Piershil
I'm done with creating all WPC Tech Chart and I thought to move on to the System 11 machines.
Or rather "move backwards"...
Would any of you System 11 lovers appriciate a Tech Chart for your game?
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
(Topic ID: 43458)
Linked Games
Bad Cats
Williams, 1989-
Banzai Run
Williams, 1988
-
Big Guns
Williams, 1987
-
Black Knight 2000
Williams, 1989
-
Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball
Bally, 1990
-
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
-
Diner
Williams, 1990
-
Dr. Dude
Bally, 1990
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It's a single sheet with all coils, lamps and switches explained.
Also fuse value and locations.
Take a look on my website www.inkochnito.nl.
On the left go all the way down to "Tech Charts".
There you will see all the WPC Tech Charts I've done.
More will be there when I update the website this week.
1 month later
Quoted from mainelycoasters:Pin-Bot has some odd errors I am chasing. Sometimes I get a tilt off the planet advance drop targets, and I get the Drain sound effect from some where in the pop bumpers. Both of these happen every 20 to 30 games at random.
I've had the same sort of problem with my F-14.
It turned out to be the resistor pack in the switch matrix.
It was broken half way though.
Replaced it and all problems were gone.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
3 weeks later
Quoted from wizzardz:Cross posting my wiring WTB here in case someone has some sys 11 wiring they don't need.
I have a project pinbot with some fried wiring from the transformer to the head.
Now this is why I sell my Bridge Boards!
My Bridge Board prevents this kind of problems.
Check out my website and click on the Bridge Board image.
Bridge Boards are available through Big Daddy Enterprises (if you are in the USA).
Or you can e-mail me (if you are in Europe).
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
2 weeks later
I thought I sould mention that I've just released a Tech Chart for Mousin Around, Bad Cats, Whirlwind and some more.
Complete solenoid, switch and lamps information on one big sheet (or PDF).
The file is available from my website http://www.inkochnito.nl.
Look in the "Tech Chart" section.
If I missed something or made an error, please let me know.
More game Tech Charts are comming...
Enjoy your game,
Peter
If you like my work, please send me a donation via PayPal.
3 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from zippydapinhead:Flight insurance is an actual ball save that returns ball to shooter lane after a Yagaov kicker drain or on last ball if score is low enough, depending on game settings.
Think F-14 was first game to have an actual ball save.
To bad this option is turned off when you set the game to "no extra balls".
The game "sees" the flight insurance as an extra ball.
I wish there was a way to keep the flight insurance, but no extra balls.
Peter
6 months later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Restoring my FIRE! I know I will need advice on this disaster in future.
Check out my website for a Fire! Tech Chart.
www.inkochnito.nl and scroll down on the left side to "Tech Charts".
1 year later
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:In the manual and schematics for Fire! and others the power supply F2 fuse is listed as a 4A SB but printed on the fuse in the manual is a 2.5A. The repair guide lists a 2.5A. I can't find discussions on it. Which is correct? I'm guessing the 2.5A but want to clarify. Are there other fuses that are incorrect? I'm checking fuses and want to get the right ones in there. It's currently a 6A.
I would say 4A SB since this for the red solenoid bus line.
Under the playfield are some other fuses and the right side fuse for sol. 9 & 13 is a 3A SB.
I'm not saying I am right, but with the creation of the Tech Charts I've seen nearly all the games with this kind of fuses.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
1 year later
I've just checked in Visual PinMame and the game does have speech.
It does not have a U20 rom file.
Sound uses U4, U19, U21, U22 roms.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from kermit24:Thanks. Looks like the ROM chips on mine are correct, there must be something bad on the sound board causing the speech to not work.
The schematic is too low in resolution to see how things go exactly.
I do see there are muliple channels for different versions of sound.
Two FM channels (FM1 & FM2) for sound effects, background sound and two other channels for speech.
U18 is the speech chip (55516 (schematic) or 55536 (parts list)) which is obsolete.
With a little luck that chip isn't your problem.
What you can do is replace the C34 1uF capacitor.
If that doesn't work, replace the op-amp at U17 (MC1458).
Please let us know the outcome.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from kermit24:Wow thanks Peter! Looks like Marco does have the CVSD in stock. But it’s pricey.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=55536
Try the cap first, U17 second and U18 last.
I'll bet on U17 being bad.
Quoted from kermit24:C34, U17, and U18 are blank on this board. I did completely re-cap the sound board. No change.
I should have looked better at the picture you posted, sorry.
There are two options which might be the problem.
The easy one to check is Q1 transistor.
The other one is a bad DAC at U1 (MC1408).
Quoted from kermit24:Pin 4 of U1 has no output in “Sound Test” mode.
U1 is dead.
MC1408 (digital to audio converter or DAC).
Music is playing, so U4 (sound program) if good.
Music instructions are getting though to the cpu and thus U19 should be good.
The DAC is the only thigh between the amplifier and the sound generator at U2.
1 week later
Quoted from Tomass:Still need pics of a Diner aux driver board if anyone is willing to help out. Just got back to civilization and ready to finally get this thing working. Thanks in advance
Anything specific you need to know?
2 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from desertT1:My Police Force was off today when I went to check the location it's in. Powered up and it said U25 RAM FAILURE, which is pretty lame since I just replaced that less than a year ago. Is there something that could have made it go bad so quickly? I might do NVRAM this time around.
While you are in the backbox, don't forget to add fuses to the bridge rectifiers.
Another option is to put in one of my Bridge Boards.
It will address the fire hazard problem if one of the bridge rectifiers go bad.
Just take a look on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image.
Peter
9 months later
Quoted from desertT1:More fun with Diner. When I turn it on it gives a credit dot. Checking that it says something like “can’t raise lift ramp”. There was also a ball sitting in the right side Today’s Special scoop. When I retrieved the ball the outhole kicker shot it into the trough, so that coil works. When I turned it on and pressed start when I first got to the game it did a ball search with several coils and said pinball missing. So at least some coils are working.
Once all 3 balls were in the trough, I pressed start. Instead of kicking a ball out and starting a game the display did a slow motion powering off thing. GI was still on, but the game seemed to freeze. I just did it again and the display didn’t power down, but the inserts looked like it started a game, but the game made a bong sound and then went into attract mode. I’ve never seen a System 11 do this. I did a cap kit on the power supply a few weeks ago, so the power supply should at least be happy.
Not sure if this matters, but the relay on the aux power board (bottom right) clicks 5 times when it boots. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it happens.
It could be the operators notification....
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Five_.22Knocks.22
Knocker coil not working?
2 months later
Quoted from Scrimmbo:My Fire! pinball has been making this high freq capacitor squeal noise for a while now. The first time I noticed it was before I had done any work in the backbox, and I figured once I replaced all the caps it would go away. It hasn't! It's intermittent and tends to go away once it's warmed up. I changed all the caps on the power supply, save for one, which either wasn't listed in the kit (I had to part it out because the kit was unavailable) or I missed it. It's located in the lower right corner of the p. supply board and is physically quite small, although I don't recall the value. I also replaced the big can cap and rectifiers with the nice fused replacement board.
I can follow the sound with my ear, and it's definitely coming from the power supply. I'm wondering if any of you have had any experience with something like this?
Check the replaced caps for the right orientation.
Maybe one of them is the wroung way around.
C7 and C8 are very important for the 5V supply.
C7 is a 100uF/25V and C8 is a 47uF/50V, but 63V or 100V is better.
Also check C12 which is in the danger zone when leaking.
C12 is a 330uF/10V, but 25V is better and more common.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
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9 months later
I have a High Speed System-11 board on my bench and it boots with an eight on the led display.
I tried to find what this means, but I cannot find anything other than it being an indication about blanking.
But I haven't gone into the chip testing function jet.
The board tested good with a test eprom (going into blinking mode).
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
4 months later
Quoted from mystman12:Is there any way to adjust the trough eject on System 11s? The one on my Big Guns is way too strong, and occasionally launches balls on top of the plunger cover.
Check if you have the correct coil on the eject.
It should be an AE-23-800.
Hmm, this is one of the strongest coils....
You could use a AE-24-900 or go even higher, AE-27-1000.
10 months later
Quoted from rotordave:Clear coated playfield ..
[quoted image]
Meet completely rebuilt cabinet …
[quoted image]
I see more work in my future …
rd
Don't forget to add fuses for the rectifiers or use a Bridge Board.
I hate to see your Taxi go up in smoke.
http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/bridge_board.htm
Peter
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Taxi is 11B. According to your document, 11B would not apply since I see the use of a fuse on each of the bridge rectifiers on the auxiliary board.
I stand corrected!
You are right.
Taxi uses an aux. power board which has one those rectifiers on board with a fuse.
The only single rectifier is for the controlled lamps, which has its own fuse.
3 weeks later
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:thank you, I will look into this when I get home this evening.
Chris
Be aware that the opto isolators are located on the Backbox Interconnect Board.
There are 3 of them.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Well...maybe? So plot twist. Before I replaced the Opticoupler, I pulled the fuses and tested them again (I had done this a few days back) and low and behold, the fuse for the right flipper was bad!
replaced the fuse and what do you know, it works! Well, for about 5 min, then the fuse blows again
Would the opticoupler cause a blown fuse? Or should I be looking elsewhere (which I will do anyway).
Chris
The opto isolator is not likely to be the bad pat in this case.
If it was the ic would burn because of the high current.
Check the EOS spacing and correct opening.
Do not push the flipper up by hand, but press the plunger in the coil.
Things may be worn and pushing the flipper up would give a wroung indication.
Check the flipper coil for the correct resistance. (3-4 ohm and 130-160 ohm)
Keep the EOS in mind.
That will short the hold winding.
Put a piece of paper between the contacts when you measure the resistance.
Another thing to check are the disk capasitors at the flipper button switches.
Sometimes they short, creating a nice black spot on the cap.
Sometimes they go up in smoke.
You might also consider replacing the diodes on the coil.
But a measurment of the coil will show if one is bad.
Peter
2 months later
What the number says would be 90280.
I don't know how it will translate to a date.
My best guess would be year '90 day 280.
I have a label for an Addams with number 92150.
Again I don't know how this would translate to a date other than '92 day 150.
Later labels have a stamp which include the month name, like "sep 30 1999" or "oct 12 1995".
Do you need a reproduction file?
Just send me an email or pm with your email.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from HarrieD:Tech tip:
When servicing a sys-11 cpu board always replace the tantalum capacitor in the blanking circuit (near the 555 timer) for a normal capacitor. I had several of these replaced over the years.
Symptoms: board doesn't start or board boots but coils aren't working. On my earthshaker there were some random characters on the display, the coils didn't work, the playfield lighting was very faint for a few of the inserts or not working at all, but the board booted. Also the blanking led on the board was somewhat dim. Replacing that cap solved the issue, a 30 ct repair which saved me some money on the purchase price.
Do you mean C58? 1uF
Added over 2 years ago:It is confirmed to be C58.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mystman12:Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of the guide inside my Taxi.
[quoted image]
Thanks for this image!
I will change the Tech Chart accordingly.
I will also make an adjusted STD-936 label available on my website.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
1 week later
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Always thought it would be cool if someone went back into the code and integrated these switches as another multiball for the software!
Or some kind of super jackpot if you can get all three balls into the mouse hole....
2 weeks later
Quoted from Elicash:Guys - does anyone have a pdf of the system 11 back box warning text?
Like the one on Taxi?
Yes, I do.
It is on my website in the Williams section.
Look in the red section for "BackBox Tekst printing".
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
Williams_Backbox_Text_printing_(Taxi) (resized).jpg 6 months later
Quoted from bossk4hire:Found it was just some dirty contacts! Love the easy ones!
Can't figure out how to reset the high scores in the settings. Can that be done?
RTFM.... (Read the &*% manual) 
Look at page 21.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1070/Williams_1986_Grand_Lizard_Manual.pdf
1 week later
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:Is there a vector image of the System 11 backbox warning text? I am getting ready to make a printing screen for my backbox, but I couldn't find a nice cleaned up vector image of one for System 11 games. Only found one for the newer WPC games. Otherwise I can make a vector image myself. I like that the font for this warning text is more hand-drawn than the WPC font.
[quoted image]
I have a file on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl in the Williams red section.
I don't know if this is what you are looking for, but this is a quick link.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Williams/Williams_Backbox_Text_printing.zip
Note: the used font in this file is only Helvitica, not Futura like the file said.
I've updated the file accordingly, but it is not jet on my website.
Peter
3 weeks later
Quoted from Phesson:I have a Grand Lizard that has a minor issue I’d like to resolve.
The 5k bonus light is always on except when the playfield goes dark at the end of a game. What would make a controlled lamp stay lit?
A bad diode at the lamp socket can cause this.
Quoted from rotordave:Yep. This one is the one that I bought a couple of years back that had caught on fire. Well, the interconnect board had. Fix your GI connectors people.
A new playfield (the original was beyond restoration) will top it off.
rd[quoted image]
WOW!!! What a mess!
I haven't seen anything THAT bad.
1 month later
Quoted from sullivcd40:Test report in my PZ is saying check both flipper eos switches and both flipper buttons. I replaced both cabinet switches and contact file cleaned both flipper eos switches and all works perfectly. Does anyone know why test report is still telling me to check these areas?
Check the U7 and U8 on the Power Driver board.
They should show switch 11 (right) and 12 (left) in the switch matrix when you put the game in test mode and press the flipper button.
4 months later
Quoted from radial_head:Hey all. Working on finishing up a Taxi and would like to put some of the FM1608-120 chips I have. I am of the understanding that in order for this to work I will have to change around some jumpers. Can anybody point me in the direction of some information on this.
Thanks
Please read this...
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Installing_NVRAM_instead_of_batteries
3 months later
Quoted from sullivcd40:Just today I got rid of very loud hum on my high speed by moving batteries off board into a plastic battery holder that I velcroed above the mpu next to the sound board.
This is not a good idea!
If you put the batteries above the mpu, you still get the batteries to leak on your mpu under the batteries!!!
Put the batteries at the bottom of the backbox or on the side panel of the backbox.
Even better to get a nvram chip, no more batteries needed.
Quoted from sullivcd40:This seems like an incredibly remote risk but you’re right, I should just force myself to install nvram as a matter of course, although it is sort of a pita and expensive.
Repairing a acid damaged cpu board is much worse than a pita and much much more expensive.
I know, I've got multiple boards waiting for repairs and these take hours to fix....
2 months later
Quoted from 2borG:Seems that although Blanking Led is on, I don't have the blanking signal at the displays. I took some photos of the signals present at the 555.
Can someone with knowledge of system 9 to 11 look at them and see if they're are what is to be expected?
With my limited knowledge they don't look very good. C57, R80, R81 and C58 all seems good. Q50 seems also good, so it probably me or the 555.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Check U55.
That chip inverts the blacking signal to the display section.
2 months later
Quoted from alexorear:How can I test the output voltages on a PinBot power supply? Replacement power supplies have test points on the board itself that you can check with a multimeter. I am rebuilding an original power supply and want to test the voltages before I connect it to the other boards in the machine.
Disconnect all connectors but the square ones at J1 and J2.
Put an empty Molex housing over the pins at J5 and J6.
That is to avoid shorting between pins when using a multimeter to check the voltages.
Turn the games on.
The game will remain dark (no lights lit) because all connectors are disconnected.
Connect one lead (black) to the ground of the cabint (assuming the board is in the game).
Put the other lead (red) at each pin in the Molex housing for checking the voltages.
That way you can check all the voltages regulated by the power supply.
Turn the game off and reconnect everything if the voltages are correct.
Peter
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