Is everyone else having the rainbow light board lock up? I play and it locks up, reboot and it works again until rainbow is spelled, then decides it no longer wants to work.
Is everyone else having the rainbow light board lock up? I play and it locks up, reboot and it works again until rainbow is spelled, then decides it no longer wants to work.
Quoted from tonycip:your right after looking into it more thats input voltage , funny no one at the company thought of that, not even there enginer. I just thought it would regulate better . I guess I was just expecting to much from the thing.. for 48$ you cant complain. but if I have a device that was intended for 120V,
after further review. I see that most devices are designed around 115V +- 10% so that would be 103Vmin and the apc starts out at 110V +- 6% which would be 103Vmin.
If you want something to hold a steady output voltage, you need to be looking at the $300+ range.
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:If you want something to hold a steady output voltage, you need to be looking at the $300+ range.
Agreed, but I still think the switch must not be working right, when it’s in the 120 position it should regulate starting at 120V. The co thinks the same and there sending me another one. I would still like someone to please measure there’s and see if there getting 120V out of theirs thanks
Quoted from TaylorVA:Try reseating connectors. just the Rainbow inserts lock on?
Yep just a problem with the rainbow inserts only. I think its software related as it works fine until you spell rainbow. After rainbow is spelled, it then locks on and acts a different way each time
well I'm still having the f'ing flashing thing. The connector could be anywhere that I can tell including under the upper castle playfield. PITA.
I just lost my second LED board. Mine has the 5V boards.
Does anyone know how much the 7V LED boards cost? Is it feasible to just replace all 5V boards with 7s? Would that make the game pretty bulletproof?
Quoted from TaylorVA:well I'm still having the f'ing flashing thing. The connector could be anywhere that I can tell including under the upper castle playfield. PITA.
Try tapping on the playfield in various areas and find the loose connector.
Quoted from Crash:Try tapping on the playfield in various areas and find the loose connector.
I have. I booted up and first game today I had a bunch of really bright lights and then it settled down on its own. During gameplay I didn't have an issue. Holy schmoly do I love me my B/W games. Technology is great but crippling when you don't know how to work on it.
Quoted from Russell:I just lost my second LED board. Mine has the 5V boards.
Does anyone know how much the 7V LED boards cost? Is it feasible to just replace all 5V boards with 7s? Would that make the game pretty bulletproof?
They will replace them for free. You need to open a ticket through the JJP support website. They will want your games serial number.
I haven't been charged anything for shipping to me.
However, I am expected to pay the shipping to return the broken boards. I'm waiting until the final fix is implemented and verified, then I'll return all the broken stuff in one package.
Glad to hear it. I would feel much more confident about my game going forward if I had the 7v boards.
Quoted from Crash:I heard they charge for shipping though.
standard ground shipping is free, you only have to pay if you want something shipped faster. (i got my new power board that way as i was expecting ppl over to play it this weekend)
sounds like a few people got the new boards to finally fix this issue for good! I have not had any problems at all but mine was manufactured 7 to 8 months ago. Can we hear from those who have received how they are working? Perhaps updates as you play more and more as well
Mine are still going strong as well. Hoping this fixed the issue for good for all of us experiencing the problem.
Quoted from markmon:I'm not sure what you see, but I just see regular led boards in those images.
The original small GI boards have all three connector jacks in line. You can see one of the jacks is now offset. It looks like that jack is on the small daughter board and that the daughter board ties into the place of the original jack.
anybody still waiting for replacement boards - I have been waiting since I opened the ticket on 3/31. thanks ed
Quoted from markmon:I'm not sure what you see, but I just see regular led boards in those images.
sounds like those with issues have had none since installing. Stress tests galore no lock ups. Looks like they have the cure! Must be a lot of happy owners tonight!
they told us it is not nec. to replace all boards
only where the freeze starts, this should be replaced
in my case i replaced hounted and tinmann ( this boards are mutli led boards)
lets see what happens the next week.
After installing all the boards pictured above the game does still lock up (rarely) but is able to recover
Not my best game but clearly shows that the game locks up at 4:58ish but recovers at 5:49
too bad!
which ones do you have replaced?
tinmann?
haounted? hounted Looks like a central board to me
i have never seen that it recovers before
I've never seen it recover before, it usually needs to be rebooted before returning to normal.
I've replaced a total of 6 of the newer (anti-locking) LED boards including:
#16 Crystal Ball, Low GI
#9 - Winkie Guard, Right GI
W2 - Left inlane Rainbow Hurry
#23 - TOTO Rollover
#22 - TOTO Rollover
#28 - The Tim Man Rollover
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Wow, their first engineer really screwed the pooch.
The good news is that JJP has been responsive to me whenever any boards have issues.
Quoted from B9:The good news is that JJP has been responsive to me whenever any boards have issues.
Definitely only take my post as a slight against their first engineer, not JJP.
By all accounts, JJP is spending the money and time to correct the mistake.
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Definitely only take my post as a slight against their first engineer
I'm OK with failure, especially if it involves something new. Sure you don't want it to happen, yes it can be frustrating but its easy to judge from the sidelines.
I'd love to be able to see what the IC on those daughter boards is. My best guess is that they are monitoring LED activity to detect a lockup, then resetting the downstream LED controllers.
If this is their "solution", I'd really like to at least see that daughter board merged into the main LED board to eliminate the additional connector and the jumper wire that you can see from between the two boards.
Quoted from herg:I'd love to be able to see what the IC on those daughter boards is. My best guess is that they are monitoring LED activity to detect a lockup, then resetting the downstream LED controllers.
No. I'll let Eric explain though, since it's his.
If this is their "solution", I'd really like to at least see that daughter board merged into the main LED board to eliminate the additional connector and the jumper wire that you can see from between the two boards.
It is. All new boards will have the new circuit. This "daughter board" is a retrofit for 5V boards (and 7.5V boards if needed, but probably not needed).
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
Quoted from kapsreiter:in my case i replaced hounted and tinmann ( this boards are mutli led boards)
Are these the same, interchangeable boards?
Quoted from wcbrandes:sounds like those with issues have had none since installing. Stress tests galore no lock ups. Looks like they have the cure! Must be a lot of happy owners tonight!
Quoted from B9:After installing all the boards pictured above the game does still lock up (rarely) but is able to recover.... game locks up at 4:58ish but recovers at 5:49
Well, that "cure" didn't last long (2 posts later)
Quoted from Borygard:No. I'll let Eric explain though, since it's his.
I'm curious to hear more about the daughterboard as well, purely curiosity though.
at my game the changed boards are not freeze again
but boards later in the data line
so the fix works, but it Looks like at some machines you have to swap more boards in others less
Quoted from kapsreiter:so the fix works, but it Looks like at some machines you have to swap more boards in others less
I agree that the "fix" works because there's been measurable improvement after the addition of six new style boards my game no longer freezes on every single game. However, I still do get lockups from time to time and would like to know how to identify the offending board. Does anyone know?
if the Problem starts
go into test menue and check where it starts
at my machine it starts at a Point in the line and all behind
check the manual at C-50 where you can see the diagram of the cables
with the new 3 boards the Point is now more behind in the line
sorry that is the only logic for me
Quoted from lowepg:Well, that "cure" didn't last long (2 posts later)
This is a fix and they do work, sounds like some haven't identified the culprit as of yet. Lets just wait and see but the ones that have identified the "bad" boards are not experiencing any further problems. So say these people on the google group.
So, from what you guys are saying, and looking at B9's video, it looks like his #19 is still working (kinda tough to tell), but W1 locked up. W1 would be the one that needed replacing in this case?
Ok, I watched the video another 10 times or so, and decided #19 is locked as well. Either #15 or #16? Imagine trying to do this without a video!
So, try swapping the new board at #23 with the old one at #16 to see if the next lock up takes out less of the LEDs?
Quoted from herg:Ok, I watched the video another 10 times or so, and decided #19 is locked as well. Either #15 or #16? Imagine trying to do this without a video!
So, try swapping the new board at #23 with the old one at #16 to see if the next lock up takes out less of the LEDs?
Thanks for taking the time and I'll give your suggestion a try and post back the results
Quoted from herg:Ok, I watched the video another 10 times or so, and decided #19 is locked as well. Either #15 or #16? Imagine trying to do this without a video!
So, try swapping the new board at #23 with the old one at #16 to see if the next lock up takes out less of the LEDs?
#16 is one of the new boards that I put in already
So, I started systematically using one of the updated Toto single LED boards to test each and every single board and about halfway through the process another board went dead. It was the #13 board and I wired in the updated board and I was able to play approximately 6 games without any issues. The only side effect that I can see is the number "10" light in the YBR is extremely bright compared to all the other lights. Once I take a video, I'll post it.
I remember talking to someone that had a bright board problem and it turned out that bright one was defective.
Quoted from DCFAN:Here are some pictures that were posted on the JJP WOZ google group. They look to have a little daughter board attached to the main board.
Do you have a foosball man doing a quality check on your WoZ board?
Quoted from altan:Do you have a foosball man doing a quality check on your WoZ board?
My Foosball guys do all the QC work
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