(Topic ID: 75868)
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Atlanta, GA
I have a question about the bell. The bell in my game sounds one ”ding” during gameplay when you hit something in the game that activates the bell (multiball, large mystery bonus, etc). I believe the bell is supposed to sound a full ring?
In coil test mode, the bell sounds one “ding” like it does in game. The wiring looks good. Any suggestions?
03059818-CE14-4373-B3FB-92062683521C (resized).jpeg2E986929-1E5D-409F-AD0B-51D595B33C47 (resized).jpegQuoted from zacaj:That switch should be opening when the striker hits the bell to cut power and let the coil release
That was it, the left switch leaf needed to be adjusted back a little so the contacts are just barely touching. The left contact had too much pressure on the right contact so the switch wasn’t opening fully. Love that ringing bell! Thanks!!
I adjusted the left leaf back so the contact still stays closed, but loose enough that it can open fully. I also cleaned the contacts. After I adjusted it, in coil test mode I could see the spark between the contacts.
In coil test it just does a single ding but in game play it fully rings.
9C429B1E-484D-4C61-8C7F-234CCA5EFAB5 (resized).jpegQuoted from Budman:So you loosened the switch at the base and still kept it as a closed switch ?
Yeah other pics I’ve seen show it’s nc, so I believe it is. The contacts on mine were just pressed against each other too hard. This pic shows what it looks like now and it’s working correctly.
DA1D169E-73B9-4777-8F5A-369A581B763F (resized).jpeg 2 months later
When I began clearing the cabinet on my Taxi for restoration, I was under the impression that the pf had molex quick disconnects like High Speed. I found that it does not and that the 3 harnesses that come from the pf (switches, lamps and solenoids) break out into about 10 direct connections to various boards in the head. There is also a molex connector for the cabinet wiring harness that goes to the coin door, cab switches, bell etc.
It's very tedious, but I'm currently in the process of making molex quick disconnects for the pf so I can just pop a few plugs and pull the pf out whenever I want to without having to deal with all the pcb connections in the head. I'm guessing the change from quick disconnects to direct pcb connection was a labor/parts cost saving measure at Williams.
Yeah, it is a serious pia to do that many crimps, but once I get started and get on a roll it takes me about 2 1/2 hrs to finish one.
I use the standard Amazon ratcheting crimpers and automatic wire strippers. They give me clean, consistent crimps. Also important to get the right molex pins for the wire size.
A3837FEB-FBA5-4471-89D4-243F604E0766 (resized).jpeg47DCF513-C42A-4530-B9D6-F0053AB553C6 (resized).jpegQuoted from Toine79:Keep us in touch how this works. Thanks
Will do! Painting the cab is next, but I have to wait for the humidity to go down. I’m in the southeast so that may take awhile...
In the meantime I’ll be working on the new cabinet door.
50FBF7FE-A35A-4F0A-8163-29AE2A2F1392 (resized).jpegF346BD55-EBAE-45D3-BFE5-DD307DB10500 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:What color are you going to paint the cabinet? Black would normally be a good choice but Radcals are on the translucent side. I'm fearful the black would show through. You might have to go yellow and paint the areas that are suppose to be back separately. I would recommend doing it an oil based paint. Decals stick way better on oil based paint in my opinion. I no longer have my Taxi but plan to put Radcals on my BOP so I'm anxious for an update on your project.
I'm going to paint the cabinet the same color as the radcals (except the front/inside of the head). I'm going to take one of the radcals to the paint store and get them to color match it. I have an HVLP setup and will see what the guys at the store suggest.
If you haven't seen it already, there's a pretty thorough YouTube video of a guy installing radcals on Taxi:
Quoted from Barr993:I just finished my Taxi paint and decals and struggled with HVLP and colors along the way so maybe my story will help:
I backed into HVLP due to Vid's cabinet guide thread recommending Kilz oil based primer but I couldn't roll that well so went to HVLP and thinned the primer with naphtha (per Vid) 4 : 1 to get it to flow which worked out well.
For color, started with the Behr 3300 color recomendation in this thread and elsewhere. Took the color code to Home Depot but they couldn't decipher it. Went back with a piece of the new decals to scan and mix. Got home and knew I'd have trouble with spraying because the 3300 was so thick. Thinned out with water to 20% which is twice the recommended amount, still too thick, tried to spray with bad results and it was tacky after days. The excess water was probably affecting the chemical reaction.
Then went to Sherwin Williams for oil based cabinet paint and HVLP recommendation. They had no one with HVLP experience but scanned the decal and mixed the paint which is only available in gloss. Sprayed the cab (again 4 : 1 naphtha), went on good but the color was not right. Apparently the scanner was picking up mostly yellow and not the red which is very fine specs on the decals. Back to the store, scan and mix, color didn't look right in the store so the rep custom mixed another adding more red. It turned out to be a close match and complimentary to decals.
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Man, that looks really good! Did you clear coat over it, or it that just the gloss of the paint?
Thanks for posting all of that information, it will definitely help me out.
Quoted from Barr993:Thanks! Lots of sand, spray, epoxy, bondo, sand, spray, rinse and repeat. That is the gloss of the paint, no clear.
How much primer and paint did you end up needing to spray the whole cab?
Quoted from Barr993:1 qt of each should be good. I used 2 of each but that was due to my issues.
Btw this was with the $10 Harbor Freight gun that has a 1.4 tip.
Great job with the purple HF gun! I still can’t figure out how they make any profit on that thing ha ha
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Bellagio... are you going to recess the head bolts before your RadCal installation?
I think I'm going too. However, I'm still on the fence bcuz, I kinda like the traditional look. With that said... the traditional look is thrown out the window with gloss / shiny RadCals
I was thinking about that too. I will most likely leave the bolts exposed like original.
Cabinet door is finished. New Xpin display, all new lamp and flasher sockets, and relay board replaced with GI-OCD board.
0D07E3DC-23A3-41C0-8239-975B26933208 (resized).jpegBB601A9F-09EC-4A7D-BF85-D31127B09CA6 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Going from modern games like
Potc and dialed in to taxi is an interesting experience . I actually love those mechanical sounds it makes it’s awesome
I’ve bounced around from the older games to modern machines too. I think it’s really interesting to see how the construction of the machines has evolved over the years, but still use a lot of the same basic principles from the past.
Even looking at just a few years like 1986-1988 you can see manufacturing changes. Some seem to be for better reliability and some are obviously just for cost reduction.
2 weeks later
First siderail removed.
Fortunately I found a thread that mentioned using a heat gun on the rail to soften the tape while you work it with a metal putty knife. That is definitely the best trick to getting the rail off undamaged. I stuck a couple of plastic putty knives under the rail while I was working to keep the tape from re-adhering to the rail.
FA6D12FA-669D-4997-8D26-50CDBCC10922 (resized).jpeg925CC08A-F2FC-4EA8-85AC-44F53C2B578C (resized).jpegA54A7F48-FD17-4E80-9E93-4D3623F4B3E2 (resized).jpegQuoted from Streetkid:NEED SOME TAXI HELP!!!
Hey guys! I am new to this taxi thread but recently acquired a Taxi that has absolutely been hacked
on the lower board. I have bought a replacement board from rotten dog,
and i would love some pictures of the connectors that are hot wired on my old board and any advice
one might give on redoing these taxi connectors? J 6 and J7 are the connectors that are hot wired to the old board,
and obviously things arent working on the playfield, but it looks mostly to be just lights. (attached are the pictures)
Much appreciated,
humbly,
streetkid
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Once you have your new interconnect board in place, I would clip those hacked wires from the old board, re-pin them with trifurcons and put them into .156 housings for the new board.
J6 is a pain because it has looping wires.
7247B6F2-4F69-46B6-A066-1FB79A7717BD (resized).jpegA0AD6470-1EA2-4E49-B9FC-0B266DC4B978 (resized).jpegQuoted from Streetkid:Wow!
Looks like you got a brand new rotten dog board before, and maybe had a similar issue!
My board is made by Gulf Pinball, purchased from Marco's. I replaced my old board since it had some burnt and melted connectors. It wasn't terrible, but since I'm doing a full restoration I prefer to use new parts where I can.
Quoted from Streetkid:The J7 looks straight forward, on the J6, do the yellow wires have to be in a certain order?
Both Striped yellows to the bottom, and both solid to the top?
Yes the wires do need to be connected to the correct pins. It appears in your case that on J6 the hacker put each wire between 2 pins and then used a blob of solder to connect the wire to both pins to compensate for the looping wires. If everything on your machine is working correctly then at least the hacker attached the wires to the correct pins. You'll just need to note which pin each wire is connected to (J6-1, J6-2, etc). For your new board you'll need to build a .156 connector, either IDC or crimp & stuff. The looping wires make the crimp & stuff like I have a little tricky because you'll need to crimp 2 wires into 1 pin or do a mid-wire insulation removal and make a "Y" connection.
This website has good pics and explanation:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Headers.2C_Housings.2C_and_Crimping
1 week later
Does anyone else have this second spring on their catapult mech? It’s not in the manual and I don’t see it in stock pics of the mech.
Maybe an op added it at some point to tone down the catapult power?
34964D8C-649F-4BBA-BFDB-5834B9E2258B (resized).jpeg713E1201-B8F9-4ABF-AD5A-292D1BFC6A1B (resized).jpegIt's funny that you seem to have all the same problems I started out with!
When I bought my game, I noticed something was missing under the pf in the lower right corner. The previous owner said that he wasn't sure what it was, but that everything was working fine without it. After getting it home I figured out that it was the relay board and that it controls GI flashing. My GI was hacked permanently on. I'm guessing the board burned up like yours or an op scavenged it.
After doing some research, I found that they are pretty much impossible to find. @barr993's suggestion will work just fine. Another option is the GI-OCD board made by @herg. He's a really knowledgeable guy and helped me through my hacked mess.
IMG_3380 (resized).JPGIMG_3379 (resized).JPGIMG_3381 (resized).JPGIMG_3385 (resized).JPGIMG_3450 (resized).JPGQuoted from Leeb18509:You can get these G.I. relay boards at Great Lakes modular.
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I found that site during my search. They are no longer in business, but leave the site up for some reason.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:I personally think Taxi looks really good with black legs, rails and lockdown bar. I’m not normally one for powder coat but like that combo
I agree. I’m usually not a fan of powder coat but I’m doing all black powder coat armor on my Taxi restoration. I really like chrome, but black just looks like it belongs on this game.
1 week later
Quoted from shlockdoc:Just set up a taxi and I noticed the three jet bumpers, center targets and left sling are not lighting up. I checked all the connections and all seems good. I did not see the jet bumpers in the light matrix. Are these considered GI? Any advice which connector to focus on? TIA.
I had a lot of GI issues to track down and fix. Basically, everything playfield GI related is the yellow, purple, wht/pur and wht/yel wires. They run between J7 and J9 on the interconnect board, lamps near Drac and “B” lane, and the relay board in the lower right corner of the pf.
I would start by checking the pins at J7 and J9 on the interconnect board and the IDC connectors coming from the playfield as both commonly have heat damage. I’d also check voltage on the board’s pins to make sure power is correct.
If all is good there, I’d check continuity from the IDC connectors through the connections mentioned above to verify that there are no broken wires.
Good luck in the hunt, it can be very frustrating!
Quoted from shlockdoc:After tracing and dealing and your advice turns out it was “just a fuse” ha. Happy it was simple, should have checked that first. Fixed and thanks for the advice.
That’s funny! I guess that’s why they say when fixing pins always start with the simplest possible solution first!
1 month later
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Nothing like fresh wood!
Yeah it’s a nice upgrade from the stock ones, this one is especially bad.
9804D9E9-3757-4547-B3D6-8D1C72982792 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mk1Mod0:TIA - I have broken my wiring down to its separate sections because there was so much to repair/replace it got to be overwhelming to do it in place in the machine. I have completely redone the transformer to backbox sections and am now fixing the interconnect to backbox GI and flashers. Specifically the run from 2J7 to the relay on the insert panel. I have the wires to the bulbs no problem, but I know at least two wires go to the relay and then wires go from the relay to bulbs? Not positive since it was so hacked up what is supposed to go where. Any knowledge is helpful, pictures are better.
Shawn
Here are a couple of pics of those areas taken before my game was torn down, hope they help
IMG_3282 (resized).JPGIMG_3310 (resized).JPGQuoted from Mk1Mod0:Perfect. The shot of 2J7 confirms what is on the schematic. I dont suppose you know which pair of brown and green wires is going into the relay and which ones are going out? (One pair has come in from the interconnect board and the other pair are going out to one or more flashers, I assume.) The plugged pair on the left of the board are intact so there is no worry there.
Thanks for the pics!!
Sorry my game is in a bunch of boxes right now during restoration. Just from looking at pics, it appears that the left pair of grn/brn go to lamps and the right pair of wires go to the IC board. I can't verify that though.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:So as it turns out, this plug is for special solenoid switches. Its 1J18 at the top right of the CPU. I have the positions of the white, orange/black and orange/brown. I need to know what position the orange/green should be in. The schematic is not like the plug. On the schematic it shows position six to be the key but the key is at position one and the white wire is at six. Help?[quoted image]
Here you go. Your wiring is coming along great!
98176AB1-528D-4B83-BF4B-12C6E40FC380 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Continuing saga of repair... So as I am replacing pop bumper coils I decide I should examine the topside as well. No surprise we need some wholesale replacement. The question I have is this. Are the bumper bodies actually held down by wood screws? Seriously! I like the Bally system where there is a threaded plate under the play field that receives machine threaded screws that hold the whole assembly down. Did B/W just throw that away? And if so, what is the proper screw? Because I have 3 different pairs of screws holding down my 3 pop bumpers. Big ol' drywall screws, a short pair of round top phillips head wood screws and a pair of flat topped flat head screws. Yikes!!
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There should be 3 types of screws (from bottom to top):
These hold the coil bracket under the pf (they are countersunk into the top of the pf):
https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-bracket-mounting-screws-fin-screws.html
These hold the pop bumper body to the base:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-body-screws.html
These hold the cap to the body:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-cap-screws.html
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Your topper is way better than mine ;/
Yeah it’s in good shape for it’s age. I have a new one on the way for my restoration but this one could probably be spray painted white, get a new decal and look pretty nice.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I busted a couple of the mounting holes on mine when it hit the beam in my basement (didn't realize it was too tall to move past when I started pulling the machine forward on the table cart). I'm going to have to just bite the bullet and spend the $100 for a new one at some point.
I feel you, the $100 for a damn piece of plastic was hard to swallow
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I figure I'll do it when I'm willing to try touching up/repainting the front of the cab. The rest of my cab is CHERRY but the front...eh. I need to make the front look nice, replace the topper, pull mylar (for whatever reason this makes me super nervous), try to clean up discoloration--assuming that's even possible--and then touch up/clear. Probably jet black powdercoat if I'm going that far, too, I guess. Right now I'm just playing it, but someday I'd like to finish it 'right'.
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Maybe hardtop? The black powdercoat looks great, highly recommend!
I received my CPR Taxi backglass last week. Overall it looks good, they did a very nice job on the mirror effects. I think Pinbot looks better on the CPR, his colors are more vibrant. Drac looks about the same to me.
The not so good is that Marilyn and Gorbie are too pale/washed out so they lose some facial detail compared to the original. Santa looks about the same except his raised hand is washed out. The green color of the taxi driver’s camo jacket is also a little off.
The reasons for replacing are that my backglass has some type of separation in the lower part (looks like maybe moisture got between the glass and the art?) and also I got rid of the mirror block on my new lightboard door so I need the mirror on the backglass.
Thought I’d post this on here in case anyone else is thinking of getting one and wanted a comparison. They are sorted original first, CPR second.
208AC66E-E67C-4631-AEC6-83114197AD75 (resized).jpeg9E1C2604-A798-477D-8EB6-8E5F13310AC2 (resized).jpeg05E98BA6-3209-4413-A355-915252A3D50D (resized).jpegE6835138-B403-4A35-86FC-92ADB8A5C44D (resized).jpeg5901FB4D-7AA0-43D2-AD82-34B76725C2E4 (resized).jpegEA8815D4-A93C-4332-934D-C405E39B0FE9 (resized).jpeg3745CF56-0811-43D6-8425-7EDA3AB21149 (resized).jpegE92EE23C-8037-4EF7-B436-C5AB7668277F (resized).jpeg99FA0445-A6D8-487F-99A1-939E69187C60 (resized).jpeg53608E1D-8B28-404D-9370-3896E41AE386 (resized).jpegF4E88255-875E-4124-9948-DD15A2484548 (resized).jpeg681B8B57-AA6D-4A89-AAEA-F9FB2E1B7403 (resized).jpeg 3 months later
If anyone is interested, I'm starting the Taxi portion of my restoration thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-amp-taxi-80s-brothers-rebuilt/page/3#post-6218400
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:I see the problem.
Yellow is impossible to match!
I think it always has been.
When I get my decals, I will most likely have paint mixed up.
I hate to do this as, way down the road, touch up paint may be hard to get unless custom mixed.
Still though, with fading, I guess its the only way.
Having them scan the decal and match the paint is probably your best bet. I’ve read that some paint stores can even make a custom rattle can if you don’t want to use an HVLP setup.
I used Radcals but they won’t scan. I ended up having to play with the paint mixture to get it right.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Picture with it lit.
I love the pinbot mirror treatment and marilyns earrings in mirror.
Ill redo the LEDs in the backbox better, down the road.
For now, i rrally like the CPR glass!
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I like mine too, I think overall CPR did a pretty good job with it. I like the mirroring a lot, but I do wish the colors were a little more vibrant.
Here's a question for everyone- did Williams ever make a real backglass for Taxi, or was it only a translite? I thought my original was an actual backglass but it turned out to be a translite.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Who makes the best, textured (screen printed?) cabinet decal for Taxi?
Most vendors are out of stock?
Maybe consider Radcals? They are easy to install and look great.
For regular decals I would probably just go with whatever licensed set PPS has.
3 months later
Quoted from locksmith:My first modern game over 25 years ago was Taxi. Such a well balanced fun game all around.Played the hell out of it and gave it to my Daughter when I was out of Pinball space.Eventually got in back in bad shape and sold it a year and a half ago. Thanks to Pinfest I scored a custom Taxi.All new parts top to bottom.Pinball Porn at its best. Dialing it in now and love to have one back.
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Beautiful game!
2 months later
Quoted from pinballinreno:I was thinking of going with digital relays from LEDOCD for long term durability.
Thoughts on this? I bought all three of them...
I used them in mine and they work great. Only thing to know going in is that you will have to slightly modify the wiring from original.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Is there a wiring diagram to follow?
http://www.ledocd.com/install_sys11_gi_r2.html
If you need any help with the specific wire colors for Taxi let me know and I can dig up the pics from mine.
1 month later
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:With my ramps torn out... now seems like a good time to upgrade the flashers.
With my HS I needed to read things for LED to work in flashers. Same boat for Taxi??
No, Taxi doesn’t have the warming resistor boards like HS. The issue with led flashers in Taxi is that when you replace all of the flashers with leds, you may see some of them slightly ghost when you press the flipper buttons. I believe Whirlwind has the same issue. It’s not a huge deal, but it’s kind of annoying.
I did some research and read that it’s due to the flashers being on the same circuit as some of the coils. There are a couple of workarounds that people developed involving adding diodes to some of the coils or removing diodes from the aux power board.
For me, I just changed a couple of them back to regular 89 bulbs and it solved the problem.
Quoted from ralphs007:Has anyone ever used this on their Taxi ? I'm trying to figure out how I could use it on my Taxi departure ramp?
Thanks in advance
[quoted image]
Like RonSwanson said, that part of the ramp gets hammered by the catapult. I’ve seen it cracked and repaired on several Taxi machines, including my original.
My repro ramps are definitely thicker than the originals and could probably take it, but I got the protector anyway. This is what it looks like installed:
BF555579-49C4-4C5F-8A72-062F72852DE8 (resized).jpegQuoted from RonSwanson:I also have new ramps and installed the protector just to be safe.
Yeah the repro ramps aren’t cheap so I figured it was worth it.
2 months later
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:Can't remember if this is a system 11 issue, but if I replace the back box flashers with LED's and leave the playfield flashers incandescent will that work or does it need to be all LED's, and does taxi use warming resistors that need to be snipped?
Taxi doesn’t use warming resistors, but there is an issue with System 11c if you switch all flashers to led. You’ll see ghost flashes in some bulbs when you hit the flipper buttons.
You can fix it by using a standard flasher bulb in each affected circuit. That’s the easiest and least intrusive way.
The other option is to remove certain diodes from the aux board and add diodes to some coils.
This is a pretty comprehensive thread on the issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games
1 month later
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:Well, I installed the new XPin displays and unfortunately I think I received a defective display unless I am missing something. All of the middle segments on the lower display and several segments on the slave display do not illuminate. The display has a "segment test" button, and when the button is pressed all of the segments should light up. This does not happen and I'm sure it is not the MPU or ribbon/wire harness since these segments work fine with the old display. Am I missing something? Anything else to try? The links are bad to the PDF instructions on their website but installation is pretty self explanatory unless there is some out of the ordinary quirk with Taxi's display in particular.
I tried creating a support ticket with XPin but receive a "sorry no robots allowed" error when I submit the ticket (tried through phone, Chrome, and FireFox to no avail). Redirects me to http://support.21-electronics.com/ but the parent site will not allow me to register.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Try this email address: [email protected]
They were very helpful when I had issues.
1 week later
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Messed with mine quite a bit tonight. The switch in the bowl seemed to be slowing down the revs quite a bit so I tweaked it. My shooter rod is aligned dead center. I deep cleaned tge spinout bowl and waxed the shooter lane. Still 75k is my max.
I can get more than plenty of revs if I launch the ball by hand after the wireform. But something between shooter rod and wireform is drastically slowing it down. Maybe its time for a slo-mo video to hopefully catch something im not seeing right off hand.
Definitely try slo-mo video. In particular, watch the ball transition from the wireform to the “hallway” before the spinout bowl. If the ball catches a sidewall before entering the spinout bowl, it can drastically reduce the spins.
1 month later
Quoted from StarCow:I don’t know if this is a stupid question but still. I just installed a new display on my taxi (the old one had a faulty middle row so it read Corbic instead if Gorbie . The new one is LED and the very simple installation manual says I can, and should consider to, disconnect the HV fuse (see picture). But how do I know which one it is? Is it the F1 on the Power Supply Board? (I can remove that fuse and everything seems to work still)? Thanks
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I have XPin led displays with a repro Pinball PCB power supply. Don’t know how this compares to an original PS, but here are the fuses I removed.
A9421DCB-9EA8-4646-A18A-588A09FCFA41 (resized).jpeg 2 months later
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Chrome leaves finger and hand prints. Hope you like wiping down your game often.
I’ll second this. I did my High Speed in all chrome and it looks great when polished, but it was expensive and man it’s real pain to keep clean. If I did it again I would probably just go with the standard stainless.
I powder coated my Taxi black and it’s way easier to maintain.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Bumper:Thanks goldpins for the topper PCB, now I have to make a cable to get it connected.
Can someone please make a picture of the connector plugging into the topper PCB, follow the cable to the board and make a picture where plugs in and post it here so I can replicate it?
There is no documentation, I don't know the colors or pinout, so I need clear pictures of both connectors where they are plugged in. Thanks in advance!!
I can't find any pics of the connection to the boards right now, but here is the connector at the topper board.
IMG_3295 (resized).JPGC1-3 (resized).JPG 3 months later
Quoted from Mando:Restoring my taxi and I don’t think the right flipper is correct . Wondering if anyone has a good pics of the flips . Wires etc .[quoted image][quoted image]
Here's a pic of old/new flipper mechs from when I was restoring mine, hope it helps.
IMG_3772 (resized).JPG 1 month later
Quoted from token84:I appreciate both Grumpy and PinballinReno's viewpoints and ordered an Xpin and will contact Grumpy for help as I want to fix the original board as a backup.
Side note - I really liked Pinball PCB/Kahout's board though the XPin saved me a few bucks, good support and had free shipping.
Additionally, the XPin board has one 5A fuse rather than two 7A fuses on the original William's PCB and I asked XPin's Tech support. Here is their response which aligned me to XPin.
"Rest assured that you are covered. There were actually 2 revisions of the D-12246 from Williams, one with a single fuse and one with 2 fuses. When I originally designed the PS I was basing it off of the single fuse version because that is what I had in my original game, back in 2010. A weird customer failure brought the 2nd fuse to my attention when the single failure that would have been caught by the fuse occurred. My next revision of the board will have the 2nd fuse on it but you will be okay. The 7A fuses on my design are WAY OVERKILL because I use a switcher rather than a linear supply design. Reality is that I could take them all the way down to 4A and be perfectly fine. The 7A on the original board designs were because the power supply 5v rail could only operate at about 50% efficiency. My switcher design runs at 92%. Less current required."
I have Xpin displays with Pinball PCB power boards in Taxi and High Speed. They have been working for years. Both are excellent options and both have great customer support. You should be fine with them.
Quoted from joeaf:Hi all, our Taxi is finally due for new ramps. The originals have been great but are cracked and didn’t survive the playfield swap very well.
Any differences these days besides price in the reproductions from Starship, Little Shop of Games or Marco?
I would like to avoid modifications but sounds like ramp thickness will be an issue..
As far as I know, all the repro ramps are the same. They are significantly thicker than the originals.
For those having the issue of the left ramp not sitting level, this is how I dealt with it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-amp-taxi-80s-brothers-rebuilt/page/4#post-6260321
Quoted from The_Great_Man:So is that the only issue with the new ramps - you need to make room for the washers so the ramp sits flat to the playfield? I like the fix you came up with.
It’s been a long time, but as I recall there was only an issue with the left ramp. I believe the repro right ramp was fine as is.
2 months later
Quoted from Joshjowen:Re CPR Mirrored backglass.
I picked up a really nice Taxi with new playfield, plastics, etc. The translite is in really good shape. This is my all time favorite game so it will be staying with me long term and I'm going all out on the rest of it. I'm debating whether to get the CPR back glass. I've seen mixed reviews but it sounds like the newer ones have improved. For those of you that have replaced recently is the mirrored backglass nicer than a great condition OG translite?
Thanks!
I’m very happy with it. The mirroring is very nicely done. It looks great on my game.
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