(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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There are 3,670 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 74.
#2251 3 years ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Translites available on eBay
ebay.com link » Williams Taxi Marilyn Pinball Machine Next Gen Translite

I've seen that, thanks. But how is the quality? There's many repros around and you never know if you get good quality or not. Price is not a good indicator.

#2252 3 years ago
Quoted from philsublime:

I think it's just a glass in front of the translite.

Make sure it’s tempered glass. Found out the hard way someone used regular glass in the Taxi I bought a while ago.

#2253 3 years ago

So the translite sticks to the back of the glass? Sorry, never dealt with this before. Only other Sys 11 game I have had was an Earthshaker and it had a backglass.

#2254 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

So the translite sticks to the back of the glass? Sorry, never dealt with this before. Only other Sys 11 game I have had was an Earthshaker and it had a backglass.

It's not glued or anything. It just gets placed against the back of the glass and the lift trim/etc holds it there

#2255 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

So the translite sticks to the back of the glass? Sorry, never dealt with this before. Only other Sys 11 game I have had was an Earthshaker and it had a backglass.

Some people also use double sided tape to hold it In place. The trim pieces do the job just fine though

#2257 3 years ago

Random, how raised are your back legs? I had mine maybe 3/4" up, not something I would see as terribly aggressive. I was getting so frustrated with how hard it was to do ANYTHING on my game. It was just a cruel center draining B.

I lowered the back legs all the way down on to the nut and its a zillion times better now but still seems to plenty fast. My phone, which I'm sure isn't entirely accurate, seems to indicate 6 degrees. Can that be right, with the legs all the way down?

#2258 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Random, how raised are your back legs? I had mine maybe 3/4" up, not something I would see as terribly aggressive. I was getting so frustrated with how hard it was to do ANYTHING on my game. It was just a cruel center draining B.
I lowered the back legs all the way down on to the nut and its a zillion times better now but still seems to plenty fast. My phone, which I'm sure isn't entirely accurate, seems to indicate 6 degrees. Can that be right, with the legs all the way down?

I purchased a very inexpensive digital leveler on amazon for my games which tells me slope. I will say on both Taxi and Funhouse I had to raise the back legs up a bit to get it to 6 degrees on mine. Its hard to say for sure though without measuring it since your room floor could be different than my floor.

#2259 3 years ago

Anyone know what a fair price for a nice condition marilyn taxi should sell for?

#2260 3 years ago
Quoted from Fieldsweeper:

Anyone know what a fair price for a nice condition marilyn taxi should sell for?

Taxi in general these days seems to be 2500ish for a solid condition game.

#2261 3 years ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Taxi in general these days seems to be 2500ish for a solid condition game.

Seems about right. I don't think I'd even think about letting mine go for under 3 in the current market and it doesn't appear that I'm alone. For whatever reason it seems like taxi has gotten more of a boost than a lot of games lately.

#2262 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Seems about right. I don't think I'd even think about letting mine go for under 3 in the current market and it doesn't appear that I'm alone. For whatever reason it seems like taxi has gotten more of a boost than a lot of games lately.

Same here. I'm not sure I think they are "worth" 3k but it's one of my favorite games and they seem to be moving pretty fast at 2500. They have hardtops available for them so that may contribute to the recent uptick? Maybe people wanting them for winter/quarantine projects since you can make them look great with a hardtop and don't need to drop a 1k playfield into it.

#2263 3 years ago
Quoted from grantopia:

Same here. I'm not sure I think they are "worth" 3k but it's one of my favorite games and they seem to be moving pretty fast at 2500. They have hardtops available for them so that may contribute to the recent uptick? Maybe people wanting them for winter/quarantine projects since you can make them look great with a hardtop and don't need to drop a 1k playfield into it.

Yeah, I'm not sure i buy the 'worth $3000' bit either but the market is what the market is...I guess.

I'm enjoying mine a LOT more now that it's not a nightmarish drain monster. The skillshot continues to fight me but I at least have it to where I can typically hit 50-75 with the occasional 100. I'd say it's now easier to play and enjoy the shots without being any sort of guarantee. I still need to buy a better digital level so I can see what the pitch truly is.

I wish I could pull my mylar and restore my playfield (it's nice but it has the typical discoloration where it transitions away) and repaint the front of my cab. My paint is GORGEOUS aside from the front. Doh!

#2264 3 years ago

I’m currently selling mine for $2200 in Northern California.

#2265 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Holder:

I’m currently selling mine for $2200 in Northern California.

too far for me I will sell my Nascar or trade for one tho. lol If you are willing to ship lol

#2266 3 years ago
Quoted from Fieldsweeper:

too far for me I will sell my Nascar or trade for one tho. lol If you are willing to ship lol

Shipping isn’t totally off the table, but I’ll keep you in mind.

#2267 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Holder:

Shipping isn’t totally off the table, but I’ll keep you in mind.

I'd just prefer the Marilyn one tho. Hell they even made more of those than they did lola ones lol

#2268 3 years ago
Quoted from Fieldsweeper:

I'd just prefer the Marilyn one tho. Hell they even made more of those than they did lola ones lol

Mine has the best of both worlds. Lola on the playfield, Marylin on the translite.

#2269 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Holder:

Mine has the best of both worlds. Lola on the playfield, Marylin on the translite.

Wanna trade translites? Lol I have a Marilyn playfield with a Lola Translite

3 weeks later
#2270 3 years ago

Just cut some new rails out of oak with a lot of help from a friend. Need to sand/paint/clear and they will be ready to install.

I like to have the rails in place to reinforce the new pf before installing the mechs to avoid the chance of sagging.

147526FE-F65F-4683-88F7-6AB79BEC6D9D (resized).jpeg147526FE-F65F-4683-88F7-6AB79BEC6D9D (resized).jpeg
#2271 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Just cut some new rails out of oak with a lot of help from a friend. Need to sand/paint/clear and they will be ready to install.
I like to have the rails in place to reinforce the new pf before installing the mechs to avoid the chance of sagging.
[quoted image]

Nothing like fresh wood!

#2272 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Nothing like fresh wood!

Yeah it’s a nice upgrade from the stock ones, this one is especially bad.

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#2273 3 years ago

TIA - I have broken my wiring down to its separate sections because there was so much to repair/replace it got to be overwhelming to do it in place in the machine. I have completely redone the transformer to backbox sections and am now fixing the interconnect to backbox GI and flashers. Specifically the run from 2J7 to the relay on the insert panel. I have the wires to the bulbs no problem, but I know at least two wires go to the relay and then wires go from the relay to bulbs? Not positive since it was so hacked up what is supposed to go where. Any knowledge is helpful, pictures are better.

Shawn

#2274 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

TIA - I have broken my wiring down to its separate sections because there was so much to repair/replace it got to be overwhelming to do it in place in the machine. I have completely redone the transformer to backbox sections and am now fixing the interconnect to backbox GI and flashers. Specifically the run from 2J7 to the relay on the insert panel. I have the wires to the bulbs no problem, but I know at least two wires go to the relay and then wires go from the relay to bulbs? Not positive since it was so hacked up what is supposed to go where. Any knowledge is helpful, pictures are better.
Shawn

Here are a couple of pics of those areas taken before my game was torn down, hope they help

IMG_3282 (resized).JPGIMG_3282 (resized).JPGIMG_3310 (resized).JPGIMG_3310 (resized).JPG
#2275 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Here are a couple of pics of those areas taken before my game was torn down, hope they help
[quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect. The shot of 2J7 confirms what is on the schematic. I dont suppose you know which pair of brown and green wires is going into the relay and which ones are going out? (One pair has come in from the interconnect board and the other pair are going out to one or more flashers, I assume.) The plugged pair on the left of the board are intact so there is no worry there.

Thanks for the pics!!

#2276 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Perfect. The shot of 2J7 confirms what is on the schematic. I dont suppose you know which pair of brown and green wires is going into the relay and which ones are going out? (One pair has come in from the interconnect board and the other pair are going out to one or more flashers, I assume.) The plugged pair on the left of the board are intact so there is no worry there.
Thanks for the pics!!

Sorry my game is in a bunch of boxes right now during restoration. Just from looking at pics, it appears that the left pair of grn/brn go to lamps and the right pair of wires go to the IC board. I can't verify that though.

#2277 3 years ago

First section is rebuilt from the transformer on out. Everything was stripped back to good wire or replaced wholesale and then crimped on either AMP mate n lok or Molex .084 fittings for good amperage capacity. So I went from this...
IMG_2405 (resized).JPGIMG_2405 (resized).JPG

To this!
IMG_2410 (resized).JPGIMG_2410 (resized).JPG

And from this...
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To this.
IMG_2414 (resized).JPGIMG_2414 (resized).JPG
IMG_2415 (resized).JPGIMG_2415 (resized).JPG

You get the idea.
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IMG_2419 (resized).JPGIMG_2419 (resized).JPG

I modified the interconnect board as per Pinwiki where all of the two GI leads are connected. Thats why that plug does not have the extra loops. Hopefully it will make for a nice even spread of power that lasts a good long time.

IMG_2418 (resized).JPGIMG_2418 (resized).JPG
#2278 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

First section is rebuilt from the transformer on out. Everything was stripped back to good wire or replaced wholesale and then crimped on either AMP mate n lok or Molex .084 fittings for good amperage capacity. So I went from this...
[quoted image]
To this!
[quoted image]
And from this...
[quoted image]
To this.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
You get the idea.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I modified the interconnect board as per Pinwiki where all of the two GI leads are connected. Thats why that plug does not have the extra loops. Hopefully it will make for a nice even spread of power that lasts a good long time.
[quoted image]

Nice work!

#2279 3 years ago

My Lola targets aren't resetting or there is a delay when they do but it doesn't happen all the time. However I can't get into the diagnostics menu to troubleshoot. I pulled the connector off the board and jumpered it and was able to get into it. I wasn't able to go through all the options though. Has anyone ever had this issue?

#2280 3 years ago
Quoted from A_Holder:

My Lola targets aren't resetting or there is a delay when they do but it doesn't happen all the time. However I can't get into the diagnostics menu to troubleshoot. I pulled the connector off the board and jumpered it and was able to get into it. I wasn't able to go through all the options though. Has anyone ever had this issue?

One or more of the optos are not functioning correctly. If it’s intermittent it’s likely dirty. Clean the u shaped optos for those targets and you’ll probably be golden. To help narrow down which one(s) aren’t functioning, manually knock them down. Each one should make a noise to indicate it’s been detected as dropped.

#2281 3 years ago

On to the playfield wiring. Started with the GI.
Before...
IMG_2439 (resized).JPGIMG_2439 (resized).JPG
And after.
IMG_2445 (resized).JPGIMG_2445 (resized).JPG

Not sure what this is or why it is this way but I am certain I will figure it out and make it right.
IMG_2442 (resized).JPGIMG_2442 (resized).JPG

So I start reviewing the excellent CFH guides to freshen my memory. I've been doing nothing but Bally and Stern since I sold off the Earthshaker years ago. I already know several coils are fried. And several have cut wires. Then it hits me. Every coil on the play field has a diode on it. Every. Last. One. Who are these people...

#2282 3 years ago

So as it turns out, this plug is for special solenoid switches. Its 1J18 at the top right of the CPU. I have the positions of the white, orange/black and orange/brown. I need to know what position the orange/green should be in. The schematic is not like the plug. On the schematic it shows position six to be the key but the key is at position one and the white wire is at six. Help?

IMG_2441 (resized).JPGIMG_2441 (resized).JPG
#2283 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

So as it turns out, this plug is for special solenoid switches. Its 1J18 at the top right of the CPU. I have the positions of the white, orange/black and orange/brown. I need to know what position the orange/green should be in. The schematic is not like the plug. On the schematic it shows position six to be the key but the key is at position one and the white wire is at six. Help?[quoted image]

Here you go. Your wiring is coming along great!

98176AB1-528D-4B83-BF4B-12C6E40FC380 (resized).jpeg98176AB1-528D-4B83-BF4B-12C6E40FC380 (resized).jpeg
#2284 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Here you go. Your wiring is coming along great!
[quoted image]

Thanks! That's perfect. The wiring is just about all wrapped up. Today I am cleaning the heck out of the underside of the play field. I doubt some of those inserts have ever been cleaned. A little alcohol and a lot of Mean Green go a long ways. The red cups in the eject holes are actually translucent and red again! Next I will be making a count of the dead/crispy/wrong solenoids. If Marco is having a black Friday special I am in.

#2285 3 years ago

Anyone know the part number or similar replacement part for the 1-way ball gate assembly flap, just the flap, the bracket is fine but the flap is rusted and I would like to replace. The manual has the part as B-10732-L (#23 on page 62) which is discontinued from what I can find but it is the whole assembly.

#2286 3 years ago

Does anyone know how Taxi decides the amount for the multiplier on the skill shot? I have seen it increment as high as 5x but don't know how it decides to increase. I have been on ball 3 with the multiplier only at 3x and I have been on ball 1 with 3x as well. Also, anyone know the upper limit for it?

#2287 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Does anyone know how Taxi decides the amount for the multiplier on the skill shot?

It increases 1x for every new plunged ball—excluding the ball launched after a locked ball.

So a game without extra balls it would be Ball 1=1x, Ball 2=2x, Ball 3=3x

If you win, say 2 or more extra balls on ball 1, you could conceivably see a 2x or 3x multiplier even though you’re still on “ball 1.”

#2288 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

It increases 1x for every new plunged ball—excluding the ball launched after a locked ball.
So a game without extra balls it would be Ball 1=1x, Ball 2=2x, Ball 3=3x
If you win, say 2 or more extra balls on ball 1, you could conceivably see a 2x or 3x multiplier even though you’re still on “ball 1.”

There's also a setting to disable it (always 1x) if you prefer. I think the 3x gets a bit unbalanced...

#2289 3 years ago

Finally got a trough light on this thing, in addition to the spotlights. I'm using a 5smd super brite on the left and an opmax on the right. Thinking I like the opmax better so I'll probably swap one in on the left.

The green pops go back to faceted red/green/yellow caps and color matched evo britecaps tomorrow. Pretty excited for that tbh.

Still trying to get the courage to pull the ratty mylar. It's reeeeally gotta go.

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#2290 3 years ago

Continuing saga of repair... So as I am replacing pop bumper coils I decide I should examine the topside as well. No surprise we need some wholesale replacement. The question I have is this. Are the bumper bodies actually held down by wood screws? Seriously! I like the Bally system where there is a threaded plate under the play field that receives machine threaded screws that hold the whole assembly down. Did B/W just throw that away? And if so, what is the proper screw? Because I have 3 different pairs of screws holding down my 3 pop bumpers. Big ol' drywall screws, a short pair of round top phillips head wood screws and a pair of flat topped flat head screws. Yikes!!

IMG_2467 (resized).JPGIMG_2467 (resized).JPG
#2291 3 years ago

Hahaha nice mix. No, that's not factory. As you might have guessed. Lol

By my understanding, Wms pretty much did pops the same way forever. Someone can correct me if I'm mistaken but this is how my high speed went together. They're are three screws through the playfield on one side, in almost a triangular shape, that the switch stack and coil secure to from the bottom. On the top you have the base, the skirt, and the body. The base pops in the center hole and the body screws to it. The ring and rod go through the other two holes and secure to the parts on the bottom. Its pretty stable when it's all put together. The bally system seems kinda goofy to me by comparison!

Screenshot_20201204-170819_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201204-170819_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201204-170842_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20201204-170842_Gallery (resized).jpg

#2292 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Continuing saga of repair... So as I am replacing pop bumper coils I decide I should examine the topside as well. No surprise we need some wholesale replacement. The question I have is this. Are the bumper bodies actually held down by wood screws? Seriously! I like the Bally system where there is a threaded plate under the play field that receives machine threaded screws that hold the whole assembly down. Did B/W just throw that away? And if so, what is the proper screw? Because I have 3 different pairs of screws holding down my 3 pop bumpers. Big ol' drywall screws, a short pair of round top phillips head wood screws and a pair of flat topped flat head screws. Yikes!!
[quoted image]

The lower right screw looks like factory, it should be an oval head screw.

#2293 3 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

The lower right screw looks like factory, it should be an oval head screw.

Good point, that one is right (inside the body, securing to the base.. right?), although it does look reeeeeally worn. The two wood screws are wrong but technically the pins for the coil bracket are wood screws.....ish. I'm not really sure what the correct replacement P/N would be though.

#2294 3 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Continuing saga of repair... So as I am replacing pop bumper coils I decide I should examine the topside as well. No surprise we need some wholesale replacement. The question I have is this. Are the bumper bodies actually held down by wood screws? Seriously! I like the Bally system where there is a threaded plate under the play field that receives machine threaded screws that hold the whole assembly down. Did B/W just throw that away? And if so, what is the proper screw? Because I have 3 different pairs of screws holding down my 3 pop bumpers. Big ol' drywall screws, a short pair of round top phillips head wood screws and a pair of flat topped flat head screws. Yikes!!
[quoted image]

There should be 3 types of screws (from bottom to top):

These hold the coil bracket under the pf (they are countersunk into the top of the pf):
https://www.pinballlife.com/pop-bumper-bracket-mounting-screws-fin-screws.html

These hold the pop bumper body to the base:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-body-screws.html

These hold the cap to the body:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-cap-screws.html

#2295 3 years ago

GAH. FIN screws. That's it!

#2296 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Hahaha nice mix. No, that's not factory. As you might have guessed. Lol
By my understanding, Wms pretty much did pops the same way forever. Someone can correct me if I'm mistaken but this is how my high speed went together. They're are three screws through the playfield on one side, in almost a triangular shape, that the switch stack and coil secure to from the bottom. On the top you have the base, the skirt, and the body. The base pops in the center hole and the body screws to it. The ring and rod go through the other two holes and secure to the parts on the bottom. Its pretty stable when it's all put together. The bally system seems kinda goofy to me by comparison!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't know... I've seen williams pops strip the wood for the screws holding the body, or the fin screws holding the base, multiple times. Much easier to fix on a bally. Never seen it happen on a gottlieb with their bottom metal mounting plate either.

#2297 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I don't know... I've seen williams pops strip the wood for the screws holding the body, or the fin screws holding the base, multiple times. Much easier to fix on a bally. Never seen it happen on a gottlieb with their bottom metal mounting plate either.

Fair point. After working with almost nothing but williams it seems weird but I can certainly see the flaws.

Unrelated side note, I forgot to order the damn evos so I'm slumming it with standard 2SMDs along with the new faceted lenses. Just gonna have to live with it for a bit. I need to do something to cover the bottom of the spinout bulbs..with the LEDs they reflect below and that's..unfortunate.

20201205_005804(0) (resized).jpg20201205_005804(0) (resized).jpg
#2298 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Fair point. After working with almost nothing but williams it seems weird but I can certainly see the flaws.
Unrelated side note, I forgot to order the damn evos so I'm slumming it with standard 2SMDs along with the new faceted lenses. Just gonna have to live with it for a bit. I need to do something to cover the bottom of the spinout bulbs..with the LEDs they reflect below and that's..unfortunate.
[quoted image]

What are “ Evos”?

#2299 3 years ago

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

I love them. I put them on my High Speed, my Getaway, the Black Knight 2000 I had, T2, World Cup Soccer, and I ordered a set for Pinbot and Space Shuttle.

I like that they add some light to what is otherwise usually pretty dark in the pop area. Combined with frosted/clear bodies and clear skirts, they look amazing!

#2300 3 years ago

Ahh, ok . Yeah, I always thought they looked great on most every game including the ones you mentioned

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