(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

8 years ago


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  • 2,962 posts
  • 323 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by MoSeS_1592
  • Topic is favorited by 138 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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There are 2,962 posts in this topic. You are on page 55 of 60.
#2701 5 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Disappointed, but motivated. The ramp looks great but I am lucky to get 3 spins so far. Got the red spring and a good shooter tip. The crappy old ramp gave me 5-6 spins so I have some adjusting to do! Also, it is wonderful to have all the GI back!
Shawn

I went with a standard silver spring.

Its working well.

Also check that you have the correct Williams shooter rod.

Mine came with an early bally one and i had to replace it.

It was too long by 1/4" and hit the playfield when raising it.

Adjusting the shooter lane cover so that the ball rests properly centered in the lane is important.

Shooter has the hit the center of the ball or you lose a lot of power.

On a solid plunge i can get 16 to 20 spins. But mostly its 12 to 16.

#2702 5 months ago

I hate to ask but is this the right nylon nut for playfield plastics ? I checked the manual three times and I couldn't find the nuts listed anywhere?

Screenshot_20211202-202848 (resized).png
#2703 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I hate to ask but is this the right nylon nut for playfield plastics ? I checked the manual three times and I couldn't find the nuts listed anywhere?
[quoted image]

Yes. 6/32 are the small ones and 8/32 are the thicker posts

#2705 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I hate to ask but is this the right nylon nut for playfield plastics ? I checked the manual three times and I couldn't find the nuts listed anywhere?
[quoted image]

This is actually closer to the correct nut for the plastics:

https://www.pinballlife.com/6-32-acorn-nut-natural-nylon.html

Although the newer metal ones hold better in a couple places

#2706 5 months ago

Take a slow mo video of the ball launching and you will most likely see it is not centered and that it shoots it off in one direction rattling up the wire form. Mine also is too long and bent. So you have to spin it just right. In the process of collecting parts now.

#2707 5 months ago

Just finished adding LEDs,and Titian rubbers to my Taxi. Very happy with how the game looks now.
Quick question,does the glue they use to build scale models work on plastic ramps ? I think what they use melts the materials you're glueing,and it almost like a plastic weld ?
P.S
My Foosball table makes a great work bench.

IMG_20211204_114058108 (resized).jpg
#2708 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Just finished adding LEDs,and Titian rubbers to my Taxi. Very happy with how the game looks now.
Quick question,does the glue they use to build scale models work on plastic ramps ? I think what they use melts the materials you're glueing,and it almost like a plastic weld ?
P.S
My Foosball table makes a great work bench.
[quoted image]

I see you moved some stuff out. Who needs a couch or desk.

#2709 5 months ago

I'm looking to join the club! If anyone near Virginia is thinking of selling, let me know!

Quoted from ralphs007:

Quick question,does the glue they use to build scale models work on plastic ramps ? I think what they use melts the materials you're glueing,and it almost like a plastic weld ?
P.S
My Foosball table makes a great work bench.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I've used Scigrip 3 which works like that to repair plastics and ramps a few times, though with mixed results. I used it to fix a cracked portion of a ramp on my Whitewater but it would only last a few months before breaking again. Definitely better than regular glue though.

#2710 5 months ago

With my ramps torn out... now seems like a good time to upgrade the flashers.

With my HS I needed to read things for LED to work in flashers. Same boat for Taxi??

#2711 5 months ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

With my ramps torn out... now seems like a good time to upgrade the flashers.
With my HS I needed to read things for LED to work in flashers. Same boat for Taxi??

No, Taxi doesn’t have the warming resistor boards like HS. The issue with led flashers in Taxi is that when you replace all of the flashers with leds, you may see some of them slightly ghost when you press the flipper buttons. I believe Whirlwind has the same issue. It’s not a huge deal, but it’s kind of annoying.

I did some research and read that it’s due to the flashers being on the same circuit as some of the coils. There are a couple of workarounds that people developed involving adding diodes to some of the coils or removing diodes from the aux power board.

For me, I just changed a couple of them back to regular 89 bulbs and it solved the problem.

#2712 5 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

No, Taxi doesn’t have the warming resistor boards like HS. The issue with led flashers in Taxi is that when you replace all of the flashers with leds, you may see some of them slightly ghost when you press the flipper buttons. I believe Whirlwind has the same issue. It’s not a huge deal, but it’s kind of annoying.
I did some research and read that it’s due to the flashers being on the same circuit as some of the coils. There are a couple of workarounds that people developed involving adding diodes to some of the coils or removing diodes from the aux power board.
For me, I just changed a couple of them back to regular 89 bulbs and it solved the problem.

Good to know.
Will just leave them...

Got a bigger issue now as my wireforms do not fit in my new replacement ramp.

#2713 5 months ago

Has anyone ever used this on their Taxi ? I'm trying to figure out how I could use it on my Taxi departure ramp?
Thanks in advance

Screenshot_20211209-111837 (resized).png
#2714 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Has anyone ever used this on their Taxi ? I'm trying to figure out how I could use it on my Taxi departure ramp?

I have one. It protects the area where the Drac catapult throws the ball onto the ramp. That area takes a beating.

#2715 5 months ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

my wireforms do not fit in my new replacement ramp.

I assume your replacement ramps are from Starship Fantasy. I had the same issue with my ramps not fitting because they installed the brackets backwards during production. Reach out to Larry to replace them with no problem if that’s your issue or you could just drill out the rivets and rivet the brackets back in the correct orientation.

#2716 5 months ago
Quoted from BriPin:

I assume your replacement ramps are from Starship Fantasy. I had the same issue with my ramps not fitting because they installed the brackets backwards during production. Reach out to Larry to replace them with no problem if that’s your issue or you could just drill out the rivets and rivet the brackets back in the correct orientation.

Ya... that's likely the issue.

Kinda annoyed as I was just fitting the wireforms after a full day of tear down and was the last step. I bought through a distributor in Canada. Hopefully not an issue getting replacement.

#2717 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Has anyone ever used this on their Taxi ? I'm trying to figure out how I could use it on my Taxi departure ramp?
Thanks in advance
[quoted image]

Like RonSwanson said, that part of the ramp gets hammered by the catapult. I’ve seen it cracked and repaired on several Taxi machines, including my original.

My repro ramps are definitely thicker than the originals and could probably take it, but I got the protector anyway. This is what it looks like installed:

BF555579-49C4-4C5F-8A72-062F72852DE8 (resized).jpeg
#2718 5 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Like RonSwanson said, that part of the ramp gets hammered by the catapult. I’ve seen it cracked and repaired on several Taxi machines, including my original.
My repro ramps are definitely thicker than the originals and could probably take it, but I got the protector anyway. This is what it looks like installed:
[quoted image]

Thank You !

#2719 5 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:Like RonSwanson said, that part of the ramp gets hammered by the catapult. I’ve seen it cracked and repaired on several Taxi machines, including my original.
My repro ramps are definitely thicker than the originals and could probably take it, but I got the protector anyway.

I also have new ramps and installed the protector just to be safe.

#2720 5 months ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

I also have new ramps and installed the protector just to be safe.

Yeah the repro ramps aren’t cheap so I figured it was worth it.

#2721 5 months ago

Been noticing a lot of bounce outs when I get a direct hard shot in Santa kickout... the ball recoils a bit and rolls right back out of the kickout hole and usually SDTM. I'm pretty sure it's because the front edge of the hole is worn down. Any solutions to correct the issue?

#2722 5 months ago

Can anyone tell me what length rubber goes behind Marilynn? Manual I have looks like it's been photocopied 109 times then faxed. Can't make it out.

#2723 5 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I mean you can try, but calling those “improved” is a stretch to me. They never fit underneath the pop bumper cap right and they usually fall over because nothing supports them staying upright. Just get the new metal ones and do it the right way, it’s not bad.

I’m getting ready to install the lamp socket that you recommended . Any tips I should know before I get started ? I was concerned that I don’t have a staple gun small enough to fit in this area. But I read a good tip where I could just ease the old staple out enough to fit the new lead under. And then tap it down when I’m done.

I watched a YouTube video,and it didn’t mention anything about the lamp sockets Polarity. Does it matter which way I solder the lamp socket? I do plan on reusing the little piece of tubing that’s on the hot lead of the lamp socket for preventing a short.
Thanks in advance

39E5B6CB-5D92-4D33-ACAA-C709424D1EEA (resized).png
#2724 5 months ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Can anyone tell me what length rubber goes behind Marilynn? Manual I have looks like it's been photocopied 109 times then faxed. Can't make it out.

All of the rubber sizes are printed on the actual playfield at their locations.

#2725 5 months ago

You definitely should solder the joint where they’re riveted because they like to let go after you have installed them!

#2726 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I’m getting ready to install the lamp socket that you recommended . Any tips I should know before I get started ? I was concerned that I don’t have a staple gun small enough to fit in this area. But I read a good tip where I could just ease the old staple out enough to fit the new lead under. And then tap it down when I’m done.
I watched a YouTube video,and it didn’t mention anything about the lamp sockets Polarity. Does it matter which way I solder the lamp socket? I do plan on reusing the little piece of tubing that’s on the hot lead of the lamp socket for preventing a short.
Thanks in advance [quoted image]

My advice is to modernize them and use the wire lead lamp sockets then molex them into the harness.

Set any diodes into the wire loom with shrink tube or aquarium tubing over them.

This method removes the silly soldering and stapling.

You can gang up all the ground wires to a single connection etc.

Draw it up on paper and you will see how easy it is to rewire these.

Im doing the same with all the silly bare ground wire. Just replace it with safer insulated wire.

#2727 5 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I’m getting ready to install the lamp socket that you recommended . Any tips I should know before I get started ? I was concerned that I don’t have a staple gun small enough to fit in this area. But I read a good tip where I could just ease the old staple out enough to fit the new lead under. And then tap it down when I’m done.
I watched a YouTube video,and it didn’t mention anything about the lamp sockets Polarity. Does it matter which way I solder the lamp socket? I do plan on reusing the little piece of tubing that’s on the hot lead of the lamp socket for preventing a short.
Thanks in advance [quoted image]

That’s what I did with mine. Ease the staple out a little. Then carefully slide under. They bend really easy. I tucked the leads up above the ground braid as I found it easier to solder when the lead wasn’t trying to bend away from the braid. No it doesn’t matter which way you solder them. Will be the same either way it’s turned.

#2728 5 months ago
Quoted from BriPin:

You definitely should solder the joint where they’re riveted because they like to let go after you have installed them!

I see what you mean about the the joint needing to be soldered. Why would they produce something that bad ?
I soldered the lamp socket joint but my conical tip was the wrong tool for removing the old lamp socket so I aborted the mission.
The good news is I'm getting a soldering iron for Christmas.The bad news is, it's at my Daughter's house.
Screenshot_20211217-201836-683 (resized).png

#2729 5 months ago

Looking for a Taxi pinball here in Texas. Not looking for a project. Message me with info.

#2730 4 months ago

Finally got myself a nice Taxi this week -- been looking for a while. The playfield is nice, has a playfield protector on it, and plays very well. We had to sort some GI issues (turned out to be toasted connectors on the interconnect board). While putting in NVRAM today we noticed that it has prototype ROMs installed (proto 8 -- see the attached picture). I was wondering if there are any advantage to upgrading the ROM? Not sure if there were any fixes introduced in later versions. Searching this thread I see mbaumle asked this same question in post 1634, but I don't see if this was answered. Anyone have any opinions on the Taxi ROM versions?

IMG_20211220_170436 (resized).jpg
#2731 4 months ago
Quoted from Bacondaddy:

Anyone have any opinions on the Taxi ROM versions?

Still following. Though, from the little research I've done, System 11 Rom revisions generally don't include massive updates like they did back in the WPC days. Likely small bug fixes or pricing updates that won't be noticed in a home environment.

I have a set of the newest ROM revisions, but I haven't installed them yet. Prior to his partnership with PPS, Soren had a ROM patch to upgrade the jackpot logic to make the game more tournament friendly, so I'm inclined to believe that it's on the docket to be re-released under official license soon. If that's the case, I'll likely go with those.

#2732 4 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Still following. Though, from the little research I've done, System 11 Rom revisions generally don't include massive updates like they did back in the WPC days. Likely small bug fixes or pricing updates that won't be noticed in a home environment.
I have a set of the newest ROM revisions, but I haven't installed them yet. Prior to his partnership with PPS, Soren had a ROM patch to upgrade the jackpot logic to make the game more tournament friendly, so I'm inclined to believe that it's on the docket to be re-released under official license soon. If that's the case, I'll likely go with those.

Thanks mbaumle, good to know! I saw discussion about that patched ROM for tournament play, but if there's some hope that'll be rereleased in some updated form I'll wait a bit too and see what happens. So far as I can tell this prototype ROM plays the same as any other Taxi I've tried (though I'm no master of the details), so it doesn't seem urgent.

#2733 4 months ago

soren released a taxi ROM. I would run that if i was looking for the latest and greatest.

#2734 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My advice is to modernize them and use the wire lead lamp sockets then molex them into the harness.
Set any diodes into the wire loom with shrink tube or aquarium tubing over them.
This method removes the silly soldering and stapling.
You can gang up all the ground wires to a single connection etc.
Draw it up on paper and you will see how easy it is to rewire these.
Im doing the same with all the silly bare ground wire. Just replace it with safer insulated wire.

I replaced the broken pop bumper lamp socket today, using my new soldering iron I got for Christmas..
It was easier for me to just copy how the original lamp socket was installed. Once I get a lot more experience,I'll give what you suggested a shot. But right now I'm ecstatic that I fixed it.

My next repair will probably be replacing the C-30 capacitor on my MPU. Every once in awhile,when I turn the game on, nothing happens, unless I shut it off and turn it back on. I read somewhere,that it's probably the capacitor that's bad .
Not looking forward to it, since it close to 20 connections I have to undue,to take out the board.

#2735 4 months ago

After getting a ton of play at the Houston arcade show I finally got around to fixing almost everything. I installed the new blue spinout ramp. Love it and it looks great! While I had the playfield out I fixed the GI problem I covered earlier. Sure looks better with the right side and the top lamps all working. Next I did a deep dive on the switch for the lower pop bumper. It has always been very touchy and problematic. Either it won't work or its sporadic. Very hard to get the adjustment right, I figured. Close inspection showed me that the dang switch spoon was NOT centered on the pop but was actually off by 3/16" or so. Its a wonder it ever worked at all since the ball had to completely deflect the ring at just the right angle to get the switch to even close. Came that way from the factory! I repositioned the switch so the spoon is now centered and it works like a champ. Also on the list was the shooter since installing the new ramp made for a terrible shot. A few adjustments were made and I disassembled and cleaned the rod. Also added a little dry silicone to the rod. I can now go a full round on the skill shot past 100k. The only "problem" I have left is the right flipper. I can rarely complete the left ramp if I hit it just right. The ramp is new and I have adjusted the flipper but it still doesn't seem to travel quite as far as the left flipper does. New coil and nylon tube also. Any suggestions?

#2736 4 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

After getting a ton of play at the Houston arcade show I finally got around to fixing almost everything. I installed the new blue spinout ramp. Love it and it looks great! While I had the playfield out I fixed the GI problem I covered earlier. Sure looks better with the right side and the top lamps all working. Next I did a deep dive on the switch for the lower pop bumper. It has always been very touchy and problematic. Either it won't work or its sporadic. Very hard to get the adjustment right, I figured. Close inspection showed me that the dang switch spoon was NOT centered on the pop but was actually off by 3/16" or so. Its a wonder it ever worked at all since the ball had to completely deflect the ring at just the right angle to get the switch to even close. Came that way from the factory! I repositioned the switch so the spoon is now centered and it works like a champ. Also on the list was the shooter since installing the new ramp made for a terrible shot. A few adjustments were made and I disassembled and cleaned the rod. Also added a little dry silicone to the rod. I can now go a full round on the skill shot past 100k. The only "problem" I have left is the right flipper. I can rarely complete the left ramp if I hit it just right. The ramp is new and I have adjusted the flipper but it still doesn't seem to travel quite as far as the left flipper does. New coil and nylon tube also. Any suggestions?

Coil stop thickness different on that one flipper? A trick I recently learned for hard ramp shots is I now set the flipper tip down by about 1/8" I would never have thought it works but it makes a huge difference on ramps.

#2737 4 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Next I did a deep dive on the switch for the lower pop bumper. It has always been very touchy and problematic. Either it won't work or its sporadic. Very hard to get the adjustment right, I figured. Close inspection showed me that the dang switch spoon was NOT centered on the pop but was actually off by 3/16" or so. Its a wonder it ever worked at all since the ball had to completely deflect the ring at just the right angle to get the switch to even close.

This was my problem as well, but with the top left pop. The game improved significantly once this problem was solved.

#2738 4 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

While I had the playfield out I fixed the GI problem I covered earlier. Sure looks better with the right side and the top lamps all working.

I've been trying to trace this same GI issue down for over a week on my Taxi! The Yellow - Yellow/White GI string is out on my game (so same right side, top lamps).

F2 on interconnect tests good, previous owner repinned the female connectors on J6 and J9 on the interconnect, and I'm getting continuity from J9 to the sockets under the playfield. Am I missing something here? It's been driving me nuts.

The coin door lights are also out, which goes through a different connector, so schematically, the problem must either be at the connector of J6, or a broken trace on the interconnect, correct? BUT I can also "buzz out" the pins from J6 to J9.

#2739 4 months ago

There is a small relay board that all the GI passes through near the top of the playfield. Both sides pass through it separately and that is where my problem was. It has a two-sided relay that allows the game to blink the GI like when you drain or ring the bell. Check there if everything else looks good.

Shawn

#2740 4 months ago

Following up:

Found the problem and corrected it. Issue was J6 Pin 2 on the Interconnect board.

The previous owner did re-pin both the male and female connectors, but they burnt up AGAIN. Specifically, that pin.

Anyway, moral is, just because someone replaced GI components, doesn’t mean they should be ruled out. I spent way too much time looking for a broken daisy chained wire under the playfield because I assumed the connector was fine.

#2741 4 months ago

Noticed an odd problem while playing last night. Was in the middle of a monster game (of course), had all passengers picked up, and hit the lit "carry passengers target" (Yes!), ball came firing back and hit the slings back and forth and then rocketed down the out lane. I plunge the next ball, and suddenly I notice that the gorbie shot keeps getting rejected? I continue playing, and also notice the slings aren't firing either (when they were before). I pull the glass and hit the wireform gate switch that opens the gorbie gate temporarily, and nothing. Slings not firing when I trigger them with a finger. Carry passengers switch not registering when activated, but the pops ARE working when triggered (they're all in the same switch column).

I put the game into switch test mode, and none of the switches in the column were registering, but the associated coils all fired in coil test. I look under the playfield for a broken wire, and can't find anything. I then pull the switch matrix connector off the board, reseat it, and no change when the game is powered back on. I power the game off again, pull the connector back off, and punch the associated colored wire firmly back into the connector with a jeweler's screwdriver. I power the game, and get a message saying "Factory Restored" or something like that, and everything in the column is now working correctly in edge test and in actual game play. I had to reconfigure the setting to freeplay, and I lost my high scores.

I never touched the remote battery pack (yeah yeah, I know, at least it's off the board), so I'm not sure what would have caused the factory restore? Anybody ever see this happen before? Admittedly, the batteries in the pack are old and the ones that came in the game when I got it a couple months ago (I'll swap them to lithiums this evening). Is this purely coincidental? Can the batteries being dead or low cause a switch column to go out? The whole thing is very strange...

#2742 4 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Noticed an odd problem while playing last night. Was in the middle of a monster game (of course), had all passengers picked up, and hit the lit "carry passengers target" (Yes!), ball came firing back and hit the slings back and forth and then rocketed down the out lane. I plunge the next ball, and suddenly I notice that the gorbie shot keeps getting rejected? I continue playing, and also notice the slings aren't firing either (when they were before). I pull the glass and hit the wireform gate switch that opens the gorbie gate temporarily, and nothing. Slings not firing when I trigger them with a finger. Carry passengers switch not registering when activated, but the pops ARE working when triggered (they're all in the same switch column).
I put the game into switch test mode, and none of the switches in the column were registering, but the associated coils all fired in coil test. I look under the playfield for a broken wire, and can't find anything. I then pull the switch matrix connector off the board, reseat it, and no change when the game is powered back on. I power the game off again, pull the connector back off, and punch the associated colored wire firmly back into the connector with a jeweler's screwdriver. I power the game, and get a message saying "Factory Restored" or something like that, and everything in the column is now working correctly in edge test and in actual game play. I had to reconfigure the setting to freeplay, and I lost my high scores.
I never touched the remote battery pack (yeah yeah, I know, at least it's off the board), so I'm not sure what would have caused the factory restore? Anybody ever see this happen before? Admittedly, the batteries in the pack are old and the ones that came in the game when I got it a couple months ago (I'll swap them to lithiums this evening). Is this purely coincidental? Can the batteries being dead or low cause a switch column to go out? The whole thing is very strange...

The memory protect circuit is having difficulties.

#2743 4 months ago

Any suggested course of action?

#2744 4 months ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Any suggested course of action?

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11

possibly U18 or an associated trace, pin, connector or component.

#2745 4 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Has anyone ever used this on their Taxi ? I'm trying to figure out how I could use it on my Taxi departure ramp?
Thanks in advance
[quoted image]

The ramp protector works great,and I no longer have to glue the ramp every other week . I also splurged and modded the coin box.Ho Ho Ho

IMG_20220107_120502366 (resized).jpg
#2746 4 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

The ramp protector works great,and I no longer have to glue the ramp every other week . I also splurged and modded the coin box.Ho Ho Ho [quoted image]

I have a Marylin keyfob. To go with my Marylin back glass and my Lola playfield and rom.

2 weeks later
#2747 3 months ago

Looking for a good original maunal ...anyone have one? Tx

#2748 3 months ago

Do a lot of you folks have a taxi and a dinner?

#2749 3 months ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Do a lot of you folks have a taxi and a dinner?

I do.

#2750 3 months ago

You have a great collection. I hope someone makes a translite for our Stargates. Mine has rope burn and you can kinda see through it.

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