I am in! Yo Taxi!

I read in another thread CPR is going to put out a repro mirrored backglass for Taxi soon! Not a translate, and actual back glass. Its going to be really hard not to dip into the pin fund to get one of those!

Yes, sir. In.

"Give to me Club!"

It was Stu from CPR that said so. Should be true and very cool.

Seriously, going to take all of my willpower not to buy one. If my Taxi was in much better shape I probably would, but cabinet is a little beat and PF does have some wear. At least that is what I am telling myself so I keep saving my $$$. Not complaining, love my Taxi and it is in fine condition for its age.

Hmmm nothing of that nature. I finally got the spinout to shoot past all of the awards back to the measily 5k on a full plunge (previously I would get maybe to the fourth award on a full plunge) so I wont even think about touching it until it acts up again.

I had to bend my flap down a bit so it wouldnt stick.

one tweak i noticed on a few taxi's is bending the wireform open more where it feeds the ball to the inlane.. it keeps momentum and can be much faster.

i'll try and get some pics.

Im in for the "The Club" bought Taxi 3 months ago.....love it

Proud member of this club. This is a game that will never leave the collection.

On mine, where the ball exits the departure / drac catapult, at the left inlane, it's beating the pf real bad, any tweeks it lessen the impact?

Count me in. Never played taxi until I got one about 5 months ago. I love it !

Cliffy has protectors.. and you can put some mylar down.

Count me in as well. Actually, I solved two major issues last week and I'm rediscovering my Taxi after almost 2 months without playing it. Issues were :

- Center Pinbot drop target wasn't registering, turned out to be cold solder on the opto
- Right bumper was stuck on when the game was turned on: turned out the Q73 transistor was bad - changed it with a TIP102, it solved the issue

What I now have to do is changing some of the male and female connectors on the Interconnect Board with Molex ones, though I'm not quite sure what to do with J6 connector (the one with "looped" wires on the far right of the board - on mine, wires are soldered on it).

I think it's just to quickly feed it down to that kicker. it doesn't seem like it's really necessary. I tore my spinout all apart and bent it so it was just high enough so the ball being kicked into the cab lanes wasn't going to catch it.

The little spring steel flap on the bottom of the spinout is there to dampen and control the exit drop some.

Just picked a Taxi up tonight, gonna order new ramps and plastics for it.

Got a nice Taxi for my first pin today - it's sweet! Just one issue that's happened a few times - the ball has gotten stuck inside the bottom right jet bumper. Any ideas why that's happening and what I can do to address it? Thanks!

Taxi is a great game! Probably one of the best games of its day..

Damn music always plays in my head when I read these threads

Any thoughts on using yellow EL wire to dress up the wire guides?

I kind of don't understand exactly where you are talking about, can you take a picture?

Grand plans for mine started tonight. Lots of progress and lots of parts ordered.

-Jimimage.jpg

Got mine a few months back. Came with a new plastic set, new arrival ramp and a spare CPR playfield. Never leaving. I find it devilishly difficult, but oh so addictive. Waiting for the repro toppers, the CPR back glass and a few other bits and bobs. Will then redo from the ground up.

taxi bumper.jpg

The ball is somehow getting under the rubber band thing that is around the bottom right jet bumper near the flipper. It is then getting wedged under the blue triangular area. Perhaps the rubber band thing is getting too loose, although it feels snug and bumper works fine almost all the time.

Ahhhh thats actually called the slinghot, the jet bumpers would be the three red things in the top middle of the playfield. You may need a new rubber there, but hard to tell. Can you take more picture down low from playfield level showing where the ball gets stuck? I want to see what kind of posts are there, the position of the ring, and anything else that may be missing.

Your Taxi looks really nice BTW.

After only a few days of use, I'm having trouble getting the ball higher than 50,000 in the spinout shot. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so I can reach the 100,000 and beyond? Thanks in advance!

Probably wrong size rubber or post.

you can try adjusting the shooter rod to hit the side of the ball, this will put some English on it that will pull the ball around the spin out cup.

Lift the playfield and on the inside of the cabinet where the shooter rod is there is a metal plate with three screws, loosen those screws and you can move the whole shooter rod up, down left and right. Try playing with it, it may take quite a few adjustments to get it right. Try and get the rod tip to hit the ball dead center. I had to play with mine for about an hour but now on a full plunger the ball goes through all of the awards and back to 5,000 which I think is the way to make it a true skill shot.

It's also possible that the plunger spring is just plain too old. You might need to replace it with a new one. Also, there are several different strength springs available. A stiffer one may help, but don't over-do it, or you could damage the spinout ramp.

+1 - Sometimes the new rubbers can be a little thicker. Try going down a size to stretch the rubber out more and give you more clearance.

There are some very long threads on Pinside about the subject, I believe. Did you search?

Thanks very much - I missed it the first time I searched but found it now. I'll try some of the suggestions. I adjusted the playfield angle a little bit and that helped a bit and didn't really slow the game down much at all. But I want to get it such that a full plunger pull will make it go past the 100K consistently, so that the skill shot is in fact a skill shot!

I need to learn the part names! My Taxi is pretty nice, but not as nice as the picture which I just took of the ipdb site to save time. I think I've determined that the rubber is old an needs replacing. If that doesn't work I'll dig deeper. Thanks

I can join this club as of yesterday. Yo Taxi!

Hi all,
I've got a couple of issues with my Taxi and I'll bet this group can help.
1. One or two drop targets on the Lola bank are very slow to drop, or stop halfway until I hit them a second time. I'd like to check or replace the springs, but they look hard to get to. Are they? The Taxi manual also says these can be lubricated. What do you think? They do register when hit, whether they drop or not.

2. My pop bumpers aren't very lively, and the lower one in the middle rarely works at all. Any advice on repairing or replacing them?

This is my first machine, so I'm cautious about how to take these things apart.

Btw, my shooter is like many I see on this thread, and doesn't shoot far enough. I'll be getting the red spring, but do any of you use a shooter sleeve? How is that connected or mounted?

Thanks for any help,
Dwayne

Springs for the drops are probably just stretched out and need replaced. Difficult to replace with my fat fingers, a little easier with a spring hook tool. Taking it all apart and cleaning the mechanisms will help, lubricate only as indicated in the manual (and as little as possible)

Pop bumpers are likely to just need taking apart, cleaning, reassembled with new coil sleeves. Usually this is all they need unless something is really worn out or broken. Tutorials on this are out there, a search should get to that information.

Shooter sleeve is very similar to a coil sleeve but a different size. It gets slid into the shooter rod frame/holder from the inside of the cabinet, slide the shooter rod in through it from the outside when reassembling. The new sleeve and spring should get you most of the way there, you may need to make some other adjustments.

While this topic is active, my jackpot display has been out for years. kinda know my way around sys 3-7, but 11, no idea. Where to start? Other display fine, ribbon seems ok.

I'm in

The easiest way to split this problem in half is to swap the display with a known working good display.

If the swapped in display works, your problem is isolated to the display. Most of the time this is cracked solder joints on either the ribbon cable or the PCB to display glass leads.

If the swapped in display doesn't work, first thing to do is check/reflow solder joints on the display board connector, and replace the ribbon cable. If it still doesn't work you'll be headed to further troubleshooting of the driver board.