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Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:I'll stick some thin adhesive-backed foam on the bottom for placing on glass and likely try one in TPU next.
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I also printed it, I taped mine to the coinbox, need to print them now in Silver for a better match. Maybe tape it to the inside of the coindoor.
20211008_085514 (resized).jpgQuoted from OzPaul:Purchased the Creality 10S Pro V2 six months ago on special for around US$400.
Been a great workhorse and has all the extras included, like BL Touch, metal drives, thermal runaway etc.
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Having a break from pinball for a while, so started printing out a full size R2D2.
About 18KG PLA+, 4KG ABS, 1KG TPU and around 2,000+ print hrs later, I can finally get to the painting and installing motor drives stage.
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Some prints were 40+hrs, so occasionally watched on my phone from work on a cheap security camera pointing at the bed and using a Wi-Fi power adaptor to kill power if a nozzle blockage, or if a print gets knocked over which happened a couple of times.
Electric heater used whilst I was home to bring room temperature up to 30C (86F) for ABS only.
If anyone else is interested, scroll down this Mr Baddeley’s Patreon page for his free Onedrive link to the R2D2 STLs. Become a member and you have access to other droids, such as BB8.
https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
I really do need to get back to pinball though
Nice job!
Quoted from gdonovan:Automotive.
A friend of mine prints in ABS all the time for his auto accessory business. He doesn't even prep the files, just prints them out after some outside guy has sliced the files.
If he can print regularly with ABS then I should be able to do so as well. He prints on glass with tinfoil and gluestick, same printer.
I's prefer to print with ABS as it is has more impact resistance, higher melting temp and doesn't degrade over time as PLA eventually will.
Have a another print going this morning, should know in 2 hours if successful, put a brim on it this time and upped the temps. The enclosure temp is at a steady 110F so I think that is more than warm enough. Also slowed down the print of the initial layers to try and get it to stick.
I know about that PLA can distort under direct sunlight, I made a mistake to dry some PLA prints in direct sunlight and they shrinked. But degrading PLA over time, what time are we talking about? I understand that in Automotive ABS is more used. For pinball related items, mods, replacements are we talking about degrading times within 10-15 years?
Quoted from parsonsaj:Has anyone created a shroud for the camera on JJP games when the full backglass LED strips are installed? I just did this on my GnR and while the camera works fine with all the light bleed, it is annoying to actually be able to SEE the camera while playing. Seems like a perfect application for a 3D printed part that would go around the camera cutout in the backglass to block the light from the LED strips across the bottom of the monitor
nice idea. Will look into that.
found this one on thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628012
do not see directly how this is used. Will print it and test it.
Quoted from PeterG:found this one on thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628012
do not see directly how this is used. Will print it and test it.
Printed and look great
16370851093796156740258798993084 (resized).jpgQuoted from Meri-cah:Just ordered the creality 5 pro. My son, 7 yrs old, asked for one for Xmas. Haha! This one will be for the BOTH of us. But I’ve never used one before. Always been interested and very well versed in computers and CAD. Looking forward to making some mods. Best place to find stuff is “thingiverse”??
I have an Ender 5 Pro, works great. There are some adjustments to print for the printer itself. Check thingiverse for that. I printed a cable support, box for around the display, extruder wheel and additional bed support. I also upgraded the board to the more sillent one, but you can always do that later. So do the setup on youtube there are enough videos to help you. The bed levveling video just a page ago was also very helpful. I use a paper that is folded and later only the paper. Start easy with some small prints and not be tempted to print a full scale Mando Helmet the first run
Quoted from ChrisBardon:Neat-did you just print and glue to a blank shooter rod, or make something that can go overtop of the existing end?
Printed and used a blank rod. Used epoxy glue. The model is on thingiverse. It is actually a draft handle for beer.
I really like the tree support option, works great and is easy to remove. That lightning infill I need to check out.
I have an ender 5. After some setup issues it now works flawless. Very nice printer but has some learning curve. But do not be affraid there are a lot of youtube video's and support pages to be found.
Talking about Arduino, who has some experience with delays on Arduino. Try to code a topper where I use a light from the playfield. When te light is solid it should activate my servo (i have that code ready). But once it is like in attract mode the ligth just goes on and off and my servo should not react to this. So it only should react after a second when the light is solid lit. Who can help me on that part of code?
Quoted from Lounge:Are you catching the ‘attract mode’ signal and disabling the servo in attract mode or just basing your logic on the length of time your light is solid??
I catch the led light of the mode. Which in attract modes just flickers, while in game it is off untill the mode is played. Then it is lit solid. I only want it to activate if it is lit solid. Also looked at another light that would not be on in attract mode but there is none, all lights are on. So cannot do an if this and this then that statement.
So I would like it not to trigger it while flickering and only trigger it while lit solid for e.g. 1 or 2 seconds delay but that would be the variable to tweak for me.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I like it when there are multiple solutions to a problem. I will check both, I have a pot meter on my lightsensor so will try that first and will also investigate the signal from a coil/upkicker and flippers.
Quoted from Ashram56:On the coil strategy, I strongly advise to use an opto, and not a voltage divider. That way you have total isolation, and no risk of frying the Arduino.
Also, when a coil activate, the current draw is so high that the capacitor just after the rectifier gets discharged very quickly, so the coil voltage actually drops significantly (I have scope measurements for this somewhere), which means you will likely go below TTL level on the input if you're using a voltage divider, thus triggering the Arduino into thinking voltage is off. This does not last for more than a few ms (about 20ms on top of my head), but that could induce unwanted effects.
Using an opto, as long as coil voltage is higher than the minimum opto threshold, you will always get a solid output from the opto into the arduino
Otherwise, SW wise, what you're looking for is equivalent to a debouncer: here's a debouncer code, you can probably expand by using three signal read and adjust duration based on light strobe frequency: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BuiltInExamples/Debounce
Thanks for that, I will start with a software solution. Since that will not add any difficulty to the hardware build etc. The debounce looks nice, I am going to figure that out. Thanks!
Yes bed temp needs to be correct, preheat your bed, that helps with mine. I also use adhesive spray.
most of the time it is not the printer but the print settings and slicer settings that make the print great. I have an Ender 5 Pro and works fine. Great prints. One thing i would like to upgrade is Octoprint so I can send files to the printer via Wifi and would like a direct extruder to print more types of filament. Rest is fine with this printer.
Quoted from prentice:Is tinkercad a good place to start learning simple modeling? I’d like to replace the plastic top of the returns in my Alien. Seems like a not too difficult starting model with simple shapes.
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what would you like to replace it with? 3d printing is not for printing clear plastics. And such a plastic will be multiple prints since the base of most of these printers will not fit the total plastic. If you just want to add some detail with 3d elements then tinkercad will be great.
Quoted from gorgar007:Does your plunger suck?
So I'm making these Pindefender protectors and it seems a small percentage of buyers experience plunger issues after installing. Plunger is too weak or seems to rattle around too frequently. The current theory is that since the protector raises the ball up a few millimeters, it also pushes it forward a bit due to the design of Stern's auto-plunger and the manual plunger can no longer make a solid impact. (more instructions here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1SvL_vl5BUNhT2pGlPR1mio4MoLIepGK8CUXT5bKNJPE/edit?usp=sharing)
So I printed up these plunger pucks - just a 9mmx3mm disc. 100% infill. They install into the shooter rubber tip, making the shooter a little longer without any major surgery.
My Avengers IQ has plunger issues with or without a protector. I can't full plunge more than 20% of the time. Using this plunger puck it's almost 100% as long as I get a smooth plunge. I haven't tracked this, but is this pretty common in new games?
I would gladly share the STL but I'm sure everyone in here can make a puck in their sleep.
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didi the same with my GNR game. Works perfect. I made those myself with tinkercad. You can always share stuff on Thingiverse.
Quoted from prentice:Yeah just 3d stuff, I see MezelMods has a great mod for this but I’m wondering if I might be able to make the simple shapes myself. we shall see![quoted image]
Oh that looks nice. Well that will be some work. But the set is $100. So worth the try.
Quoted from prentice:I’m making some progress as a newbie modeling. I’ve got the dimensions dialed in pretty well, but will soon need to figure out some of the curves.
Question: What beginner friendly tool might I use (export to?) after I’ve modeled the geometric shapes here, in order to do divots, dents, broken segments and so on? I have Nomad Sculpt on iPad but wonder if I’d be able to import there or if it’s even the best tool for me to learn for that purpose. Any recs?
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I looked at those from mezel Mods, they seem very nice but also custom build so wonder if they included those dents and scratches in the design or apply them afterwards. Also since it is a longer item I would suggest making modular items that you can connect/or just glue together afterwards. That will enusre less failure and speed up printing time.
Quoted from prentice:Anyone modeled Stern speaker brackets for 5.25” flush mount speakers (like Kickers)?
Not the adapter, but the whole speaker plate. I’ve only seen these for the non-flush speakers.
I did share one on Thingiverse. But you need to drill the nuts and add them yourself.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5208804
I make my own shooter rods, did guardians and GNR the bullit, easy to do, just find a good model, print is drill it and glue it with epoxy glue. Then the painting etc is just fun to do. There are many great models to find, some of these are shift knobs that can de scaled. Standard shooter rods are cheap and this makes the hobby affordable.
20220112_233022 (resized).jpgI did build myself an Elvira topper. Most is 3d printed. Later I added lights in the eyes,the skeleton with moving eyes and some lightning effects with arduino. Also been busy with a Ghostbusters topper. Still need to do the electrics for that......need more time.......
20201221_185818 (resized).jpg20210629_234122 (resized).jpg20220208_215438 (resized).jpgQuoted from Luckydogg420:This was my most recent project. A Ghostbusters sign for the game room. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5387694 I think whenever you print a light up sign the infill should be 100%, and if I print this again I will make the ghost out of glow in the dark filament. The light is just a led strip along the inside edge
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hm, maybe you could difuse the light a bit, use some layers of baking paper for instance. I do not know if 100% infill would give a nice effect. I think you will see a lot of lines.
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