My procedure was pretty much the same as HS decals. I did the front first. The door and start button were already cut out, so I figured that was again the best place to start since I would need to line up the sides with it and I wasn’t going to have much flexibility in the placement.

I went ahead and installed the start button so I would have an accurate way to center the decal.

I again used the hinge method to install them:

1. Line up the decal and put a heavy object on one end of it.

2. Lift the opposite end and remove the backing paper to expose the adhesive, about 25% of the entire decal.

3. Cut the backing paper off with scissors and let that end of the decal adhere to the cab. I still used my felt-covered squeegee to smooth it out, but honestly, with these you could just do it with your hand.

4. Remove the heavy weight and place it on the finished end. Lift the unfinished side and pull the rest of the backing paper as you smooth out the Radcal until it’s finished.

That’s really about it for the installation. The sides are obviously much bigger than the front, but the process is the same.

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The only tricky part of Radcals is cutting out holes. Bolt holes are pretty simple. I just shined a flashlight from the inside of the cab and you can easily see the location of the holes through the Radcal. I then marked the spots with a pick, started the holes with a brad tip bit, then used the correct size bit for the hole.

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The tricky part I mentioned is cutting out larger holes, such as buttons. Fortunately, I have some leeway on Taxi as the flipper button holes will be covered by the side rails.

Shining light through as mentioned above, I started out by drilling a hole and then just a “rough cut” using a brand new Xacto knife blade. You just have to be very careful the the knife doesn’t slip.

I then used my Dremel with a round grinder on low speed to finish out the hole. Lastly, I test fit a side rail and a flipper button to ensure fit.

This was also a good time to drill the holes for the side rail bolts.

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I drilled holes for the leg bolt plates and installed the cabinet leg protectors on the outside. The Radcal is already pre-cut for the legs, so that helped.

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I also recommend this YouTube video, it’s the only one I found of Radcal installation. I didn’t follow his procedure exactly, but he gives a lot of good pointers. Try to count how many times he says “sorry”!!! Lol

I am extremely pleased with the Radcals. I wish they made them for HS! Installing them probably took me 1/4 of the time it took to install the decals on HS.

I painted the entire cabinet so I didn’t have to worry about it, but I don’t know that I necessarily had to. You could possibly just paint the edges, but I’m not sure if you would be able to see anything through the decal.

I believe that with a little filling and sanding these things could make even a beat up cab look like a superstar! They are expensive, but to me it was totally worth it.

Quite a contrast- old vs. new!

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I then worked on ground braid. I made some changes, as I wanted to keep all of the ground braid on the right side of the cabinet. Of course I ran out of it and had to order another roll!

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Next was the coin door. I purchased the same style new Suzo-Happ door that I used on HS. This made things fairly simple since I could copy most of the work that I had done on the last one. The old door’s harness would not have worked so I built a new harness for this door.
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I again re-located the volume pot to the door. I also added wiring for flipper button lights
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Wiring has been cleaned up and molexed. Door is done (menu switches mounted later).
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Time to start the pf swap! First was tee nuts and hammering in the pop bumper nails.
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Then ground braid and the GI lamps attached to it.
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Next was installation of the wood rails and metal ball guides. Cleaning and re-graining the ball guides was a lot of messy work just like last time. I also started assembling the pop bumpers.

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Moving on to the speaker panel. I am again using a set of Flipper Fidelity speakers. My old panel had two issues- it was worn/stained and it was built for one larger speaker and one smaller speaker. I’m not sure why Williams used the smaller speaker, I’m guessing it was just a cost cutting thing.
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The metal parts on the top and bottom of the panel were removed and sent for powdercoat. I removed the plastic panel from the front and removed the speaker grilles. They were a little beat up and needed to be reconditioned, but I didn’t realize how much work it would be!
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First, I put one of them on my scanner and made a 1 : 1 copy in order to make a template of the “W” logo. I put this printout on thin cardboard to make it a little more durable. I cut the logo out with an Xacto.
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I then sanded them down to bare metal and primed them.
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I then painted them black and cleared them. Lastly, the template was placed on and the logo was painted. I first tried Krylon's "red pepper" but found it was too dark. Ace Hardware’s “banner red” is a perfect match to the original.

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I re-built the cabinet power box with all new parts. Along the way I did discover that my powdercoated parts did not show continuity with the cabinet ground braid when tested with my multimeter. For those items, I had to scrape away a bit of the powercoat where it touched the ground braid, as you see here.

I also wired up the main power switch. I’m again using the newer style rocker switch as opposed to the toggle switch.

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Going over to the pf to install the various metal parts/posts and the star posts. This is where you find out if you took good pictures or not! Since I don’t directly swap them (I run all of them through the ultrasonic and tumbler) I depend on good pics to get me through re-installing them. I take several angles of them installed and then photograph them laying next to a ruler to later verify size.

Also installing shooter lane mylar and cliffy.
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Most of the topside posts done.
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I thought that this was a good point to do a test fit of the pf in the cab since the pf is still somewhat light. I want to verify the hinge bolts are correct and the hinge plates are installed properly. I didn't have a lockdown bar receiver yet to truly verify everything, but so far it looks good.

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Larger posts are being installed. I polish them by chucking them up in the drill and spinning them in a sock with Mother’s metal polish.
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Rubbers are installed. I again went with Titan. Great product, great service!
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That makes sense, the music and sounds in Sys 11 are pretty basic. Don’t know if you saw this already, but a guy did a partial rewrite for Taxi if Pinsound ever does Sys11B, pretty interesting to hear the updated soundtrack:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-reorchestrated-pinsound#post-6086841

Now I’m starting to install some mechs.

I have to say that I’m very impressed with the Mirco pf. Not to bash CPR, but the dimples on the bottom of the HS CPR pf were basically useless. I spent hours lining up the mechs on HS to get them to function properly. The dimples on the Mirco pf were pretty much all spot on. I was honestly kind of shocked. I would set them up, install one or two screws and check the function. Again and again, the dimples were in the correct spots that allowed perfect function.

I still verified everything before screwing them down, but about 90% were dead on.

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The next big hurdle is switches. All are being replaced with new, so each switch had already been cut from the harness. I went through the pile that were cut off and ordered what I needed. Taxi uses very few leaf switches compared to HS, so mostly everything is micros.
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I first had to place a new diode on each one. I then cut the wires from the old switch, stripped and soldered them to the new switch. The other end of the wires were molexed. This should make any troubleshooting a breeze since it will be easy to isolate any switch you need to.

The larger switches are a little more difficult. Like I learned from HS, the switch needs to be taken apart so the correct actuator arm can be installed and the NC tab can be cut flush like OEM.

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The pop bumper switches are always the biggest pain of the group. They have multiple wires as well as a capacitor and a resistor.

Old/new:
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A batch of new switches are ready for installation. I easily spent 8 hours or more to finish all of them!

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New pop mechs built:

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And installed:
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After long USPS holiday delays, my order from Mantis arrived. I got a new lockdown bar receiver and pf hooks as well as their ramp protector. This protector is for that curve in the departures (left) ramp that is cracked on many Taxi machines. The curve really takes a beating from balls being thrown into the ramp by the Drac catapult.

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Also received packages with a new spinout ramp and a MRS (magnetic reed switch).

After much back and forth I decided to go with the red ramp. I like the idea of the new blue ramp, but the red one is just the classic look I prefer.

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To add a little blue, I’m going to try some blue BriteCaps EVO pop bumper lights instead of the original red lights. I’ll see, if I don’t like it I can always easily swap them out with red.

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The MRS is made by @sonic. It replaces the microswitch in the spinout with a reed switch, detecting spins with a magnet instead of the ball hitting the switch lever. It’s plug and play, just stick it to the spinout bowl and plug into the pf switch harness. This helps the ball make maximum spins as it’s not hitting a physical switch. I don’t know if it makes a huge difference, but it’s something that I wanted to incorporate into the new game.

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New lockdown bar receiver installed and doing another pf test fit.

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Getting the bell assembly ready. In case anyone needs it, here is a blowup of the assembly that I found a little more helpful than the one in the manual. The only difference is that Taxi uses the SM-26-600-DC coil:

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Ready to install:
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Next is side rails and coin door. Since they are identical to HS side rails, I installed them with the same tape and procedure. Flipper buttons installed.

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Also installing the cabinet harness. I ran wiring from the coin slot lamps through the coin door harness molex to provide power to 2 lamp sockets I added for flipper button lighting. For now I have color changing flex head leds in there.

I made a slight modification to the position of the tilt bob wiring from original to go under the assembly for a cleaner look.
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Got her up on legs. After some odds and ends like installing the subwoofer, installing the transformer and connecting the bell assembly, I’ll call the lower cab finished. I put some felt tape along the wood under the lockdown bar to prevent scratches when sliding the glass in/out.

I also tested continuity of all ground braid and metal parts touching to the ground on the main power plug.

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Got a big PPS shipment so I can finish up the pf mechs. Also received a new speaker panel plastic and both ramps ($280 for new ramps ugggh)

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Had to put together another parts order from PBL. I needed one more blue lane divider since I didn’t realize that the first (C) lane has a double stack. I apparently ordered opaque blue from PPS by accident when I should have ordered transparent blue:

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New decals are installed on the rebuilt drop targets mechs. The originals are much thicker and I tried to save them but couldn’t.

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When I rebuilt these, I cleaned their opto switch pcb's and replaced the grommets that were dry rotted:

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All mechs other than the the flipper mechs are installed and now working on switches.

There were a few dimples off here and there, but overall the dimples continued to be pretty much on target.

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Pop bumper lights are connected. When I cut the pops off of the original pf, I left the leads stapled so I would know exactly where to connect them to the ground braid.
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I again added a little solder to the leads to reinforce them. I also again went with the "Cheung method" of attaching the leads under the pf with washers pinning them down instead of staples. They are very secure and I will thank myself later if I have to replace a pop bumper body or skirt.

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Pop switches installed:
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Just for reference, this is the approximate gapping of the switches (I later lined up the spoon correctly with the skirt pin):
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The volume pot on the door is molexed to the cab harness. The flipper button light harness is built and attached.

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Head is attached to cab. Everything looking good.

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Before installing the backbox lightboard/door I wanted to get the speaker panel installed so I can see the fit of the backglass. This is needed to correctly set the depth and height of the lightboard. That being said, time to build out the speaker panel.

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As mentioned earlier, I ordered a new repro speaker panel plastic. I was really on the fence with this. The old plastic was in fairly good shape and I spent a good bit of time cleaning (30+ years of tobacco stains) and then polishing it with novus using a drill polishing pad. It looked nice, but just didn’t have that “shiny new” look that I wanted. Being such a visible place on the machine, I made the decision to go with new. In the end I’m glad that I did, it looks great.

Speaker panel is assembled with speakers and XPin led display.

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Backbox door can now be installed. I paid particular attention to getting the height right to line up the traffic light baffle on the board with the traffic light on the backglass.

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The Flipper Fidelity speakers come with their own volume adjustment pot. I like the ability to really customize the sound output. The downside is that I have to find a place to mount the knob. It’s a set-it-and-forget-it thing so I want it accessible, but out of the way. I found this location behind the door to be a good fit.

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CPR had a Black Friday sale so I had purchased their mirrored backglass. As mentioned earlier, I liked my original backglass, but I noticed that it had what appeared to be moisture behind it. It also was cut out to require the mirror block on the backbox door that I had eliminated.

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I took one of the side trim pieces off of my original backglass and discovered a small piece of black tape under it. Curious as to why it would be there, I took the top trim off. It also had a small piece of tape underneath. I then realized that what I thought was a screened backglass was actually just a translite! Oh well, it was just going to be wall art anyway.

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With the installation of the backglass, I can finally call the cabinet complete and it is a beauty!
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Wanted to wrap up all painting. It was winter, so even in Atlanta it’s hard to find a day warm enough to paint. Last is the apron and shooter lane cover. I primed, sanded, painted and cleared them.

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I then decaled them:

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I got them from PPS. I just checked and they're not on the website anymore. Ministry of Pinball has the same set, but shipping is probably expensive.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/system-11-b-apron-decal-set.html

It looks like someone is also selling them on Ebay, but they may be bootleg:

ebay.com link: itm

Finishing some final items before wiring harnesses. Remaining switches and mechs are installed, and all lamps are being soldered to the ground braid. Also installed the large lamp PCB in the center.

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Another nice feature of my Costco rotisserie is that I can drop it down on one side to simulate the slope of the pf in the cab. I can roll a ball through the return lanes which helps to determine optimal placement of the flipper mechs.

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Now for the wiring harnesses.

First step is to get them laid out and oriented, starting with the controlled lamp and solenoid harnesses. The “memory” of the harnesses again comes in handy as once they are laid out, they tend to show you where they go. Having everything labeled also makes life much easier. I can also always look at the original pf for reference.

Solenoids are connected.

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Then switch harness. Again, pretty fast and simple since everything is molexed.

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Lastly, wire holders are installed and some zip ties added.

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That pretty much concludes the underside. There are still a few things I need to install at the top of the pf, but they are currently covered by the rotisserie bracket and will have to be installed when the pf is removed.

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Every bulb in the game hits my lamp checker before it’s installed. I’ll later know that if I run into a non-working lamp issue, it’s most likely not the bulb.

You don’t have to twist the bulb in, just touch it to the checker and it lights. It can also quickly test fuses. I love this thing!

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Back up top to install ramps and plastics.

While test fitting, the Arrivals ramp fits fine, but there’s an issue with the Departures ramp. It doesn’t sit flush in the cutout and the ramp flap sticks up above the pf.

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I did some research on the issue, and found that it is an issue with the new repro ramps. The issue is caused by the washers under the ramp that hold the flap rivets.

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Some people suggested filing down the front of the ramp, but I didn’t like that idea.

HEP's Taxi thread to the rescue! He had the same problem and instead of filing the ramp, he drilled two holes near the cutout for the washers to sit down in. I liked that idea much better and used a forstner bit to accomplish it.

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With the ramps fitted, plastics and ball gates need to be installed.

The plastic above Pinbot is interesting. I've seen some versions with seven red posts (like my original) and some with only the far left post.

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The CPR repro plastic does not have holes drilled for the posts. I like the posts, so I had to drill the plastic.

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I remove the posts from the original and tape it to the repro, then drill the holes.

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Rebuilt.
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What happened to this guy? Lol

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Building the new spinout w/MRS.

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Why I use leds:

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The complete plastic set:

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Installing more:
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Installing ramps:

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Looking at the switches on the old ramps, it's kind of amazing that they worked at all:

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Wireforms and final plastics installed:
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And the spinout:
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That completes the top side!!

Bought it on ebay:

ebay.com link: itm