Thanks for the help. Do you think I should just replace the transistors? If so, any idea of the part number? I can't see to locate it on Marcos

What is supposed to be on the backglass Taxi meter display? I was under the impression that it shows the jack pot value between balls. During play I thought it was supposed to show the bonus racking up slowly, like a taxi fare. Mine stubbornly just shows the jackpot value 100% of the time. I am using updated ROMs bought from someone on Pinside and the game plays normally from what I can tell except for this one aspect.

Correct, it shows the bonus slowly building points in addition to the jackpot.

Which displays do you have? If you have new pin led displays, the jackpot counter won’t show the meter bonus racking up. If you read back on this thread, there is work around to combat this but involves cutting diodes on the board or something like that. Mine has new displays and won’t show it either. Tempted to find an original glass display to have it back

Wow, I was totally unaware of that and yes I have a new led display. I will try to find it in this thread.

Edit: Found the ribbon cable, moved it over and now I have the rolling taxi fare display as it is supposed to be.

Awesome mate. And I didn’t know about the ribbon cable thing!!! What do I need to do.

This post shows the switch to make. I guess the pinscore display can drive two remote regular displays. In this case, the left one displays differently than the right one. I had connected it up like my old display and that causes the display to get locked onto just showing the jackpot.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-club-members-only/page/30#post-4912555

Just joined the club. Based on what I'm reading here I have a feeling that my dead jackpot display can't simply be replaced with this standalone pinscore module. The product I've linked says it replaces AS-2518-58, but the Taxi manual has different part numbers. Am I left with a choice between sourcing replacement glass to solder on my existing slave board vs. a full $269 pinscore replacement? I'll swap displays with a Police Force I have access to just to be sure, but given how well the other displays work I think it's probably blown.

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I`d change it out with X-pin displays. Mine look great

Also agree with X-Pin. Looks great and is plug and play.

After moving taxi today we set the game backup and one of the digits on both displays is missing. We tried reseating the ribbon cables but that did not do anything any thoughts?

Edit: Display is a new Xpin LED display working fine before the move.
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I would guess it is a single pin on the data pins coming from the processor card. Try wiggling each individual wire at the connector at the processor card, both in and out of the interconnect board as well as at the main display end. It is unlikely to be the ribbon cable since the remote display just displays what made it to the main display.

Does anyone else have this second spring on their catapult mech? It’s not in the manual and I don’t see it in stock pics of the mech.

Maybe an op added it at some point to tone down the catapult power?

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No extra spring on mine.

That is definitely a user add on. Do not think that would be a OEM way of increasing spring strength.

Ended up just being a flaky ribbon cable. It took several times reseating it to come back on.

Fixed now.

Great post on the shooter adjustment. I still need to tackle mine, I've just been busy.. And kind of lazy. Unfortunately both taxi and high speed have taken backseats in my lineup lately due to gremlins I'm just too lazy/frustrated to address. But I'm going to revisit this shooter nonsense soon, because my game works great otherwise. I agree, having crappy spinout performance really does sour the gameplay. It's not so much, to me, that the scores themselves are affected (if yours works so well that you can go well past 100k and you hit 1-25k a bunch, you're basically where I am with a crappy plunge). But it really irritates me seeing it not work worth a damn, ESPECIALLY considering it worked great before I rebuilt it and has been crap since. Gah! I will beat you, shooter assembly!

I struggled with mine forever until i did a slo-mo video of the shooting and realized that the extensive wear in the shooter lane was causing the ball to bounce a little laterally and taking the momentum away. Good luck finding your hidden cause!

Can anyone snap a picture of their knocker assembly and location please? Mine is missing and I would like to put it back in.

Is that at the top?

Top left

Yeah top left. Should be the same in your F-14

Yeah I need to record mine too. It almost seems like the shooter rod isn't pushed far enough forward..or something. There's a noticeable GAP when the ball shoots out. The rubber sits behind the metal bracket at rest... Something is way off.

Neither my Space Shuttle nor my High Speed look like this. Shuttle seems to have the rod positioned further back (but it's a much less aggressive launch, so maybe it's less noticeable?) while high speed is further forward.

Taxi at rest
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Taxi with me pushing forward against the spring
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Shuttle at rest
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High speed at rest
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Is the switch holding it up? Mine rest all the way back against the plate

I mean, I don't think so... I've tried manually moving the ball back also it iirc when I do that it's either 1 or ZERO rotations, for whatever reason. With this gap as is I usually get 10, 25, or 50K.

Hard to see but this is what mine looks like. It’s resting on the shooter tip and mine has wrapped around to as much as 25k

When I pull back it goes all the way against the plate
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Doesn't seem to be hung up on the switch, that's just where it settles. No idea why.

If I push the ball down closer to the rod, I get this

Comparing taxi, shuttle, and high speed. Shuttle sure sounds and feels the smoothest. High speed makes a bit more noise but still feels fluid, and the ball sits against the shooter rubber.

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Do you by chance have a new barrel spring on it? I’m pretty sure they are a bit stiffer, larger than originals which could contribute the the plungers resting position.

Yes. I replaced all of the parts except the washers.

If you still have the original barrel spring you might try putting it back on to see if it helps with the plunger position or see if you can sacrifice one from a different game. I know Taxi is one you want all the “oomf” you can get and the new ones are bigger and stiffer taking away some oomf

The ball definitely seems to sit closer to the rod with that old spring back in, but the results aren't a whole lot better than what I got when I pushed the ball closer to the plunger with the new spring. 10k seems to be about the max now.

Hey there!
I have two connectors rectified, and now im on to the next HACK job, lol.
man! i shoulda known.
Looks like i need a new C-11998-1 RELAY board.
Anyone recommend a place to get a new one? Also
can someone take pics of how the wires SHOULD go into the connector, as they hot wired two more into the back and
there was one completely burnt off.
thanks again!
humbly,
Streetkid

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I had pretty much the same issue, got a new relay board here and transferred everything over:

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/electronics/boards/williams/5768-12243-00.html

Will grab a pic tomorrow if someone doesn't have it by then

It's funny that you seem to have all the same problems I started out with!

When I bought my game, I noticed something was missing under the pf in the lower right corner. The previous owner said that he wasn't sure what it was, but that everything was working fine without it. After getting it home I figured out that it was the relay board and that it controls GI flashing. My GI was hacked permanently on. I'm guessing the board burned up like yours or an op scavenged it.

After doing some research, I found that they are pretty much impossible to find. @barr993's suggestion will work just fine. Another option is the GI-OCD board made by @herg. He's a really knowledgeable guy and helped me through my hacked mess.

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You can get these G.I. relay boards at Great Lakes modular.

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I found that site during my search. They are no longer in business, but leave the site up for some reason.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business

WOW. Your relay board was completely missing! I am definitely a little wary of what else I may run into.
The CAB inserts aren't lighting up currently, the Skills Shot bonus level 1,5,10,25,50etc. on the red spinout lane lights aren't working,
and none of the inserts in the middle of the playfield are lighting up as well.
I am hoping the relay board fixes most of this? hahaha. Thank you again Bellagio for your help,(and all you guys)
its priceless when your not an expert like myself, lol. This Taxi Club is amazing!
thanks again,
humbly,
matt

Well shit, that sucks. I had no idea. Last thing I ordered from them was years ago and was very happy to find someone making these unique type of boards.

Big daddy enterprises is making relay boards. Not sure if they are for sale yet but I saw them in a post on Facebook

Was just about to throw that out there! He's making ALL KINDS of great stuff these days.

Is the rod dead center or is it hitting a little high? I had to put a quarter behind my shooter plate to get it to work so good by lowering the tip a little more.

I mean, I thought it was centered but maybe not? I keep hearing people say they placed things there, but I'm not understanding. Mind taking a pic when you can?

So what I did was loosen the shooter plate, stick a quarter behind it on the bottom and tighten back down

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That is a large adjustment. I wonder why it is so far off. Is the cabinet wood warped? Is the playfield not aligned?

I would think you would not have to make such a large adjustment unless something else is off alignment.

Cabinet feels solid and aligned playfield looks like it is as well and doesn’t scrape on way down. Someone said over time the brackets holding the playfield can bend which make it sit lower than it should. I’ve used this method on 2 Taxi machines with success in making it roll over well past 100k. On the one pictured it previously maxed out at 75k and on the other machine it maxed out at 25k and passenger. Not sure why it works but it does.

Are you referring to the hanger brackets? If so, I would bend those back to original shape and see how that works.

For anyone looking to join the club in the Northeast...

Machine - For Sale

Taxi Archived

Partially shopped/refurbished - “Nice player's Taxi f/s in Woodbury, CT. Game has been shopped with clear silicon rubber and warm white LED's. Has a new rottendog MPU and new displays. Also new slingshot plasti...”

2020-09-09

Woodbury, CT

dmieczko

2,500 (OBO)

Archived after: 9 days

Viewed: 473 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Well I am not new to the Taxi Club, I have owned Taxi for about 8 Years now and its time to Restore her

The Lock Down bar will be highly Polished & Side rails will be Shiny Stainless

Problem I am having is the Legs for the Machine I am unsure if I want to go with the Original Chrome Legs or Black Powder Coat , I like Both , can you guys offer your opinion cheers

I personally think Taxi looks really good with black legs, rails and lockdown bar. I’m not normally one for powder coat but like that combo