Shot' figure for Dr Dude, I started with the pretty good looking 3D file that already exists (from virtual Dr Dude) - and really it just needs a few details and proportions changed to be very close to the real thing. Ive been trying to do this in blender but really Im just making a mess.. 3D is not my medium. If anybody here has the skills and is willing to help, Id be happy to discuss some monetary considerations for your time, and hopefully we can post the file here and end the Big Shot Cartel!
If anybody can help, send me a PM

Quoted from aeneas:

Here are all the pieces installed in my game.
Center piece had failed (shifted layers) and I'm going to rework that a bit tonight.
Want to see this week when it's painted how it looks.
Not totally happy with the left parts but don't have ideas on how to improve them. Don't want to make them a column with a torch..
Also want to see if I can improve how it looks under the lamps, play with some shadows maybe.[quoted image]

Quoted from Luckydogg420:

I printed a couple spool holders from thingiverse and mounted them to the ceiling above my printer. It’s pretty convenient and works well as a storage solution
[quoted image]

Quoted from herg:

That's funny, I was just thinking of doing the same. I broke the one on the side of my printer with a 3kg spool, and I was debating between doing exactly what you did vs some of "TUSH" roller bearing type. Which design did you use?

Quoted from mwong168:

This looks great and I've been on the fence on the Maiden backdrop from Ministry of Pinball. Curious if you making these to sell or just for your own game?

Quoted from Luckydogg420:

This was my most recent project. A Ghostbusters sign for the game room. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5387694 I think whenever you print a light up sign the infill should be 100%, and if I print this again I will make the ghost out of glow in the dark filament. The light is just a led strip along the inside edge
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Luckydogg420:

I printed a couple spool holders from thingiverse and mounted them to the ceiling above my printer. It’s pretty convenient and works well as a storage solution
[quoted image]

Quoted from Jazman:

Nice setup. I'm not sure how much you print or how often you burn thru your filament. Based on the window, I'm guessing this is a lower level. Just something to be aware of if you aren't already, all filament is hygroscopic... some materials more than others. Leaving it open like that will cause it to degrade over time to where prints will get ugly or fail to print at all (how long depends on the moisture level and the material).
Happy printing!

Quoted from Luckydogg420:

Thanks for the heads up. My whole house is humidity controlled and I also have a food dehydrator that I thought might work better if I notice an issue. So far I’m only using pla. I thought nylon was the only stuff to really worry about

Quoted from Anony:

I swear I've had rolls that went bad after leaving them out during summer but it's hard to say for sure what happened. I've seen people on youtube do tests where they literally stick a roll of PLA in water and it doesn't seem to do much so I have a feeling the worries about water absorption are overblown.

Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Not overblown, not to me at least. I use a few different brands of PLA and have seen one brand in particular become brittle if not stored air tight. I like their product, so I learned really quick to bag it.
Just my 2 cents.