Taxi Club... Members Only!


By mof

4 years ago


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There are 1367 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 28.
#1 4 years ago

Taxi -- one of the best System 11 games ever made.

Great theme.
Great cabinet color: Yellow!
Great music and sound effects.
Some of the best call-outs in pinball: "Yo Taxi!" "Give to me Ride!" - Gorbachev's call outs !
A complex multi-ball with chained goals.
Challenging skill shot when set up correctly.
Possibly fastest ramp ball returns in pinball. Likely a first.
Very fast unforgiving lower playfield, with reasonable outlanes, and fast flipper return guides.

I wanted to start up a Taxi club so that other Taxi owners can share the usual love for the machine as well as: repairs tips, restoration tips, part requests, topper ideas, and upgrade suggestions...

RESOURCES
Operator's Manual: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2505
Rules: http://pinball.org/rules/taxi.html
PAPA Tutorial: http://papa.org/2011/08/02/hey-taxi/
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reproduction-taxi-topper-list
Plastic Protector Set: http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Taxi_Page.html
Paint code options: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-club-members-only/page/15#post-2725688

UPGRADES/TWEAKS
* Adjust ball return habitrails to speed up ball return to flippers
* Add 3 LED's to under the playfield for the 3 kickouts to add color
* Add 1 LED to under the shooter lane to illuminate the shooter in the dark to make the skill shot properly

ROMS
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-taxi-custom-competition-rom#post-3059658

[x] add to your favorites
-mof

#2 4 years ago

reserved.

#4 4 years ago

I read in another thread CPR is going to put out a repro mirrored backglass for Taxi soon! Not a translate, and actual back glass. Its going to be really hard not to dip into the pin fund to get one of those!

#5 4 years ago

Yes, sir. In.

#6 4 years ago

"Give to me Club!"

Quoted from practicalsteve:

CPR is going to put out a repro mirrored backglass for Taxi soon

It was Stu from CPR that said so. Should be true and very cool.

#7 4 years ago

Anyone working on any tweaks?

Has anyone adjusted the ball drop flap in the spinout? My ball has been sticking in there a little bit, and then dropping a second or two (or three) later than expected... Looking for a possible easy fix before I fully remove the spinout...

-mof

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

It was Stu from CPR that said so. Should be true and very cool.

Seriously, going to take all of my willpower not to buy one. If my Taxi was in much better shape I probably would, but cabinet is a little beat and PF does have some wear. At least that is what I am telling myself so I keep saving my $$$. Not complaining, love my Taxi and it is in fine condition for its age.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Anyone working on any tweaks?

Has anyone adjusted the ball drop flap in the spinout? My ball has been sticking in there a little bit, and then dropping a second or two (or three) later than expected... Looking for a possible easy fix before I fully remove the spinout...

-mof

Hmmm nothing of that nature. I finally got the spinout to shoot past all of the awards back to the measily 5k on a full plunge (previously I would get maybe to the fourth award on a full plunge) so I wont even think about touching it until it acts up again.

#10 4 years ago

I had to bend my flap down a bit so it wouldnt stick.

one tweak i noticed on a few taxi's is bending the wireform open more where it feeds the ball to the inlane.. it keeps momentum and can be much faster.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

I had to bend my flap down a bit so it wouldnt stick.
one tweak i noticed on a few taxi's is bending the wireform open more where it feeds the ball to the inlane.. it keeps momentum and can be much faster.

This I want a lot -- explain!
-mof

#12 4 years ago

i'll try and get some pics.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

i'll try and get some pics.

I did it. holy smokes, game is 10% better from that single tweak. Thank you!
The trick is to "flare" the ends as far as I can tell...

-mof

#14 4 years ago

Im in for the "The Club" bought Taxi 3 months ago.....love it

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

I had to bend my flap down a bit so it wouldnt stick.
one tweak i noticed on a few taxi's is bending the wireform open more where it feeds the ball to the inlane.. it keeps momentum and can be much faster.

Ok I bent it a hair in place with my super long screwdriver. Now it either falls right out, or gets stuck (it finally moves when the solenoid below fires, I think)... So not fixed. I wonder if it's a certain ball doing this. I'll have to experiment tomorrow with the 3 balls and see what's up.

Do we even know what that little tab is under the spinout? Is it a sound switch?
-mof

#16 4 years ago

Proud member of this club. This is a game that will never leave the collection.

#17 4 years ago

On mine, where the ball exits the departure / drac catapult, at the left inlane, it's beating the pf real bad, any tweeks it lessen the impact?

#18 4 years ago

Count me in. Never played taxi until I got one about 5 months ago. I love it !

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Chuck_Sherman:

On mine, where the ball exits the departure / drac catapult, at the left inlane, it's beating the pf real bad, any tweeks it lessen the impact?

Cliffy has protectors.. and you can put some mylar down.

#20 4 years ago

Count me in as well. Actually, I solved two major issues last week and I'm rediscovering my Taxi after almost 2 months without playing it. Issues were :

- Center Pinbot drop target wasn't registering, turned out to be cold solder on the opto
- Right bumper was stuck on when the game was turned on: turned out the Q73 transistor was bad - changed it with a TIP102, it solved the issue

What I now have to do is changing some of the male and female connectors on the Interconnect Board with Molex ones, though I'm not quite sure what to do with J6 connector (the one with "looped" wires on the far right of the board - on mine, wires are soldered on it).

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Do we even know what that little tab is under the spinout? Is it a sound switch?
-mof

I think it's just to quickly feed it down to that kicker. it doesn't seem like it's really necessary. I tore my spinout all apart and bent it so it was just high enough so the ball being kicked into the cab lanes wasn't going to catch it.

#22 4 years ago

The little spring steel flap on the bottom of the spinout is there to dampen and control the exit drop some.

#23 4 years ago

Bent the flap down a little more, life is good again.
-mof

1 week later
#24 4 years ago

Just picked a Taxi up tonight, gonna order new ramps and plastics for it.

#25 4 years ago

Got a nice Taxi for my first pin today - it's sweet! Just one issue that's happened a few times - the ball has gotten stuck inside the bottom right jet bumper. Any ideas why that's happening and what I can do to address it? Thanks!

#26 4 years ago

Taxi is a great game! Probably one of the best games of its day..

#27 4 years ago

Damn music always plays in my head when I read these threads

#28 4 years ago

Any thoughts on using yellow EL wire to dress up the wire guides?

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

the ball has gotten stuck inside the bottom right jet bumper. Any ideas why that's happening and what I can do to address it? Thanks!

I kind of don't understand exactly where you are talking about, can you take a picture?

#30 4 years ago

Grand plans for mine started tonight. Lots of progress and lots of parts ordered.

-Jimimage.jpg

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

Grand plans for mine started tonight. Lots of progress and lots of parts ordered.
-Jim
Guess you are in need of parts, good luck.

#32 4 years ago

Got mine a few months back. Came with a new plastic set, new arrival ramp and a spare CPR playfield. Never leaving. I find it devilishly difficult, but oh so addictive. Waiting for the repro toppers, the CPR back glass and a few other bits and bobs. Will then redo from the ground up.

#33 4 years ago

taxi bumper.jpg

Quoted from practicalsteve:
I kind of don't understand exactly where you are talking about, can you take a picture?

The ball is somehow getting under the rubber band thing that is around the bottom right jet bumper near the flipper. It is then getting wedged under the blue triangular area. Perhaps the rubber band thing is getting too loose, although it feels snug and bumper works fine almost all the time.

#34 4 years ago

Ahhhh thats actually called the slinghot, the jet bumpers would be the three red things in the top middle of the playfield. You may need a new rubber there, but hard to tell. Can you take more picture down low from playfield level showing where the ball gets stuck? I want to see what kind of posts are there, the position of the ring, and anything else that may be missing.

Your Taxi looks really nice BTW.

#35 4 years ago

After only a few days of use, I'm having trouble getting the ball higher than 50,000 in the spinout shot. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so I can reach the 100,000 and beyond? Thanks in advance!

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

The ball is somehow getting under the rubber band thing that is around the bottom right jet bumper near the flipper. It is then getting wedged under the blue triangular area. Perhaps the rubber band thing is getting too loose, although it feels snug and bumper works fine almost all the time.

taxi bumper.jpg 232 KB

Probably wrong size rubber or post.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

After only a few days of use, I'm having trouble getting the ball higher than 50,000 in the spinout shot. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so I can reach the 100,000 and beyond? Thanks in advance!

you can try adjusting the shooter rod to hit the side of the ball, this will put some English on it that will pull the ball around the spin out cup.

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

After only a few days of use, I'm having trouble getting the ball higher than 50,000 in the spinout shot. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so I can reach the 100,000 and beyond? Thanks in advance!

Lift the playfield and on the inside of the cabinet where the shooter rod is there is a metal plate with three screws, loosen those screws and you can move the whole shooter rod up, down left and right. Try playing with it, it may take quite a few adjustments to get it right. Try and get the rod tip to hit the ball dead center. I had to play with mine for about an hour but now on a full plunger the ball goes through all of the awards and back to 5,000 which I think is the way to make it a true skill shot.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

After only a few days of use, I'm having trouble getting the ball higher than 50,000 in the spinout shot. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so I can reach the 100,000 and beyond? Thanks in advance!

It's also possible that the plunger spring is just plain too old. You might need to replace it with a new one. Also, there are several different strength springs available. A stiffer one may help, but don't over-do it, or you could damage the spinout ramp.

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from Choggard:

Probably wrong size rubber or post.

+1 - Sometimes the new rubbers can be a little thicker. Try going down a size to stretch the rubber out more and give you more clearance.

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from muzikman:

After only a few days of use, I'm having trouble getting the ball higher than 50,000 in the spinout shot. Any suggestions on how to adjust it so I can reach the 100,000 and beyond? Thanks in advance!

There are some very long threads on Pinside about the subject, I believe. Did you search?

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

There are some very long threads on Pinside about the subject, I believe. Did you search?

Thanks very much - I missed it the first time I searched but found it now. I'll try some of the suggestions. I adjusted the playfield angle a little bit and that helped a bit and didn't really slow the game down much at all. But I want to get it such that a full plunger pull will make it go past the 100K consistently, so that the skill shot is in fact a skill shot!

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

Ahhhh thats actually called the slinghot, the jet bumpers would be the three red things in the top middle of the playfield. You may need a new rubber there, but hard to tell. Can you take more picture down low from playfield level showing where the ball gets stuck? I want to see what kind of posts are there, the position of the ring, and anything else that may be missing.
Your Taxi looks really nice BTW.

I need to learn the part names! My Taxi is pretty nice, but not as nice as the picture which I just took of the ipdb site to save time. I think I've determined that the rubber is old an needs replacing. If that doesn't work I'll dig deeper. Thanks

2 weeks later
#44 3 years ago

I can join this club as of yesterday. Yo Taxi!

#45 3 years ago

Hi all,
I've got a couple of issues with my Taxi and I'll bet this group can help.
1. One or two drop targets on the Lola bank are very slow to drop, or stop halfway until I hit them a second time. I'd like to check or replace the springs, but they look hard to get to. Are they? The Taxi manual also says these can be lubricated. What do you think? They do register when hit, whether they drop or not.

2. My pop bumpers aren't very lively, and the lower one in the middle rarely works at all. Any advice on repairing or replacing them?

This is my first machine, so I'm cautious about how to take these things apart.

Btw, my shooter is like many I see on this thread, and doesn't shoot far enough. I'll be getting the red spring, but do any of you use a shooter sleeve? How is that connected or mounted?

Thanks for any help,
Dwayne

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Hi all,
I've got a couple of issues with my Taxi and I'll bet this group can help.
1. One or two drop targets on the Lola bank are very slow to drop, or stop halfway until I hit them a second time. I'd like to check or replace the springs, but they look hard to get to. Are they? The Taxi manual also says these can be lubricated. What do you think? They do register when hit, whether they drop or not.
2. My pop bumpers aren't very lively, and the lower one in the middle rarely works at all. Any advice on repairing or replacing them?
This is my first machine, so I'm cautious about how to take these things apart.
Btw, my shooter is like many I see on this thread, and doesn't shoot far enough. I'll be getting the red spring, but do any of you use a shooter sleeve? How is that connected or mounted?
Thanks for any help,
Dwayne

Springs for the drops are probably just stretched out and need replaced. Difficult to replace with my fat fingers, a little easier with a spring hook tool. Taking it all apart and cleaning the mechanisms will help, lubricate only as indicated in the manual (and as little as possible)

Pop bumpers are likely to just need taking apart, cleaning, reassembled with new coil sleeves. Usually this is all they need unless something is really worn out or broken. Tutorials on this are out there, a search should get to that information.

Shooter sleeve is very similar to a coil sleeve but a different size. It gets slid into the shooter rod frame/holder from the inside of the cabinet, slide the shooter rod in through it from the outside when reassembling. The new sleeve and spring should get you most of the way there, you may need to make some other adjustments.

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Hi all,
I've got a couple of issues with my Taxi and I'll bet this group can help.
1. One or two drop targets on the Lola bank are very slow to drop, or stop halfway until I hit them a second time. I'd like to check or replace the springs, but they look hard to get to. Are they? The Taxi manual also says these can be lubricated. What do you think? They do register when hit, whether they drop or not.
2. My pop bumpers aren't very lively, and the lower one in the middle rarely works at all. Any advice on repairing or replacing them?
This is my first machine, so I'm cautious about how to take these things apart.
Btw, my shooter is like many I see on this thread, and doesn't shoot far enough. I'll be getting the red spring, but do any of you use a shooter sleeve? How is that connected or mounted?
Thanks for any help,
Dwayne

I'd power off the machine, take a few pictures of the drop targets, and get the assembly out of there. Give yourself 2-3 hours and take it apart, and clean it up real good, and re-assemble. I've never used lube on a drop assembly. In general, keep all lube away from the game.

As for the pops, see vid1900's thread on pop-assemblies. With power off, learn how to clean the contacts, and set the leaf switches properly.
http://www.performancepinball.com/rebuilding-pop-bumpers.html

As for the shooter, give yourself 30 mins. Remove the entire assembly, clean it, and put it back in there with the stronger spring. If there's an e-clip involved, just move slowly, and watch for any direction it may fly...

I think there are e-clips in the drop assembly as well that are tiny, and so be very mindful about where they might "fly" off to. Plan that move carefully.

tuning up your:
pops, drops, and flippers are the difference between a great and mediocre game, regardless of title.

Only you can make your games great. Only... You...
-mof

#48 3 years ago

While this topic is active, my jackpot display has been out for years. kinda know my way around sys 3-7, but 11, no idea. Where to start? Other display fine, ribbon seems ok.

#49 3 years ago

I'm in

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from Chuck_Sherman:

While this topic is active, my jackpot display has been out for years. kinda know my way around sys 3-7, but 11, no idea. Where to start? Other display fine, ribbon seems ok.

The easiest way to split this problem in half is to swap the display with a known working good display.

If the swapped in display works, your problem is isolated to the display. Most of the time this is cracked solder joints on either the ribbon cable or the PCB to display glass leads.

If the swapped in display doesn't work, first thing to do is check/reflow solder joints on the display board connector, and replace the ribbon cable. If it still doesn't work you'll be headed to further troubleshooting of the driver board.

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