Quoted from alexanr1:I will just leave this here for you...
ebay.com link: itm
I think he is looking for Data East parts not Stern.
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3 weeks later
Quoted from mbwalker:An update to my updated update
Wifey's experimenting w/colors...
[quoted image]
When the screen/speaker panel is dropped do these hit the glass?
4 weeks later
Quoted from plasticbugs:In another thread about the noisy power supply fan in modern Sterns (mine is a TMNT), someone posted a 40mm to 60mm fan adapter for mounting a larger, quieter 12 volt fan on top of the existing fan. This saves you from opening the power supply area and voiding your warranty to replace the fan. It also saves you from the over-loud fan that sounds like a gosh dang hovercraft when it kicks on.
However, the adapter version that was posted no longer exists, so I created a custom version from scratch in Fusion 360 which is made specifically to mount a 60mm fan on top of the Stern power supply using one of the pre-existing screws. I printed mine on a Prusa Mini.
I'm using a nice and quiet Noctua NF-A6x25 that I got off of Amazon. It connects to the open 12 Volt power connector on the power board just below the power supply box using a connector and cable from Pinball Life:
https://www.pinballlife.com/spike-12-volt-backbox-power-adapter-cable.html
You can see where this 12V connection is in the pictures on Pinball Life.
All the details are on the thingiverse page:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844962[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Does the original fan not kick on with the larger fan running all the time?
7 months later
I am looking to jump into the 3d printing world soon. I was leaning towards a prusa, but saw they are 5-6 weeks out. So now thinking about the ender 3 v2 and getting the often mentioned upgrades for reliability. BLTouch gets mentioned quite a bit. Is anyone using the CR Touch from creality? Pricing is similar. Also any advice on specific parts for this machine would be appreciated. Thanks
Alright, it looks like I will have an Ender 3v2 under the tree. What filament is recommended for getting started?
Thanks fellas. I will start with PLA and then maybe go to PETG. I will probably fiddle around with random pinball related prints at first. Probably not visible stuff, more functional pieces like spacers, led strip mounts, things like that.
3 weeks later
Quoted from latenite04:The wash and cure is amazing but get ready to stock up on IPA. I only washed prints from my Saturn by hand for a week before mine showed up and I think I would have quit resin if I had to continue that. The new 6k and 8k printers look very interesting, I'd like to see how much finer the detail can go over the Saturn's 4k screen. Good luck with it.
These flipper buttons were my latest resin project, I printed the center and then added the colors by hand.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Super cool
3 months later
Quoted from Mbecker:How do you buy Amazon returns? You can specifically search for and buy return products at discount?
Either go to the warehouse or when you find a product hit the button to see all buying options. I just bought a motherboard that was 169 new for 112 used. It said may be missing parts, but everything was in the box. It was clearly opened at some point, but looks great. I need to install it to make sure it works soon.
1 year later
Somebody please enlighten me, had trouble with my ender3 v2 with a CR Touch and put it on the shelf. Problems around first layers being super thin, then things going spaghetti. Ordered and installed a PEI sheet and started up again today. Leveled the bed, its set to do 5x5. Set Z-height with the paper method. It starts to just drag at -2.15 or so and really drag at -2.19.
Start a print and it looks like the nozzle is laying the thinnest layer ever down, basically nothing at all filament wise. Pause, raise it up, feeding/extruding just fine.
Start again, this time as soon as the print starts, I manually set the z-height to something like -1.9 and its laying down much nicer layers. Maybe not perfect, but such a big improvement. Would love some insight into this z-height difference.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Any time you make a change you'll need to recalculate the first layer height. The PEI sheet is way different than a smooth sheet, and I think you're just seeing the difference when you start the print. Set that Z layer offset permanently and you should be good to go.
I guess I am stuck with the whole set the z height paper deal if the height it comes up with is so far of. Is there part of the process I am missing. I read guides and watch videos, randomly saw a comment where someone said just raise it during the print.
I want to understand why.
3 weeks later
So I figured I would get some suggestions on how to use Fusion360 or one of the free(ish) cad programs.
A coworker just informed me about the veteran edition of solidworks. Anybody use it? 20 bucks
https://veteran-store.solidworks.com/veteran/default.php
The SOLIDWORKS Veteran Edition includes:
SOLIDWORKS® 2023
SOLIDWORKS Premium (3D CAD software)
SOLIDWORKS Simulation Premium (FEA tools)
SOLIDWORKS Flow Simulation (CFD tools)
SOLIDWORKS Motion (kinematics analysis)
SOLIDWORKS Plastics Premium (part and mold filling analysis)
SOLIDWORKS Sustainability (environmental impact tools)
SOLIDWORKS Electrical Professional (electrical systems design tools)
SOLIDWORKS CAM Professional (integrate design and manufacturing processes)
SOLIDWORKS Model-Based Definition (define, organize, and publish 3D PMI)
SOLIDWORKS Composer (technical documentation tools)
SOLIDWORKS Visualize Professional (develop rich, photo quality content)
MySolidWorks Professional (your connection to everything SOLIDWORKS)
eDrawings® Professional (Viewing and publishing application)
SolidWorks for Military Veterans
Quoted from toyotaboy:Right.. but you need to be a veteran (or at least know someone that can provide the paperwork to buy one)
Well I hope someone can find it useful.
Quoted from Jazman:ABSOLUTELY! I think it is awesome that they do that. Our company uses that product professionally and it's around $8K to start... not sure how much that package would be...
I sent in my info. They said it takes up to two business days.
3 months later
Quoted from pb456:Made a little light 'blank' to go in the playfield when you're installing yoppsicles or similar, removing #44 sockets.
Printed with white PLA, fits ok, not too snug. I would use them underneath the plastics for slingshots and the like. Works fine with warm white led and white PLA.[quoted image]
Would like to see a pic installed if you don't mind. Thanks
Quoted from pb456:Really simple thingy;[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ah so you are using yopp sicles for your GI? SImilar to how Jersey Jack has done with their clear domed plastic tower pieces. Interesting. Does it light up pretty well?
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