I noticed this with mine, I have a slow motion video of mine that looks exactly like the previous one posted here. Not letting me post a video though. It slams up against the left side of the launch ramp and loses all momentum. When I spin my shooter rod you can clearly see it is bent. You will also notice it will a stutter while you pull it back. This is because the bend is causing it to bind.

I picked up this Taxi translite a few years ago when I was trying to get everything pinball related nearby me.
I found this on LetGo for like $30 or something. Picked it up on the NW side of Chicago. Very close to where I currently live - very Polish/European neighborhood.
Older guy was retiring and selling things from around the house. I asked where he got it and he said that he was drinking buddies with Python. One day he brought it over for his buddy and he had it hanging in the garage since.
I have it framed in my basement game room now. I didn't even realize it until today but it's a Marilyn!

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I need this one for my Taxi. I have a MM playfield and roms but Lola backglass.
You want to sell it?

No, I like the story attached to it. There's also some flaws in it so wouldn't be ideal for a game.

In the home stretch!

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Happy to join the club!

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Making progress with bulbs and such. The adjust failure was due to 20+ year old batteries exploding in the battery holder. I cleaned it up and scraped terminals and it's working fine. I need to finish cleaning it out, for sure.

At some point I plan on depopulating, pulling mylar, and trying to deal with discoloration/ball swirls. For the most part I think my playfield has a really good shot at being restored, rather than having to be hardtopped. The cabinet itself looks GREAT for the most part. I'll replace the left ramp when I do that, since mine is in bad shape (thankfully it appears to just be cosmetic for right now).

Some of these GI bulbs really suck..but I think I'm going to hold out and wait for sunlight 2SMDs (rather than the warm white I was installing) because of how dark this thing is.

Other than the battery cleanup and the fact that this thing is FILTHY, it plays like a beast! Well adjusted and pretty much ready to go.

She claimed it was HUO (not in those words of course) and I believe it. Maybe I'll just go over the top with making this one ridiculously nice. Idk.

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Booted up the first time after cleaning, hardtop installation and cleaning of all the mechanical devices.
Left flipper works. Right flipper does not work at all. See some sparks at right flipper cabinet switch. Any suggestions were to look first? Will do new solder points at cabinet switch.

Middle bumper does not work either.

My 3rd taxi project, and I'm struggling with the bell.

I've got 43V at the red/red on the coil lug.
I've got 43V on the other lug.
I've got 43V at the switch, and the other end of the switch.
I've got 43V at the brown/green wire.
I've got 43V at the header pins on the MPU. (sorry, I forget what pin, but it was brown/green)

If I ground the tab of the bell's drive transistor, nothing happens.
If I ground the tab of the nearby transistors, other coils do fire.

All header pins have been reflowed.

I'm out of ideas.

PghPinballRescue Did you replace the transistor? If no, that sounds like the issue if it is not firing when grounded.

Start button. Hey guys. Not sure if this plagued any of you folks, but my taxi came with a white button. No green NOS button to be found so I ordered a green one from arcadeshop. It worked great! I just had to trim it a bit.

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/571/push-button-leaf-switch-green.htm

I believe some were changed out intentionally because the start button was not easy to see. Bad enough they put a sticker on the coin door. Lol
Python was a clever guy. I loved his art style.

Did you try grounding directly at the coil lug?

Whoops, it snuck in to my dining room/work area while the wife was away....

LEDs about 85% done. Finishing it out with warm white for now. Money's a bit tight right now but I WANTED sunlight. Oh well.

Some of this GI is really making my life miserable. Granted I should really tear down the topside entirely and CLEAN, thoroughly...but that's gonna have to wait.
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Really like the stop light bumper colors

Thank you! I liked it so much on the high speed that I hardtopped, I felt it needed to be on Taxi too!

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It's not the cheapest mod in the world, at $50 for covers and Evo bulbs, but I love it! The evos don't photograph very well because they always look BLINDING with this phone. They're definitely bright but not blinding, in person.

I wiped down this Taxi cab down with Clorox wipes earlier, and I'm stunned how clean it is. Check it out!

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The front is the only part that's not so great..the door is getting powdercoated and I might repaint just the front. Touch-up would be fine too but it might be difficult to match, idk. It's by no means 'bad', it's just not as nice as the rest of the cab.

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Where can man find those coin door Williams loge assembly?

Good question. I checked eBay and didn't see any exactly like this. I asked my powder guy if he could leave the Williams logo a different color (gray/silver, or chrome if possible).. I'll have to make sure to tell him to be extra careful with the door because I'm not sure I can buy a replacement lol

I painted my coin door, then took sandpaper to sand off "W" logo down to the metal. I really like the look!

I'll try to post pict.

That's a really good idea, too!

Picts of my Taxi "W" logo

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Is that original art on the cabinet or new decals?
Like the black metals. Did it to my Wcs94.
Will keep my Taxi as original as possible this time.

Still having issues with my right flipper.
Fuses ok
Coils ok
Cabinet switches ok
Flipper assembly ok
Interconnection board ok

Measure volt is my to do.

Anybody other suggestions to solve this issue?

I applied new decals, then 4 coats of automotive clear, wet sanded 800 / 1200 / 1500 and polished. The metal is powder coated black, except coin door which I painted.

If you really want one, CPR sells brand new ones. I need to get one for my WW first before I do Taxi because the WW one is in poor condition

Nice Taxi. I do the logo sand paper trick also. Works great.

Gorgeous work. I'm torn on what to do with mine. The entire cab looks GORGEOUS..... Except the front. But from my understanding this is a nightmare to match, which means repainting would be irritating and touching up would probably be even worse. Bleh

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I’ve been focusing so much on my whirlwind trying to get it together and finally finished that less the missing diverter, I realized I missed Taxi and had to play a game. First game back picked up 3 of them and carry passengers. Second ball Santa immediately and all that was left was Marilyn “Ohhh Jackpot” it had been maxed out since I hadn’t hit it in a very long time. Right at the last second smashed it home and was greeted with the bell barrage. I really missed not playing that game glad my room is back together now

Oh my Lord, this looks dreadful. Anyone know exactly which plugs need removed in order to separate the head? I'd prefer to not disconnect a bunch unnecessarily.

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It's not as bad as it seems since almost all the connectors are keyed for specific spots. I used to mark on the connector with a thin sharpie which plugs went where (J121, etc.) . You could do that.

When I began clearing the cabinet on my Taxi for restoration, I was under the impression that the pf had molex quick disconnects like High Speed. I found that it does not and that the 3 harnesses that come from the pf (switches, lamps and solenoids) break out into about 10 direct connections to various boards in the head. There is also a molex connector for the cabinet wiring harness that goes to the coin door, cab switches, bell etc.

It's very tedious, but I'm currently in the process of making molex quick disconnects for the pf so I can just pop a few plugs and pull the pf out whenever I want to without having to deal with all the pcb connections in the head. I'm guessing the change from quick disconnects to direct pcb connection was a labor/parts cost saving measure at Williams.

Noticed that myself. Thinking also along the lines of high speed, which I removed probably 30 damn times throughout the hardtop process, I expected the same with taxi. I was going to take it down in three pieces to really make it easier on myself. Nope.

The molex idea sounds decent, you could knock out one at a time over the peroid of a month and never really have the machine "down" for too long.

I hate my molex crimper. Every time I use it the crimps look like garbage.

Yeah, it is a serious pia to do that many crimps, but once I get started and get on a roll it takes me about 2 1/2 hrs to finish one.

I use the standard Amazon ratcheting crimpers and automatic wire strippers. They give me clean, consistent crimps. Also important to get the right molex pins for the wire size.

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Yeah, I'm doing that anyway so I can eventually send all the boards off for bulletproofing. They're all done now except the lamp board. I just didn't know if off hand anyone knew exactly which actually needed removed to pull the head. I'll poke around until I figure it out.

Just get in there.

When i pop off the head of a system 11, i just use a fine print sharpie and mark on the connector housing where it plugged into. I also take a few pics.

Just disconnect the wiring coming up through the cab neck. When i disconnect a connector, i push it thought the neck into the cab. It's not bad at all. Looks daunting, but it's not.

Labeled and all fished through, although I pulled probably 15 or so that I didn't need to. Oops.

Eyyyyyy

Ignore the futon, I scattered all my debris in excitement to get my pop covers back on high speed

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nice lineup jordan

Not bad, maybe a bit heavy on sys11. My World Cup Soccer boards are on their way back soon.. Then I get to hope like hell I can get them all hooked back up.

Of course, the two PRIMO pins aren't shown...

Jack's is off by itself like the dork it is, meteor is in timeout for being a jerk.

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I like the Rick Sanchez head laying next to the vintage boombox in your photo. That is one of my favorite shows haha.

There's another vintage boombox near cactus Jack's!

I need to get caught up on R&M. It's great!

Got my Radcals today! Still tons of work to do.

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Keep us in touch how this works. Thanks

Will do! Painting the cab is next, but I have to wait for the humidity to go down. I’m in the southeast so that may take awhile...

In the meantime I’ll be working on the new cabinet door.

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What color are you going to paint the cabinet? Black would normally be a good choice but Radcals are on the translucent side. I'm fearful the black would show through. You might have to go yellow and paint the areas that are suppose to be back separately. I would recommend doing it an oil based paint. Decals stick way better on oil based paint in my opinion. I no longer have my Taxi but plan to put Radcals on my BOP so I'm anxious for an update on your project.

Looking good Mario!

I'm going to paint the cabinet the same color as the radcals (except the front/inside of the head). I'm going to take one of the radcals to the paint store and get them to color match it. I have an HVLP setup and will see what the guys at the store suggest.

If you haven't seen it already, there's a pretty thorough YouTube video of a guy installing radcals on Taxi:

I just finished my Taxi paint and decals and struggled with HVLP and colors along the way so maybe my story will help:

I backed into HVLP due to Vid's cabinet guide thread recommending Kilz oil based primer but I couldn't roll that well so went to HVLP and thinned the primer with naphtha (per Vid) 4 : 1 to get it to flow which worked out well.

For color, started with the Behr 3300 color recomendation in this thread and elsewhere. Took the color code to Home Depot but they couldn't decipher it. Went back with a piece of the new decals to scan and mix. Got home and knew I'd have trouble with spraying because the 3300 was so thick. Thinned out with water to 20% which is twice the recommended amount, still too thick, tried to spray with bad results and it was tacky after days. The excess water was probably affecting the chemical reaction.

Then went to Sherwin Williams for oil based cabinet paint and HVLP recommendation. They had no one with HVLP experience but scanned the decal and mixed the paint which is only available in gloss. Sprayed the cab (again 4 : 1 naphtha), went on good but the color was not right. Apparently the scanner was picking up mostly yellow and not the red which is very fine specs on the decals. Back to the store, scan and mix, color didn't look right in the store so the rep custom mixed another adding more red. It turned out to be a close match and complimentary to decals.

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Man, that looks really good! Did you clear coat over it, or it that just the gloss of the paint?

Thanks for posting all of that information, it will definitely help me out.

Thanks! Lots of sand, spray, epoxy, bondo, sand, spray, rinse and repeat. That is the gloss of the paint, no clear.

How much primer and paint did you end up needing to spray the whole cab?